Pipe Wall Light
Intro: Pipe Wall Light
This is actually based off of, and inspired by, Frenzy's Pipe Lamp Instructable here. I saw it and thought that it might be the perfect addition to the makeup mirror in my photo studio in Boston.
Mine cost a bit more than Frenzy's, but I think that is because I went with Black Pipe rather than galvanized. I also chose to use clamp lights, since they have reflectors.
Actually, I chose brooder heat lights because I liked the porcelain fittings and the crossed wire in the front.
The other big difference is that I used the joint from the clamp light to hold it to the pipes.
Warning: This instructable does not go into the actual wiring with pictures. It does involve electricity at wall levels - Which can do more than hurt! If you do not know how to wire a light circuit with a switch, get a professional. Or do good research.
STEP 1: Parts
I went to my local Lowes. You can probably find most of this in any other of the large home improvement stores.
Since I was making two of these to go on either side of the mirror, I doubled it.
1 Brooder Heat Light with handy clamp.
5/16 18 x 2" hex drive screw
2 hex nut with star washers
1/2 inch black pipe parts:
cap
3" nipple
T joint
18" pipe
2 1 1/2" nipples
1 black cross
2 90 degree bends
2 3 1/2" nipples
2 1/2" floor mounts (I had to get galvanized. Couldn't find them in black pipe).
Add to that a three junction boxes, 20 feet of cord, a switch and a plug, miscellaneous wire nuts and a few tools.
Since I was making two of these to go on either side of the mirror, I doubled it.
1 Brooder Heat Light with handy clamp.
5/16 18 x 2" hex drive screw
2 hex nut with star washers
1/2 inch black pipe parts:
cap
3" nipple
T joint
18" pipe
2 1 1/2" nipples
1 black cross
2 90 degree bends
2 3 1/2" nipples
2 1/2" floor mounts (I had to get galvanized. Couldn't find them in black pipe).
Add to that a three junction boxes, 20 feet of cord, a switch and a plug, miscellaneous wire nuts and a few tools.
STEP 2: The Trick Joint
I removed the flexible spring clamp from the light, keeping the clamp that holds it to the light.
We used the head of the hex bolt as the tip that the clamp would hold on to.
To get the bolt in the right place, drill a hole into the cap and use the nuts to hold it in place (one inside and one outside).
We used the head of the hex bolt as the tip that the clamp would hold on to.
To get the bolt in the right place, drill a hole into the cap and use the nuts to hold it in place (one inside and one outside).
STEP 3: Pull the Wire
I found that pulling the wire through the t joint first, before putting on the 18" piece, was a lot easier than trying to thread the whole thing.
Of course, you have to cut the plug off the wire first, before threading it. But, that is okay. You are going to be wiring it into junction boxes anyway.
I also thought about forgoing the t joint and drilling another hole in the pipe. But I was afraid of the rough edges and thought this looked more industrial and cooler.
Of course, you have to cut the plug off the wire first, before threading it. But, that is okay. You are going to be wiring it into junction boxes anyway.
I also thought about forgoing the t joint and drilling another hole in the pipe. But I was afraid of the rough edges and thought this looked more industrial and cooler.
STEP 4: Putting Together the Rest...
After that, it is simply a matter of putting pipe to pipe, and joint to joint. I left the right angle pieces a little loose so that it could pivot when mounted.
STEP 5: Mount and Enjoy
For the wiring, after cutting the plugs off of the lamp cords, it was fairly simple to hook up black to black, white to white, and tie the ground into the boxes.
Wiring this together should be easy. But, if you are unsure about any part, ask a professional!
Which means, not me, btw. I have picked up a few things but am, by no means, an electrician.
I had to do a little research myself to make sure of which wire to put the switch on.
At the end, the whole thing was plugged into a power strip.
As Frenzy said, have a circuit breaker in place the first time you plug it in, just in case!
Wiring this together should be easy. But, if you are unsure about any part, ask a professional!
Which means, not me, btw. I have picked up a few things but am, by no means, an electrician.
I had to do a little research myself to make sure of which wire to put the switch on.
At the end, the whole thing was plugged into a power strip.
As Frenzy said, have a circuit breaker in place the first time you plug it in, just in case!
15 Comments
duncanwilkinson 11 years ago
citizen251 11 years ago
mckeephoto 11 years ago
SIRJAMES09 12 years ago
However, I have no idea what the cost is...
mckeephoto 12 years ago
I assume that the swivel would be more of a speciality item. Plumbing supply or special order?
SIRJAMES09 12 years ago
To install one, you drill a hole in the pipe wherever you want the switch, remove the lock nut & washer that is on the switch, place the switch in that hole(you do not even have to worry about sharp edges because the wire will not come in contact with the hole),wire up the switch, wire up the lamp & you're ready to rock & roll.
I'm not trying to tell you to do this, this is just an option.
mckeephoto 12 years ago
And, be sure to check that the switch would fit in the pipe!
It might also be cool to take a couple of reducer fittings and create a little "junction box" for the switch. Go from a half inch pipe up to a one inch or bigger, put the switch on the one inche nipple and then reduce it back down to the half inch for the rest of the run.
Very steam punk esque!
SIRJAMES09 12 years ago
is it NOT a good idea to use schedule 40 pipe for a lamp?
Schedule 40 pipe is that white thick walled plumbing pipe used for water
lines usually.
I'm just wondering if the lamp would get too hot for that,..
Or if it would not be stable enough(IE: be susceptible to tipping over too easily & causing problems that way)?
mckeephoto 12 years ago
Also, in this particular case, the black pipe was a part of the esthetic I was going for.
However, I could definitely see making an arguement for trying the 40, witha different support structure. and a different esthetic.
JDGNYC 12 years ago
SIRJAMES09 12 years ago
there are ways to smooth out the drilled edges so they won't cut into the wire, but with electrical set ups, it is always better to be safe than sorry.
mckeephoto 12 years ago
The lights get a lot of comments when people come by the studio.
Reffner 13 years ago
mckeephoto 13 years ago
omnibot 13 years ago