Relieve En Madera, Facil (wood Relief, Made Easy)
Intro: Relieve En Madera, Facil (wood Relief, Made Easy)
Esta no es una idea mía, la aprendí hace unos cuantos años, durante el Renacimiento. Como no es muy conocida, y al mismo tiempo es muy interesante, la publico acá donde millones de personas podrán aprenderla y utilizarla. Y quien sabe, hacerse millonarios con ella.
El instructable consta de muchos pasos pero no se asuste, todo el proceso me llevó unos 20 minutos. Lo quise hacer bien detallado para que no queden dudas.
This is not my idea, I learned it years ago, during the Renaissance. As it is not well known, and at the same time is very interesting, I publish it here, where millions of people will learn and use. And who knows, become millionaires with it.
The instructable has many steps, but do not panic, the whole process took me about 20 minutes. I wanted to do very detailed so that no doubts remain.
El instructable consta de muchos pasos pero no se asuste, todo el proceso me llevó unos 20 minutos. Lo quise hacer bien detallado para que no queden dudas.
This is not my idea, I learned it years ago, during the Renaissance. As it is not well known, and at the same time is very interesting, I publish it here, where millions of people will learn and use. And who knows, become millionaires with it.
The instructable has many steps, but do not panic, the whole process took me about 20 minutes. I wanted to do very detailed so that no doubts remain.
STEP 1: No Cualquier Madera (not Just Any Wood)
De la misma manera que usted normalmente no se pondría a tallar a mano una madera dura, para esta demostración elegiremos una madera que sea blanda, con pocas vetas y sin nudos. Podría ser álamo, cedro, limonero u otras, pero yo tengo pino blanco y solo debo elegir la parte adecuada.
In the same way that you normally would not get a hard wood to hand shape, for this instructable I will choose a wood that is soft, with little grain and no knots. Could be poplar, cedar, lemon or other, but I have only white pine and I choose the right part.
In the same way that you normally would not get a hard wood to hand shape, for this instructable I will choose a wood that is soft, with little grain and no knots. Could be poplar, cedar, lemon or other, but I have only white pine and I choose the right part.
STEP 2: Ahora, Alambre (now, Wire)
El uso de alambre facilita la tarea, pero si usted es habilidoso puede prescindir de él y utiilizar un punzón. Yo le muestro cómo se hace con el alambre, usted luego decide el método. Usaré alambre galvanizado porque es lo que tengo más a mano, pero una percha de alambre sirve, también alambre grueso de cobre o similar.
The use of wire makes it easy, but if you are skilled you can do without it and use a punch. I show how it is done with wire, you then decide the method. I will use galvanized wire because that's what I have at hand, but a wire hanger is also true, or thick copper wire or similar.
The use of wire makes it easy, but if you are skilled you can do without it and use a punch. I show how it is done with wire, you then decide the method. I will use galvanized wire because that's what I have at hand, but a wire hanger is also true, or thick copper wire or similar.
STEP 3: Haciendo El Dibujo (doing the Drawing)
Yo voy a hacer mis iniciales, OJS, pero usted no está restringido a ellas. Haga las suyas, que yo lo entenderé. Técnicamente con este sistema se puede escribir cualquier cosa, incluso se podría publicar una novedosa versión del Nuevo Testamento. Y no solamente letras, se puede hacer algo realmente artístico. No cuenten conmigo para ninguna de estas dos últimas cosas.
Las letras, o lo que sea, deben quedar bien planas.
I will do my initials, OJS, but you are not restricted to them. Make your own, I'll understand. Technically, this system can write anything, you could even publish a new version of the New Testament.And not only letters, you can do something really artistic. Do not depend on me for any of this two last things.
The letters, or whatever, should be rather flat.
Las letras, o lo que sea, deben quedar bien planas.
I will do my initials, OJS, but you are not restricted to them. Make your own, I'll understand. Technically, this system can write anything, you could even publish a new version of the New Testament.And not only letters, you can do something really artistic. Do not depend on me for any of this two last things.
The letters, or whatever, should be rather flat.
STEP 4: Use Cinta Adhesiva (use Masking Tape)
Las letras deben quedar aseguradas a la madera, pero como usted verá luego, no se puede usar adhesivo. La cinta de enmascaramiento es ideal, pero cualquier cinta adhesiva sirve. Antes de pegar las letras, no olvide lijar la madera si es necesario.
Letters must be secured to the wood, but as you will see later, can not use adhesive. Masking tape is ideal, but any tape used.Before tapeing the letters, be sure to sand the wood if necessary.
Letters must be secured to the wood, but as you will see later, can not use adhesive. Masking tape is ideal, but any tape used.Before tapeing the letters, be sure to sand the wood if necessary.
STEP 5: Ahora, a Martillar (now, to Hammer)
Ponga la madera con las letras sobre una superficie resistente, porque lo que viene no es para hacerlo sobre la mesa del comedor. Yo utilicé mi viejo yunque y un engranaje plano de motocicleta.
Put the timber with letters on a sturdy surface, because what comes is not to do over the dining room table. I used my old anvil and a strong flat motorcycle gear.
Put the timber with letters on a sturdy surface, because what comes is not to do over the dining room table. I used my old anvil and a strong flat motorcycle gear.
STEP 6: Extraer Las Letras (extract the Letters)
Con cuidado de no lastimar la madera, extraiga las letras de los surcos que se formaron en la madera. Yo tuve que usar un cutter para sacar la O, las otras salieron solas.
Careful not to hurt the wood, extract the letters from the grooves formed in the wood. I had to use a knife to remove the O, the other left alone.
Careful not to hurt the wood, extract the letters from the grooves formed in the wood. I had to use a knife to remove the O, the other left alone.
STEP 7: Ahora, a Lijar En Serio (now, Seriously Sandpaper)
Yo tengo la suerte de poseer una lijadora de banda, pero si usted no la tiene, no es excusa. Hay que darle duro y parejo a la lija hasta eliminar los surcos de la madera. Pero ojo, no eliminar el fondo de los surcos. Las letras deben poderse leer todavía. Se puede usar también una garlopa, un formón, una escofina, cualquier cosa que sirva para desbaste.
Importante: cualquier mejora que haya que hacer a la superficie o bordes, este es el momento. Luego será muy difícil.
I have the luck to have a belt sander, but if you do not, no excuse. You have to give long and hard to sand to remove the grooves of the wood. But beware, do not remove the bottom of the grooves. Letters must be legible yet. You can also use a jack plane, a chisel, a rasp, anything that serves for roughing.
Important: any improvement to be made to the surface or edges, this is the time. Then, it will be very difficult.
Importante: cualquier mejora que haya que hacer a la superficie o bordes, este es el momento. Luego será muy difícil.
I have the luck to have a belt sander, but if you do not, no excuse. You have to give long and hard to sand to remove the grooves of the wood. But beware, do not remove the bottom of the grooves. Letters must be legible yet. You can also use a jack plane, a chisel, a rasp, anything that serves for roughing.
Important: any improvement to be made to the surface or edges, this is the time. Then, it will be very difficult.
STEP 8: Microondeando (microwaving)
Tome un recipiente playo, ponga unos milímetros de agua, ponga la madera boca abajo sobre el agua y meta todo unos segundos en el horno de microondas. También sirve cualquier método de calentar agua: una hornalla, leña, etc. Lo importante es que el agua se aproxime a los 100º C.
Mientras tanto, no estaría mal tomarse unos mates, un té o algo parecido.
Take a shallow bowl, put a few millimeters of water, place the timber upside down on water and put it a few seconds in microwave. It also serves any method of heating water: a stove, firewood, ecc. The important thing is that the water is close to 100º C.
Meanwhile, it would be good to take a few mates, a tea or something.
Mientras tanto, no estaría mal tomarse unos mates, un té o algo parecido.
Take a shallow bowl, put a few millimeters of water, place the timber upside down on water and put it a few seconds in microwave. It also serves any method of heating water: a stove, firewood, ecc. The important thing is that the water is close to 100º C.
Meanwhile, it would be good to take a few mates, a tea or something.
STEP 9: Revelado (revealing)
Con el microondas apagado, dejar unos minutos todo en reposo para que la madera absorba el agua. Luego sacar del microondas el recipiente (cuidado con quemarse), contener el aliento, sacar la madera, darla vuelta y.... ¡BINGO!
Para secar la madera se puede usar también el microondas, con prudencia, o simplemente dejarla al sol o cerca de una estufa. Una vez seca, se puede barnizar o encerar.
Y basta por hoy. Por ser el primer intento, no está nada mal. Con un poquito de práctica y cuidado adicional, se pueden obtener relieves muy bonitos. Tal vez si antes de martillar las letras se hubiera mojado la madera, se habrían evitado algunas pequeñas grietas que aparecieron.
With the microwave off, leave everything to rest a few minutes to the wood absorb the water. Then remove the bowl from the microwave (be careful with burning), hold your breath, remove the wood, turn it around and ... BINGO!
To dry the wood can also use the microwave, with prudence, or simply let under the sun or near a heater. When it be dry, you can varnish or wax.
Enough for today. As the first attempt, not bad. With a little practice and extra care, you can get very nice relief. Maybe if before hammering the letters the wood had been wet, they would have avoided some small cracks that appeared.
Para secar la madera se puede usar también el microondas, con prudencia, o simplemente dejarla al sol o cerca de una estufa. Una vez seca, se puede barnizar o encerar.
Y basta por hoy. Por ser el primer intento, no está nada mal. Con un poquito de práctica y cuidado adicional, se pueden obtener relieves muy bonitos. Tal vez si antes de martillar las letras se hubiera mojado la madera, se habrían evitado algunas pequeñas grietas que aparecieron.
With the microwave off, leave everything to rest a few minutes to the wood absorb the water. Then remove the bowl from the microwave (be careful with burning), hold your breath, remove the wood, turn it around and ... BINGO!
To dry the wood can also use the microwave, with prudence, or simply let under the sun or near a heater. When it be dry, you can varnish or wax.
Enough for today. As the first attempt, not bad. With a little practice and extra care, you can get very nice relief. Maybe if before hammering the letters the wood had been wet, they would have avoided some small cracks that appeared.
35 Comments
smiliviola 9 years ago
rimar2000 9 years ago
StasinG 10 years ago
rimar2000 10 years ago
canucksgirl 12 years ago
rimar2000 12 years ago
marek1 13 years ago
zao_22 13 years ago
betoblas 13 years ago
nahada 13 years ago
piaferre 13 years ago
rimar2000 13 years ago
sashadistan 13 years ago
rimar2000 13 years ago
I said that I did not invent it, just remembered reading it a few years ago and wanted to test. It's a really simple and effective technique. I think wood should be used more homogeneous, because pine is interspersed with soft and hard parts.
kenchato 13 years ago
It's Great! xD
mee-mee 13 years ago
8bit 13 years ago
rimar2000 13 years ago
chakra 13 years ago
very impressive.. you have my vote!!
rimar2000 13 years ago