Timed control board for a reversible motor

Hello, In need to connect a control board to a reversible motor so that the motor would rotate in one direction for "x" seconds and then automatically switch and rotate for "y" seconds in a reverse direction. I got the following parts in hand: - reversible motor - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N687NGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc;=1 - control board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HB1X75U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc;=1 - DC adapter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1GRFYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc;=1 Control board works and is going through the proper cycle as indicated in description however the motor only rotates in one direction and never switches. Realizing this this something that I am doing wrong with wiring, so hoping for an advice from someone who knows better in terms of how to set it up correctly and which jumpers or anything need to present so that it works and where things should be wired into. I am also attaching an image with descriptions for connectors that I received from the company. Thank you in advance for your advice.

Topic by dxbxlx 

Full Duplex Wireless Audio

Hi, I'm in need of some help with a project I'm working on. I'm looking to build a handsfree two way audio communication circuit but I've been getting very confused when looking at material online and don't know where to look or how to even start. I've been looking into full duplex communication but I have no idea how to implement this in a circuit I could build. I'm confused as to if I would need a microcontroller (probably an arduino) or not and what transceivers and antennas to use. If anyone could show me where to look or help me get a starting point your help would be much appreciated. Thank you.

Topic by ArnoldM27   |  last reply

wired video connection from an FPV camera

Could FPV cameras such as the Foxeer Predator Mini or Micro (intended for wireless use on drones) be set up to send a live wired video feed to an android phone or tablet via a micro usb cable of some description? for context, i intend to build a bulky costume which effectively blocks my view out so after googling a bit i found some mentions of people using these (surprisingly cheap) cameras with (very expensive) FPV goggles so i figure i could potentially use a tablet/phone i already have with a long cable connection instead but i don't know if it's possible...

Topic by ambientvoid   |  last reply

3V Hobby Motor in a 6V Circuit.

Hi. Hope I'm posting appropriately. If not, please forgive an older guy! I'm working on a Useless Box project that I power from a 6V wall wart. I've already completed one and it works great. I use two standard servos with an Uno. But now, rather than being satisfied, I'd like to add a 3V hobby motor, which naturally would only run randomly for short periods of time. I have purchased an AMS1117 step down module which is rated at 800mA from Amazon to get the correct voltage for my little motor. My question is, do I need to add a capacitor across the leads or to the casing. If so, how do I determine what size? And while I'm asking, is there anything else I need to think about? I appreciate any help as this is a new hobby for me.

Topic by Steve_Lane63   |  last reply

Arduino/ESP8266/servo noise when idle

Hello everyone My project involves a robot with LEDs, servos and an Arduino with a Sparkfun ESP8266 shield on top. Everything else works fine, I send web requests to the robot and LEDs are blinking or the servos are moving. The problem is that when idle I have noise on the servo. I have tried  1. Pull-up and pull-down resistors 2. Providing external power to the servos 3. Putting an aluminium foil between Arduino and the shield and the problem persists Commenting out parts of my code I isolated that the noise appeared upon uncommenting this part of my code void serverDemo(){ ESP8266Client client = server.available(500); } but I cannot understand why.  Could you please propose me any idea? Below I have the entire code #include #include #include const char mySSID[] = "xxxx"; const char myPSK[] = "xxxx"; ESP8266Server server = ESP8266Server(80); Servo myservo1; Servo myservo2; int pos = 0;    // variable to store the servo position int pos2 = 180; int led1 = 12; int led2 = 13; const String html = "HTTP/1.1 200 OK\r\n" "Content-Type: text/html\r\n" "Connection: close\r\n\r\n" "\r\n" "\r\n" "\r\n"; void setup(){ Serial.begin(9600); initializeESP8266(); connectESP8266(); displayConnectInfo(); serverSetup(); myservo1.attach(11);  myservo2.attach(10);  pinMode(led1, OUTPUT);     pinMode(led2, OUTPUT); //testing myservo1.write(45);   delay(15); myservo1.write(80);       } void loop(){ serverDemo(); } void initializeESP8266(){ int test = esp8266.begin(); if (test != true) { Serial.println(F("Error talking to ESP8266.")); errorLoop(test); } Serial.println(F("ESP8266 Shield Present"));} void connectESP8266(){ int retVal = esp8266.getMode(); if (retVal != ESP8266_MODE_STA) { retVal = esp8266.setMode(ESP8266_MODE_STA); if (retVal < 0) { Serial.println(F("Error setting mode.")); errorLoop(retVal); } } Serial.println(F("Mode set to station")); retVal = esp8266.status(); if (retVal <= 0) { Serial.print(F("Connecting to ")); Serial.println(mySSID); retVal = esp8266.connect(mySSID, myPSK); if (retVal < 0) { Serial.println(F("Error connecting")); errorLoop(retVal); } }} void displayConnectInfo(){ char connectedSSID[24]; memset(connectedSSID, 0, 24); int retVal = esp8266.getAP(connectedSSID); if (retVal > 0) { Serial.print(F("Connected to: ")); Serial.println(connectedSSID); } IPAddress myIP = esp8266.localIP(); Serial.print(F("My IP: ")); Serial.println(myIP);} void serverSetup(){ server.begin(); Serial.print(F("Server started! Go to ")); Serial.println(esp8266.localIP()); Serial.println();} void errorLoop(int error){ Serial.print(F("Error: ")); Serial.println(error); Serial.println(F("Looping forever.")); for (;;) ;} void serverDemo(){ ESP8266Client client = server.available(500); if (client) { String req; while (client.connected()) { if (client.available()) { String c = client.readStringUntil('\r'); req += c; Serial.println(req); if (req.indexOf("hands") != -1){ hands_up(); } if (req.indexOf("leds") != -1){ leds_flash(); } } } client.print(html); delay(1); client.stop(); } } void leds_flash(){ digitalWrite(led1, HIGH); digitalWrite(led2, HIGH); delay(200); digitalWrite(led1, LOW); digitalWrite(led2, LOW); delay(200); } void hands_up(){ for (pos = 0; pos <= 30; pos += 1) { pos2 = 180 - pos; myservo1.write(pos2);             myservo2.write(pos);             delay(15);                      } for (pos = 30; pos >= 0; pos -= 1) { pos2 = 180 - pos; myservo1.write(pos2);             myservo2.write(pos);             delay(15);                      } } Thank you!

Topic by ManosZ1   |  last reply

product advertisements disguised as instructables

I have come across a number of  instructables by people or groups selling a product or pushing for support for a particular product under development. Fair game, if they try to help to do something, but instead they preface their "problem solution" with the need to buy such and such piece of equipment. I have no problem with this approach, but sure wish such instructables  would be identified as "promotional instructables."  or at least be identified  at the beginning of the instructable as showing how this specific product is the answer to an identified intractable problem.

Topic by cobourgdave   |  last reply

how do you hack the santa off a starchaser laser light?

I bought 2 christmas Starchaser laser light shows for $5. I want to get rid of the santas & trees. The stencils are either embedded within the diffraction plate or inside the laser casing. I can change out the diffraction glass but don't know what type to replace it with. Someone Has Had to have done this before me. My engineer friends say "huh?". Yes I watched all the YouTubes. These are nice remote control lasers.   Deb the Mad Science Teacher (retired)

Topic by broodinghen   |  last reply

Higher Amperage

Hello guys, i need help with one of my projects.I have make an DIY Keyboard with neopixel at any button,it works perfect but i have problem with power. i have 2 usb from keyboard one for arduino and one for keyboard.if i load #define BRIGHTNESS         20  all is good but if i load #define BRIGHTNESS         80 the usb connection is lost and arduino start to lag.this is amperage problem and the question is if any1 know how i can take that usb output from pc and make it with circuit to higher amperage.

Topic by NetariaT   |  last reply

Arduino With GUI running on PC

Hello,       I am building a scale farm model. Said model has Flashing lights and stoplights and other flashing/non flashing Lights. (run by an Arduino UNO) I would like a GUI (Graphical User Interface) that can run on my Microsoft Surface Pro 4, running windows 10. The GUI needs to have automatic and manual modes for the stoplights and brightness control for the non flashing lights. The GUI also needs to also have on/off "switches" for the lights. Does anyone know of any projects that are on YouTube or software that already has an easy to customize GUI (or does what I want already out of the box) that is available. I am using an Arduino UNO to control. the lights are Led. I am Open to suggestions. Thx       Ian

Topic by IanL13 

gyro callibration

When my gyro is powered externally the gyro is not callibrating properly but if it is connected with arduino it is callibrating properly please look at my issue

Topic by SoofiyanA1   |  last reply

lazer following display help

I was wondering if it is possible to have an icon or marker show on a screen where you are pointing, as a screen displaying a camera feed and an icon to show where it is pointing. My initial idea is to use a laser pointer and an icon to show on the screen where it points by using the colour of the pointer.  I simply wish to see if its possible in one way or another and what methods there are. (not sure I am phrasing it right so apologies if I need to clarify it further) thank you for any information you can you can give me

Topic by cursedzeba   |  last reply

USB-bus-communication with pic18f4550

Hi everbody Im memo Can you help me please? I'm working on a project about USB Communication with PIC Microcontroller(pic18f4550) I wrote the project in mikroC for pic pro v6.6.1 and this is : nusigned char readbuff[64] absolute 0x500; // Buffers should be in USB RAM, please consult datasheet unsigned char writebuff[64] absolute 0x540; char cnt; char kk; void interrupt(){ USB_Interrupt_Proc(); // USB servicing is done inside the interrupt } void main(void){ ADCON1 |= 0x0F; // Configure all ports with analog function as digital CMCON |= 7; // Disable comparators HID_Enable(&readbuff;,&writebuff;); // Enable HID communication while(1){ /*while(!HID_Read())*/ ; for(cnt=0;cnt<64;cnt++) /*writebuff[cnt]=readbuff[cnt];*/ while(!HID_Write(&writebuff;,64)) ; } } and this the USB Descriptor : USBdes.c : const unsigned int USB_VENDOR_ID = 0x1234; const unsigned int USB_PRODUCT_ID = 0x0001; const char USB_SELF_POWER = 0x80; // Self powered 0xC0, 0x80 bus powered const char USB_MAX_POWER = 50; // Bus power required in units of 2 mA const char HID_INPUT_REPORT_BYTES = 64; const char HID_OUTPUT_REPORT_BYTES = 64; const char USB_TRANSFER_TYPE = 0x03; //0x03 Interrupt const char EP_IN_INTERVAL = 1; const char EP_OUT_INTERVAL = 1; const char USB_INTERRUPT = 1; const char USB_HID_EP = 1; const char USB_HID_RPT_SIZE = 33; /* Device Descriptor */ const struct { char bLength; // bLength - Descriptor size in bytes (12h) char bDescriptorType; // bDescriptorType - The constant DEVICE (01h) unsigned int bcdUSB; // bcdUSB - USB specification release number (BCD) char bDeviceClass; // bDeviceClass - Class Code char bDeviceSubClass; // bDeviceSubClass - Subclass code char bDeviceProtocol; // bDeviceProtocol - Protocol code char bMaxPacketSize0; // bMaxPacketSize0 - Maximum packet size for endpoint 0 unsigned int idVendor; // idVendor - Vendor ID unsigned int idProduct; // idProduct - Product ID unsigned int bcdDevice; // bcdDevice - Device release number (BCD) char iManufacturer; // iManufacturer - Index of string descriptor for the manufacturer char iProduct; // iProduct - Index of string descriptor for the product. char iSerialNumber; // iSerialNumber - Index of string descriptor for the serial number. char bNumConfigurations; // bNumConfigurations - Number of possible configurations } device_dsc = { 0x12, // bLength 0x01, // bDescriptorType 0x0200, // bcdUSB 0x00, // bDeviceClass 0x00, // bDeviceSubClass 0x00, // bDeviceProtocol 8, // bMaxPacketSize0 USB_VENDOR_ID, // idVendor USB_PRODUCT_ID, // idProduct 0x0001, // bcdDevice 0x01, // iManufacturer 0x02, // iProduct 0x00, // iSerialNumber 0x01 // bNumConfigurations }; /* Configuration 1 Descriptor */ const char configDescriptor1[]= { // Configuration Descriptor 0x09, // bLength - Descriptor size in bytes 0x02, // bDescriptorType - The constant CONFIGURATION (02h) 0x29,0x00, // wTotalLength - The number of bytes in the configuration descriptor and all of its subordinate descriptors 1, // bNumInterfaces - Number of interfaces in the configuration 1, // bConfigurationValue - Identifier for Set Configuration and Get Configuration requests 0, // iConfiguration - Index of string descriptor for the configuration USB_SELF_POWER, // bmAttributes - Self/bus power and remote wakeup settings USB_MAX_POWER, // bMaxPower - Bus power required in units of 2 mA // Interface Descriptor 0x09, // bLength - Descriptor size in bytes (09h) 0x04, // bDescriptorType - The constant Interface (04h) 0, // bInterfaceNumber - Number identifying this interface 0, // bAlternateSetting - A number that identifies a descriptor with alternate settings for this bInterfaceNumber. 2, // bNumEndpoint - Number of endpoints supported not counting endpoint zero 0x03, // bInterfaceClass - Class code 0, // bInterfaceSubclass - Subclass code 0, // bInterfaceProtocol - Protocol code 0, // iInterface - Interface string index // HID Class-Specific Descriptor 0x09, // bLength - Descriptor size in bytes. 0x21, // bDescriptorType - This descriptor's type: 21h to indicate the HID class. 0x01,0x01, // bcdHID - HID specification release number (BCD). 0x00, // bCountryCode - Numeric expression identifying the country for localized hardware (BCD) or 00h. 1, // bNumDescriptors - Number of subordinate report and physical descriptors. 0x22, // bDescriptorType - The type of a class-specific descriptor that follows USB_HID_RPT_SIZE,0x00, // wDescriptorLength - Total length of the descriptor identified above. // Endpoint Descriptor 0x07, // bLength - Descriptor size in bytes (07h) 0x05, // bDescriptorType - The constant Endpoint (05h) USB_HID_EP | 0x80, // bEndpointAddress - Endpoint number and direction USB_TRANSFER_TYPE, // bmAttributes - Transfer type and supplementary information 0x40,0x00, // wMaxPacketSize - Maximum packet size supported EP_IN_INTERVAL, // bInterval - Service interval or NAK rate // Endpoint Descriptor 0x07, // bLength - Descriptor size in bytes (07h) 0x05, // bDescriptorType - The constant Endpoint (05h) USB_HID_EP, // bEndpointAddress - Endpoint number and direction USB_TRANSFER_TYPE, // bmAttributes - Transfer type and supplementary information 0x40,0x00, // wMaxPacketSize - Maximum packet size supported EP_OUT_INTERVAL // bInterval - Service interval or NAK rate }; const struct { char report[USB_HID_RPT_SIZE]; }hid_rpt_desc = { {0x06, 0x00, 0xFF, // Usage Page = 0xFF00 (Vendor Defined Page 1) 0x09, 0x01, // Usage (Vendor Usage 1) 0xA1, 0x01, // Collection (Application) // Input report 0x19, 0x01, // Usage Minimum 0x29, 0x40, // Usage Maximum 0x15, 0x00, // Logical Minimum (data bytes in the report may have minimum value = 0x00) 0x26, 0xFF, 0x00, // Logical Maximum (data bytes in the report may have maximum value = 0x00FF = unsigned 255) 0x75, 0x08, // Report Size: 8-bit field size 0x95, HID_INPUT_REPORT_BYTES,// Report Count 0x81, 0x02, // Input (Data, Array, Abs) // Output report 0x19, 0x01, // Usage Minimum 0x29, 0x40, // Usage Maximum 0x75, 0x08, // Report Size: 8-bit field size 0x95, HID_OUTPUT_REPORT_BYTES,// Report Count 0x91, 0x02, // Output (Data, Array, Abs) 0xC0} // End Collection }; //Language code string descriptor const struct { char bLength; char bDscType; unsigned int string[1]; } strd1 = { 4, 0x03, {0x0409} }; //Manufacturer string descriptor const struct{ char bLength; char bDscType; unsigned int string[16]; }strd2={ 34, 0x03, {'M','i','k','r','o','e','l','e','k','t','r','o','n','i','k','a'} }; const struct{ char bLength; char bDscType; unsigned int string[15]; }strd3={ 32, //sizeof this descriptor string 0x03, {'U','S','B',' ','H','I','D',' ','L','i','b','r','a','r','y'} }; //Array of configuration descriptors const char* USB_config_dsc_ptr[1]; //Array of string descriptors const char* USB_string_dsc_ptr[3]; void USB_Init_Desc(){ USB_config_dsc_ptr[0] = &configDescriptor1; USB_string_dsc_ptr[0] = (const char*)&strd1; USB_string_dsc_ptr[1] = (const char*)&strd2; USB_string_dsc_ptr[2] = (const char*)&strd3; } the problem is thas when I build the project this message is shown 434 Demo Limit 102 Finished(With errors) How I Can Solve how this problem please?

Topic by MohamadK4   |  last reply

Request: How to wire a Firgelli L16P to an arduino

Hi, everybody. If you followed my instructables you know I'm always building robots.  I'm trying to assemble a Stewart platform using Firgelli L16P linear actuators.  My problem is that I can't seem to get the Arduino PWM to talk to the firgelli RC servo interface.  I have... - 12v running to controller pins 1 (-) and 2 (+) - arduino PWM pin 3 to controller pin 3 - controller pin 1 to arduino GND (for common ground) and I'm running a version of the servo sweep example sketch, modified to run on pin 3. The actuator doesn't move. I've tested the control board with the PC control software from Firgelli (works) and I've tested the arduino with a TowerPro SG5010 I had lying around (also works). Notice the controller LED will NOT come on in this configuration, but once I remove the common ground the light turns on. So what am I missing?

Topic by aggrav8d   |  last reply

led bulb dimmer

How to make a dimmer for led bulbs which are non-dimmable type?

Topic by allwynkumar   |  last reply

Hello, I have a few questions.

Hello, I've been frequenting this site for a number of years now, but have never actually posted anything. However, I am now starting up an important project, that may be little much for me, and I'm wanting to make sure I have a full understanding of the resources I'm going to need to complete the project. So I'm going to give a little background in the hopes of explaining why this project is so important. I'm a college student looking to get my associates in Application Development. I'm currently in my second quarter of classes, and am beginning the planning process for what the school is calling the "Capstone Project" (aka Senior Project). So as it stands I have about two years to, assuming everything goes well, to create a new application, and I decided I'd be a bit of an over achiever (with this project even if I'm not with others xP) and develop an AI assistant home robot based off the Japanese Gatebox (https://gatebox.ai/). I choose this because I feel it's something that really challenges all my skills, as I started my career off as an IT in the Navy specializing in System Administration, then worked as an on call computer repairmen for a year after I got out, and am now working on becoming a programmer. Now while I've done some research into, and am forming a plan for the software side, there are a few things on the physical tech side that I'm having trouble with. First, I would like to use a prism hologram, rather than a projector and clear screen, however I'm also not wanting the base to take up a large area on a desk. So I was wondering if there were any cheap projectors that could work, or if someone knows of a small screen that could allow for a somewhat tall projection? Second, as a kind of way to make my system stand out as it's own thing, I was wanting figure out a way to wirelessly (preferably over a wifi connection) to stream the image from the "Central" unit to a "Remote" unit somewhere else in the house, while on a budget. I know Wireless HDMI systems exists, however given there price I would prefer to find an alternative method. Any and all help would be appreciated.

Topic by evocure   |  last reply


My UPS is designed to run on 36v Dc input. Can i be able to use a single 12v battery for it to run? if not is there a way i can adjust the input power to 12V?

Topic by Patricemutua   |  last reply

Run of Android Tablet and Laptop without Battery

Whether it is possible to run  Android Tablet and Laptop with AC Adapter only after removal of battery

Topic by kghosh47   |  last reply

I need help i´m new to arduino

Me and a friend of mine need to build a project for school and we had the idea of making a car with arduino, controlled by android with a live camera connected to a raspberry. I want to now if that is possible to do.

Topic by andrehnunes   |  last reply

Vivax vicam 5 not working

The light on the camera head is not working. Video camera works fine. I need detailed instructions on how to remove the head assembly to further T-shoot I can provide more details if needed tks Tony

Topic by atsman   |  last reply

individually addressable led DECORA switch

Greetings collective Instructables genius, Here's the deal, I have a kitchen,  I also have several strips of individually addressable LED's powered by the same supply.  I like the led's, I really the fade between teal and blue as it gives the impression that you're underwater.  At any rate, having anything other than a decora sized switch is out of the question.  I don't need another remote, or some box with switches on it to control the LEDs.  I'd really like a switch that can be mounted in a single gang electrical box, that can be covered by a decora faceplate.  I have a media cabinet where the power supply for the LED's is housed, and the switch can run to the supply in the cabinet.  I need at least 4 programs (like the underwater effect), though 8 would be ideal.  Any thoughts on how to approach this?  I'd spend upwards of $80 for a finished product.   Any input is appreciated.  Thank you Eric

Topic by legionmanchild   |  last reply

Dual Play with 2 consoles

Not sure how many people are away that some 3D TV's support Dual Play (converts the 2 player splitscreen from games to a Top Bottom 3D Image and has the option for the 3d glasses to only display the left or right eye images (player 1 or player 2) however many games i like to play are not splitscreen so i want to be able to input 2 consoles, and do the same so that input one plays for left eye and input 2 plays for right eye so far after looking around for ages, i havn't found anything that does this best idea i found it using 2 Hdmi input card on a PC and combineing them then output to TV but this is very annoying hopfully someone here knows of an easyer way, or a way i can work around this basicly i would think there would be something out there for this, for example to be used with displaying 2 cameras on a 3d display in realtime (thats kinda what i'm wanting to do just with games) Thanks

Topic by NeonfOx   |  last reply

Laser cutting.

Hello (excuse my English really bad I'm Belgian and French) I would like to cut aluminum sheet of + - 5 mm thick and also cut paper without "burning the edges" I would like to know what kind of "laser head" the cheapest possible exists and what would be even better, whether this kind of "laser head" is recovering ... I was thinking of a DVD laser burner but, even though I I'm as good at DIY as an elephant is good at skydiving, I guess a DVD burner will not cut aluminum ... A big thank-you

Topic by Hiram   |  last reply

Making a better spot welder....

I am in the process of building a proper spot welder from scratch. Proper more in terms of the electrical and electronics part but not so much in looks ;) My problem now is to find useful info on what power levels are required for certain tasks. I realise that welding thin sheet metal won't need as much time and amps as welding a 3mm stainless steel rod - but what is a "good" power level? I watched a bunch of Youtube videos showing various approaches but for many it seems the producer had no clue about the difference between creating a short with burn marks and a weld... Especially when it comes to creating battery packs with a capacitor bank as the main power provider you can clearly see the device burns holes but does not really create a welded spot. On the other hand there are a few videos showing spot welder made from a MOT that seem to produce a proper melted and welded connection. When I used a proper spot welder at work it had timing settings, power levels and even a feature to adjust how the current rises.... Not to mention a gauge that checks the pressure and only activates the welder once the set point is reached... There is a ton of info out there that after a thausand words still tells you nothing you need to know :( So is there anyone here who can shed some light on the actual process of spot welding in easy words for everyone to follow? I am aiming for a max output of around 400A @ 1.5 -2.5V with an adjustable shunt in the transformer core to avoid oversaturating the core. In a later stage I will add power control over the primary side but until then it is only time control, from a few ms to a max of 5sec if the damn controller arrives one day. Big questions: 1. Is a power control really required or is it possible to cater from thin to thick just by using different timing settings? 2. Since a MOT is used for the power supply: Is it better to leave the shunts out to fully avoid saturation by adding an inductor in line with the primary or is it still better to adjust the shunts under load to get the maximum power possible? 3. Aluminium and other materials benefit from using AC but would be good to have a DC output too, if so then what materials really need DC? 4. All I could find is that copper is used for the electrodes, due to resistance and heat transfer - are there other options apart from using copper? 5. Tricky one: I would prefer to use the secondary winding as the new primary to avoid core saturation and to lower the load on the power outlet. Where can I find very thin copper bar material that I can coil up and insulate as I would quite a few more turns to get at least 1.5V out of it? Just don't like the idea of spending days rolling a copper bar thin enough.... For the advanced model at a much later stage: Of course I would like to be able to use a proper power control instead of a motor dimmer or similar. For obvious reasons an inverter microwave jumps to mind. But after checking one I noticed one big problem: there are not really that many windings on the primary of the transformer at all! Same way our modern switchmode power supplies only use a few turns these things do exactly the same. After some quick and dirty initial tests I realised that even a single turn of thick wire already results in over 20V on the secondary. Wasted a lot of wire and time making one coil with 5 turns less and one with 10 turns less but the system would not even start with it. Seems these things need a fixed inductivity on the primary that matches the frequency used, in my case 36kHz. Would love to overcome this problem so I can at least go down to a single turn to get under 5V on the output side as space is non existing on these inverters. Can I cheat? Do I need to change the circuit to match the new primary coil? Am I thinking in the wrong direction altogether here? And added bonus would be to be able to adjust the power from around 15% to 100%, so far the electronics don't allow anything below 45%. Is it possible to drive these inverters in resonance? (Ok, off topic as I would like to use this for a beefy HV supply) Last thoughts: I know people already used Arduinos and Raspberries with displays and all but so far I have not found anything that shows how to do it properly. Seems all that counts is to create connection one way or the other and to call it a spot weld even if it is just a burn hole from discharging a capacitor bank through a needle like electrode.... For obvious reasons I don't want to create just another spot welder that makes a professional pee himself laughing about it. IMHO nothing beats personal experience with something but I don't really like wasting my time by trying what other people alread did a long time ago. So if YOU already built a MOT based spot welder and used for more than a few spots I would love to hear from you! Let me know what type you used, what problems or shortcomings you noticed or where you feel it just does not work out the way you expected it. From simple things like always getting bad sparks or arcing, over how easy or hard it is to get consistand results to whatever really annoys you while using your homemade spot welder. I hope that your feedback here will help me to write an Instructable on building a spot welder that does what you expect it to do, not once or twice, but everytime you use it. Mechanics might vary the same way the electrode style does but the weld should always be a proper weld that won't tear apart ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 

Arduino - Basic Kit - Instructions?

I purchased the Arduino Basic Kit a number of years ago. The directions say to go to Autodesk.com/Adruino to get started, but that page doesn't exist anymore. Does anyone have a PDF of the project directions for the parts included with the kit? Thanks. 

Topic by bryan.thatcher   |  last reply

Need help to create a DIY USB monitor

Hi all, I am working on a project to create my own portable usb monitor (eg. ltn101nt02) and a LCD controller board.  However, the controller board requires a 12v power input with more than 2A. I am thinking of using a boost converter but I'm not sure if it will work. Also, with the USB as power input, can it still work as a screen input for my monitor? Can anyone advise if i can modify the board such that I can use a USB for both power input and screen input? Thanks!

Topic by wzlee1   |  last reply

Turn my Raspberry Pi 0W into a bluetooth HID gamepad

Hello there ! I've been trying to get through this for weeks... many projects are quite similar but I have never found one that answers my problem. As the title says, I want to turn my Raspeberry Pi 0 W into a bluetooth HID gamepad. I figured out that another way is possible. Indeed you can create your own bluetooth HID device with either the Adafruit BlueFruit Ez-Key or a the RN-42 module (or even the HC-05 with the RN-42 firmware). But I want neither of these solutions. I want to use my Raspberry Pi 0 W in a way that it will be recognized as a bluetooth gamepad. Creating the gamepad is fine, I used the GPIO of the Pi for the inputs. But once the gamepad is physically done, how to make my Pi appear as a gamepad ? I've seen that you can use hciconfig in the terminal of Raspbian in order to change the class of the Pi and set it as a gamepad but I must admit that I didn't understand everything. And it's important that it appears as a gamepad and not as a keyboard. In a nutshell, I would like to turn my old wired nes controller in a bluetooth one, and play on another Pi where Recalbox is installed. (That's why you must appear as a gamepad and not as a keyboard, because Recalbox only works with bluetooth gamepads). Thank you in advance if someone takes his time to help me with this because I can't take it anymore haha ! 

Topic by frowngo 

Send audio with arduino through bluetooth to an IOS and save it in the App.

I have an arduino board and I need to capture audio with a mic, send it through bluetooth BLE and receive it in an IOS App to save it in the iphone or Ipad.

Topic by FreddyA17 

raspberry pi digital dimmer of light bulb

Hai, iam working on dimmer light project with raspberry pi the module which iam using from research design lab issues with the device to test or run it. please any one can suggest me can i change the module to wifi based dimmer module to test or run the light dimmer. thank u

Topic by james2jain 

Charging SLAs from DC

Hi Instructables community! I am building a K9 robot - one that is going to be covered in solar cells-in such a way that I get a voltage / current ratio of a pretty high number. I plan to charge my SLA partially via these cells so I can lengthen the space between charges. Unfortunately, my 6V 4.5Ah SLA battery is charged via a plugin adapter and I do not wish to pull it apart unless there is no other choice - so is there are a way I can charge my battery from a constant DC voltage? If so, do any of you know what voltage/currents I'd need to feed it? I can get most any current/voltage specs via transistors and voltage boosters - just I don't know the equation. Thanks for all your help! Jonathan Davis NitroJon Labs

Topic by nitrojon   |  last reply

Adruino cyclone dust sensor

I am looking for suggestions for building a wood chip / dust level detector for the collection can of a cyclone vacuum. I have tried using uv detectors, they get covered in fine dust and become in-effective.  I am thinking of using the ultrasonic sensor. My objective is to detect the level of chips and dust collected in the debris can, and sounding an alarm when the can gets to the full point. Any help on this subject would be appreciated.  I am new to working with these Adruino controllers and not real familiar with writing the Sketches for this. Thanks Don

Topic by Don D   |  last reply

Need help with a wiring diagram for a on/off/on switch parallel/serial battery

Ok I'm not really electronic savvy but I can solder and follow a diagram. This is what I want to do: I have a toy four wheeler for my kids. Has one battery and a push button that makes it go. When you release the button it stops.  I want to add another battery and push button so when you push the original button the batteries run in parallel. The speed will run the same as with the one battery but twice the run time. (please correct me here if I'm wrong) When you push the the new added button at the same time as the original button it will switch to running the batteries in series so it will be faster running on twice the volts. So i'm figuring I need some sort of on/off/on 6 pin switch and a push button switch but not sure how to wire it exactly. Found this which gets me close but I want to add in the push button switch to make it work instead of the toggle switch.  https://www.instructables.com/id/SIMPLE-ParallelSeries-Select-Switch/ The original button is on the handle and you push it with your thumb. I will add the new switch on the other handle. Something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-Red-Square-Pre-Wired-Momentary-Push-Button-Switch-Reset-1-2-AC-250V-Car-12V/182680718419?epid=11005923516&hash;=item2a889e8c53:g:YoMAAOSwr9VZwoA7 Any thoughts on this would be awesome!

Topic by ty8   |  last reply

How do you bypass Zscaler proxy?

In windows 10, stop windows firewall services and use opera or edge browser.

Topic by faizebrahim   |  last reply

how to kick off subnet masked IP from my wifi?

Hi  Somebody help Someone with subnet musk get into my wifi. I want to kick him off without chaning my parol.I also want its real IP adress  Please help

Topic by Talehaİ   |  last reply

how to make a Fridge alarm?

Hi All, http://i67.tinypic.com/kwbhe.jpg I want to make a fridge alarm, but i dont know the right configuration or maybe I need to buy a different time delay module?  Please help me Kind regards, Jonathan

Topic by JonathanH243   |  last reply

ESPixel Stick Q&A

Hi all.....I bought an ESPiex Stick....And I know what it does, but does not come with a users manual. Does anyone know how to set it up? I am a newbie to this kind of tech but learn quickly. Any help or tips would be really appreciated. There are many youtube videos showing what these are and some define what they are. I don't know how to attach one of them to this site. But if you type ESPixel Stick in Youtube you will easily access everything......Thanks,,,,,,~~RoB~~

Topic by roborizino 

Boombox Bluetooth mods

I have a JVC RV-NB1 Kaboom Series Boombox and want to mod it with a "Decoder Board USB/TF/ Reader IR Remote Bluetooth/FM Audio Board Module MP3". "Bluetoothing" this box is easy but installing this module involves a bit more ie. usb, TF slot, aux, FM. IR for remote any ideas as to connecting the rest. I can't seem to find a schematic from JVC. It has an FM tuner and can decode mp3,WAV,CDA,FLAC. CD's.Plus I want to add either a LiPo 4200mAh battery or a transformer for charging the module.any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Chuck Reed

Topic by CR34 

Cree XL-M RGBW LED - recommended LED driver?

Hello I live in Australia and am new to the electronics world. I recently obtained a Cree XM-L RGBW LED 20mm 12W (image). I want to wire it up, so decided to browse the internet for wiring information. This has resulted in a multitude of questions and I haven't been able to find any answers.  From what I can gather, each LED runs @ 100% ~350 mA, up to a maximum of 1 A. Doing some research, it seems I should use an LED driver to ensure that a consistent voltage is maintained. I have some LM317T MOSFET/Voltage regulators coming in, but after some further reading, they can be inefficient. I read I can use an Arduino for PWM to help set different colours by varying the brightness of each LED. Can the Arduino also be used as a driver? Looking for a driver is where I'm stumped. I'm assuming I need a driver per LED. Does this mean I need 4 separate drivers or are 4 channel drivers available? I've seen some single-chip IC drivers and some larger (multiple component) drivers, which should I be looking for? I would have thought that drivers for this type of multiple LED would be easily found, but I'm stuck :) Maybe I'm searching for the wrong thing? I emailed Cree, but they simply gave me an email address for an Australian LED company that no longer exists (at least the domain is no longer active). So I thought the next best bet would be reaching out to users who may have dealt with these LEDs. Thanks!

Topic by hendrikse.alex   |  last reply

How to make xy plotter controlled via computer serial port

Is it possible to make a XY plotter which would be controlled by a computer serial port instead of a dedicated processor as everybody someway or the other just do that no matter what version it is

Topic by Unumunu   |  last reply

Constructing a realistic lasergame

I am making a laser game/tag system and I would like an IR detector/sensor that can tell the difference between a direct hit and a near hit fly by so that the "bullets"can still cause sounds on a near hit. The sensor should be as invisible as possible but should have a very clear and acurate detection. If there is no way I can make it work I will tweak the guns to be louder. Guns will have to hit over atleast 200 meters "For snipers". I know I need a double-convex lens but I just don't know wich LED I need. It would also help if next to a focused LED there is a way to send an infrared signal in all directions for just a while "For explosives". I have looked at ad hoc but no idea if it would work in there. For the suits I will most likely use sensors connected to a micro-controller/processor. Oh I forgot to mention that I am not using infrared lasers because they will most likely burn or damage the equipment.

Topic by xpalix   |  last reply

Need help with power supplies

I've been reading about electronics for a while and watching the Make podcast and I've finally started making my own projects. Anyway I have some cordless tools with 3 extra batteries but only one of them still takes a charge. So I thought it would be cool if I could put a power supply in one of my dead batteries so that I could plug it into the wall. I've been looking around my garage and thrift stores for a wall wart that would get the job done (the batteries are 19.2V Craftsman batteries I think they pull about 2000ma) but the closest I've been able to find is an old laptop power cord has a DC output of 19v and 3.9amps. So I'm not sure if that will work or if the extra amps will burn out my tools or something. Does anyone know if it would work? If not how can I dial down the amps?

Topic by cannedham160   |  last reply

Short range battery operated 2 part (door alarm type) distance sensor.

Hello all! I'm looking to design a range compact distance sensor that will sense 1-4 ft increments. If necessary i could modify a door alarm. id like to fab one or multiple if need be to sense the distances noted. I could utilize a buzzer or some way to record a voice that would alert to said distance. The battery voltage max is 4.2v dc and if it could be rechargeable that would be a plus. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Topic by Automan350   |  last reply

WiFi Radio / MP3 Player with ESP8266

Hello everyone, I'd like to make a new project: Reading in an usb stick with .mp3 files, and playing them. Moreover to swtich from mp3 playing to a wifi radio station. Basically I'd like to use a nodemcu ESP8266 for this project. This was my idea (s. Attachment) My questions: Does it work? Is the controller of the ESP8266 powerful enought to fit these requirements? Do you have improvements for this project? Best regards, Julian

Topic by julianpe   |  last reply


Hello everyone!  I currently have a project in development which is lacking only one step. I am making a DIY Electric skateboard powered by a Arduino UNO board. I have some leds in the back working fine, the esc and motor work when I adjust the delay to 1300 miliseconds.. But my problem is to control the esc and motor via de potenciometer. Right now my potenciometer only reads me the values from 0-1023 but nothing happens. I have a map in my code but nothing is moving when using the potentiometer. Can someone help me out to make the potenciometer work? Here is the link to the instructables page where I have all the materials I used and also the code! https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-ARDUINO-SKATEBOARD/ Thanks in advance!!

Topic by MauroGB   |  last reply

Hall effect sensor to trigger relay

Hi! I have a project that needs to sense whether water is flowing through a pipe. I bought a water flow sensor on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LVWHJP0/) thinking I could use it as a basic switch, however, it's got a hall effect sensor and I don't understand how to deal with the voltage output. Measuring from the pulse signal to ground, the sensor swaps the polarity each time it's triggered: With water running, I see a positive voltage. Turn the water off and back on, voltage goes negative. My control system can't deal with this. What I need is a simple circuit to turn the sensor's pulse output into a contact closure. Can anyone help? Thank you!

Topic by rpdubz   |  last reply

Sound Locator Circuit?

Hey all, Here's an idea maybe one of you solder-jockeys can help me out with: Ever have a sound that you'd like to find the source of, but your ears can't tell you where it's coming from?  I'd like to build a circuit to do that. I was thinking of something like three electret microphones with op-amps between them in differential mode.  That would give three signals that would be, presumably, the ratio of sound coming from each mic.  (And, therefore, an indication of direction.) Of course, I'd also like to get an adjustable bandpass filter in there somewhere to isolate just the sound I'm looking for.  That's the part that complicates all designs I've thought of. And then, if I could somehow figure out distance too, that would be the ULTIMATE! Here's one possible use case: A car makes a funny squeal noise a highway speeds. The mechanic takes out this device and magnets it inside the hood.  He runs a control wire back to the cabin. Once the car is in motion and making the desire noise, he adjusts the BP filter using potentiometer(s) and a pair of headphones. The device tells him where (relative to itsself) the sound is coming from. Your bill is less because the problem was diagnosed quickly without a lot of guesswork. Thoughts?

Topic by PS118   |  last reply

Liquid dispenser wireless pour control

Hi guys, anyone knows the concept behind this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAJvbFYtpIU. It is a wireless drink pourer, that can control the liquid flow. Can't find if something like this can be made with Arduino. Does some one have an idea if this can be done?

Topic by justforcavaliers   |  last reply

HEMI no programing required !

Hello  I am interested in build a simple mini line following robot  like HEMI dome shape design, has any one here built this robot ! or ones like it, and information on where to get parts mini or micro gear box, and motor and mini wheels to fit as well as mini circuit boards or I will make one via you tube . . Thanks any help appreciated  David  

Topic by beginner 1    |  last reply

Project issue

Whenever I have Microsoft Project open to read mpp document, it brings the whole system operation to a crawl. Forget about using a browser whenever that program is open; it slows everything down. Any suggestions as to what causes this?

Topic by Ross0298   |  last reply

3.5mm 5.1 Surround Sound Switch/Splitter Box for 2 inputs

Hello, my first post here, so it might be in the wrong section, please move it if necessary. I have quite a complicated problem. Currently I have 1 PC with 5.1 speakers and recently bought a 5.1 headset with microphone. Already  I have a problem when I want to switch between speakers and headphones, each time I have to go under the desk and change the cables :/ In a few months I plan to buy another computer (old one is used up, but it is still quite good equipment). And here begins the stairs. I do not need a second monitor or keyboard plus a mouse, so I want to buy a KVM (keyboard / video/ mouse) switch. The mouse and keyboard are USB ones, so the KVM must support USB. Monitor and graphics card are connected through DVI, which I want to keep, so I must have a DVI KVM. I also want to be able to switch between headphones and speakers. So I thought about this: cs1782 But this works only for one 'source': I could use either speakers or headphones, switching from one PC. But I would like to be able to choose whether I want to use speakers or headphones on both of the PC, so I was thinking about doing (I have not found anything like this to buy, which is strange, because more and more people have the same problem) something like this. But as to be able to do: - Switch between headphones and speakers at PC1 - Switch between headphones and speakers at PC2 - Switch between PC1 and PC2 - Using headphones on PC1 and speakers on PC2 (or vice versa) simultaneously. I've came out with this picture, which should  be able to do this: - Switch between headphones and speakers at PC1 - Switch between headphones and speakers at PC2 - Switch between PC1 and PC2 But I still can't figure how to make this: - Using headphones on PC1 and speakers on PC2 (or vice versa) simultaneously. The more I  think about it, the more I get the idea that it can't be done via DPDT switches, but I don't know what to use. Is it even doable? I have no experience in electronics (I did solder couple of wires in my life, but nothing more), but I have a lot of enthusiasm, so I could make such magic boxes, if I knew how. Thanks in advance for any suggestions, ideas, etc. I also hope that this problem will be useful to someone else.

Topic by ratm4n   |  last reply

Shock alarm clock

Hi,  I want to build a Alarm that will shock you when the clock hits a certain time i am new to this could someone help me out ?!

Topic by josephwilmott2   |  last reply