Introduction: The Metal Man Card

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About: As I near 17, I've developed skills in metalworking, woodworking, block and brick laying, and homesteading. I hope to share my projects on Instructables to both help people with their projects and give ideas o…

My name is Jacob, and I turn 17 this month. I built this Instructable to help people in their sand-casting experience, and to give them some ideas on what to make first! I made the "MAN CARD" as a test for my first-time sandcasting. I wanted to test a part that I had designed from scratch with a cad modeling software and had used 3D printing in the process to make the pattern, so I made it just complex enough that it would test the quality of the foundry sand and also the skill of the maker. I also had to take into account other things involving the 3D printed part and mold setup, like putting angles on the cad model so that I could take it out of the sand easily. I was thrilled with the outcome!

Supplies

Consumables

Tools

  • A 3D Modeling software (like Fusion 360)
  • Sand rammer or tamping tool
  • Crucible (for melting aluminum)
  • Furnace or propane torch (for melting aluminum)
  • Crucible tongs
  • Safety gloves
  • Safety goggles
  • Heat-resistant surface or mold frame
  • Sandpaper (various grits)
  • Metal file
  • Buffing wheel (optional)
  • Spoon (optional)
  • Clothes hanger (optional)

Step 1: MAN CARD

Before we proceed, ensure you have a high-quality 3D model of the "Man Card" ready (see figure 1). With precision, and attention to detail, design the pattern in Fusion 360, or other, CAD Modeling program. Consider factors such as the draft angles, and parting lines for smooth casting. You could also download the file below; it is already set up to print.

Attachments

Step 2: 3D Print the Design

With the 3D model ready, it's time to create the pattern. 3D Print the "Man Card" using a high-resolution printer and a suitable filament, such as PLA or ABS (see figures 1,2, and 3). Make sure the printed pattern is clean, free of defects, and matches the design accurately. You may be content with just a plastic "Man Card", but a metal "Man Card" is far more manly looking.

Step 3: The Flask

Construct the flask – a container that holds the sand during molding (see figures 5 and 6). Use a two-part flask made of strong wood, or one made of metal. The drag forms the bottom part of the flask, and the cope forms the top. Make sure they fit together tightly and securely. You do have the option to buy a metal flask off of Ebay or Amazon, but making a wood one is cheaper. To make a wood flask, watch this video, it will go into greater detail, and help you make a better flask than the one I did. How To Make Metal Casting Sandboxes - King Of Random

Step 4: Starting the Mold

Position the 3D-Printed "Man Card" pattern onto the drag part of the flask , face up, and dust with baby powder (see figures 7,8, and 9). Now it's time to fill the flask with a special sand built for casting, known as "Casting Sand". If you do not want to buy some, then watch this video on how to make your own, affordably, Metal Casting Play Sand - TKOR Shows You How To Make Green Sand. Fill the drag and pack the sand firmly around the "Man Card" pattern (see figures 10 and 11). Use a strike off bar to remove any extra casting sand, the strike off bar is a piece of wood, or something with a flat edge (see figure 12).

Step 5: Setting Up for the Cope

Flip the drag (see figure 13) and apply more baby powder on top (see figures 14,15, and16).

Step 6: Adding the Cope

Now put the cope on top of the drag and fill it with sand, packing the sand in firmly, and removing any surplus sand (see figures 17 through 22). Then take the cope off the drag in an upwards motion, flip it gently, and set it down.

Step 7: Sprue, Riser, and Vents

Next, design the sprue – this is a channel that allows molten metal to flow into the mold (see figures 23,24, and 25). Add a sprue cup to the cope part of the flask, making sure that the sprue is large, because you will pour the metal into it. Additionally, add a riser – which is a small reservoir that supplies additional molten metal to compensate for shrinkage during cooling (see figures 26, and 27). And finally, add some vents which will help the metal fill the corners and other hard-to-reach areas. This can be done as easily as poking some holes with a clothes hanger (see figures 28 and 29).

Step 8: Pulling the Pattern

Pull the plastic "Man Card", (also known as the pattern), gently out of the mold by tapping softly on its edges (see figures 30,31, and 32), and gently pulling it out (see figures 33 and 34).

Step 9: The Choke Setup, a Very Important Step

Now for the choke. The choke captures any loose sand that could get into the "Man Card," which would ruin its appearance. Experience has shown it will come out much better with the choke! Mark the location of where the choke should go (see figures 35 and 36), then use a spoon to easily scoop out the dirt in the location marked with the clothes hanger (see figures 37 and 38).

Step 10: Putting It Together One Last Time

Finally, it's time to clean both halves and put them together. Put the drag mold up, place the cope on the drag as gently as possible. Any sand that gets knocked loose will lower the quality of the casting. The mold should now resemble figures 39 and 40. Now you are almost ready to pour.

Step 11: Melting the Metal and Final Setup for the Pour

Put all the items you need in a safe area for the pouring. You will melt the metal and then put it straight into the mold. Do this in a sandpit, because the metal can react with water trapped in concrete and damage the concrete. Now you have to melt the metal before pouring (see figures 41 and 42). Aluminum melts at 1220 degrees Fahrenheit, that's 660.32 degrees Celsius. Make sure you have enough molten metal to entirely fill the mold and some extra. Have somewhere to dump the leftover metal, if left in the crucible, it can ruin it!

Step 12: Pouring the Metal

After the metal is entirely melted, skim the dross and poor the metal (see figures 43 through 46). Pour consistently without stopping. Stoping can damage the part. When the metal starts coming out the sprue and/or riser, it is full (see figure 47). Don't forget to put the leftover metal somewhere.

Step 13: Demolding

Taking every precaution that the metal has entirely cooled, break the casting out of the flask. Take the metal "Man Card" (see figure 48) and clean off the excess metal pieces with a file, or any tool that you think is best for the job. If you decide to polish it, then be careful not to buff the words off. I left a lot of the texture in my Man card because the rough look was consistent with the manliness of the build.

Step 14: Feasting Your Eyes on the "MAN CARD"

Feast your eyes on the legendary "Man Card" (see figure 49) – the ultimate macho masterpiece! It's like a passport to manliness, granting access to the exclusive club of extraordinary dudes. With this card in your wallet, you'll feel like a superhero ready to conquer everyday challenges with a flex and a grin. So, step aside, average cards, because "The Man Card" is here to save the day – and leave a trail of envy among your friends who don't possess this legendary passport to manliness!


Thank you for reading through, and perhaps building, my Instructable. I hope you enjoyed both the knowledge bestowed, and the witty commentary given. If you have any comments or ideas to improve this build, please leave a comment below.


Note: I did add a piece of metal so that the "Man Card" could hang around my neck, but my dad and I agreed that it looked better without this addition.

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