Small Display Case
Intro: Small Display Case
This is a small display case consisting of two halves:
The motivation to build this display case from scratch came from several reasons:
- the bottom half shaped like a tray, with four additional vertical pillars,
- the top half with the glass plate.
The motivation to build this display case from scratch came from several reasons:
- After envisaging buying two picture frames, it turned out that (1) I could not find frames that are thick enough, (2) frames made in China means kerosene, (3) I cannot get the exact size I want, and (4) it would cost 2 X 20$ for wooden frames of nice quality.
- I had remaining wood from a former project. So the cost is just the glass (approx 8$) and the investment for a router bit to make the grooves (20$)
- Building from scratch is more fun!
STEP 1: Needed Stuff
Materials:
As said before, I had remaining wood from a former project. But the list is pretty simple:
As said before, I had remaining wood from a former project. But the list is pretty simple:
- Wood bars. Preferably hard wood (beech, oak, etc.)
- MDF or plywood plate, e.g. 5 mm thick
- Glass, 3 mm thick. The best is to measure the needed size at the end of Step 3. Ask the shop to cut it to size.
- A few screws and dowels
- Wood glue (modest quantity)
- Linseed oil (modest quantity)
- Saw or electrical jigsaw
- Sand paper, sanding machine (or sanding block)
- Framing vise (optional)
- Router and router bit for 4 mm wide groove
STEP 2: Cut Wood to Length
To get 2 frames:
- 2 x 2 x long bars
- 2 x 2 x short bars
For the pillars:
- 4 x shorter bars
The bars that I have (from a former project) have a particular cut. I used this cut as a recess in the frames corner, for the pillars.
- 2 x 2 x long bars
- 2 x 2 x short bars
For the pillars:
- 4 x shorter bars
The bars that I have (from a former project) have a particular cut. I used this cut as a recess in the frames corner, for the pillars.
STEP 3: Assemble Frames
Assemble each frame, optionally with the help of a framing vise for best alignment.
Use dowels and screws. Drill holes for dowels, pre-drill holes for screws. Glue the dowels into the short frame sides, by means of a drop of wood glue.
Mark each piece with a pencil in order to remember their ordering.
Measure the required size of the board and glass plate (taking the groove's depth into account).
Disassemble the frames for the next step.
Use dowels and screws. Drill holes for dowels, pre-drill holes for screws. Glue the dowels into the short frame sides, by means of a drop of wood glue.
Mark each piece with a pencil in order to remember their ordering.
Measure the required size of the board and glass plate (taking the groove's depth into account).
Disassemble the frames for the next step.
STEP 4: Make Grooves
Make the grooves with the router. Use a bit for 4 mm wide and 10 mm deep grooves.
WARNING! a router is an extremely dangerous tool. It rotates much faster than a drill, and can cause nasty wounds.
- Wear protection glasses and work gloves
- Tighten wooden parts in a very stable vise
- Hold router with both hands
- Exercise on some scrap wood
WARNING! a router is an extremely dangerous tool. It rotates much faster than a drill, and can cause nasty wounds.
- Wear protection glasses and work gloves
- Tighten wooden parts in a very stable vise
- Hold router with both hands
- Exercise on some scrap wood
STEP 5: Sand and Oil
Re-assemble both frames.
Sand the joints for perfect alignment. Sand chamfers wherever wanted.
Apply linseed oil.
Sand the joints for perfect alignment. Sand chamfers wherever wanted.
Apply linseed oil.
STEP 6: Cut Bottom Board and Top Glass
Cut the board to required size.
STEP 7: Assemble Bottom Part
Insert the board into the bottom frame.
Remount the frame, secure it with screws.
Place and adjust the pillars, secure them with screws (pre-drill holes).
Remount the frame, secure it with screws.
Place and adjust the pillars, secure them with screws (pre-drill holes).
STEP 8: Assemble Top Part
Mount the top part: assemble the frame with the glass. Secure the frame with screws.
If necessary, sand the corners so that they fit "quite freely" into the pillars.
If necessary, sand the corners so that they fit "quite freely" into the pillars.
STEP 9: Finished Product!
Populate and enjoy the new display case!
21 Comments
dellis14 9 years ago
beader1986 12 years ago
Set271 12 years ago
slysimon 12 years ago
Thanks for the instructable.
Bosun Rick 12 years ago
I cannot believe there were 6 comments on the contents of the case before anyone even talked about the project!!
Nice I'ble, I too would want to make a coffe table for memento display.
slysimon 12 years ago
laxap 12 years ago
Pilgrimm 12 years ago
anode505 12 years ago
Nice project
t.rohner 12 years ago
The 1401 is more of a calculator, with all the math functions on individual keys on the upper right, whereas on the displayed unit, you only find the cursor keys.
Both units are Basic programmable, the PC1500 has a additional Z80 inside.
laxap 12 years ago
t.rohner 12 years ago
I used it at school, besides a HP.
I just found out, that my "PC1500" is actually a PC1600 with 4 character lines.
I used it as a replacement for a punch-strip reader in a old NC-milling machine. (with quite some assembler code...)
I still have them, just not in such a nice display case...
laxap 12 years ago
What role did your PC-1600 play, with the milling machine? BTW I did a lot of assembly code, but with the PC-1500...
On the right, a PC-1360. Slim, no-frills, with four lines of display, two extension bays. A very elegant little machine. The last one of the super-quality Sharps. The next ones (e.g. PC-E500) were with rubber keys and all-plastic cases.
t.rohner 12 years ago
They used to edit their programs on a teletype with tape reader and puncher, a "modern" matrix printer and a one line display.
The editing on the Atari was a huge leap in user friendliness in programming there.
I interfaced the teletype to the Atari first. That way, they were able to transport the programs to the milling machine.
But the cincinnati was the only machine left, without a serial interface and some storage capacity, so i used the PC1600 for that.
bpfh 12 years ago
HEWLETT PACKEDUP, TAKE NOTE!
ibwebb 12 years ago
Kasm279 12 years ago
laxap 12 years ago
ibwebb 12 years ago
susanrm 12 years ago