Hi! i need some help, i want to etch a PCB but i can't change colors, sort of i want to use the toner transfer method, so um, help me!
Topic by Sandisk1duo | last reply
I know that copper is a better conductor than tin or aluminum. But one of my friends a few days ago told me that instead of etching his layout on copper, he used the bottom of an altoids tin. he said all he did was sand the bottom until there was no paint of the altoids can and then he etched his layout. (Chemical bath, toner, etc.) So my question is, Does anyone know how to etch custom layouts (toner layouts) on tin or aluminum? **I figure this could save people some money and time on some projects. :)
Topic by batboy61490 | last reply
I wanted to start making PCBs. However, I read that because the chemicals dissolve the copper, you can't dump it down the sink or throw it away because it is "hazardous" and should be taken to hazardous waste disposal. I'm still in high school and can't really do that and/or my parents would think I'm doing something dangerous. Is there any other way to etch PCBs besides using chemicals, like a knife or something?
Question by 7654321 | last reply
To print out a pcb circuit you need magazine paper, a transparency or photo paper. Well I was just wondering if I can just take magazine paper out of a actual magazine if its a blank page and print right on to that and then iron that on to my pcb?
Question by Kante Tech | last reply
Question by shelton35 | last reply
I want to make some fake gears and such to decorate steam punk and sci-fi stuff. I'd like to take brass or copper and etch clear through, and have a "clean" edge. Sharp I don't really want. I need to transfer an image from a computer-drawn source. Heat transfer with toner I know, etching, well, not so much. I'd also like to do this on my kitchen table.
Question by hardlec | last reply
I'm working on a project to remove the broken plastic around my laptops screen section and replace it with two peices of plexiglass (Both front and back of the screen). with this i have a broken USB port that i can run power lines to two RED Leds to allow to light up an Etch on the plexiglass. but i really want to mask a small square in the middle then paint he plexiglass black then etch in my logo. but i'm wondering if this is the best way to do it? any suggestions??
Question by Gomex19 | last reply
Hey y'all, I have another question related to etching my iPod. I took it apart, and now have the aluminum housing with a piece of rubber (latex?) connected to it (the buttons). Do y'all think that the saltwater or current would have any negative effects on it? Thanks!
Topic by Bran | last reply
I want to learn how to etch my own circuit boards but I'm not sure what to use for marking the traces. I've heard about using a sharpie maker, which sounds pretty easy, but does it really work? To me it seems like it would come off from the acid.
Question by Arya42 | last reply
The guys over at Redtorope.com have been addressing a way to reduce the cost of laser etched/cut projects when having a job done or reduce the wear and tear on one you or your company owns. It's not really a hack or a hardware fix, just an exercise in thinking within the operating parameters of the machine. Really well done and explained in such a way that others will be able to apply to their own projects. Well done fellas! http://www.redtorope.com/2010/11/massively-reduce-laser-etching-time/
Topic by Culturespy | last reply
So, this really isn't whether or not I should post an iBle, but rather how many of you are interested in it. I'm using the saltwater etch tutorials here and am going to etch my iPod shuffle (2nd generation). The etch will say "iMake" and if all goes right, I should begin to etch sometime today or tomorrow. So, I'll try to take quality pictures and all, and if anyone happens to have any tips for me, they would be appreciated! ;-) Thanks!
Topic by Bran | last reply
In all of the tutorials for making your own PCBs, I've never seen the thickness of the copper discussed. Does one work better than the other for home etchings? I plan to use muriatic acid. Side note: does RadioShack still carry copper clad in stores? It's not on the website anymore, and I don't go to RS on a regular basis to check.
Question by CameronSS | last reply
Im in the process of piecing together parts for a 2 axis CNC and I would like to use it for laser cutting/etching. Since I'm new to building CNCs and I also dont have a ton of extra money I plan to build one using a DVD-r laser (200mW?) and just do some tests to get the basics down and play around with it. I would love to be able to cut 1/4'' acrylic as I have some laying around and I love some of the projects possible with it. What is the cheapest laser that is capable of cutting clear 1/4" acrylic? I have used a 40W co2 laser and it flew through the acrylic like it was nothing. Is there something for <$200 that would cut it? And is it something that you can just use a lower power and go super slow or do you need the power? I did some light searching and didnt really find what I was looking for but if someone has a link to some helpful info I would appreciate any help I can get. Otherwise ill just spend my days cutting and etching paper!
Topic by jdavis-9 | last reply
This site has GREAT 'ibbles for ways of etching and transferring toner to PCBs. I still use photoresist and would love to know if anyone has a recipe for homemade developer. I know its mostly Sodium Carbonate, but there's some pH nonsense that needs to be addressed. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Question by zaphodd42 | last reply
Hey everyone! I'm in the process of etching my first PCB. I have a few questions. I'm using the toner transfer method, with hydrochloric acid and a little hydrogen peroxide as an etchant. Anyway, I transferred the toner to the board, but I believe the glossy paper I used may have been a little too thick. The toner transferred correctly, but i can manage to get all of the paper off. I've tried a tooth brush and a soft towel. My question is, if I just go forth and etch the board will the paper dissolve with the copper on the board and give me a clean result anyway? Will the copper covered by the paper not be removed? are there any cons to this? (such as not being able to reuse my etchant) Thank you all, your help is appreciated Ken
Topic by KennyW2 | last reply
I thought Leah's ad-supported laser-etched laptop was brilliant. When we were first talking about it, it was obvious that if she could pull it off, there would be a bunch of copy-cats trying to do the same thing. Obviously Squid Labs and Instructables are listed as sponsors, so I get a number of emails asking for further laser-sponsorship of laptops, and they always make me smile. Here's the latest, hope you enjoy the irony as much as I do: Dear Instructables-TeamIn the very near future I'll need a laptop for school. To finance that, I am planing to put Ad's onto the top of it.I am visiting a college of higher informatics. The school has more than 1000 students, teachers and other workers & visitors every day.My suggestion is a cheap way of advertising. The ad's would be laser etched into the top of the Laptop (made out of Aluminum). The Laptop has a size of about 40 by 27 cm (= about 14 by 10 inches).If you are looking at prices of an often-visited website for example, you'll get prices between 700 and 1000$'s PER MONTH for a little ad.For 1000$ you could cover the biggest part of the whole notebook, but you wont have to pay monthly. You only pay once, and the laptop will be used for 3 or 4 years. Also the laptop will be presented in the internet in several forums. I will post into a few forums myself, and make a little video about the laptop, and the company's that put ad's on it, and also other people will show around pictures of the project, because it's very unusual to do something like this.Of course you dont have to buy an ad for 1000$. Size, type of ad and therefor price are free of choice.I am looking forward to an answer !If interested, I could also send you some pictures how laser-etched things look like on a laptop and we could talk about data or prices if you are interested..
Topic by ewilhelm | last reply
Asus, a sponsor of Instructables, has put together WePC where they are asking for input on their next generation laptops. As part of their sponsorship, they've asked my opinion on various aspects of laptops. Most recently ASUS EeePC review and Laser Etching.As part of this campaign, Asus was kind enough to lend me an EeePC. I gave it to an intern at Instructables, Matthew Dalton, who was really excited to try it out for note taking in class, and general portable computer usage -- his review follows below. Since I've been writing about how important it is to customize your laptop, I also asked Matthew to give the EeePC a laser tatoo, and you can see the results were beautiful! Matthew' review continues here.Finally, I'd like to know what you have thought about this Asus campaign. If you would be kind enough to take this survey, I would really appreciate it. Comments here are also good. Thanks!https://www.instructables.com/id/Instructable_Robot_etched_onto_ASUS_EeePC/
Topic by ewilhelm | last reply
Our company is moulds making company we are trying to make chemical etching
Question by design-centre | last reply
How deep can one etch brass (using the toner transfar method, like when making PCB's) before the acid will dissolve the brass under the toner? Like at the point it will dissolve the brass by going around the toner and coming up from underneith?
Question by guyfrom7up | last reply
I own an iPod Shuffle, 2nd generation, silver. It is very plain, and I've recently been reading up on saltwater etching. I want to remove the standard Apple logo from the back and etch my own text (it will either be "iMake" or "iBles", I can't decide). I've come upon two roadblocks, so far, those being: can I sand laser etchings (the Apple Logo) off, and can I etch through the player's anodization, or would I need to sand that off? I don't really care if it doesn't turn out perfect, or looks like a total mess. It's not like I paid for the thing. Thanks for any help!
Topic by Bran | last reply
These are the files I used to etch my laptop.My first design was intended to take up the entire cover of my laptop.The second design was shortened a bit so it could take up more space (the laptop is only ten inches)The third and final design is my final draft and what went only my laptop.I really like the design, and I'm grateful to ASUS for letting us borrow a EeePC to play around with.A slideshow with more information can be found here.
Topic by StumpChunkman | last reply
I just want to know if there are any chemicals that would be easier to get a hold of than having to go out and buy the ferric chloride or other etchants.
Question by PyroMonger | last reply
Howdy is there a kind of resist that can be left on the pcb after etching (except the solder points), as an electrical insulator? can it be used with the photo-etching method, or only heat? thanks
Topic by johnyradio | last reply
I am trying to open my etch a sketch so i have aluminum powder for thermite. How do i get the sketch open???it has no screws whatsoever and i cant seem to pry it open with screw driver.
Question by The Red Button | last reply
I have wanted to etch my own PCBs but didn't have the money. Now I have got a little bit of money and wonderd where the cheapest place was to get etching materails in New Zealand (preferabially in christchurch). Can anyone help?
Question by David97 | last reply
I'd reely like to have all the details....cuz im sick of not finding any1 to do my PCB's for me!
Question by Yashknowsbetter | last reply
Ive read alot about etching ur own PCB's and might start on it sooner or later, but i wanted to know, can u just trow away used solution down the drain. i wondered about this since it eats away copper, and some pipelines are made out of copper... and isnt it to chemical to trow away (like batteries and other electronics) normally...
Question by godofal | last reply
I was wondering if anyone would have any insight on my problem. I'm trying to electroplate an etched copper PCB with something that oxidizes less-readily and has a silver-ish color. Any ideas on what metal to use/how to get it into solution? Thanks, -Muffin
Topic by T3h_Muffinator | last reply
The questions says it all; I am planning to build a custom 2-axis computer controller etching machine out of a modified ink-jet printer. The motorisation and computation part it not a problem yet, however I have no clue where to start from about looking for a laser. I am looking foward engraving/etching wood, metal, plastic and some other soft materials. I do not plan to CUT these however. I do not know what kind of laser I am exactly looking for, nor it's power or anything else I should be aware of, including where to order it from. Even, will a DVD burner diode do the job? If you have any past experience with laser etching, or laser technology, please contribute as I would be very grateful. Thank you.
Question by matroska | last reply
I just received an parcel from UK.the invoice paper come inside caught my attention.it's removable,you could print patterns on it.i want to use it etch portraits.but I don't know what brand the paper is?it should be a common office sticker paper i think.Please identify this. https://youtu.be/4k5K1YeuQ9g
Question by gada888 | last reply
I want to put together an electroetching rig (as detailed here), and I already have a battery charger, but I need to make the controller (diagram attached). My question is: Is there a better solution for the circuit than having an 12 volt halogen lamp wired in? That just seems really clunky to me, and my gut tells me there's a better solution that is not "go buy a laboratory power supply". I have nothing against old-school, but this looks positively prehistoric. Anybody?
Question by RavingMadStudios | last reply
I have been looking around Google and found a few possible places to buy from but i wanted to ask the pros that make them all the time. can i buy a kit or do i have to get it all individually? Nvmd i found one :D but will still take supply suggestions
Question by demonxkid | last reply
Hi everyone, hoping someone can help me here. I have designed a pcb in expressPCB and was wondering if someone with a bit more knowledge and experience could give it a once over for me. I just want to be sure there are no errors before i go away and etch this. The design is based on a 30 channel ambilight tutorial that is here on instructables. It uses two TLC5940 chips that are connected to an arduino. I have left the arduino pins on the design unlabelled as they connect slightly different on each arduino (mine is a mega 1280). Here is the design. Please be gentle, i am just starting out with pcb design and have no breadboard at the moment. :)
Topic by maddoc666 | last reply
Well I just realized over the past few weeks that I really need to start getting onto the PCB bandwagon and start manufacturing my own stuff... So... I need materials and instructions on how to make my own PCBs... I have copper boards already (sourcing them is not a problem...), and i am pretty good at designing boards in EAGLE (I find it fun), but I need a method of etching them.... I have tried many toner methods and they never work how I like, I always get some pretty big mistakes and etching them sucks... I have heard of photo resist methods, and it sounds wonderful because it has a pretty good accuracy and can go down to some pretty fine wiring... My only problem is that you have to get presensitized boards (Expensive!), as well as other chemicals... As for etching, I think I am fine, I have used a vinegar/salt/something combo and it works pretty well, just takes a while to etch.. I have some muratic acid but that stuff is nasty so I have never really tried that.. Anybody have any non-toner PCB creation process that is pretty inexpensive? (I am in high school and have a limited budget already...)
Question by astroboy907 | last reply
I have a one sided board in eagle and i need to know how into a double sided board so i can etch it
Question by madrobot3600 | last reply
I recently tried making acid cupric chloride etchant; however, my batch always goes a darkish red colour as soon as i mix the two together even when i haven't added any copper. I've been using 3% hydrogen peroxide from a pharmacist and 30% HCl From Bunnings. All the stuff was fresh and in dark plastic bottles. The container i put it into is plastic. It still etches but it's nearly impossible to see if the copper is etched away without pulling it out. Can anyone tell me what's in the mixture that's making it red and how i can correct it. Thanks
Question by Lost in Translation | last reply
I need to have the answer! I'm trying to etch but I dunno how to make a single sided board on diptrace! please!
Question by jwoo2023 | last reply
I built a power supply using a 25.2 volt 2 amp transformer to use for etching projects. It worked on my test plate but then started blowing the 1 amp fuses I was using with it. I switched to 2 amp fuses and it works but my transformer is getting too hot. I have experimented with different amounts of solvent and different size plates, which definitely makes a difference, though my 1 amp fuses are at most lasting about 10 seconds. I have read about building a control box with a halogen light and a variable resistor to control the amperage, but would it allow me to take some of the load off of the transformer? And if it would work, how would I connect it to my power supply?
Question by Nordovita | last reply
Hi ... do you know, how to remove the copper layer from a PCB - by not using any ETCHING METHOD. Just to separate the cooper from plastic/f.glass ??? Do you think, that HEAT would do the trick ??? Like when you hold soldering tip to long on a pcb, it can happen that the cooper film become loose from the PCB. Thank you in advance. Zholy P.S. : The reason, why I asked = I was thinking of creating/extending a "ribbon cable" : 1. remove the copper film 2. stick it to the foil, that you can laminate 3. put the "ribbon cable pattern" on the film and ETCH it. 4. laminate it ... and cut the just the top of the laminate foil at the ends, so you have clear cooper for the contacts, but the bottom laminate film as a support.
Question by zholy | last reply