Thinking about a diy laptop i would love a singleboard pc that could run windows and some modern games on low settings :) any ideas? Thanks!
Topic by tjacobs5 | last reply
Please I need a solution to my hp pavilion dv8000 that has refused to turn on, it shows that it is plugged in b'cos the adapter is working properly but I think it is a power problem. the board is not receiving any charge or current.. please i need some answers. this is my mail.. email@example.com
Question by babaze | last reply
I got a new PC board from radio shack and I am going to be making a little flashlight. I don't think the board is interconnected in any way, so is it ok for me just to use melted solder as a lead from one spot to another, like connecting the pos and neg of two led's. If this isn't right, what is the proper way to use those PC boards.
Question by jj.inc | last reply
I really want to make a tablet pc which is probably completely out of my depth but hey theres no harm in trying. obviously at home making a logic board for one would be very difficult and i wouldn't know where to start with the schematic. i was wondering if any companies do it or if there is a generic board that alot of the tablets use that i could buy. i dont see any problem with obtaining a screen and designing/ making a case. i obviously can't use a computer motherboard because of the size and heat of it. can anyone help? thanks in advance
Question by MANIAC | last reply
Hi all, Something that's been bothering me for years (I clearly have no life)... Why are traces on printed circuit boards sometimes very squiggly, when there's an obvious shorter, straighter path. I've attached a picture of a PC RAM card that shows what I mean. Thanks!
Question by Morgantao | last reply
I want to know if i were to solder wires from the buttons on the N64 controller to the circuit board of the keyboard so that if i were to press A on the N64 controller it would press a on the keyboard or if i were to move the joystick it would affect WASD
Question by four_eyes954 | last reply
Machine will not POST - no beep, BIOS smart fan-control not engaging, PS2 keyboard has no power, monitor reads "no signal" Board does have power - things spin (like the CPU fan which shouldn't until it gets hot) Preceding clues(?) - I thought I'd developed tinnitus, but found it was the PSU (I think) making a high-pitched ringing noise, half the day unplugged and that seemed to go away. Display not engaging properly on start-up: If I waited until the machine got to Windows login and then switch the monitor on - no problem. Switching the monitor on before this point - black sort of standby mode. I think I might try the PSU first, then think about the mainboard. So far I've plugeed and re-plugged things, tried with 0,1 & 2 strips of RAM with no difference. Any suggestions welcome I spent a lot of time replacing 1 cap' in the PSU, then I replaced the PSU (logic being that if I've tampered with it an the thing still doesn't work I should replace it regardless) Then I bought a new board. I was a bloody-sod, CD/DVD still doesn't work... L
Topic by lemonie | last reply
I have a lilypad arduino usb - atmega32u4 board and when I plug in via USB on the PC (Windows 7) nothing happens. There is no sound from windows that something is connected. Nothing under Device Manager. I tried reinstalling Arduino IDE but still cannot detect the lilypad. Any suggestions what could be the problem?
Topic by SakhumziS | last reply
Hi there, I recenlty purchased a M.NT68676.2A LVDS board and connected up to my raspberry pi. All of this is working fine however the setup at the moment looks like frankensteins attempt at a pc, so i was wondering what is the best way to go about building a box to contain my setup, bearing in mind i have no CAd or the like expereince and no access to a 3d printer (no small ask i know) I want the box to be able to support a 15" laptop screen and have the ports accessible on the outside. Look forward to some ideas. Thanks
Topic by RobertW292
I have a radioshack 45 watt desoldering iron, and it wont work correctly on the pc boards out of a sony television, it will melt and suck up some of the solder, but not all of it so I can't get the parts such and sockets and such out correctly. However it works perfectly on a pc boards out of things such as power supplies. It wouldnt even work right after i put a brand new tip on it. Any ideas? thanks in advance.
Question by fatfoohy | last reply
Hi guys! I'm building a dtm series racing steering (replica) and i have 11 push buttons plus 1 rotary encoder with push so 14 inputs in total. I'm able to make it work with an Arduino pro micro but i want to make it wireless! Bluetooth is in my mind for this project. I was looking for the bluefruit ez-key but it's discontinued so the feather line are probably the way to go Now but there's more than one models that are bluetooth and i want to choose the right one for my project! If someone can recommend me one ore even other brand. I'll need all the stuff like lipo battery, charging board .. thanks!
Topic by AlexS229
I recently made a old antiquated PC I owned into a mobile work space/storage. Sadly I thought I wasn't living up to it potential, so I decided to ask the always helpful instructables community for help. I am looking for any idea that improves the look, functionality, storage, of efficiency of the workstation. (But mostly the first two) Box Current Specs. 1.5-12V power supply, cant be removed. See picture 1, its the box behind the two probes. Lots of space, Im not afraid to tear anything out of the box to make room for something better. Honestly Its pretty crappy at the moment with just some plastic board shelves holding supplies. I will take any ideas, I would love for this box to become a great instructables project. Pictures, Picture 1 is current box, again not afraid to change it. Picture 2 is raw space, (minus shelving) keep in mind the power supply case could also rig sliding drawers.
Topic by JosephR107 | last reply
Hi everyone, I've set up a mediacenter with openelec on my orange pi PC. I've put a large heatsink on cup and rams and a small 5V 0.15Ah cooling fan. With two switches I am able to switch it on and off and choose between 5V or 3.3V alimentations from the GPIO. The 3.3v is intended to spin that fan not at full speed to reduce noise while watching film or listening to music with the mediacenter. I left the PC all the night open downloading torrent, and the morning later the fan wasn't spinning anymore. I powered off the system and used a day later. The fan were at that moment working. So my question are: Is it better to put an external voltage regulator (lm317)? Anyone can explain what happened? As I recently discovered that with zener diodes we are able to clamp the voltage to a specific value (if putted in the "opposite" direction, I guess), I was thinking if it were possible to use one of them in this case.
Topic by BBQ Bee | last reply
Hey there guys, really need some help with my M Audio Key Station 61 I purchased it on eBay as Spares or Repairs but unfortunately the PCB is just totally fried and I don't see a way around that (Seller clearly knew the keyboard was totally ruined) But, it does have a really nice 61 key keybed and the case is is really good condition, everything else works bar the motherboard I was wondering if there's a dev board or an Arduino or something I can hook the keybed up to so I can use it on my computer Any help would be great with suggestions/links ect, quite lost!
Topic by OscarA97 | last reply
Hi, I have an antenna (see picture 1). Is this antenna appropriate for using as a WiFi extender? And how should I solder the wires from the antenna's to the print board? (picture 0)
Question by DELETED_Electorials | last reply
I am a beginner with microcontrolllers. I have a dev board with serial interface but when I connect it to PC, I can't program it, avrdude refuses to detect it. Am I missing something? It has an atmega16L 8PU, and a MAX232N but no crystal. Can't I directly program it using serial port with PC?
Question by ethanol47 | last reply
I am looking into making a custom membrane keyboard, but i have not found a way to wire one to work with a computer to use it as a keypad...
Question by ClemensY290 | last reply
An idea has occurred to me about how PC boards are currently made. The normal process now is a destructive one, where unwanted copper is etched away. What about figuring a way to electroplate the traces onto a substrate? Various toys and model parts are made of plastic, and yet have been electroplated with a cheap form of chrome. Why not apply that to PC boards? I'm thinking that a photographically negative mask could be used in a photo-sensitive process to apply the conductive surface to a heat resistant substrate, and then the copper traces could be electroplated on. Anyone have any thoughts on this, primarily at a hobbyist level? **note - cross posted in burning questions.
Topic by charlie_r | last reply
I'm running Ubuntu 8.10 on an AMD 64 PC. I am looking for a layout tool to help build circuits on strip board. I have tried Windows apps under Wine but this is not very reliable.
I am into electronics, but have had to use pre made PC boards. there is nothing wrong with this, but it can sometimes be inconvenient, and more difficult when the time comes to put the circuit board together. I have seen instructables on how to make custom printed circuit boards, but they all used laser printers. I do not own a laser printer, and cannot really afford to buy one. Is there a way to etch boards without a laser printer, and if so how?
Question by Higgs Boson | last reply
Sparkfun makes an excellent breakout board for Silicon Laboratories' CP2101 IC. It looks like this board could be used to connect a PC to your microprocessor through a USB port without having to use a MAX232 IC to convert the TTL voltage levels to the serial port voltage levels and then a USB to serial converter. Drivers are available so the PC sees the CP2101 as a COM port so hyper-terminal could be used to communicate with the microP. The 'S' in USB stands for serial, it should would be nice to connect a PC to a microP using only one piece of hardware. Am I right about the CP2101 providing this ability?
Question by nolte919 | last reply
I finished building my computer a while ago, but initially removed the BIOS speaker as it kept beeping. Not a full alarm like if it were overheating, just a pathetic little "bip" every 10 minutes or so. The speaker is connected properly and it is the one that came with the board, and it makes a proper beep when I turn the computer on. I have disabled the CPU fan warning as I had it connected to my fan controller instead, and I also have thermal sensors on everything and everything runs nice and cool, so I honestly can't figure out what the problem is. I thought it may have been my dying hard drive, but I have replaced it now with a brand new hitachi 500gb sata-II drive that runs smoothly and I still get the problem (it just went off again whilst tying this). Any idea on what could be causing this problem and how to fix it (without removing the speaker). I have also tried it on Ubuntu and Windows, and I get the same problem, not that it should matter.
Question by andy70707 | last reply
Sparkfun makes an excellent breakout board for Silicon Laboratories' CP2101 IC. It looks like this board could be used to connect a PC to your microprocessor through a USB port without having to use a MAX232 IC to convert the TTL voltage levels to the serial port voltage levels and then a USB to serial converter. Drivers are available so the PC sees the CP2101 as a COM port so hyper-terminal could be used to communicate with the microP. The 'S' in USB stands for serial, it should would be nice to connect a PC to a microP using only one piece of hardware. Am I right about the CP2101 providing this ability?Any opinions would be appreciated.
Topic by nolte919 | last reply
I bought the RAMPS and Arduino Mega 2560 and 5 stepper drivers. I plugged in everything to the pc and everything was working perfectly. I installed all my arduino drivers easily. Then at my friends place when I plugged the psu to the mains and turned everything on, 1 of the stepper drivers started smoking from the chip attached to it and got fried. I think it was due to too much voltage. After a while removing the burnt driver when I connected my Arduino to the pc, the pc does not find its hardware. Only this 1 light stays on and nothing happens. I don't see that there is any physical damage to the board.. but there might be .. I am not sure what to do now.. I want to know if I can check wether the board is still working and how can I connect it to the pc?
Question by SowmenD | last reply
Hi all. I just got a Picaxe o8M and a Picaxe 08 Proto Board. I have used it successfully, but ever since I used it on my OTHER pc, I wasnt able to program it with my newer pc. Now I cant program it at all... WHAT TO DO??? The hardware works fine. I am using a SERIAL cable. And YES, I DID have the head pin thing o the prog. position. PLEASE HELP!!! THANKS!!!!!
Question by sci4me | last reply
I'm building a circuit to read bits from a RS232c PC serial interface and command LEDs groups, a bit a group. Bits are sent by a PHP code written on a site to accessed anywhere. The circuit board must then be plugged on the laptop at place where the LEDs are installed. Please, can anyone help me on building this project? I appreciate any help.
Wii Motion controller printed curcuitboard. I want to install remote A and B buttons for myWii controller. I can take the unit apart. The A button looks straignt forward but the B button is comprised of four wedge shaped pads. Where to a make solder connections to the PC board for the B button??
Question by maxthrottle | last reply
I know my basics around wiring and soldering, but I need some help in finding the area on the Logitech Dual Action game pad circuit board I should solder the potentiometers for the Wheel and the three pedals. Also, what Ohm Potentiometer should I use for this controller? I have a few 100K pots left over from a guitar project, but I'm not sure if it'll be too much for the controller. Attached are a couple of pictures of the circuit board (not mine). Thanks!
Question by Klowd_13
My Arduino Uno R3 was working properly, but I connected it to a power supply board along with relays and GSM modem and some voltage fluctuations and blinking occurred. I immediately disconnected everything from it and connected Arduino to my PC. But I was not able to upload any programs to it. avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding I was getting this error report. I disconnected every connections from it, but still I was not able to upload programs to it. When connected to PC the 'ON' and 'L' LEDs are glowing steadily. No blinking occurs to 'L' LED even when the reset button is pressed. Also the micro-controller chip is getting overheated(By a little more than usual). There is no problem with my USB drivers because I am sure that it was working fine on Windows and Linux. Can you please tell me what the problem is and how to fix it? -Thanks
Question by 1nventor | last reply
Its from an acer travelmate 5530, i still have the board it was attached to, but the piece itself has 10 pins sticking out of it, there is a chip on the board that the finger scanner was connected to that has a 8 pin chip, then the 2 mouse buttons, and a interface cable. is it even feasibly possible to reuse this fingerprint scanner?
Question by zack247 | last reply
I'm currently working on a POV hard drive clock. Instead of designing and building a separate circuit to drive the motor in the hard drive, I thought I'd just power the circuit board of the hard drive and let that spin the motor itself. I gave it gnd, 5v and 12v and it spun up, fast and stable too. ~30 seconds later, it stopped spinning and the only way to make it spin again was to turn the power off and turn it on again. Obviously this isn't good for a hard drive clock as it needs to be spinning constantly So how can I make the hard drive spin constantly? Can I pulse a request line on the IDE cable every once in a while or do I need to actually transfer data to and from the hard drive? If it isn't too complicated I could program a PIC chip to talk to the hard drive to keep it spinning but I'm not sure about the structure of the data or how to talk to the hard drive. Anyone know the simplest way to keep it spinning? Thanks, Louis.
Question by lofty | last reply
Hello Everyone, My name is Glenn and I'm new here. Last year I built a 10 cue fireworks igniter. It was really simple and straight forward. This year I disassembled it and am trying to build a wireless RF igniter. Question 1: I want to make it a 48 channel igniter but all I can find is 15 channel boards, does anyone know how I can overcome this issue? Question 2: I'm using a 12V DC lead acid rechargeable battery and would like to add an internal battery charger with a red charging light and a green charge complete light. I'm definitely electronically challenged so I have no idea how to accomplish this, can someone help? And finally, Question 3: I would like to also add in internal continuity tester but once again, I have no idea how to do it without setting off the firework it's attached to. If someone could help me I'd certainly appreciate it, thanks for reading and I hope everyone has a blessed day. -Glenn?
Question by Music_Man608 | last reply
I have an RFID reader and a mini - usb convertor for it. . I have the ID-12 reader and the usb board from SparkFun and need to know how I can read data off of the usb board on a PC. I have Hyper-Terminal, but when I plug in the reader to the usb port and open the program, it will not read any of my cards. The reader itself still beeps and blinks with a green led.
Question by Data643 | last reply
I tried to connect my Arduino Due to my pc to upload a program but it is not recognized by my computer. I updated the IDE to the latest that includes Due board selection, but I can't download drivers to use it. Nothing is listed in Device Manager and I tried both the programming port and the native port on the Due. Is it dead?
Question by Arya42 | last reply
I have a acer aspire 5542, And would like to know the mother broad it uses Thanks for your help Brand Acer Model Aspire 5542 Operating system Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit Processor / Graphics AMD Athlon II Dual-Core M300 2.00 GHz ATI Mobility Radeon HD 4200 Series Memory 4 GB Dual-Channel DDR2 SDRAM 667 MHz Hard drive SATA 500 GB HDD 5400 rpm Display / Resolution 15.6-inch HD 1366×76 resolution high brightness Acer CineCrystal TFT LCD, 16:9 aspect ratio, 8 ms response time, 60% color gamut Removable Storage 8X DVD-Super Multi double-layer drive Wireless Support Atheros AR5B93 Wireless Network Adapter 802.11 n, b, g Communications Broadcom NetLink Gigabit Ethernet, HDAUDIO Soft Fax Modem with SmartCP, Acer Video Conferencing with Integrated Acer Crystal Eye Webcamer featuring 640×480 resolution, Bluetooth 2.1 Input Devices Full-size keyboard including number pad, Synaptics touchpad with Multi-Gesture support Power 6-cell Li-ion with up to 3 hours of battery life Accessories Extra battery, external USB floppy, extra AC adapter Security software/features Acer Backup Manager1, Acer Bio-Protection1, Acer eRecovery Management, McAfee® Internet Security Suite 2009 Trial, MyWinLocker®, Nortonâ„¢ Online Backup Other Software Acer Arcadeâ„¢ Deluxe featuring Acer CinemaVisionâ„¢ and Acer ClearVisionâ„¢ technologies, Acer Crystal Eye, Acer GridVistaâ„¢, Acer Launch Manager, Adobe® Flash® Player, Adobe® Reader®, EarthLink®1, eSobiâ„¢, Google Toolbarâ„¢, Microsoft® Works with Office Home and Student 2007 Trial, NetZero®, NTI Media Makerâ„¢, Oberon GameZone, WildTangent® Memory card reader Media Card Reader supporting SD, MMC, RS-MMC, MS, MS Pro, xD Accessible memory slots 2 slots Maximum Memory Expansion Up to 4 GB Ports Headphone/speaker/line-out jack with S/PDIF support, Microphone-in jack, Line-In jack, Ethernet (RJ-45) port, Modem (RJ-11) port, DC-in jack for AC adapter Additional Ports None Audio Dolby®-optimized surround sound system with two built-in stereo speakers, Optimized 3rd Generation Dolby Home Theater® audio enhancement, featuring Dolby® Digital Live, Dolby® Pro Logic® IIx, Dolby® Headphone, Dolby® Natural Bass, Dolby® Sound Space Expander, Dolby® Audio Optimization, Dolby® High Frequency Enhancer technologies10, True 5.1-channel surround sound output High-definition audio support S/PDIF (Sony/Philips Digital Interface)11 support for digital speakers, MS-Sound compatible Built-in microphone ENERGY STAR Qualified Energy Star 5.0 Weight 6.16 lbs (2.8 kg) with battery Dimension 15.1 x 9.9 x 1.03 to 1.5 inches, 383 x 250 x 26 to 37 mm Thinness 1.03 to 15 inches, 26 to 37 mm Network Card Broadcom NetLink Gigabit Ethernet, HDAUDIO Soft Fax Modem with SmartCP PC Card Slot None Webcam Acer Crystal Eye Webcamera featuring 640×480 resolution Multimedia and Entertainment Acer Arcadeâ„¢ Deluxe featuring Acer CinemaVisionâ„¢ and Acer ClearVisionâ„¢ technologies, Acer Crystal Eye, Adobe® Flash® Player, NTI Media Makerâ„¢, Oberon GameZone, WildTangent® Warranty Limited 1-year and 90 day warranty options available depending on country, 1-year limited warranty on primary battery. Optional HP Care Pack Services extended warranty
Question by andreblue
I have some CCFL's that i want to switch on and off with an Arduino like board. I think i have wired them up right but it doesn't seem to be working. I'm using the IRF530 MOSFET (data sheet here: www.rapidonline.com/pdf/47-0522.pdf) and i'm powering the CCFL's from an old PC power supply.
Question by cheesemarathon | last reply
I have a digital and analog multi meter and the board has blew up but evreything elce on it works but what could i use the digital screen the analog pointer and the rest of the guts for? i want to build a custom pc so if they could be used for that even better
Question by nonamesleft | last reply
Thought id seek a bit of pro advice from the forums for my first post as im totally drawing blanks on this one!. i am trying to finish my custom lightbox made from an old hanns.g hh281 monitor. at the moment, when powered on, the backlight turns on then off after a few seconds as no pc signal is being received. i have taken a picture of the connector to the main board as i cannot figure out which 2 pins to bridge to keep the ccfl backlights on :-( i was guessing one of the ground pin and the on/off would work but didnt want to mess this up on the first go . any input would be a godsend! thanks all!
Topic by Aikon359 | last reply
Last night, I wanted some files off my laptop drive, so I stuck it in an external enclosure and plugged it into my desktop (whilst on). I then turned off the desktop without unplugging my laptop drive and turned it on again today, forgetting to unplug it. I have USB booting enabled, so it tried to boot from the laptop drive and as I was out of the room when it was booting, it entered the recovery partition as the hardware is incompatible. I have done this before, so I just turned off my computer, unplugged the drive, and restarted. Instead of booting from my primary internal drive, it got stuck on the post screen. It detected it, but wouldn't go any further. I then thought that it was still looking for the USB drive, so changed the boot order and removed usb boot, same problem. Removing my primary drive just returned the error "disk boot error, insert boot drive and press enter to continue", so I inserted the primary hard drive (I have it in a hot-swap bay, so it can easily be removed, although being my primary hard drive, not "hot"). After doing so, it kept returning a similar error. I then figured that it was still looking for my laptop drive as a primary boot device, so I cleared CMOS with the jumper and after setting it up again, disabling every other bootable interface except the sata port my primary drive is connected to, and it still just gets stuck on post. I have left it about 10 mins and still get the same problem. It is also hard to enter BIOS or any of the other utilities, as it waits until after post, so I have to either remove all drives or insert the laptop drive in it's enclosure. How can I get my desktop to boot from the primary hard drive again? Inserting the install disk is also hard, because I don't actually have a DVD drive yet, so I installed Windows 7 extended trial through a memory stick from my laptop with a disk drive. I have since deleted it off my memory stick, and my laptop is now in pieces hooked up to my monitor/keyboard/mouse instead of my desktop. It is on it's back and the hard drive bay is open in case I need it again. My BIOS is award with additional features on a Gigabyte GA-H55M-USB3 board. Both drives are Hitachi sata-II drives, one being 3.5" and one being 2.5".
Question by andy70707 | last reply
Hi everybody, recently I hired a new ISP company (italy) with a SO AWESOME VOD TV service, like netflix and also live tv, , the app works very great and with a good quality, the problem it's only available for LG and SAMSUNG smartTV, no way to watch it on PC; mobile, chromcast.... So... i have 2 more Sony TV and a 4k Projector and i don't find a dam solution to watch this app on rather than buy another 2 LG/SAM tvs and throw the projector (which is not an option hehe) So I wonder if I can just buy a broken LG/SAM TV (even a new one) and use the smart TV board as player, I think, it's pretty easy to just unattach the board and put a power supply, but i wonder what kind of video interface this board uses, I will need any kind of magical WHATEVER to HDMI converter, and also it need to have audio aswell I read most of the TV use proprietary interface / connector to send image to the panel, the app it's compatible with more than 200 models from LG and Samsung, maybe you guys know the exact model i shloud find to "hack" the board in most easy way Thanks!
Topic by srcastor | last reply
I found an old portable sterio but the cd player and tape deck did not work but the radio did so i took the pc board out that has the radio guts on but now im lost the wires coming out of it say s/m rch lch gnd +B Has anyone got a clue what thease mean im guessing rch and lch is right and left chanal for the speakers but the s/m and +b is throughing me
Question by nonamesleft | last reply
I am trying to identify 3 IC chips for possible use with the https://www.instructables.com/id/Headphone-amplifier/ project. They areall from cd drives for old PCs. 3414A 964N JRC Manufacture by TOP-G Model #: BCD E520C 565 973 JRC Mitsumi Model: CRMC-FX4824T The headphone piece was seperate of the main board (as well as the next one) and is labeled Mitsumi 74-4602A 5216 3YB Matsushita-Kotobuki Model: CR-563-B Seperate board label: LMJB0187B I have had zero luck finding these but I've never had any luck finding IC chips.
Question by Andale_The_Great | last reply