I see this kind of error fairly often. NOT DECLARED. This example is from the Arduino web sitehttp://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/MouseContinuousDrawing Is there some rule to follow to fix these errors?
Question by WWC | last reply
I am curious if there is any way to possibly fix NIMH batteries. I saw at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1RxhgFEPSM how a freezer fixes them, but it did not work. It would be great if somebody with dry ice and dead NIMH batteries would try freezing these batteries (safely).
Question by jbaker22 | last reply
I am planning on buying some classic consoles soon, (NES,SNES,SEGA Genesis,N64, etc) and I want to be able to play them on the kind of screen they were made for, a CRT. I have one that a friend gave me, but due to being moved a lot, and probably not gently, the picture has fallen out of alignment. Specifically it cuts off a large portion of the screen on the left, (leaving a thick space of black on the right) and is at a slight angle. It is not all that big of a shift, but it is a real pain in games with items in that section, because ammo counts, health bars, treasure chests, and even chunks of text can be hidden in that space. Could anyone tell me how to fix this issue? And how hard it is to do?
Topic by Damnation | last reply
I bought an 8GB HP memory stick a few months ago and it worked fine, but after installing a live operating system to it and re-formatting it, only 250MB will format. The rest will only show up in windows partition manager as unallocated space, and all the obvious options (create partitions or expand partitions) are greyed out. Any diea how to re-format it to get the full 8GB useable again?
Question by andy70707 | last reply
I have a 512mb flash drive mp3 player, made by hip street. a long time ago, i was working on a computer. i had just installed the usb ports, so i got the flash drive/mp3 player and plugged it in. a component fried on the motherboard, and windows said that the device malfunctioned. the computer still worked fine, as if nothing happened. alas, the flash drive/mp3 player didn't. it wouldn't connect to the pc. nothing looks fried on the mp3 player, so why wont it work? can it be fixed? i can almost get it to turn on, the power light will flash and then the battery just starts to get really hot. can someone please help? i really want the files off of it.
Question by zack247 | last reply
I have a samsung jet and this doesnot work on it it says Note: If your phone does not support JSR 135: Mobile Media MAPI After download the J2MEQRCode.jad, you only need to delete the line MIDlet-Push-1: mms://:www.drhu.org.QRCode, J2MEQRCodeMidlet, * before install in your mobile phone. but i cant seem to work that part out if anyone can please let me know Thanks http://www.getjar.com/mobile/5265/qr2dbarcode-for-samsung-gt-s8000-jet/
Question by nonamesleft | last reply
About 5 years ago when I built my first computer, I made a few mistakes, perhaps the one that is the most crippling is attempting to fit a D-link WiFi PCI card while the machine was plugged in. Caused the PC to shut down instantly after that characteristic pop. :O This has caused the card to die (I thought), and caused the PCI slots on the motherboard to die. Nothing is recognized on those 2 ports. I would like to know if my PCI-e slots are dead, but I do not have any PCI-e cards to test. :-( I accepted this as fact for the longest time. Out of curiosity, I decided to to investigate this further, and rebuilt a 10 year old computer that I was pretty sure has working PCI slots, so I plugged in a 56K modem and the questionable WiFi card, and ran the lspci command on linux, and saw the 56K modem, but not the D-link card. Great, so I've got dial up lol! Anyway, there was a huge low dropout 3.3V, 5A AIC1084-33PM voltage regulator that was easy to probe with a multimeter on the dead D-link card, and I suppose it takes 5V from the PCI port and regulates it to 3.297V measured. Too bad this isn't what had failed. That would have also been an easy fix if that all that was wrong. Now when I move both cards over to my Z77 rig, I notice that there is NO voltage measured across the output of the D link card and ground, indicating pontenially no power to the ports. My guess is that I killed an hair-thin internal trace on the mobo for the power rail, I think this should be an easy fix, if only I knew exactly which pin is what. I do not know the layout of a big PCI bus, or ATX power supply for that matter, and I certainly do NOT want to fry my new (but now old I guess) motherboard! I do however have a motherboard I can cross-reference for pinout. Anyway if I do figure out that the PCI-e slots do actually work, I would like to get a GPU into this rig for general performance improvements, so what <$100 graphics card is recommended?
Question by -max- | last reply
Hello all! Love this site. First time poster. I have a problem with my laptop cable. It stopped working--I had to maneuver it into all sorts of strange positions to get it to charge my laptop. It finally refused my attempts by not charging at all. So I did the least sensible thing possible and cut into it with wire cutters to see if it was a frayed cable that I could possibly just wrap with electrical tape. Because the adapter was real bendy, more bendy then usual. I thought something inside wasn't connecting right. So now I have a really messed up laptop cable. There seems to be only one wire that extends from the adapter into the cord. I kinda cut into that too by mistake. At the end of the adapter there is a metal knob type thing, I don't know what its for but it doesn't really look like it connects to the cable. Is it fixable? I have beginner soldering skills. I've looked at other laptop cord repair instructables, but I'm not even sure where to begin. Thanks for any help! -Gil
Topic by gregorsamsa | last reply
Hi, I have a wall-wart that is working but I'm having some problems with it. It coverts 220AC to 10VDC with 1,3A current. I've been using it mainly to power up 8cm PC fans. Recently I opened it up and saw that below the diodes,board has turned black and it seems fried, that can be from excessive heat generated by diodes, and part of the transformer that was facing this diodes is melted (as you can see in pictures). I think diodes are 1n4005. 1- my first questions is, why these diodes got this hot ? should I change them with diodes that can pass more current? I have RL205 will that work? 2- I've read somewhere that after rectifier bridge, if capacitor's capacity is high, it will put pressure on diodes and transformer, is this true ? or we can use any high capacitor we can find ? 3- Is there a law by which we figure out how high our capacitor should be after rectifier bridge in wall-warts ? for example If I had a wall-wart with 1000mF capacitor, can I change it to 2200mF ? 4- I am going to use this wall-wart to power up a 7805 regulator, so that I can feed a lithium-ion battery charger module (4056). This module uses 1A. should I put a high value capacitor like 470mF or more, at regulator's input, or is it unnecessary cause of my wall-wart having a high capacitor ? 5- Are they any ways that I can improve this wall-wart ? like if I keep the transformer cool ,when it;s under load ...maybe add another capacitor ... ?
Question by ehsan_zt | last reply
Recently my girlfriends laptop charger has gone and killed itself and i told her i was able to fix it but when she gave it to me and told me about it, i realized that it wasnt going to be a simple cut and patch job. Now I'm assuming the problem is where i depicted it in the picture since she told me she had to do the whole "move it in the right spot for it to charge" thing. However i'm not sure if i would be able to just cut part of the middle out and then patch it back together since there is not that much room. Anyways to the question at hand... What would be the best way to go about fixing this part of the laptop charger ?
Question by jbeadia | last reply
I've started getting system service exceptions, and have linked the cause to the RAM, which has shown around 10 errors when tested, mainly that certain pairs do not store data accurately, on at least one of the sticks. I need to ascertain the cause of these errors to see if the warranty covers it. Would it be possible to get or write a program to keep writing to the defective locations, to prevent important applications using the space?
Topic by The Skinnerz | last reply
I had bought a pair of earphone called the Blitz from Claires. Well one day i got up from my computer and the wire ripped in half. i tried winding the wires together but that didn't help. What am i to do. I know i can get them fixed but i want to know how i can. These earphones i have are extremely fashionable and i can't throw them out. If you are good with this, please help.
Question by tabbymarii | last reply
Ok guys... I really need some help, I know there are some motor-heads around here on the forum, I really need some help from people on here with metal working/motorcycle/general small engine knowledge!!! See umm... yesterday, yeah well look at the pictures.. and trust me, my body is almost as mangled as the bike in the picture. I don't stop for NO ONE though, I want to fix this as my dad is pretty pissed about it (this weekend is father's day and he was looking forward to taking it out for a drive). Not only that.. MY BIKE IS TOTALED F?CK! I've done some googling and I can order some parts from the baja powersports website, as they have a parts catalog and even pictures to go with each part they sell, the weird thing is that they have like ALL the parts I could ever replace on the bike... except the front suspension.. like seriously everything under the kitchen sink EXCEPT any major front end parts (like said suspension)... Anyways guys, can someone PLEASE help me out here? I called a number on the baja powersports website and the guy said they don't directly deal with parts (even though it said it was a Canadian toll free parts number) and he asked for my postal code and found the closest "shop" next to me which is about a 30 min drive from here but oh well, I need the parts! Anyways look at the damage, it's pretty screwed up as you can see in the picture. But I want to know if maybe I can errr "bandage" it up a bit until I get said parts. The rim is kinda bent too... but I think it'll still roll forwards, I have the front end back together, my the left side sheered right off the bike and that part of the suspension will have to be replaced aswell.. Long post I know, but I'm a bloody hurting unit today, and my dad is very pissed off with me, this is a BRAND NEW bike guys! Surely someone can help me figure something? UPDATE>: After playing some phone tag and talking to A LOT OF PEOPLE over the phone, I'm getting like $500 worth of bike parts shipped to me within one business week, RIGHT TO MY DOOR! I'll tell you now when I hung up the phone with the guy, I nearly jumped through the ceiling, it's all gonna be covered under warrenty, even the shipping!!!!! I told the guy I'll be thanking him until next year! So all in all, my knee is still buggered up, but I'm a lot happier knowing that my 2 month old bike isn't a COMPLETE write-off! Thanks for the help anyways guys.... oh wait what am I saying, thanks for the criticism! But all in all, thanks for being by my side to laugh at my foolish mistakes fellow instructables members... I hope that everyone that reads this topic will see this and learn to be more responsible when driving ANY motorized vehicle!
Topic by Punkguyta | last reply
I have 2 flip cell phones.(motorola and sony ericcson). i dropped both of them and now the display will light up as usual; however i cannot read or see anything but a blank lit up display. is there anyway to fix the inside display on cell phones?
Question by johnshericosmo
As you can see from the image, I accidentally ripped off a copper pad on my PCB. This is my first time really soldering anything, so I somewhat expected it, but still... Is there any way to fix it? I can't really seem to find too many solutions.
Topic by The Manic Puppeteer | last reply
So I just got a new TV for Christmas (yay me), but the remote is fubar'd. If the remote and receiver are offset by more than a few degrees, it stops working. It's working far worse than a normal TV/remote does. It's a normal IR remote. Any ideas of how to fix it? Thanks!
Question by dedgerton | last reply
I am looking for a way to fix an Access file when open it advises caused a serious error the last time it was opened and then get the file needs repaired or isn't a database file office locks up when trying to repair. I believe the that when copying the file to a jump drive for back up it did not release the record locking information when complete and pulled the jump drive from the computer.
Question by PaulMcDona | last reply
I'd like to change the 2db antenna that is fixed on my Netgear WGR613V with a bigger one to improve wifi range. 1) I'd like to know if if's possible and what connector I should choose to solder. I understand there are SMA, TNC, etc...? I made the mistake of buying a NEWLink 7dBi Omni Directional Reverse SMA Antenna and I don't know if I'll be able to use it. thks in advance Cheers. G
Question by Gaetan321 | last reply
Last year I bought a 5mw eBay laser (green 532nm wavelength) and it had an adjustable focus. I scratched the lens and it never focus right so I took the lens off. Now I am interested in fixing it again and I don't know how to get/make/buy/obtain a new lens for the laser. It always said it was 5mw but I think it was more powerful because it could burn through bags, light leaves on fire, pop balloons, light matches at 6 inches. This is what the laser looked like. http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Power-Military-Adjustable-Focus-Green-Laser-Pointer-Pen-5mw-Silver-/281269467436?pt=US_Laser_Pointers&hash;=item417cf7792c
Question by waterrocketexpert | last reply
My brother who has no electronics history bought a theremin kit from an Australian electronics store called jay car and or course it didn't work when he finished it, sp he gave it to me but in the electronics department i can only build kits with all the instructions there for me i dont know how to fix a problem with one. I have a multimeter here but im still completely not sure how to use it to find out whats wrong with the kit, it sounds dumb but i could post a picture of it but im pretty scure that would be pointless cos you wouldn't be able to see the components values. Can anyone give me some help in trying to figure out how to fix it cos i dont want to have to rebuy it and built it for him
Topic by craig3 | last reply
Hello I hope that all of you are fine. I recently bought a second hand HP Pavilion laptop from eBay… when I received it I came to know that there was a problem with the wifi reception… I intended it to repair myself… so I unscrewed the LCD and came to know that the connections for the wifi were broken, so I soldered them, while doing so small bead of molten soldering wore fell on the LCD, but only damaged the plastic protection and found no dead pixels when it was turned on after fixing it… the windows started up pretty good… got the wifi signals as well but after a minute or so… one or two pixel size dots appeared on the LCD and after that the blue screen appeared… I tried to restart the laptop again but the blue screen appeared every time restarted it. I tired to restore the laptop, fix the startup, also tried to run the safe mode, but everything was useless as I got blue screen every time… the laptop manages to operate in safemode with command prompt only once and as I tried to restore the system the blue screen appeared again… further more it sometimes gets past the windows loading in the widows repair section but when it loads the resolution changes and I get a blue screen again… it also hanged while repairing setup for the windows was operating... So a lot of different hang ups… but 99% of the time I got blue screen on all the options available… I am attaching the blue screen that I usually get… it would be so nice of you if you could guide me and help me fix my computer. Please see the attached pic Kind Regards Raishikoh
Question by raishikoh | last reply
Built this circuit (see attachment) using 2 solar cells putting out about 5.5-6v (got crap meter atm) . 4 xAA 1.2v 2450mAh NiMH Duracell Rechargeable battery's. Found that its drawing charge from my Android phone quite rapidly. Will another diode before usb fix the problem and block current out of device? Or a 5v regulator in place?..... Although i read they need at least 7v to work or they will drop overall power? or am i just talking gibberish here and need a slap?! lol! some help would be much appreciated! Incase of attachment failure or watever....Link: http://neotoy.tripod.com/archive/2009/youtube/circuit-diagram.pdf
Question by scott_shot | last reply
So i was playing Skate 2 when I had to go into my kitchen and put away some things. I came back, but forgot I put the controller under the gaming chair when I got up, so I sat, and the chair rolled right over the controller. I looked at it and the left joystick was half out. I pushed it back in and it was weird. It wasn't always in the middle. It would stay up, or left, or upper left, lower right, etc. I pulled the rubber part off and realized that the rod connected to the controller had to go in a slot in the rubber part. But considering the outside of the rubber part have to go INSIDE the controller, and it's hard to do. I tried unscrewing the bottom, but idk what kind of screw it is. I NEED HELP!
Question by Flumpkins | last reply
Have been using my FolgerTech Prusa i3 printer for a few weeks now, and was doing some cable management when, "Pop!" goes the power supply. I had the mains power unplugged from the power supply, and didn't connect or disconnect any other wires. I was working on hiding some endstop cables (That i will probably just go ahead and shorten later) and when i was satisfied with the job, i went ahead and plugged the printer back in. Pop! Immediately unplugged the printer to prevent further harm. Sounded as if a .22 went off in my room. No burning or acidic smell, just a pop. From the sound of it, i assumed it had to be the power supply. So i examined everything, the ramps boards, the arduino, etc. Nothing. Everything looks fine. I remove the power supply from the printer, and plug it back in. LED light stays off, no more sounds. Using my multimeter, i checked the output voltage, and sure enough, it's dead. So i go ahead and crack the power supply open, and begin examining the components. Nothing. Absolutely nothing. All the caps look fine, no charred marks, no scorches or burns. No component looks any different than its functional counterpart. Beyond the cheap chinese soldering job, the board looks fine. So i take the board off of the metal plate to examine the backside. Solder splatter everywhere, but no shorts or anything (It worked for about 3 weeks.). I do, however, notice that there is a nice dry joint on one of the large capacitors. Thinking that might be the problem, i go ahead and fix the joint by reflowing the solder. Put it back in its case, plug it in, nothing. Anyone have any idea what may have happened? I am a student who currently doesn't have 30$ to fork out for another power supply, but do have an arsenal of spare electronic components. (Will eventually buy another power supply, but currently don't have money to set aside for it.) What should i look for? What blew up? Why does it not work anymore? If any more info is needed, let me know!
Topic by RocketPenguin | last reply
I have a sony Viao Laptop,At the bottom of the case the model number is PCG-7G2L. My K key broke and i ordered a new one but no instructions came with. I looked on sony website but no luck. Can anyone HELP me take apart my latoptop and get the keyboard out to replace the key.. thanks so mush in advance........DAN?
Question by danthomas28 | last reply
Question by Turtlepwr | last reply
Im a n00b, bought a red ringed 360 from a friend for cheap.
While the camera is physically fine, the LCD of the Kodak M753 is showing black / white and is unusable. The glass isn't cracked, and still takes pics perfectly, too. Was quoted Â£100 UKP for the repair in a camera shop, but would rather fix it myself, as replacement LCD screens are readily (and cheaply) available - but I would like to know more before attacking the Kodak M753 with a screwdriver! Can someone please point me in the right direction? Thanks for reading!
Question by Coz_UK | last reply
I have a samsung "rugby" flip phone which is less that 4 months old. in going for a walk, i dropped it leaving the magnetic tape/ribbon (i believe i'm using the correct term(s) here) torn apart. is there a way that i can connect the ribbon or put the ribbon back together to make my display work again and if so, what kind of materials would i need to get this project done
Question by johnshericosmo | last reply
I recently bought a digital lcd data projector from garage sale , i saw the projected image before buying and was happy with it , but alas once getting it home and setting it up the image now has a blue tint it. the projector model is, Sony VPL-351QM lcd data projector . i think it was made in about 1994 , and it weighs about 25 kgs, to be honest when i saw it i thought it was some sort of old digital cinema projector, like they use for the Ad's before a film. any help would be much appreciated.
Question by jesusofnazereth | last reply
I've got to fix this damn zune, there's no warrenty on it and all in all it's a piece of crap. The guy doesn't care that much if it can't be fixed. I've got shit webcam reference pictures. You'll see that the battery has the terminals connected to a small IC board with 3 solder pads on it, and a voltage regulator of some sort on the bottomside of it. The ribbon cable has 3 little metal spades that solder to those pads on the battery. There's voltage coming out of the pads (I don't have a voltmeter, just a tongue but that works just as good). When I've got the ribbon cable soldered to the battery and I touch the end of it to my tongue I can feel current, so why is it that only once in a while I get power to the zune? Like if I wiggle the cable around sometimes I can get a low battery symbol to come up and then it shuts off. I don't know why it's still showing a low batt symbol because I charged it and it feels like there's a good charge in there so what's the problem? I wanna get this fixed so I can play around with it, no I've never had the pleasure of a zune :p. Thanks guys for anything you can help me with. I was thinking maybe the IC came loose from soldering/desoldering the cable a few times, but it still appears to be stuck on the board pretty good. Well look at the pictures and decide for yourself. It's starting to look like I'll be buying a new battery, which apparently the ipod 30/60 gig batteries are the same size/amperage and can be used in the zune and at a low price of $14, I can probably get a battery that'll last longer than the factory one eh?
Topic by Punkguyta | last reply
I have a small Homeland Security system monitor (model number 01875) that I accidentally powered with backwards polarity. Now it doesn't turn on. How can I fix it?
Question by Ethanal | last reply
Hey guys, all of my original xbox controllers have decided to quit on me, there doesn't seem to be any damage on them on the outside, i think it mighgt have something to do with the cords. Does anyone know what's wrong and how i could fix it? Thanks.
Question by LiquidLightning | last reply
Someone gave me an amp, potentiometer is busted. im not in a position to order a new one, and i really dont care to. id like to wire this up with resistors instead so that it reads full open all the time. the pot is for a car amp im just going to use my input source to control the volume anyways. schematic or detailed instructions would be lovely. thanks guys.
Question by cdb816 | last reply
Hello, my computer flipped sideways so now everything is side ways, evan the mouse is "sideways" Please help me quick (my dad will freak out) pic included shows what it looks like THanks!
Question by Emsaid | last reply
Question by builderkidj | last reply