Enter a contest twice

Is it allowed to enter 2 different projects in the pcb contest?https://www.instructables.com/contest/pcbcontest/

Topic by FriedZombie   |  last reply

A good glue to stick aluminized Mylar to PET

We are making a parabolic solar hot water heater and have been working on it for several years now.  We have been searching for a better glue to stick the 8' x 4' sheet of aluminized Mylar to the PET backing.  We have tried everything from axel grease to double-sided tape but really need something that we can roll on with a paint roller, that won't eat the Mylar (which is basically plastic) and which will allow us at least 5 minutes to place the Mylar and to move it around a little until it is in position - and then harden. The most recent type of glue we were looking at was something like the glue that comes in a small stick that kids use for making things with paper - a glue stick i think it's called.  However this is not liquid enough to be able to be applied with a roller (i suspect we need a roller in order to get it on fast before it sets). Anyway, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!  Have a super morning!  :)

Topic by frazelle09   |  last reply

Roberts Clock Radio - dimmer - Model CRD 26

Clock working fine except that when it is dark there is no time displayed and it is obvious that the dimmer is sensitive.Open up the clock by removing four tiny posidrive screws and carefully prising the top and bottom apart. ( preferably with a plastic prising tool to avoid damaging it). Disconnect the supply to clock. Small white two pin plug in the motherboard attached to dimmer. Remove plug and short out (connect together) the two pins that it plugs into. For a simple repair push some aluminium foil trimmed to size (like the thickness of aluminium foil on shop bought mice pies) between them. This will eliminate the dimmer and allow the time to be displayed in the dark. unaffected by the dimmer.. OR simply snip the red and black wires and join them together.These clocks cost about £60.00 so it's worth doing.

Topic by poor1 

Can somebody make an Instructable item for me?

Hi,I'm creating a show and have just seen an Instructsble "Ghost Knocker" that was posted about 6 years ago.It's exactly what I've been looking for a long time. It's not possible for me to make it due to time constraints etc and want to ask if there is anybody in the community who could make one for me. It uses an Arduino unit.The link to buy the kit is no longer available and electronics are not my strong point...If there's anyone out there who can then please let me know and an estimate of the cost and time-frame etc.Link: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Gh...ThanksLanceS24

Topic by LanceS24 

How do you hook up a linear actuator to be controlled with PWM / R/C?

Hi Everybody, I'm working on a robotics project requiring strong linear actuators(LAs). For the most part I see that using LAs is the same as using DC motors. The red and black cables of the LA would connect to the motor +/- terminals of a motor controller. The main power source would connect to the battery +/- terminals of the motor controllers, and the motor controllers input could then come from a microcontroller or single board computer (SBC) using PWM / R/C control. This should allow me to control the direction and the speed of extension. However, for my application I and going to need multiple LAs the need to extend exactly in sync. The best way I can think to do that is to sense their individual extensions and program the LAs so that they stay in sync with each other. From what I've seen what I'm looking for are LAs with built-in limit switches and potentiometers.  What I don't know is how to hook these up to their motor controllers and microcontroller/SBC. An example I'm looking at is this one from Firgelli Automations: http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=94&products;_id=159. Unlike hobby servos this LA has 5 wires. Two are the positive and negative power wires and the other three relate to the potentiometer. I know you can control the extension this way but so far I've only found youtube videos and couldn't see how they hooked everything up. This datasheet for different LA (http://www.firgelli.com/Uploads/L12_datasheet.pdf) helped me understand what the potentiometer wires do, but not how to use them with a PWM microcontroller. Does anybody have experience with this? Thanks for reading

Topic by honor_the_ways   |  last reply

Robotics Aspirant

Hello Great Mind. I am interested in Robotics but I don't know where to start. I think I will be needing an instructor, too. I really need your help and advice.

Topic by LoloN1   |  last reply

3.7v LED driver

Hi guys how are ya doin? :DRecently I'm working on the next project, which is about battery powered bicycle led lamp. So in that case I want to use LED driver. Then I've founded this schematic with CMOS 555 timer, who runs more than 5 LEDs in series. Excited by this new found schematic, I bought the parts & connected them like so. Unfortunately, it turns out, it wont work. :/ At 3.7v they won't even light up, but at 5v they start to shine a little bit. I'm wondering do I need to put different transistor (in my case it was PN2222A - that's the one I had and its equivalent to 2N4401)? Or what the problem with this circuit.I would more than thankful for your help. :D

Topic by JohnSmith-Workshop   |  last reply

Jaswinder Brar: Seeking Developer Team for New Product Design Inventions!

Hello I am an avid inventor of new product designs:I am currently working on Project: Foam-Fan: For Global Cooling Prize:See Details Here:https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/richard-bransons-gl...I have entered my preliminary submission, received great feedback from GCP, and I am now seeking a developer team to help prototype this invention for the next stage of submissions.Feel encouraged to browse my Product Design Inventions on Twitter (User: @jay_bee12345) and message me back if you'd like to collaborate on developing my product design works. Details:https://twitter.com/jay_bee12345I also regularly post and update Product Design Articles on LinkedIn, Let's Connect!Example:https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/2-new-nokia-inventi...My LinkedIn Profile:https://www.linkedin.com/in/jaswinder-brar-8098791...Let's Work Together & Innovate the World!Thank You.Jaswinder Brar.Calgary, Alberta, Canada.JSB23@hotmail.CA

Topic by JaswinderBrar 

ATtiny85 IR USB receiver that works with any IR remote!!

Hello everybody, I have made my own USB IR receiver using and Arduino to program the core of the project which is an attiny85. I dealt with a lot of issues and got desperate as well trying to put it together. After many hours of study and research on the Internet I came up with a solid procedure to make it work. Now I enjoy my own receiver that I can program to work with any remote. The procedure is not easy, so I made my own guide for future reference that evolved into an instructable to return to the community of makers and developers part of what I have got from them:\ https://dltutuapp.com/ dltutuapp.com/ showbox.red/

Topic by achanakbhayank 

Remote Access and Control for various Sensor Data and Output Devices

I am working on a project that involves multiple sensors as well as a handful of output devices, and am looking for the best solution on how to collect data from the sensors, have certain actions occur based off of the sensor input, as well as be able to have a web-accessible page where the logged data could be viewed. Additionally, I would also like to be able to modify certain variables (such as changing thresholds for when output devices are activated, for how long they are activated, etc) on the webpage. A very similar solution to a different situation that I am familiar with is OctoPrint. With OctoPrint, you can view your 3D printer live from the comfort of any machine on the network, as well as send custom commands to it, or even initiate prints. My application would be very similar to what OctoPrint offers, with the addition of being able to view collected data from sensors, as well as changing variables within scripts. The current hardware I plan on using consists of an Arduino as an analog to digital converter for the analog sensors, as well as the controller for relays and other output devices. The Arduino would be plugged into a Raspberry Pi (or really any machine would work, I think), which is essentially how an OctoPrint setup works. Ideally, I would like to have the Raspberry Pi act as the webserver/host (I would be the only individual accessing the webpage, so a pi should be enough for that? If another computer would be needed to host the webpage, then Ideally I would like to omit the pi altogether.)I would like the input data to be logged and displayed in a graphical manner, through graphs and charts. A friend recommended using a database, such as MySQL; is this a good option, or is there something that would be more efficient? The control/data page wouldn't necessarily need to be accessible to the world wide web, although that would be convenient (I would prefer not needing to pay for a domain though). So long as I could access it from the local network, that would suffice.If there is some program/software that allows me to do all/most of this, that'd be great. Otherwise, I'm just looking for input on what would be the most optimal route going about this. Ideally the less complicated the better, but I'm not afraid of learning new things.

Topic by RocketPenguin   |  last reply

Portable media build parts question

I'm looking to build a portable gaming and media station but I'm stuck on a couple things and am hoping people here might have some suggestions and/or links. Basically, I bought a large aluminum camera case, big enough to hold a 22" led tv in the lid. I am going to mount the tv in the lid, thinking of just drilling the holes and mounting the tv directly to the lid. Any critiques or problems with that would be nice.Second, I'm going to mount a ps3, a portable media player (think Von Haus) which uses flash drives or portable hard drive via US, and a retropie system. Now where I'm running into trouble is two-fold. One is how to mount the items into the case. Foam would normally work well, but I'm worried about heat reduction, less so for the media player and more for the ps3 and retropie. I'm also worried about having it hardmounted onto the case via glue gun because of any shocks it might get while in transport. I also want to dremel http://movieseriesworld.com/ out in the front and the back, and put in ports to be able to connect to an outside source as needed. Basically, I need a number of connectors which mount inside with the port leading out. USB 2/3, HDMI, RCA cable connector (RWY). I can find extension cables, but what I'm more looking for is, say for USB, a male lead on one end to connect to the ps3, and a female lead on the other end which sits inside case but is dremel'ed out to be able to connect a USB from the outside, basically a plate which I can just screw in. Something similar to what you'd find inside a console or similar. Anything which anyone can help with on any of these would be greatly appreciated Thanks...

Topic by Henrryparth 

Automated plastic waste collection device

Does anyone have an idea about collecting plastic waste from lakes and rivers?If you do share your ideas it should be a machine which is automated to collect plastic waste from water.

Topic by ZaynH   |  last reply

How do I calculate what resistor I would need?

Ok, so I'm working on a project. I need to know how I can reduce 18volts down to 12volts. If someone would explain how to calculate this myself I can figure out what resistor (or series of resistors) I need.

Topic by the.texas.trucker   |  last reply

Free IC Samples: Good or Bad

Every now and then I order a sample of an integrated circuit from companies such as TI, Atmel, or Microchip. But can I get too many. If I order too many do you think they will catch on to my using of their free samples for hobby use and not research? I stopped ordering because I am afraid they might start charging me for all the chips I ordered. What's your opinion?

Topic by gimmelotsarobots   |  last reply

Feature Requests: Instructables Editor

Insert TablesCan we have an easy way to insert tables in an Instructable? It's a really arduous task to use the HTML editor to display information in a tabular form.Some use cases for tables: Parts & Material List - includes Part specifications, type, quantity, link, etc Electronic Connections - E.g: If an Arduino is connected to a sensor. The Arduino pins are in one column while the sensor pins are in another column. Explaining Code Snippets (see attached image)Embed GitHub Repository Maintaining code is made easy with services like GitHub especially if you want to make updates or bug fixes. You may have come across an Instructable wherein the code no longer works since it was based on outdated libraries & dependencies. It also encourages users to collaborate thereby keeping the code updated. You can also store electronic schematics, 3D printing files, laser cutting files, etc. Code SnippetsI know its currently possible to highlight code within an Instructable. Example:digitalWrite(led,HIGH); In the above case, the entire line is a code snippet.But what if my intention was to explain the function 'digitalWrite()' and instead only want to highlight the word 'digitalWrite()'.This is how it will look in the current editor:If the pin is configured as an INPUT, digitalWrite() will enable (HIGH) or disable (LOW) the internal pullup on the input pin.Just my 2 Rupees.#Feedback

Topic by Jonathanrjpereira   |  last reply

VR gaming parties anyone?

Last week I was "volunteered" by friend to help setting up a rented and empty factory building for what he called a VR gaming party.My job was down to somehow get enough cables and power outlets from that rented industrial power box inside the building.And well, organising about 800m of network cables with routers, switches and whatnots :(After a hard days work and testing all we went for a well deserved beer.Next day I pooped in to see how the computers are going and where things like tables, catering stations, portable toilets and so would go.Well, the later ended outside for various reasons...To my surprise all hardware was basically boxed in and then padded all around.And although not even running at full capacity the computers already created a lot of heating the building.(Mind you we getting into the summer here)The most confusing thing was seeing several elevated work platforms with people creating a maze of wires about 2.5m above floor level.Now it dawned on me that this "party" might slightly more than what I was used to in my gaming years.Was curious enough to ask if I could jump in again when the actual thing starts and was invited for a quick test later that night.Walking around in an empty building while thinking you are inside some racing game was a strange thing to say the least.I learned why there where two people around me and my brain not always makes the right decisions without the sensory information provided by my ears matching what my eyes see.A bit later when most players where set up and active I realised that this type of VR is not for me.Ever seen those movies where someone has really bad halucinations and tries to fight against something that is not really there?Yes, that is exactly how it looked like LOLSometimes all is in slow motion then suddenly they jump shoot their virtual guns and go for cover...I guess if you are not in it then you just won't understand.Watching the screens for a while I could at least find some relation to the action but it was like another world if you know what I mean ;)What do you think will the near a slightly further future bring us in terms of virtual reality?Will it affect us as badly as social media and mobile phones already do or will it bring some real benefits for everyone?By the way: Virtual Reality Cars are already in the design visions!Self driving cars that put you into another world while driving - why think you sit in the car if you can put the seat back and immerse yourself into a virtual beach?

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply

Arduino Outdoor Security System - PIR Motion Sensor, Security Lights, Intruder Warning/Alarm & Blynk Notification

I would like to ask your suggestions on how to build an outdoor ESP2866 security and sensors combo. I have seen separate postings on PIR and lights around the site and in other websites so I thought it would be doable. I knew Arduino then but only paid close attention when I realized that my x-10s are outmoded but z-wave devices are expensive. So I am learning about it, how to sketch and trying to understand C++ more. My dream is to build an outdoor ESP2866 combo, powered by an AC120v-5v module, with two PIR motion sensors, three 120v relay switches (two relays for two sets of security floodlights and one relay for an amp/wave speaker with mic), a photo (dusk/dawn) sensor and temperature/humidity sensor (for a future thermostat). Operationally, I imagine that it could be armed and disarmed through Blynk. When armed at daytime, a motion will trigger a low volume intruder MP3 warning alert with 10 minutes of security lights at night. But if the trigger persists for more than 5 minutes, the security floodlights will blink, a loud intruder alarm will sound and push phone notifications. What will be the best way to sketch these? What is the better way of wiring them together? How could I make multiple ESP2866s in the same WAN work together for an event? The desired function is if an alarm event is triggered in one of the ESP2866 that would also set off blinking lights and alarm sounds in the other ESPs. Thanks for all your help.

Topic by EeA2   |  last reply

Bug, Suggestion, Feedback! Community sections

Since there is no place for it right now I just created a topic for the purpose of collecting bugs we find.Let me start with a little list I collected so far:1. Confusion!When I create a new topic I need to select a category and channel.So where exactly are these categories and channels?Somehow I struggle to find them anywhere else than in the two drop down menus when creating a new topic.If we have all those drop down options then why can't we make proper use of them?2. List problems!I know there is planned work on the way we see the cummunity section but still...When I create a new topic then it seems to be nowhere.I check again a few hours later and still nowhere.Next day often the same storey.Where does a new topic go and when does it appear in the community section?3. Sorting - this one is already being worked on I guess.We really need a working option to sort postings and replies by time and date and relation.I get notified about a reply and check...Hmm, about 80 replies and somehwere, someone wrote something new...Good if you can copy and past a part of the preview to search for it in the browser manually...Comfort and logic is needed to replace the current confusion and inconsistences.As for suggestions to get the section up to what what both developers and users turn into happy campers:1. Editing options!!!For years this is my number one that not just got more and more ignored but also reduced to nothing.Anyone creating a topic should have direct control over it.This means beain able to create the post in a way the poster sees fit for the purpose.The basic text editing options any Vbulletin or PhPBB board would offer should be available here in a similar way.Embedded text and images in the size and place that fits - either by posters choice for the size on the screen or by providing a fixed sized preview that opens a fullsie view when clicking on it.Code is more important these days than back then when I first asked for option to embed it here.Tags are useful for a lot of things.Add a quote from a previous post or reply, add a code window that allows proper copy and past action for both poster and reader (preferably with highlighted syntax like in Notepadd++, ....You can only provide dedicated help if you have the right tools for it.And you can not ask for dedicated help if you can even properly post the problem due to restrictions and limitations in the editing system.Coloered text, other than for code is not really required but all the basics anyone knows froma real forum would be a great addition.2. Tagging or otherserwise highlighting the areas of the topic.If I already create a post in the technology section than it would only make sense to see a corresponding icon next to the topic in the community section.Same for coding help, mechanical problems and so on.The current sections and categories are outdated and a lot of things are missing.Mabye not in terms of Intructables but certainly for the community sections.3. Structure....Currently it is all one big blob and not even the sorting works (yet).This is perfect for people like me wanting to quickly check if something new was posted but not so good for someone trying to have some fun browsing.Imagine you want to spend some quality time checking what problems people have or what help they seek when it comes to woodworking.No search options, no list options, no categories to explore.Back in the day we had a few sections and a basic sorting option, like by most recent.Someone only interested in helping with coding on Arduino wouldn't even bother here and move on.On the other hand, people with no clue how to fully specify their problem might find a solution just by browsing through the corresponding section.4. Linking Instructables....I don't know the reason for it or the idea behind it but why again is the question section filled with Instructables?And why look lot of Tips like Instructables?I mean if it is for the user to find stuff than it might bind him on the website, but I doubt it will be satisfactory for the user.Questions or tips in regards to an Instrubale should be there- with the Instructable but not in the community section.Add it a tab for the Ible instead...I see little to no point in answering to a question someone has in regards to a specific Ible unless "I made it"....5. Voting and closing...When it comes to forums then one thing all have in common: bloat.People only register to post something but never come back.Topics are solved, done and dusted.Topics gone dormant for months or even years.Great answers or vital details get lost.The list goes on....What it comes down to is that order needs to be restored and maintained.Open an archive section and start moving out.Topics of certain age and with no new replies - gone.Topics where the user never again logged in - gone.Topics voted or request to be closed, closed or gone to the ariche as well.Topics voted to be of general interest pinned somewhere for easy reference - like this one ;)A thread starter got his answer and is happy? Then for crying out loud let him vote or credit the best answer and close the topic.More than three people voted or tagged a topic as useless, not possible or similar - close it so it can one day go in the archive section too.All this and more should create a community section that once again can become an active playground for everyone.A place to seek and find help.And who knows, maybe some of the good old guys might even consider a return and more time spent here....

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply

signals for Model railways

I made the signal. I will show it soon.

Topic by paul Fast post   |  last reply

Iron Man's Repulsors

How would you build iron mans repulsors? I have some already...     You could use a transducer for particle displacement, you might be able to send an ion beam through a "tunnel" of a heavier particle, since it can't travel fast in air. I need ideas! Thanks, Laserbeamtoast.

Topic by Laserbeamtoast   |  last reply

Specific replacement wire to use for battery-pack?

Hi all,after finding an old etchingpen and opening it up to (see picture)needless to say i need to replace the coil-wire. is there a specific or special material to use here? i assume i can't just use any wire...i'm an electric-noob, so please be clear and don't use to much specific termonology - i probably won't understand! :PThnxz in adance

Topic by Brian M V   |  last reply

5v to 12v convert

Hello, I want to connect a portable solar powered rechargeable to 2 DC fans of 12v to cool my car. 1. I have 2 options of portable solar powered: (A) 1500mAh, outputs: 5.5V / 800mA (B) 2000mAh, outputs: 5V 500mA     which one is preffered to connect to those PC fans? 2. most of the PC fans are working at 12v. I don't quite sure if I'll build simple 5v to 12v regulator it will works and produce enough airflow. Thanks.

Topic by ashakif   |  last reply

Does anyone know a way to sense the temperature of perspex sheet?

I have a project in which I need to know the temperature of the perspex in a perspex sheet (so I can control aforesaid temperature). The Temperature sensors I know (TMP35-TO92) are okay for getting atmospheric temperature but no good for this.Has anyone a solution to the problem?Thanks

Topic by vagulus   |  last reply

Converting a Radio Flyer Classic Trike to an e-Trike

Hi. I've been looking at the Radio Flyer Classic trike for kids and realise it would be the ideal project to convert into an e-trike . Would welcome recommendations and best practice to do this . Component -wise , most important to consider ( slimline battery shape , throttle ( reverse feature) , fixed drive shaft ), front fixed foot holder. This would be my first project on Instructables and would love to document and share based on best feedback options adopted . Thanks!

Topic by greenwichmytime   |  last reply

What can be the problem with this circuit?

I built this Opto Sensitive Dimmer's dimmer part first just one led the Orange is light. but can be the problem? I built this on a test board so sorry for the soldering.

Topic by bothbence62   |  last reply

Recommendations for lipo cutoff device

I've been looking for a device similar to a battery alarm for 4s lipos that can cut off the power when any one of the cells drops below a certain voltage instead of just sounding an alarm, i've been told that i can get a bms circuit which should be able to do this and that i should try to find the best one i can but i don't really know exactly what to search for. can someone recommend a small and affordable bms please? i won't be charging through it as i have a separate balance charger, i want it purely as a cut off device for when the batteries are in use...

Topic by ambientvoid   |  last reply

Adding USB storage to Bluetooth device?

Hey diyers, I am looking for info. I recently picked up a mini Bluetooth keyboard/mouse combo. I got it for retro gaming. I was wondering if it were possible to add USB storage inside the keyboard and transmit the data via Bluetooth. Thinking I could use it to store save files so I have them no matter what PC I play on

Topic by turnafraze   |  last reply

Very old and New topics getting mixed up

We are still getting very old topics (questions) and the newer ones mixed together.

Topic by rickharris   |  last reply

Vertical Axis Wind Turbine - What is the best airfoil?

I've always been interested in windmills. The vertical axis wind turbine (VAWT) seem really cool. I discovered there is a company that (under contract) assembles them right here in my state of Michigan. So, on our summer vacation last year I diverted the family unit over to the assembly plant to see what's new, and exciting. Well, guess what, the plant is closed on weekend. Who knew. Well, for one, Momma thought I should have. Oh well, we got to see their demo unit Windspire up close anyway. It was just whipping. Anyway, to my question, if I wanted to build a really efficient VAWT, what would be the best shape for the airfoil? I've attached an old patent I found that has a drawing (Patent 4247252). I copied the drawing into Inkscape and redrew the airfoil using bezel curves. But, is this the best shape to start with? I'm hoping some aeronautical engineer out there can comment. Thanks, Jim

Topic by jimk3038   |  last reply

Rugged external pull up/down resistor connection

How do you people install a pull up/down resistor in a very stable rugged way.I want to hook up a pull up resistor to a sensor but I only have a cheap color coded resistor and if I solder it would be a messy hack and not a rugged long term solution. Of course I would like to buy a rugged solution, but I hit a wall with google, maybe my keywords aren't right. But I am pretty sure i am not the only one with this issue.Rufus MapQuest UpToDate

Topic by cjmaverickforever   |  last reply

Programación de Modulo De UltraSonido

En esta prueba de la programación del Modulo de Ultra sonido hubieron varios inconvenientes al al principio, por ejemplo al programarlo por 1ra vez y al colocarlo en el suelo el robot no detectaba los objetos que se aproximaban a el, creímos que tal vez faltaba calibrarlo.Al programarlo por 2da ocasión el robot ya detectaba los objetos, el problema era que no daba la vuelta, simplemente se quedaba estático, creíamos que fue porque la batería estaba descargada. Al pasar 20 - 25 minutos tal vez el problema era que se necesitaba aumentar la velocidad del coche. Eran simples errores, esperemos que al hacer esto y les pasen los mismos errores que a nosotros,

Topic by ReneSantana 

PWM to MPPT solar Charge Controller

I have an Hybrid Solar Inverter with 50A PWM solar charge controller inbuilt into it. It works on 24V battery bank. I am having 800Watt of PV module installed in the system. As my inverter is having PWM charge controller, I am not able to harvest maximum of power from panels. I want to know that, is there any arrangement or device which can be put in between PV panel and my Inverter which can increase efficiency or can act as PWM to MPPT converter for my Inverter? My Solar Pannels generates often 39V but I couldnt utilize the surplus power as it stepped down to 24 Volt.

Topic by Shashi BhushanS   |  last reply

Circuit design

Hi, I’m hoping someone could help me. I’m looking to design a circuit for a college project that controls a 240v light. The circuit and light will be controlled by a switch however when the switch is first turned on the light needs to remain off (no power supplied) regardless of the amount of time the switch is on. If however the switch was turned on off and on again then the light needs to come on. Any ideas of a circuit and components required to produce something like this? Your help is greatly appreciated.

Topic by Worby10   |  last reply

I need to know how to make a dc male jack with battery clip

I have a dc male jack and a battery clip.separately.i need to know how to connect .this is from a project i saw in instructables.please help.

Topic by ABhiramS5   |  last reply

Why don't old /community/* urls redirect to new /topics/* urls????

All of the older links to a topics on Instructables link to instructables.com/community/page urls, but a while ago (I'm not sure exactly when) all the /community/* pages were moved to /topics/*. Clicking the old /community links returns a 404 error, which is annoying because then I have to manually replace the "community" with "topics" in the url. So my question is, why can't all the /community/*/ pages redirect to their respective /topics/*/ pages?

Topic by scitronboy 

(EMP generator)How can i make a long range EMP generator?

I have watched many video in youtube about, how to make EMP generator. But those EMP's range are really small, I want to make a EMP that can disable any electric device around me like, Disabling all the device in my room. So can Anyone help me with this??

Topic by harryt47   |  last reply

An idea for highly directional and loud loudspeakers

I am currently playing around with vibration experiments.Mainly in the ultrasonic range though.But when messing around with some vibration speakers I found a not so well documented misuse for themEveryone wants a big TV these days but once you have it the sound often turns out to come from a tin can.Those with a good entertainment or at least stereo system won't mind hooking the to it.The rest usually opts for a sound bar or how I like to call them shredderbox.Sooner or later they just fail to produce the sound you had on the first day - or they cost a small fortune.What is the secret to a powerful speaker?Firstly efficiency.Secondly the design.You need the right material to produce a more or less even reaction at all intendet frequencies.The design makes sure those frequencies that need extra attention get more volume output, like by using a little pipe for the low frequencies.Some even include a dedicate speaker for these low volumes.What if you could just build you own soundbar on a budget?If you have a failing soundbar with the actual speakers as the problem you could salvage the electronics.In case you can make do with headphone input or RCA connections than any cheap amplifier will do.Leaves the speakers...Vibration speakers are still underestimated for their uses...I tried the the usual approach of using a glue on vibro speaker:Place it on surface tha gives a re more or less decent sound.The thing is though that there is no ideal surface for them.A table can sound like the highs are missing, a hardwood desk might not produce any low frequencies while a window or plaster board wall bring the problem of wiring and vibrations.To check the reactions of sound on different media I, one day, mounted one speaker under a big tin can.Right in the center.The fun hit me when my tests with water were over and tried to play a song with the empty can.Of course there was some degree of tin can sound but the directional qualities together with the wide frequency spectrum made me experiment.The key is to find the right material and shape!You want something that is hard enough to vibrate properly but soft enough to allow for lower frequencies.I tried pipes, boxes, old plastic containers....But nothing seemed to provide a broad and even sound spectrum without distortions.If you vibrate a surface then only at certain, resonant frequencies destinct patterns will form if some dust or similar is place on the surface.In all other cases there is only chaos.Preventing the harmonics to form prevents harmonic vibrations to build up to distortion levels.Like it or not but waste seems to work just fine as a speaker ;)I made a plug to fit reall tight into a 2 liter juice bottle neck.The original plastic cap is just too soft.A vibro speaker glued onto the plug and the bottom of the bottle cut out and the soun was quite impressive.Proper use is however limited as the speaker would need to be mounted upright.Next thought was to utilise the bottom of the bottle too.By cutting a round hole in the side of the bottle I got an even more directional speaker with a better response to low frequencies.Placement of said hole of course affect how certain frequencies travel and where nodes can form.The size might also matter as the hoe itself, or better the material around it can get resonant at certain frequencies.You can cheat at bit though by using sticky tape, duct tape and so on as dampening meterial in badly affected areas.Especially with a wall mount for the speaker and the bottle hanging down behind the TV the effect is good compared to a standard shredderbox. The above design is certainly not for everyone although I think it has a wow factor to it if you show a decent sound coming out of a juice bottle ;)My next step was trying to find out how more fancy designs could work.So just stop reading here unless you like the idea of creating speakers that should not even work.Back in the old days we had more than just the speakers with magnets and cones.Anything that can vibrate can produce sound.It all depends on how much of it we can actually hear.My first exotic idea to really misuse a vibro speaker is a vibrating harp.Does not need to be in the classic shape though.A string in a resonance box, like a harp, guitar, violine and so on will start to vibrate at the set note.This is true even if the force for the vibration is external.You might remember the old school experiment with the two pitch forks on their boxes?Hit one and the other starts to swing too.If you make a resonance box for a vibro speaker with internal or external wire strings at different tensions or lengths you can amplify the sound for the notes that correspond to the strings.Make a relatively large box with some sturdy wires for the frequencies between 60 and 100Hz and you have a really powerful subwoofer from just 20W of input power...I think you get the idea on how to use amplifying strings now ;)My second and total misuse is the xmas tree.If you are a sparky by old trades then you might remember the mechanical frequency meters for generators or other things that required a stable supply.Well, if not than you should know the little wind up toys that play a melody with a drum and tiny forks.Imagine you would replace the glue plate with a rod.Depending on material and length harmonic nodes will form at various places and frequencies.Between those nodes the swing is maximised while the node itself appear to be stationary and without and vibrations at all.For example a steel rod of 1.2m would have a single standing wave at about 1kHz while a copper rod of the same lenght will be much lower in the frequency for a single standing wave.The xmas tree assumes that the rod is of such material that no single standing wave can form below 200Hz and that it won't swing too much at other resonant frequencies.Since aluminium is easy to work with and available in flat and thin bars already it would be my first choice for the branches of the tree.The required length is calculate based on the speed of sound in aluminium - you find online calculators for that.You want the lenght so that you end up with an even fraction of the wavelength you want to "play" with that strip.This allows for the rod to be placed right in the center of the strip where the standing wave movement is zero in the node.Make a lot of thin strips to get a broad frequency response.Placement on the rod can now be crucial.The best option I found so far is using a threaded rod and tapping the holes in the strips.The strips swing quite violently if long and at certain frequencies.And those not in resonance will still transfer their momentum to other strips.This can cause unwanted harmonics.Most evident when a single strips swigns violently at a certain frequencies.Adjusting the angle by turning it is often enough to get out of the overlapping harmonics.With enough strips it then really looks like a tree with flat branches.The sound might not be as loud and impressive as a plastic bottle as the virations are going up and down.But if placed in the right spot it not just looks nice but also makes people wonder where the sound is coming from.Last but not least my yet to be tested hidden speaker system - due to renting restrictions :(If you own a house of the standard frame design then you have plasterboard walls and ceilings.With a large enough surface of the right material, one or two vibro speakers can cover a really wide frequency range at good volume levels.So far I could only do tests in an old wooden window frame but the priciple works the same way between the wooden frames of a wall or ceiling.In my experiments a standard plasterboard sheet needs to be 100 x 100cm to get a more or less decent response for the lower frequencies.Before you rip your walls down use a stud finder and place your vibro speaker on the plasterboard between two studs or beams.I found that two speakers for the lower frequencies and three or four for the higher ones make a good sound.That is per channel and if you have the right size plasterboard sheet in the right place.No point if your left side is further away from the TV than your right.Ideally you replace the entire sheet with the speaker in the right spot on the new sheet but on the back.For obvious reasons this is far from being a perfect solution.But if you plan a full renovation anyway...A way out for older houses is the wooden floorboards.They make excellent resonators for low frequencies.The directional speakers could then still be hidden in picture frames of the right thickness and design.Anyways, I hope I gave you some ideas here ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 

Magnets in the Microwave, can you do it?

So does anyone know if you can put a magnet in the microwave? Will it cause some nuclear explosion, or rocket me back into time? Or will it just stay on my mug and witness the warming of my beverage?

Topic by Punkergal   |  last reply

Any idea on how to bypass Iboss Webfilter on Mac OS? Challenge!

My computer teacher gave us a challenge: our school used to have filters on most of it's computers, but they were taken down and replaced with something else. As a challenge, our computer teacher re-installed it on some computers and told us to try to get through it. I have had little success, my most promising moment being with a glitch in Firefox, that soon fixed itself and ruined my only gateway. To win the challenge, You have to get onto Facebook, myspace, and twitter, all of which are on the blacklist. Once there, you must post into a specific profile. You must do this three separate times, to illustrate that it can be done more than once. I know it is possible, because two other kids in the class have managed it, but I simply have no idea. The program is Iboss Webfilter by Phantom Technologies, and all of our computers are pretty new Macs. We have access on our computers to Firefox, Safari, Seamonkey, Camino, and Omniweb browsers. All proxy websites are blocked by the webfilter program. All firefox abilities are enabled though. Any and all suggestions or help is appreciated, If we pass the challenge, we get an automatic 100% in the class, because we have probably the coolest computer teacher ever. If anyone can give me a good solution that works, they get a patch!

Topic by ilpug   |  last reply

How does one sort questions by date of submission?

Hi all,It's been a while since I've been to instructables. I see that Questions are back, but they seem to be listed randomly. one will be "posted 9 years ago", followed immediately by one the was "posted 6 days ago" followed by one that was "posted 3 years ago" etc.I don't see any ability to sort by date, although I suspect I'm simply unfamiliar with the new layout.Any help would be appreciated.PS> If some iblesfolk sees this post, I'd like to thank you for implementing post editing. It was always an aggravation to me that I'd have to delete a post in order to correct a misspelled word or otherwise fix some grammatical or cognitive error. Thanks also for implementing the menu bar above posts. (B/I/U etc)dropping this into "websites<

Topic by seandogue   |  last reply

What is this tool

Does anyone know what this tool is?

Topic by weflyfish2   |  last reply

Stepper motor working with nrf51dk (problem with timer i think)

Hello everyone, I am trying to make a program that makes work a stepper motor 28BYJ-48, my stepper motor is well connected to the ULN2003 and the ULN2003 is well connected to my nrf51dk, here is a picture of my setup : https://coeleveld.com/arduino-stepper-uln2003a/I foloowed this tutorial and it worked with my Arduino, so I guess the problem is not coming from there.I am now making a program using the nrf51dk, I am using nrf51_sdk_10.0.0 and the ble_app_uart as an example, my project is to control the motor via Bluetooth.But for the moment I just would like to make the motor runing.so I follow the same principe of code as in the tutorial for making it work.I need a timer, so I also followed the "Application timer tutorial" from nordic :devzone.nordicsemi.com/.../application-timer-tutorialhere is my code that I Added to the ble_app_uart project ://At the top I define the differents gpios that I will have to use//and step_number that is a variable use to navigate threw the differents steps for the motor to work int step_number = 0; #define motorPin1 1 #define motorPin2 2 #define motorPin3 3 #define motorPin4 4 #define APP_TIMER_PRESCALER 15 /**< Value of the RTC1 PRESCALER register. */ #define APP_TIMER_OP_QUEUE_SIZE 5 /**< Size of timer operation queues. */ //I add 4 different timers, one for each pin APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step1); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step2); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step3); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step4); . . . //the code already defined in the existing project//Timeout handler for the repeated timer //I need 4 timeout handler, one foreach motorPin static void timer_a_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin1); } static void timer_b_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin2); } static void timer_c_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin3); } static void timer_d_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin4); } //Then I create the timers // Create timers static void create_timers() { uint32_t err_code1; uint32_t err_code2; uint32_t err_code3; uint32_t err_code4; // Create timers err_code1 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step1, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_a_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step2, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_b_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step3, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_c_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step4, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_c_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); } //And here is my main //with the loop to make work the motor the same way I did with the arduino, but adapting the code int main(void) { uint32_t err_code; uint32_t err_code1; uint32_t err_code2; uint32_t err_code3; uint32_t err_code4; bool erase_bonds; uint8_t start_string[] = START_STRING; // Initialize. APP_TIMER_INIT(APP_TIMER_PRESCALER, APP_TIMER_OP_QUEUE_SIZE, false); uart_init(); buttons_leds_init(&erase;_bonds); ble_stack_init(); gap_params_init(); services_init(); advertising_init(); conn_params_init(); printf("%s",start_string); err_code = ble_advertising_start(BLE_ADV_MODE_FAST); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code); create_timers(); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin1, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin2, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin3, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin4, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); // Enter main loop. for (;;) { uint8_t str1[1] = "1"; uint8_t str2[1] = "2"; uint8_t str3[1] = "3"; uint8_t str4[1] = "4"; switch(step_number){ case 0: err_code1 = app_timer_start(timer_step1, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str1, strlen((char*)str1)); break; case 1: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_start(timer_step2, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str2, strlen((char*)str2)); break; case 2: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_start(timer_step3, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str3, strlen((char*)str3)); break; case 3: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_start(timer_step4, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str4, strlen((char*)str4)); break; } step_number++; if(step_number > 3){ step_number = 0; } power_manage(); } }Probably I am doing Something wrong with the timer, because when I modify it and decide to use it with a led for testing like in the tutorial, the motor makes noise but doesn't move and the led works. If someone can help, it's been hours I am on this problem and I can't find my mistakes.

Topic by BenjaminP106 

forked threads and linear threads

Hi. It's about how are organized threads into forums. Currently forum threads are forked : you can reply to a comment separately, and each of your reply will make a new fork if somebody reply to your new comment ... this makes threads like trees ... Personally, I don't find this system very handy, more particularly when the same thing is being actively discussed in several forks. This system is good for short chats and when commenting instructables, but when it's about debating, it quickly becomes confusing ... For the forums, I'd prefer a system with a linear thread where messages are ordered according to time, and where we have to quote the persons we want to reply to. Several discussion could get "multiplexed" on the same thread, but personally, I find that less confusing as long as there are quotes. What's your preference ?

Topic by chooseausername   |  last reply

Instructables App

Hello, My daughter has recently discovered Instructables on my phone, and now she wants the app on hers.  Does anyone know what happened to it?  I have tried the Family Sharing feature for IOS; however, it isn't on my list of purchased apps... Thoughts?

Topic by cyberogre   |  last reply

A 5 gig file won't fit onto an empty 16 gig flash drive?

I have a 16 gigabyte flash drive that's relatively empty (13.7GB free space), and I was trying to put a 5 gigabyte .ISO file onto it.  However, when I try to copy the file to the flash drive, I get an error saying there is not enough space to put the file on the flash drive.  I know this is not true because I have over 13 gigs of free space. Is there any reason for this weird error and is there any fix? This is kinda important.

Topic by DJ Radio   |  last reply

Connect Arduino UNO to a Laser with TCP/IP or RS232 protocol

Hi everyone, I am trying to comunicate with a Laser via ethernet or RS232 but I realy don't find enough information in internet to make my sketch. For TCP/IP, I am using a ENC28J60.CLK ---> D8SO ---> D12SCK --->D13SI --->D11CS --->D10VCC --->3,3vGND --->GNDYou will find attached the manual for TCP/IP comunications that the laser company gave me.Finaly for RS232, I tried to use the TTL-RS232 module (MAX3232) to comunicate but I was not able to make it works. (attached the manual for RS232 comunications that the laser company gave me.RXD ---> RX 0 TXD ---> TX 1VCC ---> 5vGNS ---> GNDPlease could somebody helps me with the code. Thank you,Jonathan

Topic by JonathanP233   |  last reply

LINEAR ACTUATOR STEPPER MOTOR using Arduino Uno, DRV8825 and Sensor

Am already a year working as an amateur electronics. Sorry for my English, am 74 years and never learned the language. Now I'm managed to 17HS2408S, a DRV8825 with a servo and Arduino to this linear to run back and forth just over 35 cm (6400 full steps). This runs as desired in terms of distance. Now I would like to have with use of a Sensor that if he is activated the stepper make one run forward en back. To this end, the program should stop after one full run on contact from the sensor (Pir, LDR or photocell). Who can help me to customize the code that it stops after one time through the code, and how and where to connect a sensor to start the program.Foto connections and Servo_Test_3.ino

Topic by PierreV16 

How does one choose the right 100k potentiometer?

I am building a pickup winder... a simple machine that winds hair-thin copper wire around magnetic poles.I need to build a 12V DC geared electric motor speed controller. I bought the following...12V DC 1000RPM geared electric motorLCD punch digital counter with a magnetic proximity switch12V Double-Pole Double-Throw (DPDT) ON/OFF/ON toggle switchDC12V 2A Power Supply Adapter: AC100-240V to DC12V I know that a DC motor controller can be purchased for around $5-10, but since I am brand n00b to electronics, I want to take the opportunity to learn as much as I can by building everything (or as much as makes sense) myself. I found this Instrucable on building a DC motor speed controller. It seems simple enough, however, when I go to the Digi-Key website and look for 100k Ohm pots... there are a lot to choose from. I do not care about form factor. I have no size restraints or aesthetics. I just need a knob... that I can turn... that will allow me to set it to zero, switch the machine on and have the motor not turn at all... then slowly begin to spin as I turn the knob up to 10, and it is spinning at its top speed (1,000 rpm). This is the motor, this is the power supply, this is the counter, and this is the switch that I bought for this project. According to the instructable referenced above, I need: an IRF3205 mosfet, a 100k ohm potentiometer, and a heatsink. I do not yet have the vocabulary to even properly Google "How to tell which 100k ohm potentiometer works with a 12V DC motor..." Can someone please point me in the right direction?

Topic by Dolmetscher007   |  last reply

My draft does not want to upload...

Hi everybody,I decided to write my first instructable. It all went ok with text and inserting pictures but now it remains in my draft folder and I can not figure how to get it published...Can anybody assist me?THANKS !!!!Christophe.

Topic by Christophe - Beau Du Ciel   |  last reply

Arduino Help (again) - For some reason map() is messing up my analogRead value

Hi again.I am still messing around with this Arduino and have hit another barrier. I have given up on the last idea. This time I am trying to make 5 LED's light up as I turn the potentiometer. I assigned all the pins to what they were (names and pinMode() ). I then, just to see if I was actually getting the wanted value, I made it write to the serial monitor. Before using map(), when turned fully one direction it read 0 and when I turned it to the opposite side, it read 1023 (which is correct). I tried mapping it and then read the value. It would start off at 400 (with no interaction with the potentiometer) and drop all the way down to around 330 (when it was mapped with a toLow value of 1 and toHigh value of 5 (because I have 5 LED's)). Here is the code...(Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks)int ledPin1 = 0;int ledPin2 = 2; int ledPin3 = 4; int ledPin4 = 6; int ledPin5 = 8;int potPin = 5;void setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once:pinMode(ledPin1, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin2, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin3, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin4, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin5, OUTPUT);pinMode(potPin, INPUT);Serial.begin(9600); }void loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly: int potPin1 = map(potPin, 0, 1023, 1, 5);int potPinVal = analogRead(potPin1);Serial.println(potPinVal); delay(1);}

Topic by LOU_DEW747   |  last reply