Trash-o-caster
Intro: Trash-o-caster
During a recent storm, this abused electric guitar was found on the curb, buried in snow. Minus all the electrics except the jack, I resolved to bring it back from the brink. I've always wanted a 'Strat,' or something similar. That sweet single-coil sound is something a 'Gibson man' can't get. But a Peavey 'Predator' will come close...
NOTE: There's a video on the last page, showin' the results...
Disclaimer:
By following this guide you will refurbish a junk instrument into something decent. But some choices (type of paint, etc.) are NOT choices a professional would make. I.E., don't use these techniques on a vintage collectors instrument.
'Strat' and 'Stratocaster' are trademarks of Fender. This Peavey is 'Strat-like,' although both Peavey and Fender might be insulted by the reference.
This newer video was added, as the one on the last page was recorded before the guitar was tweaked. This is clean (no F/X), through my little Kay tube amp...
Before & After pix:
NOTE: There's a video on the last page, showin' the results...
Disclaimer:
By following this guide you will refurbish a junk instrument into something decent. But some choices (type of paint, etc.) are NOT choices a professional would make. I.E., don't use these techniques on a vintage collectors instrument.
'Strat' and 'Stratocaster' are trademarks of Fender. This Peavey is 'Strat-like,' although both Peavey and Fender might be insulted by the reference.
This newer video was added, as the one on the last page was recorded before the guitar was tweaked. This is clean (no F/X), through my little Kay tube amp...
Before & After pix:
STEP 1: First, Is It Worth Fixing?
Ask other musicians, check online:
Do people like the 'Predator?' General consensus is: Yes! Although definitely a 'starter' guitar, the 'playability' is high. (Ignore any 'psycho-audiotronics': when we hear something different if the name on the guitar changes...)
Other questions the modder should ask:
Is it modular? Can the neck, etc be removed easily?
One positive:
Despite the current fashion of locking tuners, the tuning machines on this guitar are solid, quality equipment.:
Do people like the 'Predator?' General consensus is: Yes! Although definitely a 'starter' guitar, the 'playability' is high. (Ignore any 'psycho-audiotronics': when we hear something different if the name on the guitar changes...)
Other questions the modder should ask:
Is it modular? Can the neck, etc be removed easily?
One positive:
Despite the current fashion of locking tuners, the tuning machines on this guitar are solid, quality equipment.:
STEP 2: Second, Can It Be Fixed? (And by a Amateur?)
After scoping it out, here are the problem areas--
-- Bad finish/paint (was partially restored by previous owner)
-- Pickguard missing
-- No electrics--needs pickups, pots, switches, wiring, etc.
-- Missing string guide on peg head
-- back cover (over tremolo springs) missing
All this is 'doable'--but is it worth it? Abandoned, but still with a full set of strings! So tune it and see how it plays--is the neck straight, action playable? Kinda, but...
On further examination:
-- Bridge pivot studs have cracked the body in two places--no wonder it won't stay in tune.
No idea how this was damaged, unless the pole pivots/studs were replaced at some point. The bridge itself fits perfectly in the routed cavity, and appears stock.
This is fixable, too! (Of course, each discarded instrument will have unique problems--give each a honest assessment before beginning the project.)
-- Bad finish/paint (was partially restored by previous owner)
-- Pickguard missing
-- No electrics--needs pickups, pots, switches, wiring, etc.
-- Missing string guide on peg head
-- back cover (over tremolo springs) missing
All this is 'doable'--but is it worth it? Abandoned, but still with a full set of strings! So tune it and see how it plays--is the neck straight, action playable? Kinda, but...
On further examination:
-- Bridge pivot studs have cracked the body in two places--no wonder it won't stay in tune.
No idea how this was damaged, unless the pole pivots/studs were replaced at some point. The bridge itself fits perfectly in the routed cavity, and appears stock.
This is fixable, too! (Of course, each discarded instrument will have unique problems--give each a honest assessment before beginning the project.)
STEP 3: Equipment Needed; Parts & Supplies
--Equipment
Power sander (vibrating will do)
files
Hi-speed rototool (Dremel)
clamps
soldering iron & solder, etc
Misc screwdrivers
Drill & bits
--Parts/Supplies
New string guide
New tremolo springs
New jack
New Electrics--
Ebay to the rescue--purchased an entire pickguard/pickup assembly with all the switches, pots and wiring (cheap!):
Power sander (vibrating will do)
files
Hi-speed rototool (Dremel)
clamps
soldering iron & solder, etc
Misc screwdrivers
Drill & bits
--Parts/Supplies
New string guide
New tremolo springs
New jack
New Electrics--
Ebay to the rescue--purchased an entire pickguard/pickup assembly with all the switches, pots and wiring (cheap!):
STEP 4: More Supplies
Epoxy (I used 'West System,' any will do)
Paint, clearcoat (acrylic)
Sandpaper (both regular 100-320 and wet/dry 400-1000 grit)
rubbing compound
Spray-mount glue (Duro, Elmers, 3M)
Rubber cement
Foil (heavy-duty aluminum or copper)
Guitar polish
Paint, clearcoat (acrylic)
Sandpaper (both regular 100-320 and wet/dry 400-1000 grit)
rubbing compound
Spray-mount glue (Duro, Elmers, 3M)
Rubber cement
Foil (heavy-duty aluminum or copper)
Guitar polish
STEP 5: Repair the Body @ the Bridge
Without this step the guitar will never stay in tune, the bridge will constantly 'sag' toward the nut.
1) Remove the studs
2) Prep the wood by roughening, and drilling holes so the epoxy can fully saturate the crack.
3) Apply epoxy, clamp with bar clamp.
After allowing two full days for the epoxy to harden, file smooth for fit (rat-tail file.) Now pound in the studs for a friction-fit.
1) Remove the studs
2) Prep the wood by roughening, and drilling holes so the epoxy can fully saturate the crack.
3) Apply epoxy, clamp with bar clamp.
After allowing two full days for the epoxy to harden, file smooth for fit (rat-tail file.) Now pound in the studs for a friction-fit.
STEP 6: Reshape the Pickguard
This 'strat' shape won't fit on a Peavey, so the pickguard needed shaping with a hi-speed grinding tool. I used a Dremel tool for the job.
Most of the pickguard mounting holes (in the body) needed filling. I used bamboo skewers, fixed with wood glue. When dry, sand flush to body.
The new holes in the pickguard itself were made by first drilling a pilot hole of the correct diameter, then creating the conical shape with a counter-sinking bit. Do the drilling by hand--it's less likely to damage the instrument.
Most of the pickguard mounting holes (in the body) needed filling. I used bamboo skewers, fixed with wood glue. When dry, sand flush to body.
The new holes in the pickguard itself were made by first drilling a pilot hole of the correct diameter, then creating the conical shape with a counter-sinking bit. Do the drilling by hand--it's less likely to damage the instrument.
STEP 7: Dismantle Guitar for Painting
The guitar had been partially refinished. Most, but not all the finish was sanded off. It had been sealed, at least twice (on the second coat the bridge & jack plate had been left on!) The 'blonde' finish is nice, but the laminates had been sanded through in several places, so the effect was not ideal. Better to repaint.
All hardware, neck, etc. must be removed before painting.
The 'refinishing' done by previous owner:
(new pickguard in place for fitting/testing)
All hardware, neck, etc. must be removed before painting.
The 'refinishing' done by previous owner:
(new pickguard in place for fitting/testing)
STEP 8: Painting Prep
Shaping
Due to defects in the previous finish, parts of the guitar needed shaping and smoothing. A combination of sander, sandpapering by hand and filing did the trick.
Initial sanding
At this point a sanding sealer should be used. Since the guitar had been clear-polyurethaned at least twice, I skipped this. Pits and dings can be filled with a wood filler.
Use progressively finer grades of sandpaper, up to 400 grit for the sanding stage. A vibrating or orbital sander is handy.
Due to defects in the previous finish, parts of the guitar needed shaping and smoothing. A combination of sander, sandpapering by hand and filing did the trick.
Initial sanding
At this point a sanding sealer should be used. Since the guitar had been clear-polyurethaned at least twice, I skipped this. Pits and dings can be filled with a wood filler.
Use progressively finer grades of sandpaper, up to 400 grit for the sanding stage. A vibrating or orbital sander is handy.
STEP 9: Painting
Volumes could be written regarding painting guitars (and have been written.) We'll keep it simple.
Use a mask when painting, especially indoors.
Painting
For my needs, a fast-drying acrylic from a spray can works fine. If this were a $10000 collector's item, then a compressor/gun/lacquer would be a must.
--First, hang the body from the hole drilled within the neck mounting section (that's why it's there.) Make sure the body is clean and free of dust.
--Spray successive coats of color, following the instructions for drying time between coats. Wet sand once some density is built-up. 4 or 5 coats should be enough.
--Follow the color with a couple coats of clear.
Finish sanding
When working at this stage, always lay the body on a few layers of cloth--old towels work well. It helps keep the work stationary, and prevents scratching the underside.
--Now wet sand, starting with 400 grit up through at least 800 grit paper. Wipe often with a clean damp rag and check your progress. Be especially careful on edges and corners, as it's easy to sand through the paint.
--If you do sand through, it's necessary to touch up the error by hand, wet sand, apply clear and sand again. But that's lots of extra time/work. Try a light touch on edges!
Rubbing out
Use a rubbing compound to restore the gloss which the wet sanding has dulled. There are many types, I used an automotive compound. 'Crest' toothpaste can be used as a finish compound.
Use a mask when painting, especially indoors.
Painting
For my needs, a fast-drying acrylic from a spray can works fine. If this were a $10000 collector's item, then a compressor/gun/lacquer would be a must.
--First, hang the body from the hole drilled within the neck mounting section (that's why it's there.) Make sure the body is clean and free of dust.
--Spray successive coats of color, following the instructions for drying time between coats. Wet sand once some density is built-up. 4 or 5 coats should be enough.
--Follow the color with a couple coats of clear.
Finish sanding
When working at this stage, always lay the body on a few layers of cloth--old towels work well. It helps keep the work stationary, and prevents scratching the underside.
--Now wet sand, starting with 400 grit up through at least 800 grit paper. Wipe often with a clean damp rag and check your progress. Be especially careful on edges and corners, as it's easy to sand through the paint.
--If you do sand through, it's necessary to touch up the error by hand, wet sand, apply clear and sand again. But that's lots of extra time/work. Try a light touch on edges!
Rubbing out
Use a rubbing compound to restore the gloss which the wet sanding has dulled. There are many types, I used an automotive compound. 'Crest' toothpaste can be used as a finish compound.
STEP 10: About Pickups
The 'new' pickguard came fully loaded with three pickups--but not really good ones.
No matter. If the guitar sounds halfway-decent and plays well, the pickups can always be upgraded. (Cheap pickups usually sound a bit thinner, with more treble. Well, since that's quite different from my Gibson, it's cool with me. If you're a veteran de-'Fender' then you might hate the sound.)
To quickly compare good vs. not-so-good single-coil pickups:
Better pickups generally have more coil winds, which result in more power and a somewhat mellower sound. Most use cylindrical Alnico magnets as posts.
Cheaper pickups have fewer winds, and have a thinner and somewhat more harsh tone. But there is more treble from the skimpier coil. A pair of cheaper (but strong) ceramic bar magnets are used to magnetize the steel posts. (not all pickups with the ceramic bar pair are cheap, however.)
Whatever--if you don't change strings every three weeks you probably can't tell the difference...once you filter and amplify.
I had one 'vintage' single-coil from the mid 70's, and tried it in the guitar. Unfortunately the impedances weren't well-matched for the phasing mix, so I reverted back to to the newer pickup.
No matter. If the guitar sounds halfway-decent and plays well, the pickups can always be upgraded. (Cheap pickups usually sound a bit thinner, with more treble. Well, since that's quite different from my Gibson, it's cool with me. If you're a veteran de-'Fender' then you might hate the sound.)
To quickly compare good vs. not-so-good single-coil pickups:
Better pickups generally have more coil winds, which result in more power and a somewhat mellower sound. Most use cylindrical Alnico magnets as posts.
Cheaper pickups have fewer winds, and have a thinner and somewhat more harsh tone. But there is more treble from the skimpier coil. A pair of cheaper (but strong) ceramic bar magnets are used to magnetize the steel posts. (not all pickups with the ceramic bar pair are cheap, however.)
Whatever--if you don't change strings every three weeks you probably can't tell the difference...once you filter and amplify.
I had one 'vintage' single-coil from the mid 70's, and tried it in the guitar. Unfortunately the impedances weren't well-matched for the phasing mix, so I reverted back to to the newer pickup.
STEP 11: Shielding and Wiring
Most guitars, especially those with single-coil pickups need additional shielding to prevent noise & hum. Factory shielding just doesn't cut it.
Shielding Basics
--Remove the existing wiring, knobs, etc. Be sure to save all the parts.
--Cover the backside of the pickguard with foil. Use spray-mount glue, and heavy-duty aluminum or copper foil.
--Same with the routed cavities of the guitar body. Spray-mount could work here, but rubber cement is easier to control. The bridge/string ground can be attached directly to the foil with a screw--so it won't need to be desoldered every time the pickguard is removed.
--Separate the shield ground from the main ground. Connect to main ground at only one point (to remove any ground loops.)
Here's a great link describing shielding in detail: www.guitarnuts.com . This includes wiring for standard 'Strat' 3-pickup setup, and was my reference. Be sure to pay special attention to the sections on electric shock!
Wiring
Take several photos of the existing wiring BEFORE beginning. If you screw it up, you can always start from scratch.
One tip: once the wiring is done, tidy up the jumble with those little plastic zipties. Not only makes it less confusing, but seems to help the noise ratio (maybe my imagination; or could it work like a 'twisted pair' cable?)
Every guitar has a different wiring schema, so best not go into detail on actual connections. Here are a couple links with wiring options:
Acme Guitar Works
Craig's Guitartech Wiring
GuitarElectronics Strat diagrams
Shielding Basics
--Remove the existing wiring, knobs, etc. Be sure to save all the parts.
--Cover the backside of the pickguard with foil. Use spray-mount glue, and heavy-duty aluminum or copper foil.
--Same with the routed cavities of the guitar body. Spray-mount could work here, but rubber cement is easier to control. The bridge/string ground can be attached directly to the foil with a screw--so it won't need to be desoldered every time the pickguard is removed.
--Separate the shield ground from the main ground. Connect to main ground at only one point (to remove any ground loops.)
Here's a great link describing shielding in detail: www.guitarnuts.com . This includes wiring for standard 'Strat' 3-pickup setup, and was my reference. Be sure to pay special attention to the sections on electric shock!
Wiring
Take several photos of the existing wiring BEFORE beginning. If you screw it up, you can always start from scratch.
One tip: once the wiring is done, tidy up the jumble with those little plastic zipties. Not only makes it less confusing, but seems to help the noise ratio (maybe my imagination; or could it work like a 'twisted pair' cable?)
Every guitar has a different wiring schema, so best not go into detail on actual connections. Here are a couple links with wiring options:
Acme Guitar Works
Craig's Guitartech Wiring
GuitarElectronics Strat diagrams
STEP 12: Reassemble
Put it all back together; in some order such as:
--Reattach the neck. Begin by advancing screws partway for alignment, then clamp the assembly together (backplate, body & neck), firmly but gently so no gap forms between body & neck. Tighten screws.
--Solder output jack to electrics on pickguard.
--Install pickguard.
--Reinstall bridge at posts. Flip it over and insert the tremolo springs. I prefer 3 minimum, 4 is better.
--Add the knobs, etc you removed when shielding the pickguard.
--Reattach the neck. Begin by advancing screws partway for alignment, then clamp the assembly together (backplate, body & neck), firmly but gently so no gap forms between body & neck. Tighten screws.
--Solder output jack to electrics on pickguard.
--Install pickguard.
--Reinstall bridge at posts. Flip it over and insert the tremolo springs. I prefer 3 minimum, 4 is better.
--Add the knobs, etc you removed when shielding the pickguard.
STEP 13: Replace Missing String Guide
The high 'E' string kept popping out of the nut when bending notes. Replacing the 'String Guide' solved the problem.
I left the second guide off. Guitar techs advise not to use it, if it's not causing problems. If you're aggressive with the 'whammy bar,' it might be helpful.
I left the second guide off. Guitar techs advise not to use it, if it's not causing problems. If you're aggressive with the 'whammy bar,' it might be helpful.
STEP 14: Scope the Results
Stand back, and take it in...
This still needs some guitar polish, new strings and a bit of tweaking.
This still needs some guitar polish, new strings and a bit of tweaking.
STEP 15: Play It!
Well, what else would you do?
Here's a little noodling:
Note: this is played through an old 'Decca' solid-state practice amp--no filtering, at half-volume, and recorded with a consumer digital camera. So this is the worst-case scenario for the sound...
(shame: still has the original 'snowstorm' rusty strings in this video. They'll be the first things to go...)
And still needs a backplate/cover (over the exposed tremolo spring cutout.)
Here's a little noodling:
Note: this is played through an old 'Decca' solid-state practice amp--no filtering, at half-volume, and recorded with a consumer digital camera. So this is the worst-case scenario for the sound...
(shame: still has the original 'snowstorm' rusty strings in this video. They'll be the first things to go...)
And still needs a backplate/cover (over the exposed tremolo spring cutout.)
199 Comments
hoge36 3 years ago
pfred2 14 years ago
gmoon 14 years ago
pfred2 14 years ago
http://www.worldblues.com/bbking/prairie/lucille.html
I don't think Jimi Hendrix was ever driven to smash any of his Gibsons either ;) He used a Les Paul to play Little Wing among other things. I guess he just liked the Strats to smash.
But then again maybe you are onto something about Gibsons and rock:
http://www.guitarsite.com/news/images/artists/Jimmy_Page_metal.jpg
He is after all Mr. Rock and Roll.
He may have figured out your coil issues too:
http://www.higgs.com/images/guitars/page-schematic-sm.jpg
Irock148 13 years ago
pfred2 13 years ago
Irock148 13 years ago
1.http://www.prsguitars.com/
2.http://www.guitarcenter.com/New-Gear.gc?internal=1&src=paul+reed+smith&Search.x=35&Search.y=13
pfred2 13 years ago
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/9188/guitard.jpg
So I'm good.
Logan302 8 years ago
You are truly missing out on something special if you haven't tried PRS Mr Gibson. BTW i do love gibson and fender aswell
Irock148 13 years ago
pfred2 13 years ago
With my tool and skill set unless it involves human surgery I'm really not required to do much of anything today that I cannot do for myself. Guitar tech, don't make me laugh! I do all my own tech:
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/7867/testout.jpg
Logan302 8 years ago
Yes go PRS
strat6911 12 years ago
Logan302 8 years ago
WooHoo go PRS
pfred2 12 years ago
chirpychapx 9 years ago
I heard it was a 'spiritual detachment from possessions' thing with Jimi. He said you have to 'sacrifice the things you love' so he set fire to his fav guitar.... apparently.
pfred2 9 years ago
Yeah well, when you're getting all of the equipment that you want for free, you don't have to be too concerned about it I guess. You don't think Jimi was paying for his guitars do you? Because he wasn't! Marshall built special amplifiers for Jimi too. They rigged them so they only went up to 7, along with some other modifications, like using silver solder in them exclusively. The 7 thing was because Jimi just cranked amps up all of the way. Even Marshalls can fail if you do that all of the time. That looks bad when it happens on stage too. Companies give artists like Jimi all of that equipment for free because that is what sells equipment.
People are still buying strats today because Jimi played one. So it is a good investment. I bet if the true percentage of how many were influenced to buy a strat because Jimi played one was known it would be a staggering amount. 9 out of 10 would not surprise me.
pfred2 9 years ago
I should add that the one bit of kit that Jimi did spend his personal money on was effects. He was known to go to Mannys and buy whatever struck his fancy at the time. Although a lot of Jimi's effects were later modified specifically for him too. Rodger Mayer is famous for having done that.
gmoon 14 years ago
pfred2 14 years ago