Repairing Split Wood
Intro: Repairing Split Wood
In an otherwise attractive piece of wood, an unsightly split or crack can run deep like family turmoil. Most wood fillers are intended to be little more than aesthetic solutions. Even the hardiest fillers are intended to withstand compressive forces but not sheer stress. Here I will demonstrate my solution for when I don't want to give-up on a piece of wood. This block was salvaged from a eucalyptus tree that fell on my grandmother's house (don't worry, I'm fine). I want to be able to work on it without risk of further splittage.
I do all my wood repair at TechShop.
I do all my wood repair at TechShop.
STEP 1: Supplies
I have found polyester resin to the be ideal for this kind of repair. It is very strong in it's cured state, it seeps into fibers and produces a strong bond (it's intended use is laminating wood and resining fiberglass) and it is slightly flexible, so it will move with wood as it bends and expands with humidity.
*Not pictured: the necessary plastic bag
*Not pictured: the necessary plastic bag
STEP 2: Prep
I prefer jet black for most wood replair work. I have given-up trying to match wood colors when disguising a crack. In dark wood a black fill won't stand-out much, and in light wood it can look like the figuring of white ebony or cappuccino gelato. It's my piece, don't judge me. Specialized pigments are available for resin, though I have found almost any black coloring works. Here I am using black airbrush paint. A little bit of it goes a long way.
Tape-up the sides and bottom of the piece to keep the resin inside. Cracks run deep, so it is sometimes wise to tape the entire piece inside a plastic bag. Do the repair work before making any cuts or planing on the wood and don't worry about the resin puddling on the outside.
Tape-up the sides and bottom of the piece to keep the resin inside. Cracks run deep, so it is sometimes wise to tape the entire piece inside a plastic bag. Do the repair work before making any cuts or planing on the wood and don't worry about the resin puddling on the outside.
STEP 3: Pour
Pour it in the cracks until it overflows.
STEP 4: And Use the Bag
Just to keep everything within the confines of the wood, I taped a bag around it.
STEP 5: The Unveiling
You got resin everywhere. It's a good thing we used the plastic bag.
STEP 6: Finished
Polyester resin can be worked with most woodworking tools. Be careful if you choose to go at it with a chisel, the excess resin will throw-off glass-like shards when impacted. A bandsaw will cut easily and safely, then the resin can be planed, routed, or sanded. This is a structural repair, so the block is now fit for any purpose as a solid piece.
216 Comments
Boatdoc61 1 year ago
rooniemag 2 years ago
(First image shows how far down it goes and has my index finger for reference, second image shows the path of the crack going deep. I'll be able to get better picutres once I have something that isn't my laptop's webcam, lol)
niblick45 2 years ago
hwallach 3 years ago
jeff_berk1 2 years ago
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/fiberglass/polyester_resins/tap_bond_coat_laminating_polyester_resin/37
Mammoth_Media 3 years ago
JOHNCONKLIN 4 years ago
RickWW47 4 years ago
JasonB589 4 years ago
Hophead1 4 years ago
Can the cured filler be turned on a wood lathe?
JasonB589 4 years ago
Ncoonis1 4 years ago
MichaelW738 5 years ago
My question to you is the brand and name of the resin you are using? It's got to be cheaper than the $6 tubes of epoxy I have.
Sincerely,
Mike Woodward
Lynchburg, VA
gfc62 5 years ago
kieshar 5 years ago
Is there a brand of Epoxy do you prefer to use for your instructable?
timsmith90 6 years ago
I don't think the resin would increase the structural strength of the timber. Clamping the timber with a wood glue is a better solution as it will be stronger and not split the same way again. The resin is just a filler not a form of strengthening which was required in your above posting.
Spence1953 5 years ago
I'd be very surprised if splits in lumber, as shown by Scotttland, could be closed up by clamping. Wood glue is not a filler...so if one cannot get excellent contact between surfaces, then wood glue is NOT called for. Epoxy is typically called upon for filling gaps and adding strength. I agree that polyester resin is a filler that is not likely to be a form of strengthening, however, I don't know where you saw the requirement for strengthening in the wood used in this Instructable. I took it for granted Scotttland was going to carve it or otherwise use it artistically.
DianaA76 6 years ago
Hi there, may I ask what exact resin you have used. If I'm correct, usually resin is drying in a red or pink-ish colour to show when it's perfect. As I'm looking to poor it into wood (as yourself) I do prefer a neutral or transparent colour so I can mix it with dark and it doesn't have a pink or red tinch. Thanks for your help.
Spence1953 5 years ago
I am not familiar with the red or pinkish tint of set resin that you speak of. Perhaps that is a "feature" of a certain brand. To my knowledge, the typical set resin is clear or nearly clear. I would expect that whatever brand you consider buying, the color of the set resin will be disclosed somewhere in the description or the technical specifications.
AliH278 6 years ago