Internet failure detector?

Hi everyone - this is my first post and I hope I am posting in the right place! I want to be able to detect when my PC loses internet connection and be able to signal an actuator to drive a motor. Does anyone know of any software that can do this on the PC itself or a standalone project that can be used to do this? thanks for reading!

Topic by srowland2   |  last reply


Is my HDD verging on failure?

I decided to check my HDD's S.M.A.R.T status, and I was a bit alarmed to see my reallocated sector count at 32 and my pending reallocation count at 24. This hard drive has been running for about 2 years and a half, and I haven't had any noticeable trouble with it. But, what should I do (besides backing my stuff up)?

Topic by Dashing Rainbow Dash   |  last reply


How to test computer screen power adaptor for failure? Answered

I haven't used my Wacom Cintiq 24HD screen in a few weeks and it's not working properly. After disconnecting the power supply from the wall socket for a few minutes and re-connecting at most I get some flickers of the screen, followed  quickly by turning off entirely. If the adaptor keeps power connected then the screen won't do anything, and so I figured it should be the power adaptor that could be failing. I'm really not knowledgeable with electricity so I thought I could ask for some help here: - The power supply adapter has a light that is faintly lit while connected; - It reads *Output: 24V =-=-= 5A* on the back - The end terminal is similar to a Mini DIN Connector type connector, round with 4 pins that are arranged in a perfect square, but not as standart I think. How can I check if the power supply is working properly with a multimeter like the one in  the picture?   I did try setting it almost like the photo, one step to the right (20 V, black on COM and red on VΩmA), and when I touch the pins inside the connector I get a spark out of it. Pressing the black tip as well against the outside ring always result in a spark from the red tip and values reading erratic on the multimeter's screen. Can this be used to make any sense of this? I've looked for power supply replacements and they're looking to be very expensive to get directly from Wacom. One final question: if it is failing, could I try to get some alternative solution working here? I don't know, using an universal adaptor and request soldering a more common connector to this Wacom proprietary one's tip? Thank you in advance

Question by acn   |  last reply


Going Pro Membership Failure

I have gone PRO...but can't get any PDF Downloads...They keep asking to sigh up for PRO membership...What can I say...again asked again and again...I already have PRO membership...What is going on!!!...Please Let Me Know...Jeff Smith

Question by railsf   |  last reply


Hard Drive Failure Advice? Answered

Our family PC was on and running today, but when I left for a minute and came back; it was at a pure black screen that simply said "Hard Drive Failure" (similar to below, substituting my message in quotes). When I tried to reboot, it got stuck at the "Dell" startup screen, and wouldn't boot into the HDD from BIOS; although it did recognize it. Powered it off, left it for an hour; and it booted up. However, it did hit a "Windows Error Recovery" screen, and has been for a while now upon a boot up here and there. The computer is three years old. Should I ignore it, or replace it (the HDD) asap? My guts say better safe than sorry, but extra input couldn't hurt anyway.

Question by The Dark Lord   |  last reply


Time Machine read failure?

Hey all- back again. my time machine is giving me grief again for an unknown reason. I got my drive (seagate replica 2tb) about a month ago, and it has worked great until now. I split the drive (not a partition) into 2 parts, one for my itunes library, and one for my backups (this was about 1.5 weeks ago). Last time I checked it (3 days ago) it worked fine. I accidentally left my computer on while we were gone for a few days- and now that I have come back my backups fail. It says that my drive is read only now. I have checked and it says my last backup was they 25th at 12:08 AM, so its been about 24 hours since the last backup. I try to repair the drive in disk utility but it fails and tells me to restore the drive. I can access all my itunes data on the volume on the same drive, but my backups wont work. Anyone know how to fix this?

Question by astroboy907   |  last reply


Lego Mindstorms NXT motor port failure? Answered

I just dug out my Lego Mindstorms NXT 2.0 (it was buried under some stuff) and I decided to play with it. I had built it into a "Robogator" model, and I went to test the jaws, and.... nothing. The motors didn't turn at all. They just locked in place. I replaced the batteries, tried test programs, updated the firmware, and even opened up the NXT, but I couldn't find anything wrong. Also, the motors worked when i connected two together and turned one. I called Lego support, but their answer was to just buy a new one. Anyone have any idea how to fix this?

Question by pikmin205   |  last reply


SMPS failure, the Gates of the MOSFETs exploded?????? Answered

I've just build an SMPS using a TL494 chip using the power circuit from this circuit from uzzors2k, it's just a standard half bridge in my case using IRFP460's. The MOSFETs are driven through a small transformer that itself is driven with a H-bridge.  Yesterday I was trying it's first mains power test slowly ramping up the voltage with a variac when at about 180VAC i could hear some fizzling from the circuit and at 200V the GATE's of the MOSFET's exploded violently, at close inspection there was no shorts or flashovers and the gates were the only thing that was damaged at all. One thing i noticed later was the output waveform of the power transformer, unlike the signal waveform it didnt exhibit the same 96% duty cycle but a 100% with a lot of ringing on the rising peaks of the square wave, i know this can probably be fixed by reducing the duty cycle but i cant see how it could've blew up the gates. I've included some pictures so you can see what i mean by explode, as you can see on the left Fet the gate pin has completely blown off and the copper has melted slightly and the right image the same happened but i cracked the Fet open with a hammer to see if there were any clues inside. I really dont have a clue why this happened and would appreciate some help, thanks in advance.

Question by The MadScientist   |  last reply


Infared sauna electrical failure - help? Answered

Hello I purchased this sauna used a couple days ago, and its not turning on.. The previous owner sold it as having only an issue with the fuse, but I have exchanged all fuses, and Im assuming its one of the three components that are running in the rectangular unit mounted on top of the sauna. I will post all the photos so you are able to see detailed views of everything - I have now ordered a replacement for the power supply (s-35-12) as I cant imagine the transformer would short the entire sauna.  internal fuses are all 3 amp, this is the power supply (but the power running from mains is standard 13amp):  https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/MiWi-S-35-12-AC-DC-switching-mode-power-supply/700113_1699513295.html And from what I can tell there is a sort of voltage regulator on that PSU which has a phillips white screw which is used for adjusting.  My guess is that previous owner set it for wrong output and it blew the PSU? Alternatively there is the main board, but I wouldnt know what to look for, nor how to replace, as it had no particular model number. I tested current coming from mains to the main board (sorry I dont have technical name for that) and electricity is definitely arriving there, but not sure where (or if) it goes after.  I tried to swap one of the kettle lead fuses for the one on the PSU board, and then power on, but as soon as I tripped the power to on it blew the fuse.. image 1 and 2 are overview, image 3 is writing on PSU, image 4 is transformer, image 5 is main board and image 6 is PSU (which I have ordered replacement for). Thank you for your help!

Question by NigelD19   |  last reply


Outdoor RGB LED Strip Failure

Hi all,  I've had quite a modest installation of RGB LED tape (45 meters ish, split into more manageable circuits) around the perimeter of my decking. This uses the commonly available 5050 RGB LED Strip light, the type with the epoxy covering the tape and also an outer sheath to protect it from water ingress.  I had heat shrinked the ends and also applied multiple layers of liquid electrical tape where a connection to a 4-core cable was needed. This has held up well for some time.  After about 2 years, I noticed that some of my RGB LED tape runs were sort of 'corrupting' where a small amount of moisture had got in, and shorted the RGB channels so that no matter what I feed into the tape, it always output white (or some other combinations or colours). Still, I ignored this, as it didn;t bother me too much.  These ran back to a central controller, which did the DMX control and amplification of the 12v single.  Anyway, to cut a long story short: Yesterday I smelt smoke.  I was walking around the garden and I noticed that one of the strips had caught fire, at a single point in the middle, and was burning a hole through my decking!  Again, long story cut short, I put this fire out and looked closer. The strip was so badly burnt that I can't determine what went wrong here.  I'm thinking maybe a resistor burnt out and caught fire? The tape has been running 'on' for quite some time (weeks) so this is a possibility.  Another possibility is that there could have been a short between 12v and ground, which caused heat. Now, there aren't any fuses on the 12v rail (fuse and circuit breaker protecting the 240v side) but I wouldn't have thought that this would protect me from a fire anyway!  I'm interested whether anyone else has had a similar experience or has any suggestions as to why this has happened.  I love these RGB LED strips, use them a lot in my house, but after seeing this, I'm not a little more dubious to keep using them.  I'm an electrical engineer (in the making, at University) and this has stumped me!  Thanks Joe

Topic by joearkay   |  last reply


Electronic repair after a voltage spike or power surge

So far I was lucky and never got a lightning strike or other power failure to induce high voltages into my house and equippment. But over the time I got several requests from friends to take a look at things after literally all connected electronics in their house got fried. In some cases there is only a total write off as due to a lack of surge protectors inside all unwanted juice made it's way into vital components. Like a brand new Samsung TV where the replacement of the power board was the only option - which makes you wonder... But in other cases, like microwaves, induction cooktops, computers and such I had some good success with the repairs. Guess it comes down to purs luck on both sides, power surge was not too bad and simple components on the input side failed quickly enough to prevent damage to microprocessors or other sensitive parts. Right now I have an induction cooktop here again that failed after a mains transformer in street blew up during a thunderstorm. I can tell it was bad as everything in the area of fried parts has a vaporizsed metal film on the surface and not much is left that was a surge protection. I cleaned all up, replaced the varistors and missing parts of the traces on the circuit board but the cooktop is not performing the way it should anymore :( At some stage during cooking it turns off with a meaningless error code stating the input voltage was out of bounds. So my next attempt was to literally remove every single component from the filter and power supply board to measure for any possible connections between the traces. By doing so I noticed several points where I had a quite high but measurable resistance in areas where there should be none. Mostly on the direct input side where the varistors tried to save things. So I used my Dremel in a tin drill press to cut the circuit board aourd the affect areas (where possible with a drill, otherwise with a thin grinding disk).. Sure enough I was greeted by charcoal colored dust in several areas. After removing all material until the dust was "clean"  tried again and this time all seems to work fine. I would like to use this topic to offer some help and guidance in case you have devices that suffered a severe power surge of some sort. Many of us either have no insurance to replace those items or even if you do the device might be expensive enough to try a repair despite getting it replaced. Trust me, even it went up in smoke there is still a chance to fix it in some cases and if proper protective circuits were in place the repair could as cheap as a few Dollars for replacement parts. To get useful advice the following things should be included in your request: Some clear pictures showing a close up of the affected parts - if there is visibale damage to be seen. A brief description of what happened, e.g.: lightning strike directly into the house or outside power lines, generator or inverter failure or simply that the power company stuffed up and your entire street was affected. Of course you will need the means to take the device apart for investigation and also some basic soldering skills or somehow how has and can assist you. But if you are up to the challange I am willing to help if possible.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


copper wire vaporization with a candle ?

Hi !This morning, I was wondering what was the maximum temperature of the flame of a simple candle.So, this evening, despite the answer is on the internet, I made some quick and various experimentations of my own, mainly because there was nothing interesting at TV ...I put a wire of tin with a diameter of 1 millimetre over the flame and it liquefied immediately. So I immediately deduced the temperature of the flame was over 505oK ...Then, I tried with a wire of iron with a diameter of 1 millimetre, and it did not liquefied. So, I deduced the maximum temperature of the candle's flame was below 1811oK.Then, I tried with a very thin wire of enameled copper (thiner than a hair), the enamel vaporized in a flash and the copper wire quickly liquefied. I deduced the max temp of the flame was over 1357oK.This gave me a maximal temperature somewhere between 1357oK and 1811oK.Then, I tried with a thin wire of copper (0.2 millimitres), and it liquefied. But I also noticed that, sometimes, there was a green flame adding to the candle's flame.On the internet, they say that coppers flame are green. This would mean that my candle's flame is hot enough to vaporize my copper wire ? and, thus, that the maximal temperature of the candle flame is over 2835oK ?????If so, why can't it liquefy my 1 millimeters iron wire ?=o/

Topic by chooseausername   |  last reply


How to solve an export failure in Pinnacle Studio? Answered

I finished editing a video with Pinnacle Studio 15. Now I want to make a film of it with format MPEG4, 1080p. But the problem is, every time I click "make film", there is an export failure. I already searched on internet for solutions and tried almost everything I found, but it still doesn't work... Can someone help me please? ~Sandroknexmaster~

Question by sandroknexmaster   |  last reply


Disk boot error? Answered

Last night, I wanted some files off my laptop drive, so I stuck it in an external enclosure and plugged it into my desktop (whilst on). I then turned off the desktop without unplugging my laptop drive and turned it on again today, forgetting to unplug it. I have USB booting enabled, so it tried to boot from the laptop drive and as I was out of the room when it was booting, it entered the recovery partition as the hardware is incompatible. I have done this before, so I just turned off my computer, unplugged the drive, and restarted. Instead of booting from my primary internal drive, it got stuck on the post screen. It detected it, but wouldn't go any further. I then thought that it was still looking for the USB drive, so changed the boot order and removed usb boot, same problem. Removing my primary drive just returned the error "disk boot error, insert boot drive and press enter to continue", so I inserted the primary hard drive (I have it in a hot-swap bay, so it can easily be removed, although being my primary hard drive, not "hot"). After doing so, it kept returning a similar error. I then figured that it was still looking for my laptop drive as a primary boot device, so I cleared CMOS with the jumper and after setting it up again, disabling every other bootable interface except the sata port my primary drive is connected to, and it still just gets stuck on post. I have left it about 10 mins and still get the same problem. It is also hard to enter BIOS or any of the other utilities, as it waits until after post, so I have to either remove all drives or insert the laptop drive in it's enclosure. How can I get my desktop to boot from the primary hard drive again? Inserting the install disk is also hard, because I don't actually have a DVD drive yet, so I installed Windows 7 extended trial through a memory stick from my laptop with a disk drive. I have since deleted it off my memory stick, and my laptop is now in pieces hooked up to my monitor/keyboard/mouse instead of my desktop. It is on it's back and the hard drive bay is open in case I need it again. My BIOS is award with additional features on a Gigabyte GA-H55M-USB3 board. Both drives are Hitachi sata-II drives, one being 3.5" and one being 2.5".

Question by andy70707   |  last reply


How can I open .mod files in linux (ubuntu)?

I am trying to open a .mod file in ubuntu. Every program that I have tried has failed right away. I have tried, vlc, real player 11, and everything that comes installed in ubuntu. Please help me get this file open. Thanks

Question by TOCO   |  last reply


Connecting PSU (pc) to amp with lighted switch resulting in failure. Is common ground problem? Answered

Using a desktop psu to power a speaker amp. Have tested and it works fine. I wanted to add a lighted switch. The plan was to attach it to the green-to-ground short that turns on the psu, then attach the "everything's ok" grey wire with it's +5Vdc. This doesn't work, not sure why but it doesn't output the 5 volts I expected. I tested the light with the "standby" purple wire, this proved the light worked at 5 volts and that it was functional. I didn't want the light just 'always on' since there's no point in having it lit then. I tried attaching various 5V red wires and grounds but found that in all combinations the amp's power indicator light and the switch's light would each dim then quickly relight then dim.....repeatedly. I can only assume the light is not using a sufficient amount of power and may be causing a short. Since all black wires and the case are common ground I believe there is no solution to attaching the switch to the psu directly while also lighting it. The switch is the 3-pronged variety with power  |  load (light)  |  ground The amp requires a ground, 12 Vdc, and a remote which is actually 12 Vdc also (I have just shorted them and turn the power supply on/off instead as I'm not sure if the amp draws much power when the remote is off/disconnected.

Question by Andale_The_Great   |  last reply


How do you copy a partition to a different hard drive? Answered

My friend got an error on his Hp saying to  replace his hard drive and failure was imminent. What i need to know is how to copy over the partitions or data to the new harddrive.

Question by demonspawnedangel   |  last reply


how to send ups signal to long distance through a mobile or pc (with internet)?

I want to use my UPS to know my home power failure, when i'm at office(its like 50 km distance). please submit detailed diagram. 

Question by sripeople   |  last reply


Desperatly seeking low temperature or power failure alarm for hot-tub. Any ideas on DIY or hacked comercial product?

I have a serious need for a sensor that either detects when my hot-tub temperature drops below a certain point, or when the electricity supplied to my hot tub is disconnected. A wireless remote alarm would be the best, but wired would also work. I found this need when the power to my hot tub failed and some of its plumbing froze. I am willing to use any microprocessor or even modify an existing device to fit my needs. The commercial versions are a little pricy for my budget. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Is this a great place or what?

Question by rookk   |  last reply


WS2812b strip stopped working,what could be the possible cause? Answered

Hi, I'm using a 1m ws2812b (30 led/m) strip for my ambilight setup with adrilight, using an arduino mega. I cut the 1m strip into 5 smaller strips  ['data direction as per this description':  (5+5 leds in bottom) -> 5 leds at the left side -> 10 leds at the top -> 5 leds at the right side) ] and soldered them together, rechecked everything and installed it on my monitor. I'm powering it with a 5v 2a power supply and everything was working good for 3 days. Suddenly, the strip stopped responding to any data input from the arduino. Only the 6th led of the 2nd strip at the bottom lights up with 'green' colour as soon as I turn on the power adapter.  I tried using Adafruit neopixel rgb strand test as well as fastled library's sample codes but none work any longer(they were working perfectly prior to this sudden failure). It's as if the strip doesn't care that the arduino is connected. The single led (6th one as per data line & 1st one as per divided section, on the 2nd strip) works when connected to the power adapter and lights on/off as per the power adapter's state. None of the other leds work or even light up. What could be the possible problems of the sudden strip failure? Any help would be highly appreciated.

Question by Sudoer-_-me   |  last reply


Mini Tesla Coil Answered

I would like to know how this http://4hv.org/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?36853.post can be made? I tried to make it using the pdf that was attached but i failed. I have included pics of my failure http://4hv.org/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?99090 Can somebody please help me?

Question by deathnoteviewer   |  last reply


Is it feasible to use plastic as the material casing for a miniature fan driven jet engine?

I would like to use an old cpu fan and some old 2 liter soda bottles to experiment jet engine designs. Using lighter fluid for the fuel and probably running the engine in short bursts just to measure thrust output, it should be strong enough to survive at least several runs without dramatic failure right?

Question by    |  last reply


Transformer current restriction? Answered

I am aware mostly how transformers (AC - AC) work, but I am lest informed on a few key parts.  I know there is a direct relationship between windings and voltage as well as an inverse relationship between voltage and amperage. The thing I don't understand is what limits the current produced by the transformer.  I know you can keep droping the secondary windings to increase amperage, but eventually you get to a point you can no longer do that.  To overcome this one can use three sets of windings wired in parallel which will retain voltage but increase amperage.  The amount of amperage is still limited to the maximum throughput of the primary, but how do you actually find this out.  If one wanted to make a variable current AC welder, it would be relatively easy to predict the voltage, but establishing a potential amperage is more difficult.  What actually establishes the maximum output of a transformer because in some cases the max current is reached long before the actual failure, and is there a way to predict the end product.  P.S. I am not looking for the answer they use voltage/current limiting circuts ect...  I am looking at something like a pole pig which maxes out output before internal failure and contains no additional circutry, not a wall wart

Question by jj.inc   |  last reply


Laptop Battery Status? Answered

I have a Dell Latitude E6400 that may or may not have a good battery (I bought it used on eBay). I noticed that the battery status light blinks orange about 4 times, then blue and repeats. It does this when I have it plugged into AC. The manual says that if it is alternating orange/blue, it detects a non-Dell AC adapter. Alternating orange and steady blue means temporary battery failure. I'm not sure what the second option would look like. I have a non-Dell AC adapter.

Question by Arya42   |  last reply


Help designing/building High Altitude Balloon cut-away system

I am working with my kids to put together a High Altitude Balloon launch to take pictures. I am stuck at building a system to cutaway the balloon in the event that it does not reach burst altitude. Any help, or resources that would get me going would be appreciated. I am leaning towards a system that can me initiated from the ground via ham radio, as well as timer based in the event of communication failure. Thanks!

Topic by joatman   |  last reply


Best material for an rc car body? Answered

I bought a nice futaba controller set from Hobby Town USA and built a RC Hovercraft with it. It was a failure, so I took it apart. I now would like to tackle something easier, like an RC Car. There is less worry about weight on one of these, like there is on a hovercraft. What would be the best material to use to build the frame? I was thinking PVC, but I'm no expert. Thanks!

Question by kcls   |  last reply


Overheating Car - Causes and Short - Term Solutions

Overheating of the engine not only occurs in the summer, but can also occur in daily driving. In particularly, high-speed running cars, engines, and air-conditioning systems can cause boiling phenomenon when the water temperature is too high. It's dangerous to overheat the engine. It may hard luck that what can damage the engine. When driving on highways at a higher speed, or when climbing a car, if the pointer of the water temperature gauge enters the red zone and stays high, appropriate measures should be taken at this time. Here's how to handle the engine overheating.There are many causes of overheating, including insufficient coolant, cooling fan cooling the coolant has failed, thermostat failure, and coolant temperature sensor failure. If you deal with it improperly, it can lead to an expensive engine failure. Therefore, timely detection and proper disposal of overheating can effectively reduce losses.First, poor engine cooling: Poor engine cooling can cause the water temperature in the tank to be too high. When longer the water tank is used, the more internal scale will build up, resulting in poor heat dissipation in the radiator. The water with too high temperature will not release heat, and it will evolve into a "pan". In addition, the ventilation hole of the radiator is also a common cause of poor heat dissipation. If the external blockage is not ventilated, use a water gun to clean it up. If the inside of the radiator is blocked, then clean it with a cleaning solution. Second, the cooling system is not working properly, resulting in poor heat dissipation. At this time, check the tightness of the fan belt and whether the fan blades are deformed or broken.Third, the thermostat automatically adjusts the amount of water entering in to the radiator according to the temperature of the cooling water, so as to ensure that the engine works within a suitable temperature range, which can play a role in saving energy consumption. If the engine is overheated, check that the thermostat is working properly. Starts at 70°C and fully open at 83°C. When the height of the fully opened valve is not less than 9 mm, the thermostat can be put into the water for heating inspection. If the thermostat can't be opened or the opening degree is not enough, the thermostat needs to be replaced.

Topic by violantez   |  last reply


video projector won't work Answered

Hello, I have been trying to get a Sanyo Multiverse to work with a 20w chip LED. I may have tricked it's motherboard it into thinking it is powering a bulb. The projector stays on instead of turning off when the bulb was missing. I put the led chip where the bulb was, and turned on the LED on. I saw a yellow light. If I tilt the chip inside the light housing, it will change the colors projected. I could not get a change in color as I pressed buttons like menu or input. Is the lcd not getting a signal? The LCD wires are plugged in all the way.

Question by jbaker22   |  last reply


what does this dll error mean and how can it be fixed?

I cannot install battlefield 1942 and i believe it is due to a dll file error when i log in. i use windows xp. the dll error is CTMBHA.DLL. i googled this and i came up with no results that will help me fix the problem. when i try to load the game to install it, i get an error that says "an installation support could not be installed. catostrophic failure" a file on the CD called ikernel is what cant be opened but i cant fix that either. can anybody help me?

Question by Acepilot42   |  last reply


I need help on my joule thief circuit that won't function. Answered

I've been attempting to construct a Joule thief circuit but it appears the circuit won't function, even with the essential parts that I scavenged from a CFL bulb. The parts are: 112dl transistor, LED, ferrite core, 1K ohm resistor, 1.2volt rechargeable AA battery and magnet wires, 14 turns on the core and  I attempts to switch the connections on the wires, it appears no hope. I've watched all the tutorial videos on YouTube but appears to be failure. If you found a solution to resolve this issue, please explain it specifically. Thanks !

Question by BlackWolf1024   |  last reply


A 12VCD to 220VAC inverter that needs to power a TV(110-240 volts,50-60 hertz,75 watts) for not more than 10 seconds.? Answered

OK,so we've got this new LED flatscreen.There are frequent power disruptions,power failures,load shedding etc where I stay and most people have an inverter installed in their homes to run their devices during power cuts.We have an inverter in our home too but here's the problem-When the power from the mains is cut and the inverter starts to do its role,there's a small delay between this process which is hardly noticable but long enough to shut my TV off.Say if we are watching a program and suddenly there is a power failure,all the devices continue to work normally on the inverter except the T.v which has to be turned 'ON' again by using the power key in the tv remoye or on its panel.I guess it isn't good for a Tv to just shut off like that without first turning it 'OFF' with its remote.I thought if I could build an inverter that can run on a rechargeable 12 volts battery and power the T.V for a few seconds,filling in that delay I mentioned above.This way I could prevent my T.V from turning 'OFF' like that and could ensure it a greater life.I intent to add this new inverter as a backup power source until power from the main inverter begins to get utilised.I've included a schematic to give you a better understanding of what I intent to make.Thanks in advance for the time you spent on helping me out.

Question by Adarsh_tronix   |  last reply


Simple circuit fix?(Novice)?

Built this circuit (see attachment) using 2 solar cells putting out about 5.5-6v (got crap meter atm) . 4 xAA 1.2v 2450mAh NiMH Duracell Rechargeable battery's. Found that its drawing charge from my Android phone quite rapidly. Will another diode before usb fix the problem and block current out of device? Or a 5v regulator in place?..... Although i read they need at least 7v to work or they will drop overall power? or am i just talking gibberish here and need a slap?! lol! some help would be much appreciated! Incase of attachment  failure or watever....Link: http://neotoy.tripod.com/archive/2009/youtube/circuit-diagram.pdf

Question by scott_shot   |  last reply


installation error for battlefield 1942?

Im trying to install battlefield 1942 onto my computer with windows xp. i just defragged it, and theres sufficient space for the game. when i insert the disk, it asks me to choose language (check) then "install" (check) then as soon as it loads up the install wizzard, i gett an error message saying "An installation support file could not be installed. Catostrophic failure." sometimes when i restart the computer and the message goes away but when it is 30% loading i get another error message saying "Speciefied componet cannot be found in media. An attempt was made to access a componet that does not exist in the named media". i believe this is a disk read issue but what can i do to fix the thing?

Question by Acepilot42 


Cockcroft–Walton High Voltage Power Supply

Greetings! I have wanted to begin experimenting with high voltages recently and have already collected a series of projects that I would like to conduct. The only issue is that of my high voltage power supply. I have not the funds or resources to buy into a NST or MOT system and ended up looking for alternatives. I at first tried the ignition coil route that ended in failure and have now moved on. My question is, will a Cockcroft–Walton generator be able to run say, a tesla coil, jacob's ladder, or even a farnsworth fusor given that the necessary voltage is outputted from the multiplier.  Kind of between a rock and a hard place here, Thanks anyway!

Topic by SidC1   |  last reply


Dell Inpiron 8000 wont start?

I have an old dell inspiron 8000 laptop that wont start. when I go to turn it on, the power light comes one for about five seconds and then the drives stop spinning and the light goes out. I took it apart a while ago, but I put it together exactly as i found it. could this be a static problem or a cpu failure? I use this computer for testing out older OS's and it would be nice to be able to use it again. can someone help me? thanks.

Question by tvsamuel   |  last reply


How to parallel 2n3055 transistors? Answered

I am working on an inverter that will be run off a car battery. It will use a ne556 timer to drive the 2n3055 transistors (50-60Hz) I will have in parallel leading to my centre tapped step up transformer which will be a modified microwave oven transformer. My car battery is a 12V 65Ah battery that I will intend to draw about 200Amps from, the car battery will only be run through the transistor and transformer part of the circuit, the driver I will run off a much lesser power source.  Altogether I will be using 50 2n3055 transistors, two groups of 25 for either side of the transformer this will have a potential of 2875 Watts. How can I parallel these transistors to balance them to avoid cascade failure?

Question by The MadScientist   |  last reply


Splicing and extending a cable connecting a lens and sensor module to the camera's main body?

For a while i had this odd idea, of separating the lens sensor module from the Contour camera body, so i could have it inside the helmet front vent hole, and the main body on the back of the helmet. So im thinking of splicing a longer cable in between. an IDE cable perhaps? It is shielded, pretty much the perfect match The image is what  inside the camera between the lens module and the main body. The idea was to cut that blue bundle, and to splice the ide cable in (wire by wire) So the question  are - Is the IDE cable a good choice, or i ought to use other cables. - What are my chances for failure/success? The camera aint worth much anymore, but i dont really want to break it.

Question by davyflint   |  last reply


i want to stop the flow of current .....

I have the following situation--> i have two DC power sources one is 9v and other is 7.5v i want to combine these two power supplies such that when one power source is off then other is available....  for example if 9v is off 7.5v is flowing and counter wise also but i want to combine in such a manner that when both are on both should give the output.....and the problem is the adapter giving 7.5v has a capacitor which could charge above its limit and can cause failure of the adapter or burn i should say... i have the connection diagram.....this works but when i connect a led to its output it glows normally...and when i turn off the supply the led turns off slowly  giving an indication that the capacitor is over charging....please help me to restrict the flow of current of both power supplies in each other.......

Question by anuk07   |  last reply


match potential emergency energy sources w/ critical equipment

Trying to match potential emergency energy sources (solar, inverters, auto/marine batteries, wind turbines) with particular devices necessary for emergency response planning (laptops, flashlights, refrigerators, handheld radio units, other RF gear, wireless/wired networks) 1. Trying to calculate how much energy and in what form we'd need to, for instance, reliably keep a laptop running during power failure. 2. With respect to devices that need DC power - such as walkie-talkies - which are usually recharged (at least in North America) from AC power, through a DC converter, and then charged:: is it possible with devices which generate DC power - such as solar PV generators - to charge them directly without converting to AC and back to DC? We're looking not so much for particular matches between power source X and device Y - more methods for making the calculations.

Question by jsoroko   |  last reply


Mod a Magellan GPS

So I recently got my hands on a Magellan Roadmate 6000t car GPS unit. It's pretty nice, and has a touch screen as well as tactile buttons on the sides of the screen. I don't really have any use for it as a navigation unit, since I know my city VERY well, so I am looking into making it into some sort of pda/minicomputer type of thing. Maybe not even for the Internet, just music, photos, etc. However, there is a catch. Whenever I turn it on, it shows a blue screen. This may be because it is run on Windows Mobile, and it has been disrupted, or because of a hardware failure. But when I connect it to a computer, nothing shows up. So I'm looking for ideas on what to do and HOW. Also, I have a Creative Zen Vision W that I think I might want to put win mobile or something similar on, but the GPS is the first priority. So, any ideas?

Topic by peytonjr 


Triggering a flash circuit with a voltage pulse across a transistor

Hi All,        question from a newbie. I'm working on a project for my (steampunk) daughter. For part of it I've taken the flash circuit from a disposable camera (PDF 1:Flash+MechanicalTrigger). This works just fine when I close the trigger mechanically. What I want to do is trigger it with the same pulse (from a 555 timer) that I'll be using to do other things at the same time. To this end I added a transistor as shown in PDF 2:Flash with transistorTrigger. My intention is to feed the 555 pulse to base, saturating it and triggering the flash. Result, abject failure. Help! The proposed triggering transistor is an MJE340(NPN). When set up as shown the indicator LED glows but voltage across Emitter-Base produces no result. When testing I noticed that if I mechanically make the collector-transformer connection it triggers a flash, even with no voltage across emitter-base. I'm stumped. Any ideas very gratefully accepted. Thanks, Fred.

Topic by fredstein   |  last reply


Is this CMO chip compatible with this one for hot swapping?

For those who may it concern, thanks if you can help.So, I have recently found another CMO chip, one strangely on an old modem + audio card, and I want to use it use it on an motherboard I'm going to flash (fear of failure, so I'm going to hot swap with another one it if I can). I'm not an professional in chips, so I'd like to see if anyone can help me out here.Here is the two CMO chips (both are 32 pin PDIP):On the card: AM29F010-90PChttp://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/AdvancedMicroDevices/mXxzrq.pdfAnd on motherboard: SST29EE020http://www.ourchip.com/NZILIAO/chips/memory/29EE020.pdfThe motherboard using: GA-6BXChttp://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Products/Motherboard/Products_Spec.aspx?ProductID=1445The only slight difference I've had notice is that the card one had 1MB of memory and pin 30 is not used, while the other is 2MB of memory and does use pin 30. The BIOS awards, updated to the current beta version, and as well I think 1MB is enough room for the flashing (I hope).

Question by BIO Wolf   |  last reply


replacing a laptop hard drive? Answered

Hello boys and girls, this weekend my trusty laptop had failed on me.  After cursing up a storm and mashing every button possible i finally found the "restore" CDs of my laptop hd partion.  I got it restored to factory fresh and was ready to rock and roll when i get an error yesterday stating that "SMART" has detected iminate drive failure or some crap like that.  After searching i uploaded new firmware for the hd hopeing it would go away.  It didn't.  I ran a self test and it said bad Hard drive. My question is as follows.  How hard is it to replace a laptop hard drive (other than switching out drives), if I burn a copy of the restore CDs will it install windows on the new hard drive or do i have to send it to HP/ buy windows At this point i am not worried about loosing any data (done did that twice already) just want a computer that doesnt pop that error message everytime i reboot. My laptop is a Compaq Presario F700 and i had it for almost 3 yrs to the day

Question by thematthatter   |  last reply


[Requesting help] Need to dye a lens filter

Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on how I can take clear plastic and totally black it out I am trying to create a shaped bokeh effect in a uv filter for a more permanent setting than cut out paper (what most people do). Now I bought quite a few for different shapes or if I mess up. Last night I printed out on sticker paper a heart and placed it in the center of the filter and used Krylon fusion (spray paint for plastic) on the filter. It took quite a few coats to get it so light never shined through. When It looked good I peeled of the heart sticker and half the paint went with it. An obvious failure. What im trying now is, I took that filter and scratched it up a bit and I found some super glue and just thinly spread some across the lens (to hopefully give the paint something to grip to) let that sit over night it was too late to paint. And today I am now putting a few coats on it and i plan to actually cut the heart shape out of the filter.

Topic by Ampix0   |  last reply


What is the best way to power the separate sides of an optically isolated relay circuit? Answered

I am working on a Raspberry Pi based thermostat for my air conditioner and have come across a variety of pre-made relay boards that would allow me to interface with the 24v AC control circuits. Most of the boards I have found have optoisolators that separate the input side of the board from the relay side of the board. I assume this is to prevent damage to the GPIO pins in the event of a mechanical failure of one of the relays. These boards also have separate power inputs for the respective sides. I intend to use a bridge rectifier and voltage regulator so that I can power both the Raspberry Pi and relay board directly from the 24v AC line on the wall. My questions specifically is how I should isolate the power for both sides of the board. Do I need to have two separate bridge rectifiers and voltage regulators to essentially create two power buses or is there another acceptable way to protect the Raspberry Pi in the situation? Also, is the isolation even necessary in this situation? The circuit diagram for the relay board can be found at http://imgur.com/UiXmfKC. Thanks in advance for your advice.

Question by matthewsheffield   |  last reply


PC Crashes or reboots when almost any program I feel it's GPU?

Amd fx 8150 black edition XFX RADEON DOUBLE DISSIPATION 6870 VIDEO CARD corsair 750m PSU gigabyte ga-78lmt-s2 ultra durable 4 mobo 8 gb corsair  vengeance ram used rig I purchased all drivers upto date i know that mobo GPU TDP on this board is 95w and CPU calls for 125w bios underclocks CPU to 2.8 ghz I have OC'd and tested with out fail to 3.2 by multiplier I have OC'd GPU with AMD ccc a little but always maintained low temps case has excellent ventilation and a CPU COOLER    Recently  aprox 50 hrs of intense gameplay without fail a cpl games would cause reboot or black screen only to come back ok recently it has started these crashes ALOT won't even open browsers without crash will run CPU / mobo testing software (hotCPU) for hrs no errors found GPU STRESS TEST WILL NOT RUN  I have cleared CSMOS and reinstalled  GPU drivers and reset all to default no OC'Ing still crashes removed GPU no signs of overheat runs fine off onboard VGA please advise as to what may be failure or how to further test

Question by sean.collar   |  last reply


Semiconductor based switching with a different power source?

Lets say I want to switch on a circuit, that runs on one power source, with a different power source. I know this can be done easily with relays with the coil attached to one power source and the remaining pins to another power source. However, I want to know if something like this possible with electronic semiconductor based switches too. I am trying to make a USB based power outage detector for my computer that can help me in safely shutting down my computer automatically when I am not there to manually shut it down. A male-female USB extension cable of a very short length can be stripped and the red wire (+ve) can be split and connected to an electronically controlled switch which will remain closed as long as it receives current from an external power source say a wall adapter. As soon as the power fails, the switch is opened. A simple USB device like a flash-drive can then be connected to the female end of the cable and the male end of the cable to the computer. A simple C program will check at specific time intervals if the flash drive is accessible. As long as there is power, the program will be able to access the flash drive. As soon as there is a power failure, the program will no longer be able to access the flash drive and start the shut down process. Do have any suggestions?

Question by raftor   |  last reply


How to build a wireless switch to control a projector lift and electric projector screen!?

This is for a home theatre  setup. The projector is installed on a motorized lift that hangs in the ceiling. The screen is motorized. They are both 110v AC motors, and they both have seperate up / down leads to control the respective operation. The screen motor is 110v 0.7 amp and the projector lift is 110v 0.8 amp. The screen takes approx. 20 seconds to lower and has no apparent calibration to stop at any particular point (I would like the controller to be able to have this capability). The lift motor has a 'up' stop and a 'down' stop adjustment that cuts power on its own when it reachs these points so the controller just has to provide power for the length of time it takes the motor to get there which is about 12 seconds. Both devices have optional add-on hardware to make them infrared controllable but it costs approx $400 each to go that route. My hope is that I can control them with my universal remote along with having a manually controlled switch in case of remote failure. I want to build this as my first project for contribution to Instructables and the Home Theatre community. Is this do-able for less than $50? Please help. Thank you all for your help in advance.

Question by timmot   |  last reply


I am building a TV lift with (hopefully?!) RF and dpdt switch in parallel. But my wiring is not working as expected...?

I have the hard wired dpdt switch wired as attached and the relay as per the other attachment (but the incoming voltage to power the board and running through the relays to power the actuator are both 12v and from the same source). I am trying to have both a RF control and hard wired back up in the event of battery failure of controller or unit loss. Both items work fine when wired up to the actuator alone but when put in parallel there is a real issue with nothing happening. It seems like there is a open circuit which is drawing a large current from the transformer but not doing anything with it. I think it may have destroyed the relays on the board though - no, no fuse in the system less that on the transformer :-(  I just cannot see the problem but I have found another wiring diagram (also attached but with an actual board shown on it) where there seems to be a whole lot less wiring but  I dont know if this will achieve what I need to do. I do not want to destroy another relay board by experimenting so would be eternally grateful for a little advice. Can anyone assist, I am not an electronics expert but a mechanical engineer (could never get my mind around what I could not see!!)?  

Question by intrance   |  last reply


lead acid Q's? Answered

So me and papa have been working on farm equipment and an electric golf cart (and I had issues with my jeep cranking over, with a presumably bad battery), but my lack of knowledge of these batteries used in the machines is starting to get to me. Differentiating normal behavior from behavior indicating a bad battery or other problems is not really something I can do right now. What I know: Topped off voltage: 15 (ish) volts ( details?) Dead flat voltage: 10 volts Cold cranking amps: indication of maximum current a battery can deliver in the cold (details ?) Reserve minutes: equivalent to "AH" rating times conversion factor lead acids can take a beating and survive without a, less say, "exciting" failure mode What I don't know: How am I supposed to know what I don't know???? ;) What is a typical topped off voltage for a battery? Does the voltage sag from say 16V when charger is removed? What characteristics change as they age? I would guess increased leakage current/resistance, reduced current capability and reduced capacity (?) would you lose a bit of capacity real quick after cycling a deep cycle marine battery a few times? I know lithium ions do, every new phone I ever had has lost at least 10% of it's capacity in a few short months as it got "broken in." What about maximum charging current? Does ripple current matter?

Question by -max-   |  last reply