Saltwater Etch question - Rubber

Hey y'all, I have another question related to etching my iPod. I took it apart, and now have the aluminum housing with a piece of rubber (latex?) connected to it (the buttons). Do y'all think that the saltwater or current would have any negative effects on it? Thanks!

Topic by Bran   |  last reply

PCB etching question?

I wanted to start making PCBs. However, I read that because the chemicals dissolve the copper, you can't dump it down the sink or throw it away because it is "hazardous" and should be taken to hazardous waste disposal. I'm still in high school and can't really do that and/or my parents would think I'm doing something dangerous. Is there any other way to etch PCBs besides using chemicals, like a knife or something?

Question by 7654321   |  last reply

Should I post? (Well, not exactly)

So, this really isn't whether or not I should post an iBle, but rather how many of you are interested in it. I'm using the saltwater etch tutorials here and am going to etch my iPod shuffle (2nd generation). The etch will say "iMake" and if all goes right, I should begin to etch sometime today or tomorrow. So, I'll try to take quality pictures and all, and if anyone happens to have any tips for me, they would be appreciated! ;-) Thanks!

Topic by Bran   |  last reply

Sanding Laser Etchings and Saltwater Etching Through Anodization ?s

I own an iPod Shuffle, 2nd generation, silver. It is very plain, and I've recently been reading up on saltwater etching. I want to remove the standard Apple logo from the back and etch my own text (it will either be "iMake" or "iBles", I can't decide). I've come upon two roadblocks, so far, those being: can I sand laser etchings (the Apple Logo) off, and can I etch through the player's anodization, or would I need to sand that off? I don't really care if it doesn't turn out perfect, or looks like a total mess. It's not like I paid for the thing. Thanks for any help!

Topic by Bran   |  last reply

Why do oxygen escape quicker in freshwater that has salt added than in freshwater?

I where told to give my fish a saltbath (half a teespoon salt added to a cup-250ml freshwater and stirred till it desolves and then added your fish to the cup) as I noticed he has finrot. But my question to the petshop guy was when do I know to take the fish out of the saltwater again as it is a freshwater fish. His answer to me was, as soon as he comes to the surface gasping for air... He said as salt in freshwater lets oxygen escape quicker out of freshwater... But my question now is, but why?? Please help me to solve this....

Question by woepies   |  last reply

Etching PCB boards

I know that copper is a better conductor than tin or aluminum. But one of my friends a few days ago told me that instead of etching his layout on copper, he used the bottom of an altoids tin. he said all he did was sand the bottom until there was no paint of the altoids can and then he etched his layout. (Chemical bath, toner, etc.) So my question is, Does anyone know how to etch custom layouts (toner layouts) on tin or aluminum? **I figure this could save people some money and time on some projects. :)

Topic by batboy61490   |  last reply

PCB etching left over paper

Hey everyone! I'm in the process of etching my first PCB. I have a few questions. I'm using the toner transfer method, with hydrochloric acid and a little hydrogen peroxide as an etchant. Anyway, I transferred the toner to the board, but I believe the glossy paper I used may have been a little too thick. The toner transferred correctly, but i can manage to get all of the paper off. I've tried a tooth brush and a soft towel. My question is, if I just go forth and etch the board will the paper dissolve with the copper on the board and give me a clean result anyway? Will the copper covered by the paper not be removed? are there any cons to this? (such as not being able to reuse my etchant) Thank you all, your help is appreciated Ken

Topic by KennyW2   |  last reply

How to design a single sided board in diptrace the free version?

I need to have the answer!  I'm trying to etch but I dunno how to make a single sided board on diptrace! please!

Question by jwoo2023   |  last reply

What laser do I need for laser etching?

The questions says it all; I am planning to build a custom 2-axis computer controller etching machine out of a modified ink-jet printer. The motorisation and computation part it not a problem yet, however I have no clue where to start from about looking for a laser. I am looking foward engraving/etching wood, metal, plastic and some other soft materials. I do not plan to CUT these however. I do not know what kind of laser I am exactly looking for, nor it's power or anything else I should be aware of, including where to order it from. Even, will a DVD burner diode do the job? If you have any past experience with laser etching, or laser technology, please contribute as I would be very grateful. Thank you.

Question by matroska   |  last reply

Help with controller circuit for galvanic etching machine? How can I eliminate the halogen lamp from the circuit? Answered

I want to put together an electroetching rig (as detailed here), and I already have a battery charger, but I need to make the controller (diagram attached). My question is: Is there a better solution for the circuit than having an 12 volt halogen lamp wired in? That just seems really clunky to me, and my gut tells me there's a better solution that is not "go buy a laboratory power supply". I have nothing against old-school, but this looks positively prehistoric. Anybody?

Question by RavingMadStudios   |  last reply

PCB fab lab questions? (and nixie tubes?) Answered

Now that I have a new oscilloscope (rigol DS1054Z), and have learned a LOT about programming and electronics while down at NASA langley for a research program (semi-intern), I feel like I should start working on a real project (other than my quadcopter), and was thinking about making a nixie tube clock. I would like to make it from scratch of my own design as I feel one learned the most about electronics by not using other's designs. However, I do not have the resources or time to bother trying to etch my own PCB. I attempted that before and was not able to get usable results. What kind of costs am I looking at if I locate a relatively local company for the job? I hate calling people and companies, but I suppose that is still the most practical way to figure out what I need to do and place an order, I don't know. Economies of scale is a great thing, makes things in bulk production cheap! However, would the costs of ordering one or 2 PCBs be non-economical and/or non-practical? Should I consider many smaller projects and stuff to be created on a breakout board? I hate messy, sloppy protoboard, it is just nasty, though easy for non-high-density boards. however, I would love to hear the opinions of others for these things. When dealing with nixie tubes, are sockets for the 1N-14 avalible? A lot of the new old stocks seem to have very thin and long legs, almost as if they are meant for through hole soldering directly onto a PCB like capacitors and resistors. I would prefer a socketed tube to make replacing them quicker and easier. 

Question by -max-   |  last reply

Help With Eagle PCB Layout

Hello All. I'm trying to etch a board created in Eagle.  2 Questions: When I export the image, the "plastic part" of the pin headers on my board are showing up in the exported image. Is this image really "doable" using a toner transfer method due to the thin clearances and trace widths? Exports of the schematic and board images are attached. Thanks! Cam

Topic by evilknot   |  last reply

Electroplating for electronics

An idea has occurred to me about how PC boards are currently made. The normal process now is a destructive one, where unwanted copper is etched away. What about figuring a way to electroplate the traces onto a substrate? Various toys and model parts are made of plastic, and yet have been electroplated with a cheap form of chrome. Why not apply that to PC  boards? I'm thinking that a photographically negative mask could be used in a photo-sensitive process to apply the conductive surface to a heat resistant substrate, and then the copper traces could be electroplated on. Anyone have any thoughts on this, primarily at a hobbyist level? **note - cross posted in burning questions.

Topic by charlie_r   |  last reply

PCB Soldering Help Needed. Problem connecting pads. Answered

I have a pre-etched and drilled one-sided PCB where each hole has an isolated copper pad on the under side. My question is what is the best and/or easiest way to connect the pads to complete my circuit? The largest jump is every other (i.e. there is a lead in A1 that needs connected to a lead in C1, B1 is empty). There are also some side by side connections (A1-B1). I've messed around a little but can't figure out a good way to do it. There is going to be a lot of connections so the simpler the better.

Question by bwrussell   |  last reply

Can I use an USB pendrive as MMC card for a digital camera? Answered

A pile of flash drives I gathered inspired me to ask this question. I know you can connect an MMC card to USB socket using a simple adapter. But is it possible to make an "inverted" adapter, that would allow me to use a flash drive as MMC card for my camera? I guess it wouldn't be as simple as etching a MMC-shaped PCB and wiring it to an USB socket, and almost certainly it would require some advanced electronics... The next issue I worry about is writing speed of a pendrive. Would it be sufficient for a camcorder? I was unable to find any ready solution of this problem and I find it strange that nobody has tried it before...

Question by Kapcaniew   |  last reply

Diode laser cutting capabilities??

Hey guys, Im starting to build a 2 axis CNC for a laser. I was going to try the DVD burner laser and just cut through some paper for now but im wondering what the capabilities of the higher wattage lasers are. I know there are several 1-2+ watt lasers on ebay, what could they mange to cut through? Could I cleanly cut cardboard? What about vinyl for making stuff like decals and stickers? Im wondering if spending the extra money on a better laser would be beneficial or not so if anyone has some good comparisons or ideas let me know. Im on a tight budget for this build so a co2 laser is WAY out of the question. This is my first CNC build so its mainly to learn but the more capabilities of the CNC the better.

Topic by jdavis-9   |  last reply

Copperplating with non-pure-copper?

Hi! I plan on some experiments with a modified method i saw here for PCB-plating with copper to make the holes conductive. Now the question: What if my metal is not 100% pure but has some impurities in it? Does it still only "transfer" the copper and leaves the impurities as slag behind? I think it should be this way, since a similar approach gets used in refining metals to a very high purity; but i am unsure... Lets say i do: Follow the basic recipe (with smaller ammounts!) @ and use copper sulfide. I think the trick now is that only copper-ions get disolved in the copper sulfide and nothing else. Those ions become plated to the other pole and thus i get purest copper plated to it?

Topic by Orngrimm   |  last reply

9kV 50mA tesla coil NST question. Why does the circuit breaker in my home trip when i plug in my NST?

Please someone help, this is my first tesla coil project, my setup: 230VAC 50Hz input ricci 9000v 50ma NST with a built in GFI (ground fault interrupter) but i bypassed the gfi succesfully .see pics safety gap  7,5 cm diameter pvc secondary 1000 turns #24 magnetwire (0,5mm) secondary 10 turns 8mm copper pipe primary (tapped at 7 turns) saltwater capacitor 16 green beer bottles in a bucket with a capacitance of 0,0122 uF or 12,2 nF (thegeekgroup bucket cap) static spark gap 28mm diameter stainless steel spheres as electrodes with oven fan (temporary, i am building a hyperbaric gap) 10cmx27,5cm aluminum toroid topload with a brass screw as breakout point RF ground aluminum rod 1,2 meter  When i tested the coil for the first time the spark gap was set on 6mm and i got 20cm or 8inch streamers without breakout point but the gfi on my nst tripped after a few seconds. i didn't know there was a built in gfi on my nst so i fooled around with my spark gap and safety gap and the tapping point on the primary hoping to get better performance. after a few runs the gfi started to trip very fast and i could only run the coil with the spark gap set on max 2mm, any bigger then that would trip the gfi on the nst. so i found out that it had a gfi and i bypassed it with thick wire. Then when i ran the nst i got the exact same thing but with my circuit breaker in my home. i have made a video on youtube that shows the problem here is the link: (please help) please anyone help me! Any help or suggestion is very welkom!

Question by colinbarnes   |  last reply

What is the safest (and most reliable) way to power a dozen LED's burried in a floor?

I know sculpting and carving, not circiuts! I've added some custom glass etchings to the tile floor in a bathroom that are lit with LED's embedded under the Travertine and Grout. There are about a dozen 3v White LED's spread throughout the floor and all wired in parrallel. They are hard to change. Once they burn out, they most likely won't be dug up and chaged, so I want them to last as long as possible. In my previous installation, I simply used a 3v battery pack inside the closet with a wall switch in the entry to control the circuit. In my current floor, I've also used a battery pack to test them and am now ready to build a permanent solution. This time (thinking ahead) I have built a switched outlet in a wall cavity that will provide power to my floor lighting. The question is this: What is the best way to power them making use of the switched outlet? My original idea was to simply buy a 3v wall wart power supply typically rated at between 750 and 1000ma at the switched outlet. The reason I'm asking you fine folks about this is that Im concerned about providing too much amperage to the lights and burning them out (if that's possible). Once they're gone, theyre gone. It is not very practical to dig them out. Is this a good idea? There is nothing else in the circuit but the 3v LEDs and the power supply (no resistors, etc). My backup idea is to use a 120v relay and a battery pack at the switched outlet. This seems the safer solution (less chance of burning out the LED's), but would require changing the batteries once in a while (probably every couple years with typical usage.

Topic by briankangaroo   |  last reply

convert any CRT TV or monitor into a vector (XY) monitor?

NOTE: I since found a couple links that might shed some light on the question... From HackIt: New uses for old CRT monitors It would be very hard to do, but it is possible a CRT could be converted to a vector monitor. Perfect for playing Asteroids, perhaps under MAME. You would have to replace all the control circuits, probably with an FPGA and three ADCs (x/y/intensity). Posted at 8:58 am on Feb 25th, 2008 by MoJo Television and PC monitor experiments old cga/vga monitor to oscilloscope ? The inquiry: Maybe I am over-simplifying but I was reading one of those examples of hacking into a CRT's horizontal & vertical yoke controls to sync to music: and had the idea that it should be possible to create a DIY XY monitor (vector display like on an oscilloscope, Vectrex, Asteroids, etc.) for an Arduino or other uC, MAME or Vectrex emulator, from any TV or CRT, once you have hacked into the electron gun's yokes. My understanding being: Raster display: the horizontal yoke (an electromagnet) sweeps the electron gun from left to right turning on the beam wherever there's a "pixel" at that line (which lights up the phosphor at that point making it visible), then it starts over at the next line (vertical yoke moves down) and draws the next line, and so on, Vector display: instead of rendering a moving image frame-by-frame using top to bottom/left to right scanning, shapes are drawn directly to the screen by positioning the horizontal & vertical yokes at the starting point, the beam turns on, and the yokes repoint to the end point, thus "drawing" the line inbetween the 2 points (I would assume this is for straight lines, not sure if circles or arcs are possible?) then the beam turns off, and the yokes get re-positioned to the next line's starting point. I'm not sure what turns the beam on & off or what kind of timing might be involved, obviously that needs to be controlled somehow. Or for color, where instead of a single white (or green, amber, etc) phosphor exists per pixel, there are multiple (red, green, blue) per pixel, and the beam hits each one at varying strengths (or for a varying length of time?) to 'mix" the primaries to the desired color? I'm not sure how that gets handled in a color vector monitor, but I would assume it's something similar to raster? So if we can hack into a CRT's X/Y yokes and move them around with an audio signal, can we control the yokes more deliberately from a microcontroller to plot specific shapes or text, hence a vector display? For those audio/TV hacks, what is the audio signal doing to the yokes that causes them to move? Whatever it is - voltage, resistance, etc - this is what our device would have to control. Possible proof of concept version: make a device to control the yokes' position etch-a-sketch style with a couple of potentiometers, and turn on the beam with a switch or button. If you see a dot of light moving across the screen then it works. I am thinking the controller might need to be "calibrated" for the individual CRT? (Maybe build some kind of calibration mode into the device.) You might dedicate a microcontroller to driving the display - it could receive text or vector shape coordinates via serial, store the shapes to draw in its own memory, and persist or refresh the image independently, freeing up processing power for whatever device it's displaying for. Another idea would be maybe add some kind of way to read light pen's coordinates, thus making the CRT an input device that can be read from the microcontroller or PC (the Vectrex had a light pen right?)  [This would be a cool mod for the Arduino composite TVout as well.] So is this idea possible without a ridiculous amount of work & parts?  I may be dead wrong about how this stuff works (I'm sure that if this was possible, someone would have done it by now?) but figured it can't hurt** to put the idea out there. I have visions of 4-player vector Arduino pong, Asteroids, Tempest, PDP-1 Spacewar!, vector NES Duck Hunt, a vector etch-a-sketch or lightpen drawing or animation program, or vector Atari Video Music. Possibly an open source color vector games system. Or just a vector display system for any Arduino or microcontroller project, made from any TV. **WARNING: maybe it CAN hurt... Evidently hacking into any CRT can be deadly, you have to discharge the CRT and capacitors properly or you can get killed. So please be careful. This definitely is NOT for kids to try at home.

Question by apple-o   |  last reply

I want to Make a HUGE "3D printed" sculpture of a PACHAMAMA DRAGON with a drop fountain in it's eyes and a sensor smoke machine and more.(HOW CAN I DO IT?)

I have close to 0 pratical skill in arduino and raspberry,Questions: What`s the easiest way to make a sensor so when people are close to the head it starts crying in drops (maybe gold like liquid or glow in the dark liquid or red liquid)What`s the easiest way to make a sensor connected to a smoke machine? Where can I buy a drop water fountain?MORE IMPORTANT:What are the name of the professionals who can help me tech the dragon? does anyone knows cool things I could add to the dragon to animate it somehow?Maybe an entrance to put coins and money and some lights would light the whole dragon from inside, maybe a foam machine on the mouth or a flametrower.Is there any light that with a special bulb or opaque acrylic that stays smooth like a car`s neon and not localized when seeing it directly? how could i light the dragon in an epic way , having in account that the dragon has a rooted intricate body and we can put lights inside? maybe i can put the lights. Who is the professional who can put wholes for the lighting system and it-s wiring on the 3d model before we print it?______________________________________________________________________________________________I Will reproduce this model of this dragon ( and MIRA ARTS RESHAPED SO IT LOOKS LIKE IT'S BODY IT'S MADE WITH THE ROOTS OF AMAZON,like this one( , rigged again in an epic way to fit inside a particular room along the walls, with a 2m wide head and an asian dragon body so it can spiral and swirl and curve around the room, like the walls are water, maybe even go behond walls outside and trough will have simple sensors so when you're close to the head it activates smoke machines there, maybe an "Ha" soundwith the help of architects, we will assemble the creature on site.I will reproduce it with around 500$ of cardboard sheets laser etched in topographical layers (PRICE) with the help of 123dmake (check it out), maybe then plastered and sanded this tutorial until step 4. ( this system we can 3D print the dragon and anything imaginable at a Giant Epic scale!I'm going to kickstart this project ______________________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________ Fluff to save the World: I will name the Artpiece with a long name "Niu Pachamama Dragon :Bolsonaro, me muda o nome da Amazonia para Pachamama para ter um lugar mais visível no Google para salvarmos a Pachamama, vai!" or in english: "Mr.Bolsonaro (Brazil's President), can you change the name of Amazon Forest to just Pachamama so it can have better ,non confusing google searches and we can finally save it from ilegal deforestation?"Amazon has been unconsciously hidden UNDER Amazon Company IN WEB SEARCH ENGINES for too long,it doesn't have any clicks on search engines, it needs a legit different name for it's core to survive on aND PUMP the PLANET TROUGH THE internet.This way the company and the forest can coexist in different non intersecting google "cupboards" without any confusion for kids and adults alike.If the president changes the name OF aMAZON TO PACHAMAMA TROUGH THIS DRAGON SPLASH, we can bring tons of attention to Pachamama, the New Amazon AND POTENTIALY SAVE THE WORLD!.eCK!For 2020 WE CAN EVEN BE CELEBRATING 3SMAS INSTEAD OF CHRISTAMAS, WHERE INSTEAD OF TORNING DOWN A PINE TREE EACH FAMILY PLANTS 10 PLANTS!MERRY 3SMAS EVERYBODY, TREES MUST SURVIVE!THEI'RE ALIVE!The dragon has become a global symbol for epicness, Myth, entertainment fantasy monster,But the Virgin Amazonian Augmented Dragon or new Pachamaman Dragon CAN BECOME The transcendental symbol of good hope FOR PACHAMAMA,meaning, a guide to Brazilian politicians to "Get a legit Google cupboard for amazon RIGHT NOW!",protector of treasure with the TREASURE representing the Forests, specially the amazon, and hope that we can still save and act for all the forests of the world!a nEW PACHAMAMAit represents the fertility of the amazon, also IT'S deforestation,it's brutality, and future connection with mankind!iMAGINE THAT! and the dragon has an augmented DBZ scouter on the eye that represents the Good side of transcendental connection between human and machine(equals dragon, a symbol of leadership)( It represents the new transcendental connection with technology, you can have a google glass augmented "game" where you become an instant druid in the rainforest, with the camera reckognizing everyplant and medicine that you wish, and dosages for it, and where to get the next one for the recipes AND HOW TO PREPARE THEM.