Introduction: Safari Glamping Tent

Backyard, garden fun can not be complete without fireplace and something to dwell in, invite friends to sleepover, read your book and for fathers - to hide away after lunch. A glamping tent. This summer we have decided to add this one to our garden. The project can be made in 2 weekends if you have all the supplies. Lets go.


  • 6-9pcs metal anchors (here 7pcs)
  • wooden beams ideally 4x6 (here 5 pcs)
  • leftover deck planks (here 9m2, 3x3m)
  • wood impregnation
  • varnish
  • nuts and bolts
  • screws for the deck planks
  • screws for the construction (150 mm, here 10pcs)
  • 2 bags of concrete in a bag
  • construction posts (here 8cm round 4m long posts, total 8pcs)
  • tent (of course)
  • 10mm natural rope
  • furniture to suit
  • christmas lights

Step 1: The Place the Size

After carefull selection of the place in the garden (the tent can be centerpiece of your garden as well as it can hide some of the less appealing places), the first is to make your plans. Our is on the picture. It is of quite generous size 3x3m (10x10 feet), it would be enough to have 2,5x2m as well. But we wanted something to get later equiped with vinil player and the other old school gadgets, so we went for 3x3m. The other dimensions are shown on the picture.

Step 2: Construction of Deck Frame

The deck is simple flat structure made from two sets of beams. First set (3pcs) is screwed to the anchors (each 2 pcs on sides, one in the center of the deck so total 7 pcs of anchors), the second set (5pcs) run crosswise. Crossbeams are screwed to the first set.

First step here is to screw the metal anchors to your beams. Than you temporarily place them to the final position and mark the places where you need to dig holes. Marking is easily done by wooden sticks or spray paints. Than you dig your holes for the anchors so that their bottom is flat and they are not too big as there were only 2 bags of concrete on the list :-). Support and temporarily fix the beams with wood pieces and wedges leveling the beams during concreting just a bit above ground to prevent the wood from rot. Check your measurements. Than you pour your concrete into the holes around anchors and wait at least 2 days. After the concrete sets, remove temporary supports and put second layer of beams crosswise and plumb it to the anchored beams. Empty spaces on the sides of the frame are just closed with cutoff beams for better look.

Step 3: Deck

The next is to use your lefover planks (here 2,5cm thick, various widths, cut to 150cm lenght or according to your frame layout). We have used 9m2 of leftovers from our earlier projects and screwed them to the major beams by 50mm deck screws (2 inch). We have used basically all available screws we had in our shop. Planks will help with stifness of the deck.

We have treated the deck with wood impregnation against mold and gave it 2 layers of varnish (sanding in between) for bare feet comfort and safety.

Step 4: Poles

Poles of 8cm diameter (3 inch), 4m lenght were used, but any wooden poles can be used and do not need to be perfectly straight. They keep right angle (90deg.) on the top and are fastened together with heavy screws of 150mm (6inch) and bolts. We thought we will put them to concrete as well, but that s not necessary. Right now they are just standing on the ground.

To make it more stable we have added braces on the side and fastened them also by long screws.

Step 5: Tent

Making the tent is a project by itself (and future instructable?). Its construction is however very easy. It is made from natural 8oz (200g) per sqm canvas and that can be delivered already with hydrofobic treatment. The fabric is sold in 145cm width. The tent is sewn from easy shapes (triangles, rectangles) as you can get from the dimension drawing. Double folded seams are necessary as the weigh of the tent is afterall something like 30kg. Good thread is also necessary. Metal eyelets are hammered through the fabric on the top of the tent and also at the end of the upright sides. Ropes and eyelets are used as a closing mechanism for the front doors which I have seen on some very old tents and it works well, better than knobs. No windows, pockets or other bells and whistles were made. The tent has no floor obviously.

We have put hooks on the upper pole and hang the tent on it. The reason not to use rope here is to keep smooth surface for the top rainfly without waves. It was somewhat easier to put it up as well than to use rope there. Upraight walls of the tent are wound up to the horizontal poles by linen rope. This makes it easier to have the right tension in the tent for good look.

On the top of the tent we have put up a rainfly (separate piece of fabric) that has rectangular shape and it is made from the same hydrofobic fabric as the tent. So you actually have 2 roofs at the end, see the pictures. The rainfly is 3,5x6m extending a bit around the tent on all sides hanging over the upper pole. Sides of the rainfly are also equiped with brass eyelets every 30cm (1 feet) and nicely tight to the same horizontal poles as the tent. That is making a lot of rope which is practical and nice :-). The rainfly to our surprise works well also as heat protection during hot days.

Tent skirt is hooked to small hooks on sides of the deck to prevent cats to enter without a ticket.

Step 6: Final Touches

The tent just must be equipped with christmas lights, some beds or matraces, pillows, vinyl record player, long wave radio and books. It is great for kids to play, hideaway, read and listen to the rain, enjoy the night creepy sounds.

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