Introduction: Portal Gun
Starting material preparation
The first step is to prepare the assembly for the construction material of the body of the gun. Let's separate the pipes and mark with a pencil the places where we need to cut. See the image below for parts located next to the original Portal Gun, used in the film.
The knee 150 mm is the back of the gun barrel while the 100 mm is the main body of our portal Gun. The eccentric reducer should be connected to the sleeve 100 mm, and this adapter flange to form the tip of the gun. The PET bottle is the "glass" in the body of the present invention.
Marking, measuring and cutting the pipes
Before cutting the pieces, you need to mark them with a pencil.
The first piece we will prepare the knee PVC 150 mm. Great need to cut part of the socket to form a cocoon that is the rear of the gun.
For this, we draw a line on the side, about 1 cm above the top opening of the barrel. This should follow a straight line to the center of the pipe, where the bend starts. From this point, this line should be gently sloping, ending at a point near the center of the nozzle. We repeat this process both sides of the piece.
The next piece to be marked for cutting is the extender of 150 mm. This part is the front base of the gun, which has two curved tips. To facilitate the marking and ensure that the design of the piece is uniform on both sides, we get a sheet of bond paper, fold it in half and cut the paper so that it is looking like a heart.
After that, hold the sheet in protractor and mark the lines following the paper cuts.
To continue the process, we start assembling the nozzle of the gun.
Let's connect to the sleeve 100 mm PVC pipe and in it, the eccentric reducer 100 x 75 mm. That done, we mark a line on the lower edge of the reducer, measuring about 2 cm from the beginning of the narrowest part.
The next step is to position the portion of screw thread of the flange on the rear of the cap 75 mm and mark with a pencil the screw diameter. This part should also be cut.
The sparse grid should be cut so that it can be adapted within the nozzle of the gun.
Now, with a 100 mm sleeve still attached to the barrel, we'll score some points with 1 cm from the top of the highest part of the glove. Thereafter, approximately 18 cm mark on the body of the barrel and scratched. Let us trace over two lines in the pipe body, one on each side, about 14 cm distant from one another.
Importantly, time to cut this pipe, it is necessary that the sleeve 100 mm and eccentric reducer connected to it, because the cut should be done simultaneously in all parts so that everything fits perfectly at the time of assembly.
To complete the session cuts, we will make a hole in the back of the gun, the one that looks like a cocoon. This hole should be the size of a bottle cap PET and locate in the center of the piece.
After cutting all the pieces, our result should look like this:
Mounting the nozzle of the gun
Let's start by assembling the gun nozzle. The first step is to attach the adapter flange parts: a little glue for pipes must be sufficient to maintain the second rubber disc in place.
Then we spent a little more glue on the back of the second disc and pasted the CAP 75mm we cut earlier. To ensure that everything is tight, we will hold the thread with the adapter.
After mounting this part, we put the lid of the grill inside the barrel. Just spend a little glue on the inside of the piece and insert the grate to the bottom that if you left with the same aperture diameter of the pipe should be secured in place with ease.
Important: the variety of types of pipes is very large and some may be slightly different, an amendment barreled 75 mm may be necessary to hold the nozzle of the gun on the reducer 100 x 75 mm.
Mounting the body of the gun
The two main parts that make up the body of the gun barrel is 100 mm and the sleeve pipe to 100 mm. As both are already cut, just spend a little glue on each side and hold everything very well.
After that we will start assembling the two brackets will be positioned on the inside of the gun to hold the lighted tube.
For this, we take the two bags to 100 mm bowl and cut in half, leaving two discs with approximately 3 cm wide each.
Then we mix some epoxy glue to shape the brackets. With the mass already ready, we place the disc on a plastic and fill your interior with the mass. As the hose that we use has the same diameter of a PET bottle cap, We will use the cover to open a hole in the dough.
We repeat this process with the second plastic disc and wait for the dough to dry completely before proceeding with installation.
To hold back the body of the gun, we will use the CAP 100 mm. It will be attached to the "cocoon" with lots of hot glue.
To do this, we place the part inside the cocoon and secure it with tape. With steady play, let's shed a good amount of hot glue around it to secure everything in place.
Preparing for assembly of the gun body
Before starting the final assembly of the body of the gun, you need to paint the parts with black paint. Let coloring PVC pipe, which is the main body of the gun, the nozzle, the two holders for the tube and cap 100 mm which is already attached to the rear of the gun.
Here's how it's gonna be.
See what happens when you do not expect the paint to dry right!
Mounting the body of the gun
With all the pieces prepared, we leave for the final assembly of the Portal Gun.
To start the installation, we will cut the PET bottle, leaving her with the size slightly larger than the window that opened the PVC pipe. Then we will make a cut in the middle so you can adjust the size of the part in the barrel.
We shall introduce this part into the barrel along with the two supports for hose illumination, because the media also serve to secure the clear plastic. Thus, we place the two brackets inside the plastic and then everything inside the barrel of the Portal Gun.
With all the parts positioned in place, we will fix everything with hot glue.
Once the glue is dry, we will move the hose by the media and also secure with a good amount of hot glue.
Now we need to prepare the area that is illuminated at the back of the gun. For this, we take the small plastic pot, cut the bottom and position it at the opening. Another bit of hot glue to secure the piece and ready.
Finally, just snap the back of the gun in the body of the gun. The nozzle may also be fitted afterwards.
Important: If the nozzle of the gun does not fit perfectly into the body of the PVC pipe after the hose is put in place, you can slightly decrease the diameter of the nozzle so that it can be arrested on the spot.
The first step is to prepare the assembly for the construction material of the body of the gun. Let's separate the pipes and mark with a pencil the places where we need to cut. See the image below for parts located next to the original Portal Gun, used in the film.
The knee 150 mm is the back of the gun barrel while the 100 mm is the main body of our portal Gun. The eccentric reducer should be connected to the sleeve 100 mm, and this adapter flange to form the tip of the gun. The PET bottle is the "glass" in the body of the present invention.
Marking, measuring and cutting the pipes
Before cutting the pieces, you need to mark them with a pencil.
The first piece we will prepare the knee PVC 150 mm. Great need to cut part of the socket to form a cocoon that is the rear of the gun.
For this, we draw a line on the side, about 1 cm above the top opening of the barrel. This should follow a straight line to the center of the pipe, where the bend starts. From this point, this line should be gently sloping, ending at a point near the center of the nozzle. We repeat this process both sides of the piece.
The next piece to be marked for cutting is the extender of 150 mm. This part is the front base of the gun, which has two curved tips. To facilitate the marking and ensure that the design of the piece is uniform on both sides, we get a sheet of bond paper, fold it in half and cut the paper so that it is looking like a heart.
After that, hold the sheet in protractor and mark the lines following the paper cuts.
To continue the process, we start assembling the nozzle of the gun.
Let's connect to the sleeve 100 mm PVC pipe and in it, the eccentric reducer 100 x 75 mm. That done, we mark a line on the lower edge of the reducer, measuring about 2 cm from the beginning of the narrowest part.
The next step is to position the portion of screw thread of the flange on the rear of the cap 75 mm and mark with a pencil the screw diameter. This part should also be cut.
The sparse grid should be cut so that it can be adapted within the nozzle of the gun.
Now, with a 100 mm sleeve still attached to the barrel, we'll score some points with 1 cm from the top of the highest part of the glove. Thereafter, approximately 18 cm mark on the body of the barrel and scratched. Let us trace over two lines in the pipe body, one on each side, about 14 cm distant from one another.
Importantly, time to cut this pipe, it is necessary that the sleeve 100 mm and eccentric reducer connected to it, because the cut should be done simultaneously in all parts so that everything fits perfectly at the time of assembly.
To complete the session cuts, we will make a hole in the back of the gun, the one that looks like a cocoon. This hole should be the size of a bottle cap PET and locate in the center of the piece.
After cutting all the pieces, our result should look like this:
Mounting the nozzle of the gun
Let's start by assembling the gun nozzle. The first step is to attach the adapter flange parts: a little glue for pipes must be sufficient to maintain the second rubber disc in place.
Then we spent a little more glue on the back of the second disc and pasted the CAP 75mm we cut earlier. To ensure that everything is tight, we will hold the thread with the adapter.
After mounting this part, we put the lid of the grill inside the barrel. Just spend a little glue on the inside of the piece and insert the grate to the bottom that if you left with the same aperture diameter of the pipe should be secured in place with ease.
Important: the variety of types of pipes is very large and some may be slightly different, an amendment barreled 75 mm may be necessary to hold the nozzle of the gun on the reducer 100 x 75 mm.
Mounting the body of the gun
The two main parts that make up the body of the gun barrel is 100 mm and the sleeve pipe to 100 mm. As both are already cut, just spend a little glue on each side and hold everything very well.
After that we will start assembling the two brackets will be positioned on the inside of the gun to hold the lighted tube.
For this, we take the two bags to 100 mm bowl and cut in half, leaving two discs with approximately 3 cm wide each.
Then we mix some epoxy glue to shape the brackets. With the mass already ready, we place the disc on a plastic and fill your interior with the mass. As the hose that we use has the same diameter of a PET bottle cap, We will use the cover to open a hole in the dough.
We repeat this process with the second plastic disc and wait for the dough to dry completely before proceeding with installation.
To hold back the body of the gun, we will use the CAP 100 mm. It will be attached to the "cocoon" with lots of hot glue.
To do this, we place the part inside the cocoon and secure it with tape. With steady play, let's shed a good amount of hot glue around it to secure everything in place.
Preparing for assembly of the gun body
Before starting the final assembly of the body of the gun, you need to paint the parts with black paint. Let coloring PVC pipe, which is the main body of the gun, the nozzle, the two holders for the tube and cap 100 mm which is already attached to the rear of the gun.
Here's how it's gonna be.
See what happens when you do not expect the paint to dry right!
Mounting the body of the gun
With all the pieces prepared, we leave for the final assembly of the Portal Gun.
To start the installation, we will cut the PET bottle, leaving her with the size slightly larger than the window that opened the PVC pipe. Then we will make a cut in the middle so you can adjust the size of the part in the barrel.
We shall introduce this part into the barrel along with the two supports for hose illumination, because the media also serve to secure the clear plastic. Thus, we place the two brackets inside the plastic and then everything inside the barrel of the Portal Gun.
With all the parts positioned in place, we will fix everything with hot glue.
Once the glue is dry, we will move the hose by the media and also secure with a good amount of hot glue.
Now we need to prepare the area that is illuminated at the back of the gun. For this, we take the small plastic pot, cut the bottom and position it at the opening. Another bit of hot glue to secure the piece and ready.
Finally, just snap the back of the gun in the body of the gun. The nozzle may also be fitted afterwards.
Important: If the nozzle of the gun does not fit perfectly into the body of the PVC pipe after the hose is put in place, you can slightly decrease the diameter of the nozzle so that it can be arrested on the spot.
Step 1: Body
Starting material preparation
The first step is to prepare the assembly for the construction material of the body of the gun. Let's separate the pipes and mark with a pencil the places where we need to cut. See the image below for parts located next to the original Portal Gun, used in the film.
The knee 150 mm is the back of the gun barrel while the 100 mm is the main body of our portal Gun. The eccentric reducer should be connected to the sleeve 100 mm, and this adapter flange to form the tip of the gun. The PET bottle is the "glass" in the body of the present invention.
Marking, measuring and cutting the pipes
Before cutting the pieces, you need to mark them with a pencil.
The first piece we will prepare the knee PVC 150 mm. Great need to cut part of the socket to form a cocoon that is the rear of the gun.
For this, we draw a line on the side, about 1 cm above the top opening of the barrel. This should follow a straight line to the center of the pipe, where the bend starts. From this point, this line should be gently sloping, ending at a point near the center of the nozzle. We repeat this process both sides of the piece.
The next piece to be marked for cutting is the extender of 150 mm. This part is the front base of the gun, which has two curved tips. To facilitate the marking and ensure that the design of the piece is uniform on both sides, we get a sheet of bond paper, fold it in half and cut the paper so that it is looking like a heart.
After that, hold the sheet in protractor and mark the lines following the paper cuts.
To continue the process, we start assembling the nozzle of the gun.
Let's connect to the sleeve 100 mm PVC pipe and in it, the eccentric reducer 100 x 75 mm. That done, we mark a line on the lower edge of the reducer, measuring about 2 cm from the beginning of the narrowest part.
The next step is to position the portion of screw thread of the flange on the rear of the cap 75 mm and mark with a pencil the screw diameter. This part should also be cut.
The sparse grid should be cut so that it can be adapted within the nozzle of the gun.
Now, with a 100 mm sleeve still attached to the barrel, we'll score some points with 1 cm from the top of the highest part of the glove. Thereafter, approximately 18 cm mark on the body of the barrel and scratched. Let us trace over two lines in the pipe body, one on each side, about 14 cm distant from one another.
Importantly, time to cut this pipe, it is necessary that the sleeve 100 mm and eccentric reducer connected to it, because the cut should be done simultaneously in all parts so that everything fits perfectly at the time of assembly.
To complete the session cuts, we will make a hole in the back of the gun, the one that looks like a cocoon. This hole should be the size of a bottle cap PET and locate in the center of the piece.
After cutting all the pieces, our result should look like this:
Mounting the nozzle of the gun
Let's start by assembling the gun nozzle. The first step is to attach the adapter flange parts: a little glue for pipes must be sufficient to maintain the second rubber disc in place.
Then we spent a little more glue on the back of the second disc and pasted the CAP 75mm we cut earlier. To ensure that everything is tight, we will hold the thread with the adapter.
After mounting this part, we put the lid of the grill inside the barrel. Just spend a little glue on the inside of the piece and insert the grate to the bottom that if you left with the same aperture diameter of the pipe should be secured in place with ease.
Important: the variety of types of pipes is very large and some may be slightly different, an amendment barreled 75 mm may be necessary to hold the nozzle of the gun on the reducer 100 x 75 mm.
Mounting the body of the gun
The two main parts that make up the body of the gun barrel is 100 mm and the sleeve pipe to 100 mm. As both are already cut, just spend a little glue on each side and hold everything very well.
After that we will start assembling the two brackets will be positioned on the inside of the gun to hold the lighted tube.
For this, we take the two bags to 100 mm bowl and cut in half, leaving two discs with approximately 3 cm wide each.
Then we mix some epoxy glue to shape the brackets. With the mass already ready, we place the disc on a plastic and fill your interior with the mass. As the hose that we use has the same diameter of a PET bottle cap, We will use the cover to open a hole in the dough.
We repeat this process with the second plastic disc and wait for the dough to dry completely before proceeding with installation.
To hold back the body of the gun, we will use the CAP 100 mm. It will be attached to the "cocoon" with lots of hot glue.
To do this, we place the part inside the cocoon and secure it with tape. With steady play, let's shed a good amount of hot glue around it to secure everything in place.
Preparing for assembly of the gun body
Before starting the final assembly of the body of the gun, you need to paint the parts with black paint. Let coloring PVC pipe, which is the main body of the gun, the nozzle, the two holders for the tube and cap 100 mm which is already attached to the rear of the gun.
Here's how it's gonna be.
See what happens when you do not expect the paint to dry right!
Mounting the body of the gun
With all the pieces prepared, we leave for the final assembly of the Portal Gun.
To start the installation, we will cut the PET bottle, leaving her with the size slightly larger than the window that opened the PVC pipe. Then we will make a cut in the middle so you can adjust the size of the part in the barrel.
We shall introduce this part into the barrel along with the two supports for hose illumination, because the media also serve to secure the clear plastic. Thus, we place the two brackets inside the plastic and then everything inside the barrel of the Portal Gun.
With all the parts positioned in place, we will fix everything with hot glue.
Once the glue is dry, we will move the hose by the media and also secure with a good amount of hot glue.
Now we need to prepare the area that is illuminated at the back of the gun. For this, we take the small plastic pot, cut the bottom and position it at the opening. Another bit of hot glue to secure the piece and ready.
Finally, just snap the back of the gun in the body of the gun. The nozzle may also be fitted afterwards.
Important: If the nozzle of the gun does not fit perfectly into the body of the PVC pipe after the hose is put in place, you can slightly decrease the diameter of the nozzle so that it can be arrested on the spot.
The first step is to prepare the assembly for the construction material of the body of the gun. Let's separate the pipes and mark with a pencil the places where we need to cut. See the image below for parts located next to the original Portal Gun, used in the film.
The knee 150 mm is the back of the gun barrel while the 100 mm is the main body of our portal Gun. The eccentric reducer should be connected to the sleeve 100 mm, and this adapter flange to form the tip of the gun. The PET bottle is the "glass" in the body of the present invention.
Marking, measuring and cutting the pipes
Before cutting the pieces, you need to mark them with a pencil.
The first piece we will prepare the knee PVC 150 mm. Great need to cut part of the socket to form a cocoon that is the rear of the gun.
For this, we draw a line on the side, about 1 cm above the top opening of the barrel. This should follow a straight line to the center of the pipe, where the bend starts. From this point, this line should be gently sloping, ending at a point near the center of the nozzle. We repeat this process both sides of the piece.
The next piece to be marked for cutting is the extender of 150 mm. This part is the front base of the gun, which has two curved tips. To facilitate the marking and ensure that the design of the piece is uniform on both sides, we get a sheet of bond paper, fold it in half and cut the paper so that it is looking like a heart.
After that, hold the sheet in protractor and mark the lines following the paper cuts.
To continue the process, we start assembling the nozzle of the gun.
Let's connect to the sleeve 100 mm PVC pipe and in it, the eccentric reducer 100 x 75 mm. That done, we mark a line on the lower edge of the reducer, measuring about 2 cm from the beginning of the narrowest part.
The next step is to position the portion of screw thread of the flange on the rear of the cap 75 mm and mark with a pencil the screw diameter. This part should also be cut.
The sparse grid should be cut so that it can be adapted within the nozzle of the gun.
Now, with a 100 mm sleeve still attached to the barrel, we'll score some points with 1 cm from the top of the highest part of the glove. Thereafter, approximately 18 cm mark on the body of the barrel and scratched. Let us trace over two lines in the pipe body, one on each side, about 14 cm distant from one another.
Importantly, time to cut this pipe, it is necessary that the sleeve 100 mm and eccentric reducer connected to it, because the cut should be done simultaneously in all parts so that everything fits perfectly at the time of assembly.
To complete the session cuts, we will make a hole in the back of the gun, the one that looks like a cocoon. This hole should be the size of a bottle cap PET and locate in the center of the piece.
After cutting all the pieces, our result should look like this:
Mounting the nozzle of the gun
Let's start by assembling the gun nozzle. The first step is to attach the adapter flange parts: a little glue for pipes must be sufficient to maintain the second rubber disc in place.
Then we spent a little more glue on the back of the second disc and pasted the CAP 75mm we cut earlier. To ensure that everything is tight, we will hold the thread with the adapter.
After mounting this part, we put the lid of the grill inside the barrel. Just spend a little glue on the inside of the piece and insert the grate to the bottom that if you left with the same aperture diameter of the pipe should be secured in place with ease.
Important: the variety of types of pipes is very large and some may be slightly different, an amendment barreled 75 mm may be necessary to hold the nozzle of the gun on the reducer 100 x 75 mm.
Mounting the body of the gun
The two main parts that make up the body of the gun barrel is 100 mm and the sleeve pipe to 100 mm. As both are already cut, just spend a little glue on each side and hold everything very well.
After that we will start assembling the two brackets will be positioned on the inside of the gun to hold the lighted tube.
For this, we take the two bags to 100 mm bowl and cut in half, leaving two discs with approximately 3 cm wide each.
Then we mix some epoxy glue to shape the brackets. With the mass already ready, we place the disc on a plastic and fill your interior with the mass. As the hose that we use has the same diameter of a PET bottle cap, We will use the cover to open a hole in the dough.
We repeat this process with the second plastic disc and wait for the dough to dry completely before proceeding with installation.
To hold back the body of the gun, we will use the CAP 100 mm. It will be attached to the "cocoon" with lots of hot glue.
To do this, we place the part inside the cocoon and secure it with tape. With steady play, let's shed a good amount of hot glue around it to secure everything in place.
Preparing for assembly of the gun body
Before starting the final assembly of the body of the gun, you need to paint the parts with black paint. Let coloring PVC pipe, which is the main body of the gun, the nozzle, the two holders for the tube and cap 100 mm which is already attached to the rear of the gun.
Here's how it's gonna be.
See what happens when you do not expect the paint to dry right!
Mounting the body of the gun
With all the pieces prepared, we leave for the final assembly of the Portal Gun.
To start the installation, we will cut the PET bottle, leaving her with the size slightly larger than the window that opened the PVC pipe. Then we will make a cut in the middle so you can adjust the size of the part in the barrel.
We shall introduce this part into the barrel along with the two supports for hose illumination, because the media also serve to secure the clear plastic. Thus, we place the two brackets inside the plastic and then everything inside the barrel of the Portal Gun.
With all the parts positioned in place, we will fix everything with hot glue.
Once the glue is dry, we will move the hose by the media and also secure with a good amount of hot glue.
Now we need to prepare the area that is illuminated at the back of the gun. For this, we take the small plastic pot, cut the bottom and position it at the opening. Another bit of hot glue to secure the piece and ready.
Finally, just snap the back of the gun in the body of the gun. The nozzle may also be fitted afterwards.
Important: If the nozzle of the gun does not fit perfectly into the body of the PVC pipe after the hose is put in place, you can slightly decrease the diameter of the nozzle so that it can be arrested on the spot.
Step 2: Electronic
Preparation for mounting the electrical part
Before mounting the electrical part of the Portal Gun, we position all components on a breadboard, so that it is easier to see the links. See how everything should be connected.
We'll use 16 LEDs, and 8 are blue color and 8 color orange. The LEDs are positioned in pairs, each pair consists of two LEDs in series and a resistor.
As are two distinct lighting systems, the switch should be three positions, namely one for disconnecting a link to the blue LED and the other LEDs to turn orange.
See the circuit design as must be the connection of the LEDs.
This circuit has been designed with Fritzing software that can be found here.
Preparing to receive the Portal Gun lighting
Let's start assembling installing a light diffuser at the nozzle of the gun. To do this, we cut a piece of paper towel with the diameter of the pipe and positioned within the part.
Starting mounting the LEDs
To illuminate the front of the gun, we'll use two LEDs of each color. To facilitate its fixation within the piece, we make four holes in a PET bottle cap and place two LEDs of each color on site.
Done so, connect the two blue LEDs in series - the first positive in the negative of the second - and the 180 ohm resistor on the stem of the second LED positive.
LEDs oranges must also be connected in this order: the first positive in the second negative. The resistor of 330 ohms will positively on the stem of the LED.
Then we welding wire positive in the stem of each LED and wire on the stem of negative two LEDs. Thus, we conclude the solder having three different wires: positive blue, orange positive and negative.
Upon completion of the welding process, we will firmly secure the set with a good amount of hot glue.
At the end of the first set of lights, we repeat this process to build the lights that will illuminate the back of the gun.
Riding the central lighting gun
The lighting system of the central portal gun must be done in the same way as before, we prepared two sets of four LEDs each, with each pair connected in series. The difference is that this time we will not hold them in a bottle cap.
After soldering the LEDs, we isolate the contacts with a piece of tape and apply a good amount of hot glue to keep everything very tight and isolated.
As before, we will repeat this process to create two equal sets.
Holding the lights on Portal Gun
To secure the first set of lights on the gun, we will prepare a bracket with two popsicle sticks inside the barrel. That done, we glue the lights on the front of the gun.
Now let's prepare the body of the gun to get the set of lights. We must separate a set of three copper wires with the same length barrel. Then the clothed with electrical tape and introduced into the barrel. These wires will be responsible for connecting lighting systems front and rear. The purpose of the tape is here "camouflage" the wires.
To secure the first set of lights the pipe, we get a piece of Styrofoam that has the same circumference transparent hose placed inside the body of the gun. We opened a hole in the middle of the Styrofoam, and hold the LEDs positioned on the hose assembly.
That done, we need to shed a good amount of hot glue on the site to isolate and openness.
Once the glue is dry, we will turn the tube and fill it with hair gel transparent. To facilitate the process, you can use a syringe.
We thank the reader for Rafael Canuto idea lighted tube with gel.
When the tube is already well filled we should place the second set of LEDs. The procedure is the same as before: hold the lights in a piece of Styrofoam, all positioned on the hose and deposited a good amount of hot glue to seal very well together.
With the first three sets of LEDs already positioned in the body of the gun, we will connect the wires from front lighting. All we need to do is amend the first two sets of wires running through the pipe that the hose to the back of the gun.
That done, we place all the wires inside the nozzle of the gun and close the piece. To make sure that everything will be firm, we make two holes on the side and attach a screw on each side.
Riding the backlight gun
The light is on the back of the gun to be positioned in the transparent part to prepare the first part of the assembly. To ensure that the lighting is uniform, we will prepare another diffusion system. Just wrap the PET bottle cap on a piece of paper towel and snaps into place.
A little hot glue to secure the set and ready.
With all the lights held in place, we will prepare the switch that will control the lights. We solder three wires in the play. Thereafter, we will make a hole in the back of the gun, the cap 100 mm which is glued to the "cocoon". The switch must be stuck there.
We should also make another hole in the cap, this time to run wires from the light back into the barrel.
With all the wires in place, we will arrest them. All wires of the LEDs should be connected at the same points. The negative of the battery is attached to the negative of the LEDs, and the positive wire of the central switch. The two remaining wires from the switch must be attached to the wires that carry the orange and blue LEDs. When in doubt, check the circuit again.
That done, simply snap the back.
Attaching the front base of the gun
The base must be attached to the front top nozzle of the gun. We will use two rivets to fix that part. To find out where you should be setting, hold the piece with a piece of masking tape.
Let's make two holes two centimeters apart from each other at the bottom of the gun and the front base. We then apply two rivets in place. You can also use screws without problems.
Preparing the "claws" of the gun
The Portal Gun has three rods that resemble front claws. Let's start making these pieces separating the cylindrical knobs drawer. We need to have three parts L, so we cut the pieces in half, and each of them, make a hole in the lower part (base) and the other at the higher (body).
After that we split 12 popsicle sticks. Three pairs need paste on each other. Then we have some holes in the tips of the chopsticks.
We will also remove the fasteners to remove paper clips, as well as removing the staples of clothing.
After painting all the parts, see how the set will look like.
For completeness, let's take a power cord and cut three pieces of approximately 30 cm each.
To fasten the stems, we need to make three holes in the front of the gun. It is important to ensure that everyone gets an equal distance from each other.
Thus, we hold the L-brackets in place.
Then position the first thread in support and hold the hook removed clip for papers. To fix everything, some black nylon clamps will do the trick. We repeat this process for the three posts.
The wires coming out of the stems should be attached to the body of the gun. To do this, we separate three CAPs PVC 15 mm, drill a hole in the center to pass a screw and also more on the side to hold the light wire.
These parts must be held in the gun body - two on the right side and the left side. Then fill the inside of the parts with hot glue and hold the wires permanently.
For completeness, we will hold the popsicle sticks. The first two will be trapped in the L-bracket, and in them, the pair of toothpicks glued. In the end, the clothing clip.
Whew! After all this work, the Portal Gun was finally ready.
Before mounting the electrical part of the Portal Gun, we position all components on a breadboard, so that it is easier to see the links. See how everything should be connected.
We'll use 16 LEDs, and 8 are blue color and 8 color orange. The LEDs are positioned in pairs, each pair consists of two LEDs in series and a resistor.
As are two distinct lighting systems, the switch should be three positions, namely one for disconnecting a link to the blue LED and the other LEDs to turn orange.
See the circuit design as must be the connection of the LEDs.
This circuit has been designed with Fritzing software that can be found here.
Preparing to receive the Portal Gun lighting
Let's start assembling installing a light diffuser at the nozzle of the gun. To do this, we cut a piece of paper towel with the diameter of the pipe and positioned within the part.
Starting mounting the LEDs
To illuminate the front of the gun, we'll use two LEDs of each color. To facilitate its fixation within the piece, we make four holes in a PET bottle cap and place two LEDs of each color on site.
Done so, connect the two blue LEDs in series - the first positive in the negative of the second - and the 180 ohm resistor on the stem of the second LED positive.
LEDs oranges must also be connected in this order: the first positive in the second negative. The resistor of 330 ohms will positively on the stem of the LED.
Then we welding wire positive in the stem of each LED and wire on the stem of negative two LEDs. Thus, we conclude the solder having three different wires: positive blue, orange positive and negative.
Upon completion of the welding process, we will firmly secure the set with a good amount of hot glue.
At the end of the first set of lights, we repeat this process to build the lights that will illuminate the back of the gun.
Riding the central lighting gun
The lighting system of the central portal gun must be done in the same way as before, we prepared two sets of four LEDs each, with each pair connected in series. The difference is that this time we will not hold them in a bottle cap.
After soldering the LEDs, we isolate the contacts with a piece of tape and apply a good amount of hot glue to keep everything very tight and isolated.
As before, we will repeat this process to create two equal sets.
Holding the lights on Portal Gun
To secure the first set of lights on the gun, we will prepare a bracket with two popsicle sticks inside the barrel. That done, we glue the lights on the front of the gun.
Now let's prepare the body of the gun to get the set of lights. We must separate a set of three copper wires with the same length barrel. Then the clothed with electrical tape and introduced into the barrel. These wires will be responsible for connecting lighting systems front and rear. The purpose of the tape is here "camouflage" the wires.
To secure the first set of lights the pipe, we get a piece of Styrofoam that has the same circumference transparent hose placed inside the body of the gun. We opened a hole in the middle of the Styrofoam, and hold the LEDs positioned on the hose assembly.
That done, we need to shed a good amount of hot glue on the site to isolate and openness.
Once the glue is dry, we will turn the tube and fill it with hair gel transparent. To facilitate the process, you can use a syringe.
We thank the reader for Rafael Canuto idea lighted tube with gel.
When the tube is already well filled we should place the second set of LEDs. The procedure is the same as before: hold the lights in a piece of Styrofoam, all positioned on the hose and deposited a good amount of hot glue to seal very well together.
With the first three sets of LEDs already positioned in the body of the gun, we will connect the wires from front lighting. All we need to do is amend the first two sets of wires running through the pipe that the hose to the back of the gun.
That done, we place all the wires inside the nozzle of the gun and close the piece. To make sure that everything will be firm, we make two holes on the side and attach a screw on each side.
Riding the backlight gun
The light is on the back of the gun to be positioned in the transparent part to prepare the first part of the assembly. To ensure that the lighting is uniform, we will prepare another diffusion system. Just wrap the PET bottle cap on a piece of paper towel and snaps into place.
A little hot glue to secure the set and ready.
With all the lights held in place, we will prepare the switch that will control the lights. We solder three wires in the play. Thereafter, we will make a hole in the back of the gun, the cap 100 mm which is glued to the "cocoon". The switch must be stuck there.
We should also make another hole in the cap, this time to run wires from the light back into the barrel.
With all the wires in place, we will arrest them. All wires of the LEDs should be connected at the same points. The negative of the battery is attached to the negative of the LEDs, and the positive wire of the central switch. The two remaining wires from the switch must be attached to the wires that carry the orange and blue LEDs. When in doubt, check the circuit again.
That done, simply snap the back.
Attaching the front base of the gun
The base must be attached to the front top nozzle of the gun. We will use two rivets to fix that part. To find out where you should be setting, hold the piece with a piece of masking tape.
Let's make two holes two centimeters apart from each other at the bottom of the gun and the front base. We then apply two rivets in place. You can also use screws without problems.
Preparing the "claws" of the gun
The Portal Gun has three rods that resemble front claws. Let's start making these pieces separating the cylindrical knobs drawer. We need to have three parts L, so we cut the pieces in half, and each of them, make a hole in the lower part (base) and the other at the higher (body).
After that we split 12 popsicle sticks. Three pairs need paste on each other. Then we have some holes in the tips of the chopsticks.
We will also remove the fasteners to remove paper clips, as well as removing the staples of clothing.
After painting all the parts, see how the set will look like.
For completeness, let's take a power cord and cut three pieces of approximately 30 cm each.
To fasten the stems, we need to make three holes in the front of the gun. It is important to ensure that everyone gets an equal distance from each other.
Thus, we hold the L-brackets in place.
Then position the first thread in support and hold the hook removed clip for papers. To fix everything, some black nylon clamps will do the trick. We repeat this process for the three posts.
The wires coming out of the stems should be attached to the body of the gun. To do this, we separate three CAPs PVC 15 mm, drill a hole in the center to pass a screw and also more on the side to hold the light wire.
These parts must be held in the gun body - two on the right side and the left side. Then fill the inside of the parts with hot glue and hold the wires permanently.
For completeness, we will hold the popsicle sticks. The first two will be trapped in the L-bracket, and in them, the pair of toothpicks glued. In the end, the clothing clip.
Whew! After all this work, the Portal Gun was finally ready.
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