How can you make a missile for the nerf rocket launcher?
Topic by T-man | last reply
Question by owendrake | last reply
High speed bullet photography is cool - the precision of catching the bullet flying through a carefully-placed target. But how about hitting a moving target? How about hitting a single drop of water? Dutch photographer Alexander Augusteijn can do it, apparently using normal flashes, but with the timing controlled by computers. Lex Augusteijn Photography via PetaPixel
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
Where can I get reinforced graphene for bullet proof armor? I live in McAllen Texas. I'm trying to get a type of graphene that is stronger than steel, but I'm not sure if I'm suppose to get reinforced graphene plastic or some other type, don't even know the names and differentions.
Question by Anti11 | last reply
Instructables and Universal Laser are happy to announce that the incredibly creative Instructable, How to Enter the Ghetto Matrix (DIY Bullet Time) has won the Grand Prize in the 2008 Instructables.com and Universal Laser Cutter Contest: a 40-watt VersaLaser laser cutter valued at over $15,000!Grand Prize Winner How to Enter the Ghetto Matrix (DIY Bullet Time) How to Enter the Ghetto Matrix (DIY Bullet Time) provides an extremely detailed Instructables tutorial on how to build a cheap, portable special-effects rig to create "bullet-time" animations--a technique, popularized in The Matrix movies, where the audience's point-of-view moves around the scene at normal speed while the action on screen is slowed down."We want to inspire great ideas and provide skills, tools, and shared know-how," Instructables CEO Eric Wilhelm explained. "This project represents exactly what we're trying to achieve with Instructables."The DIY Bullet Time Instructable was created and documented by the Graffiti Research Lab, an open-source urban art and communication collective supported by the Free Art & Technology Lab, a Brooklyn-based non-profit research lab creating work at the intersection of popular culture and the public domain."This will be the cornerstone of our new lab space," said GRL member fi5e. "A whole crew of creative people are really excited to put this thing to use! Thanks for helping us bring the VersaLaser to Brooklyn."The winner was chosen by votes from Instructables users and our panel of expert judges, who reviewed the 14 finalists drawn from a pool of over 600 entries. Congratulations to fi5e and everyone at the GRL - we know you'll really put the VersaLaser to work, and can't wait to see what great things you make! First Prize(in alphabetical order) Autonomous Foosball Table Blu-Ray Laser Phaser! Build a Greenland Kayak Build a Wind Harp! Build yourself a portable home - a mongolian yurt Extreme Business Cards Giant Fresnel Lens Deathray How I built a carbon bike frame at home (and a bamboo frame too) How to Make a TRON Style Lamp: The MADYLIGHT How to build a sit down driving arcade cabinet Laser cutter, start slicing stuff for under 50 dollars Laser Image Projector The Spiral Data Tato -- A Curiously Complex Origami CD Case Second Prize The authors of these Instructables win a robot t-shirt and a laser-etched plaque. Listed in alphabetical order. 30 minute USB microscope The Ambience Enhancer Autonomous, Wirelessly Controlled Hovercraft Conductive Glue And Conductive Thread: Make an LED Display and Fabric Circuit That Rolls Up. Cool Wave Ring Dollar Store Parabolic Mic Handcut inlay A Home Power Plant - Wind Power Generator Revised How to Make a Color-Changing Lighted Faux Fur Scarf How to make a pair of Angel Wings How to Make an OAWR (Obstacle Avoiding Walking Robot) Make DIY Vanilla Extract "Quicksilver" Retro-Future Scooter from appliances and scrap metal Solid Wood Digital Clock The Stirling Engine, absorb energy from candles, coffee, and more! Squishy Breast Stress Relief Toy TiggerBot II Robot Tube Amp Rebuild (and Mod) U-Disp - The Digg (tm) display (Open Source)Wooden Gear Clock Expert JudgesTo help us judge, we assembled an amazing team of expert designers, engineers, hackers, journalists, scientists, technologists, and other really smart people. They spent hours examining each of the finalists Instructables and helping us make a decision. We'd like to send a huge "Thank You" to each of our incredible judges. We couldn't have done it without you.Violet Blue (author, blogger, podcaster, columnist, and SRL vet)Gareth Branwyn (Contributing Editor, MAKE Magazine)Zoz Brooks (Host, of the upcoming TV Show Prototype This)Joe Brown (Editor, Wired Magazine)Colin Bulthaup (CTO of Potenco, co-founder Squid Labs) David Calkins (Co-founder of RoboGames) Julia Cosgrove (Deputy Editor, ReadyMade Magazine)Chris Csikszentmihalyi (Professor at the MIT Media Lab, Computing Culture Group)Simone Davalos (Co-founder of RoboGames) Lenore Edman (Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories)Dan Goldwater (Founder of monkeylectric, co-founder Squid Labs)Saul Griffith (President of Makani Power, co-founder Squid Labs, MacArthur Fellow)Duncan Haberly (Instructables)Matthew Hancher (NASA Researcher in the Intelligent Systems Division)Brian Lam (Editor, Gizmodo)Ed Lewis (Instructables)Jeffrey McGrew (Designer, Because We Can)Chuck Messer (Tackle Design, The Open Prosthetics Project, host of Discovery's Smash Lab)Megan Miller (Editor, PopSci)Jim Newton (Founder of TechShop)Quinn Norton (Journalist)Windell Oskay (Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories)David Pescovitz (BoingBoing, Institute for the Future, MAKE Magazine)Cloude Porteus (Instructables)Randy Sarafan (Instructables, Eyebeam Resident)Peter Semmelhack (Founder of Buglabs)Tyghe Trimble (News Editor, Discover Magazine)Noah Weinstein (Instructables)Eric Wilhelm (CEO of Instructables, co-founder Squid Labs)Dan Woods (Associate Publisher, MAKE Magazine) For the full information on how the winners were chosen, click here.
Topic by ewilhelm | last reply
Ok I'm making a few projects and the cutoff for one of them (the bottom end of a bullet shell casing) is a perfect piece in the puzzle for another, i need a hole drill through it, so I got the drill of doom out and the apparent uber go through anything drill bits and the metal ones, I went to drill in to the bottom of this using the firing pin impression as a starter guide (it was dead centre) And at first I thought this was all going smoothly, and as I spun the drill up to full speed there was plenty of metal shavings coming out, I stopped for a look because a bit of distance had went by and there was a tiny dent in the subject, the drill bit however was noticeably shorter than before... the same bits as the ones we use for drilling out flint tubes in antique lighters, they're tough (it was bigger bit in this case but same type) so I tried the bog standard metal work bit it made no difference to the hole and was shredded away similarly. First of all what the hell is that striker made of and second of all what the hell drill bit can get through it, I knew they were tough, I couldn't be assed cutting one with just a hacksaw blade so i did it with the drill as a lathe...
Topic by killerjackalope | last reply
How could it be done? I have revised a version using only two microphones that once one of the microphones 'hear' the sound, a timer will start and will stop once the next microphone 'hears' it. This would essentially enable you to draw a line straight down the middle of the gun. It would also allow for tracking the location in real-time. How could you physically build it for a cheap set-up. I'll upload a couple of diagrams some time.
Question by Lance Mt. | last reply
So of you may know that i have been building a coil gun so for the next step i need a ammo clip. I am trying to make a ammo clip that holds 3-5 "bullets" so that when i fire 1"bullet" the 2nd one in line will spring up in place. i tried google, scribd, ehow, and even search here but couldnt find any thing help full.
Question by Kante Tech | last reply
How do you get that twrily thing in the instructables editor. It's likes instructable's bullets. In some instructables for the parts needed and materials they have this little orange triwrly thing. Can somebody show me how to get it? It's not in special characters. Thanks!
Question by HavocRC | last reply
Hello! I've been reading instructables for a while and now it's time to join and post a question. I've been finding nails in my driveway and want to catch who's doing this. I've got a 4 channel security camera on it's way and have been thinking and researching ways to hide them. Due to the 'clean' surfaces around my home, it's going to be tough to make the 2" diameter x 6" long bullet cameras blend in (so people don't vandalize/steal them). I've spent hours searching how to camouflage cameras, so I know the 'typical' tricks. I'm thinking about making a fake gutter extension and hiding the camera in there (so it blends into my one story house), possible installing a gable vent on my garage and pointing a camera through that, or trying to mount a camera about 20' up a nearby tree. My favorite idea is to take apart a bullet camera and move the camera lens module, which is much smaller than the whole camera housing, to a more discreet location. I've searched for a while but can't find anyone who has done this with an IP66 outdoor style camera. I know I'm going to lose the IR LED's around the lens, and that's ok (I'll have 3 other cameras for night vision). I think I can point the camera through a small knot hole in my privacy fence and be able to detect who has last walked by when the nails appear. I might make a small weather proof enclosure to protect the lens module...I think I'm a good tinker-er so this isn't the problem. Has anyone hacked apart a security camera and moved the lens module (by extending the wires) to a remote location? I know there are small cameras for sale, I know I can hide a camera in a bird house, etc...but I like to make things. I'm just looking for advice/tips from someone who has done this. When I search for 'hack apart a security camera' I get a bunch of 'hacking into a security system', or 'spy on your neighbors'...I don't want to do either of those. I have great neighbors, I live in a corner house where a lot of people/kids walk...I just want to catch them. Once I know who's doing it, I'll move the cameras to more visible locations (to deter others from doing anything else). Thanks for any help!
Topic by MountainBikeOutlaw | last reply
One that will also do things like columns, bullets, and let me add graphics?
Question by Packers Widow | last reply
Ok, what i need is a small video camera with a small lcd screen, does not need to record or anything, just on/off... i can make what i need with a digi camera but the PCB is still too big, as it has tones of stuff i dont need, so, is there a way i can wire a small camera/ccd reciever to a small display?
To see who won the VersaLaser, read the announcement here.fi5e was a finalist in the 2008 Instructables and Universal Laser Cutter Contest for:How to Enter the Ghetto Matrix (DIY Bullet Time)Should this project win the grand prize VersaLaser laser cutter package from Universal Laser worth over $15,000? Help us judge the contest by rating this forum post! Audience votes will count for 20% of the total. Check out all the finalists, and vote for your favorites!This is a forum post created by the Instructables staff on behalf of the finalist. This laser cutter would be put to good and plenty use by all artists and collaborators involved with both the Grafftit Research Lab and Free Art & Technology Lab. We could really use this to help get our new open source lab off the ground. Help bring a Laser Cutter to Brooklyn! Thanks to everyone for checking out the project, and double thanks to those that cast a vote for the Ghetto Matrix.
Topic by fi5e | last reply
Send a instructable or other on how to make a LED counter. not a kit but take a calculator screen (just a example) and make it so when i press a switch it it counts up one (or down one) i want to take a nerf machine gun and it counts the "bullets" as they pass and have a reset button to send it back to zero.THANKS -kieran
Question by qballcat | last reply
Hello ,I'm trying to make a guitar pedal based on the gain stage of Fender Bullet amp.I draw 2 schematics , but i dont know whitch is better .Can you check it for me please ! Thanks for advance ! sorry for my bad English! this is the schematic http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg132/chipmapple/chipdist.png
Question by login721 | last reply
I'm making the Good Samaritan gun from Hellboy per the instructions on Indy Mogul. One of the parts of the gun, the barrel, (erm....where the bullets go), is made from plaster of paris. From experience, I've learned that this can break on its own eventually. Is there any way to avoid it weakening or breaking? Perhaps covering it with something?
Question by Keith-Kid | last reply
I was wondering if it was possible to have specific power options for programs such as anti virus or media player. I'm using a windows 7 Home Premium. Both software is by microsoft incase that matters. I wish to have the computer recognize those programs and let the computer still run while the lid is closed. I don't want to waste power with the screen on uselessly, and screensavers aren't suitable for me because i do browse youtube quite often and they start to bug me.
Question by Chowmix12 | last reply
I'm trying to build a semi auto rifle that doesnt shoot only little knex rods but also little round bulets i have already the mag system witch reload auto and has like 10 bullets in it but only little round bulets no knex rods and i have a little problem with the trigger :s if anyone can can help me try to build a nice trigger and i would like the slide piece couse it has more firepower if it has reactoin motion
Topic by T3453R | last reply
Im making an marble air gun just like the one the teach you how to do at sentex.net and i was wondering if anyone could give drawings on how to make the marble gun eject shells? Is it possible on a home air gun? Please tell me beucause it would be really nice if i could eject shells on my homemade marble gun. And not only that but another question as well: Can i make bullets myself from melted tin?
Topic by Enzo55 | last reply
Last night our Panasonic DVD QUIT just as we wanted to play Swiss-Family-Robinson for the grand kids. So we had that Yamaha 6 platter player that first lost its VF display and later the player quit too the only reason its still shelved is its the audio drive for speakers installed around the room.. . What is a bullet proof player with easy to use control and HDMI output in your opinion
Question by iceng | last reply
I have some designs I'm mainly looking for recommendations and references for the materials needed. Also need some advice on kinetic energy replacement for high drops and jumps. Frame material needs to be light weight and strong. Outer armor will be interchangeable. Weapons are still in development more posted later. Also all metals must be nonferrous.
Question by DaVinciStein | last reply
Hey i need sum details on my research i'm not big rich person i'm just a middle class person from a small town but i'm making some research in robotics. i just need 2 clear sum doubts here.. 1)is it possible to make a jet engine much smaller than a back pack size?? 2)is it possible to make a system work as per our mind reaction like by voice activating?? 3)is there any metal that stands against the military tanker bullet??
Question by vjeeva | last reply
So I said i'd throw this up in the comments section on Youtube not too long ago, and I don't like it when something easy and free doesn't happen. This is some ideas and observations that have to do with coil guns (mostly). I'm in the process of finishing up several projects, so my resources are kinda spread out. I should have a prototyped coil gun finished in 2-3 weeks though, so if this doesn't clear things up, hopefully that video will. I should point out, I am a chemist with expertise in biochemistry, not electrical engineering. Basically my idea is to combine a railgun and a coil gun for the expressed purpose of avoiding the pitfalls that a pure coilgun or a pure rail gun have. At present, none of the designs out there would be capable of competing with an actual gun. By mixing the two, i'm hoping to get something that might eventually be capable of doing so. So.. I've included a very poor drawing (I'm not an artist). The barebones circuit is sketched in the lower right hand corner. The gun barrel, which is a piece of aluminum tubing split into two pieces to sever as a rail system, is sketched in the upper left, and again in the middle figure to show how to integrate the coil and rail system. Looking at the circuit design, you can see that this starts off as a very basic capacitor-inductor circuit. The charge is purposefully allowed to trickle through the circuit until the coil reaches saturation and the capacitor(s) are charged. When the trigger is pushed, the inductor side of the circuit has to dump into the rail system to complete the full closed loop. Because of the ferromagnetic material (the brown stuff), the magnetic force persists for a while (that is to say, it has high reluctance). The ferromagnetic material does one other thing that is important here. It forces the middle of the coil to be far off center. The coil is pulling the projectile into the middle of the magnetic field, but that is not necessarily in the center of the winding. Adding ferrite, or other high reluctance material, towards the end of the barrel biases the field towards that end. At the same time that the coil stops getting current, the rail system become active. This allows a charge to pass through the bullet/projectile, and, even though the majority of the force is going to be caused by the inductive coil, the rail system allows an eddy current to setup in the bullet. This does several things. First the bullet doesn't have to be iron, nickel, or cobalt. With a stray eddy current in the projectile, any conductive material will work. The advantage here is that once the current stops, the non-magnetic material stops being to the magnetic field, preventing backwards acceleration of the projectile as it exits the barrel. Second, Rail systems and coil systems are not often used because they are perpendicular to one another, but, this can be used to put spin on the projectile, in a similar manner to rifling in a barrel. After the projectile is fired, the circuit is open, preventing excessive electrical discharge. My circuit design is really badly drawn... =T if it needs more explanation please post up questions.
Topic by Qcks | last reply
Dr Purnell is actively seeking other researchers, engineers, scientists, designers or even sculptors and artists who also have ideas for new uses for cement.I'm not sure if anyone is interested or if someone in the community previously posted this, but I thought I might throw this out to the ingenious and innovative Instructables community. I thought some of you all might be interested.Main Page / Network Link:http://www.engineering.leeds.ac.uk/resilience/research/NACNetCementingtheFuture.shtmlLeeds engineers developing bullet proof vests from cementhttp://www.leeds.ac.uk/media/press_releases/current09/bullet.htmMight be a good way for interested Instructables folk to continue contributing on a global scale and to showcase the open-source power of the Instructables community. Plus, it might help you out if you're younger and/or looking for undergrad or graduate level resume boosting aspects for design and/or engineering programs.
Topic by MolecularMaestro | last reply
I am making a laser game/tag system and I would like an IR detector/sensor that can tell the difference between a direct hit and a near hit fly by so that the "bullets"can still cause sounds on a near hit. The sensor should be as invisible as possible but should have a very clear and acurate detection. If there is no way I can make it work I will tweak the guns to be louder. Guns will have to hit over atleast 200 meters "For snipers". I know I need a double-convex lens but I just don't know wich LED I need. It would also help if next to a focused LED there is a way to send an infrared signal in all directions for just a while "For explosives". I have looked at ad hoc but no idea if it would work in there. For the suits I will most likely use sensors connected to a micro-controller/processor. Oh I forgot to mention that I am not using infrared lasers because they will most likely burn or damage the equipment.
Topic by xpalix | last reply
Just joined, because of your post about rapid fire mod. I am doing it now, but noticed when i use one wire to touch the two sodering points, that niko belic in GTA4 just twiches like he is going to shoot , but never does,,, wondering if I should hold off on soldering because of this.. herd that some people have a problem with new batteries,, iam using new batteries now.. so i have the resister, went out and bought an older matrix controler, d21, just like your pics. so everything is fine,, iam just at the testing faze using one wire to touch both soldering points from your instructions,, but again when i do this in game play not online,, niko belik twiches really fast like he is going to shoot but no bullets come out.. please let me know what you think.. thanks
Question by cujomojo
I've had this pocket-sized external hard drive for almost five years. It's taken a beating, and I'm bumping up against the size limit. I'm looking to replace it and hoping for some insight from the Instructables community. Here's some bullet points: -I use this mostly for file storage and portable apps right now, but replacing it with something that will play MP3s would be a plus. Video is not necessary. -Minimum storage size would be 8GB, but if I'm playing music, it would need to be larger. Ideally upwards of 40GB. -Portability is essential. The current drive, when the cord is rolled up, is just shy of 3" in diameter. I'd like something that's equally pocketable. This also means the USB cord or connector must be integrated. As far as I'm concerned, it's not portable if I have to carry a cable with me. -That said, I don't want it too small or I'm afraid I'd lose it. :-) -Price point is below $100. Any suggestions?
Question by yoyology | last reply
Idea is to slightly modify the annoy a tron circuit to turn on a laser pointer at a specific time interval, then back off... Then i would put this into my lego mindstorms robotic thingy that will point the laser to random points on the walllink to annoy a tron: https://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade_Annoy_a_thing_Annoy_a_tron/thats all great and a work in progress, really just background inforeal question, just askin, is what technologies are there that would allow a microcontroller to "sense" where the laser is pointing and then to link that info to an sensor that would find where the bb bullet hits? Then just give me a percentage of how far off i was from the dot, maybe in the form of an LED bargraph display like this one: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G8942this isnt something i expect to do, but i want to do something with 555s and this looks like a pretty cool ideato clarify, on the top part, the laser and lego mindstorms are 2 separate systems, one is simply mounted on the other, but by using the same timings it is possible to make them work synchronously... its a work in progress, stay tuned if interested
Question by raykholo
Hi, I have been looking into cleaning my well water at the source, rather than fed in into the lines. I have looked at making a simple ozone generator by purchasing one online and using a compressor to get it down 40 ft. Then I came across "silver bullet" and what intrigued me was that they produced hydrogen peroxide, which apparently is a a better bacteria killer, perhaps more stable. The reason that I want to kill bacteria and have it in the well at the source is because lots of iron bacteria and iron in my water plugging up my pump every so often is frustrating. This product looks promising, but costly, so researching this I found that they were using UV light, but normally UV light makes ozone with air. Then I dug deeper and then found out they are using a matrix made up of something similar to Titanium Dioxide (there are different forms, such as anatase and rutile which maybe more effective) so that when struck by proper UV light, it gives of an electron which will hit water vapor in air and split up water molecules to form OH- and H2O2 and some O3. So, one can buy TiO2 online, put it into a container that fits a UV lamp inside and blow compressed air through that and down the well, but the powder might get blown down the pipe. So how can one crystalize it around a cylindrical form that fits around a UV light to make it more efficient? I saw a similar post by Ian and he wants to use it for air cleaning, but gluing doesn't appeal to me as the glue itself might react with oxidants produced and give off other contaminants that I do not want in the water. So, can I use a type of glue that is safe around oxidants? Is TiO2 able to crystallize easily? ( I read that it doesn't dissolve in water well, which would rule out supersaturating water and crystallizing it that way) Any thoughts and suggestions?
Question by Hendrik0360 | last reply
Plans? Ideas? Instructables? Bullets, ammo, makeshift guns, what are your plans? Hygiene, Food, escape routes? Can you suggest guns (THAT YOU HAVE USED!!!)? Here are my plans... Im saving money for a Walther P22, possibly buy a silencer, (They are illegal to use in my state, I belive not to own one.) I will be stock piling ammo for a 20 gauge scattergun, .357 rounds, .38 special rounds, .22 rifle rounds, plan on buying a cheap .223 rifle for picking them off. Also buying sights and scopes for a 20 gauge shotgun, a .22 long rifle, and a .357 magnum. Whenever my brother or parents drive me around places, I look for friends houses, some who have guns, Ideas to signal that im human, geographically and easily defendable homes and areas. I look for random scrap wood and metal, and I try to find out who will be able to take the stress. I try to meet people in my area. Still in the process of stock piling water, and getting those canned peaches I love so much. Im saving wood pieces, trying to find heavy sheet metal, just as gadget-evilusions said. I have actually begun to devise gadgets, weapons, landmines, makeshift munitions, ammunition, and other anti-zombie things. Plans on quick-welding lawnmowers to the front of a car, 2x4 plus nai equals effective weapons, chemical warfare angainst the Brooks zombie, and others. One of my main projects is printing and laminating topographical maps from google maps and applying section numbers to them. I have told my friends when the day comes, Ill be knocking on your door to save your butt. Im planning escaoe routes, and am in the process of building a two person raft. Pyrotechnics for signaling and otherwise are in effect. Everyone, get ready for Z-Day, and please, tip the chef! (Beacause, you know, chefs have big knives...) ~RoAr
Question by PKTraceur | last reply
For a few years now good people using this website tried to make suggestions, make requests or just attempted to provide helpful feedback and bug reports.Severe bugs are usually dealt with promptly and I like this very much.For everything else though at least I start to develop a feeling that tells me your end either does not listen or does not care.Users are what keeps this section and website alive.Users provide the content that allows you to place ads to make a bit of revenue.Users fill your servers with their ideas.Users are those you should help to have it easy and enjoy being an active part of the community.I won't repeat the things users stated or requested thausands of times already.But I do state that at least got enough excuses and promises over the past few years to think I am being taken for a ride.You state the users are highly valued - valued as what exactly?You suck in user's creations like a vacuum cleaner and promote it all through endless numbers of sponsored contests.You create volume and website hits only.Quality was reduced to forcing restrictions and often totally useless standards on the user.There are articles explaining what a successful Ible needs and how to write one so it fits into the greater picture here.But where is the information how to embed pictures with the text? Oh right, that would be too nice for someone doing it or reading it, so we just plaster a block of images in a meaningless location on top of the text...I was a forum admin for a few years and if there is one thing I learned from it than : Don't mess with the users by "improving" things....Sadly Instructables never got that experience and we saw a lot of "improvements" that really absolutely no one using the website wanted or needed.The storm from that again showed how badly the user is neglected here as even reverting back to something close to what worked before took many months.The request to have some sticky postings informing the user about progress and what features might come soon was rejected again and again.Although I realised the offical suggestion to rework my last Ible so it can be published was a mistake:It highlighted the expectations you have when it comes to how you want users to create their Ibles.Creativity is not just the project in question but also how the creator wants to present it here!!I call it censorship if a person is forced to comply with standards that no one needs nor wants.We get excuses, we get promises but we simply never get anything that actually helps the user to be more creative and have it easy to create posts and Ibles.How long was it until we at least got a half working sorting option in the community section? About a year or so?You want more and better Ibles, a functioning community section again, even more revenue?Well, then give the user what they want or at least what they need to be creative again.Talk to the boss and tell him or her that we need more coders or preferably a new platform for all that actually works and is not just patchwork.Take a look at forums, blogs or other community websites that offer postings and content.See what is possible and what users create, how they create it.Search through the endless numbers of complaints here to find what you missed again, again and again.Instructables won't lose the ongoing supply of new Ibles thanks to contests but as said, volume and quantity is not quality of content ;)A user who is left struggling year after year will give up one day.Users who realise that it is not worth it won't come back after their first and only posting in the community section.And well, someone who created a really outstanding Ible for a contest and does not even make it to the final rounds might never bother again.Why is there no "open system" for contests?Anyone deciding what Ibles make it through should be open about it, post it and allow users to suggest entries he or she might have missed.Even more so for the winner selections.How many votes? What exactly made it a winner? Was it promoted by featuring it or listing it elsewhere?I don't know about you guys but even in a schools science contest the winners will be announced with some meaningful words why they actually won....Sadly, right now, I only see taking, restrictions and ignorance for the user here.The few posts from the support are highly appreciated but only a drop of water onto a red hotplate.Just for imagination:I took tons of pictures detailing my project right from the start.I took a lot of notes while creating it.I am ready to create a great Ible with it all so everyone can build or create it, I want to world to know about it.Then I click on the button to make my Ible and am greeted right away with an image uploader....Dumb enough I upload all my pics in one go.I start writing, I want to include a picture with the text so the user knows exactly why for example that screw needs to be done exactly like the picture shows.But wait...I can't drag the image down from that studip bar.Instead I am forced to create a new step for each picture that has a pecial meaning or purpose.Making a list of parts?Well, lets do it manually and by wasting precious time because there is not usable listing option anywhere to allow the creation with bullets or similar.Oh well, several hours later than expected it is time to take a preview of my creation.The images are clustered up and in no way usable to floow the text, so I start again, add more steps, drag it out even more.In the end I have about 50 steps for something that was fine in MS Word on a few pages.....To finnish I just need to somehow figure out how to get my cover images to fit into this tiny box.Cropping, resizing, again and again only to realise I might have as well used the thumb image IrfanView created in my folder...Then I do the final check.I try to make sense of the unplanned order of things and that no images makes enough sense because I need to click back and forth between steps all the time to undestand it.Then I take another look at my MS Word printout and the Ibles lands in my draft folder.When a suitable contest comes along I might try to check if the editing options have improved enough to post it.Well, I now have more drafts than published Ibles...Now imagine I would not be the only one....
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
No real category for this and never done a review, so must be right anyway ;) Have no longer free access to a laser cutter so I decided to bite the bullet and go on a budget - what a mistake... I will not bother you with seller details or something like that as I doubt it would make difference. So let's start with the first day of having the new machine... First big hit in the guts was to see how it was delivered: If you order something make sure not to use Toll Ipec for the delivery LOL Nothing in the van was secured, all prcels just flying around everywhere. But worst bit at this stage was to notice only one half of the delivery is there, the missing rest was picked up but never made it out of the first depot. As nothing was secured and there were already obvious signs of damage to the packing I wanted to refuse the delivery so it goes back to the seller to check. Was told if I refuse it all that happens is that it goes back to the depot for me to pick up as another delivery would cost money. Anyway, took the stuff in to at least check how much survived the transport. Also contacted the seller in regards to transport damage and the missing items. The odd thing was that the entire box was wrapped in sticky tape but the consignment not placed on the bottom, so I opened it up upside down :( The seller replied he did not use the brown tape just clear packing tape.... Further checks of the box showed there was another (original) consignment on the right side of the box, now hidden under brown tape... Seems Toll Ipec decided on repacking as well... So much for the transport side of things for now, now to the insides.... Inside the box I noticed the plastic wrap around the machine was alread cut open around the top lid - of course with damage to the paint work by using a sharp knife. As expected an exhaust fan and water pump was include, also a hose for the fan. But there is nothing to fit the perfect square of the fan onto the rectangle outlet on the machine! And although ordered in Australia from an Australian seller, the seller did not bother to make sure the stuff can be used as I only have US plugs on everything. The thing that really §$#*% me about this is the fact that the original plugs have been cut off and replaced with Hong Kong ones! According to AU consumer laws and electrical safety regulations it is illegal to sell new devices with such plugs - only genuine cable are allowed nothing that has been cut and screwed on. So no testing possible at this stage here.... The manual, if you can call it that, is completely in chinese, not a single word in english found anywhere. So what do you do? You revert to the supplied CD only to find out everything on there is chinese as well... Don't get me wrong, I am quite confident to get it going and calibrated without but after installing the included software I gave up as it is chinese only as well. Means nothing of use here too... Waiting for the seller to reply but conviently I got an automated response back stating the seller is on holidays till the end of February... So much for ordering local while on a budget.... Of course I could have got the same machine from another shop for 250$ more but who would have though I need to move to china and learn chinese to use this toy? Will keep this updated over the next few days to keep you posted. If all goes well one day and I get the right plugs, manual and software I might actually make a short ible on the setup and calibration for future reference. Ok, seems all the replies I made earlier got lost in the system so I have to start over.... Update: After inspecting everything closer to kill the time until the missing items arrive I found more issues than I like. One of the mirrors is scratched right in the center, the other has a very dull looking surface. The x-axis is at an angle and can't be aligned over the stepper motor as the ends of the carrier are not machined straight. Means you never get proper cuts or engravings. I found metal shavings in basically every area of the machine, including the clear cover for the laser tube - not what I call electrically safe. The exhaust mount is bend and the entire thing won't really fit in the frame of the machine. The lid does open and close, even stays open but get's stuck in the frame when lowering it. I assume by the dints that this due to the transport. Almost all parts seem to be mounted by force, if it is no good fit we just bend it and force it in must have been the advise used to make it. Image uploads here still won't work in any userfriendly way, so forgive me for the bad layout. As for the actual issues with the seller and shipping company so far: Toll Ipec claims that all loads are secured during transport at all times despite my evidence but said they will check on the driver to make sure. Sadly I was also told that I am unable to make a claim for the transport damages, only the account holder, the seller can do it. Here starts the real dilemma. Although the seller is based in AU I now found through the Ebay support that he actually operates directly from China and only has someone at a local warehouse dealing with the stuff for AU. The seller has no replacement machine and no spares at all. The seller does not acknowledge the claim for the damages and states the machine was in perfect order when he sent it. Did I mention it does not help that the seller obviously uses a translator for his english replies?... Next problem is that he, so far, refuses to make a claim with Toll Ipec for the damages - he really does not understand that I can not do a thing in this case and that only he can. Ebay is keeping it quite as well, stating I should first try to sort the matter with the seller and if that is of no good I can start a claim next week. Plans so far on how to proceed: The shipping back to the seller is over 50$ (thank god it is not china!) and I would have to use additional packing to make sure it goes back in one piece with no further damages. So I thought, assuming the rest of the machine is fine, to fix it and to recover the cost through Toll Ipec - after all they are the ones that did the real damages during transport. For the mirrors I will substitude the disc from and old harddrive although not looking forware to cut it into a small round thing. The a-axis will be shimmed so I can at least do some initial test of everything, after that I will have to find a way to correct this issues more permantly. An Arduino and Ramps board is already waiting to make it into the machine to try some open source stuff instead of the dreaded Moshi software. Also trying to get my hands onto an old plotter to substitute the electronics and maybe parts of the hardware. This would allow much easier work as everything can be done through HPGL and and normal graphics program. Simply design it, set the laser power and hit the print button in the software. But turns out these old plotters are become rare collectors items now :( For the final stage I plan to have it all electrically save with a proper controller board and Wifi support. Not sure how long it will take but I will get there LOL Will reply with an update once I go some news.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
I recently had the joy of needing a new screen protector for my mobile after being dumb enough to drop it on gravel. The hard cover took all the impact but the film protector on the screen was scratched badly. Was old and partially worn anyway so I decided to upgrade to a Tempered Glass screen protector. Being somewhere rural I had no chance to get one in a shop so I ordered online. With no intention of advertising for some sellers, I collected a few links so you can check what I am talking about: Item1 Item2 Item3 Item4 Item5 Item6 So, what is my concern with these? They all can be found on amazon and other online services as well as on local markets... As I said I ordered a glass screen protector. If you check these listings and even some of the packing you will notice they all have a thing in common - being shatter proof and of 9H hardness. I also love this video showing how to remove and fix a glass screen protector! The last time I checked glass had one very distinct feature: It is hard and before it really bends it breaks - unless you use fibre optics of fibre glass cloth... What is my concern and warning here? Pretty simple: Stay away from expensive scams! Some claim their screen protector is only 0.25mm thick, even the 0.2mm one I measured was over 0.5mm with the glue... The hardness of 9H refers to the so called Moh's hardness - look it up on Wikipedia if you like. That means these tempered glass protectors would have a similr hardness than a diamond, or at least close to it. Problem is that they are made from plastic to start with and not glass at all. They claims that the screen protector is flexible because it is so thin - again a fake! Even the thinnest tempered glass will shatter if you bend it enough, not so these plastic ones. If you think I am making all this up try to use a really sharp knife or deburring tool and cut the thin sides of one of these protectors. All the ones I tested could be cut quite easy - and I though glass can't be cut with a kinfe... A nice website showing that the scratch resistance is far from the claims can be found here. And a video showing how a real glass screen protector sounds and breaks can be found here. So is it really all bad and should I avoid getting one? Not really if it is only for the added protection. To be clear here, and without the intention to blame any of the above sellers, some protectors actually do have a top layer made from glass and you can hear it as in the above video - it sound solid and not like plastic if you tap it with something hard. Another factor is the simple fact that plastic absorbs impact much better than glass. So where a real glass screen protector might shatter and crack like in the above video, the fake ones might one get a nasty dint or scratch. But you should be aware and clear about what you get and what to expect from it. These glass imitations are made from a strong polycarbonate plastic, similar to the stuff used for bullet and explosion proof "glas" windows - if you every watched the Mythbusters you have seen the big sheets I mean. The top layer of these things is specially treated to repell water, oil and dirt, it also gives the surface the good scratch resistance. The technique is nothing new, camera lenses, plastic sheets and the clear covers you see over the timetable at your bus stop all use it. The new thing is to intentionally mislable a product to make the consumer think it is glass ;) What is the real difference for the user? Check this video. Here a guy performs a drop test with a real glass screen protector. Thing is once the protector breaks the screen itself is broken too but until then it was not too bad. Here it is demonstrated how a real glass screen protector reacts to certain types of abuse - one of the reason I decided on glass. Compared to the plastic counterfeits just the sound on the glass is worth it, but I think the hacksaw was best. Another video from XDA gives a bit more info on how the glass is made - if you can't seeing a phone being abused then don't watch the drop tests at the end ;) Glass with these hardness levels and types of surface protection will give the user a long and worry free use of the phone. The plastic fakes will perform at a similar level for some time but will show signs of wear long before even the top coat of the glass one fails. Both types have their uses and if the fakes would be labeled correctly the user would actually benefit from that. On bigger screens like a tablet I would actually prefer the plastic ones to prevent damage once it needs replacing. On a mobile used in less than perfect conditions I would also go for plastic as it usually is a bit thinner and will fit better within quality hard covers. But when it comes to real abuse like using with dirty fingers most of the time or mostly outdoors where a lot of dust and fine sand can be involved I always go for glass. If you paid attention to the surface treatment then you already realised that the plastic and the glass are in the same region, making them quite scratch resistant. Still fine sand or metal dust will scratch it.... The difference is in the hardness of the actual material that was covered with the oleophobic film. Glass will not give in any way, where plastic is much softer - so not to be confused with the surface hardness! This mean that sharp and point object will easier penetrate the plastic than the glass, something to be considered if you often ecounter harsh use. In terms of actual protection we need to differenciate between surface quality and actual screen damage. After all when badly scratched we can replace the protector but if the display got damaged we are back to square one. The surface hardness was already covered so let's move on to the screen itself. In some of the above videos you can see the abuse a screen might see in normal conditions, and if we would not drop our phones so often repair shops would not be at every corner LOL I have done quite a few screen repairs, mostly for friends and work mates that did not want to pay the hefty extras in a repair shop. From there I got the stories on how it happened and in almost all cases the screen cracked when the phone landed on the corners. In one case the screen and glass protector failed, including the actual display when the phone was dropped out of a 4WD and landed screen first onto a rock. A glass protector will spread the (direct onto the face) impact force onto a much larger area, where a plastic one will produce a dint onto the actual screen much sooner. So again glass wins in terms of actually protecting your expensive screen. But be aware that all this is useless if the phone lands on the corners!! Let me explain: Both the top glass on your screen and the screen protector have a thin layer of "glue". This acts like a shock absorber, so unless an impact goes deep enough so the pressure on the actual screen is too much only the protector should fail. But the screen itself is a tight fit into the frame of the phone, so all side and corner impacts go directly into the glass. As the rest of the glass has no way to give or go the stresses will crack the screen. How should I treat my phone with the new screen protector? Exactly the same way you would without it of course. But if you don't have a proper cover that offers protection of the corners you should invest in one. Having a quality protector and a good case does not mean your phone can be used as a football, see it as an added insurance in case something does go wrong. For obvious reason it can also pay off to have a spare at hand, if something bad happens that requires replacement of the protector you won't be left with an unprotected screen ;) Last but not least, double it up: For people that already know their screen will see a fair bit of abuse in term of scratches it is a good idea to put an extra film protector onto the glass one. Once it is too scratched you peel it off and replace it, while the glass protector gives you the actual protection for your screen. Corning Willow glass As time of wrinting Corning Willow glass is the only "flexible" glass on the market, unless stated with your flexible screen protector you can assume it will be just plastic. I did not list it above as this high tech material is mainly reserved for displays and at least to my knowledge is not available for screen protectors, although I will stand corrected as I have to assume some big players use it for their protectors. The material is actually a sandwich where an ultra thin sheet of glass stis bewteen two layers of durable coating, read it up on their website it is quite interesting. It won't reach the strength of their famous Gorilla glass so without an outer plastic that has the additional oleophobic coating it won't provide the strenght of real tempered glass protectors. Some phones like the Galaxy Round and the fleixble HTC phones use it for example.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply