Wyatt GBG Car

Introduction: Wyatt GBG Car

About: Students at Wichita State University run a program that modifies off-the-shelf ride-on toy cars for kids with disabilities. Our cars feature more technical builds with joysticks and arduinos. We post our instr…

Wyatt is a disabled child that tends to try and relax into whatever surface he's on. He has good trunk development but will try to lean or lay on anything, not wanting to keep himself upright. We modified the powerwheels in order to give him support that encourages him to keep himself upright, a button on the steering wheel to introduce him to cause and effect, and a power switch that a parent can use to shut the car's acceleration off.



- AbleNet "Big Red" Switch


- Single Pole Single Throw Toggle Switch

https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSW-18-Heavy... (Or Similar)

- Swimming Kickboard

https://www.amazon.com/VIAHART-Adult-Swimming-Kick... (Or Similar)

- Zip Ties

- Electrical Wires

- 2 5cm wide Velcro Straps

- Wire Connector Caps


- Measuring Tape

- Dremel Tool Drill Bits - 3/16", 1/8"

- Screwdrivers

- Wrenches

- Pliers

- Wire Strippers/Cutter

Step 1: Assembling the Car

Before progressing any further, take a moment to check to make sure you have all the required supplies and tools. Be sure to refer to the manual of the Power Wheel in order to ensure none of the parts are missing from the kit, as it's not entirely uncommon for hardware to be misplaced or not in the box to begin with.

Once you're confident that you have everything mentioned in "Supplies", and have prepared an adequate amount of space to construct in, you should be set to begin assembling the car. Be sure to follow the instruction manual closely to fully assemble the car before moving forward to the next steps.

(If for some reason the instruction manual is missing from the power wheel kit, you can download the PDF version using this link - https://teams.microsoft.com/_#/xlsx/viewer/teams/...)

Step 2: Adjusting the Wiring and Kill Switch

  1. Drill a hole on the bottom right of the care to insert the Kill Switch that is given
  2. Inserting the Kill Switch through the back.
  3. Take off the bottom panel that protects the wire
  4. Disconnect the wiring from the peddle
    • Use the Multi Meter to find the ground and voltage (3 to 5 V)
    • Voltage to the kill switch
    • Ground to the Steering Wheel (Step 3)
  5. Lead the voltage through the electrical panel to the back of the car.
  6. Connect the voltage wire to the kill switch.

Step 3: Augmenting the Steering Wheel

1. As briefly mentioned in Step 2, the "Big Red" button's wires will be wired to one end of the kill switch, with the other wired to the "ground" wire that was discovered after disconnecting the acceleration petal and using the multi meter to test both wires.

2. Unscrew the steering wheel, and you should be left with the top and bottom halves of the wheel.

3. Using a Dremel tool, cut away the inside portion of the top half of the steering wheel, leaving just enough of the three inside edges intact to ensure the button will stay firmly in place when the two halves are screwed back together.

4. Screw the two halves of the wheel back together, this time with the button seated in-between the halves. (If necessary, you may need to chisel away some of the plastic on the bottom half of the steering wheel in order to secure the button in place and ensure you can screw the wheel back together effectively.)

5. Lastly, drill a hole just big enough to fit the wires from the steering wheel into, leading from the inside of the "dashboard" of the car to just below the hood, underneath the car.

6. Pull the wires through the hole, starting from the outside of the dash and pulling them through to just underneath the hood, where they can now be wired according to 1.

Step 4: Adding Seat Supports

1. Holes were drilled into the seat and into the kickboard. Zipties were used to affix the kickboard to the seat

2. Holes were drilled into the rear bar that holds the lights behind the seat. This bar was about 28cm above the bottom of the seat. The straps had holes cut into them matching the bar's holes and were affixed to the bar using zipties.

3. Holes were drilled into the bottom sides of the seat, matching holes were cut into the straps, and the straps were affixed to the seat using zipties.

4. Foam tubes were cut into shape and adhesive backed velcro was stuck to them and the inside walls of the car in order to affix the foam to provide leg support.

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