Solar Heater
Intro: Solar Heater
This is a solar air convection heater for my garage that is powered by the low angle winter sun. It's easy to build and it works very well. With enough building insulation, this can be a primary heat source with a secondary needed for cloudy days. The idea and design is from Mother Earth News December/January 2007
Ingredients:
2x8 lumber
2x6 lumber
2x4 lumber
2x2 lumber
glass, plexiglass, or some kind of clear material.
black aluminum window screen
caulking, paint, screws, lag screws, staple gun + other tools
I have some results on temperature differences from the first weeks of operation. Just like when you put up your first wind generator, the wind won't blow for days/weeks, I had overcast and mostly cloudy weather the first few days operating this thing. The heater puts out 87 to 104 degrees F at the vents on partly cloudy days to sunny days. The uninsulated garage hits about 17 to 30 degrees F above outside temps, very comfortable for me. It seems the colder it is outside, the bigger the temperature difference between the garage and outside. If you want more heat in an uninsulated area I would recommend possibly 1/3 more collector area than the ratio I give in the instructions. Seal up any drafts, it will do a lot to hold the heat. This thing works great.
Ingredients:
2x8 lumber
2x6 lumber
2x4 lumber
2x2 lumber
glass, plexiglass, or some kind of clear material.
black aluminum window screen
caulking, paint, screws, lag screws, staple gun + other tools
I have some results on temperature differences from the first weeks of operation. Just like when you put up your first wind generator, the wind won't blow for days/weeks, I had overcast and mostly cloudy weather the first few days operating this thing. The heater puts out 87 to 104 degrees F at the vents on partly cloudy days to sunny days. The uninsulated garage hits about 17 to 30 degrees F above outside temps, very comfortable for me. It seems the colder it is outside, the bigger the temperature difference between the garage and outside. If you want more heat in an uninsulated area I would recommend possibly 1/3 more collector area than the ratio I give in the instructions. Seal up any drafts, it will do a lot to hold the heat. This thing works great.
STEP 1: Frame and Fit
Make a box to mount on the wall of building (A south wall, SE and SW also can work.) This should be mounted vertically on a wall; the higher in the sky summer sun won't hit it as directly as the low winter sun. The walls of the box are 2x6 lumber; the angled "roof" of the box is a 2x8. I found it good to prebuild the box on the ground and then mount it to the wall. Make the box based on stud spacing in the walls; I have 24" studs, so my box is 8' wide with vents cut into four sections.
I sized the solar collector based on the numbers from the Mother Earth article where the guy built 160sq ft. of collector for his 700 sq ft building; using that ratio I built a 48 sq ft collector for my 200 sq ft garage.
I sized the solar collector based on the numbers from the Mother Earth article where the guy built 160sq ft. of collector for his 700 sq ft building; using that ratio I built a 48 sq ft collector for my 200 sq ft garage.
STEP 2: Paint and Add Screen Mounting Boards
Paint the wood and then mount the boards that the aluminum window screen will mount to. Insert a 2x4 horizontally near the bottom leaving room for vent holes, insert 2x2 horizontally at the top; make it even with the 2x4 (look at the drawing to understand this better.)
I notched the middle board for a 2x2 that will later support the glazing.
I notched the middle board for a 2x2 that will later support the glazing.
STEP 3: Mount to Wall and Seal
Use a level, floor jack and support wood to set it straight. Have a neighbor hold it while predrilling holes from the inside of the building for the lag screws. I used six 4" lag screws.
Seal the box from the inside with window and door foam. Also seal the bottom 2x4 that holds the screen.
Seal the box from the inside with window and door foam. Also seal the bottom 2x4 that holds the screen.
STEP 4: Cut Vents Into Wall
Cut the holes in the wall like in the diagram, a vent on the bottom and on top for each stud section. Watch out for electrical wiring, etc.
My vents are 4" x 16"
The cuts are not pretty, use foil tape to trim the inside edge of the vents
This was the toughest part because I didn't have a good saw.
My vents are 4" x 16"
The cuts are not pretty, use foil tape to trim the inside edge of the vents
This was the toughest part because I didn't have a good saw.
STEP 5: Install Metal Window Screen
Cut and staple black metal window screen (two layers) to the wood inserts in the box.
Note, this needs to be metal window screen for good heat exchanging; fiberglass screen won't work well.
I used 48" wide screen and had to trim the edge some with a utility knife.
Note, this needs to be metal window screen for good heat exchanging; fiberglass screen won't work well.
I used 48" wide screen and had to trim the edge some with a utility knife.
STEP 6: Install Glazing and Vent Valves
Install glazing and seal it. I used corrugated PVC; it comes in 8' x 24" sheets for about $12/sheet (2007 pricing.)
On the top vents in the building you'll need to put a flapper valve made from plastic sheeting or a trash bag, this keeps the warm air from leaving at night as the heater would work in reverse. Also put some screen on the vents to keep most of the critters out and to keep the plastic valves from sucking into the vent.
Extra notes
Using recycled wood and some on-hand hardware, I spent around $100 for this; now I'm enjoying free heat.
Ducting with a fan and a thermostat switch is what they use on commercial versions installed on homes. That works well for precise heat control. I like convection, no moving parts; and I will just close the vents when the weather gets warmer with some cardboard stapled to the wall.
On the top vents in the building you'll need to put a flapper valve made from plastic sheeting or a trash bag, this keeps the warm air from leaving at night as the heater would work in reverse. Also put some screen on the vents to keep most of the critters out and to keep the plastic valves from sucking into the vent.
Using recycled wood and some on-hand hardware, I spent around $100 for this; now I'm enjoying free heat.
Ducting with a fan and a thermostat switch is what they use on commercial versions installed on homes. That works well for precise heat control. I like convection, no moving parts; and I will just close the vents when the weather gets warmer with some cardboard stapled to the wall.
284 Comments
bdarnold 15 years ago
fzbw9br 6 years ago
buy those filler strips for corrugated plexi, and sandwich a tight screen between two on either side of the screen. This will create a horizontal wave in the screen.
Also paint the backing flat black, and perhaps make it from corrugated material as well... turbulence is what helps with the heat exchange.
avid0g 14 years ago
I would love to hear of other experiments with 1" or 2" air filters that have been painted with flat black paint, especially fiberglass, open-cell sponge and cheap pleated filters.
Although it is expensive, 1/4" thick white Melamine foam (like in Mr Clean Magic Sponge and thicker sound dampers) has outstanding properties and might be close to 98% efficient in absorbing solar energy, once it is painted.
I suspect that the material does not have to be a good thermal conductor, if it is in intimate contact with the air stream. The earliest american patents on solar air heaters refer to prior art using wool!
Greencrafter 13 years ago
avid0g 13 years ago
1) Air flow through the panel is much better than laminar air flow along the panel.
2) A louver-shaped punched will admit very little light through the panel to the wall surface.
3) A Micro-punched array will minimize laminar flow and reduce the surface temperature of the sheet. Foil, or very thin sheet metal, is easy to micro-punch.
4) Using stainless steel, which has a high nickel content, means that the surface can be heated until it oxidizes the nickel content, creating a dark blue metal surface. Many studies show that this is an excellent selective solar absorber. This should increase the performance of the absorber by a factor of 2 or 3 over any available paint.
Spiraling Homesteader 13 years ago
Say you have south facing windows - what's stopping us from using the screen for each window, pitching it correctly and having it placed so air can pass between it and the window easily (since most screen blocks 70% of air flow)?
Wouldn't this work in the same manner - just inside the structure, rather than outside the structure?
I will be trying this as I have many windows appropriately placed in the house and 1 large 1 in the work space I am hoping to heat.
Any suggestions on measuring efficacy since it will be in a heated space but a cloudy location of the US?
robbtoberfest 13 years ago
avid0g 13 years ago
http://www.perforatedmetalscreen.com/perforatedmetalimages/perforatedmetallouvers.jpg
http://www.okayi.com.sg/sunscreen.html
wobbler 13 years ago
To double the output, you would need to double the area of sunlight you are collecting from, not the area of the collector surface.
You can however collect more energy by angling the collector to point towards the sun so that the collector is making best use of its area, but the angle and gains would depend on your latitude and I suspect not be worth that much in terms of construction problems compared to just making it slightly bigger.
EagleEye 14 years ago
Dudeyowuzup 13 years ago
Please, I'm open to suggestions. Until then, I feel like my solar heater project was a waste. Thanks for your help.
gfry 13 years ago
fzbw9br 6 years ago
I have read it is important to "Unseal" a sealed thermopane window, as the pressure can build up in them from heat that they will blow out the glass.
four small holes, one at the bottom of each corner, and one at the top of each corner is all you need, and it vents the moisture also. Also, ensure you have upward holes drilled through the frame somewhere to allow the air to move through, but water will not track up. stuff with "ScotchBrite" pad material to keep out small bugs
As windows have negligible R value, you don't lose much by venting with air.
fzbw9br 6 years ago
I agree with the author, build your box to include the angle. , or put a back on it, move it away for the wall, build channels to feed the air, and insulate the heck out of the back, and channels.
as for the angle of mirrors, just take one and a carpenter's protractor, and when the sun goes past the point where the rays are starting to miss, set up your mirror and measure the angle you need.
A small mirror would work for this to get this info, before spending $ on big ones.
You should be able to see if it will be effective or not.
Good Luck.
robbtoberfest 13 years ago
andrefierens 7 years ago
Nice ! Genius ! Great Job ! I like it ! Super !
GGinn 7 years ago
Great detailed design. I was wondering, having some vents at the top on the outside solar, do you think you could have the system work in reverse, an almost solar cooler in the summer. So as that as the solar heats up as standard, the natural convection is to flow out of the top outside while while creating a vacuum and sucking air from that house via the base inlets?
katabillups 8 years ago
WOWWWW! Thank YOU!!!! a million times!!!
nddell 12 years ago
I have had success with a design similar to this. I used black spray-painted aluminum sheets, polystyrene (i think) insulation, scrap 2x4's, and a ton of caulk. It was by no means perfect and some of the glass is even cracked, yet just after peak sunlight today (about 60 degrees in January, weird) it was pushing around 130 degrees consistently. I was surprised. It is a small unit, between 6 and 7 ft tall and 1 and 1/2 ft wide. I was expecting less, honestly.
My question is, then, how would it perform if the box was taller or wider and if it was perfectly sealed. Would either of these modifications make a large difference? I would like to build a non-prototype model of this for actual use, but was wondering if anyone would be able to assist me by answering these couple of questions.
Thanks
ND Dell.
robbtoberfest 12 years ago
Yes, more box area gathers more energy, so bigger box = more heat energy collected. Perfectly sealed helps with heat loss of the building itself, like leaving the window cracked open a bit; this hurts most on windy days.
Good luck Nddell