Wood Slat Wall

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Introduction: Wood Slat Wall

Wood slat feature wall for entryway.

Step 1: Materials

I used select pine in alternating 1″x2″ and 1″x3″ pieces. I chose select pine (it seemed the most economical) after testing some stains on a piece and liking the results. I highly recommend using pre-stain wood conditioner for a more even stain (helps to prevent blotchiness).

Step 2: Test Stains

I tested several different stains to see how they would look.

Step 3: Wood Prep

After selecting the stain (Minwax English Chestnut), I started prepping the wood. This involved lightly sanding each piece (22) 1″ x 3″ and (24) 1″ x 2″ to expose the grain.

Step 4: Staining and Mockup

I wasn’t looking forward to the process of multiple staining and sanding of the wood slats, but was surprised when the Minwax instructions said to NOT sand between applications. I was a bit skeptical, but followed the directions and was happy with the results. I applied about 2-3 coats of stain with rags (old socks!) waiting for each coat to dry before applying the next. I liked the slight sheen that came from only using the stain, and opted to not apply any Polyurethane clear coat.

Step 5: The Slats

I did not pre-cut any of the slats due to the slight variations in the wall length which ranged from 1/4″ to 1/2″. I first held a slat on the wall, and marked the overhang (part to cut off) and trimmed off using a miter saw. I used a brad nailer to attach the 1″ x 2″ to the top of the 1″ x 3. This also helped to straighten out some of the boards that were slightly warped.

Step 6:

Step 7: Final Product

Let me know if there are any questions and visit my blog at www.housezhu.com

Thanks!

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    13 Comments

    0
    KadirÖ1
    KadirÖ1

    Question 2 years ago on Step 6

    Cool idea. One question: how exactly did you attach the slats to the wall?

    1
    housezhu
    housezhu

    Answer 2 years ago

    Hi! I used an 18 gauge brad nailer to attach the slats to the wall. See pic.

    image.jpg
    0
    lindsey.rodriquez1012
    lindsey.rodriquez1012

    Reply 4 weeks ago

    How far apart did you have to place each nail?

    0
    housezhu
    housezhu

    Reply 4 weeks ago

    Best to attach to studs. Typically 24” on center. Use a stud finder to confirm locations.

    0
    mrgrieves12
    mrgrieves12

    Reply 7 weeks ago

    looks amazing! how did you cover/hide the nail holes?

    1
    housezhu
    housezhu

    Reply 7 weeks ago

    Thanks! I actually did not cover the nail holes. I used an air brad nailer and aligned the nails on each board for consistency. I originally planned to fill the holes, but they don't bother me (see image).

    IMG_7543.jpg
    0
    mrgrieves12
    mrgrieves12

    Reply 7 weeks ago

    Thanks for the quick reply. If you had to do the project again, would you do anything differently?

    0
    housezhu
    housezhu

    Reply 7 weeks ago

    We are thrilled with the end results and wouldn't change a thing!

    0
    mrgrieves12
    mrgrieves12

    Reply 7 weeks ago

    Did you find step 5 was necessary? Was wondering if the 1x2 can be nailed directly to wall with long brad nails

    0
    housezhu
    housezhu

    Reply 7 weeks ago

    I found that nailing the 1x2 to the 1x3 helped to straighten out some of the boards that were slightly warped. It also reduces the number of exposed nail holes. I suppose you could nail the 1x2s directly to the wall with long enough nails and a steady hand.

    0
    FlyinngDolphin
    FlyinngDolphin

    4 years ago

    This is all very nice if someone else does the dusting and cleaning.

    I am currently designing modular enclosed bookshelves due to the dust problem. Even with an room size air purifier, dust is still a problem.

    0
    greenbriel
    greenbriel

    4 years ago

    Looks great! I'm about to build an office/workspace and this will be perfect. Thanks for the instructable!

    0
    DIY Hacks and How Tos

    That looks really nice. I like how you were able to work it around the wall art pieces.