Remove and Replace the Bezel on Your Rolex Submariner.

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Intro: Remove and Replace the Bezel on Your Rolex Submariner.

This instructable will guide you through removing and replacing the bezel on your Rolex Submariner. The same general process can be used with a GMT Master II. I used my stainless steel anniversary sub, reference 16610. The same process can be used with the two tone (16613) and solid gold (16618) subs. Just be extra careful on those 2, as the 18k gold is a lot softer than the SS.

**** I'll say it now. Attempt the following steps at your own risk. If you trash your Rolex, I'm not buying you another one! *****

STEP 1: Prepping for the POP

For this instructable you'll need:

- Tape (electrical tape works great)
- A thin bladed knife. Not too sharp. Butter knife works great.
- Plastic bag (optional)
- A Rolex Submariner watch.
- 4X Jewelers Loupe (optional)
- Patience. This is my first Instructable, so bear with me.
- A reason to do this. The bezel on my watch was binding up when trying to turn it. I removed mine to clean it. Some people like to change bezels from time to time. You'll note that mine has a green bezel. Most Subs have a black one. If I can source a black one, I'd change it for a new look. Certainly cheaper than buying a whole new watch. Some GMT Master II owners will swap between pepsi, black or the so called coke bezels. Google those terms and you'll see what I mean.


So, first we have to prep the watch to avoid scratches. Some may want to remove the bracelet, but that's unecessary. You'll want to place a piece of tape right on one of the lugs*, ensuring it's right up against the bezel, but NOT covering the very thin gap between the watch case and the bezel.

IF you've never done this before, there's a spring that can fly off in the next step. It's really small, and it'll be a bugger to find if it takes flight. It may not be a bad idea to place the entire watch in a plastic bag to catch the potentially airborne spring. I've done this before and know how to avoid the flying spring. It would be harder to see the pics if i used a plastic bag anyway.

*on a watch, lugs are the "shoulders" that stick out from the case, between which the bracelet or strap is attached.

STEP 2: POP Time.

Being very careful, press the tip of your knife into the crack between the case and the bezel. You need to insert it just enough for it to grab the bezel. Then pry the bezel straight up, prying against the tape covered lug. It doesn't take a ton of effort.

First pic shows the watch just after the pop, second with the bezel removed.

STEP 3: Be Very CAREFUL With This Spring.

Here's a pic of the spring that allows the bezel to click when you turn the bezel. It's not a coiled spring, but a straight spring. It's shaped like an L with a curve on the long part that has the same curve as arc of the watch face. It's a horrible thing to lose this spring. You'll also see that there is a lower ring still on the watch in the first picture. The second picture shows all the parts separated.

STEP 4: Removing the Bezel Insert.

The bezel is really 2 pieces (first (blurry) pic), the bezel, and the insert (green). The insert is made of anodized aluminum. It's pretty easy to pop out. From the back of the bezel grasp it like I'm doing in picture 2. Apply even force with your 2 fingers until it pops out of the bezel. 3rd pic is of all 4 parts. If you want to take it apart any more, you're on your own.

STEP 5: Inspection and Cleaning.

Now that it's all apart, you can inspect the bezel for wear and clean out any gunk that built up. A lot of what's in there are skin cells. Pretty nasty. I use a 4x jewelers loupe to inspect the 120 teeth on the bezel. Mine are in great shape. I used an old toothbrush and some Dawn dish detergent to degunkify.

That loupe is a cheapo, about $15 online. You can use a magnifying glass or whatever you have available.

STEP 6: Reinstalling the Bezel.

To reinstall the bezel, first place the inner ring on the watch. Then carefully insert the spring in the hole in the case and gently tuck the long part of the L into the slot along the raised round part of the watch. I'll reuse a previous picture to show you what I mean. Now take the bezel (insert still removed) and line it up with the case, starting at the spring. You'll then apply even pressure with both of your fingers as you work your way around the bezel (pic 2). Ultimately your fingers will meet opposite the spring, and if you're pressing hard enough you'll hear a distinct click as it snaps back into place. Don't be afraid to use some pressure, that stainless is strong. Gold watches will require the same pressure, but you'll want to be a touch more careful because the gold is pretty soft. Make sure you hear the click. You don't want your bezel popping off and falling through the subway platform on your way to work.

Once it snaps into place, you can rotate it and make sure everything is working properly.

STEP 7: Reinstalling the Insert.

This is very similar to installing the bezel on the watch. First, make line up the insert so the triangle is EXACTLY lined up with the 12 o'clock position. (This is another reason you may perform this instructable. You'd be surprised how many of these watches are a touch off from the factory with this alignment. Many won't notice. Some will be driven crazy)

Once positioned, do the same 2 finger walk around until the insert clicks into place. In my pic, I'm going to hear the click just when my fingers both reach the place around the 40.

That's it. You're done. Enjoy your watch. This process fixed my buggy bezel rotation. I could have just as easily popped in a black bezel if I had one.

Hope this wasn't too terrible for my first stab at an Instructable.

Thanks.........

45 Comments

Hi,
do you know where I can buy an aftermarket ring with bezel,that does not set me back one month salary?
Hi, I’m trying to find an aftermarket blue insert for my Rolex 16613 but after having bought 3 from different suppliers, I still can’t find one that actually snaps in and fits properly. I have 2 that are too big and one that is too small. My original (working but damaged) snaps back in perfectly as per your very helpful instructions. Can you suggest a supplier who does sell 16613 blue inserts that fit?
No way to cheap out completely here. You want to get the genuine Rolex part, but it doesn’t have to be new. It seems that many places have a jeweler who deals in pre owned Rolex. If so, they likely carry parts too. Hunt locally and when you buy it you can press it in right there. If it fits, you buy, if not, you don’t. I have a blue 16613 and love the thing. I think it gets more compliments than any of my other ones.

So, no specific recommendations on where, but I bet you can find a local shop with a good rep to help you out. It’s been a while since I shopped these, but think you can do pretty good for like 100 bux. You may want to try the classifieds on a site like time zone or rolexforums. Plenty of reputable sellers there.

Good luck.
I used the knife part of a standard waivters cork screw which with light pressure under the top right lug popped the bezel off easily

Thats a good trick. Much less likely to have to look up an Instructible for “how to clean blood off my Rolex”.

Sorry if i hadnt responded to some comments. These emails were going to spam for a while and i just noticed.

Super helpful. Just replaced the black bezel on my dads GMT Master II with a Pepsi. It was a glued aftermarket but looks much better “inserted” properly. Thanks again
Great details--thank you for the time spent posting this. One question asked was about the gap not allowing for butter knife. Here is what I did.........tape all lugs criss cross ontop of flat wood block Band removed. Took two old stainless paring knives one on each side and carefully worked them under both sides of bezel ring which lightly lifted the ring to walk the blades under it just enough to pry upwards with little effort. I placed the knife blades across both lug ends. Also had plenty of duct tape to prevent the csse from moving at all. Since the small paring knives were stainless and chamfered to a edge both sides, iy took little effort to convice the ring to come off without risk of bending the bezel ring. There is a tool for this on Amazon called a "bezel remover tool" $130.00. It uses a vice with 4 knives at the corners. I don't like it because the angles are 45-degrees which I find way too steep. 22.5 degrees with a longer reach seems more appropriate. Also on the cheap is a crystal vice with nylon holders angled inserts in the kit works to reinstall bezel ring uniformly. My two knives and duct tape worked great. Crystal vice with inserts is about $15.00 on Amazon or eBay. Also a Dremel and buffing wheels some Tarn-X and polishing (blue) compound will clean the parts with old toothbrush (medium) used to clean in Tarn-X, then soak in rubbing alcohol after rinsing under water--alcohol displaces any residual water. The blue polishing compound will remove scratches pretty quickly with 316 stainless which due to the Chromium content 24 Atomic Scale is used to allow Stainless to develop a microscopic pore filling coat of oxidation which prevents pitting and further corosion--hence the word "stainless". The purpose of polishing is the heat and compound acts to pore fill without oxidation. Iron-nickly (ha) I am Boriumed the 304 Stainless is superior atomically to 316. Anyway the polish is akin to pore filling Teflon developed as a oxidation preventative which at ETA is the basis of PVD or physical vapor deposition which is carbonization at 5th stage of carbon states heated to apply pore filling. However in watches I disagree with the science due to static electron attraction due to the Chromium and imputities of Aluminum and Molybdenum as equalibrium even neutrons to protons can cause electrical magnetic induction. The proprietary blend of Chinese steel these days is non-tempered annealed properly in my opinion. PVD sounds cool and is great for high friction high wear where stic electrons excitation is nor critical. E njoy your Rolex.

What should I do if I can't get a butter knife under the edge of the bezel?

hi mcgary - awsome explanation. My wife has lost the bezel, carrier, and spring for her Yachtmaster Rolex, and we have been quoted $2000 to have it repaired here in Sydney. Can you recommend where we can buy the parts and then I'll follow your instructions

Appreciate your help

Charles

Charles, your wife is lucky to have a yachtmaster which features a platinum bezel and dial. Your wife is less lucky that she has to replace that platinum bezel. That stuff is expensive. You don't have to go to a Rolex dealer to get a legit Rolex repair. A good watch shop that fixes Rolex watches should be able to show you documentation that they have a legit Rolex parts account. That's a good assurance that you're getting the real deal. It'll still be expensive, but may save you a bit. Genuine dials are certainly sold privately, but there are a lot of fakes out there. Unless you have a good amount of knowledge, buy a bezel or watch locally and meet at a watch shop who has agreed to verify authenticity (for a fee). That way you can save a few bucks from a private sale and ensure you're getting the real deal. There's no cheap answer here, but I hope this helps.

I was about to give up because I was having a heck of a time getting the bezel insert to snap in. I just couldn't seem to apply enough direct pressure. Then I thought of something I had in my garage that made it immensely easier, so I thought I'd share my solution.

The tool sitting next to my watch is a Spline Tool. The real use of this tool is to install screen material (window screen, pool cages, etc). This is an all plastic and nylon tool and the larger roller was just the right width to apply the last little bit of pressure needed to get my bezel insert to snap back into place. The Nylon roller is highly unlikely to scratch the bezel insert, so I felt it was safe to use.

I got the bezel 90% in by hand and then used the tool to help me with that last 10% that was needed to snap it in place.

So, if you just can't get the bezel insert to snap in, go to the big box store and pick one of these up for $3.00 if you don't already own one.

mcgary911, thank you very much for your informative post!!! You saved yet another person an unnecessary trip to the Rolex dealer.

Really helpful thanks. I just caught the bezel of my Sea Dweller on the exhaust of my paramotor and it popped off. Luckily it was in the boot of my car at the time so I managed to find the spring, I knew there would be one but I had no idea that it would be so small, I'd say no chance of finding it out on the street. Long story short - thanks to your excellent instructions I had it refitted like new in just a couple of minutes, definitely saved me an expensive trip to my local Rolex dealer.

Wow, lucky to find that even in the confines of your trunk. I'll admit,
I had to look to see what a paramotor was. Very cool toy. Glad you're
back in business watch-wise.

Perfect instructions, exactly what I needed, a big thanks, H

HK, glad I can help.

I guess this is a good time to say that this references the older stainless inlaid bezels, NOT the current ceramic ones offered on the Sub and GMT Master II.

This was great. I inherited a 1980's gold submariner from my father in law. My wife got it refurbished 2 1/2 years ago after her father passed and he left it to me. I am distraught that I just lost my bezel. I have no idea where it came off. Where can I get a new one? We went back to the same jeweler and they said it HAD to go back to Rolex. I am still waiting for the quote which I am sure will be quite expensive.

This has been super helpful. I have been wanting to give my grandfather a Rolex as a gift for a while now. I had a Rolex but, I wanted to remove and replace the bezel on it. At first I am a little nervous to try but this has helped a lot, thank you for your help. http://www.hayesjewelers.net

This wil work on the sport watches with rotating bezels. You'd likely want to ensure the bezel doesn't flex, as that could stress any cement used to secure the diamonds. I've never removed the bezel from a dress watch. I never had a reason to. Which one do you have? That link has a bunch of different ones. Only one is a sport watch, a GMT master. That similar to he one here, but it has fewer clicks and a straighter spring, as that bezel rotates both ways.

Huge shout out to this instructable. Just saved me $500, not to mention reassured me my stainless/gold Sub was not broke. The bevel caught on my trunk lid and popped off in my driveway; bevel and ring went flying. The spring stayed with the watch. Like others, I saw the spring and thought it was a metal shaving from the break. Luckily, I found this post before I discarded it. I called a repair shop and told me it would be $500 for service and $1K for new (gold) bevel. Instead, I followed the steps here and fixed it in 10 minutes.

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