Repair a Broken Singer 57825C Handwheel Clutch Plate.

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Intro: Repair a Broken Singer 57825C Handwheel Clutch Plate.

A common failure occurs when a Singer sewing machine breaks behind the handwheel disengaging clutch. Often a "W" shaped spring falls out when this happens and the motor and Handwheel spin but the machine doesn't function.

STEP 1: Remove the Top Cover.

Remove three screws from the machine top and disassemble the top cover.

STEP 2: Remove the Side Cover.

Remove one screw to disassemble the side cover.

STEP 3: Remove the Side Cover.

Remove one screw at the motor side and disassemble the side cover.

STEP 4: Remove the Setscrew and Lock Ring.

Remove the setscrew, lock ring, and outer handwheel from the Clutch.

STEP 5: Inspect the Clutch.

Compare the new white clutch to the broken yellow clutch. Notice the plastic is broken on the left side edge.

STEP 6: Replace or Repair the Broken Clutch.

1) Order replacement part number 357367-901 "Hand wheel disengaging clutch engaging plate cover" then skip to next step. (I found one on Amazon.com for 10 bucks).
Or
2) Repair the broken plastic part:
a. sand the plastic around the broken area.
b. Mix JB Weld plastic epoxy and build up the broken area. Multiple applications may be required to build up sufficient material.
c. Use a file to shape cured epoxy into a new drive tooth as shown in the pictures. The tooth should be square sided so it can run the sewing machine clockwise and counterclockwise.
d. Test the tooth size by fitting it into a slot in the handwheel.

STEP 7: Select an Upgraded Spring.

Shame on Singer for designing such a flawed clutch system. That "W" shaped spring is rediculous! A simple upgrade can be made by procuring a spring similar to the one shown in the pictures. A dead printer can be disassembled to harvest a dozen of these if necessary. Clip the spring to the length shown. Take care to select a spring that is just strong enough to make pinching it with two fingers slightly difficult.

STEP 8: Assemble the Spring, Metal Tube, and Clutch Plate Using the Plastic Pin.

Use the plastic rod to go through 1) the plastic support, 2) The metal tube side, 3) the spring with the short side in the tube and the long side opposite the plastic tooth. Use pliars or tweasers if needed to get the spring into place, 4) the other tube side, 5) the other plastic support side. Add a little hot glue to the pin if needed to ensure it stays in place. The metal tube should now be held leaning toward the plastic by spring force.

STEP 9: Reassemble the Handwheel.

Reassemble the Handwheel by pushing the metal tube through the handwheel and replacing the setscrew and lock ring as shown. Take care to ensure the setscrew does not extent inside the tube.

STEP 10: Reassemble the Handwheel Onto the Shaft.

Take note of where the flat side of the drive shaft has the setscrew hole. Install the handwheel taking care to pull the plastic front cover free. Align the setscrew over the shaft hole and tighten the screw. Also re-assemble the drive belt as shown.

STEP 11: Reassemble the Side Plate and Top.

Replace the side cover and tighten the one side screw. Replace the top cover and tighten the three top screws.

STEP 12: Replace the Top Cover.

Done!

The machine is now fixed in a way that is better than new!!

If the repaired part breaks just order a new part and do this again!!

Disassessembly and reassembly only takes 15 to 20 minutes!

Happy fixing!!

Here are a few other part numbers that may come in handy:
Plastic pin: 357364
Setscrew: 354813-451
Retaining lock ring: 446387

STEP 13: How to Install the Original Manufacturer Spring

I got a new spring and part so I am adding this note to augment the information above.

1) Push the straight end of the "W" spring thru the plastic hole.
2) Push the metal shaft post into place taking care to place the "W" spring in the lower groove as shown.
3) Push the plastic pin into place.
DO NOT ALLOW THE METAL POST TO MOVE YET. KEEP IT AIMED AWAY FROM THE PLASTIC TOOTH. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN THE SPRING FALLING OUT OF THE GROOVE.
3) Install the metal post into the belt driven handwheel and push it in all of the way before allowing the spring to move.
4) get the snap ring installed on the post to keep it in the handwheel. the new "W" spring should now allow the plastic part to actuate between locked and unlocked.
5) All other steps are provided above.

10 Comments

How do you rmove that darn lockspring?
What is the name of Singer's Website for ordering parts?
I bought a 57825C at a local thrift shop but it doesn't have a electric cord. I need to know which of the three contact pins need's 110 - 120 volts & which is the ground? If two of the contact pins need voltage, can that be one wire powering both or two lines of voltage, one line to one & one to the other? I can send a close up of the contact area, if needed.
Absolute legend!!! Thank you so much for posting this tutorial. Fortunately my 'tooth' was mostly intact, just a small crack where the 'w' spring fitted. I didn't go with the spring configuration detailed above though as that method doesn't actuate the clutch and you end up having to hold the clutch in to wind a bobbin. I just reinforced the lug with epoxy glue and aluminum and made a 'w' spring out of an old door latch spring (spring wire @ 1mm in diameter). Took some time to get it right but works better than new now.
How to remove the Clutch Plate in a similar Singer 9805c ?

Thank you! I got the exact same issue on a 9818 and fixed it thanks to your explanations.

Any tips on taking off the snap ring? I cant get anything between it and the shaft... stuck on that step.

I repaired one of these just a couple of months ago. The method I used was practically identical to what you did with an angled spring I happened to have in my box of spare parts. I recommend bending or rounding the end touching the plastic so that it doesn't dig in. In my case, the plastic tooth did not need repair. I agree that the original configuration was designed to fail.