Repair Your Broken Laptop Power Cord.
Intro: Repair Your Broken Laptop Power Cord.
Fix your laptop power cord that hasn't been supplying consistent power for the past month, and completely died today. No matter how much you fondle the cord into this position or that, it won't charge your battery or power-up your computer.
Here's the fix that costs zero dollars and only requires patience, some basic tools, electrical tape, and the perseverance that only a true cheapskate can muster. I performed this instructable on my very own HP Pavillion's power cord and adapter.
CONSIDERATIONS:
Where's the Break?: Consider where the break in the power cord occurs.
- This Instructable is for a break in the coaxial (round, thin) cable, near the adapter instead of near the laptop pin/plug. In my case, the cable break was close to the adapter, so much so that I had to break it apart to get enough wire for the fix. If you're even closer than I was, you may have to solder.
This instructable may not help you if:
- You have 2" of cord on either side of the break. If so, you don't need to read on. Just cut the cord at the break, expose about an inch of cord on each side, twist the separate insides together, insulate from each other w/ e-tape, then wrap the whole mess with e-tape.
- Your cord is breaking on the base-end of the strain-releif (as was the case for Surroundsound). Your fix will slightly differentiate from this Instructable. See Surroundsound5000's comment in the comments at the bottom of the page. He includes some helpful pics.
Notes: I somewhat followed Morris Rosenthal's example, as well as Prometheus' example for this instructable.
8/31/09 UPDATE: It's coming up on the year anniversary of my power cord repair. I haven't had to repair it again and haven't had any complications. Here's hoping for another year!
12/28/10 UPDATE: Consider epoxy over e-tape when binding the power adapter back together. Epoxy adds a couple bucks to the repair and can be intimidating, but it is less insulating and therefore less prone to causing the unit to overheat... Last month my power adapter started overheating (to the touch) so I decided to unwrap the whole thing, saw some air vents in the plastic, epoxy it back together, and add stick-on rubber foot pads. It helped with the overheating issues.
Here's the fix that costs zero dollars and only requires patience, some basic tools, electrical tape, and the perseverance that only a true cheapskate can muster. I performed this instructable on my very own HP Pavillion's power cord and adapter.
CONSIDERATIONS:
Where's the Break?: Consider where the break in the power cord occurs.
- This Instructable is for a break in the coaxial (round, thin) cable, near the adapter instead of near the laptop pin/plug. In my case, the cable break was close to the adapter, so much so that I had to break it apart to get enough wire for the fix. If you're even closer than I was, you may have to solder.
This instructable may not help you if:
- You have 2" of cord on either side of the break. If so, you don't need to read on. Just cut the cord at the break, expose about an inch of cord on each side, twist the separate insides together, insulate from each other w/ e-tape, then wrap the whole mess with e-tape.
- Your cord is breaking on the base-end of the strain-releif (as was the case for Surroundsound). Your fix will slightly differentiate from this Instructable. See Surroundsound5000's comment in the comments at the bottom of the page. He includes some helpful pics.
Notes: I somewhat followed Morris Rosenthal's example, as well as Prometheus' example for this instructable.
8/31/09 UPDATE: It's coming up on the year anniversary of my power cord repair. I haven't had to repair it again and haven't had any complications. Here's hoping for another year!
12/28/10 UPDATE: Consider epoxy over e-tape when binding the power adapter back together. Epoxy adds a couple bucks to the repair and can be intimidating, but it is less insulating and therefore less prone to causing the unit to overheat... Last month my power adapter started overheating (to the touch) so I decided to unwrap the whole thing, saw some air vents in the plastic, epoxy it back together, and add stick-on rubber foot pads. It helped with the overheating issues.
STEP 1: Set Up and Evaluation
Tools I used: Chisel, Hacksaw, Electrical tape (or shrink tubing), wire cutters and/or strippers, flat head screwdriver (preferably sharp-ish and wide-ish), optional: two monkey wrenches for prying.
Time: It took me about 1 hour, most of which was spent figuring out how to pry open the adapter box.
Time: It took me about 1 hour, most of which was spent figuring out how to pry open the adapter box.
STEP 2: Break the Box: Getting Into the Adapter
It took many techniques to figure out how to open up the adapter box. The plastic was too weak to crack open w/ just a screwdriver. It just scratched with pressure, while the seam remained firmly bonded.
So, I managed to create a deep groove around the entire seam w/ a chisel. The groove helped to safely (and, unfortunately, extremely slowly) hack-saw my way through the plastic shell (not any further than the thickness of the plastic). Even at this point, the two shell halves remained attached to one another. So, a slow and steady twist of a broad flat-headed screwdriver at each corner cracked something inside to enable the box to finally open.
So, I managed to create a deep groove around the entire seam w/ a chisel. The groove helped to safely (and, unfortunately, extremely slowly) hack-saw my way through the plastic shell (not any further than the thickness of the plastic). Even at this point, the two shell halves remained attached to one another. So, a slow and steady twist of a broad flat-headed screwdriver at each corner cracked something inside to enable the box to finally open.
STEP 3: HP Adapter Insides
This is the precious inside. Top view and bottom view. I pretty much didn't open up any further than this and I tried to avoid any damage to any parts inside.
STEP 4: Fixing the Cord
The cord was coiled up slightly inside the box. I pulled it out all the way. Cut the cord at the end of the rubber spring thing (aka "strain relief") where the cord was breaking. Then I tried stripping off the "strain relief" w/ pliers... that didn't work, so I used a razor blade and slit one side lengthwise and kind of unwrapped the "strain relief" off the coaxial cable. I tried to keep the "strain relief" intact so that I could use it for the same function when I was done.
Then, I proceeded to strip all ends of the cable, remembering which was inner and which was outer in the coaxial. (If you have enough space to afford some staggering in the stripping, do so to further prevent short circuiting.) I twisted together the outer wire, thoroughly taping. Then twisted the inner, thoroughly taping. Then wrapped the "strain relief" back around the newly repaired cord.
Soldering would have been more secure, but I had none of that equipment around. The access to the soldering points in the adapter isn't horribly difficult, but it may require further disassembly, which I wasn't interested in doing.
Then, I proceeded to strip all ends of the cable, remembering which was inner and which was outer in the coaxial. (If you have enough space to afford some staggering in the stripping, do so to further prevent short circuiting.) I twisted together the outer wire, thoroughly taping. Then twisted the inner, thoroughly taping. Then wrapped the "strain relief" back around the newly repaired cord.
Soldering would have been more secure, but I had none of that equipment around. The access to the soldering points in the adapter isn't horribly difficult, but it may require further disassembly, which I wasn't interested in doing.
STEP 5: Close Up Shop, May Add Reenforcements
Finally, I got to shut-er up. Unfortunately, I didn't have the benefit of an adapter box that locked shut or was fused or glued shut, so I got clever with some duck tape and Black e-tape for finishing. Some commenters have innovated and closed up the adapter box w/ a glue-gun. [UPDATE 12/28/10: After 1.5 years of wear and tear, the original repair job using e-tape started causing the adapter to overheat, so I resorted to epoxying the case together.
OPTIONAL: For some added support, I taped a rubber splint about where the previous break had occurred. I used some thin rubber sheeting material that was in the corner of my garage. It was just luck that this rubber sheeting as stiffer than just the cord, but more pliable than the "strain relief" which means the cord will curve gradually under any side tension.
Hope this might help some a ya, that are in dire straits with you computer power supply cord! Good luck and be careful!
OPTIONAL: For some added support, I taped a rubber splint about where the previous break had occurred. I used some thin rubber sheeting material that was in the corner of my garage. It was just luck that this rubber sheeting as stiffer than just the cord, but more pliable than the "strain relief" which means the cord will curve gradually under any side tension.
Hope this might help some a ya, that are in dire straits with you computer power supply cord! Good luck and be careful!
100 Comments
BradRNZ 3 years ago
Opiate WithdrawalB 7 years ago
helloI have bought a powercord for a hp zd8000 that worked for 3 uses than the light on the adapter box lights upbut no power to the laptop. I tried unplugging the bat and plugging in cord but nothing. Can u help please. text me at 410-934-7587 or cleverwilliamf@gmail.com
IanC136 7 years ago
Same happened to me a few times. The problem is the cable which is often rubbish and it over time breaks somewhere. The cable should never be soldered inside the charger There should be a separate plug to plug in the cable that goes to your computer, as the charger is in good condition. The cable is the problem.
DejahV 9 years ago
AkashM38 7 years ago
DejahV 9 years ago
AkashM38 7 years ago
KashiS1 8 years ago
it's fine now, right??
AkashM38 7 years ago
AkashM38 7 years ago
DavidnDolores 8 years ago
Ok so blood sacrifices being out of the realm of possibility dombert, the point was well taken. dang near impossible to get the thing open.
After drilling feet out looking for screws, banging the glue seals with hammer softened inside towel....Nothing....
What worked? Hacksaw, that was the tool that actually cracked the seal so I could get it open
nono_momo 8 years ago
well this is kinda weird... my break is close to the plugin on my pc and its a white wire. now heres the thing... it will charge if i pull it this way or that way but, i have to hold it... now if only i could solder :(
laptop_keys 8 years ago
Wonderful information on how to fix the laptop power cord
john.ohara.3194 9 years ago
I rang out the both cables while twisting them, continuity
ok, opened unit, green LED never lights, no voltage out to type of. Guess it's a goner.out the wires, con
araceliS 9 years ago
Its pretty dangerous. Did it work for you afterward? I expect it did. My hp power adapter didn't work before and i didn't repire it.I bough a new one from eachbattery.com. It is a great source for OEM chargers if you can find them.
ashraffouad 10 years ago
selorm65 11 years ago
roreru 11 years ago
thanks,
actionscription 11 years ago
aonash 11 years ago
A while ago, the adapter-charger of my laptop (Acer Extensa 4630Z) had a short-circuited wire outlet. After following the step-by-step instructions presented in this online guide I was able to repair my adapter-charger for my laptop.
Besides a flat-head screwdriver and duct tape, I had made use of a pair of scissors to serve as a wire cutter and also made use of a household candle and a set of safety matches.
I found it easier to pry open the casing of the adapter-charger using the above-mentioned utilities. I had to heat the end of a rusted screwdriver to quicken the process and pry open the casing; and viola I fixed it in no time at all!
Opening the casing of the adapter-charger by sheer physical force and using a hacksaw was rather dangerous, energy-draining and time-consuming.
To prevent overheating, leave the side open - only tape the center - to permit heat to escape which automatically cools down the adapter-charger to prevent any overheating.