New Fence Blade Alignment

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Intro: New Fence Blade Alignment

My Instructables on how to improve a crappy table saw generated quite a few comments that it did not show the actual build up process especially the fence mechanism, so as promised I am building the fence again because i what to change the fence stop.

I'm using another saw so before building the fence I need to make sure of the blade alignment, and this is what I'm showing in this short demo.

First step is to make sure that the blade travel stops at 90 and 45 degrees. if its out of true you will need to make adjustments in this case its a matter of turning the saw over and making the adjustments.please check your saw manual on blade alignment.

STEP 1: Blade Adjustment Posisions

3 snapshots of the adjustment bolts and locknut This is a cheap entry level contractors saw sold under different brand names

STEP 2: Wedges

You need some small wedges for the next step, Please check my making wedges safely on the bandsaw Instrutable

STEP 3: Setting Up a Steel Rule in the Mitre Channel

Wedge a steel rule in the mitre channel making sure it's at 90 degrees

STEP 4: Measuring Blade Alignment to Mitre Channel

Mark the blade in one position then rotate blade so its on the table make your measurements make sure to write them down, if the blade is toeing in or out make adjustments until you get the same reading front and back.I've used a vernier gauge

STEP 5: Straight Edge

You can also use a straight edge laying along side the blade and measure to the steel rule

STEP 6: Ready to Build the Fence

now I'm sure that everything is correct Iv'e wedged my straight edge in the mitre channel and clamped a square to it and this is what I'm building the fence against and that coming up next.

Please check out my video showing a more comprehensive view

STEP 7: Video


3 Comments

Hi Marcello, just a tip. When you create your instructables it is extremely helpful to make your 'double-click' photo size as large as possible. Especially when showing the inside of machinery where there's a lot of detail. Thank you!

This cheap Clarke table saw.....I had two, and have returned both of them. The first one had a top table machined wrong. It differed 2mm from on corner to another. The second one had a lifting mechanism machined wrong resulting 3mm difference between lowered and fully raised blade. Have spent more time trying to alignt it than use it.
Now I bought Axminster Hobby 200 (yes, bit more expensive) but I built it and it was accurate straight from the box.

The last time I bought a benchtop tablesaw, I went to the box stores and upended all the demonstrators they had and grabbed the trunnion mechanism. By violently twisting, pushing, and pulling, I chose the make and model that gave the least amount of movement and it wasn't the most expensive one either, it being about mid to lowest price. This translates into a smoother cut under load when you find one that is quite solid.