Vending

Hey guys. I was going to make a vending machine with 4 servo motors which would use a RFID card as money like debit cards. I have made a sketch but, since i am really new to robotics it can have tons of problems and i don't have any idea about the code either. So, i thought maybe you guys could help me. And i have to say this project is really important for me and i have to make this thing. Your kind response and help is really appreciated Tnx

Topic by The robotics fan   |  last reply


Amazing 3-axis LED orb

What's better than LEDs? Spinning LEDs! Laserpointer forums member FireMyLaser has decided that spinning LEDs is so much fun that he built a contraption that spins on 3 axes and creates some pretty insane effects. He also posted lots of build photos, but for now he's exceeded his photobucket bandwidth. Hopefully they'll be up again soon. NOTE: this is a forum post. Forums are where users can post links to other cool things happening in the DIY space and as such instructions aren't always available. Thanks! LED Orb 2.0 via MAKE

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply


Arduino to control 3V remote

Hi,  I have a remote that I'm trying to drive with an arduino.  The remote usually uses a 3V CR2032 battery.  I tried just using the 5V digital pin set on high, but that didn't work.  Then I tried using a L293D motor driver -- with the lithium battery supplying the outside power.  That didn't work either. Any ideas?

Topic by gluckc   |  last reply


Supersized QWERTY keyboard

Im helping an elderly fella with parkinsons. Communication is difficult. sometimes he can type.  if the keyboard was huge, it might help. Huge calculators have been around for a while. I cant find a huge qwerty board. id rather buy it than scratchbuild it, if possible. scratchbuild if necessary. Help?

Topic by Toga_Dan   |  last reply


arduino Questions

Silly question. Trying to build something that requires an arduino to take a temperature measurement, and pwm an Item dependant on that temp reading. so the question is how many reads and adjustments per second can I aim for? I was hoping to get the 1 MHz area but am assuming less than that at this time

Topic by plucas1   |  last reply


Mountain & Outdoor Photography

Photography is a passion of ours! We enjoy sharing our moments we capture in the field with people who enjoy photography.   Below are a few links of our work, as well as the settings used to capture this photo. We hope you enjoy, share and comment.   500px https://500px.com/ridgelinehuntingproductions Facebook  https://www.facebook.com/RidgelinePhotos/

Topic by ridgeline16   |  last reply


Host a chat bot at home?

We've all seen those little bots in various chat services, like Kik, Skype, Messenger, etc... I want to make one, but insted of using an existing service on the Internet to host it, could I use an old computer or a Raspberry Pi? 

Topic by Dashing Rainbow Dash   |  last reply


How can I build a Solar Powered Camera for Car Detection

Hello, I'm looking to build a solar powered camera that detects cars moving past and takes a photo. I've been trialing an off the shelf model that relies on software to detect motion but it does not perform well when the cars are travelling over 15km/h. For this reason I'd like to try and develop a camera that senses the magnetic properties of a car (like traffic lights). I'm open to suggestions but here's how I picture it working: Magnetometer detects car > Micro controller > Camera > Micro controller > 3G/4G antenna > Internet. The system would need to be powered by a battery which is charged by a solar panel. Send me an email and we can chat on how to tackle the project. I work for an environmental consultancy so we can provide you with proof of an internship. impact.environmental.ptyltd@gmail.com Thanks.

Topic by TomF127   |  last reply


synchonized flash light for cheap?

Also posted in "burning question " forum Hi, I am looking for someone who could do an synchonized flash light such as this one but for much cheaper ;-) The challenge is on synchronizing the camera with the flashlight, if possible wireless. The light itself and the diffuseur are no real topic. The use of such devices helps a lot when taking pics for your I'bles or your ETSY shop if you have one. Thx B

Topic by BaptisteL8 


Kodi or how much copyright protection is honoured these days...

These days when people talk about watching the latest cinema releases or TV series that are not even avialable in their country they often don't mean downloads... Sure, if you look around the web you will find a download for every movie or TV series currently out there but most people don't have the knowledge for it. Then there is the illegal aspect of things which is a true concern for people trying to do the right thing. But for quite a while now there is the Kodi media player out there. What looks to be just another video and music player is currently the number one platform for all sorts of illegal access to video or audio material from all over the world. For a while you could only download and install everything yourself, seeking info in some shady areas of the net. Now you get detailed info to every single step with screenshots and all. The biggest "joke" IMHO is that recently shops and retailers started selling Android TV boxes with Kodi already installed. This would not be a problem either if the required plugins for illegal access would be missing.... So what do you think about the legal side effects? A shops selling devices to illegally access copyright protected material and advertising it: Is this already against the law? A customer who bought the thing without realising he is doing somthing illegal with it: Is the customer really to blame? Out internet activities are an open book to the ISP and basically every law related organisation out there. So please don't pretend to be shocked if one day you get a few DMCA notices served ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Arduino time base servo sweep code help

Hi,     I need help on creating arduino code for a time base sweeping servo. Specifically i would like to have my servo sweep 180 degrees and back to center every 20 minutes and repeat indefinably. Im sure its a fairly simple code but just new at coding in general I have looked at servo sweep code sample in the arduino library but I dont know how to implement it with a timer. Hope someone can help me out. thanks for your time uno r3, micro servo 99

Topic by jaysond04 


LED dimming and color temperature control (variable white LEDs)

I'm trying to find an inexpensive way to control a variable-white LED strip with knobs. There are tons of remote dimmers and wall-touch-controls available. These are way too complicated or too big for my application. All I want is two knobs. One that controls the brightness of the LED strips and one that controls the color temperature between the cold and the warm white LEDs I did some research and see two possible solutions: a) 100% analog using potentiometers and LED drivers or b) using potentiometers, Arduino, and LED drivers. Here are the details: a) Analog: - Use two LED drivers to drive the actual LEDs, like these ones: http://www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers/buckpuck-dc-led-drivers - Use two dual-channel potentiometers to control the brightness of the two different LEDs in the strips:   - One controls the brightness for both channels (connected to the same pins)   - One controls the relative brightness between the channels (connected to opposite side pins) b) Using Arduino: - Any Arduino with analog inputs - Two single-channel potentiometers connected to two analog inputs - Some software that generates the correct PWM outputs for the two LED channels - LED drivers that can dim using PWM signal input. According to this post, the same BuckPucks can do that, too: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=14603.msg107089#msg107089 Do you have any advice on these options? Is there a third one or even an off the shelf solution? What about compliance and certification? If I use BuckPucks and other components that are certified, do I still need a certification for the whole system? (assuming I want to use the design not just for my personal pleasure)

Topic by smensch07   |  last reply


Half Inch CRT Monitror

I was tearing apart an old VHS camera and decided to rip the LCD out of the viewfinder. Much to my suprise I find a CRT monitor not a LCD! This screen is about 1/2 inch. It has a 5 pin connector that leads to the motherboard and a chip on the bottom that says A118121. Obviously two of the conections would be V+ and ground, but what about the other three? I would like to turn this into a composite or VGA compatible screen (maybe even a crazy tiny oscilloscope) but I need some help. Any suggestions or leads would be greatly appreciated.

Topic by gimmelotsarobots   |  last reply


How can I modify my vacuum to turn the brush roll off?

I have https://smile.amazon.com/Hoover-Cleaner-WindTunnel-Lightweight-UH70120/dp/B002HFDLCK/ref=pd_ybh_a_14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GR3CWSF52RR4YEMDSQWV this vacuum. I love it, the Hoover Vacuum Cleaner WindTunnel T-Series Rewind Plus Bagless Lightweight Corded Upright UH70120. I was wondering if anyone had a hack to make the brushroll turn off for hard floors. it currently doesnt have that option. Thank you!

Topic by JuliaM115   |  last reply


Mono Bass in Stereo System

Hello Everyone I'm building a portable amp system running in stereo, but I only have one Bass speaker. Each Speaker (5, left/right tops, left/right mids and the bass) has its own amp. How can I connect the input on the bass speaker to the (stereo) input while keeping the channels separate? Thanks. 

Topic by IronCake 


Options to improve cooling and reduce consumption for portable coolers

I recently had to start learning how to service airconditioners on the fast and that learning got me thinking about my portable coolers.... Some of us like to go camping or on longer fishing trips, so there might be one of those 3-way fridges in use or a better cmpressor model. The one thing they all have in common is that they can only cool down to a difference in ambient temperatures. No matter which way we turn it the cooling produces heat and that needs to get away somehow. The other big thing is the cooling cycling - or the lack of it on a warm day. After some reading and thinking I came up with some ideas that might be applicable to your existing cooler if you are willing to mess around a bit. Let's start with the produced heat, shall we? Down here in Australia most people either have the fridge in their4WD or camper. In a car or small camper trailer there is often the problem of airflow, so the cooler might be doing overtime for no other reason than a lack of airflow. If you check online sites like Amozon and Ebay you quickly find fan systems meant to be installed inside the cooler to get lower temperatures and a quicker cooling of fresh goods. The thing is that the box is quite well insulated and the benefit of the airflow goes only as far as it can reach. And even if the box is quite empty and you would have a benefit of the cold air moving around it won't change the fact that "improved" cooling always comes with more heat in this case. But if we use one of these fan systems to actually improve the airflow on the hot side we not only get better cooling but also a reduce power consumption - something worth considering if you have no backup power generator.... This of course brings us to placement. As I have done the mistake myself you might be tempted to put a 3way cooler onto your seat. Opening it with the back free means the lid always gets stuck on the seat, do it the other way around and you block the airflow. If you do put it on the seat then make sure two things match: 1. The thing is secured properly. 2. The airflow from your aircon is able to reach the hot side of the cooler. Even permanent installations in a camper benefit from a good airflow. Often the fridge or freezer is built into some sort of bench and the airflow behind might be very limited. A simple solution here is to add a vent on top of the bench to allow the hot air to escape. A better one is to use a fan that is powered together with the heating element or compressor and drives the hot air to the outside. How to improve the cold side of the box or fridge? Well, to be honest there is not much that can be done unless you are prepared for some serious work. Depending on compartment size, contents and how full it is a little fan can help to keep the temperatures even but it won't help to get it cooler or reduce the cycling periods for the cooling. The only really working way that I found is to use a "battery" for the storage of the cold. The cooling works by checking the inside temp of the box and if above the set temp the cooling won't stop. This is all well and good while we have a constant supply of power but once we are on batteries it would be great to keep the active time to a minimum. A working solution is to build a container that fits around the cooling element. Smaller types often use an aluminium heatsink, bigger types might come with a compressor and an evaporator. In either case proper sealing is important! Most good models are fully waterproof, meaning even if you would fill them with water they would not leak in other areas than the door. But double check and if in doubt use a bit of silicone to make sure. Ok, but how do we "store" the cold coming from the device? Cold packs ;) These things contain a ready to use mix that holds cold temperatures quite well. Another really good alternative is alcohol or radiator coolant, although the last has limited capabilites in terms of holding capaity for the cold as it is desinged to exchange heat fast rather than to keep it. With a suitable sized and sealed box around the active cooling element we will need longer to actually see any cooling happen (with a warm "battery") but that can be compensated for by good planning or a frozen water bottle. If the cooling element is covered with a box of cooling gel then it has to cool this first before anything happens inside the box. But once it does the pack is already far below the normal temp it would have during normal operation. Remember the inside of the cold pack cools down first before the outside will get cold ;) So once the set temperature is reached the device will shut off. But since the cold pack is far below the set temp it will continue to cool our box until the core is warmer than the set temp. Quick thinkers will now say the benefit is lost as the time required to cool the "battery" down again is much longer than the normal cycle time - and they would be correct. But as we get much colder temps inside the gel box the overall running will still be less compared to normal operation. And since from the second cycle on the gel is only warming up to operating temp of the box it will be much faster than with a warm box. Another benefit might be the ease of cleaning and ice removal. Some peltier driven coolers have big cooling fins or a quite bad design for the heatsink allowing mould to grow where you can't remove it easy. If the box is made from stainless steel and flush with the back wall of the box we won't have that problem anymore. Ok, but how much is good or too much for the size and gel content? You got me there as it is bit tricky. You don't want to loose much usable space for starters and you don't want to wait hours for the gel to cool down if the box was not used. IMHO the size should fit the cooling element with about 20% to spare all around. If stainless steel is not an option than aluminium is the next best choice. Thin sheets can either be be cold formed with a hammer or "brazed" with a good torch and the right rods. Ok, before that route is there anything I should consider or do first? Depends ;) 3-way systems usually use a flame or heating elements to heat an ammoia solution. After years of neglect corrosion can form and reduce the amount of heat transfered into the system and reducing the efficiency this way. It might help to take the heating elements out once a year or so to clean them and the contact areas from any corrosion or dirt build up. With a fixed shedule for this you won't have the problem of never noticing a badly corroded heating element either - and this is the main failure on these systems.... Modifying your camper or making a few mods to your 4WD drawer system is not for the faint of heart and should be done with consideration. The last thing you want to do is rush things to find out it was not necessary. Before cutting holes check if you can't find the room for the fan in a different spot and use ducts to control the airflow - sometimes it is easier to blow air in than to get air out ;) When it comes to creating vents or connections for air to the outside always make sure it is waterproof and insect safe! If you can let the outlet go downwards so water won't run in, for 4WD trailers consider a flap to prevent water from going during a river crossing. Flyscreens will not only prevent insects from coming in but on the inside also prevent dust to go eerywhere - allow to the removal and cleaning! The salts used in these cold packs can be corrosive, so you have to make sure there are no leaks and that there is no steel to come into contact with gel - this includes screw ends hidden in through-holes. If in doubt use a coat of paint but keep it as thin as possible. Even on peltier systems it might be impossible to remove the heatsink without massive surgery on the internals. So before you take it all apart to gain access check if it is far easier to seal around the box opening and possible screw connections using silicone. The cooling battery can be screwed on and sealed with silicone as well as an easy escape route. Although for this to work you need to check if the material of the box allows for a proper bond with the silicone! Some materials just won't allow anything to stick at all, even after sanding them. So do a test first in an area where you would be able to cut the silicone away without causing damage. If you can rip or peel it off the surface you should not try to use a cooling battery screwed to the wall, only use a box that is fully sealed with the cooling element and has a seperate back - one complete unit around the cooling element. I have a 3-way system with a freezer compartment that does the cooling for the fridge too - what can I do? These units either provide good freezing with the fridge temps too low or good fridge cooling with no freezing capabilites - depending on the thermostat used. Our problem is that is next to impossible to add a cooling battery of the normal kind to these systems. The L-shaped freezer box can really only be added with a L-shaped cooling battery from underneath. Only if you don't need any freezing at all you could add a cooling battery to fit into the freezer box shape. In either case the benefit is somehow limited by the way the thermostat is used. If there is no temp control for freezing it should be fine. Warnings... Only peltier driven coolers are free from refrigerants. Every 3-way or compressor system uses refrigerant as evident by more or less piping and heating elements. Never attempt to screw anything into a cooling element containing refrigerant! Even if you think between the channels all will be fine it won't be! The material is just pressed to form the channels and any damage caould mean refrigerant leaking out! Use silicone instead and make sure all surfaces are properly cleaned before applying it, also wait until the silicone is really fully cured before putting any stress on it. As said, these cooling gels can be corrosive, especially if DC voltage is involved. Make sure that everything that is not aluminum or plastic is properly sealed before allowing ongoing contact with cooling gels. Do not attempt any of this if you have to ask yourself what tools you might need or how make a suitable container for the gel. If in doubt check Google on how to work with aluminium or stainless steel if there are not enough Instructables for it. The gel will expand a little bit if it freezes, this no problem in a metal container if you allow for a bit of flex or on the side added strength  - whatever suits you better. Another option is to get a few different cold packs (by the active ingredient) and to do a check in a little container. Freeze it and note whe level cold and warm. Little to no difference means nothing to worry in terms of expansion during freezing.

Topic by Downunder35m 


Laser Rangefinder

A member PM'd me with this question, "hi im asking if i can use the arduino micro controller in distance measuring using laser" My response was "Laser distance is the time of flight of a pulse of light pulse that travels 3 feet in a single nanosecond..." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_rangefinder Do you think the Arduino can execute instructions at a fraction of a nanosecond ? What is the clock frequency of an Arduino ? . Take care of your eyes when using lasers !  

Topic by iceng   |  last reply


use Alexa with x10 house

What do i need for alexa to work with my x10 house i know a computer and a CM17A what else do i need i have alot x10 modules its at one time was voice activated but it was running on widows 95 computer is not working tryrd to get it going  but software is to oil any help is appreciate 

Topic by 4wheels 


Extreme water cooling idea for computer chilling plus dust protection

I started to play around with some compressor cooling devices, otherwise known as fridges, freezers or airconditioners ;) As with everything it started with a lot of reading, some doing, more reading, well you get the point... Anyways, I am now running an old and portable split airconditioner on hydrocarbons instead of the already escaped R22 refrigerant. With all this experimenting I got reminded that my computer does not really like to do hard gaming work on these hot days. There are already a lot of infos out there on how to use water and/or heatpipes to cool your system. One thing that they all have in common is that you need a chiller to cool the water. Now, there are really tons of options here - from using an old bar fridge to hold the water up to big direct chillers that can be used 24/7 and cost a small fortune. Here in Victoria the weather might be more forgiving but up north the humidity will be your main enemy if you want to use any decent cooling system. Imagine 90% humitiy and the water condensing on pipes and coolers inside your computer... Some systems compensate here by using a temp of around 12°C at the lowest to minimise the risk of condensation. But I think we can do better for cheaper if we are willing to get dirty and salvage some scrap. If it also a great way to protect your computer in a dusty and hot workshop enviroment! Let me explain the thought: Considering the costs for a decent air cooled system over the expense for just a basic water cooling kit it might be worth spending the extra money otherwise. What makes a normal and not overclocked computer go too hot assuming it is clean and free from dust? Right - the outside temperature and how hard we actually use it. Normal systems are designed to work at a room temp between 18 and 24°C, we are often lucky to have it under 30 in the summer. Getting a CPU to just under 70° if the outside air is already over 30° is hard if not impossible. But what if the computer would be in one of these fancy server rooms that are kept at 16° throughout the year? Problem solved, just win the lottery to get your server room build. Step back a bit and think again ;) If we make an additional and well insulated enclosure to put the computer in we would only need to worry about making it pretty much air tight and keeping the inside always under 20°C. Now follow me to my imaginary shopping trip... First step is getting a decent sized cooler box - you can build your own of course I would go for these oversizes Esky chests. Next step is a visit to the local hard rubbish collection or scrap yard. We look for a bar fridge or water cooling tower that has a condenser that will fit on the side or back of our cooling box. Prefer something old running on R22 instead of R134a if you can. If the system already has one or two service ports for filling even better, otherwise see you get one from a different fridge or freezer. The fun starts back home where we now make a big mess. The cooling system needs to come apart and if not a tower the fridge around it has to go without damaging pipes or condensers. Perfect would be to have a working system and to keep it in this condition to avoid the illegal escape or refrigerant. It also make it easier than having to refill it again. On the other hand getting a system that is already professionally evacuated as most scrap yards now do anyway can make the modding easier - up to your skill set and options to have the system checked and filled. Once we have a naked cooling system we get the cold side into the cooler box. Either by creating a slot to slide it in or by feeding the hoses through holes if you plan to do your own thing in terms of testing and filling. The compressor part and "hot side" are mounted securely to the outside of the box. If you still have the thermostat working and connected you can now check your homebuild fridge. To get the computer inside you have several option, IMHO the easiest is use one big enough hole to get all cables to the outside. You want this hole to end up as airtight as possible, I found candle wax to be a good sealer if you place some painters tape on the box first. So far this was the easy part, the hard part is now to make sure the humidity inside the box stays as low as possible. When the compressor starts cooling the evaporator will go to very low temperatures, even if you set the thermostat to 10° the cold side will condese or even freeze the moisture in the air. Unlike with direct cooling option inside your computer we now have a "cold trap" outside the coputer that we use to our advantage! Easiest option here is to have a catchment under the cold side to collect the condensing water and to let it discharge through a small tube to the outside. Once the system was operating for a few days there should be no moisture left inside our box unless it is not properly sealed. At this point you could be tempted to just set the thermostat to the coldest possible - I advise against it! Imagine the inside of the box is below freezing - the capacitors won't like it to start with and since we now have all surface subcooled the moisture can condense everywhere not warm enough, including your mainboard. A temp of around 10°C should be more than enough for normal gaming and gives the compressor a chance to turn off every now and then so any ice can drop off and exit. If you like the idea use it and make a featured Instructable out of it, my time is too limited at the moment to get serious with this.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


I need assistance please with trying to run 2 arduino codes at once

Hi. I am new to programming with Arduino so basically I am noob at this and I only know the basic etc. but what I want to do is be able to run 2 codes at the same time, the codes are soundreactive led and relay control via a serial port and because of this I am having problems combing them both don't if any one help ,e with this. Here's the code that I ended up creating.(Testing Sound reactive Led with plug control) as well added the 2 codes that I tried to combine.

Topic by JohnR267   |  last reply


Computer Power Supple to Power 2 Computer Fans

I have a wine fridge with two fans (computer fans)  that cool a massive heat sink, but the temperature gauge is faulty so they constantly power on and power off. I was hoping to remove the existing controller and power the existing computer fans (that are already mounted) with an old Computer Power Supply to have them constantly on. Any ideas?

Topic by AlC23   |  last reply


Repurpose parts

In the last 6 months, I had a 40" hd tv, a modem, a 27" monitor and a laptop  all quit on me for various reasons.  I'm wondering if I take them apart if there are any parts that are worth salvaging.  I have only a basic understanding of electronics but love to tinker and want to take up arduino projects.  What would you salvage if it were you? MK

Topic by MalindaK2   |  last reply


why my asus router is not working ?

Since last night my asus router has stopped working . it is showing yellow light on it . i think my router firmware is not responding so i also tried resetting the router but that does not worked .please help 

Topic by georgejosef   |  last reply


amphibious tank??

We'll ive been building 2 tanks first is a normal rc tank then the second is a better rc tank. i plan to make a third one but i don't want it to be boring,so i decided to make it amphibious.Can anyone suggest me what method to dive and resurface?cause my plan might be to complicated cheers

Topic by Alexander heron the inventor   |  last reply


dc motor with limit switches wireing help

I have a 1998 Trans am that has power windows. The problem is the doors are fiber glass and the motors create a lot of force on the doors creating problems. What I want to do is put a limit switch at the top and bottom of the window travel.        I'm using the factory switch that sends +12 volts in the up or down direction   I have a dc motor, limit switches and dpdt relays. I need to know how to wire it all together. If you could draw a picture that shows all wires from switch to relays to micro switches to motor that would be best. Thank you for your help     E mail dmarker5@hotmail.com

Topic by 123COOPER   |  last reply


Addressable RGB Strip via USB?

Hi All, Im currently looking into RGB Addressable LED strips for my computer and the only option I can find is the NZXT Hue+ which is riddled with issues. Does anyone have information on how I would possibly control these via USB from inside my computer, or if that makes life complicated, over WiFi but powered from a SATA power cable?

Topic by K20Evo   |  last reply


How to cut porcelain steel

Hey everyone! Here's a good one for anyone interested in new techniques! I have some porcelain steel I'm trying to cut and I was wondering if anyone has an idea, tool, or technique that i should try to cut the porcelain coated steel with that won't chip the edges of the ceramic. The porsaline steel is .017" thick the ceramic is .007" inches thick. If anyone could design something that I could use it would be greatly appreciated!

Topic by 2001warrior   |  last reply


Current in IC chip

Hello, It's a bit stupid to ask (I think), but essential to me. From all schematic I readed over intructables I never saw anything or anybody that cared for that. If a IC have a maximum and minimum current to respect ie: 6mA to 10mA, do we even care? Do I need to limit the current somehow? As I said, every schematic I readed never added any resistor or talked about anything relate to limiting the current on the VCC for the integrated circuit. I'm currently building a device that use one 555 timer IC in astable and a few others IC and they are all connected in parralel to the power suply. Thanks

Topic by sxdemon   |  last reply


Micro quadcopter circuit board as flight controller and receiver?

I have a little airhogs quadcopter. A motor had died in it, so it doesn't fly anymore. I kinda got the idea to connect ESCs to the motor output of the quad's circuit board. Would those motor outputs be able to drive the PWM input of the ESC, allowing the board to basically drive larger motors?

Topic by Dashing Rainbow Dash 


why use a transistor when i can use the I/O pins of an ardunio

I keep seeing explanations of the uses of transistors for electronic projects. but i dont understand why i would for example: use a npn as a switch for an LED when i could just program my ardunio to use to turn it on and off again? or use any micro controller for that matter. thankyou in advance for your help im still new to eltronics

Topic by JoshuaH171   |  last reply


Turn laptop speakers into aux speakers

My laptop just died and I took it apart. The speakers have a 4-pin connector, which I would like to splice into aux and power to make an aux enabled speaker I can use. How do I do this? Pics: https://goo.gl/photos/PdyBhVxXLBfJfL3Z8 Thanks and RIP laptop. A little eulogy, because why not: Dear laptop, you will be missed. I had you for 5 years and you were a great machine. I took you apart and put you back together. We had a great time together and you lived a long life. I hope you have a great afterlife as a set of speakers, external monitor, hand warmer, and many more projects. You will be missed.

Topic by Nmoleo­   |  last reply


Cable Ties

At present, I live in a flat I need to connect the indoor tv aerial in the kitchen to a set in the bedroom. This involves leading the cable around doors and possibly across the ceiling, to get to the opposing wall. Under normal circumstance, I could use cable ties with pins, but making holes is not allowed in the flat. I have been told that adhesive cable ties must help, but they appear very difficult to remove, and might leave stains. Any suggestions

Topic by anon_private   |  last reply


Reconditioning Lithium Ion Batteries

I'm looking for a DIY method for reconditioning Lithium Ion batteries. Or, if that's not easily doable, someone who knows to tell me so i can just bite the bullet and buy a new one. Thanks in advance!

Topic by royalestel   |  last reply


GPS tracker for a kid watch

Hello everyone ;  I want to do a watch to track kids with GPS , And I want to know what kind of GPS tracker I will use , the approximate price of the project , or any other information that can  help me  .  And thanks :) ^-^

Topic by Aladin1122   |  last reply


Loudspeaker design advice needed. Mini-array Viston FR10 drivers

Hi all, I'm about to get started on my first set of loudspeaker cabinets. Since quite some time I have 8 Visaton FR10 drivers lying on a shelf and I want to use those. After some research on diy loudspeaker cabinets I came up with the design in the attached drawing. Before I start building a pair of these, I'd like to have some advice on the design. I'd like to keep the costs as low as reasonably possible :). Questions I have and some design considerations: - Are the tubes correctly dimensioned? I used the "vented box calculator" over here to get the dimensions for a cabinet with one driver. I doubled the area of the tube and placed two of them in the cabinet. - I plan to clad the inner walls and the backside of the drivers' frame with convoluted foam. Do I need to fill the inner volume with some kind of polyester wool as well? - I want to use the speakers with my "Serious Amp". Will that work? - I planning to build the speakers without a filter. Is that wise? - The four drivers in each cabinet are in pairs series // parallel, to get a joint impedance of 8 Ohm. - As I understand it from the various forums / websites, it's best to place the drivers in a vertical line. However, the cabinet becomes too tall to fit in my tiny livingroom. I just don't have the floorspace to place them. Am I going to regret that decision? Your advice is appreciated! Y.

Topic by ynze   |  last reply


HAM radio repeater controller arduino

Is there anyone who can help me with a repeater controller, i need a little program which will switch according to input + 3 sec (or something like that) also i want to decode 4 bit paralel data (binary output from a DTMF decoder) and switch outputs accordingly (if correct code is pressed) (thins like identifier, time&date;, last transmitted message) thees functions i will make on separate boards, i just have to trigger them last transmission board needs an input from the arduino when to start, the playback will be done with one of the DTMF-code outputs any advise / code is wildly appreciated :) ps, im very new to arduino and have plenty to learn  kind regards, milan 

Topic by milanhofman   |  last reply


Charging a 70Ah 12volt battery with solar panels

Hi seen your ads on google very enlightening. Was wondering if you could advise me. I have 2 strip lights that i run off my 1000w invertor poweredby a 12v car battery that dies after a while. My kids bought me 2 x 20w solar panels12v. Can i just join the negs and positives together from the panels and connect straight to the battery neg and pos or is more involved. I also have another battery I can join too,Would i need diodes and a controller also? thanks in advance Dougie

Topic by DougieD4   |  last reply


HOW TO SHOW DYNAMIC GPS DATA AND AUTO REFRESH PAGE ON WEB BROWSER ?

Hello, I'm using ESP8266 WIFI module and GPS module. I have connected to ARDUINO UNO R3 board to read the GPS coordinates and transmit them to webpage using ESP8266 WiFi module connected to router. In my code the page change only when I press F5 (refresh) , and so I can see the change of Coordinates. I want to see the changing results dynamically with out refreshing the webpage. what to I need to do /change in order that it will change automatically? please check my code here or in the attachment  and suggest me the changes. Thanks in advance. CODE: // code starts #include #include SoftwareSerial Serial1(2,3);     //   ESP8266 RX pin 2, TX pin 3. SoftwareSerial gps(11, 10);       //   GPS RX pin 10, TX pin 11.   boolean No_IP=false; String IP=""; String webpage=""; int i=0,k=0; int  gps_status=0; String name=" Name: XXXXXXXX ";   //22 String date="DATE: DD MM YYYY";     //21 String number=" Vehicle No.: ABC 0000";//29 String cordinat="Coordinates:";          //17 String latitude=""; String logitude="";                       String gpsString=""; char *test="$GPGGA"; void check4IP(int t1) {   int t2=millis();   while(t2+t1>millis())   {     while(Serial1.available()>0)     {       if(Serial1.find("WIFI GOT IP"))       {         No_IP=true;       }     }   } } void get_ip() {   IP="";   char ch=0;   while(1)   {     Serial1.println("AT+CIFSR");     while(Serial1.available()>0)     {       if(Serial1.find("STAIP,"))       {         delay(1000);         Serial.print("IP Address:");         while(Serial1.available()>0)         {           ch=Serial1.read();           if(ch=='+')           break;           IP+=ch;         }       }       if(ch=='+')       break;     }     if(ch=='+')     break;     delay(1000);   }   Serial.print(IP);   Serial.print("Port:");   Serial.println(80);   delay(1000); } void connect_wifi(String cmd, int t) {   int temp=0,i=0;   while(1)   {     Serial.println(cmd);     Serial1.println(cmd);     while(Serial1.available()>0)     {       if(Serial1.find("OK"))       {       i=8;       }     }     delay(t);     if(i>5)     break;     i++;   }   if(i==8)   {     Serial.println("OK");   }   else   {   Serial.println("Error");   }   delay(1000); } void setup() {   Serial1.begin(9600);   Serial.begin(9600);   delay(1000);   connect_wifi("AT",1000);   connect_wifi("AT+CWMODE=3",1000);   connect_wifi("AT+CWQAP",1000);    connect_wifi("AT+RST",5000);   check4IP(5000);   if(!No_IP)       {         Serial.println("Connecting Wifi....");         connect_wifi("AT+CWJAP=\"MountPointTech\",\"MpTl2013\"",7000);   //AT+CWJAP="wifi_username","wifi_password"       }       else         {         }       Serial.println("Wifi Connected");       get_ip();       delay(2000);       connect_wifi("AT+CIPMUX=1",100);       connect_wifi("AT+CIPSERVER=1,80",100);       Serial1.end();       Serial.println("Waiting For GPS");       Serial.println("     Signal    ");       delay(2000);       gps.begin(9600);       get_gps();       show_coordinate();       gps.end();       Serial1.begin(9600);       delay(2000);      Serial.println("GPS is Ready");       delay(1000);       Serial.println("System Ready.."); } void loop() {   k=0;   Serial.println("Please Refresh Ur Page");   while(k<1000)   {     k++;    while(Serial1.available())    {     if(Serial1.find("0,CONNECT"))     {       Serial1.end();         gps.begin(9600);       get_gps();       gps.end();       Serial1.begin(9600);       Serial1.flush();       Serial.println("Start Printing");       Send();       show_coordinate();       Serial.println("Done Printing");       delay(5000);       //delay(1000);       k=1200;       break;     }   }   delay(1); } } void gpsEvent() {   gpsString="";   while(1)   {    while (gps.available()>0)                //Serial incoming data from GPS    {     char inChar = (char)gps.read();      gpsString+= inChar;                    //store incoming data from GPS to temporary string str[]      i++;      if (i < 7)                           {       if(gpsString[i-1] != test[i-1])       //check for right string       {         i=0;         gpsString="";       }      }     if(inChar=='\r')     {      if(i>65)      {        gps_status=1;        break;      }      else      {        i=0;      }     }   }    if(gps_status)     break;   } } void get_gps() {    gps_status=0;    int x=0;    while(gps_status==0)    {     gpsEvent();     int str_lenth=i;     latitude="";     logitude="";     coordinate2dec();         i=0;x=0;     str_lenth=0;    } } void show_coordinate() {         Serial.print("Latitude:");     Serial.println(latitude);     Serial.print("Longitude:");     Serial.println(logitude); } void coordinate2dec() {         //j=0;     String lat_degree="";     for(i=18;i<20;i++)          //extract latitude from string       lat_degree+=gpsString;         String lat_minut="";     for(i=20;i<28;i++)       lat_minut+=gpsString;         String long_degree="";     for(i=30;i<33;i++)          //extract longitude from string       long_degree+=gpsString;           String long_minut="";     for(i=33;i<41;i++)       long_minut+=gpsString;            float minut= lat_minut.toFloat();      minut=minut/60;      float degree=lat_degree.toFloat();      latitude=degree+minut;           minut= long_minut.toFloat();      minut=minut/60;      degree=long_degree.toFloat();      logitude=degree+minut; } void Send() {            webpage = "Welcome to MountPoint Technologies Pvt Ltd";       webpage+=name;       webpage+=date;       webpage+=number;       webpage+=cordinat;       webpage+="Latitude:";       webpage+=latitude;       webpage+="";       webpage+="Longitude:";       webpage+=logitude;       webpage+="";       webpage+= "       webpage+=latitude;       webpage+='+';              //28.612953, 77.231545   //28.612953,77.2293563       webpage+=logitude;       webpage+="\">Click Here for google map ";       sendwebdata();       webpage="";        while(1)          {       Serial.println("AT+CIPCLOSE=0");       Serial1.println("AT+CIPCLOSE=0");       while(Serial1.available())       {         //Serial.print(Serial1.read());         if(Serial1.find("0,CLOSE"))         {           return;         }       }       delay(500);       i++;       if(i>5)       {         i=0;       }       if(i==0)       break;      } } void sendwebdata() {      i=0;      while(1)      {       unsigned int l=webpage.length();       Serial1.print("AT+CIPSEND=0,");       Serial1.println(l+2);       Serial.println(l+2);       Serial.println(webpage);       Serial1.println(webpage);       while(Serial1.available())       {         if(Serial1.find("OK"))         {          return;         }       }             i++;       if(i>5)         i=0;         if(i==0)         break;       delay(200);      } } // end of code.

Topic by shivendrareddy 


Potentiometer and motor isn't working properly

Hello, I'm fairly new to electronics and i am currently working on project involving an adjustable motor. basically the circuit is just a nine volt battery going through a potentiometer and into a 6-9 volt motor. however the motor only spins when the potentiometer is turned to max. the potentiometer is a 10k.

Topic by kanp1   |  last reply


Arduino and scavenged LCDs

Hey guys i've recently received an Arduino Uno (tech-mas gifts !) and have started trying stuff out, i also had 2 old cellphones that i hadn't used for years, so i scavenged the vibrators and screens and left the rest untouched(no ripping appart, worry not) now i see that the screens both have a plastic thing with a lot if very tiny pins sticking out of them, and i wonder if there would be any way i can connect these to the arduino and use them as displays (was thinking of a smart-not-phone, wich does all the funny stuff a smartphone does without the phonecalls), please keep in mind i have a very basic set of tools (the arduino, a breadboard and the "starter pack"(with leds resistors ect...), plus a soldering iron, and would like to keep this project salvage based if possible (no money for smart-not-phones) info i could find on the displays: 1st one is a LMS240GF12,(non touchscreen) i couldnt find any info on this model but a few similar displays with lms241 or 242 names exist, so i guess the specs should be similar ? 2nd one is the touchscreen that came with a HTC Wildfire phone, and i think the display serial would be A3333 G8 but i'm not sure, none of the information is labelled and internet has been of little help as of now ^^. If you have any tips or need more info i'll be glad to receive them

Topic by poolm   |  last reply


How Can I Reduce Current Without Dropping The Voltage?

Hello friends,                       i am making home automation with IR sensor , The problem is that the IR sensor sends random garbage values to arduino's serial monitor when connected to external power supply. The external power supply has output of 5v DC voltage and 2000mA current. The whole system worked perfectly when I take power from computer's USB port . The problem is how to reduce the current to 0 -500 mA of external power supply. thank you !

Topic by RakeshL1   |  last reply


I Need Help In Understanding Electric Motor Dynamometer Testing AC and DC

OK extremely long time reader but first time poster. I need some help understanding dynamometer for electric motors. I would like to test motors under load up to 5HP. I have several motors and I would like to use a selected motor as the generator load. I understand this is a very broad question but I have to start somewhere.   What are some things I might need? Here are some things I have. Motor speed controller  Motor torque controller Electric motors off all sizes 1/3 to 20HP Some have a brake installed. Would I need to use a motor with a brake and apply the brake as the load? I don't want to use water or any fluids as a braking system. Also regenerative would be great also. I thank you for the help.

Topic by d-stan1987   |  last reply


Mobile phone wind generator

Hi at school, I am making a mobile phone generator. It's only GCSE so my apologies for my lack of knowledge. It is meant to be a "wind generator" but it can basically be a renewable generator via motion. So since I get to take it home afterwards I designed it to be a little record player where you turned the platter and it would change a phone. This is where I need some help. Would this 24v motor provide enough juice to charge a lithium ion battery (with a boost or buck converter [if needed to step down to an appropriate voltage] then a constant current protection circuit etc) the output 5v to charge your phone? Here is the motor: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/2483716/?grossPr...|pcrid|88056614883|pkw||pmt||prd|2483716&gclid;=CjwKEAiA4dPCBRCM4dqhlv2R1R8SJABom9pHi1B_sRuR-4nr15ce-EWd51aCsEfYqFBsUJioUXEpvRoC1unw_wcB Thanks! For non-British readers :  a GCSE is (in the UK except Scotland) a qualification in a specific subject typically taken by school students aged 14–16, at a level below A level.

Topic by MukymooD   |  last reply


61 Key Keybed to PC help?

Hey there guys, really need some help with my M Audio Key Station 61 I purchased it on eBay as Spares or Repairs but unfortunately the PCB is just totally fried and I don't see a way around that (Seller clearly knew the keyboard was totally ruined) But, it does have a really nice 61 key keybed and the case is is really good condition, everything else works bar the motherboard    I was wondering if there's a dev board or an Arduino or something I can hook the keybed up to so I can use it on my computer  Any help would be great with suggestions/links ect, quite lost!  

Topic by OscarA97   |  last reply


How to install Windows XP IN PLACE OF Android on a phone

I have a Moto E first gen smartphone and a copy of Windows XP lying around, and I was wondering if it would be possible to install XP in place of Android on it. I don't want to run XP on top of Android, I want to erase Android and make XP the only OS on the device. Is this possible? And yes, I know it wouldn't really be useful for anything, it's just for fun.

Topic by JedR5   |  last reply


How to write text on image by php

How to write text on image by php 

Topic by mukru   |  last reply


How do I make a touchscreen that requires a stylus?

I want to either make a touchscreen or install one (though I don't know where I would source the parts for that).  Basically I don't want the touchscreen to pick up on my hand.  I have a Wacom Bamboo tablet which requires a stylus and that's essentially what I want here.  That would most likely be an inductive touchscreen, so I'd be interested in making something like that.  Preferably mostly see-through if possible. Basically: How would I make that (or where would I buy a raw element for something like that), and how difficult would it be to interface with that (i.e. via microcontroller). Thanks.

Topic by thatgamesguy   |  last reply


led wiring with 12 volts in AA batteries

i just made a huge 50cm x 130 cm inifinity mirror with 2 strands of 3528 led strip lighting left over approx 1' long left over. I am on the attempt of making small portable infinity mirrors and coaster seem like the best idea for them. i wired it all good and i am done now however i appear to have a problem Step 1: Infinity Coaster everything works well until it has been left on for 2 mins. even when i turn off the lights, the batteries get super hot. They are cheap dollar store AA batteries but almost too hot to touch even when it is turned off. i figured maybe i have a short somewhere but i cannot find one with the multimeter. is it just that i have too much amperage for too little of an LED strip? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvYCstmnIfY they stopped turning on the lights when they got hot but i tried again to shoot this video clip and they worked pretty good. A little slow to light up still so some of the juice is gone i imagine. if you know these strips give me a clue. if i find out the problem, i can make a solution and make another instructable on how its made with # 2. it is Christmas after all and somebody needs a coaster for their egg-nog.  these pics arent great let me know if you wanna see wiring more clearely

Topic by DavidS477   |  last reply


how to open two word files in command prompt

How do i open two word files using notepad-batch files.if i write it without something between the two words but it doesn't work. what do i write between the words

Topic by thermoelectric   |  last reply


How to step down and convert wall outlet to 24 VDC?

Hi I am working on a project and i need to convert 120 VAC from a wall outlet to 24 VDC to run my device. I was wondering if anyone has a suggestion if i should first transform the 120 VAC to 24 VAC and then convert the 24 VAC to 24 VDC? or if there is a 120 VAC to 24 VDC with a normal wall plug for sale. 

Topic by mkapler13   |  last reply