UCSC IEEE Technology of Today and Tomorrow Conference

UCSC IEEE, is hosting our 3rd annual Technology of Today and Tomorrow Student Conference, otherwise known as TTT on May 4th, 2019 at Baskin Engineering. The Conference consists of an entire afternoon of speakers and demos for students to interact with. We are bringing tech companies right to the doorsteps of our UC Santa Cruz students. They will discover how engineers are using science to solve real world problems. The Technology of Today and Tomorrow Student Conference is created by students for students. It is an amazing opportunity to see the endless possibilities waiting for them outside the university. I wanted to reach out to the wonderful creators and engineers in this group to ask if anyone wants to be a speaker at our event. If you created a cool project, are working on cutting edge research, or want to present on interesting work, we would love to have you come speak! If you're interested, please fill out the form linked and we will get back to you within a few days and feel free to reach out if you have any questions!Presenter form: https://forms.gle/mah37TLkQgf5UHPg7Thank you, Vaishnavi DornadulaRobotics Engineering Electrical Engineering Minor UCSC IEEE Vice-Chair University of California- Santa Cruz Class of 2021

Topic by va.dornadula 


Can't delete collections / Can't change order of collections

As the title reads, I am not able to delete my (even empty) collections.I would also like to see an option to change the order they are shown in the dropdownlist while browsing i'bles. I think there MUST be a way to delete unused/empty Collections or even move their order.And as a programmer, I don't think it is that complicated to create a "delete" button (or a "change order" button maybe).Would love to read that this will be made soon..Cheers!

Topic by Dwargh   |  last reply


Instructables Image Compression

Does Instructables compress images once uploaded? What is the recommended file size so as to avoid compression of the image?

Topic by ElectroGuruji   |  last reply


Re-using Smart TV board from dead TV to make another TV smarter...

Hi, I have just bought LG 47GA6400 TV but I damaged LCD screen (CRD31092201) when I was assembling it.  I couldn't find low cost LCD to replace and I started wondering how I can reuse any remaining parts of this TV. Actually there are many people like me wondering what to do with dead Smart TV. Few years ago you would receive a standard advice – throw it away. But today Smart TV parts are powerful and with your help might be re-used again... Here is an example: My LG TV has mainboard with dual core CPU,  Google TV inside and cool remote controller with QWERTY keyboard and tons of applications.... I wish I could reuse it with other, not so smart LCD TV I have.  The only problem, how to connect Smart TV mainboard to a HDMI.  It doesn't have HDMI out, it has only input ports and one LCD interface cable.... Is it a crazy idea to convert LCD interface back to HDMI or VGA ? Can you create an instructables to show how to do that ?

Topic by alexgontcharov   |  last reply


Dremel Micro Repair/Reuse

Recently at the end of 2016, I acquired a Dremel Micro cordless rotary tool from a garage sale/yard sale for about $20. I used it maybe 3 - 4 times until it didn't want to hold a charge for long. Basically when I put it on the charger, the LEDs scroll top/down indicating it is charging but after a minute or two they stop their normal scrolling sequence and they all stay lit up, which isn't even mentioned of in the manual. The fuel gauge battery indicator shows up red meaning it's near its battery life. At this point, I'm considering either to salvage the motor or buy a new battery for the dremel (which are 2 Sanyo 14650 batteries that are soldered onto a circuit board inside). I'm just wondering is there something that I have failed to do that would make the dremel not hold a charge? Thanks in advance!

Topic by TXVisual   |  last reply


DVI to VGA Conversion on a Budget

I didn't make this into an Instructable because my wife is visiting Minnesota and took the digital camera with her. If anyone wants to build this and photograph their process, just include me as a collaborator and I'll be happy... :) I just acquired a new (used) video card for my Mac. Unfortunately, it has a ADC (Apple Display Connector) and a DVI (Digital Video Interface). While the card is capable of driving two displays, I only had a DVI-VGA adapter and ADC-VGA adapters run $50-100US! I decided that I'd just have to figure out how to wire my own adapter and run it to an unused PCI plate. The following schematic is a DVI-VGA adapter. I've included the pins that would be used for the equivalent points on an ADC connector. I just finished wiring an ADC connector to a VGA connector on another plate. It works perfectly! I hope this saves someone else a few bucks... Vegas

Topic by LasVegas   |  last reply


Can I use a security cam dvr to record my tv shows?

I found a working(turns on) digital video recorder with a hard drive in it. Can this be used to record tv shows off my smarttv? It's a Samsung SDR-B74303n, it does not have a remote. Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

Topic by LoriR76   |  last reply


Funny login bug!

Today I had to log out and back in again to do replies, despite all showing I am still logged in.So this "older" bug is still going around here.What was new though was tha after the login I ended on Rick's page instead of mine.As I am nice and also know him I did not do anything I might regred, but I had full access until clicking on the community pages - from there on I was me again.Landing on a wrong profile is one things but being able to check private messages and more until leaving this are could be a potential security problem.I mean, I could have changed the Email and Password and just taken Ricks account over today... ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


What happened to the HTML Editor?

I used to be able to create tables using the HTML editor, but I can't seem to find it anymore.

Topic by ElectroGuruji   |  last reply


Please help Electronic (problem in power bank)

One of a resistance it's blow up in the power bank and i don't have the number of it !! and I could not find any scheme for this Motherboard of power bank and chip that use in this power bank is mt4606 and name of this Motherboard is yd178_b

Topic by maatoubi   |  last reply


How to make seed counter with arduino

I want to seed a number that counts the number of seeds. Also, the number of seeds counted, if the number entered by the kaypad was equal, then a relay would be illuminated.

Topic by hoosseina   |  last reply


Is it possible to link Arduino modules with a portable induction stove?

Hi guys! I would like to get an opinion on my first ever project. I would like to link an Arduino module to my portable induction stove. I was hoping that it would be able to do this: ---------- START ---------- 0 min - Start recording sequence Press[Rec] Heating Value: 0 Systems records no change in heating level 1 min - Puts ingredients and increases temperature by 3 levels Press[Increase Temperature]x3 Heating Value: 3 System records an increase in heat by 3 levels upon reaching the 1st min. 7 min - Dish is heated up, let it cool for a bit, decreases temperature by 1 level Press[Decrease Temperature]x1 Heating Value: 2 System records a decrease in heat by 1 level upon reaching the 7th min. 9 min - Dish is cooked. Decrease heating level to 0. Press[Decrease Temperature]x2 Heating Value: 0 System records a decrease in heat by 1 more level upon reaching the 9th min. 9.5 min - Stop recording sequence Press[Stop] Heating Value: 0 System stops recording. Recording is saved and ready for 'reading'. ---------- END ----------- Upon completion of the recording, this set of sequence should be able to upload back to the stove to replicate an identical set of heat change with respect to time. As such, would this project be possible? I would like to modify on the existing parts on my stove that I have. It comes with an interface or some sort that is linked directly to the buttons on the stove. (the buttons available are some commonly used presets and timer settings and an increase and decrease button for the heating level and timer) Any opinions and feedback would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you very much!! - Eddie (Newbie in electrical and programming)

Topic by eddiewoo   |  last reply


How to connect mic to LM386 Audio Amplifier Module Board 5V-12V for Arduino

HI! I want to make a radio nany ( microphone near the baby , speaker near the mother)  I bought   LM386 Audio Amplifier Module Board for Arduino from ebay (pic attached),  a sound sensor and a speaker.  But I have a problem : When I conecting to the module input some audio like mobile phone or MP3 player it works, if I connecting a microphone (any) nothing.... Maybe somebody have any idea? Will POST the device here when will work :) Thanks! 

Topic by AnnaL3   |  last reply


Cannot get recent instructables on all subjects

I used to like looking at what people had done, whatever the topic, but the last couple of weeks it has not been available, the bookmark that used to do it for me just delivers a 404 error. Can this be brought back? I don't want to just browse one subject area.

Topic by stechi   |  last reply


Webcam module pins layout

Which are the pins of this camera HP PN 692893?thanks!

Topic by christ479   |  last reply


Arduino autonomous and remote controlled car

Hello everyone,I'm currently trying to design a small control two wheel robot (similar to an ollie by sphero) that is capable to be moved remotely or can be coded to follow a set of instructions if it is not being controled by the user. I heard from many of my colleges arduinos are the best way to go but I have no idea where to start, any feedback or advice would be helpful.

Topic by donayre21 


Arduin

Can I control arduino from my pc via wifi ?

Topic by Ha_mido   |  last reply


Anode and cathode metals? (For electrolysis)

I want to seperate some water to get Hydrogen to play with, so I made a little electrolysis device with a 12v power supply. The only problem is that I have no idea what to use as the anode and cathode! Could I just use screws? Or pennies or something?

Topic by Login258   |  last reply


Webcam module pins layout

Which are the pins of this camera HP PN 692893?thanks!

Topic by christ479 


Is it possible to make a shoe printer out of an old desktop printer?

Hi everyone, I am just a marine engineering student and I always used to visit this page before and I really learned a lot from this page I really love it. It sound wierd but I got 999 "what if's" In my mind and one of them is what if I could make my own device that could paint my sneakers In any design I want? So now I'm planning to make a shoe printer out of my old desktop printer, Is it possible? The motors and some parts might be helpful and those are needed some time and a little bit of coding. And I want it to work like a cnc plotter. But the hardest part for me is the "Inking part" A.) "How does a printer manipulate colors?" . Let's say I want to print an apple with a white background on my shoe , how does a printer selects/mix a color for each coordination they paint? ( base, outline, background and etc. ) I mean, how do they do that? what device does this part for the printer? So that I could add it on the list. B.) "What process should I use? " . Is it heating? Should I use lazer? Or should I use a tiny nozzle? Or a multiple of nozzles? Or is it piezo electric pulses? What piece should it be? that would perfectly Suitable for printing on a sneakers? (Canvas) Additional question : (if ever) what type of ink should I use ? Any answer or suggestions would be so much appreciated

Topic by glennmarksovan   |  last reply


Limp home mode for automobil

I hope if i could find someone who have some interesting documents could help me for makin a good limp home mode to controle vehicle loads in the fail safe mode.best regards

Topic by YoussefM46 


Cannot post comments or reply to questions

When I tried yesterday to post a comment, it displayed a message: " Oops, something went wrong! " Today, I tried to reply to someone's question, but it wouldn't work: " Oops, something went wrong! " He was able to post the question, but that was eight days ago. That means this glitch happened between now and then.

Topic by Techno_Bot01   |  last reply


Wifi Mesh

Do you think mesh wifi really worth it for a big house ? Or i'd better go for wifi repeater ?

Topic by HiveA   |  last reply


Fixing a Dead Li-Polymer Tablet Battery by Over Voltage

Hello all,I find this Instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Fix-Dead-L...I need to use this method for a Pegatron battery G6BTA019H P/N:0B23-00E00RVhttps://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/EkIAAOSw...but I can't find a diagram of the pinouts for it, would it just be a case of connecting the very end wires, labelled + and -?How risky is that if it's wrong?Is there a way to test them with a multimeter?Thanks

Topic by PlexusIndustrious   |  last reply


Beware of the new Email scam!

Recently I noticed that one my Emails accounts got some unwanted attention.Both in the standard folder as well as in the provided spam folder I started to collect Emails.And I don't always mean from senders I knew or webistes I am registered with.My usual approach is to just delete what comes from unkown senders or has a suspicious feeling to it.So no winner got it all crap, no offers, no invitations...A few however seemd to originate from some well known "things on the web" - and some of them I am registered with and get ads, offers and such.Sadly that resulted in some Emails being looked at and then discarded anyways.I kept deleting those unwanted mails without opening them for a few days.They they magically changed ;)Websites I used and especially those that require login details appeared as senders.Nothing with any vital info in the preview but also no real activity from my end on those websites.Then I made some impulsive buys on Ebay :(On top of the usual Emails I also got some "reminders" and "seller offers" added.Never happened before and certainly not activated in my Ebay account as feature.And unlike real Emails from Ebay there was my account name missing.Instead a conviently placed and highlighted shortcut button to "You account login" was provided.Ok, fake, forwared to Ebays spam team and quickly confirmed as spam.Moved and only hours later I got more Emails with similar tempting offers as buttons to confirm something that requires me to login.And now from websites or services I actually logged in to this day.The wise donkey said: You have something on your computer that shouldn't be there!Reboot from a CD to have the hard drives checked for malware - negative captain :(Ok then must be something within Windows, time to use a system restor point for a few weeks ago.Again nope...So I used a different browser and quite few websites and services that require my login details.No new Emails... with those websites.Kept using this brwoser for a few days and only stuff I already had cam again a few times but overall far less spam mails.Used the standard browser for a few hours with some login requirements and within a day I had corresponding Emails for a few of them.Found several bad tracking cookies in my browser.Bad in terms of redirecting all visited IP addresses to some addresses I can't even find.Deleted all cookies as well as the browser history.Reboot...A closer look at those suspicious Emails revealed that some include a thing similar to the old single pixel tracker.If you open them and not otherwise prevented it will result in some webservice knowing you actually opened the Email.Together of course with your Email address.The headers were good fakes too so the real sender is properly disguised.Those bottons and links mostly went to websites my browser protection already knows and prevents.Some however did not.In a sandboxed browser I was able to get onto some more or less convincing copies or the originals websites login page.The addressbar always started with originals name but then had a lot of cryptic stuff added to it.Sandbox blocked all what would otherwise make it throughcame through but the browser was rendered useless in the sandbox after I "logged in".Did another check and confirmed that all links buttons and such on that "infected" website also cause the same browser crash.Only difference was that only WITH something typed into the login field the browser tried to establish a new outgoing connection before getting dusted.Conclusions:The malicious Email provides the IP address used.Most if not all links within such an Email end on malicious websites.Some, especially at the beginning don't!!Instead the links go to websites that use cookies and other stuff normal protection mechanisms overlook.Somewhere between opening the link and closing it or the browser a change is made.Either you get a popup windows looking like some advertisement or when you start your browser the next time you see some website added that was not there before.The spammer now know you actually bothered enough to follow at least of the faked links provided in the Emails.The added bonus tracker provides ongoing supplies of websites you visit.A lot still use things in the address bar that identify them as a login page, even if it just starting with HTTPS.Popular websites and services get faked copies on servers in the dark web or at least outside normal DNS services.Now the spammer adds more and more Emails faking things you login to when using a browser for it.Until now nothing too bad or irriversible happend.But get fooled and actually click on a link in one of the new spam mails and it might be over.In the "best outcome" you would be locked out of your browser and have to delete it in safe mode or attempt a manual removal of the hijacker.A bit worse is if your protection started to fail and instead of the hijacke you end up with something manipulating your system.Really bad would be if you end on faked login website, and safety fails until you are locked out from your own system.Don't know what Email you might get after that and what demands to fix your system...However it gets worse: Like the one before but when enter your credentials and hit the login button the website jumps to some random Youtube clip or Goole search page.In case you wonder: You just gave the spammer your personal login details for said webiste or service....Most "deadly" would be if you end on more than just one like that.Every single one give the spammer a new login that you might pay for or that includes even more senstive data.Having to format and re-install all sudden is a thing of far too late then.I do not know if there was an Email I clicked on first, an infected advertisement or even some leaked Email addresses including my own on the internet for sale.All I know for sure is that those tracking options in the malicious Emails correspond to tracking stuff in the browser.No virus, no real malware until you click on the wrong stuff.Anything to prevent this from happening?Whatever you do: Do not use anything that requires the internet! - Just kidding!! Relax...1: Never click on anything inside mails from sources you don't fully trust! If in doubt copy and paste the link into an editor and check if it identical to the real address! Usually you would find some random stuff after the dot of the address name where you would other wise see .COM or .COM.AU.2. In case you ended on some spam or fake looking website anyways you should delete the cookies and browser history. The history might not be required though.3. Best would of course be to only allow known and trusted cookies or to not use any that survive a restart of the browser.4. Very important! If you start to get those Email very shortly after using it to create an account for something on the web then please provide the website you registered at with that Email address !!!5. If you get faked Emails for things you are actually registered with then please consider to imform the admins or support of this website about it. You might not have clicked on it but some user there might if nobody places a warning ;)What if all went to a total failure?I assume why you made that backup of all vital data and kept it updated?Also how install your operating system, in my case Windows, again.A hijack is easy, a fully infected or even encrypted system not.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Connecting Arduino to raspberry pi

I need to connect the Arduino to raspberry pi and program both with labview Is there any instructions please

Topic by mustafaa201   |  last reply


Simple circuit simulator

Hello,I am a hobbyist , and I am looking for a simple circuit simulator that can tell me if my circuit is working well.Just simple to use not like those professional that are hard to use and oriented to professionals.Does anybody know about?thanks to everyone.

Topic by Leonida61   |  last reply


A couple of suggestions for the website

When I click on an article in the email and come to the site, it looks as if I'm logged in but nothing works because I must log out and log back in to make the site recognize me. The email click should bring me to a login page and then take me to the clicked-on article.Also, adding something to a collection is awkward, with the roll-down top bar coming into view only when you scroll down and then stepping through several clicks. Compare how natural it is at thingverse. This is how it should work.

Topic by williamduncan   |  last reply


Portable media build parts question

I'm looking to build a portable gaming and media station but I'm stuck on a couple things and am hoping people here might have some suggestions and/or links. Basically, I bought a large aluminum camera case, big enough to hold a 22" led tv in the lid. I am going to mount the tv in the lid, thinking of just drilling the holes and mounting the tv directly to the lid. Any critiques or problems with that would be nice.Second, I'm going to mount a ps3, a portable media player (think Von Haus) which uses flash drives or portable hard drive via US, and a retropie system. Now where I'm running into trouble is two-fold. One is how to mount the items into the case. Foam would normally work well, but I'm worried about heat reduction, less so for the media player and more for the ps3 and retropie. I'm also worried about having it hardmounted onto the case via glue gun because of any shocks it might get while in transport. I also want to dremel out in the front and the back, and put in ports to be able to connect to an outside source as needed. Basically, I need a number of connectors which mount inside with the port leading out. USB 2/3, HDMI, RCA cable connector (RWY). I can find extension cables, but what I'm more looking for is, say for USB, a male lead on one end to connect to the ps3, and a female lead on the other end which sits inside case but is dremel'ed out to be able to connect a USB from the outside, basically a plate which I can just screw in. Something similar to what you'd find inside a console or similar. Anything which anyone can help with on any of these would be greatly appreciated.

Topic by GeorgeGrace   |  last reply


HELP can not acess using chrome

When I try using Chrome I get message saying Instructorless is temporally not working and do I want to play clumsy robot. If I use IE I can view but cannot download any pdf's or view comments

Topic by TEWING49 


A powerful EMP generator, to disable (temporarily) stereos in my neighbors house.

Hey guys, I'm trying to build a portable EMP generator, which will be powerful enough to knock out (temporarily) my neighbors stereo (if he plays it on loud at midnight again). My setup is as follows: 8 330v 160uF Capacitors wired up in series. 8 330v charging circuits for the capacitors with their outputs in series wired to the capacitors through a switch. The 8 capacitors are wired up to a coil through a switch. The coil is made from 6 gauge wire (or a 1/16" copper strip) that is coiled 5 times. I would really appreciate any feedback because this is a fairly large undertaking for me, and i'm kind of nervous at working with over 2000v of electricity. Does anyone know if you can discharge a cpapcitor by throwing it into a swimming pool???

Topic by recon506   |  last reply


Rex C100 temperature controller - changing settings

I recently ordered a REX C100 for my electric melting furnace project. As it came already with a SSR and temp sensor I only added a sensor capable of reading more than 400° of the supplied one. These controller are dirt cheap and have lots of support in the modding community - although you now can get them new in all variations so no more modding required. Internally they run on 12V DC, so even mobile use is possible (but this time after modding). My problem with this controller started with the not included manual. As it is no China clone but an original from RKC Japan, I downloaded their manual and tried to adjust the max temp settings as well as changing to the thermocouple. To my surprise the menus for that simply did not exist on my model. Reading a few more manuals showed that to get to the "initial or factory setup" you need to change the lock code. Here things get confusing: Once in the lock menu setting most manuals state to enter "0000" to activate the hidden menus. (Mine was alreay on 0000) Others state to set the code to "0100". In any case you have to hold the setup key for a few seconds to store the changes and after that hold the settings and shift key for about 5 seconds to enter these factory menus. After being close to send the unit back I tried different code combinations and finally found that "1000" actually activates the hidden menu on my model! But again there was no joy as several vital settings still did not show up. To finally get all settings another step is required: The first item in the hidden menu is "CODE" and it shows as "0000". After changing this to "0001" the setup key can be used to get to the settings to change the max and min temps. Once all this done the controller actually shows the selected sensor and if Celsius or Fahrenheit is used at the start and from now on simply by clicking through the hidden menu with the setup key you can get to the min and max temp settings again. I hope this info will help someone running into the same brick walls as I did...

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Help me design the Circuit,

Hello everyone;I want to make power backup for my internet router which runs on, 9v and 0.6Ah or 600mAh, I bought the 9v battery but it could not provide enough current to the router to work properly, so now i have two 6v batteries which provides 4Ah current each and i want to use them for power backup, now i,m stuck at the point that how i'm going to make this voltage lower i.e 12V to 9V, however, I figured out how I can limit the current to 0.6Ah or 600mAh, i,m using 12v charger to charge these batteries while connected in series and will use it with router as well, can any one help me out the how can i decrease the voltage to 9V and use it power my router.i'll be grateful

Topic by TamurT   |  last reply


mobility scooter

I have a walkabout 330 mobility scooter i have cut some wires and now i'm lost and they didn't make a manual for them and can i eliminate a lot of things like lights horn etc i only use it for golf  but i can't walk the course and i was wondering could and how to wire it in the simplest way to get it going ???  i'm really lost and confused any way to hot wire it maybe ???? Hope some one understands me Cheers macca

Topic by maccaorgordon   |  last reply


Can't edit a collection

I made this collection some time ago. At first, when I tried to edit it, it would open up, but it would get stuck in the loading screen, with the dots moving across. I tried again, the same thing happened. The next day, the same thing happened. Then, a short time later, when I open the editor, the site shows the "404: We're sorry, things break sometimes" error. So now I can't even delete the collection.

Topic by Techno_Bot01   |  last reply


Modifying Altec Lancings "Life Jacket 2" Waterproof portable speaker.

So I got one of these portable speakers for work. Works great though it could be a touch louder. It lets you charge your phone while either using Bluetooth or direct aux input. Now there's only one problem/annoyance. Every time you power on/off the device and sync to Bluetooth, this voice confirmation plays this audio file that's much longer than it needs to be. "Powering on! Welcome to Altec Lansing" when Bluetooth kicks on "You are now paired! Enjoy!" when you turn off "Powering off!" Anyway, I was already planning on modding it by adding an amplifier to the Line In, since its much louder when a PC is connected vs a phone. I may also add more 18650's but with 15 hour battery life its not necessary. Unless I plan on turning it into a charging hub for all my co-workers phones or something. Anyway, I am here to try to get some help on disabling the voice, its only really a problem because on max volume the voice is WAYY too loud and usually startles people. Here's a review video that shows all the features. Amazingly I can't find a Youtube video of the Voice Confirmation. Here's the useless manual. Manual I Already emailed Altec Lansing to see if there's anyway to disable the voice. I have several images for you to see. I can grab more if necessary. Alternatively, would I be able to just replace the entire board with another one? Such as, an amplifier, USB charger, 18650 charger, and some hacked up Bluetooth headset (with no voice-confirmation) I ask because I rather like the case for its shock resistance capability, and the control buttons are removable so adding new controls and switches would be easy.

Topic by Crusty-Bobcat   |  last reply


I can't comment!!

Whenever I try to post a comment it says that "Oops, something went wrong!" Please reply how to fix it

Topic by Hassan Nasser   |  last reply


Need help creating a very simple Arduino code

Just a simple forward code. arduino uno to A3967 EasyDriver Stepper Motor Driver to nema 17

Topic by Sweetcorn_18   |  last reply


What is it? Is there a modern equivalent?

This is from a 1949 Pfaff 332 sewing machine foot pedal. (I believe the machine was brought to the US by a war bride.) When I tried the machine recently, it wouldn't completely stop when I took my foot off. We opened it up and found this partially decomposed multi layered 'thing'. Other than dust and dirt, it looks like the only damaged part. Does anyone know what it is? Does anyone know what a modern equivalent would be?

Topic by mole1   |  last reply


Another idea for a piece-tracking chess board

RFID-based chess boards have their merits of course, but would be pretty expensive and could potentially suffer from antenna cross-talk. Furthermore, the relatively immense amount of information carried compared to what's required makes RFID sort of overkill. Reed switches have the opposite problem, only carrying a single bit of information per square (piece present y/n). It seems that what you want is something in-between (six kinds of pieces, two colors, so you only need four bits of entropy per square/piece).My idea is the following:Each square is a circuit containing a signal generator connected to four bandpass filters at frequencies f1,f2,f3,f4 (multiplexed of course, so that we only need a few signal generators/filters)Each piece has a RLC circuit in the foot (with fairly large inductance)The circuit in each piece is tuned to resonate at frequency f1, f2, f3 or f4, or any combination of the fourTo poll a square for information, we mux to the square's circuit and generate sin(f1) + sin(f2) + sin(f3) + sin(f4). Now we should be able to discern which piece is on the square based on the frequency response observed at the output of the bandpass filtersIf I'm not completely missing something, the resulting PCB should be comparatively cheap to construct. But I'd love to hear if this is a less elegant solution than I think. Are there any problems with this idea?

Topic by BenjaminL136   |  last reply


Help With Arduino Robot Arm Record & Playback With SD Card, Bluetooth

Hi, I need some help please with the following code - lots of errors occur when I try to verify it. The author is unavailable for help & the code appears to be in the public domain. Check out the clip, it looks awesome! https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v;=7A1WL60wMe0 https://github.com/Dileepmeom/Arduino-Robotic-Arm- //# Arduino-Robotic-Arm---Copt-Cat //This project controls the Cartesian robotic arm using Arduino, Motion sequence can be recorded and played back just like //Industrial robot does /* COPY CAT Servo controlled Robot 5-axis Cartesian robot This software logs the angular movement of joints by reading the servo angles and stores it in the SD card, reproduces the movement by the reading back from the SD card. The circuit: analog sensors on analog ins 0, 1, and 2 SD card attached to SPI bus as follows: ** MOSI - pin 11 ** MISO - pin 12 ** CLK - pin 13 ** CS - pin 4 created 24 Nov 2010 modified 9 Apr 2012 by Tom Igoe This example code is in the public domain. */ include include define TRUE 1 define FALSE 0 // On the Ethernet Shield, CS is pin 4. Note that even if it's not // used as the CS pin, the hardware CS pin (10 on most Arduino boards // 53 on the Mega) must be left as an output or the SD library // functions will not work. const int chipSelect = 4; // constants won't change. They're used here to // set pin numbers: const int buttonPin = 2; // the number of the pushbutton pin const int servo3 = 5, servo4 = 6,servo5 = 5; // PWM for servo 3 // variables will change: int buttonState = 0; // variable for reading the pushbutton status int recievedchar = 0,dataON=0; int SDdata = 0; Servo myservo1; // create servo object to control a servo Servo myservo2; // create servo object to control a servo Servo myservo3; // create servo object to control a servo Servo myservo4; // create servo object to control a servo Servo myservo5; // create servo object to control a servo int servo1angle = 0,servo2angle = 0; unsigned long current_servo_micros, prev_servo_micros; unsigned long currentMillis,previousMillis = 0; int scheduler = 0; int servointerval = 20; int S3_microlocal; char servoON=0; void setup() { // Open serial communications and wait for port to open: Serial.begin(9600); while (!Serial) { ; // wait for serial port to connect. Needed for Leonardo only } pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT_PULLUP); Serial.print("Initializing SD card..."); // make sure that the default chip select pin is set to // output, even if you don't use it: pinMode(10, OUTPUT); // see if the card is present and can be initialized: if (!SD.begin(chipSelect)) { Serial.println("Card failed, or not present"); // don't do anything more: return; } Serial.println("card initialized."); } void loop() { long servo3ticks = 1000, servo4ticks = 1000, servo5ticks = 1000; // interval for servo cyle time / / read the state of the pushbutton value: buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin); recievedchar = Serial.read(); // make a string for assembling the data to log: String dataString = ""; String arraystring = ""; String SDstring = ""; char firstseperator=0; unsigned long sensorarray[10]; int servoangle[5]; char arrayindex = 0; // open the file. note that only one file can be open at a time, // so you have to close this one before opening another. if(dataON == TRUE) { // read three sensors and append to the string: for (int analogPin = 0; analogPin < 5; analogPin++) { int sensor = analogRead(analogPin); sensorarray[analogPin] = sensor; dataString += String(sensor); if (analogPin < 4) { dataString += ","; } } File dataFile1 = SD.open("datalog.txt", FILE_WRITE); // if the file is available, write to it: if (dataFile1) { if(buttonState == HIGH) { // print to the serial port too: // Serial.println(dataString); /////////////////////////// debug code ///////////////////// for (arrayindex= 0; arrayindex < 5; arrayindex++) { int arrayvalue = sensorarray[arrayindex]; //arraystring += String(arrayvalue); } servo1angle = map(sensorarray[0], 102, 433, 0, 170); arraystring += servo1angle; arraystring += ","; servo2angle = map(sensorarray[1], 84, 468, 0, 180); arraystring += servo2angle; arraystring += ","; servo3ticks = map(sensorarray[2], 90, 393, 0, 150); arraystring += servo3ticks; arraystring += ","; servo4ticks = map(sensorarray[3], 107, 445,0, 180); arraystring += servo4ticks; arraystring += ","; servo5ticks = map(sensorarray[4], 151, 406, 10, 140); arraystring += servo5ticks; arraystring += ","; // Serial.println(arraystring); //// WRITE TO SD CARD // dataFile1.println(arraystring); dataFile1.close(); ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// delay(10); } else { dataFile1.close(); // print to the serial port too: Serial.println("No signal for writing"); } } // if the file isn't open, pop up an error: else { Serial.println("error opening datalog.txt"); } } // the reading's most significant digit is at position 15 in the reportString: ////// switch case starts ///////////////////////// switch (recievedchar) { case 'D': { dataON = TRUE; Serial.print("Recording"); Serial.print("\n"); myservo1.detach(); myservo2.detach(); myservo3.detach(); myservo4.detach(); myservo5.detach(); break; } case 'S': { dataON = FALSE; Serial.print("Stopped"); Serial.print("\n"); break; } case 'R': { myservo1.attach(5); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object myservo2.attach(3); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object myservo3.attach(8); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object myservo4.attach(7); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object myservo5.attach(9); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object File dataFile1 = SD.open("datalog.txt"); Serial.print("Playing Back Motions"); Serial.print("\n"); // if the file is available, write to it: if (dataFile1) { while (dataFile1.available()) { SDdata = dataFile1.read(); SDstring += (char)SDdata; // if(isDigit(SDdata)) // { // SDstring += (char)SDdata; // } // else // { // // int Sensordata = (inString.toInt()); // SDstring += ("_"); // } if(SDdata == '\n') { digitalWrite(servo4, LOW); String reportString = SDstring; // Serial.print("\n"); // Serial.println(reportString); // Serial.print("\n"); int seperator[5]={0}; int n=0,startfrom=0; for(n=1;n<=5;n++) { seperator[n]= reportString.indexOf(',',startfrom); startfrom = seperator[n]+1; // Serial.print(seperator[n]); // Serial.print("\n"); } seperator[0]=-1; for(int count=0;count<=4;count++) { String sens1data = ""; for(int index = (seperator[count]+1); index < seperator[count+1]; index++) { char mostSignificantDigit =SDstring.charAt(index); sens1data += String(mostSignificantDigit); // Serial.print(index); // Serial.print(","); } servoangle[count+1] = sens1data.toInt(); // Serial.print(servoangle[count+1]); // Serial.print(sens1data); // Serial.print("\n"); } delay(15); SDstring = ""; } // myservo1.write(0); // myservo2.write(100); // myservo3.write(100); // myservo4.write(100); // myservo5.write(10); myservo1.write(servoangle[1]); myservo2.write(servoangle[2]); myservo3.write(servoangle[3]); myservo4.write(servoangle[4]); myservo5.write(servoangle[5]); } dataFile1.close(); myservo1.detach(); myservo2.detach(); myservo3.detach(); myservo4.detach(); myservo5.detach(); } // if the file isn't open, pop up an error: else { Serial.println("error opening datalog.txt"); } break; } case 'E': { if(SD.exists("datalog.txt")) { Serial.print("datalog.txt file found, preparing to delete"); SD.remove("datalog.txt"); Serial.print("\n"); Serial.print("file deleted..."); } break; } } }

Topic by steve444   |  last reply


Login in Issues

Ok right now I am having another issue other then the not downloading one when I try to log in with my instructables account the login button on the login page https://www.instructables.com/account/login/ is not able to be pressed so I have to log on with facebook or google which is fine but it a bit anoying any one got some help

Topic by wnorman   |  last reply


{"error": "Sorry, we couldn't find that one!"}

Trying to download PDF for https://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Powered-WiF... ands get {"error": "Sorry, we couldn't find that one!"}

Topic by abasel   |  last reply


Rfid Brain Chip

Is it safe to destroy a Rfid Chip in the Brain with an EMP device or would the Heat damage the Tissue too much?

Topic by Atlasx111   |  last reply


Need help with a project

Hi, I am making a project with arduino that has to run two nema 17 stepper motors that will turn separate pinion gears for a rack and pinion and a single servo to move and arm up and down. I want to be able to control everything with a wired control pad. If anyone knows an instructable that would help with this could you let me know please. I have not had any luck finding anything. Thank you.

Topic by tensecondsdown   |  last reply


Anyone have any interest or experience with proximity based BLE iBeacons/Sensors?

Hi All, I'm semi-tech. & new to the community but figured I'd reach out, so please bear with me as I describe the following ask.Since last yr. I've been on the hunt for a small iOT sensor that based upon close proximity can be identified & actived via BLE without an attached app. Thought an Eddystone may work but purchased a few nRF51822 semiconductors but haven't tested them as yet & not sure if it's even the proper solution. I would need to program this beacon/sensor to launch a website, video on nearby cellphones. NFC works perfect but is extremely limited to only a 5cm range & requires an NFC capable device.I was told to try: "Perhaps the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+ could work since it supports BLE and also has WiFi:https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-... "But I'll need something much smaller [see attached] & less costly per unit. I'm envisioning something no larger than a quarter & powered possibly by a watch battery. Do you think the nrf would suffice?Any suggestions I'm super open as well as just ideation. Thx in advance.

Topic by AxelFoley77 


Oculus GO - The little sideloading guide

It seems making an Instructable these days requires lots of pictures, detailed steps and tons of instructions.So before I try to paste my attempt here, I will point something out for the support team:1. There is little point in including pictures of a VR headset or how to plug a USB cable in. Same for images showing a DOS window and the command typed in it - they are the same as in the instructions...2. With little to no option to create an Instructable that requires actual code usage and properly embedded picture, let alone good editing options: How do you suggest one would accomplish this taks?3. With no category to post such Instrucables it is my personal opinion that these catergories need quite some updates! They are still the same as years ago despite life evolving around it...If you just went into the mobile VR world then you might feel a bit restricted compared to what you know from your smartphone.Over the months firmware updates provided us with some much needed things but a bit is still left out. In this Ible I will try to show way to get a bit more out of your GO. Be aware that a lot of it still requires a bit of manual work and a computer.If you are just curious then please read on and you might still find something interesting that you did not know yet.Getting started...One thing we certainly need is a way to access the GO and to install additional apps on it that are not available in the store.For this we need to activate the developer options. Unlike your normal Android device this step works only from the device you paired with your GO. Go into the settings and there look for the developer mode. Once you try to activate it Oculus requires you to sign up for a developer account. All this of course needs to be confirmed through Email activation, you know just to make it complicated and get more info about you ;) From there it is straight forward and like on any Android. Activate USB debugging, pair with your computer by USB cable and on the GO authorise the connection. Please also tick the box to make this permanent as otherwise you will be prompted every time. In case you are not so familiar with this just Google how to use ADB on Android - it is simple. I will add the required files and drivers in a later step dedicated to it.If you need more help getting the right options done or where to find them, please consider the great help for this offered on the Oculus developer sites. It makes sense to spent some time there as you find a lot of good info that might come in handy once you really want to get serious.ADB - A must have...You will find the drivers and all, as said, a bit later. ADB is the Android Debug Bridge. It allows us to get access to the (user)available file systems, do some basic tests and if supported even flash a firmware or make a backup.If you already used ADB for another Android device then you will only need the drivers for the GO. Otherwise you need to set up the enviroment for the Debug Bridge first. In the downloads will be a simple installer for this purpose. It is vital that you authorise your computer on the GO, best to tick the box to make it permanent.If you open a command prompt where you have ADB installed you can do some simple tests. Setting all required paths and system variables in Windows would allow you to access ADB functions from any folder on your computer. The later might be easier if you do not want to copy all related files into your ADB folder. Makes no real difference though and is up to your preferences.The command ADB devices should show you now that your GO is connected by listing it. If nothing shows up then please check the USB debugging option is set in the developer options. A reboot might help too in some cases. With this sorted we are good to go, almost at least...How to install "unknown" apps?As you might have noticed there is no playstore and all available stuff in the official store is VR based.Getting some essential apps on it seems to be impossible.Again the help offered by Oculus in the developer sections is a vital source, so please don't be afraid to read there ;) There are two basic ways of doing things on a device with so many restrictions.1. Just use ADB install packetname Where packetname is the filename for the app in question, for example Netflix.apk. With all apps you need in one place this is quickly done.2. Use a dedicated app installer or manager for the job. I will include one that actually works with the downloads. Same fore more detailed instructions.The thing is though that only apps designed and signed for VR will show up in your normal launcher. All other (supported) Android apps will show up in "unknown sources" in your library. Apps not supported for this purpose won't show anywhere! For them you need a dedicated launcher, which will be placed in the "unknown sources" section ;)Why do I spoon feed you here you might wonder? To be honest: If you already read some terms and basics it will be much easier to remember. Repetition is the key ;) I see little point in providing a simple to follow list of intructions as a week later you would struggle to do it again without the list in front of you.Our first unknown apps!Deciding what you might need in apps is one thing, knowing in what order you can safe hours of your life is another. I simply don't think you want to juggle with ADB whenever you want a new app that is not available in the official store. So for starters we will need something that is able to install apps for us. And since we can't use it without something to find and start it we also need an app starter. Basically like HALauncher for Android TV.The detailed instructions for this can be found with the downloads. First the app starter is installed, it will provide us with a living room like view onto a big screen. On the screen you will find all apps that are otherwise invisible to you. Some might tempt you to try them out - just don't! Unless you really know what you are doing you have a good chance to do something bad. Use the apps you know and the apps you added but none of the tempting system apps you might see.The APK installer will show up there too and is used to make installing apps a bit easier. You can copy them now onto your GO's internal storage and use the app installer to install them - how easy is that? Another option I included is the Aurora store - a fork of the YALP store and able to work without any playstore requirements. Downside is that the VR controllers are not fully supported yet as it is more aimed at TV sets. A BT touchpad works though if the controller or a gamepad fail. I only included Aurora as it could be a nice alternative one day with full VR support. Just search or browse for all the apps available in the playstore and install what you like. Be aware though that not everything will work with the remote. Some games and apps can be operated with a game controller though.It is getting nicer already ;)By now you might have already installed some things as you just could not wait to skip to the downloads.Well, can't really blame you, can I?Anyways, we now have the option to install more apps that we know from our non-VR Android devices. Oculus might make it harder in the future though - or they see it the same way and offer ready to go options one day. Till then it is up to you....Youtube VR might be nice but it is also still quite buggy and lacks some basic features. So getting a modded Youtube app could be a way out if you need comments for example. Kodi is still a must have for many Android users, especially the sport nuts with us. A filemanager is also something most Android users value. I will include some but again it comes down to what YOU prefer here. And with a basic way to install apps now you can also remove them again if you decide they don't work as expected.Get a bit used to the app launcher and how to install apps. Sideloading is fine for those used to it but some might prefer to just copy some apps on the GO and them use the installer with the remote. In the near future we will get support for external sorage, so using a USB stick or SD card in a reader will make the USB cable obsolete for file transfers. Some headsets already support it, so chances are by the time you read this yours will too. Although it still is a good way to keep your GO charged while copying big files ;)Precautions and Words of WisdomIt all sound nice and easy now but there are dangers you need to be aware of! Installing apps or games that are not fully designed for the GO or VR use can mean crashes. A lot will work but that does not mean it will keep doing so. A firmware update could one day end the support for sideloaded apps that are "non-VR". Especially messing with the app launcher can mean sudden disaster. Things you normally can not see are often hidden from you for a good reason. I will take no responsiblity for problems you caused by misusing system apps !Console emulators are a lot of fun and there are ways to even stream them from your PC in reasonable quality on a low end computer. But these and some demanding games also cause a lot of CPU usage. As the system is not optimised for 2D content it can mean that your battery runs out faster. In some cases you might not see the warning to charge, so be aware of time when immersing yourself.Stay away from any app or game that requires playstore components! Play Games for leaderboards might be no issue, especially if you don't need this feature. Online gaming like multiplayer actions will not work if it requires Google services for it! Similar story for hardware you don't have. If it is only designed for touchscreens than it might not work with the remote. And if it does not support gampads either... Apps that only support the wrong display orientation are a no go too.What Non-VR Stuff Actually Works on the GO?A lot and it will be possible to do even more. There are already streaming options for your own videos like Skybox, Moonplayer and they all support DLNA servers too. So watching normal, 3D or VR movies from a media server is no problem at all already. Getting games to work is another story all up. ALVR is a good platform to stream VR games from your PC to the GO. Unlike the Rift you won't even need an overpowered gaming PC for it. Virtual Desktop is a paid app but well worth the money if the support and features keep going as they do right now. With it you can use your computer or laptop from the GO. Watch movies, surf the net, play games. The GO more or less becomes a normal Windows computer only that you have the screen right in front of you.It will certainly be possible to code a simple VR app that works as a shortcut for non-VR apps. Like how right now you get the pic and description for a VR exerience and a button that starts the stream in the player. Downside is the requirement to certify such an "app" to make it visible in the normal launcher.Downloads and Instructions....Finally you get to the point where you can actually download something :)To make it all a bit easier and to ensure I won't miss a vital bit I did a factory reset on my GO to start from scratch :(Things might change in the future, so I will include the instructions as texfiles with the download.If I see a real requirement for screenshots I will include them with corresponding filenames.I think this way it is easier than scrolling through an Instructable as you can just print it all directly.Those without an account (yet) might value this too.Based on the feedback, questions and general comments I will change the contents of the download accordingly.Same for download links to avoid bloating up the download with outdated files.Easier for you (if you read this a few months from now) to download the newest files directly from the source.So don't be too disappointed if the download seems to contain less than what you expected.What seems to be missing will have links in the instructions.No files will come from unverified or unsecure sources!Whatever I include in the downloads directly will be checked for malware of all kinds.The same standards are true for the sources I provide.So no clickbait, ad sponsored re-directors or such crap.Please read the detailed instructions carefully, then read them again while actuall following the steps on your GO or computer.Do not blindly read it and jump onto doing it the first read!For ADB commands just copy and paste them - I might write some batch files though, so check for them in the instructions and make use of them.Things might not work out as planned, so if in doubt double check all the steps taken.What is in the provided instructions is tested on my GO's and works on the firmware version current of this writing.Download the guide and files from FilefactoryIn case the PDF in the download is not detailed enough, just ask in the comments ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


I need an air moisture meter and possibly a thermometer in one.

Good day,I am trying to find a moisture and temperature meter (possibly in one). It will be a used in a beehive. During the winter the bees cluster together to keep warm. Warm air rises up and gets in contact with the cold ceiling. It cools off and releases moisture. The water then starts dripping down and creates a mess of wet bees and mold. Opening the hive during the winter is not recommended till temperatures get back over 40F. Proper ventilation is possible to achieve through the design of the beehive but i would like to know the level of moisture and temperature if i was to just walk next to the beehive. I have seen a few instructibles about moisture meters but they are geared more toward soil moisture. I need it for the air. The system could be powered by a rechargeable battery and a solar panel - i can take care of that myself. Thanks.

Topic by PavelA12   |  last reply


Site updates, upcoming changes and developments

As it seems the support team is still working hard to improve this ection I would like to take the opportunity to provide a base for everyone.Users can post bugs they find, feedback or suggestions for features they would like to see or have here.The support team could be so nice to keep us updated about what is planned and when to expect some problems or hick ups.Maybe even a list of things already in the planning for us.There is already a quite long list of requests that grew over the years, so maybe the support team could start the conversation with some infos? ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Replies for questions and topics still not working

I tried for about half an hour to answer some questions but gave up due to being unable to enter any text.Logging out and back did not help, same for a reboot.Guess I am not the only one trying to answer things to no avail....And by the way: Do we get a fix for the useless categories?Fail to see the point of selecting a catergory and channel if nothing ever appears in said areas...

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply