What makes a battery corrode?

 This device has been inside its whole life with occasional use. It consists of an LED, a resistor, three AA's in RatShack holders, and a push button. For the second time one of them has corroded and split open; IIRC it was in the same slot. Is the holder crappy? Am I buying punk batteries? Circuit issues (this was my first soldering project)? Basically, does my circuit need trouble-shooting or is it just dumb bad luck? Thanks!

Question by ToniRose   |  last reply


How do I get rid of corrosion in electronics? Answered

In some of my old electronics I have noticed the corrosion that has caused destruction.  I make attempts to clean it out by scraping (usually with a knife).  So, do you have any good remedies to my solution, please help!

Question by Kaptain Kool   |  last reply


Specific replacement wire to use for battery-pack?

Hi all,after finding an old etchingpen and opening it up to (see picture)needless to say i need to replace the coil-wire. is there a specific or special material to use here? i assume i can't just use any wire...i'm an electric-noob, so please be clear and don't use to much specific termonology - i probably won't understand! :PThnxz in adance

Topic by Brian M V   |  last reply


Is there any reaction between aluminum an bronze? Answered

I would like to use some bronze bushings on an aluminum rod, but would like to know if some kind of reaction will happen (like the aluminum corroding or something bad). Thanks

Question by qwertyboy   |  last reply


How to make soda pop aluminum look worn out? Answered

I've read that aluminum doesn't rust, and that it can be corroded but that it doesn't really make it look worn out/old but makes white blotches. I need a solution to make it look worn out, doesn't need to be a fast process though.

Question by Grujah   |  last reply


Calcium Chloride Corrosive Effects

I know that calcium chloride can corrode metal, but does it require direct contact or can it generate fumes that could corrode?   Here's the issue:  I have a wood stove and I place a container of Damp Rid inside over the summer to absorb moisture.  It looks like the Damp Rid plastic container had a small crack, so moisture passed through the calcium chloride and through the container and through the back of the stove After a while I noticed a pool of water behind the stove.  I traced the problem back to the Damp Rid container, cleaned up the moisture inside and outside the stove, and replaced the Damp Rid.  At the same time I noticed areas all over the exterior of the stove where the finish was coming off, areas that were not in contact with the water.  In fact, at least one section of the stove that had direct contact shows no sign of  a problem. I'm trying to discover if the calcium chloride caused the problem, or if it's something else causing the damage.

Topic by corgaff 


Platinum and fuel cells.

A couple of questions: 1) Does anybody know where to get cheap platinum wire (or platinum coated wire) 2) Does AC work better than DC for electrolysis because neither of the poles will corrode. 3) fuel cells produce around 2 volts, right? 4) Is there a cheaper alternative than platinum for converting hydrogen (and does it need the oxygen?) into water and electricity?

Topic by guyfrom7up   |  last reply


can i fix a laptop battery with these? Answered

I have a powerbook 190 battery, but the batteries are all corroded and have leaked some acid. i was looking online, and i found some batteries, but i don't know the mah value of the original batteries, so i think these ones will work. it originally has 12 batteries in the pb190, so i'll be needing to get 12 of these. they will work, right? http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25496

Question by zack247   |  last reply


Waterproofing RC servo connections?

Hi everyone. I have used epoxy to waterproof my RC receivers. I have thought that there is no need to waterproof the connections because it is only 6V and not enough to corrode the connectors. I still want to be able to swap my receivers between models. I have splashed through puddles before but not completely submersed it in water. So is there any reason that I should be waterproofing these connectors? Or is the voltage not enough to cause any problems? Thanks, David.

Question by David97   |  last reply


Can my iphone 6 be fixed after salt water damage? Answered

Hi, Can my iphone 6 be fixed after salt water damage? It was sitting in rice for about a week while I was on holiday after salt water got through my waterproof case. After a week I can home and put it in isopropyl alcohol and then let it to dry for 24 hours. This didn't work, opened it up and there's lots of corrosion, one of the connectors has corroded and the battery has corrosion on too.  IS this past repair??

Question by mazrl13   |  last reply


What size motor and battery are needed to run a kiddie train ride weighing about 250 lbs?

I have a kiddie train ride that was designed to run by charging the track in order to run the motor.  I can't find the parts for it, I'm missing a transformer, and the tracks may be too corroded to conduct electricity.  I would like to convert this ride to run off of a marine battery and motor using an on off switch, or timer of some sort.  What size motor, and battery should i be looking for?  I have read that these rides use 5 amps to get started and 3 amps while running.

Question by tanyaj1212   |  last reply


Wireless water level indicator?

I have a tank that's above my 2 story house. I did use a 50 foot Ethernet cable and wire up a level indicator, with 5 levels from empty to full. But the wires always corroded, and it just stopped working. What i'am looking for is a way, to do the same wirelessly. Maybe even automate via ifttt, as my motor is connected to a smart plug the HS100. How can i accomplish this, the tank is open to the elements, so something waterproof, and solar/battery operated would be great. I did think of the Xiaomi Water sensor, which generally checks for dampness,but that needs a Xiaomi gateway, so what does the community suggest? 

Question by TalkingStuffN   |  last reply


Electro-former- Need plans for building an electro-former. Had 1 in tackle box / plastic garbage can for vat years ago.

I need plans to build a new electro-former. Built 1 years ago as a BFA student at N.I.U. It was so cool. The main unit and rheostat  were in a plastic tackle box and a plastic garbage can was the vat. This was used for heavy plating over sculpted wax. Unfourtanly, it had corroded while in storage. and I had to throw it out. I will be using it to add to me jewelry line. I can also provide step - by - step tutorial to post on this sight. Oh, this is used outside under a covered building.. no need to worry about a scavenger for fumes.                                                            Thanks for your help and ideas!      

Question by bhaworth1   |  last reply


Small antique motor running rough, lubricant? suggestions as to a product Answered

I have a small antique desk fan that I am refinishing the art deco base on.  Now keep in mind, in another life I was an antique dealer.  I know messing with it drops the value, however the base was all ready badly corroded.  The motor runs, though rough.  I think it is most likely bearings, and or possible winding's could have a small short, though that is doubtful.  Lubricant for the bearings?   And keep in mind cleaning it with aggressive chemicals like acetone could melt the varnish off the winding's, then I'm really hooped.  Now the obvious would just be to replace the motor, but pieces like this were built not to ever be opened again, at least without hope of putting them back together the same way.  Thanks

Question by iminthebathroom   |  last reply


DIY or Mod a rechargable Battery for Old camera

Hello, I've got a great old 16mm Cine camera, but unfortunately the battery has corroded into non-existence. Fortunately I managed to get into contact with a guy who used to rent out the same camera and said that I needed to find or make the following battery. Voltage between 8 and 12 Volts, with 3.8Ah I would like to be able to recharge this battery as it would save a lot of money and obviously I would like an easy as well as safe way to charge them. I'm not much of an electrical guru, but I can solder, follow instructions and work some things out for myself, but I really need some help getting this machine working again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Topic by crudworks   |  last reply


Firefox has issues with Instructables? Answered

Hi there, I am on a MacBook, running system 10.6.8, using Firefox v 29.0.1. When I go to various instructables (I checked out the "nettles" one and the "corroded battery terminals" cleaning one,, I cannot download the PDF. It asks me to sign in, and then asks me to sign in again, not acknowledging my having done so. When I went to the "Forums" page, the upper right hand of the site DID indicate that I was signed in. I found using Safari I could download the files I want, but I prefer to use Firefox. This has been the case for a while now, even through a few Firefox upgrades. I am assuming that others are not having the problem? Sorry to be writing to you via this means, but couldn't figure out how to do so on the "bugs" page, and it looks like no one has written on those pages for 2 years. Thanks for your help on this. Catherine

Question by Cat00x   |  last reply


laptop backlight question? Answered

Long story short.  Room mate got bleach on his Toshiba laptop.  It spilled into the port of the usb area, hdmi, network cable side and he said it instantly cut off. He tried turning it on and the power light would just flick off. (he also borrowed my movie that i rented from the library)  After drying it all day we took it apart and noticed the bleach had corroded the usb port. I remembered in my college days that shorting a usb port will cause power supply to cut off. So i said lets get some CRC QD cleaner and just clean the corrosion and it should work. I couldn't get any electric cleaner but the people who work across the street had some non chlorinated break cleaner.  We used that to clean as much of the corrosion as possible off the usb and noticed some on two of the chips on the motherboard had corrosion.  Spent about 20 min cleaning each pin on the chips to separate them and tried powering it again.  (at this point the laptop is mostly apart and just got bare essentials put together).  It worked, fans started spinning and screen flashed its toshiba windows didnt shutdown logo. I begin to assemble it as much as possible without putting any screws in. I got the keyboard in and every electrical component.  i mashed the power button and the backlight on the screen wont come on.  I can see the text on the screen change but no light. Take the keyboard out and it works normally.  Can someone help me, or got any pointers?  I'm away from home so I dont have access to fancy equipment like tooth brushes or contact cleaner.

Question by thematthatter   |  last reply


Soldering help required

Hi everyone. I just signed up for Instructables, but I have been a constant visitor for a while now. I'm also the happy owner of a cheap soldering iron I bought a while ago for some projects I had on mind, so I've been checking out all those Instructables about soldering to have a clue of how to solder without dying on the attempt. The problem is, most of them are for soldering circuits and I'm more interested in other kind of stuff like audio wires, speakers, LEDs, switches, and the most audio plug jacks. So, I bought my soldering iron (a pretty cheap one) and started to use it but, hell, I just cannot figure out how to do it right. The first time I used it I tried to tin it correctly but I think I might have let a spot I couldn't tin quickly and apparently that spot never heated correctly. After several days of use the tip of the darn thing changed a few times of color to finally corroded and the mentioned spot of the tip fell apart although I cleaned it and tinned it after every use. My second bigger problem is that after tinning the tip the solder appear to have life of its own. Usually I put the tip upon the place where I want to solder and next to the wires, apply the solder, and then the solder: a) Melt, shrinks and go back the way it came.... or b) A portion stays in place but manage to stay down, left or right from the wires to be soldered. When trying to tin wires the solder always rejects them (I think running away from them). So please, help. Could anyone tell me what am I doing wrong. Is it the solder? Do I need to stop being cheap and buy a better soldering iron?? Is it me doing all wrong?? Can anyone post a "Soldering for less than dummies" Instructable??? Any help will be highly appreciated.

Topic by fiola   |  last reply


rc car no longer accelerating?

Alright, so ive got this rc car, it runs off of a 7.2v battery pack and has variable speed and turning. it is not a hobby-grade car, but it is still something id like to hold onto. today, when i tried to drive it, i discovered it could not accelerate, forwards or reverse. it can steer fine, but trying to accelerate does nothing. ive ruled out the controller and the motor, which means the h-bridge and associated circuitry must be to blame. i tested the battery in another car of the same model (not mine), and all was well there. the h-bridge must be PWM controlled in order for there to be variable speed, so heres what im figuring: the motor is making a clicking noise when i pull the trigger on the remote, looking at the motor, it is turning very little and then stopping and then doing this again, at a fast rate. when it stops turning for that split seond it returns to the original position, because it has turned so little. i know the motor itself is fine, because i connected the battery straight to it and it spun up and turned the wheels. i have a feeling the issue lies within the PWM control. i cannot guarantee the receiver chip is fine but it seems kind of odd that it would be the part to fail; regardless i cannot find a datasheet using the numbers on the chip. if i were to try and look for an issue/failed part somewhere, where might you guys think i should start? there are a number of transistors on the board around the h-bridge, some capacitors, and a lot of resistors as well. i checked all the resistors inside the h-bridge and they are all the same value as the bands indicate, andthere are no corroded or cold solder joints. i plan to test the h-bridge on its own once i find a diagram i can reference to, that way if the h-bridge works i can rule it out and narrow the possibilities. if you need any more information please let me know.

Question by zack247   |  last reply


Options to improve cooling and reduce consumption for portable coolers

I recently had to start learning how to service airconditioners on the fast and that learning got me thinking about my portable coolers.... Some of us like to go camping or on longer fishing trips, so there might be one of those 3-way fridges in use or a better cmpressor model. The one thing they all have in common is that they can only cool down to a difference in ambient temperatures. No matter which way we turn it the cooling produces heat and that needs to get away somehow. The other big thing is the cooling cycling - or the lack of it on a warm day. After some reading and thinking I came up with some ideas that might be applicable to your existing cooler if you are willing to mess around a bit. Let's start with the produced heat, shall we? Down here in Australia most people either have the fridge in their4WD or camper. In a car or small camper trailer there is often the problem of airflow, so the cooler might be doing overtime for no other reason than a lack of airflow. If you check online sites like Amozon and Ebay you quickly find fan systems meant to be installed inside the cooler to get lower temperatures and a quicker cooling of fresh goods. The thing is that the box is quite well insulated and the benefit of the airflow goes only as far as it can reach. And even if the box is quite empty and you would have a benefit of the cold air moving around it won't change the fact that "improved" cooling always comes with more heat in this case. But if we use one of these fan systems to actually improve the airflow on the hot side we not only get better cooling but also a reduce power consumption - something worth considering if you have no backup power generator.... This of course brings us to placement. As I have done the mistake myself you might be tempted to put a 3way cooler onto your seat. Opening it with the back free means the lid always gets stuck on the seat, do it the other way around and you block the airflow. If you do put it on the seat then make sure two things match: 1. The thing is secured properly. 2. The airflow from your aircon is able to reach the hot side of the cooler. Even permanent installations in a camper benefit from a good airflow. Often the fridge or freezer is built into some sort of bench and the airflow behind might be very limited. A simple solution here is to add a vent on top of the bench to allow the hot air to escape. A better one is to use a fan that is powered together with the heating element or compressor and drives the hot air to the outside. How to improve the cold side of the box or fridge? Well, to be honest there is not much that can be done unless you are prepared for some serious work. Depending on compartment size, contents and how full it is a little fan can help to keep the temperatures even but it won't help to get it cooler or reduce the cycling periods for the cooling. The only really working way that I found is to use a "battery" for the storage of the cold. The cooling works by checking the inside temp of the box and if above the set temp the cooling won't stop. This is all well and good while we have a constant supply of power but once we are on batteries it would be great to keep the active time to a minimum. A working solution is to build a container that fits around the cooling element. Smaller types often use an aluminium heatsink, bigger types might come with a compressor and an evaporator. In either case proper sealing is important! Most good models are fully waterproof, meaning even if you would fill them with water they would not leak in other areas than the door. But double check and if in doubt use a bit of silicone to make sure. Ok, but how do we "store" the cold coming from the device? Cold packs ;) These things contain a ready to use mix that holds cold temperatures quite well. Another really good alternative is alcohol or radiator coolant, although the last has limited capabilites in terms of holding capaity for the cold as it is desinged to exchange heat fast rather than to keep it. With a suitable sized and sealed box around the active cooling element we will need longer to actually see any cooling happen (with a warm "battery") but that can be compensated for by good planning or a frozen water bottle. If the cooling element is covered with a box of cooling gel then it has to cool this first before anything happens inside the box. But once it does the pack is already far below the normal temp it would have during normal operation. Remember the inside of the cold pack cools down first before the outside will get cold ;) So once the set temperature is reached the device will shut off. But since the cold pack is far below the set temp it will continue to cool our box until the core is warmer than the set temp. Quick thinkers will now say the benefit is lost as the time required to cool the "battery" down again is much longer than the normal cycle time - and they would be correct. But as we get much colder temps inside the gel box the overall running will still be less compared to normal operation. And since from the second cycle on the gel is only warming up to operating temp of the box it will be much faster than with a warm box. Another benefit might be the ease of cleaning and ice removal. Some peltier driven coolers have big cooling fins or a quite bad design for the heatsink allowing mould to grow where you can't remove it easy. If the box is made from stainless steel and flush with the back wall of the box we won't have that problem anymore. Ok, but how much is good or too much for the size and gel content? You got me there as it is bit tricky. You don't want to loose much usable space for starters and you don't want to wait hours for the gel to cool down if the box was not used. IMHO the size should fit the cooling element with about 20% to spare all around. If stainless steel is not an option than aluminium is the next best choice. Thin sheets can either be be cold formed with a hammer or "brazed" with a good torch and the right rods. Ok, before that route is there anything I should consider or do first? Depends ;) 3-way systems usually use a flame or heating elements to heat an ammoia solution. After years of neglect corrosion can form and reduce the amount of heat transfered into the system and reducing the efficiency this way. It might help to take the heating elements out once a year or so to clean them and the contact areas from any corrosion or dirt build up. With a fixed shedule for this you won't have the problem of never noticing a badly corroded heating element either - and this is the main failure on these systems.... Modifying your camper or making a few mods to your 4WD drawer system is not for the faint of heart and should be done with consideration. The last thing you want to do is rush things to find out it was not necessary. Before cutting holes check if you can't find the room for the fan in a different spot and use ducts to control the airflow - sometimes it is easier to blow air in than to get air out ;) When it comes to creating vents or connections for air to the outside always make sure it is waterproof and insect safe! If you can let the outlet go downwards so water won't run in, for 4WD trailers consider a flap to prevent water from going during a river crossing. Flyscreens will not only prevent insects from coming in but on the inside also prevent dust to go eerywhere - allow to the removal and cleaning! The salts used in these cold packs can be corrosive, so you have to make sure there are no leaks and that there is no steel to come into contact with gel - this includes screw ends hidden in through-holes. If in doubt use a coat of paint but keep it as thin as possible. Even on peltier systems it might be impossible to remove the heatsink without massive surgery on the internals. So before you take it all apart to gain access check if it is far easier to seal around the box opening and possible screw connections using silicone. The cooling battery can be screwed on and sealed with silicone as well as an easy escape route. Although for this to work you need to check if the material of the box allows for a proper bond with the silicone! Some materials just won't allow anything to stick at all, even after sanding them. So do a test first in an area where you would be able to cut the silicone away without causing damage. If you can rip or peel it off the surface you should not try to use a cooling battery screwed to the wall, only use a box that is fully sealed with the cooling element and has a seperate back - one complete unit around the cooling element. I have a 3-way system with a freezer compartment that does the cooling for the fridge too - what can I do? These units either provide good freezing with the fridge temps too low or good fridge cooling with no freezing capabilites - depending on the thermostat used. Our problem is that is next to impossible to add a cooling battery of the normal kind to these systems. The L-shaped freezer box can really only be added with a L-shaped cooling battery from underneath. Only if you don't need any freezing at all you could add a cooling battery to fit into the freezer box shape. In either case the benefit is somehow limited by the way the thermostat is used. If there is no temp control for freezing it should be fine. Warnings... Only peltier driven coolers are free from refrigerants. Every 3-way or compressor system uses refrigerant as evident by more or less piping and heating elements. Never attempt to screw anything into a cooling element containing refrigerant! Even if you think between the channels all will be fine it won't be! The material is just pressed to form the channels and any damage caould mean refrigerant leaking out! Use silicone instead and make sure all surfaces are properly cleaned before applying it, also wait until the silicone is really fully cured before putting any stress on it. As said, these cooling gels can be corrosive, especially if DC voltage is involved. Make sure that everything that is not aluminum or plastic is properly sealed before allowing ongoing contact with cooling gels. Do not attempt any of this if you have to ask yourself what tools you might need or how make a suitable container for the gel. If in doubt check Google on how to work with aluminium or stainless steel if there are not enough Instructables for it. The gel will expand a little bit if it freezes, this no problem in a metal container if you allow for a bit of flex or on the side added strength  - whatever suits you better. Another option is to get a few different cold packs (by the active ingredient) and to do a check in a little container. Freeze it and note whe level cold and warm. Little to no difference means nothing to worry in terms of expansion during freezing.

Topic by Downunder35m