Canon XM1 Lost component fix?

Hi there, So I've managed to break my CA910 Compact Power adapter, from what i understand it charges batteries and it also acts as a middle man between the power supply another lead that plugs into the camera to power it from the mains. The DC-905 DC Coupler is now effectively useless and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas of a DIY fix that would mean I can start powering my camera from the mains again, below is a copy of the cameras manual (I know it says Canon GL1, ignore it its the same camera!); If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them, Mikeyfish90210

Topic by Mikeyfish90210   |  last reply

How to use a transformer to step-up voltage

Hello! I was wondering how to use a transformer to step-up volage. I got one of those shocker fly swatters and took it apart, and saw that it used a couple of transistors, capacitors, and the main thing, the small 5-pin transformer. How does it work? How can I increase the voltage? 

Topic by HavocRC   |  last reply

What sensors / networking protocol should I use for this project?

Hey folks.   I'm a relative newcomer to the maker scene but I've been into GNU/Linux, BSD, shell scripting, Java and more for quite awhile. So here is my dilemna. Basically I'm trying make a device in which, let's say a child or dog, comes within 4 - 6 feet of an object and an alarm goes off.  However the trick is that the alarm can only go off when the particular dog/person is close to the item;  basically I have to pair two sensors or some type of communication devices together. I was thinking bluetooth, zigbee...unless I'm missing out on a particular sensor (or set of sensors) that could be paired together. Thoughts? EDIT:  Of course RFID would work, but the max distance is about 4 inches I think?

Topic by damianest   |  last reply

I need help

Help with a project I bought this controller that i hooked up as instructed;_campaign=Category_CMS&znt;_source=CAT&znt;_medium=RSCOM&znt;_content=CT2032233 and i have 6 of these LED's 3 in green and 3 in red the red are the same specs i dont know how to power everything, the controller needs 12 volts so i used a tiny car batterie but im afraid the lights will blow/not work what should i do?

Topic by dsl158   |  last reply

FT232RL+breadboard arduino programming problems

I am trying to program a breadboard arduino with an ft232rl programming adaptor that I found online. I made the 'duino using a atmega 328 preloaded with arduino uno optiboot from sparkfun. I attached 5volts power, 16mhz crystal, reset button, and an led to pin 13. When power is supplied, the led pulses then stopps suggesting that the bootloader is working correctly. I then connected a ft232rl to the arduino with rx to tx and tx to rx as well as the DTS pin to a 0.1 UF cap and to reset. Then i connected it to my computer via usb and installed the VCP drivers. It shows up as a com port in the IDE and I selected the board as an uno and tried to flash the blink sketch. The lights on the breakout blink, but i keep getting the avrdude not in sync message. I have tried switching cables, usb ports, pressing the reset button while programming, i have gotten rig of the 0.1 uf cap and jumped directly to DTS, i have tried both sets of drivers and have restarted the board, my computer, and the IDE as well as feeding a separate 5 volt source to the chip. How can I fix this? I am using windows vista SP1 with ide version 1.0.1 and a cheap programmer from ebay. 

Topic by qquuiinn   |  last reply

Why wont my servos react to my potentiometers

Hello everyone, hope your day is better than mine. I am trying to figure this out and to the best of my knowledge; I just can’t get this to work. Everything is connected correctly.  Note, I am also using separate power to the breadboard. The problem is, the servos adjust themselves when I apply power, but they will not turn when I increase or decrease the rotation of the potentiometers (I know all servos work and the pots work as well (trust me, I tested each using a single servo and pot sketch) I am almost positive it is an oversight, and I have been staring at it so long that, well I am most likely am overlooking the problem. I would really appreciate your assistance. So here is the code: #include Servo pot1V;  // create servo object to control a servo Servo pot2V;  // create servo object to control a servo Servo pot3H;  // create servo object to control a servo Servo pot4H;  // create servo object to control a servo int mypan1 = 0;  // analog pin used to connect the potentiometer int val0;    // variable to read the value from the analog pin int mypan2 = 1;  // analog pin used to connect the potentiometer int val1;    // variable to read the value from the analog pin int mytilt3 = 2;  // analog pin used to connect the potentiometer int val2;    // variable to read the value from the analog pin int mytilt4 = 3;  // analog pin used to connect the potentiometer int val3;    // variable to read the value from the analog pin void setup() {   pot1V.attach(3);  // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object   pot2V.attach(5);  // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object   pot3H.attach(6);  // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object   pot4H.attach(9);  // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object    } void loop() {   mypan1 = analogRead(0);            // reads the value of the potentiometer (value between 0 and 1023)   mypan1 = map(mypan1, 0, 1023, 0, 179);     // scale it to use it with the servo (value between 0 and 180)   pot1V.write(val0);                  // sets the servo position according to the scaled value   delay(15);                           // waits for the servo to get there   mypan2 = analogRead(1);            // reads the value of the potentiometer (value between 0 and 1023)   mypan2 = map(mypan2, 0, 1023, 0, 179);     // scale it to use it with the servo (value between 0 and 180)   pot2V.write(val1);                  // sets the servo position according to the scaled value   delay(15);                           // waits for the servo to get there   mytilt3 = analogRead(2);            // reads the value of the potentiometer (value between 0 and 1023)   mytilt3 = map(mytilt3, 0, 1023, 0, 179);     // scale it to use it with the servo (value between 0 and 180)   pot3H.write(val2);                  // sets the servo position according to the scaled value   delay(15);                           // waits for the servo to get there   mytilt4 = analogRead(3);            // reads the value of the potentiometer (value between 0 and 1023)   mytilt4 = map(mytilt4, 0, 1023, 0, 179);     // scale it to use it with the servo (value between 0 and 180)   pot4H.write(val3);                  // sets the servo position according to the scaled value   delay(15);                           // waits for the servo to get there } Thank you so much in advance, Anna :)

Topic by Abrandonmi   |  last reply

Stepper motors, plotters, millers and Arduino??? How does it work!?

So I would love to have a little help here understanding how these arduino drawing, milling, and plotting contraptions work. So I know that the stepper motor is for precision, but when you hook it up to gears and stuff, how does arduino know where the stepper motor is if its like on a track or gear? Say you have a stepper motor connected to a corkscrew gear. Some corkscrew gears may be large and others may be small. How does Arduino know where the motor is on that plane?? How do you import pictures or 3D objects to Arduino to make it draw/plot/mill? Thanks!

Topic by HavocRC   |  last reply

A simple decision maker

Hi    i am a very confusing guy and cant take decision easily so want to create a simple decision maker which helps to make decision whether to do or not

Topic by Rohit.panwar001   |  last reply

exact materials needed for a servo motor build

Ok hello everyone im back again ive got everything built but my servo motors i need to make atleast 126 of these ive got the gears of all different sizes i just want to build my on motors so if you could just give me  materials list of what i need to the very smallest of materials id be greatfulll and i will make a instructablle on how to build what im building. thank you very much  oh by the way it has to be materials for a very high torque motor with very high revolutions

Topic by prini   |  last reply

Help with understanding pinout on circuit board

I'm an HVAC technician and at school they had a bunch of Carrier EMI thermostats that connect to a router with a module. I'm pretty tech-savvy, but I'm not the greatest when it comes to wireless technology. On the board there are spots labeled: Tx, Rx, A2D2, GNDs, GNDp, and 12vdc. Then there are another 2 labeled OAT and OATC. What do these all mean? All I know is that Tx and Rx are transmitting and receiving. Any help is much appreciated.

Topic by musick_08   |  last reply

Arduino Solar Capabilities

So I went and bought a 1.5 Watt 9v solar panel from radioshack today. It gets ~10.5v and ~80mA in full California sun, and ~10.2v and ~75mA in afternoon light. Does anyone have any experience with running an arduino only on solar power? If so how much load can it take at this power level?

Topic by martzsam   |  last reply

Please help me solve this led thought

Hey every one I'm a tinker'er and well a dork lol . I am trying to make a device and I have 90% OF IT finalized .I wont fully explain what I am trying to build but i will give you a break down . enclosure box that holds 9 volt battery , brought down to 6 volts send through sound sensor  release 6 volts out . 2    3.3 leds   under powered at 3.0 each here's wjhat im trying to do = get leds to be independtly lit . I was thinking of using 2 sound sensors at different "levels" so it would throw the leds at different times . leds would be on oposite sides of the project box ... But wondering if there is a better way to use one sensor and allow both leds to alternate / also possible alternate duration . the effect im trying to get is lets say your in a 0 lite room turn this on and based on sound levels it would throw leds almost like lightning ??? it would have to alternate sides and alternate extend of liting times . Hope this is making sense :/ 

Topic by catman25   |  last reply

I need help for my electric imp/arduino project....

Hey, I have been working on a project centered around what chris nafis has already done with the grove dust sensor. So far, I have managed to get the dust sensor hooked up to an arduino and I have been getting it to display data, but that's about it. My next step was to get an elecrric im on sparkfun's imp shield to read serial data from the arduino in the form of numbers and then output it to COSM. However, for some reason, this does not seem to want to work on the leval of the imp. I followed most of jimb0's instructions on sparkfun for imps and arduino, but this does not seem to work. I have an arduino leonardo outputting serial data with serial1 at 19200 through pins 1 and 0 to the shield, which it then supposed to connect an imp running a program to patch this to a cosm node. I know nothing about squirrel, just using this code to do things: // Transmit data between UART and Input/OutputPorts on the impee // by: Jim Lindblom //     SparkFun Electronics // date: September 26, 2012 // license: BeerWare //          Please use, reuse, and modify this code as you need. //          We hope it saves you some time, or helps you learn something! //          If you find it handy, and we meet some day, you can buy me a beer or iced tea in return. local rxLEDToggle = 1;  // These variables keep track of rx/tx LED toggling status local txLEDToggle = 1; // impeeIn will override the InputPort class. // Whenever data is received to the impee, we'll jump into the set(c) function defined within class impeeIn extends InputPort {     name = "UART Out";     type = "number";         // This function takes whatever character was sent to the impee     // and sends it out over the UART5/7. We'll also toggle the txLed     function set(c)     {         hardware.uart57.write(c);         toggleRxLED();     } } local impeeInput = impeeIn();  // assign impeeIn class to the impeeInput local impeeOutput = OutputPort("UART In", "number");  // set impeeOutput as a string function initUart() {     hardware.configure(UART_57);    // Using UART on pins 5 and 7     hardware.uart57.configure(19200, 8, PARITY_NONE, 1, NO_CTSRTS); // 19200 baud worked well, no parity, 1 stop bit, 8 data bits } function initLEDs() {     // LEDs are on pins 8 and 9 on the imp Shield     // They're both active low, so writing the pin a 1 will turn the LED off     hardware.pin8.configure(DIGITAL_OUT_OD_PULLUP);     hardware.pin9.configure(DIGITAL_OUT_OD_PULLUP);     hardware.pin8.write(1);     hardware.pin9.write(1); } // This function turns an LED on/off quickly on pin 9. // It first turns the LED on, then calls itself again in 50ms to turn the LED off function toggleTxLED() {     txLEDToggle = txLEDToggle?0:1;    // toggle the txLEDtoggle variable     if (!txLEDToggle)     {         imp.wakeup(0.05, toggleTxLED.bindenv(this)); // if we're turning the LED on, set a timer to call this function again (to turn the LED off)     }     hardware.pin9.write(txLEDToggle);  // TX LED is on pin 8 (active-low) } // This function turns an LED on/off quickly on pin 8. // It first turns the LED on, then calls itself again in 50ms to turn the LED off function toggleRxLED() {     rxLEDToggle = rxLEDToggle?0:1;    // toggle the rxLEDtoggle variable     if (!rxLEDToggle)     {         imp.wakeup(0.05, toggleRxLED.bindenv(this)); // if we're turning the LED on, set a timer to call this function again (to turn the LED off)     }     hardware.pin8.write(rxLEDToggle);   // RX LED is on pin 8 (active-low) } // This is our UART polling function. We'll call it once at the beginning of the program, // then it calls itself every 10us. If there is data in the UART57 buffer, this will read // as much of it as it can, and send it out of the impee's outputPort. function pollUart() {     imp.wakeup(0.00001, pollUart.bindenv(this));    // schedule the next poll in 10us         local byte =;    // read the UART buffer     // This will return -1 if there is no data to be read.     while (byte != -1)  // otherwise, we keep reading until there is no data to be read.     {         //  server.log(format("%c", byte)); // send the character out to the server log. Optional, great for debugging         impeeOutput.set(byte);  // send the valid character out the impee's outputPort         byte =;  // read from the UART buffer again (not sure if it's a valid character yet)         toggleTxLED();  // Toggle the TX LED     } } // This is where our program actually starts! Previous stuff was all function and variable declaration. // This'll configure our impee. It's name is "UartCrossAir", and it has both an input and output to be connected: imp.configure("UartCrossAir", [impeeInput], [impeeOutput]); initUart(); // Initialize the UART, called just once initLEDs(); // Initialize the LEDs, called just once pollUart(); // start the UART polling, this function continues to call itself // From here, two main functions are at play: //      1. We'll be calling pollUart every 10us. If data is sent from the UART, we'll send out out of the impee. //      2. If data is sent into the impee, we'll jump into the set function in the InputPort. // // The end It's not mine, but I modified it slightly t work with numbers instead of strings. I an then using this arduino code on a leonardo: ;int pin = 10; unsigned long final; unsigned long duration; unsigned long starttime; unsigned long sampletime_ms = 30000; unsigned long lowpulseoccupancy = 0; float ratio = 0; float concentration = 0; void setup() {   Serial1.begin(19200);    while (!Serial) {     ;    }   pinMode(10,INPUT);   starttime = millis(); } void loop() {   duration = pulseIn(pin, LOW);   lowpulseoccupancy = lowpulseoccupancy+duration;   if ((millis()-starttime) > sampletime_ms)   {     ratio = lowpulseoccupancy/(sampletime_ms*10.0);  // Integer percentage 0=>100     concentration = 1.1*pow(ratio,3)-3.8*pow(ratio,2)+520*ratio+0.62; // using spec sheet curve     final = concentration*35     ;Serial.println(concentration);     lowpulseoccupancy = 0;     starttime = millis();   } };int pin = 10; unsigned long final; unsigned long duration; unsigned long starttime; unsigned long sampletime_ms = 30000; unsigned long lowpulseoccupancy = 0; float ratio = 0; float concentration = 0; void setup() {   Serial1.begin(19200);    while (!Serial) {     ;    }   pinMode(10,INPUT);   starttime = millis(); } void loop() {   duration = pulseIn(pin, LOW);   lowpulseoccupancy = lowpulseoccupancy+duration;   if ((millis()-starttime) > sampletime_ms)   {     ratio = lowpulseoccupancy/(sampletime_ms*10.0);  // Integer percentage 0=>100     concentration = 1.1*pow(ratio,3)-3.8*pow(ratio,2)+520*ratio+0.62; // using spec sheet curve     final = concentration*35     ;Serial.println(concentration);     lowpulseoccupancy = 0;     starttime = millis();   } } I would really like some help, as this is my science fair project and I am the only person that I know that knows about Imp, and sadly we don't have any hackerspaces around where I live in alaska.

Topic by qquuiinn   |  last reply

Microwave Oven Transformer Stack

This is my Microwave Oven Transformer stack. It is currently current limited using a heater. There is approximately 10 36 watt 4' fluorescent tubes in a string around my garage that I am lighting with the MOT stack .My MOT stack contains 4 Microwave Oven Transformers connected with their outputs in series and their inputs in parallel. They are mounted on plastic cutting boards. I am using threaded rod to hold the layers in place while the PVC pipe covers the threaded rod and it also supports some of the weight. The output of this is approximately 8800VAC at 350mA The Input voltage is 240VAC Thanks for looking, Please comment and remember to rate if you like it! Just say if you want any pics of a certain thing, e.g. the MOT stack arcing to wood/metal etc. (I will try to get more pics of it arcing soon but it is hard to use a camera that has like a second delay before it takes the actual pic from when you press the button, stupid camera) ********************************************************************************************************** Edit The new pictures are of an arc between two carbon electrodes. The other pictures are of 12 fluorescent tubes connected in series but arranged in parallel so you can see them all

Topic by thermoelectric   |  last reply

Arduino UNO not working with Arduino WiFi shield

I'm having a lot of issues regarding interfacing an Arduino wifi shield with the Arduino Uno. My Arduino works fine when the shield is not attached to it but when I attach the shield, I'm unable to upload the code; I get: avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 I also tried to change my board and uploaded the code on Arduino due, then it gives: device not found on COM 8 as error Otherwise the boards are perfectly fine, they are working usually they should. Also, I'm unable to reset the board when the shield is mounted on the board The code i uploaded is simple blink code,however none of the code are uploading The shield i'm using is this , the arduino's official WiFi shield shield These are the things i have already tried but none is working : -powered up the arduino from external power supply (12 V, 1A) -removed the shield and programmed it (code loads on board ) but then mounting shield on board, the led on pin 13 cease to blink -without using the shield , arduino works as usual (like that Rx, Tx pins work and pin 13's LED and power led blinks /lit up) but with the shield stacked on board , nothing seems to work

Topic by jatinbatra   |  last reply

arduino uno R3 + ethernet shield as webserver

I am trying to load a webpage stored on SD card on the ethernet shield. I loaded the sketch webserver avalable in the library. THe output that i got on the serial monitor was server is at but i was unable to open the webpage any suggestions?? thank you

Topic by kavyamc   |  last reply

Portable Query Machine for Excel files

I was wondering if there would be a way to make a "query machine" that would be portable.  It would need a display and digit pad and allow me to load an excel sheet to the device and then search it using the key pad.  I didn't know if this would be feasible or not so some input would be valuable.  I need something like an RF Scanner that would be used in a ware house except without the scanner part.  Just manually type in a number and a location appears on the screen.

Topic by J.Reynolds09   |  last reply

Direction/turn signal indicators making them brighter with led bulb I need help pls

Hi. I somtimes ride a 1985 yamaha ms50 pogal 50cc moped. It has an 6v electrial system where as modern day scooters are 12v. I bought a knew indicater relay for it and checked all the bulbs as the turn signal indicators are not so easy to see flashing. I mean, on average sunny day other road users would need to look hard to see them flashing. the bulbs are 6v 15w and both old and knew flasher relays gives output of 6v 40w. I would feel much safer when turning if I had a bulb that gives a brighter flash to give other road users a better idea when im turning. I can see on the web there is a 6v 5w and 10w bulb I can try or even 6v leds but I dont know much about leds. the stanadard factory fitted indicater buld 6v 15w gives an ok flash at night, but in sunny daylight I would need to be close up to see it flash which is no good! I don't want to change the originality of this little ped since it has been carefully taken care of over the years and has made it in intact into current times as is. I need to come up with somthing that will work and if I replace a buld with a 5w or 10w when it should be 15w I may get a brigher flash or just blow the bulb. I wonder was there a problem or just bad design with the indicator lights on the yamaha ms50 pogal when they first came out in the 1980's as I have seen a couple of them fitted with suzuki fz50 indicators and other makes of bike turn signal indicaters on them. I don't think the flashers are faulty I feel they where just made that way. I could be wrong. I suppose there could be a bad earth on the flashers. Sorry to go on so much about this. Im looking for your suggestions for a brighter indicator flashers which is purely for safety reasons. If car drivers can see where im turning, im less at risk of being nocked off by them. Im thinking a higher or lower wattage incandescent 6v buld or even a replacment 6v led buld ive seen on ebay but as I said. I know nothing about led bulbs or even if they will work on my moped. Would a equivalent 6v 15w led give a brigher flash than a 6v 15w tradisional incandesant bulb? can someone help me here pls Here's the led ive seen on ebay;=item4d08c3be3d these are the standard 6v 15w bulbs i want to replace with brighter led bulbs  

Topic by selectauto 

iPad Cart for School

I am a teacher in a public school with a limited budget.  Our community has bought 50 iPads for the students coming up next year, but did not budget anything for a cart.  The administration has tasked me with solving the issue on the cheap and I seek your help.  The requirements are: Preferably, it's mobile.  It needs to be locked.  This can be a simple padlock  with a latch. My colleagues hope to have two carts of 25 each, but three carts of 20 each (with some empty slots, obviously) is okay. They have not told me if needs to power AND sync, or just power.  At present the cart they have only powers them up. For IPad accessories, what's in the box is what I have. My school is looking to do this very cheaply--a simple box with a power strip inside is preferable than a big cash outlay, but I'd like to do better than that.  I certainly don't want to spend the year dealing with small issues that come up with middle school students being unable to do this or that. I have thought of using a two drawer filing cabinet (top for iPads, bottom for the guts)  and a 24 USB port hub with AC adapter.  But I could make a box out of wood, too.  I know it needs ventilation, but ideas on this end are appreciated.  I tinker and build but my tech knowledge hits a wall, which is why I'm looking to crowdsource this to success. Thanks in advance.

Topic by darlingtom   |  last reply

Lightbox options

Hi everyone, I need your opinions please, I want to create a light box and I have two options; Use an old A4 scanner and place these leds ( and place them behind the glass where the scanner part would of been, place some film over the glass to help with the light and job done. Which would be better as well, put the lights ont he bottle or try and get them as close to the glass as possible. Or, I can use an old monitor (nearly A3 size which would be better) with a knackered power unit so I will need to use the same leds by either placing them along the sides of the thick acrylic/glass sheet inside the montior (which would need cutting the metal and plastic  frames a lot to get it to work or make a new wooden one to fit inside the monitor external case . Or cut holes in the back of the metal exterior frame and have the leds really close to the sheet. However on the understand of the sheet is covered in lots of little white dots which might stop the light. Any suggestiong or opinions please?

Topic by drop_dead_fred   |  last reply


Ok, so I'm currently playing with the idea of making a "feedback clock". Except 1 to 12 is now replaced with 12 speakers, and only having one the hand which would have a microphone attached to the end of the arms. For the rotation of the arm, a geared DC motor. The problem I have is in the construction of this mechanism, so any help or thoughts would be welcomed. My original thought is constructing an amplifier with 12 outputs and 1 input. The input being a receiver, transmission coming from from the microphones attached to end of the arms. OR would it be possible to make individual smaller amps for each speaker and split take the signal from the receiver in to each amp? If I was to do a multi-channel out put amp, does anyone know what circuit design I would be looking at? 

Topic by Harol Erreip   |  last reply

Short Introduction:

Hello Community, I want to be a part of this community as I am new to this site. I am very happy to find this kind of discussion board. Thanks and Regards, Derren Brown

Topic by DELETED_DerrenBrown   |  last reply

please I need help with a PROPER wiring diagram for my project

Hello everyone,  its great to see a site like this exists, I am still picking my jaw up off the floor with some of what i would consider genius minds making some pretty cool stuff. well let me give you guys and gals a little info about my project, I am making a 250 watt aquarium light for my fish tank after walking into the fish store and getting price shock from the ones that had in stock.  I will be using several wavelengths rated at 350ma per 10 watt LED bead and I have 12 forward voltage per LED bead. My question is I want to use an old computer supply to power the light as I would like to stay within budget as best as possible and the chance to tinker with other electronics would be awesome for someone like me.  I am familiar with the proper way to wire up LEDs using resistors and the correct order to connect them. My only question is I want to avoid a series of LED only because I hear if one goes out the series goes out, but then I heard about a by-pass method to battle that. The other reason why I want to use a series and parallel is because I don't want to drill a million holes in my heat sink, rather I would want them all to meet at one end and join them together and insert into the female plug that the computer supply 12v line will plug into (after a little modding of course to the computer supply to carry this plug) also if I am going with 12FV led beads would using 25 of them in series and parallel be less efficient than if I got 32-36 forward V led beads??? or does that potential ultimately lay within the wiring of the entire aquarium light? I don't want to loose any potential of these LED which i realize is quite easy to do if everything isn't exactly right as far as resistor choices go etc. I would like to add a temp fail safe shut off in the wiring of the panel but am unsure where to exactly place that. If someone wouldn't mind taking the time to show the the proper wire diagram and be able to walk me through the wire diagram maybe via skype, I would truly appreciate that very much as its a huge passion of mine to learn but I am not in the position to be able to go to school because I have a disease that wont allow me to really leave the house. but I am wondering if there is anyone out there that can help me with my little hobby and project as I would like to use the knowledge learned in future projects and tinker around with some more electronics around the house. it would also be something nice to do when i'm home bored all the time. have a great day I look forward to meeting my fellow instructables. I am here to learn!!

Topic by LEDgrasshopper   |  last reply

Ceramic capacitor in air conditioner DPAC12010H

Hi there,  I received a not-working air conditioner model DPAC12010H from someone who didn't need it anymore, and I took it to a friend who works with refrigerators to see if we could find the problem. We took it apart, and we found that a fuse mounted on the main PCB was shot. The fuse is 120V and 3.75A so I suppose it's only for the control circuit as the whole air conditioner runs at more than 9A on max capacity. Anyway, we temporarily bypassed the fuse with a copper wire to continue testing. We plugged it in, and immediately a component on the PCB (which I now believe is a ceramic capacitor) spew sparks and melted it's insulation. However after this incident the air conditioner works perfectly, and it blows very cool air (its a 12000 BTU machine after all). However I'm still concerned about that capacitor. I can not post a picture right now, maybe when I get back from work. It was brownish yellow, about 3/4" in diameter roughly same shape as a nickel. Does anyone have any idea what that capacitor might be for? Since the air conditioner is working now I'm guessing the sparks made it conductive, or maybe it's used for the dehumidifier which I have not tested.  I will buy a new fuse today and see what happens. The air conditioner draws about 9 A at full operation. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Topic by colorex   |  last reply

Combing Arduino Sketches

Hello, I have a question. I need to combine my code for my Arduino Webserver with the code for my Parallax card reader. When I combine them only the RFID card part works? Can someone help me debunk this. I orginally wanted it to be when someone swiped a valid RFID card, that it would launch the webserver? I don't think that's possible though. Here's my code: #define RFID_ENABLE 2   //to RFID ENABLE #define CODE_LEN 10      //Max length of RFID tag #define VALIDATE_TAG 1  //should we validate tag? #define VALIDATE_LENGTH  200 //maximum reads b/w tag read and validate #define ITERATION_LENGTH 200 //time, in ms, given to the user to move hand away #define START_BYTE 0x0A #define STOP_BYTE 0x0D #include #include char ssid[] = "*******";      //  your network SSID (name) char pass[] = "*********";   // your network password char tag[CODE_LEN];  int readLed = 4; int invalidCardled = 5; int validCardled = 6; int ipCam = 7; int doorLock = 8; int alarm    = 9; int status = WL_IDLE_STATUS; WiFiServer server(1025); void setup() {   Serial.begin(2400);    Serial.println("Please Swipe Your Card.");   pinMode(RFID_ENABLE,OUTPUT);    pinMode(readLed, OUTPUT);   pinMode(validCardled , OUTPUT);   pinMode(invalidCardled, OUTPUT);   pinMode(ipCam, OUTPUT);   pinMode(doorLock, OUTPUT);   pinMode(alarm, OUTPUT);       if (WiFi.status() == WL_NO_SHIELD) {// check for the presence of the shield:     Serial.println("WiFi shield not present");     while(true);        // don't continue    // attempt to connect to Wifi network:   while ( status != WL_CONNECTED) {     Serial.print("Attempting to connect to Network named: ");     Serial.println(ssid);                   // print the network name (SSID);     // Connect to WPA/WPA2 network. Change this line if using open or WEP network:        status = WiFi.begin(ssid, pass);     // wait 10 seconds for connection:     delay(10000);   }   server.begin();                           // start the web server on port 80   printWifiStatus();                        // you're connected now, so print out the status   } }   void loop() {   //Start our main Arduino Loop   enableRFID();   //Enable the RFID card   getRFIDTag();   //Reads the tag   if(isCodeValid()) {  //Validates that the tag is good     disableRFID();  //Puts the RFID reader in to low power mode     sendCode();     //Sends the code read to the serial port     delay(ITERATION_LENGTH);  //Debounce?   } else {     disableRFID();  //Got a incomplete code..   }   Serial.flush();   clearCode();       WiFiClient client = server.available();   // listen for incoming clients   if (client) {                             // if you get a client,     Serial.println("new client");           // print a message out the serial port     String currentLine = "";                // make a String to hold incoming data from the client     while (client.connected()) {            // loop while the client's connected       if (client.available()) {             // if there's bytes to read from the client,         char c =;             // read a byte, then         Serial.write(c);                    // print it out the serial monitor         if (c == '\n') {                    // if the byte is a newline character           // if the current line is blank, you got two newline characters in a row.           // that's the end of the client HTTP request, so send a response:           if (currentLine.length() == 0) {              // HTTP headers always start with a response code (e.g. HTTP/1.1 200 OK)             // and a content-type so the client knows what's coming, then a blank line:                client.println("HTTP/1.1 200 OK");             client.println("Content-type:text/html");             client.println();                         client.println("");             client.println("");             client.println("Remote Security Solutions");             client.println("");                                     client.println("");             client.println("");                         client.println("");             client.println("");             client.println("Remote Door Control");             client.println("");             client.println("ATTENTION!!! SOMEONE IS TRYING TO ACCESS A SECURED DOOR!!!");                                                             // the content of the HTTP response follows the header:             client.println("");             client.print("PLEASE CHOOSE FROM ONE OF THE FOLLOWING OPTIONS BELOW.");             client.print("Unlock The Door:");             client.print("");             client.print("");             client.print("");             client.print("Lock The Door:");             client.print("");             client.print("");             client.print("");             client.print("Sound The Alarm:");             client.print("");             client.print("");             client.print("");                                               // The HTTP response ends with another blank line:             client.println();             // break out of the while loop:             break;                   }           else {      // if you got a newline, then clear currentLine:             currentLine = "";           }         }             else if (c != '\r') {    // if you got anything else but a carriage return character,           currentLine += c;      // add it to the end of the currentLine         }                 if (currentLine.endsWith("GET /1")) {           digitalWrite(ipCam, HIGH);                       }         if (currentLine.endsWith("GET /2")) {           digitalWrite(ipCam, LOW);                        }          if (currentLine.endsWith("GET /3")) {           digitalWrite(doorLock, HIGH);                       }         if (currentLine.endsWith("GET /4")) {           digitalWrite(doorLock, LOW);                       }          if (currentLine.endsWith("GET /5")) {           digitalWrite(alarm, HIGH);                       }         if (currentLine.endsWith("GET /6")) {           digitalWrite(alarm, LOW);                        }                        }     }     // close the connection:     client.stop();     Serial.println("client disonnected");   } }   /**  * Clears out the memory space for the tag to 0s.  */ void clearCode() {   for(int i=0; i     tag[i] = 0;   } }   /**  * Sends the tag to the computer.  */ void sendCode() {   //This is where I would add a return value (the code) to "validiate" or whatever at.     Serial.print("Valid Card ID Scanned:");      char full_tag[10];     for(int i=0; i       if (i == 9)  //Edits by riley porter         Serial.println(tag[i]);  //This checks to see if its the last byte       else                       //If it is it will print a "new line" so that the codes to jumble together         Serial.print(tag[i]);         } }   /**************************************************************/ /********************   RFID Functions  ***********************/ /**************************************************************/   void enableRFID() {    digitalWrite(RFID_ENABLE, LOW);    digitalWrite(validCardled, HIGH); }   void disableRFID() {    digitalWrite(RFID_ENABLE, HIGH); }   /**  * Blocking function, waits for and gets the RFID tag.  */ void getRFIDTag() {      byte next_byte;   while(Serial.available() <= 0) {}   if((next_byte = == START_BYTE) {          byte bytesread = 0;     while(bytesread < CODE_LEN) {       if(Serial.available() > 0) { //wait for the next byte           if((next_byte = == STOP_BYTE) break;                 tag[bytesread++] = next_byte;       digitalWrite(readLed, HIGH);       delay(25);       digitalWrite(validCardled, HIGH);       delay(25);       digitalWrite(invalidCardled, HIGH);       delay(25);       digitalWrite(readLed, LOW);       delay(25);       digitalWrite(validCardled, LOW);       delay(25);       digitalWrite(invalidCardled, LOW);       delay(25);       digitalWrite(validCardled, HIGH);       delay(25);       digitalWrite(validCardled, LOW);       delay(25);       digitalWrite(readLed, HIGH);           }     }                  }    }   /**  * Waits for the next incoming tag to see if it matches  * the current tag.  */ boolean isCodeValid() {   byte next_byte;   int count = 0;   while (Serial.available() < 2) {  //there is already a STOP_BYTE in buffer     delay(1); //probably not a very pure millisecond     if(count++ > VALIDATE_LENGTH) return false;   }; //throw away extra STOP_BYTE   if ((next_byte = == START_BYTE) {      byte bytes_read = 0;     while (bytes_read < CODE_LEN) {       if (Serial.available() > 0) { //wait for the next byte                if ((next_byte = == STOP_BYTE) break;           if (tag[bytes_read++] != next_byte) return false;          digitalWrite(invalidCardled, HIGH);          delay(10);          digitalWrite(invalidCardled, LOW);                       }     }                  }   return true;     }   void printWifiStatus() {   // print the SSID of the network you're attached to:   Serial.print("SSID: ");   Serial.println(WiFi.SSID());   // print your WiFi shield's IP address:   IPAddress ip = WiFi.localIP();   Serial.print("IP Address: ");   Serial.println(ip);   // print the received signal strength:   long rssi = WiFi.RSSI();   Serial.print("signal strength (RSSI):");   Serial.print(rssi);   Serial.println(" dBm");   // print where to go in a browser:   Serial.print("To see this page in action, open a browser to http://");   Serial.println(ip); }

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