LED Oil Lamp Pedestal... Lamp




Introduction: LED Oil Lamp Pedestal... Lamp

I have always imagined a way of combining new and old ways of illuminating a space that leans more on the rustic industrial side of style that I like. This pedestal fits well with my vision and is versatile with any oil lamp that I choose to pair with it. Thank you for your interest in this instructable.

Step 1: Tools and Materials


  1. Band saw/Jigsaw
  2. Chop saw
  3. Hack saw
  4. Drawing Compass
  5. Belt sander
  6. Palm sander
  7. Dremel w/rotary cutting kit
  8. Drill w/assorted bits and counter sink
  9. Wrenches and/or Socket set
  10. Paint can
  11. Pipe flaring tool
  12. Brushes
  13. Hot glue gun
  14. Clamps
  15. Pipe cutter
  16. Hammer


  1. Wood, solid or laminated
  2. 20' 1/4" copper coil
  3. 3/4" x 1/8" steel flat bar
  4. 4" ABS pipe
  5. 5m LED light strip with power and remote
  6. (8) 5/16-18 x 8" hex bolt (only the last inch is threaded)
  7. (8) 5/16" flat washers
  8. (8) 5/18-18 acorn nuts
  9. Wood Stain
  10. Spray paint

Step 2: Preparing the Coil

The copper coil came already coiled somewhat to the diameter I needed for the projected. To get it all uniform, you need to tightly coil it around a cylinder. I found a paint can was just the right size. Try to keep each layer tight to the previous one as you go. The copper I used is very malleable and didn't take much to bend nor wasn't a worry about crushing the tube as I bent it. If you plan on using something stiffer It might be wise to funnel salt down the tube to help keep its shape as you bend and not kink it.

With the copper coiled, its time to make the supports. Starting with 3/4" x 1/8" steel flat bar, lay out markings for holes evenly spaced. I decided with 1/4" copper tube and to have a 1/4" spacing between each layer therefore the holes need to be spaced 1/2" apart with a total of 11 holes. Allow extra material on each end where they will be inserted into a slot on each wood disc. Each successive supports hole's will need to be shifted up to match the helical pattern of the coil. With 4 supports the next set of holes will be shifted up 1/8" and so on for the remaining supports. I found that the first and last supports are just flipped copies of each other and the same for the 2nd and 3rd support. This made it easy when drilling out the holes. Clamp 2 pieces together and drill through with a 5/16" bit at each mark. Repeat for the other 2. Take your countersink bit and deburr all the holes. At this point spray paint any color you'd like. I went with a hammered gray.

To assemble the coil first flare the end at the bottom. This will help hold the end up against the support and not slip through. If you do not have a flaring tool you could easily crimp the end closed with a pair of pliers. The next step will be to arrange the supports in proper order. Thread the bottom hole of the first support onto the top end of the coil and then the bottom hole of the next support, etc. With the first holes threaded onto the coil, move them all together along the coil. When you reach the top end again thread the second set of holes through and repeat until the coil is threaded through all the holes of the supports. You should have a little extra coil after the last hole. Arrange the supports evenly across the coil and make a mark on the coil a little behind the last support. Slide the last support out of the way and cut the pipe on the mark. Flare the end to keep it form slide out of the last support.

Set this aside for later.

Step 3: Preparing the Top and Bottom Discs

I chose to go with some pre-laminated wood from my local hardware store because I liked the grain and character from it. A solid plank of wood would also work great as long at it could accommodate the diameter of the discs. Looking back a solid plank would be preferable because the seams of the laminated wood are a weak spot. When tightening down the bolts later I kept hearing cracking.

With your drawing compass draw out 2 circles 8.5" in diameter. When cutting these circles out with the band saw or jig saw, stay just off the line. With the belt sander sand you can sand the rest of the way down to the line.

Now draw a 4.5" circle in the center of each disc. This will be on the sides facing each other. With a 3/8" strait routing bit in my Dremel I free hand cut a channel 1/8" deep saying just on the inside the 4.5" circle. You could spend some extra time making a jig that the Dremel or router could ride in to make the channel perfect but I did not have the patience.

Lay out another circle, 6-7/8" diameter, on the same sides as the channels. This will be the center of the slots cut for the coil supports. Spaced 90 degrees from each other center a 3/4" line perpendicular to the circle. Using a 1/8" side cutting bit in the Dremel, cut and slot centered on the 4 lines a 1/4" deep. Again I did this free hand.

Lay out one last circle, 7-5/8" diameter, on the bottom of the lower disc. 8 holes will be located on this circle. Mark out 8 holes evenly space on the large circle, 45 degrees apart. Make sure that the 4 slots will be centered between the 2 holes on each side of the respective slot. Using a 3/4 forstner bit, drill a countersink deep enough for the washer and the head of the bolts to sit in each of the 8 marks layed out. Now clamp the two disc together making sure that the slots for the supports line up and finish drill through everything with a 5/16 drill bit.

Now I forget to do this before staining. On the bottom of the lower disc, drill a 1/2" through the center then take the Dremel with the 1/8" side cutting bit and cut a channel just over 1/8" deep for the power cord to run through. You can add some zigzags in there to help hold the cord in place. If your cord is thicker than 1/8" you just need to use a bigger bit.

To finish off the discs, sand and stain/paint according to the instructions on the product. I used the Minwax Polyshade Bombay Mahogany.

Step 4: Assembling the LED Lighting

Cut a 4" ABS pipe to 5-7/8" This will be what the LEDs are secured to. Drill a 1/2" - 3/4" hole and 1/8" off of both ends of the pipe. The power supply and controller will run through here. Push one end of the pipe into the circle channel of the lower disc. You can use a little hot glue to keep it in place while you work but it is not necessary. The controller that bridges between the LEDs and the power cord has the sensory for the remote control. I had to keep that end poking out from the tube while bending back the cord running to the power cord. I also had to bend the cord back that connects to the LEDs and run it through the hole. Most LED strips have a sticky backing which works ok but I do not rely on it. Starting at the bottom stick the LED strip to the pipe and add a little hot glue to help keep it in place. As you wrap the first layer move the strip slightly up so the strip will lay on top of the beginning of the strip. Continue wrapping the strip around keeping the layers tight. At the top push the remaining strip through the top hole leaving a minimum of an 1/8" of pipe exposed on top. Hot glue and loose spots in place.

Before moving on push the power cord up through the center hole on connect it with the controller. now push the power cord into the channel running under the disc.

Step 5: Final Assembly

I got a little excited seeing this project finally come together and did not get many pictures of putting the final pieces together. Forgive me.

This last step can be a little tricky to get everything lined up. Start with the lower disc. Place the coil over the LED tube, lining up the supports to the slots cut into the disc. Use a hammer to seat them in place. Now the tricky part is to line the supports and the ABS tube into their appropriate places on the top disc. If needed, use clamps to set everything into place.

The finishing touch, push each bolt with a washer through the bottom disc up through the top disc. Top each bolt with an acorn nut. There is no need to torque these down super tight, just enough to hold everything together. Depending on dimensions you may need to cut the bolt down so only a 1/4" of thread sticks out the top.

This pedestal was really fun to make. I love the look it add to the oil lamps I own. I'm planning on making a matching pair. I also plan on making some custom oil lamps using old containers like the little Eagle oil can in the pictures. This one was quite easy to do. All I needed to do was cut down the tip just enough for a wick to be pushed through. Clean out the old oil and add some new lamp oil and its done.

Thank you again for your interest in my instructable and would love your support in the lights contest if you feel its worthy.

Fire Challenge 2017

Runner Up in the
Fire Challenge 2017

Lights Contest 2017

Participated in the
Lights Contest 2017

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    5 years ago

    Love it. it is a little bit advanced level but i must say, you are brilliant.