Micro Processor Chess Set
Intro: Micro Processor Chess Set
Rather than play the computer chess, why not make a chess set out of the computer!
This is version 0.1 (beta). If I can get enough Pentium "586" chips, I'd like to make a regulation size chess set.
Any constructive criticism would be appreciated!
This is version 0.1 (beta). If I can get enough Pentium "586" chips, I'd like to make a regulation size chess set.
Any constructive criticism would be appreciated!
STEP 1: Chess Board
The board is the underside of a mother board, and 32 black microprocessor chips. This creates the colors Green vs Black. Each chip was attached with epoxy.
The principal hardware was left on the bottom side. Legs for elevation are bolts press-fitted into the chassis mount holes.
All subsequent pieces were painted green or black, if necessary, to indicate side.
The principal hardware was left on the bottom side. Legs for elevation are bolts press-fitted into the chassis mount holes.
All subsequent pieces were painted green or black, if necessary, to indicate side.
STEP 2: Pawns
The pawns are made from capacitors found on most CPU power supplies, with a plastic figure base attached with epoxy.
These were the hardest to standardize- 16 of the same parts was hard. I salvaged through more than 12 power supplies to get the eight and eight matching parts.
These were the hardest to standardize- 16 of the same parts was hard. I salvaged through more than 12 power supplies to get the eight and eight matching parts.
STEP 3: Rooks
The rooks are power transformers from CPU power supplies, with heat sinks cut to size for crenelations.
STEP 4: Knights
I found some high-end power supplies that had nice relays encased in plastic. These made good bodies for the knights. The heads were fashioned from inductor coils, cut into a c-shape.
The top corner of the relay was cut off at 45 degrees, providing an attach-point for the inductor using epoxy. After attaching, the connection was improved by wrapping additional copper wire around the joint.
The top corner of the relay was cut off at 45 degrees, providing an attach-point for the inductor using epoxy. After attaching, the connection was improved by wrapping additional copper wire around the joint.
STEP 5: Bishops
The bishops are the armatures from hard disk drives, with green or black wire wrapped around the base. The wire increased the base's cross section, improving epoxy attachment surface area.
STEP 6: Queens
The Queens are (from base to top)-
1. Clock battery from mother boards,
2. RF choke filter ferrite core from data cable,
3. Electric motor core from pen-plotter motors,
and crown made of-
4. Hard disk platter washer,
5. with 6 green/black (IR) LEDs for jewels.
1. Clock battery from mother boards,
2. RF choke filter ferrite core from data cable,
3. Electric motor core from pen-plotter motors,
and crown made of-
4. Hard disk platter washer,
5. with 6 green/black (IR) LEDs for jewels.
STEP 7: Kings
The kings bodies are made from motor cores of two paper shredders.
The crowns are hard drive washers, topped with the armature from old Zip drives- creating the holy seal.
The crowns are hard drive washers, topped with the armature from old Zip drives- creating the holy seal.
50 Comments
manofpluto 8 years ago
AWSOME,COOL,EXTRAYORDINARY
郁城高 9 years ago
GENIUS! YOU PUT CHESS IN A COMPUTER SENCE!
yugioh54444 10 years ago
CrLz 10 years ago
fazgard 14 years ago
GOnna have to empty out some spare parts bins this weekend and make one!
CrLz 14 years ago
A tip for the explorer: Since the electro-mechanical function is not necessary, I dropped each circuit board into the washbasin and cleaned the parts off with water. This removed most of the dirt and residue common inside electric parts, definitely making the job nicer work for my hands.
pfred2 12 years ago
Trick is to just let everything dry out and it is fine.
shdsteel 13 years ago
CrLz 13 years ago
pfred2 12 years ago
It goes without saying you hold the board in big pliers and wear gloves to protect yourself from the high heat. Safety glasses are stylish as well to protect your eyes from molten globs of solder that can go flying. Most stuff ends up in the cardboard box though.
Pro tip: after you've slapped the board a few times into your cardboard box transfer the parts to another box, or tray or something so the little molten solder balls don't end up on your parts so much.
lookwhatjoeysmaking 12 years ago
hopekiller30 13 years ago
CrLz 13 years ago
That said, after slogging through the salvaging for this prototype, I'm buying most parts directly for version 1.0 : it becomes almost prohibitive to find enough of the same parts. (see my comment about the pawns).
No worries though- I'm buying straight from computer salvagers now, so all the parts I'm acquiring are headed for the junk yards already. Everything I buy saves the waste.
hopekiller30 13 years ago
shdsteel 13 years ago
CrLz 13 years ago
The longer core came from a 15-page shredder I bought years back from Staples.
The shorter core came from a 8-page shredder a neighbor threw out. Similar design, it was probably a home-use shredder from Staples or Office Depot.
You may have some luck at thrift stores. When the shredders begin to fail, they first loose cutting power. An empty shredder will falsely appear to work. Some savvy people must realize this, and turn the shredder in for a tax-refund at a thrift store. I bought shredders on [(discount) * (thrift store discount)] by demonstrating this to thrift store-staff.
Good luck finding all the parts if you're making something similar. Best place I've found for 586 chips is from bulk electronics salvagers. Look them up on alibaba , usually selling chips for gold reclamation.
Exploring for parts is 60% of the fun!
shdsteel 13 years ago
CrLz 13 years ago
shdsteel 13 years ago
CrLz 13 years ago