I made one of these wheat-filled heat pads years ago after the umpteenth time of having a hot water bottle perish. I based that one on our Columbian Cochin hen 'Snowy' but 'Snuggly Snowy' is getting a little frayed around the embroidery, so I decided to make another. As it will soon be Easter and the shop windows are full of rabbits as well as chicks, I decided on 'Snuggle Bunny'. I also wanted to use a filling that in part comprised the dried cherry stones from the Morello cherries we'd so enjoyed last Summer. As a model, I was inspired by a well-loved toy. Thus Snuggle Bunny not only keeps the cold away in the Winter but is a warmth of memories too.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

Two types of fabrics, the size will depend on your design. I used the following:

20" (50cm) square of organic cotton percale (sheeting)

20" (50cm) square of fake fur (velvet, chenille or brushed cotton would also be good as would anything that was snuggly!)

brown paper - I used a large flour bag

pins

sewing thread

scissors

pencil

needle if hand sewing

sewing machine

organic cherry stones, triticale, wheat, rice... for the filling. You can also use mixes

cardboard

white wool

glass eyes (optional)

something round to trace around to make a pompom tail template - I used two different sized pastry cutters.

chopstick

Step 2: Design

I just placed the plush rabbit on the paper, drew around it and cut it out. This was so much simpler than the last time when I had to bribe Snowy with a whole pear to get her into the right position for the photograph!

Step 3: Cutting Out

For the inner heat pad, fold the square of fabric in two with the right-sides-together. Position the paper pattern, then pin and cut. I cut close in around the line of the paper pattern, having first folded back the paper paw as the finished paw will 'plump up' with the seam allowance on the fake fur fabric.

For the fake fur fabric I did the same as for the inner except I cut a seam allowance around the rabbit pattern of 1" (2cm).

Step 4: Sewing

For the inner pad, my sewing line was ½" (1cm) from the edge of the fabric. Remember to leave enough of the base open to fill with wheat.

For the outer cover I kept my pattern pinned to the fabric whilst I sewed as it makes a good sewing guide and I allowed ½" (1cm) from the edge of the pattern. If you have very slippery fabric it is also an idea to baste (tack) the fabric together around the outline.

The outer cover was trimmed back as closely as possible to the sewing line and any sharp angles, such as near the paws and ears, were snipped into the seam to ease the fabric so that it would lie flat.

To aid turning the fabric to get the right sides out, I used a chopstick to help in turning the ears and face.

Step 5: Choice of Filling, Preparation... and Filling

There are many choices for fillings suitable for heat pads and there are many internet sites that have made in-depth studies comparing everything from specific heat capacity and heating-up times to comfort and fragrance. Over the years, I've used triticale, which is an old variety of wheat and rye mix. This is mainly because it was close at hand as I buy it from my local organic farm to sprout for my chickens. I also buy their wheat for the same reason and as mentioned above I now have cherry pits too. Any grain or stones/pits etc., you are going to use in your heat pad should be well-dried. My original filling from Snuggly Snowy of cherry pits and triticale is, as you can see very seasoned over the years but as I intended on topping it up for Snuggle Bunny with organic wheat taken from our chicken food bin, I needed to make sure it was fully dry. I therefore placed it in the oven for for 15 minutes at a temperature of 300°F or 150°C. This not only deals with any lingering moisture but it also gets rid of any weevils which can be present in organic grain because it is so yummy and doesn't contain pesticides or preservatives.

The filling was then placed in the inner heat pad and the gap was then sewn up. If you want to you can put a zipper in the inner pad, this will allow for additional filling later or for you to make a complete change if needed.

Step 6: The Tail

The tail is made by wrapping wool around a cardboard template. The template comprises two identical circles of cardboard with a hole cut in the middle so it looks like a ring doughnut.

Once you have cut your templates. place them together and begin to wrap them with wool. Start by holding on to the end of the wool and wrapping in an even movement to cover the whole of the doughnut carry on working your way around the whole of the template, over and over until you can no longer pass the wool through the hole in the middle. Snip around the edge of the pompom and then secure by running a piece of wool between the two templates pulling it tight and securing it with a knot. The templates can then be removed and voilà - a pompom tail to be fixed to Snuggle Bunny.

Step 7: Finishing

Add the eyes. Place the pad inside the Snuggle Bunny and secure with a fastener of your choice. I used press studs.

Step 8: Heating

I do not have a micro-wave and so can't advise on how to heat the pad this way but there are not only many sites which can show you this on the internet but there are other great versions of the heat pad in this competition which have provided full instructions on how to heat with a microwave. I have two ways I heat Snuggle Bunny:-

I heat the inner pad in our woodburner at 150 deg C (approx 300F) for 15 minutes. I turn it several times and I cover it with baking paper to prevent scorching.

I place the inner pad in a saucepan (with a lid), in the evening on the top of our wood stove in the sitting room. This works perfectly well. Again I do turn it a couple of times it to get an even heat.

As an alternative, you can also use Snuggle Bunny as a cold pad. To do this, freeze the inner pad in a plastic bag for 3 hours to make a soothing treatment for sprains and bruises.

Have fun and keep warm!