Original XBox Controller Memory Card Slot USB Conversion
Intro: Original XBox Controller Memory Card Slot USB Conversion
This Instructable is a stand-alone, as well as a companion to another Instructable that i have to do an easy Softmod to your Original XBox without needing a Memory Card or Action Replay. Keep in mind that the Memory Card made by Microsoft is a FAT16 Device, but has 8 Megabyte Limitations. After doing this to my XBox controller, i was able to easily use a Kingston DataTraveller 4 Gigabyte USB stick with ease. This is also handy when you are limited to One Controller/Breakaway combo, like i am, and need to be able to transfer your files and interface at the same time with the XBox.
Credit for the Pinout diagram goes to Mike Chambers (who made a Memory Card to USB Adapter, but i simply cut out the middleman and hardwired the USB port directly into the controller!) his project can be seen at: http://mesh.typepad.com/blog/2005/01/creating_a_usb_.html
Another helpful resource for anyone undertaking any project using USB will appreciate this site:
http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml This site gives some good visual guides on most things USB (even lists iPod and other proprietary connectors).
Credit for the Pinout diagram goes to Mike Chambers (who made a Memory Card to USB Adapter, but i simply cut out the middleman and hardwired the USB port directly into the controller!) his project can be seen at: http://mesh.typepad.com/blog/2005/01/creating_a_usb_.html
Another helpful resource for anyone undertaking any project using USB will appreciate this site:
http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml This site gives some good visual guides on most things USB (even lists iPod and other proprietary connectors).
STEP 1: Shopping List
Small Philips screwdriver
Soldering Iron (I used a cordless one)
Glue Gun
Solder
Flux
Utility Knife
Small Needle Nose Pliers
USB Extension Cable (mine is a dollar store one that cost $1.50)
XBox Controller (S Model is my preference)
Additionally, some experience soldering, as well as stripping wire, and a delicate touch is helpful.
Soldering Iron (I used a cordless one)
Glue Gun
Solder
Flux
Utility Knife
Small Needle Nose Pliers
USB Extension Cable (mine is a dollar store one that cost $1.50)
XBox Controller (S Model is my preference)
Additionally, some experience soldering, as well as stripping wire, and a delicate touch is helpful.
STEP 2: Stripping the USB Socket
Clip off the Female end of the USB extension to about two inches from the end. Then (carefully) start stripping the whole piece, starting with the wire insulation. The easiest way to do this it to make a shallow cut down its length with your utility knife, then a similar circular cut where the wire ends and the socket begins. then simply pull off the casing, then unwrap any shielding foil and/or wires (but leave the following wires: Red, Black, White, and Green).
After this, start slowly trimming off the covering around the socket end. using a quartering technique, crisscross cut the casing and gently (and patiently) pry it off. Do this until you have the socket totally exposed to its metal contacts and wires. If you find 5 wires, you have one too many. One is the ground wire, and can be clipped off (this wire is bare and soldered directly to the metal socket). After this, strip a small end on each of the wires and solder slightly in preparation for a later step.
After this, start slowly trimming off the covering around the socket end. using a quartering technique, crisscross cut the casing and gently (and patiently) pry it off. Do this until you have the socket totally exposed to its metal contacts and wires. If you find 5 wires, you have one too many. One is the ground wire, and can be clipped off (this wire is bare and soldered directly to the metal socket). After this, strip a small end on each of the wires and solder slightly in preparation for a later step.
STEP 3: Opening the XBox Controller
Disassemble the XBox controller. To do this, there will be 7 screw holes on this controller that i used. if you only see 6, there is one hiding under the manufacturing sticker (this is done to indicate that there has been tampering, when this was under warranty). Make sure not to lose the screws (a magnet is handy for holding them). When you have it opened, you will see two vibration motors inside. Using a small flat head screwdriver (or similar prying tool) pry up the tabs holding the motor sockets (white) and pull on the wires holding them together. Do NOT simply pull off the wires as this can damage the board/sockets/wires/motors. After this, pry up with a fingernail or flat head screwdriver on the hooks holding the Memory Card socket housing off (this part will have an embossed Microsoft logo on the front of it). after this is done there will be two shiny silver-colored screws on the top side of the board where the analog sticks are located. It is also handy to take the analog sticks off (the plastic and rubber parts only, not the entire assembly). After these parts are removed you will see the two memory card sockets exposed.
STEP 4: Removing One of the Sockets
On the underside of the board (trigger side), we will be removing this socket totally from the controller's mainboard. Simply pull the pins that are feeding into the socket back and out, making sure they are totally removed from the plastic part. When all five are pulled, they should be only connected to the board where they are soldered into. Now flip the controller and push the two pegs from the socket on the opposite side (analog stick side). The plastic should just come off the underside, and can be discarded. Now take your soldering iron, and desolder and push out the pins to expose the holes that the wires will feed into. With this done, we can now move on.
STEP 5: Wiring and Installation of USB Socket
Take a piece of tape and wrap around the metal USB Socket. I used masking tape, as the purpose of this is to keep hot glue from seeping into the socket. Now glue the rear of the socket into the bottom part of the Memory Card assembly. Make sure to glue up the end of the socket so that the wires are covered up into the insulation of the wires. This will ensure the wires will not do any excess bending and will not snap off. On the inside of the assembly, run a small bead of hot glue on the top and bottom sides of the socket. Wetting your finger tip immediatly after and smoothing the bead will make this smooth and flush (it is a bit hot but you should not burn yourself). Let this all cool for a few minutes to make sure that the Socket is straight.
Now to do the next step will require some soldering, so make sure to be careful to not burn yourself. In the wiring guide enclosed, you will see an explanation behind the five pins. The yellow wire is almost never needed for any reason other than accessories, and is not necessary to this project so that hole will not be used. The wires have to be inserted in from the bottom, which is the same side as the socket that was removed. A good starting point is to have the Green wire soldered to the center hole. Make sure to use some Flux (i spread mine with a paper match end), and extra fine solder. An easy way to know what wire goes where is the following: (with the triggers pointing up) Red White Green Empty Black. The wires should be soldered in through the top of the board, where the other socket remains. Then run some glue along where the wires feed in to keep the wires from snapping off from the board.
Now to do the next step will require some soldering, so make sure to be careful to not burn yourself. In the wiring guide enclosed, you will see an explanation behind the five pins. The yellow wire is almost never needed for any reason other than accessories, and is not necessary to this project so that hole will not be used. The wires have to be inserted in from the bottom, which is the same side as the socket that was removed. A good starting point is to have the Green wire soldered to the center hole. Make sure to use some Flux (i spread mine with a paper match end), and extra fine solder. An easy way to know what wire goes where is the following: (with the triggers pointing up) Red White Green Empty Black. The wires should be soldered in through the top of the board, where the other socket remains. Then run some glue along where the wires feed in to keep the wires from snapping off from the board.
STEP 6: Reassembly
Now its all a matter of reconnecting the vibration motors, then make sure you have all seven screws in and tight. I tested it out with a Kingston Datatraveller 4 Gig and the XBox recognized it immediatly. One note is that this is a USB 1.1 connection, so the data transfer rate will not be the fastest (12 Mbits per second, compared to USB 2.0 which is around 480 Mbits per second). So when you softmod the XBOX with the steps in my other Instructable, you will want to pack a lunch, because it will take a few minutes to transfer the files from the stick to the XBOX.
124 Comments
ArugulaZ 6 years ago
Does this mod have any potential to damage your system? Like, if you have the positions of the wires reversed? I used a third party controller for this, and I'm not sure I have it connected properly.
codebeat 8 years ago
Done
this and windows recognizes the drive but doesn't seem to have enough
power to power-up the drive. Windows pop-up the message "hub exceeds
power-limit". Also the drive runs at USB 1.1 (read this too late in your
article). What can I do about this?
I have made another mod in
the past with a "speedlink stormtrooper" and build in a USB-drive and a
logitech mini-USB 2.0 Hub. The controller is connected to this mini-hub
and also the usb drive. This works perfectly, I think that's a better
idea. You can also use the two other usb connections.
codebeat 8 years ago
Note: When I made the first one I didn't know there was a hub inside the controller ;-)
PeterF3 9 years ago
You guys know you could just buy a Phantasy Star USB adapter instead? Granted these might be hard to come by nowadays.
icePiK 9 years ago
Thanks for the info, didn't know they existed. I've only just managed to work out you can use USB devices this way, and via the XboxController-to-USBFemale method. This post was very helpful.
mikedenney 9 years ago
Hey Peter, I've looked and looked--and would rather have one of these instead of a cable--but I've had no luck finding these? Any advice? I'm in the U.S.--I've even tried searching eBay for entire PSO-for-XBOX original 'kits'...thanks.
Kaljakaaleppi 10 years ago
happyhacker 10 years ago
http://youtu.be/-9UtSi9PRew
happyhacker 10 years ago
Modded USB Joypad with a 16GB internal memory implant with 4793 games on it that Include (1619 Arcade Games)+(722 Atari2600 Games)+(370 Sega Master System Games)+(987 Sega Mega Drive Games)+(775 Super Nintendo Games)+(320 Nintendo64 Games)
..I would have listed all of the games for all the Consoles (1619 Arcade Games)+(722 Atari2600 Games)+(370 Sega Master System Games)+(987 Sega Mega Drive Games)+(775 Super Nintendo Games)+(320 Nintendo64 Games)...But there are far to many to list as it is very time consuming
ENJOY.
http://youtu.be/mVWdXpSBxY4
happyhacker 10 years ago
http://youtu.be/8rMSRI2EIAA
happyhacker 10 years ago
Xbox To USB Controller Mod with 2GB internal removable USB Flash Drive with 153 games Part 1
http://youtu.be/0j8t0kYO6d0
sonicdude10 11 years ago
daiatlus79 11 years ago
sonicdude10 10 years ago
I ended up not putting a USB drive in the memory card when the Xbox had issues with it. (Read it fine at first then quit. ???) So instead I made it into a USB adapter. Plug memory card into controller and USB device into the card. I have instructable written for making one along with demo video of it in action with a 1GB 3.5" HDD connected through a IDE to USB adapter. Xbox picks it up no problem.
sonicdude10 11 years ago
sonicdude10 11 years ago
https://www.instructables.com/id/Xbox-USB-memory-card-adapter/
I thought I was first to do this but looks like I'm the second...
roparom 11 years ago
Treborabc 13 years ago
daiatlus79 11 years ago
daiatlus79 13 years ago