I'm trying to 3D print reliable underwater camera enclosures. Here's where I'm documenting my progress: https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Underwater-Camera/ What do you guys think? (first post ever :D )
Topic by MoonLanding
Hi everyone, I see outex.com and i'd like to make it by myself, I think it's not so difficult but I need some expertise I don't have that you can give it to me...^_^ i'd like to start from this bag, https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTZ2lk6Fr2qj8sAc_D6bZkRBepK17dzmUvUBjOJBTeNbH8P8Fp1RA cut it and mold some pieces to fit the Camera size and shape, do you know how to make waterproof seams on this material? hot,glue or what to make it impermeable? hope you can help me and make my next holydays great with underwater shoots!
Topic by cavalars
I have heard that DC motors can run underwater and am trying to build a project with them running underwater. I recently tried running a brush less DC cooling fan underwater and it broke. Meanwhile I tried another mini DC motor, the kind that cost $.99 each and it worked fine. Does anyone have any ideas why one worked and the other did not? Does it have to do with being brushed or not? Lastly would something like http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1117 theoretically run underwater? Thanks.
Question by Hammock Boy | last reply
Hi does anyone know if it possible to create a stabilisation platform to make a video camera point directly down all the time underwater. the ultimate goal is to attach one to the front of a Diver Propulsion Vehicle to map small sections of the sea floor. at the moment we planning to just have a guy being towed on a rope behind the main diver keeping the camera down Thanks for any advise Tom
Topic by tawcnysc | last reply
I'm building a small device that needs to go to a depth of only a few feet in swimming pool water (I'd say three feet at the most) working on an arduino. I wanted to make it radio controlled and was planning on using a standard 49Mhz RC car circuit connected to the arduino. I don't want to keep the antenna above the water line and was wondering if a 49 MHz would work underwater. Any help would be appreciated. :) I know higher frequencies like those in Bluetooth don't work underwater.
Question by sidgupta | last reply
I'm building a small device that needs to go to a depth of only a few feet in swimming pool water (I'd say three feet at the most) working on an arduino. I wanted to make it radio controlled and was planning on using a standard 49Mhz RC car circuit connected to the arduino. I don't want to keep the antenna above the water line and was wondering if a 49 MHz would work underwater. I know higher frequencies like those in Bluetooth don't work underwater.Preview Topic
Topic by sidgupta | last reply
Question by scubachase2000 | last reply
I believe that nature in itself has the solution for all our problems . I believe that a combination of mechanical engineering and marine biology (marine comparative bio-mechanics) can provide a new scope of development . I have always been fascinated and intrigued by marine animals which have survived billions of years and great changes of the Earth . ( eg . nautilus) [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nautilus ] . Its my understanding that this cephalopod has the most effective and energy conversant method of locomotion. It uses water jet propulsion for motion and uses the air cavities inside its shell for buoyancy . These mechanisms of locomotion can be studied and modified for creation of low-speed , high-efficiency underwater locomotives . The Nautilus v.1 is a fusion of both biomechanics and state of the art electronics. It uses the habitual and operational features of the living fossil nautilus. The living nautilus is the sole inspiration reason for this underwater utility simply because of its magnificence. It has survived for millions of years in the open oceans which is a remarkable feat in itself but surprisingly it makes a daily trip of 150-200m from the ocean bottom to the surface nocturnally for feeding. Even though Nautilus v.1 uses many of the systems used by underwater rovs , it stands a class apart by achieving partial autonomy . The Nautilus v.1 is far superior from its rivals such as openrov, sea perch, etc. because of its low power consumption and longevity. It attains this by excluding power consuming components like propellers. Its operation is completely on the basis of neutral buoyancy attained by productions of gas bubbles by simple water electrolysis. The gas bubbles are collected in different gas chambers for operation at different water levels. The salinity of sea water facilitates water electrolysis and more gas can be produced with less currents. Graphite electrodes are used to prevent electrode corrosion. The electronics part is still under discussions for an optimum control unit. This will act as the base for addition of sensors and locomotive systems. Currently the main two platforms under work are the beaglebone black and the android versions. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. Beaglebone would be optimum for component level additions, such as sensors can be added on, whereas in the case of an android system such as a smartphone, most of the sensors are inbuilt and their raw data can be attained. For progress till now, please visit http://opennautilus.wordpress.com/
Topic by cecilj
I am building an ROV and I need to know whether this control board will work. I planed on Running 1 Cat5 and 1 set of speaker wires to control and run systems on-board. When I flip a switch on the control panel, a 3v signal is sent down the Cat5 wire to the base of a transistor, which opens the flow of power between the Emitter and collector. My main question is, does a transistor work as a switch? Example. A signal enters the Base and opens the other two connections. Is this right? Oh, and the other two pictures are what i plan for it to look like. I am building it using the motors from one project (posted recently) , the frame another, and my own control. I will post an instructable as soon as it is done.
Topic by ry25920 | last reply
I am participating ( with other students ) in a highschool level underwater rov competition, i would LIKE to use arduino to control the robot. BUT ive never done something like this before what id like to know is besides the Arduino board ( not sure if Uno would work or if Mega would be necessary ) what kind of compnents would be necassary Like would the arduino be controlling the motors directly or would it control something to turn on/off the motors? as the motors run on higher voltages then the arduino does and what would the control side of it be like? i would LIKE to have a basic joystick (2 axis, nothing fancy) and a few buttons but would that require a specific shield or something more complex?
Question by shabaki | last reply
I am working on an underwater ROV for a competition and have been considering using Arduino to control it. However. I have not actually ever used Arduino and therefore have no knowledge of the subject. So my question is this, what would the basic components be for controlling the ROV be? It would have to be able to control several (4-ish) medium sized motors as well as 2-3 small motors and i would LIKE to have either a joystick and a few buttons on the controlling side. I can imagine ALL the power would be unable to be run through the Arduino system so would it be that there would be some kind of second component for say each motor to control power flow? Also the motors are "double throw switch" motors so there would not need to be any kind or" throttle "
Question by shabaki
I'm thinking about putting together a homemade submarine of sorts. the cabin will be a blue plastic barrel, and contact to the surface would be nice. How deep should I be able to go before I lose service? Please no comments on how dangerous this could end up being. I'm well aware :)
Question by jrh065 | last reply
Hi, I want to make an underwater fishing light with LED chips and Li-ion batteries (18650) to make it rechargeable and portable . Like this one http://youtu.be/jccC5gtD__g I do not know what should I use , which led chip and which driver ? What I need to make same light in this video? sorry, my English is bad but i'm sure you will understand me ;)
Question by Cr77777 | last reply
Ever seen those glass pebbles that are somewhat opaque? I would like to place these at the bottom of a 15 gallon fish tank and have it lit up from underneath, probably through the use of LEDs. I am looking for any ideas of creating such a thing that would be safe to place under water, that won't fry the goldfish. Food for thought, could you also use Black light LEDs or would that possibly kill the good bacteria in the tank. There could be a possibility to place it under the fish tank (outside the water), though I would have to remove a structural panel. Would creating an LED mat for underneath the fishtank be easier? Specifications: -Powered from a wall socket -light up and through 1.5" - 2" of the glass pebbles for 1' x 2' aquarium bottom.
Question by jc.021286 | last reply
I am building a pressurized environment and I need to house electronics
Question by littlechef37 | last reply
Basically what I intend building is a device,a mic placed in a reg/DV and linked by cord arms length to a sender/speaker.This would be placed against your buddies head and he could hear you speak. Obviously it would have to be submersable to about 15 meters. Any advice on gathering bits and parts and plans,would be much appreciated
Question by Steeler | last reply
This is just an idle thought, but I was reading a couple of ROV builds, and the one thing they all have in common is a tether - it's a fact of the world that very little in the way of radio signal can penetrate water. So... Could you send control signals to an ROV via sound or ultrasound? Could beeps and clicks carry enough data, far enough, and clearly enough, to control an ROV? Even more fun, how much data could come back? Sensor readings? Images? Just throwing it out there for you to toy with, but it would be fun to have genuinely-remote control for this class of robot.
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
Hi there, I'm new here. I've recently found an entry-level 3D online modelling software, Tinkercad and have been Tinkering ever since. I'm into scuba diving and I've long wanted to design a GoPro mount for the cylinder to give a 3rd person view of me while I'm swimming about enjoying life underwater. (Think a less-sexy Lara Croft!) I wanted to run it past you guys to see what you think. I've attached 2 screenshots, because as you can see, the mount I've designed is collapsible, to save space in my GoPro bag. I've done the maths (Pythag) so each side is perfectly lengthed to create a right-angled triangle, with the hypotaneuse (long edge) is facing down my body, towards my feet, so that the camera view won't be obstructed. I've used a Pythag triple, so the arms measure 3", 4", 5". This was done for 2 reasons: a) It was easier to desine using these measurements and b) I don't want it sticking too far up from my cylinder so that it doesn't catch on wildlife/coral/divers. As this is my first GoPro mount that I've designed, I've had to go on deimensions I've found online for the actual hinges. I've settled on approx 3mm for each prong as well as the gap in between. I have actually shaved off .25mm from the middle prong of the 3-pronged-hinge, and left the 2-pronged-hinge at 3mm for the gap and prongs. I'm going to get the pieces 3D-printed by a local service I've found on 3DHubs.com, either in ABS plastic or in resin, though I'll probably go for ABS as it seems to be a bit more hard-wearing, even if it's not so detailed. In terms of mounting it to the tank, I will use 2 headstraps, with the over-the-top strap removed from each one and glue the plastic bits of each of them together, at the correct length of course. I would join them using a seperate piece of plastic and either a hot glue gun, superglue or even some sort of epoxy, whatever lasts longest in prolonged exposure to seawater. I would probably place it nearer the top of the tank, near to where the strap of the BCD jacket goes round it. Does anybody have any advice for me in terms of the design from a functional point of view as well as from whether they think it would actually get a good shot on the camera please? I look forward to your feedback, good or bad!
Topic by JackIsted | last reply
Self explanitory I thought
Question by Ginger Magnus | last reply
I am making an underwater ROV, like a remote controlled submarine, and I am looking for a way to control it. All of the commands are set up to run off of serial commands going to the on board arduino. This is what I would like to know: Is there an easy way to send custom serial data over a computers USB port, controlled by some sort of virtual controller
Question by ConnorFD | last reply
I got this camera circuit from an old underwater camera.It also had a motor.
Question by ilevitskiy | last reply
1) I plan to do a ROV so i gathered some information, But i need more help how to get the ROV from deep water to surface? 2) I have to take pictures from underwater and i have to do some image processing through Matlab so suggest me some best underwater cameras? 3) Please explain me about UROV thrusters?
Question by athuv | last reply
I am hoping to build an underwater robot and am not sure about the circuit. It would include a motor and a battery. Is there any way to waterproof a circuit so I could be able to modify it? (Ex. change the battery.) Thanks!
Question by DELETED_afw11 | last reply
Our prom is an undersea/underwater theme. I would like to make a water effect light to shine on the dance floor and sunken ship to enhance the ambience. Am looking for something inexpensive. Overall color is blue so multi-colors are not necessary.
Greetings collective Instructables genius, Here's the deal, I have a kitchen, I also have several strips of individually addressable LED's powered by the same supply. I like the led's, I really the fade between teal and blue as it gives the impression that you're underwater. At any rate, having anything other than a decora sized switch is out of the question. I don't need another remote, or some box with switches on it to control the LEDs. I'd really like a switch that can be mounted in a single gang electrical box, that can be covered by a decora faceplate. I have a media cabinet where the power supply for the LED's is housed, and the switch can run to the supply in the cabinet. I need at least 4 programs (like the underwater effect), though 8 would be ideal. Any thoughts on how to approach this? I'd spend upwards of $80 for a finished product. Any input is appreciated. Thank you Eric
Topic by legionmanchild | last reply
I have an 8th grade science class (I'm the teacher) that I would like to have construct underwater vehicles. The kids will be using 9v batteries, switches and assorted other materials. Does anyone know of any good books/articles that explain the basics of wiring, electricity, motors, switches, etc. that I can have the students read to get a good base of knowledge in the basics of electronics? Thanks!!!
Topic by mashmtz | last reply
I would love to try to build a webcam that I can submerge in my pond to transmit video of koi swimming in my pond. My idea is to place a marker outside of my garden pond that someone can scan using Aurasma (augmented reality program for smartphones) and then show a live feed of an underwater camera of the fish swimming in the pond. I thought about simply using a very cheap small usb camera, seal it in a clear waterproof case and run the wire outside the pond. The problem is, I don't want to leave a computer (even a old one) outside running 24-7 to plug into and power source is a bit of an issue even though one outlet may be available. I thought of using a wireless or rechargeable webcam, but i don't want to have to pull it out of the pond constantly to recharge it and i don't think i can transmit far enough for my main computer's wifi to grab the video if it is underwater. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? i am trying to do this super-cheap... so want to avoid any costly options...preferably less than $50.
Question by DarkRubyMoon | last reply
I am building a project that has dimensions of roughly 2 inches by 2 inches by 1 inch. There are plenty of LEDs, exposed wires, etc. that I want to cover up. Does anyone know of a material that I could wrap this in, perhaps a sort of heat shrink for it all? It does not need to be protect it from being submerged underwater or form a protective barrier for being dropped. Hopefully something a little more professional looking than bubble wrap. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Question by Hammock Boy | last reply
Right-o, hello everyone. I have come a bit unstuck in the planning phase of a lamp project and hope that one of you clever sparks on here can give me a bit of advice. I came across some quite large glass jars and though “wouldn’t it look good if I filled these full of water and put a light bulb inside”. I searched for suitable underwater lights but the only ones that appear to be widespread are LED. That’s fine I thought: long life and eco-friendly! Now – it appears as if LED lights come in two voltage flavours. The first seems to be able to run direct from mains supply as they appear to have in built transformers. The second type comes in 12v and requires a separate transformer. All the underwater lights I found fell into the latter category. Further research confirmed that the transformer has to be of a particular type - capable of delivering a constant un-fluctuating voltage supply, otherwise the LED bulb will burn out very quickly. Now there are loads of transformers on sale for converting mains to 12v – however these transformers all appear to have been manufactured for placement behind walls or in roof spaces. There also seems to be some suggestion that you have to purchase the “right type” of transformer to “match” the LED driver used in a given light. I am now a little confused and I am uncertain whether I should proceed as the project I have in mind is to create a table lamp with a cable that plugs into the wall and that can be switched on and off with a switch installed on the cable. All the LED transforms I have found appear to be for installation within roof spaces – and I am not certain they could be used with the particular bulb I have sourced anyway: Here is a link to the bulb I would like to use: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aircraft-Aluminum-Waterproof-underwater-light/dp/B00E8B2F7S/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid;=1377529793&sr;=8-31&keywords;=underwater+bulb (my apologies If I am not supposed to post links to amazon – I couldn’t find a manufacturer’s website for this item) My questions are: (1) Will I have to buy a specific transformer to match the chipset of this LED lamp or will any transformer designed for use with LEDs be suitable (assuming that they convert 230v to 12v). (2) The lamp is rated at 10 watts. Do I have to buy a transformer also rated at 10 watts or can I purchase one which is rated at say 30 watts. What I’m trying to ascertain is: Do I have to match the wattage exactly or can I just use a transformer rated at 10 watts or above? (3) Can you get LED transformers that are designed for use in the home (i.e. not one that is intended to be installed in the roof space or behind a wall) e.g. is there such a thing as an LED transformer which you can plug directly into a mains socket? (4) Is there anything else I have failed to consider that I should take into account. Many thanks for any assistance.
Topic by rcgraham | last reply
Here's the setup: one LED with its leads tied by conductive threads to magnets which stick to a watch battery, in contact with skin for multiple hours. I had somebody say that this somehow was zapping them (enough to leave a rash). Is this possible? I've handled lit LEDs with watch batteries a lot (even underwater) and never felt a thing! No spark, no zap, no shock, nothing. So have I just been lucky? Can this setup actually zap you enough to feel it, or even irritate your skin? Or was the zapping perhaps an allergic reaction to the nickel magnets which was mistaken for being sparked?
Topic by aliasjanedoe | last reply
Ok, I recently bought an iPod touch 4g and really love it. Now my brother really wants one but doesn't have enough money to get one. Sooooo, yesterday he found one laying, screen smashed, 2 inches underwater in a stream. He begged me to charge it so finally I let him use my old charger. We plugged it in and I almost screamed when it actually started charging. Naturally my brother freaked out but when we tried to unlock it, it turned out the screen was too shattered to completely slide the unlock slider. My brother has $14:00. So now I wanna know if I can fix the screen enough to actually use the iPod. Plz help? Sorry I can't include a pic of the iPod right now.
Topic by duneflipper crafts | last reply
I'm struggling understanding what im really needing and could use some guidance... I'm tring to build a underwater fishing light that has 36 3watt green leds. I'm going to only be powering them when the engine is off and the batteries aren't being charges... it will run off a standard 12volt marine battery... the led specs are ' green (510-530nm):DC Forward Voltage:3.4V~3.8V Forward Current: 700mA'. what would be the best way to power these leds... im assuming that I need to power in series groups of 3. but with such a wide voltage of 3.4 to 3.8... do I just shoot for the middle? do I use 12v in my calculation or do u use like a 12.5 or 13 like it sometimes checks.... Can I get by powering it with just resistors or do I need a led driver? I have entered my data in some of the calculaters online and it says I need a 2.2 resister but gives warnings... and doesn't say what watt resistor... does it matter... first project ... confussed to say the least thanks
Topic by laltec | last reply
Hi All, I have a Underwater camera (which is now going to become the backup) However the battery is only 710 mAh. This works out to 20 mins of video or about 2 dives of photos. Original battery : http://www.adorama.com/SSNP40.html Battery Lithium-ion Charge Time 1.5 to 2 hours Output Voltage 3.7v Capacity 710 mAh But as the battery is so small and useless, i want to open the camera and soldier 3 wires to the battery connectors and add a 3 pin connector. As course there is space within the house to place a new battery, IF the right size and shape can be found. However, i dont understand batteries... Is it safe to add a bigger capacity batter as long as the output stays the same(volts... as i cant find the Amp output) I found this battery, looks like it might fit in the house http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/pa-l2/battery-li-ion-1s1p-3-7v-1-95ah/dp/1900165 But i am just not sure if this will work??? Any ideas, tip or advise welcome. Thanks
Topic by rwishart
I have a great old Corona ultrasonic humidifier that is 21 or 22 years old. The humidifier works like a dream, but the old rubber gasket around the vibrating plate is going to fail soon. I am thinking that Sugru would be a fix to model around and on top of the existing gasket. Anyone think it would have trouble under water? It's one of the best old humidifiers but has gone out of production. Have kept this sucker clean and in good order. The gasket has eroded considerably, and if it goes it will be a dead machine. I have repaired the broken water tank twice. I used a piece of Sugru to hold an old toilet flapper in place inside the reservoir tank and it hasn't moved in months. Anyone work with Sugru for things underwater? It is my only hope to keep this great old machine working. Sooner or later, it will go, but it is a grand old remnant of the days when we built things to last. My old metal blade fans are still going even after a switch had to be replaced. Good maintenance will keep things running long after they are supposed to fail from use. Appreciate anyone and everyone's help. Thanks! Tess Elliott
Question by tesseliot | last reply
With all the terrorism stuff going on, I've always wandered what would be next.Ever since 9/11, I always asked myself were they would strike next, because they certainly did not intend to stop there.My guesses have been that they would probably strike at either:1) Elections - Either at the thing were they welcome the new president (sorry don't know much bout U.S. polimatics)2) Beijing Olympics - Its an important event3) Internet:I came to realize that one of the worst things that they could do was attack the internet. I figured that one of these methods could be used:Multiple malware methods. They could attack individual computers with wormsSomehow attacking diffrent countries methods of connection, being either telephone companies or whatever other methods they use (like those China underwater tube things)* But my best guess would be that they would strike important service providing companies. They would destroy the companies methods (satellites, cable mainframe stuff etc...)I would like this forum to have the porpose of disscussing terrorism issues and future issues like oil and so on. But mainly, what would happen if somehow, they attacked the internet?Sure hope none of them read this, cuz if they didn't have this idea, now they would....P.S. sorry, Im nt good with techie, so some of my points may not me accurate or clear. Please correct me if needed
Topic by Keith-Kid | last reply
My time as an Artist in Residence at Instructables went something like this: I arrived in San Francisco and arrived at the Instructables office. I was (to be honest, though now I'm so embarrassed by this assumption) expecting cubicles. Instead, there was energy, vibrancy, and TONS OF COOL PROJECTS!!I There were electronics scattered about (which is, like, enough to lure me in for life :). I met Noah and a few others. After discussing some contract stuff, he told me to come by for some pizza and ice cream in the afternoon. Sounds pretty cool... So, I went to Tech shop, I was blown away by the amound ot 3d printers, laser cutters and other amazing fabrication tools all under one roof, all waiting for me to use :) Then ... free pizza and ice cream, and a bunch of new people... sounds fun. I arrived at 4:30 and it wasn't quite a party, just yet. it was a talk. And an extremely interesting one, with a big portion of the Autodesk community present. So I really started to get a sense of who was in the community, and where does Instructables fit in. Then, I got to see .. DRY ICE ICE CREAM!!! So cool. Actually enough to entice me to order dry ice for a near future party! Anyway, I somewhat rapidly began to feel right at home. I ordered some parts for some projects and I began working straightaway. I started working on small electronics projects and other experiments related to water and boat robots. The next day (Thursday) I got a call at 10 PM in the evening… It was Noah. I was working at Tech shop at the time (I tried to work at Instructables office in the morning then head to T.S. in the afternoon to do some bigger scale construction work in the woodshop. Well, the Redbull challenge had been announced ("games") and they had begun brainstorming how to make… yes, remote control electric wheelchairs, that were controlled by a user who had a blindfold on, and would be listening through a wireless radio to commands from the person in the wheelchair with no control over themselves. Anyway, I headed straight over to Instructables, and the 72 hours began… The next morning, I head over with Randy to pick up our will-call items from Jameco, including arduinos, wireless arduino shields, xbees etc etc. Then we headed to Noah's shop in Emeryville… and the hacking began. An unfortunate thing was that I had to go to teach Arduino at Tech Shop Sunday evening, which is when the actual fun of riding the wheelchair occurred. Anyway, it was a super cool weekend of collaboration and intense work. Oh, and by the way, see here how to make your own: PSYCHO SCOOTER scramble, here. The rest of the summer continued on, the biggest accomplishment for me was getting Sneel_003 built and tested in the water. A really cool next step would be to get some 123d catch of underwater objects, trying it out at the aquarium, then do some 3d printing of cool underwater stuff. I did various other projects involving wireless communication, using Arduino for various electronics projects, programming joysticks and remote controllers, etc. A really neat thing is that every day at 2 pm there is "show and tell" which is just a quick "go around the table and say briefly what you've done in the past day". So I really got to get a feel for the way that things were working, who was operating on what, what was happening in the office and out of the office. So I felt immediately a part of the family, in a sense. Instructables is a super cool place: the facilities were amazing, the people were vibrant and knowledgable and motivated and fun, and the experience was super. The facilities I used most were: laser cutter, vacuum forming machine, woodshop, tons of electronics, 3d printer… Everyone I met from Instructables and AutuDesk as a whole was super helpful and great to talk to. It is really a great community. Before I left, I gave a presentation of my work during my time at Instructables. Here are the slides:
Topic by gabriellalevine | last reply
Hi everyone, hope someone can help? I just started playing around with some LED lights, trying to make a really bright Flounder light that can last at least 6-8 hours on the supplied battery. I was told if I used a "step-down", I wouldn't need resistors, (since the step-down does this in an essence), which I haven't, But the step-down keeps burning up? Here's the set-up I've been playing with... - 18vdc (power drill) battery. (unknown amps). - Step-down driver.... input 8vdc - 36vdc, output 1.5vdc - 36vdc - 3w LED Cree : ~ Reverse Voltage: 5.0 V ~ DC Forward Voltage: Typical: 3.8V Max: 4.2 VD ~ DC Forward Current: 700mA ~ Luminous Intensity: 170-190lm I use a volt meter to tune the Driver to a constant 4vdc to drive the LED. And the driver burns up and then the bulb after about 5 minutes. I was told I needed to add Ceramic Resistors, between the driver and battery, and between the driver and LED. (But what size?) I was also told I don't need extra resistors because of the driver? Which is Right? Or should I just add resistors between the battery and LED and do away with the Driver completely? Also, what is meant by "Reverse Voltage"? I have a 6vdc battery with a 4.5 amp capacity. But I want to use the 18vdc battery longer use, time wise. This is why I have the Driver, when 1 battery deletes, hook up the other one. I'd like to put 3 - 3w (180L) LED bulbs together, and run them off the 6vdc and/or the 18vdc battery so the LED's will last for at least 6-8 hours on 1 charge. I want to use either the 6vdc and/or the 18vdc battery because they are lightweight. I could go with 1w LED's so long as I can get the brightness needed to light up a distance of about 12' underwater to see a Flounder, and get 6-8 hours usage. Any help would be appreciated.
Question by Atomizer | last reply