Tincloth

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Intro: Tincloth

Turning an Instructables apron into an Indestructible apron:Water-proof, flame resistant and easy-clean. Could be it turns a knife too!

Ever wonder why some canvas, like the stuff that a Carhart jacket is made of, is so much tougher than, say, a drop cloth?  The secret is 'tincloth,' invented in some year by some guy --probably an American-- who needed something tougher than canvas or denim-- tough enough for fighting dragosaurs with a claw hammer on horseback across the Great Plains. Tincloth is that kind of tough stuff.

To demonstrate the wonder of tincloth I took a shower in my clothes and tried to set myself on fire.  Allow me to explain...




STEP 1: A Simple Recipe

Tincloth is made by coating canvas in oils that dry and harden, namely beeswax and boiled linseed oil. To demonstrate this simple process I will be coating my Instructables apron. The reason I made gallons of the tincloth mixture is that I am also coating a 20'X24' canvas tent that I sewed for winter camping. I only used about a cup and a half for the apron.

Equal parts:
beeswax (I used toilet gasket rings for this. Done dirt cheap.)
boiled linseed oil

(Optionally you can add turpentine. I saw it referenced in a few places while I was doing my research. I opted against using it since it seemed to increase drying time.)

Melt and mix the beeswax and the linseed oil.  It doesn't have to reach a certain temp, just hot enough to ensure complete combination.


STEP 2: Application

Paint it on. It is really easy to see when it is properly saturated. You will know when you've put on enough. I had to coat both sides of the pocket areas to achieve penetration.

Make sure the solution is brushed on evenly, give it a quick inspection and then hang it up to dry.
The drying should take two days-ish, depending on conditions.

So how did it fare when I put it through it's paces?

STEP 3: Hey, Let's Take a Shower, Robot!

As you can see, the water beaded up immediately and stayed beaded until it evaporated. Zero penetration.

As far as the flame resistance goes I figured that if I held the blowtorch up to the tincloth while I was wearing it and kept it there until I couldn't stand it anymore that would pretty much simulate the worst possible kitchen flame. I did just that about 10 times until it raised my pink. I'm not always the smartest guy in the room, especially when I'm alone, which I frequently am.

The torch left zero marks on the tincloth and even left the Robot unscathed! This exceeded my expectations.

But the real test had to be chocolate. I quickly scoochmarooed a 5 minute mug cake with pecans and semi-sweet chocolate (ah Sarah, how do I love thy i'bles) and dumped some on the tincloth. I let it sit long enough to take some photos and eat my cake. Then I just wiped it away and it looks like it was never there. Indestructable!

275 Comments

Does this work with Polyester fabrics?
I believe it would sort of float on polyester and not really penetrate. But it would stiffen up on synthetic fabrics as much as it would on any other.
Cheers
DDC

Hi, I am wanting to purchase a cotton canvas yurt, to have up and be in always, everyday. Itll be over a few thousand dollar investment, so am wanting it to be mold,moldew, sun, fire resistant, and last a while etc. they sell it treated with Sunforger, which i think is silicone-based, but i dont like that it is synthetic/chemical. is this a natural mixture that is just as effective? thank you

I'm sure you've figured it out by now, but for anyone else, I use 4 parts linseed oil, 2 parts bees wax, 1 part pine tar. The linseed alone seems to mildew, but the wax and the pine seem to be antimicrobial. Pine tar may increase your curing time, but it smells nice while it does. It may add extra rigidity in the end. Pine tar alone cures like glass. The linseed will keep it from being brittle.

Hello I own a small bussiness that builds custom wall tents and we have built a yurt before. I was actually reading this artilce to find a way to waterproof some teepees we are making. We would love to build that yurt for you check us out at.

www.advancedtarps.com

Could you substitute soy candle wax for beeswax?
Is it necessary or preferable to prewash canvas before waxing?
Yes the canvas should be thoroughly cleaned before applying any wax otherwise it will look dirty and the wax will lock in the dirt resulting in a very scruffy looking cloth.
Does this work on suede leather,silk and rawhide? Its for a shield.

Should work. I saturate new cheap leather working gloves with linseed oil to make and meep them flexible. Does the trick, and once dry it is not sticky. Applied hot, and brushed in while heating area with a hairdryer or heatgun, the wax/oil combo should penetrate, though oil alone may be sufficient for your purpose.

Don't use wax and oil on suede though. For suede just use pure wax. Rub a candle on it and then use a hairdryer and the wax should melt completely into the suede and dissapper. Then when it is cool brush it with a suede brush to raise the nap and get back the suede look. It should then be very water resistant but still look like proper suede leather. A wax/oil mixture will ruin suede as it will cause the fibres to mat. For suede an ordinary paraffin wax candle is the best. And only use one coat as two coats will ruin the suede look.
With suede you have to be careful and it is easily damaged. You can waterproof suede leather by rubbing a candle on it until it turns white. Then use a hairdryer to melt it into the leather. You will have to go over it a few times so that the wax soak completely into the leather and leaves it still looking like suede. Use only one coat of wax or else you will ruin the suede look. And use only wax do not mix it will oil or it will cause the suede to mat. Then when it has cooled brush it with a suede brush to raise the nap. It should look the same but now be waterproof.
How much of a batch can cover a surface? Like how much will of gallon cover in square feet?

Also if adding turpinetine what is the ratio?

Most wax toilet rings in the USA are made of "slack wax", a by-product of the petroleum refining industry. It is basically a
mixture of oil and paraffin wax. It is used as a waterproofing agent in various industrial products. It melts at low temperature but stiffens/hardens quickly when applied to fabric or leather. I made my own waterproofing material by melting a toilet ring with 1/2 as much coconut oil. While still liquid I prushed it on my new leather boots where it immediately turned into a stiff paste and did not soak in. So I heat the wax-covered boots with a hair dryer and the wax/oil mix quickly melted into the leather ... and now I have waterproof boots.

After all, what's the risk of self-igniting while drying?

I'd like to do a "hay pillowbag", thought this could be useful to keep it clean even in the stall floor... But room temperature here can reach 40C (more than 100F).

(besides, I hope the smell will be accepted, and I don't think it will intoxicate the hay. Will it?)

Anyway, my main concern is it may ignite while it dries. Later I see if it serves the haybag.

There is no odor after drying.

Linseed oil on a layer of cloth wont ignite. It is when crumpled up as in a trash bin that heat can build up. If you lay it out to dry it will be fine. After the vapors are off the oil the chance of self ignition is minimal.

Oh, and thank you!

I would also love to try a medieval-style waterproof raincloak, if the stiffness alows for it :D

Hi !! I tried but the thngs r not working...N dont knw wht should b the ratio of oil n wax ....can u pls help..
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