New here, first time posting. I want to add to the arduino insect bot

Well I am new here and this is my first post Well I have build the arduino insect bot from the book Arduino bots and gadgets. It is in the picture. I have it working but I want to add a touch sensor and attach it to the shell. I have an idea on how to build it. I would use a small button attached to the shell with the lie going to analog A0 pin. This would stop the robot by centering the servos and giving it the ability to stop when the shell was pressed down. Now the program is here. #include Servo frontServo; Servo rearServo; int centerPos = 90; int frontRightUp = 72; int frontLeftUp = 108; int backRightForward = 75; int backLeftForward = 105; int walkSpeed = 150; // how long to wait between steps int centerTurnPos = 81; int frontTurnRightUp = 63; int frontTurnLeftUp = 117; int backTurnRightForward = 66; int backTurnLeftForward = 96; // Ping Distance Measure int pingPin = 4; long int duration, distanceInches; long distanceFront=0; //cm int startAvoidanceDistance=20; //cm long microsecondsToInches(long microseconds) {   return microseconds / 74 / 2; } long microsecondsToCentimeters(long microseconds) {   return microseconds / 29 / 2; } long distanceCm(){   pinMode(pingPin, OUTPUT);   digitalWrite(pingPin, LOW);   delayMicroseconds(2);   digitalWrite(pingPin, HIGH);   delayMicroseconds(5);   digitalWrite(pingPin, LOW);     pinMode(pingPin, INPUT);   duration = pulseIn(pingPin, HIGH);     distanceInches = microsecondsToInches(duration);   return microsecondsToCentimeters(duration); } void center() {   frontServo.write(centerPos);   rearServo.write(centerPos); } void moveForward() {   frontServo.write(frontRightUp);   rearServo.write(backLeftForward);   delay(125);   frontServo.write(centerPos);   rearServo.write(centerPos);   delay(65);     frontServo.write(frontLeftUp);   rearServo.write(backRightForward);   delay(125);     frontServo.write(centerPos);   rearServo.write(centerPos);   delay(65); } void moveBackRight() {   frontServo.write(frontRightUp);   rearServo.write(backRightForward-6);   delay(125);   frontServo.write(centerPos);   rearServo.write(centerPos-6);   delay(65);   frontServo.write(frontLeftUp+9);   rearServo.write(backLeftForward-6);   delay(125);     frontServo.write(centerPos);   rearServo.write(centerPos);   delay(65); } void moveTurnLeft() {   frontServo.write(frontTurnRightUp);   rearServo.write(backTurnLeftForward);   delay(125);   frontServo.write(centerPos);   rearServo.write(centerPos-6);   delay(65);   frontServo.write(frontLeftUp-+9);   rearServo.write(backLeftForward-6);   delay(125);     frontServo.write(centerTurnPos);   rearServo.write(centerTurnPos);   delay(65); } void setup() {   frontServo.attach(2);   rearServo.attach(3);   pinMode(pingPin, OUTPUT); } void loop() {   distanceFront=distanceCm();     if(distanceFront > 1){       if (distanceFront         for(int i=0; i<=8; i++) {         moveBackRight();         delay(walkSpeed);       }             for(int i=0; i<10; i++){         moveTurnLeft();         delay(walkSpeed);       }      } else {        moveForward();        delay(walkSpeed);      }     } } I would like to know what line of code to add to receive input from pin AO and center the servo stopping the robot.

Topic by DHTArduinoNerd   |  last reply


micro electronics

Basic of this post is where e to buy micro size electronics for micro flying drones which are insect size? I asked arduino and raspberry pi, no answer yet.  in this post : https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Ornithopter-Micro-UAV-Drone/     there is electromotor which OP claim that was used also by inventor of little flying drone...regarding arduino uno board i am not sure that was really used by inventor, please see pictures and videos on youtube....so if someone knows please post where to buy such micro size electronics. Thank you  

Topic by ruma29   |  last reply


Automatic Insect Painting/Gluing Device for Scientists? Answered

Scientists studying small insects need ways to assign a unique ID to each bug. Two of the most common methods they use are A) manually painting small color patterns onto the thorax (and sometimes head and abdomen) of the insect, and B) gluing a small tag(number, qr code, RFID chip) to the thorax. These techniques are very effective, but SUPER TIME CONSUMING. It can take a trained student about 5 minutes to paint each ant or bee (and they need to paint thousands). I want to help them out by decreasing the amount of man power needed to give a unique ID to each insect. My thoughts were to make a device where an insect could walk into a tube of designated size (exact bee space at the entrance of a bee hive for instance), have its presence sensed, maybe prevent it's forward or backward motion for a short while,  and have a device that attaches a tag or paints a unique pattern onto the insect. You can see some of my initial thoughts in the scanned picture below. HIGH RES HERE My question is about good places to start in building this contraption, or if anyone has good or simple . The thresholds are quite small for the insects (bees are maybe 1/8-1/4 inch wide), and we need to be exact where we attach the tag so as not to hurt the poor critters or alter their behavior. I am handy with an arduino and simple servos and can incorporate computer vision from an android phone into the mix with the ADK First elaborate or super cool response gets gifted a 3 month pro membership! (that lovely ant pic used as an example is by amazing photographer Alex Wild, the other is when you google "honeybee RFID")

Question by blorgggg   |  last reply


how does a monarch butterfly chrysalis have gold dots on it? Answered

It looks metallic but I cant see how an insect could produce it?

Question by pleb   |  last reply


Programmers can you help me?

Programmer for an art project? I can give you an excellent opportunity to learn some things about insect detectors, and to challenge your creativity! I need a some help from a programmer/ technical person for my art project (immediately)- Short about the project: The Project is planned for the end exam exhibition at the Gerrit Rietveld Academie, June/ July 2008, but might also be shown at later occasions. The work is an installation with video projections, machines and live insects. A box is located on the top of a pedestal. The box contains crane flies, which will be seen through a small window. The crane fly's movements are intercepted by sensors which translates the movements to commands for a machine. The walls in the room are covered by video projections. By means of wires, the machine can move around in the whole room. Technically what I need is: Through an actometer (insect movement detector) the electric impulses created by the movement of the insects, can be viewed in a software on a computer. What i need to do is to use the graph of movements in the software to send output commands to a machine (made by me, controlled by Remote controlls). I am not sure of how this can be done in the best way possible, but I have some suggestions which I can explain more precisely later on. I am looking for someone who have knowledge in terms of programming, and could be able to come up with a good solution, as well as maybe collaborating/ helping me out with my project. Please let me know if you are interested, know someone or know where I should go to meet the right people here in amsterdam. All answers are appreciated! Thank you in advance Andrea

Topic by andamiranda   |  last reply


dose spark will produce through tesla coil using 6v DC battery?

Dose spark will produce through tesla coil using 6v DC battery..............if possible can we use it as insect killer???

Question by rachit59   |  last reply


To use a monocular as a telephoto lens, on my cool pix, do I use both lenses or just the objective ?

I want to get some shots of both, the local birds and insects.  Can I use a monocular mounted on my cool pix for that and, do I just use the objective lens?

Question by Hubiewan   |  last reply


How do you make a kodak tazer with less zap?

I've read a few of the kodak tazer instructables, but none of them tell you how to suppress the voltage output (other than putting in a half-dead battery). But is there any way to suppress the zap? Cut it in half maybe? My history teacher is always wishing that tazer's were legal in school's, but this also looks very interesting, I wouldn't mind using it as a prank, but again, with less umff...

Question by Insect   |  last reply


Salvage the light barriers of an old mouse to use it as a lightbarrier eg on the left mousebutton ?

Is it possible to salvage the light barriers of an old mouse to use it as a lightbarrier eg on the left mousebutton ? It would be interesting for counting small insects! ANTS! In old ball-driven mouses there are two small "light barriers". They are interrupted by punched discs. Is it possible th wire the receiver of the barrier to substitute a regular mouse button? It would be wonderful having two lightbarriers on one USB/PS2 port! Thank you! PeerTeer teerpeer@web.de

Question by peerteer 


Does anyone still use 35MM film?

Does anyone still use 35mm film, or is it dead? I find shooting with film is enjoyable. I was out today photographing what insects i could find with my 35MM SLRs. I used both a Minolta MAXXUM SPxi and a Canon EOS Rebel G, both with 80MM lenses. Used 400 speed film. Coencidentaly, while looking through a local bookstore today, i found a copy of "pocket guide to 35MM photography" By kodak for 50 cents.

Topic by ScubaSteve   |  last reply


How do you fix an LCD monitor that appears to be fine when you turn it on but then turns black after about ten seconds?

The monitor shows picture when you first turn it on, but their is a weird buzzing sound in the back. After a few seconds the screen goes black and the sound goes away, but the green light stays on. It may be the backlight, but I have not been able to take the cover off (unscrewed all the screws but the case will not come apart, neither does the base come off). Any advice ("good advice") would be helpful. Monitor: HP L1706

Question by Insect   |  last reply


what else can you float on SF6 other than foil boat and balloons? also how long will SF6 in a tank keep something afloat

I am basically trying to figure out other things to float in a tank of SF6 ( or better, heavier gas?) Right now I have dandelion seeds, hair, insects in mind. Do you think these will float?  also If i ended up using a foil boat, how long will SF6 keep this boat afloat? what if i seal up the fish tank really good, will the boat be afloat forever? Please let me know! thank you !

Question by haoishao   |  last reply


(More) Fictitious Planet Details.

          You may have seen my last question (I'm not counting on it), but if you haven't, I should tell you that I am creating a planet that can support life. I am creating an insect-like creature that flies and swims via silent propulsion. Could an animal develop a method of that propulsion? I am thinking of a couple of methods in particular. It could be MHD- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetohydrodynamic_drive It could be like the Dyson fan-http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/gadgets/home/dyson-bladeless-fan.htm  I have added my sketch and a scale of the animals, as well as additional information about their behavior. I may have some terms wrong (Like hive-mind), so if I do, please .tell me so I can correct that.

Question by eulaliaaaa!   |  last reply


outdoor pc box

I have a big outdoor plastic closet with shelfs in my garden. i want to place a pc with crt screen inside heating the space in which the pc and screen are to be located is 1/4 m3 (1 m wide x 1/2 m deep x 1/2 m height between the shelfs) or 1/2 m3 (1 m height) but with other objects sharing the space the computer is a pentium 1 (~40 W power). it is intended to be on for long periods with the door closed. the closet stands in a shaded place but air temperature outside can get to 35 C + sometimes. i dont want to cut vent holes in the closet the monitor (15 crt) is off when the door is closed. though i may switch it off and close the door while it is still hot how to prevent overheating ? is a water tank thermostat set to 45 C in the air near the pc (with the 240 V to the pc going thru it) good enough thermal protection ? insects we have lots of ants. how to protect the pc from them ? will the hot air in the closet be enough to distract them ?

Topic by 11010010110   |  last reply


What items at an Ontario dollar store will get me 2 or even more SPDT switches? Answered

I'm working on a simple BEAM style robot to entertain my kittens and keep them from attacking each other, so after I have demolished a combo dvd/vhs player to which we had lost the remote (recycled for a reason) I found all needed motors (2 similar voltages) but am still lacking the sensors to give it enough 'brains' to navigate around the kitchen and not get cornered. If anyone has seen an item in the buck or 2, dollar giant, etc, stores that contains 2 or more SPDT switches (If its a dollar, i wouldn't expect greatest of quality) or any other nifty gadgets (bright led's, small voltage motors, etc), it would be a great hint for other bug-bot builders on a budget. I am out to search for such a device, even if I find SOMETHING thats useful in store before I receive an answer, I might just answer my own query as I'm sure someone out there has pondered the same stump, you all know you are a cheap recycling opportunist and instructabl-er at heart.

Question by fightthemachine   |  last reply


Creating Database

Hi All, To be honest, I don't know if my inquiry fits within this forum, but I really had no idea where to post what I need. I am currently interning at a non-profit nature center which relies heavily on volunteers. As art of my internship, my supervisor would like several databases created. I don't know what program would work best for my needs and I was hoping somebody could give me a few ideas for what I need to create. Here is what she would like: 1. A volunteer database that is searchable by the training and expertise each volunteer has received. Let's say for instance, that we are having an insect program and only those who have been trained for the program can volunteer. I need to be able to search a keyword or from a drop down menu individuals who have received this training. A spreadsheet would suffice, but some individuals have so many training sessions that it would get a bit long. We also have over a hundred volunteers. 2. A teacher database that shows the grades and classes each teacher in our system teaches. We have school groups come out, and if their is a fourth grade program, there is no reason to contact every other grade teacher. 3. This is the really challenging one. We have rental programs, and all users must complete rental information which includes name, contact information, type of rental, and emergency contact. I would like to go paperless with this and if somebody rents more than once they have to fill in the information every time. I would like to be able to search their name and have all of their information come up, then input their rental type and time, which would give me a list of how many rentals we have had per day/week/year and how much money we have made. As I said, I could just make a spreadsheet for the first two but I would like something a bit more sophisticated. If I was not clear about anything, please let me know.

Topic by Blinktwice   |  last reply


Options to improve cooling and reduce consumption for portable coolers

I recently had to start learning how to service airconditioners on the fast and that learning got me thinking about my portable coolers.... Some of us like to go camping or on longer fishing trips, so there might be one of those 3-way fridges in use or a better cmpressor model. The one thing they all have in common is that they can only cool down to a difference in ambient temperatures. No matter which way we turn it the cooling produces heat and that needs to get away somehow. The other big thing is the cooling cycling - or the lack of it on a warm day. After some reading and thinking I came up with some ideas that might be applicable to your existing cooler if you are willing to mess around a bit. Let's start with the produced heat, shall we? Down here in Australia most people either have the fridge in their4WD or camper. In a car or small camper trailer there is often the problem of airflow, so the cooler might be doing overtime for no other reason than a lack of airflow. If you check online sites like Amozon and Ebay you quickly find fan systems meant to be installed inside the cooler to get lower temperatures and a quicker cooling of fresh goods. The thing is that the box is quite well insulated and the benefit of the airflow goes only as far as it can reach. And even if the box is quite empty and you would have a benefit of the cold air moving around it won't change the fact that "improved" cooling always comes with more heat in this case. But if we use one of these fan systems to actually improve the airflow on the hot side we not only get better cooling but also a reduce power consumption - something worth considering if you have no backup power generator.... This of course brings us to placement. As I have done the mistake myself you might be tempted to put a 3way cooler onto your seat. Opening it with the back free means the lid always gets stuck on the seat, do it the other way around and you block the airflow. If you do put it on the seat then make sure two things match: 1. The thing is secured properly. 2. The airflow from your aircon is able to reach the hot side of the cooler. Even permanent installations in a camper benefit from a good airflow. Often the fridge or freezer is built into some sort of bench and the airflow behind might be very limited. A simple solution here is to add a vent on top of the bench to allow the hot air to escape. A better one is to use a fan that is powered together with the heating element or compressor and drives the hot air to the outside. How to improve the cold side of the box or fridge? Well, to be honest there is not much that can be done unless you are prepared for some serious work. Depending on compartment size, contents and how full it is a little fan can help to keep the temperatures even but it won't help to get it cooler or reduce the cycling periods for the cooling. The only really working way that I found is to use a "battery" for the storage of the cold. The cooling works by checking the inside temp of the box and if above the set temp the cooling won't stop. This is all well and good while we have a constant supply of power but once we are on batteries it would be great to keep the active time to a minimum. A working solution is to build a container that fits around the cooling element. Smaller types often use an aluminium heatsink, bigger types might come with a compressor and an evaporator. In either case proper sealing is important! Most good models are fully waterproof, meaning even if you would fill them with water they would not leak in other areas than the door. But double check and if in doubt use a bit of silicone to make sure. Ok, but how do we "store" the cold coming from the device? Cold packs ;) These things contain a ready to use mix that holds cold temperatures quite well. Another really good alternative is alcohol or radiator coolant, although the last has limited capabilites in terms of holding capaity for the cold as it is desinged to exchange heat fast rather than to keep it. With a suitable sized and sealed box around the active cooling element we will need longer to actually see any cooling happen (with a warm "battery") but that can be compensated for by good planning or a frozen water bottle. If the cooling element is covered with a box of cooling gel then it has to cool this first before anything happens inside the box. But once it does the pack is already far below the normal temp it would have during normal operation. Remember the inside of the cold pack cools down first before the outside will get cold ;) So once the set temperature is reached the device will shut off. But since the cold pack is far below the set temp it will continue to cool our box until the core is warmer than the set temp. Quick thinkers will now say the benefit is lost as the time required to cool the "battery" down again is much longer than the normal cycle time - and they would be correct. But as we get much colder temps inside the gel box the overall running will still be less compared to normal operation. And since from the second cycle on the gel is only warming up to operating temp of the box it will be much faster than with a warm box. Another benefit might be the ease of cleaning and ice removal. Some peltier driven coolers have big cooling fins or a quite bad design for the heatsink allowing mould to grow where you can't remove it easy. If the box is made from stainless steel and flush with the back wall of the box we won't have that problem anymore. Ok, but how much is good or too much for the size and gel content? You got me there as it is bit tricky. You don't want to loose much usable space for starters and you don't want to wait hours for the gel to cool down if the box was not used. IMHO the size should fit the cooling element with about 20% to spare all around. If stainless steel is not an option than aluminium is the next best choice. Thin sheets can either be be cold formed with a hammer or "brazed" with a good torch and the right rods. Ok, before that route is there anything I should consider or do first? Depends ;) 3-way systems usually use a flame or heating elements to heat an ammoia solution. After years of neglect corrosion can form and reduce the amount of heat transfered into the system and reducing the efficiency this way. It might help to take the heating elements out once a year or so to clean them and the contact areas from any corrosion or dirt build up. With a fixed shedule for this you won't have the problem of never noticing a badly corroded heating element either - and this is the main failure on these systems.... Modifying your camper or making a few mods to your 4WD drawer system is not for the faint of heart and should be done with consideration. The last thing you want to do is rush things to find out it was not necessary. Before cutting holes check if you can't find the room for the fan in a different spot and use ducts to control the airflow - sometimes it is easier to blow air in than to get air out ;) When it comes to creating vents or connections for air to the outside always make sure it is waterproof and insect safe! If you can let the outlet go downwards so water won't run in, for 4WD trailers consider a flap to prevent water from going during a river crossing. Flyscreens will not only prevent insects from coming in but on the inside also prevent dust to go eerywhere - allow to the removal and cleaning! The salts used in these cold packs can be corrosive, so you have to make sure there are no leaks and that there is no steel to come into contact with gel - this includes screw ends hidden in through-holes. If in doubt use a coat of paint but keep it as thin as possible. Even on peltier systems it might be impossible to remove the heatsink without massive surgery on the internals. So before you take it all apart to gain access check if it is far easier to seal around the box opening and possible screw connections using silicone. The cooling battery can be screwed on and sealed with silicone as well as an easy escape route. Although for this to work you need to check if the material of the box allows for a proper bond with the silicone! Some materials just won't allow anything to stick at all, even after sanding them. So do a test first in an area where you would be able to cut the silicone away without causing damage. If you can rip or peel it off the surface you should not try to use a cooling battery screwed to the wall, only use a box that is fully sealed with the cooling element and has a seperate back - one complete unit around the cooling element. I have a 3-way system with a freezer compartment that does the cooling for the fridge too - what can I do? These units either provide good freezing with the fridge temps too low or good fridge cooling with no freezing capabilites - depending on the thermostat used. Our problem is that is next to impossible to add a cooling battery of the normal kind to these systems. The L-shaped freezer box can really only be added with a L-shaped cooling battery from underneath. Only if you don't need any freezing at all you could add a cooling battery to fit into the freezer box shape. In either case the benefit is somehow limited by the way the thermostat is used. If there is no temp control for freezing it should be fine. Warnings... Only peltier driven coolers are free from refrigerants. Every 3-way or compressor system uses refrigerant as evident by more or less piping and heating elements. Never attempt to screw anything into a cooling element containing refrigerant! Even if you think between the channels all will be fine it won't be! The material is just pressed to form the channels and any damage caould mean refrigerant leaking out! Use silicone instead and make sure all surfaces are properly cleaned before applying it, also wait until the silicone is really fully cured before putting any stress on it. As said, these cooling gels can be corrosive, especially if DC voltage is involved. Make sure that everything that is not aluminum or plastic is properly sealed before allowing ongoing contact with cooling gels. Do not attempt any of this if you have to ask yourself what tools you might need or how make a suitable container for the gel. If in doubt check Google on how to work with aluminium or stainless steel if there are not enough Instructables for it. The gel will expand a little bit if it freezes, this no problem in a metal container if you allow for a bit of flex or on the side added strength  - whatever suits you better. Another option is to get a few different cold packs (by the active ingredient) and to do a check in a little container. Freeze it and note whe level cold and warm. Little to no difference means nothing to worry in terms of expansion during freezing.

Topic by Downunder35m