Stylish Coffee Capsules Holder
Intro: Stylish Coffee Capsules Holder
Make a stylish coffee capsules holder.
Today, looking for a present for my Mum, I saw, in a shop, a coffee capsule holder that would come very handy. But it was way too ugly...
Then I remembered some previous design, and having some acrylic and wood leftovers. So, this minimalist contemporary design was born.
This holder will be specific to one given kind of capsule.
Today, looking for a present for my Mum, I saw, in a shop, a coffee capsule holder that would come very handy. But it was way too ugly...
Then I remembered some previous design, and having some acrylic and wood leftovers. So, this minimalist contemporary design was born.
This holder will be specific to one given kind of capsule.
STEP 1: Needed Materials
- Acrylic plate, approx 38 x 6.5 cm, 2 mm thick
- Hard wood (e.g. beech) bar, approx 85 cm long, 1.5 x 1.5 cm thick
- 7 x M4 screws
- 6 x M5 nuts (as spacers)
STEP 2: Measure Capsule, and Cut Pieces to Size
Size
- Measure the capsule diameter under the lid, add two times the wood thickness, add 1/2 mm (so that the capsule will move freely), and you have the acrylic board width.
- For the length, take the lid diameter, multiply by ten.
- Think twice. The precision (especially for the width) is important.
- Use Masking tape to mark the cut. Carefully cut the acrylic board. Sand it. Or use a laser cutter if you are lucky enough!
- Cut wood to length.
- Cut the wooden triangle (which will serve as strut).
STEP 3: Make Holes
Mark holes positions onto acrylic board. Bore 4 mm ∅ holes.
With masking tape, tighten wood onto acrylic board.
Make 3.5 mm ∅ holes. Do not cross the wood!
Chamfer the holes with a 10 mm ∅ drill. Use caution, do not ruin your work.
With masking tape, tighten wood onto acrylic board.
Make 3.5 mm ∅ holes. Do not cross the wood!
Chamfer the holes with a 10 mm ∅ drill. Use caution, do not ruin your work.
STEP 4: Make Hole for the Strut
Mark strut hole positions onto acrylic board. Bore 4 mm ∅ hole.
Chamfer the hole with a 10 mm ∅ drill, on the board side that is the opposite to the other chamfers.
Align strut, and mark hole position. In the strut, bore a 3.5 mm ∅ hole.
Chamfer the hole with a 10 mm ∅ drill, on the board side that is the opposite to the other chamfers.
Align strut, and mark hole position. In the strut, bore a 3.5 mm ∅ hole.
STEP 5: Oil the Wood
This is optional but will give a nicer and more durable look.
Apply linseed oil. Wipe out excess oil.
Let dry. I know it's hard to wait, but linseed oil dries quite quickly.
Apply linseed oil. Wipe out excess oil.
Let dry. I know it's hard to wait, but linseed oil dries quite quickly.
STEP 6:
Remove protective film from the acrylic board.
Gently clean the board with soap and water if needed. Gently dry with a soft tissue.
Gently clean the board with soap and water if needed. Gently dry with a soft tissue.
STEP 7: Mount Everything. Done!
Mount everything.
Test with a capsule. If it does not move freely, then:
Test with a capsule. If it does not move freely, then:
- either your wood bars are too close. Try sanding their inner sides.
- Or the nuts (spacers) are not thick enough. Try adding small washers.
STEP 8: Enjoy the Finished Product!
Use it in steeper or flatter position (each side of the strut gives a different leaning angle).
For the next level, make a back-lit version glowing in the dark!
For the next level, make a back-lit version glowing in the dark!
19 Comments
iphone5Slover 10 years ago
cooldudeintown 10 years ago
spylock 10 years ago
clazman 10 years ago
Not sure 'bout the acrylic though. Hard to keep clean.
I'm thinking a dado in each piece of wood. Would require two more cross pieces.and a relief on one side of the dado.
Hmmm, maybe use a 1 inch dowel instead of the square cross section. A natural relief be cause of curve.
That's just my thought.
laxap 10 years ago
Before using acrylic I envisaged using my router, but it is not well suited for narrow laths.
The cross section shape is much a question of taste.
clazman 10 years ago
Yes, a router would not be a good thing unless one has a router table. A table saw is fine.
I have a cross slide vice for my bench drill press. That makes it relatively easy to perform over head routing. Only problem is that this 6 inch vise gobbles a lot of head room (4 - 5 inches) Better to have floor model in this case.
Happy New Year to you and yours!!
laxap 10 years ago
And Happy New Year to you and yours too!!!
clazman 10 years ago
Attached is a link to my short but sweet Instructable that describes my method to add that feature to a cross slide vise.
https://www.instructables.com/pdf/Create-zeroing-capability-for-cross-slide-vise/Create-zeroing-capability-for-cross-slide-vise.pdf
clazman 10 years ago
Yes, a router would not be a good thing unless one has a router table. A table saw is fine.
I have a cross slide vice for my bench drill press. That makes it relatively easy to perform over head routing.
Happy New Year!!
hammer9876 10 years ago
laxap 10 years ago
denverintranslation 10 years ago
laxap 10 years ago
abadfart 10 years ago
2noisy 10 years ago
Nespresso capsules holder on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R3.TR4.TRC1.A0.Xnespresso+ho&_nkw=nespresso+capsule+holder&_sacat=0&_from=R40
gmsmg 10 years ago
Jerry
pantalone 10 years ago
jessyratfink 10 years ago
laxap 10 years ago