This came about because a family member wanted a neon sign for their wedding. After seeing the prices online for a finished one ($300 to $500) vs. the materials to make one ($60), it was a no-brainier, I had to make one.

Initially, I was going to do soldering, but the strip in the neon flex would melt or burn. I ended up using pre-wired clips that needed no soldering, that made the project much faster to complete and easier to teach others how to make.

Supplies

Neon LED Strip Light 16.4ft/5m 12V DC 600 SMD2835 LEDs Waterproof Flexible (Amazon)

Power Supply/Transformer-LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip (This is also available dimmable) (Amazon)

50-pack 8mm Solderless 2-Wire Connector Clip for 2835 LED Strip Light Power (EBay)

Clear Acrylic Plexiglass Sheet - 1/8" Thick Cast - 12" x 48" (Amazon)

Drill and drill bit

Wire strippers

Electrical Tape

X-acto Knife or utility blade

Cutting mat

Scissors

Super glue gel

Markers

Printer and paper

Olive oil (possibly)

Clear speaker wire (possibly)

Step 1: Design the Text

Using a typing or design program and the font of your choice, create the style you would want for your sign. Save as a jpeg.

The font I used is Better Grade and it is a free font on dafont.com. Better Grade Font | dafont.com

Step 2: Printing the Sign Template to Scale

Using a poster making site like https://rasterbator.net/ will allow you to create a poster that prints in sections on letter size paper using your jpeg image you created.

Step 3: Layout for Drilling and Wiring

Using a marker, you will mark your where your holes will be and how the wires will run. The red X markings are where a hole will be drilled to run wires and the blue marking are the wires that are connecting. All of this will be done on the paper.

The wires will connect like a train, reestablishing the power flow, so that all the led strips will power.

Step 4: Marking and Drilling the Acrylic

Lay the acrylic on this sheet with the protective paper backing removed. I used a black marker to mark the front for drilling. Some acrylic might have a clear plastic protective sheet, which will allow you to do the markings without removing any of the protective layers.

I left the protective paper on the front to protect the acrylic from any marring or possible chipping.

Remember to mark for holes for hanging as well.

I drilled the markings with a 1/4" drill bit. Laying the acrylic flat on a work table that had larger holes and I could position the marking over the hole and drill straight through while having the support of the table.

Step 5: Cutting the LED Lengths

Placing the unconnected LED strip on the acrylic with the text poster paper underneath, measure out the lengths of each part of the letter or shapes. taking into consideration that some parts will curve and bend. Remember that based on your design, you may have minimal cutting and connections.

The strip is cut by looking on the clear side where the lines marked for cutting are. It is easier to cut the silicone at the sides first and then cut the actual led strip. It can be cut with a utility blade or scissor. It may seem like you are removing a lot, but the pre-wired clip will cover the exposed led.

Step 6: Attaching the Pre-wired Clips and Gluing Down the Led Strips

The pre-wired clips are easy to attach. Just open and slide the led strip in. The contact points will sit directly under the prongs and just clip closed. Use a wire stripper to expose the wire you will be connecting later. You can test each piece as you go along, to check for proper connectivity. This is done by using the plug end that comes with the adapter. It will have instructions for wiring it.

At this point, use the print out and the drilled acrylic and a guide for gluing down your pieces. I applied the glue to the bottom side of the neon flex, don't over do it, a little goes a long way. press it down for about 20 seconds and it will be attached to the acrylic. Thread your wires through the drilled holes and continue to the next piece.

If you should get any glue on any other part of the acrylic or you want to clean up the sides of the strip, because you used too much glue. Use a cotton swab with olive oil and dab it on the dried glue. Let it sit for 20 minutes and the remove with a lightly damped cloth or gently with a plastic scraper.

Step 7: Connecting the Wires and Gluing Them Down.

Start by connecting the power source to your endpoint, the wire that will not be connected to any other. Mine was the "s" at the end of Krupinskis. At this point, if you plug it in, only that piece will light up. Unplug it.

Proceed by connecting next wire set to the next corresponding wires. Use electrical tape to secure the exposed wires. Plug it in to check that the next piece is properly illuminating. Unplug and proceed to the next piece. Continue this process until all of your connections are made and the sign is fully illuminated. For large gaps, I use clear wires to make connections, you can see it in the pictures. It makes connections less visible depending on what surface you are placing the sign on.

We made it this far! Bask in the glow of your triumph!!

Now, take the each wire set and follow the curvature and pattern of the neon flex on the opposite side of the acrylic. If the wires are too long, you can trim them and reconnect prior to gluing down. Glue down the wires following this pattern. This will hide the wires behind the neon. Remember a little goes a long way with the glue. I did the wires using a series of small dots, instead of a line of glue. Let dry.