The Steeplechase is a Track & Field event contested at the Olympics and World Championships. Its a 3000m (Almost 2mi) track race with 4 large non-moving barriers and 1 Barrier followed by a water pit per lap. Its typical for steeplechasers to hurdle the "flat" barriers and step on the "water" barrier to clear the water pit.

Most of the time steeplechasers train with regular, one-lane width, hurdles that are easily knocked down to avoid tangling with the unmoving, weighing something like 200lbs, barriers which also span 4+ lanes.

It is important however to practice stepping on the barrier to emulate the water pit and occasionally hurdle something more representative of a barrier. Some tracks don't have steeplechase equipment or find it inconvenient to use full length barriers as they take up half the track width.

Shown in this instructional is a one-lane, collapsible, practice barrier easily constructed from materials found at your local hardware store.

Supplies

3 - 10ft x 3 3/8" Red Board

1 - 48" x 1" Aluminum Strip

6 - 5" x 3/8" Bolts

2 - 8" x 3/8" Bolts

1 - 3/4" x 3/8" Bolt

9 - 3/8" Nuts

18- 3/8" Washers

16 - 2" WoodScrews

1 - Welcome Mat

Links to some of the parts:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Construction-Common-Re...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficMaster-Black-24...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-x-48-in-...

Step 1: Schematics

The schematics above show the information for the parts of the barrier. In all you will make:

2 - Base

2 - Uprights

4 - Base Supports

1 - Top Piece

2- Cross Pieces

Step 2: Cut the Beams

Cut the beams to the correct sizes as per the schematic

Step 3: Mortise and Tenons

To keep the structure rigid and allow for easy assembly and portability the uprights and other pieces slot together using some mortise and tenons.

To cut the mortise:

Draw the mortise out completely on the piece you are about to cut
Drill holes centered at the 4 corners of the mortise
Use a jigsaw with long blade to cut along the mortise lines drawn onto the piece in step 1
Knock the cut block out and you have a mortise

To cut the Tenon:

Draw the tenon out completely on the piece you are about to cut
Cut the correct depth into the width of the upright
Cut the correct depth into the length of the upright
The block should pop off as you connect the two cuts
repeats for the other side of the tenon

Check that the mortise and tenon fit smoothly!

Step 4: Assemble the Base

After completing the major cuts and forming the mortise and tenons you are ready for assembly and drilling.

Slot the base and uprights together
At this point there may be a little wiggle between the upright and base pieces that will be controlled by the 45 degree support pieces. Make sure that everything is square before attaching the support pieces
Attach the support pieces on either side of the upright by countersinking 4 woodscrews through the support piece and into the base piece.

At this point the upright should still be able to slide out of the base but be supported forward/backward by the rigidly assembled base.

*Note: I originally designed this to bolt the base supports to the base piece as well as the upright and the CAD reflects that. In the actual assembly I just attached using the 4 countersinks.

Step 5: Bore the Base-to-Upright Hole

With the base and upright slotted together bore a 3/8" hole through all the pieces.

Use a 3/4" bit to countersink 1" deep.

An 8"x3/4" bolt can now be placed into this hole securing the upright to the legs yet still allowing the assembly to break down for transport or storage.

Step 6: Drill Holes for the TopPiece-to-Uprights

Slot the Top Piece onto the uprights. This thing is starting to look real!

Drill holes at the locations shown in the diagram.

Two 5" bolts can now secure the top piece to the legs.

Step 7: Create the Cross Piece

The Cross piece is created from extruded aluminum. It doesn't carry any of the weight when you step on the barrier but just keeps the uprights and top piece square so they can take the loads during use. Having an Aluminum piece here also keeps everything much lighter.

Cut the aluminum to the correct dimensions as shown in the schematic
Bore holes in the center and ends
Drill holes in the uprights
4x5" bolts secure the cross piece to the uprights

Step 8: Cover the Top Piece

A steeple barrier is usually covered with a rubber track-like material. You can use whatever material you like however I found that a welcome mat turned upside-down had a great texture, was affordable and easy to work with.

Cut to the correct size as per the schematic
Use some small screw on the bottom corners and then nails along the bottom length of the top piece to attach the mat
Fold tightly over the top piece. I used a few nails on the top to keep everything extra tight
Attach to the opposite side of the top-piece using screw in the corners and nails along the length of the top-piece