Introduction: Toy / Play Kitchen
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About: I am a EHS advisor by day and by night I make and fix things. I prefer to work with wood but will give anything a go. I also enjoy gardening and an kept busy by my young son..
My son loves to play at cooking and currently uses an up turned box and wooden kitchens are expensive to buy. I have a shed full of tools and wood and so this instructable was born. I built to kitchens at the same time one for a friend I have tried to keep all the build images used applicable to just one of them.
NOTE:
I have made this out of mostly stuff I had in my woodpile, therefore some sizes may be a little strange, If I was going out to buy new material the dimensions would probably be different for efficient use of sheets/lumbar sizes.
PLEASE:
Rate my instructable.
It is being entered into the Make it Stick it contest, if you think it deserves a vote Thanks :)
NOTE:
I have made this out of mostly stuff I had in my woodpile, therefore some sizes may be a little strange, If I was going out to buy new material the dimensions would probably be different for efficient use of sheets/lumbar sizes.
PLEASE:
Rate my instructable.
It is being entered into the Make it Stick it contest, if you think it deserves a vote Thanks :)
Step 1: Tools and Materials
Tools:
Listed below are the tools I used, I am lucky enough to have a shed full so tried to use them all (this is not totally necessary!).
Drill/Driver x 1 is good x2-3 saves time swapping bits
Chop saw (hand saw will work just takes longer)
Jigsaw
Router (you could sand the edges round)
Dowel Jig (you can just measure and mark up)
Wood turning lathe
Bench Sander
Bandsaw
Pillar Dill
Powerfile
Mouse Sander
Paint Brush and Roller
Materials
The main carcass is made from 18mm MDF (some old shelving I had)
Work top is made from plywood
Cupboard, oven shelf oven doors are 12mm MDF
Small piece of perspex for oven door
25mm and 18mm mdf for knobs
46mm dowel for tap body
Scrap for tap spout
70mm x 15mm lumbar for top of carcass and splash back framing
Hardboard for back and splashback
Paint
Hinges
Handles
Glue (wood glue, super glue and Epoxy)
Container for sink
Screw and Nails
Listed below are the tools I used, I am lucky enough to have a shed full so tried to use them all (this is not totally necessary!).
Drill/Driver x 1 is good x2-3 saves time swapping bits
Chop saw (hand saw will work just takes longer)
Jigsaw
Router (you could sand the edges round)
Dowel Jig (you can just measure and mark up)
Wood turning lathe
Bench Sander
Bandsaw
Pillar Dill
Powerfile
Mouse Sander
Paint Brush and Roller
Materials
The main carcass is made from 18mm MDF (some old shelving I had)
Work top is made from plywood
Cupboard, oven shelf oven doors are 12mm MDF
Small piece of perspex for oven door
25mm and 18mm mdf for knobs
46mm dowel for tap body
Scrap for tap spout
70mm x 15mm lumbar for top of carcass and splash back framing
Hardboard for back and splashback
Paint
Hinges
Handles
Glue (wood glue, super glue and Epoxy)
Container for sink
Screw and Nails
Step 2: The Carcass
Cut all your wood to size, listed below in mm with location marked on picture.
1- 2x sides 230 x 500
2- 1x centre 230 x 445
3- 1x shelf 230 x 230
4- 1x bottom of oven 230 x 248
5- 2x support bars 150 x 10 x 10
6- 1x base 230 x 510
7- 1x back 5mm hardboard 546 x 500
8- 1x oven shelf 170 x 244
9- 1x oven support 70 x 248
10- 2x 70mm x 15mm x 510 top support bars
All joins were pilot holed, countersunk, screwed and wood glued together.
Cut hardboard back and nail on (sink nail heads with a punch).
Offer up your sink, I have used a 1.5L food storage container, mark and cut out with jigsaw
Install oven shelf supports.
Sand all edges to a slight round (no sharp corners for play equipment)
Prime and then paint.
Reinstall the sink.
NOTE:
As the MDF I was using was reclaimed and already sealed I could prime it straight away. When using new MDF make a mix of 50/50 Water and PVA glue and paint on the edges to seal.
1- 2x sides 230 x 500
2- 1x centre 230 x 445
3- 1x shelf 230 x 230
4- 1x bottom of oven 230 x 248
5- 2x support bars 150 x 10 x 10
6- 1x base 230 x 510
7- 1x back 5mm hardboard 546 x 500
8- 1x oven shelf 170 x 244
9- 1x oven support 70 x 248
10- 2x 70mm x 15mm x 510 top support bars
All joins were pilot holed, countersunk, screwed and wood glued together.
Cut hardboard back and nail on (sink nail heads with a punch).
Offer up your sink, I have used a 1.5L food storage container, mark and cut out with jigsaw
Install oven shelf supports.
Sand all edges to a slight round (no sharp corners for play equipment)
Prime and then paint.
Reinstall the sink.
NOTE:
As the MDF I was using was reclaimed and already sealed I could prime it straight away. When using new MDF make a mix of 50/50 Water and PVA glue and paint on the edges to seal.
Step 3: Worktop
The worktop was made out of 15mm plywood. Cut to 550mm x 385mm. I then used a round object (bucket pictured) to mark the round corners then cut out with a jigsaw.Then by putting the top on the base I could mark the location of the sink on the underneath. I then marked 15mm inside this mark to make the cut out,. Start by drilling a 10mm hole in each corner then using a jigsaw to cut between. I then routed around the top and the sink opening with a round over bit.Then everything was sanded smooth.
The worktop then had its hot plates painted on and two coats of varnish applied.
The worktop is fixed to the carcass by screwing from underneath
The worktop then had its hot plates painted on and two coats of varnish applied.
The worktop is fixed to the carcass by screwing from underneath
Step 4: Doors
Cupboard
12mm MDF cut to size ( 265mm x 320mm)and then use router with round over bit all the way around.
Sanded, sealed, prime and paint
Hinges both glued (super glue) and screwed on
Knob and magnetic catch are then fitted
Oven
12mm MDF cut to size 273mm x 300mm, window marked giving a 50mm border and cut out with jigsaw. Then use a router with round over bit on all edges.
Then change to a straight cut bit and route a lip for the perspex to fix too.
The easy way of doing this is to clamp a straight edge onto your bench then offer up your door to that. (hopefully the picture will show this)
Sanded, sealed, prime and paint
Install perspex with super glue
Hinges both glued (super glue) and screwed on (I choose to have a side opening door to prevent the door coming open and landing on children's toes)
Handle and magnetic catch are then fitted
12mm MDF cut to size ( 265mm x 320mm)and then use router with round over bit all the way around.
Sanded, sealed, prime and paint
Hinges both glued (super glue) and screwed on
Knob and magnetic catch are then fitted
Oven
12mm MDF cut to size 273mm x 300mm, window marked giving a 50mm border and cut out with jigsaw. Then use a router with round over bit on all edges.
Then change to a straight cut bit and route a lip for the perspex to fix too.
The easy way of doing this is to clamp a straight edge onto your bench then offer up your door to that. (hopefully the picture will show this)
Sanded, sealed, prime and paint
Install perspex with super glue
Hinges both glued (super glue) and screwed on (I choose to have a side opening door to prevent the door coming open and landing on children's toes)
Handle and magnetic catch are then fitted
Step 5: Knobs
The knobs for the hotplate and oven controls are made from MDF. I wood glued a piece of 18mm and 25mm MDF together clamped and let set overnight.
My knobs were then drilled through the centre with a 6mm wood bit. I then used a 58mm hole saw to start the cut. (my original intention was to drill them completly but this did not work). I then took the part drilled blocks and rough cut them out on the bandsaw. The tops were then divided into three and the two sides cut off down to the glue join.
NOTE: It would have been a lot easy to do this when the blocks were square.
The knobs were then mounted onto the screw chuck on the wood lathe and the bases were trued and the top section formed.
The finished knobs were then sanded, sealed 50/50, sanded, primed and painted.
Mounting:
To fix the knobs to the worktop and enable them to turn. M5 bolts and penny washers were epoxied to the knobs. M6 T-Nuts were fitted into the worktop. You then need to drill out the internal threads of the T-Nuts. The knobs are then passed through and a washer and nut put on the end.
Note:
Some form of lubrication needs to be applied to the penny washer for free movement, I used candle wax.
My knobs were then drilled through the centre with a 6mm wood bit. I then used a 58mm hole saw to start the cut. (my original intention was to drill them completly but this did not work). I then took the part drilled blocks and rough cut them out on the bandsaw. The tops were then divided into three and the two sides cut off down to the glue join.
NOTE: It would have been a lot easy to do this when the blocks were square.
The knobs were then mounted onto the screw chuck on the wood lathe and the bases were trued and the top section formed.
The finished knobs were then sanded, sealed 50/50, sanded, primed and painted.
Mounting:
To fix the knobs to the worktop and enable them to turn. M5 bolts and penny washers were epoxied to the knobs. M6 T-Nuts were fitted into the worktop. You then need to drill out the internal threads of the T-Nuts. The knobs are then passed through and a washer and nut put on the end.
Note:
Some form of lubrication needs to be applied to the penny washer for free movement, I used candle wax.
Step 6: Tap
The tap was made from a section of 46mm dowel with a 18mm section of 25mm x 80mm cut at 15o both ends dowelled and glued to the side. To fit the square section to the dowel you either need to put a concave grove on the square or a flat on the dowel. I tried concave first with a drum sander in my pillar drill it was OK but power-filing the flat on the 46mm dowel was quicker easier and neater. The dome top was then cut off 10mm from the top. The two parts were then sanded, primed and painted.
The tap mechanism is a M5 bolt and penny washer epoxied in to the top of the tap., this then has a spring put on and is passed through a drilled out M6 T-Nut mounted in the base and M5 nut fitted on the end screwed up to just enough to tension the spring.
The fit the T-nut in the base of the tap a 9mm hole was drilled for the T-Nut and then you need to drill up from the bottom a 12mm hole (size of socket) so I could get the nut on the end of the bolt.
The tap is fixed to the worktop by screws from beneath.
The tap mechanism is a M5 bolt and penny washer epoxied in to the top of the tap., this then has a spring put on and is passed through a drilled out M6 T-Nut mounted in the base and M5 nut fitted on the end screwed up to just enough to tension the spring.
The fit the T-nut in the base of the tap a 9mm hole was drilled for the T-Nut and then you need to drill up from the bottom a 12mm hole (size of socket) so I could get the nut on the end of the bolt.
The tap is fixed to the worktop by screws from beneath.
Attachments
Step 7: Splash Back
The splash back is made from a sheet of 5mm hardboard 550mm x 400mm with groves routered to make it look like tough and grove. To cut the groves you need a v cut bit in your router and a straight edge . By placing the board on your bench then clamping a straight edge to it you can then cut you first glove. Then clamp you edge on the first grove and cut the next. This gives even spacing with no measuring required. Once all the groves are done prime and paint.
Then cut four lengths of 70mm x 15mm lumbar to 2x 400mm (sides), 1x 410mm (sign) and 1x 550mm (shelf). The hardboard should have a lip left at the bottom once framed. The framing lumbar was drilled, dowelled and glued together before being fixed to the hardboard. The shelf has its ends rounded for safety. For additional support under the shelf I fitted some decorative legs. These were cut from some old stair spindles. The shelf is screwed from behind as are the decorative legs.
Once built the personalised sign was added. I printed the sign on the computer, scribbled over the back with a soft pencil and then drew over the letters to transfer it to the wood. It was then painted in, edged with black marker and highlighted with silver marker.
The splash back was then given two coats of varnish.
To fix to the worktop drill, countersink, screw and glue into the uprights and the decorative legs from below. Then tack the overhang lip into the worktop.
Then cut four lengths of 70mm x 15mm lumbar to 2x 400mm (sides), 1x 410mm (sign) and 1x 550mm (shelf). The hardboard should have a lip left at the bottom once framed. The framing lumbar was drilled, dowelled and glued together before being fixed to the hardboard. The shelf has its ends rounded for safety. For additional support under the shelf I fitted some decorative legs. These were cut from some old stair spindles. The shelf is screwed from behind as are the decorative legs.
Once built the personalised sign was added. I printed the sign on the computer, scribbled over the back with a soft pencil and then drew over the letters to transfer it to the wood. It was then painted in, edged with black marker and highlighted with silver marker.
The splash back was then given two coats of varnish.
To fix to the worktop drill, countersink, screw and glue into the uprights and the decorative legs from below. Then tack the overhang lip into the worktop.
Step 8: Finished
