Hi, i'm working on a project, and i need a high range transmitter to send a signal to a receiver from a distance of at least 1 mile (1.6 Km) is it possible ? Thanks :)
Question by fox.sadik | last reply
Can anyone recommend a good instructable to boost the reception range for my computer's wifi device? I know there are tons of them on here already, I just need to know which ones might have the longest range. Another thing is what design would be best. The kind involving a parabolic dish/mesh to direct signals to a usb dongle. One that is more of an omni direction antenna. One that makes use of one of the old sattelite tv dishes sitting in the garage. Requesting advice, comrades.
Topic by Kozar | last reply
I have an idea for a nightlight for kids or even adults in the hallway or something. But I am running into a problem. The main housing for this light is going to be pretty small. I was first planing on running this off a household electrical plug and that would work best. But I would not know quite how to step down the power from the wall to only run 2-3 led lights. I am sure I could get some sort of small circuit board that would drop the current. However because of the small housing I doubt I could fit that in there. I know I am not giving a whole lot of details but I do not want to give away my idea quite yet. What I am wondering is how long would say 1 AA battery run 3 LED lights? I am thinking this idea is not going to work out because people are not going to want to have to replace there battery every week or even more. So if anyone has some input on this idea then please let me know. The housing I think I would have to work with would be something like a pipe that is maybe 1 inch across the opening by about 2 -3 inches long. So nut much room to work with at all. I await your replies.
Topic by jcaresheets | last reply
The last few weeks I've been helping my colleague sell some items before he retires. Yesterday he gave me this as a thank you.This tiny film camera is from the 1930's, its a great example of early plastics (Bakelite). At the time they came in 7 different colours, its just like the iPod all over again! You can see how small the item is from the photographs (usb/penny to show size).The main sales line for the camera was,Its not as long as a cigarette Which at the time was the main pocket sized item you would compare something to.The camera itself took a 16mm photographic paper, and its lens could focus from anything from 5ft - infinity. Included in the images is one of the original leaflets selling the camera in the US (points to whom can pick out the physical impossability).Also included is a PDF of the original manual that I found images for on the internet then cleaned up and pushed through quark.Now, you might be asking yourself, what is gmjhowe going to do with it? Well, I intend to use it as its meant to be used. So Ive ordered myself some 120 camera paper (which can be cut down to the 16mm paper I need.) along with some chemicals.No doubt I will put up an instructable for it! My aim is to carry it around everywhere, so as to catch that artistic photo. Of course I will make it a nice little leather case to protect it, the item itself is valued at about Â£70!Anyone got any suggestions? Or, is anyone else into B&W; photography and want to share there thought/advice?
Topic by gmjhowe | last reply
Can anyone (here in Photography) recommend a good quality digital camera that has a manual shutter lock? Or even one where you can set the exposure time to minutes or longer? I'm putting together an Instructable that involves single-photon counting (few Hz rate), so I need a device that can accumulate hits for the order of an hour to get a recognizable image.
Topic by kelseymh | last reply
Well apparently according to many websites I've visted, claim that the longest cable you can use for a usb device is just a little over 15 feet. That said, I'm one for completely disregarding warnings. According to the text on one website: Q: How long of a cable can I use to connect my USB device? A: In practice, the USB specification limits the cable length between Full-speed USB devices to 5 meters (A little under 16 feet, 5 inches). For a Low-Speed device, the limit is 3 meters (9 feet, 10 inches). So my dilemma is that I have an a$$hole neighbour that is stealing things from me and I want to catch him. Being cheap, I'm going to use my webcam instead of spending $50 on a low resolution color camera that only outputs composite (although that would allow me to make cables easier and I DO have a capture card on my pc) but this is besides the point. So I found a telephone cable (as it has 4 wires just like USB) and I figure it's got to be AT LEAST 20 feet long, maybe 30, which is long enough for what I need. I thought because It's all over the internet how apparently the limit is 15 feet, that is would just NOT work at all. 10 minutes later I had spliced the telephone wire between the USB connector and the webcam, wiring black to black, red to red, green to green, and yellow to white (usb side). Upon plugging it into my desktop usb hub, sure enough, my computer recognized it, and the video came through just fine. So I post this forum-topic to SHOW that it is infact possible to go OVER the so-called usb limit. I got the idea originally from a video I watched last night where a guy had a webcam mounted to the middle of his ceiling for a project he was working on, and it appeared that he had spliced in a longer wire than the webcam came with, and strung it across the ceiling, and then the wall. I DO have a question and I AGAIN request the help of all you helpful instructables members! My webcam as-is can see IR (infared) light, as I've tested this with a remote control and it can see the white light coming out of it. So the question is, how hard would it be to build an array of IR LED's to light up my yard, not even nessesarily pointing away from the source of the webcam, but say, an array of led's above the door of my shed shining down so if someone does attempt to enter my shed, I will be able to clearly record them. Long post I know, but this is VERY important to me that this works and I'm hoping I didn't waste my time constructing this, I've had a few things stolen from me recently and it's really pissing me off. For instance, one of my bicycles was stolen, RIGHT FROM MY FRONT DOORSTEP! It has wayyyy more sentimental value to me than actual cash value and I'm literally ready to choke the living sh)t out of someone!
Topic by Punkguyta | last reply
If I built a radio transmitter and then attached it to an antenna of unknown length, is there a way to calculate the length of it using transmissions? Or, as a separate question, if I had an antenna of known length and then increased or decreased the length, would there be a way to estimate the new length from transmission properties (basically without physically measuring the antenna? Assume the antenna is a straight line.
Question by kakashibatosi | last reply
Hello all...I was looking in at the discussions of the possibility of long range radio control airplane operation and can make a few comments drawn from my research into the topic, with my opinions directed toward the USA market area ; First, Americans are bound by Federal Communications Commission regulations so we must abide by them or risk steep fines or legal trouble if caught. Second, the frequencies assigned by the FCC for radio control hobby use are already allocated, so modifications to your control systems in terms of frequencies could be illegal. Third, the maximum output for radio systems in the hobby is 1000mw (1 watt), which will easily control your miniature aircraft out to 1 to 2 miles, where you will need a video camera, transmitter, reciever and viewing device to even keep track of it ! There are several manufacturers that are way ahead of most of us here - offering pre made systems that are plug and play (no head scratching needed) . Search "FPV systems" on your computer and you'll find them. Bear in mind that to use these systems in America, you will need to obtain an amateur radio (ham) operator license to be legal (again, so if you get checked, you won't get in big trouble with the Federal Government ). I'm still looking into it myself, but if you want to see a good example of a really sharp Canadian who has a handle on this, search " VRflyer" on YouTube. He started doing this quite a few years ago and has some great video of his projects and results !
Topic by 2512rc
If I bought 2 rechargeable lithium polymer batteries for a cell phone, but only needed one for now, could I store the unused battery until the first battery quit charging (and was garbage)? If the above question makes ZERO SENSE, let me try explaining it another way: Ok, you have this fancy gadget that you want to keep functioning for many years. Eventually, the battery inside won't be able to take a charge, and the battery will be obsolete and no longer sold. Would it make sense to buy extra batteries ('stock up') and store them for a time when the original battery went bunk; would the stored batteries be like brand new after many years (these batteries would have never been charged before.. they would be still originally packaged)? Hope that actually makes sense :D -Neph
Question by nepheron | last reply
The following is a hypothetical (for now...): What Is The Long-Term Viability of Solid-State Storage? So, what does that mean? Well, I am asking about the viability and chances of data or hardware corruption of solid state storage if left in a relatively clean environment for...say...100 years, would it last? More specifically, if it were a boot drive, would it still boot? I am sure some of you will have viable alternatives to solid-state for this purpose I have not considered, which is why I am asking publically. I am trying to ensure the safety of important data over long-term (100+ years) storage and usage. Are there any recommendations/issues or alternatives any of you can think of which would decrease the chances of data loss over such a time?
Question by KyleBriggs | last reply
I'm using Dev-c++ (Bloodshed) and I need to store 3 billion into a variable, I already tried:int bla = pow(10,9) * 3long int bla = pow(10,9) * 3long long int bla = pow(10,9) * 3signed int bla = pow(10,9) * 3Then I tried to modify printf, guessing it might be the print function instead of var itself, but every urr 'var argument' didn't seem to work;%d%i%uBut whatever I do, the max number seems to be '2147483647'.Help pl0x, I'm confused because wiki says that 'long long int' should result in a 64 bit var, apparently not so.. (32 bit processor).(It should be possible without fancy headers I heard)
Question by Prodigity | last reply
I'm bored out of my mind, and normally I do small things on Instructables, but now I'd like to do a LONG TERM project, that won't rape my wallet. I'd like this project to be electrical, and interesting. SO, this is a great time to show off your work!
Question by JohnJY | last reply
Hello Everyone, I've got quite the project that I am undertaking and I am looking for a bit of advice. This will be my very 1st forray into long-distance wifi, as well as off-grid power resources, so Im biting off quite a bit at once! I have a friend who has been helping me with the research who has a much firmer understanding of both electricity and hardware, but he will be out of town for the next week and I would like to get a bit of progress on this while he is gone. SO, I shall consult the hive mind known as the internet. Alright, this project consists of creating an uplink between a remote shed, and a home in a nearby city, with a broadband connection. The rub, there is 10,000 ft mountain range in between the two. We have a site were we can put a repeater node at approx. 10,000 ft elevation, that has wonderful line-of-sight to both locations. However, this site is very remote, and will have to run off the grid obviously. The distances are as follows: Home to repeater: 3.96 miles (thats with Google Earth following the contours of the mountain/valley, not sure how to make it just do a straight angled shot, so thats a rough estimate) Repeater to Remote shed: 2.68 miles (same issue) Background environment info: shed has generator + 60w solar array with 3-4 deep discharge lead RV batteries at 7400 feet. Has spring fed running water, which could be utilized for power as well, as obviously its always running. Repeater location is at 10k, as stated. Moderate to high winds very likely (data from peaks of similar altitude in the general area show gusts ranging from 40-60 mp/h, temperature ranges of averaging 7 to 90+ for a the later part of July and August (F). Obviously, its very possible to get soemething below this, though the lowest Ive ever seen at the shed has been -15 (f), I would say most winters we could get a few nights that see temps below 0, but not often. Equipment Ideas: So to pull this off, we have come up with two ideas for the network equipment, which I shall discuss 1st, then I will show you what we have come up with for power. - Network - Repeater Node: rb433 wireless access point ($99.00) http://www.routerboard.com/pricelist.php?showProduct=43 with 2 r52h mini PCI wifi chips ($59.00 x2) http://www.routerboard.com/pricelist.php?showProduct=69 2 8-18 inch satelite dishs converted for long-range WIFI use (20.00 x2) http://www.engadget.com/2005/11/15/how-to-build-a-wifi-biquad-dish-antenna/ OR instead of a rb433, we could use 2 WRT54G Linksys routers like this. (I also have 2 BEF 801.11b routers that are legacy to the WRT54G. I would like to use this if possible! http://hackaday.com/2005/08/23/how-to-greyhat-wifi-repeater/ Now, I know that this later choice would increase power use by about double. From what I have been able to find, the WRT's would at anywhere from 4.2w to 8w of power. Anyways, I like this later choice because it would be significantly cheaper for the equipment, but do you have any other ideas? I know that the RB433 would work great, but its rather expensive all said and done after I throw up the power as well. Plus, if it takes a lighting strike, its out of commission, and 2 cheap linksys routers are much cheaper to replace! Anyways any input here would be great! - Power so power to the repeater node is the real challenge. We crunched the numbers and came up with something almost exactly the same as below: From the datasheets, a routerboard will draw between 6-10W. So design for 10W. Over 24 hours you will need 10Wx24h = 240 Watt.Hours of power. For 7 days, you need 7x240Wh = 1680 Watt.Hours. A single, large deep cycle 110Ah 12V battery gives you about 1320 Watt.Hours of power, almost meeting the requirement. Now, to look at the solar panels: A good rule of thumb is to install 6 times the wattage that is drawn by the device. This is because only about 8 hours a day in sunny weather gives you maximum power output from a solar panel. So the other 16 hours you need to draw from the battery. (So already you need 3 times the wattage drawn by the device to break even each day) To generate 1 full day of extra battery power per sunny day, you need another 3 times the wattage. This is how we arrive at 6 times. 6 x 10W = 60W. So at a minimum I would recommend 60W of solar panels. That qoute comes from http://diywifilink.wordpress.com/ and http://mybroadband.co.za/vb/showthread.php?179547-Advice-needed-Setting-up-wifi-repeater-11km which is a project from a guy in South Africa almost exactly the same as the one that we are working on. The numbers came out to be about the same (Though they were a bit different when we calculated for the WRT54G option.) so, 60w of power generation to keep a decent charge on a battery. Now, we have a 60w panel at the shed, which is rather large to take up to 10,000 ft and place on the side of a mountain, and given the consistent wind element up there, we are hoping to do a hybrid system of both solar and wind. This is where things get tricky. A perfect balance, or even a more wind heavy balance would be great, such as 30-40w wind 20-30w solar. That keeps the panel size down, and uses a power source that runs 24/7. A Faroun Savonius wind turbine seems like the best system, but the controller to prevent overcharging etc is where I get nice and lost, having breached into very unknown territory. https://www.instructables.com/id/Faroun-Savonius-Wind-Turbine/ http://www.fieldlines.com/board/index.php/topic,129060.html This looked at 1st like a good, cheap system to use a controller board for the wind, but my question is would the controller board that comes with these solar panels (see below) work for both. That below is the setup that we use more or less at the shed, with some mods, such as a better alternator. http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11298029&search;=solar&Mo;=5&cm;_re=1_en-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search⟨=en-US&Nr;=P_CatalogName:BC&Sp;=S&N;=4001192&whse;=BC&Dx;=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk;=Text_Search&Dr;=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne;=4000000&D;=solar&Ntt;=solar&No;=3&Ntx;=mode+matchallpartial&s;=1&topnav;=&Nty;=1&s;=1 So, can a small, 30-50w wind turbine and generator be built, with a small solar array to power this thing? I dont care if we have some down time, this is primarily going to be used as a system to get a weather station with web cam to send in hourly photos during the peak hours. I can have the system at the shed shutdown automatically using some cron jobs in linux during the evening to conserve power. When there are people at the shed, we would like to be able to get a good enough wifi connection to use a wifi device (such as an android phone or ipod) to use as a voip phone in essential communication. The teenagers aren't going to be chatting with their friends for hours, but we would like to be able to put a short call through in case something goes wrong, or we just need to get ahold of someone at the shed or in the city. Next the equipment at the shed should be comparable to the repeater node, sans 1 antenna and just some low power embedded system. We would like to get a webcam and weather station hooked up on this end, but that can wait for upgrades later if needed, if power doesnt allow it. like I said, a simple water turbine could be used (something similar to the wind turbine perhaps?) and even another wind turbine could be built to add extra power dedicated to running any system at the shed, though I dont think the wind is quite regular enough to be viable here, but if its cheap, we could throw it on anyways. equipment at the home in the city is simple, just use an extra laptop or desktop we have laying around to be server/router, hook up antenna to this, broadcast connection, run the weatherstation/webcam web server off of this. So, thats the plan, but load of input is needed to try to come up with this. We hope to try to keep this sub $1000.00, but the budget could go higher. This is DIY at its finest! Thanks in advance for you help!
Topic by kydan | last reply
We participated in the recent bay area Maker Faire where we taught hundreds of people to draw with light taking over 800 pictures. It was a blast.Were any of you there? I saw the guy that made the coffee press.You can see my personal favorites on Flickr at The Best of Maker Faire Light Doodles.
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My friend is long distance and if i want to call him i cant because my phone charges for long distance and i dont want to pay for skype any ideas around this?
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Hi, I want to convert an electric shock collar to be activated by a call or text sent from my mobile phone. It has to operate long distance, so I assume some sort of stripped-down mobile device will be needed that can receive a mobile signal. I have no idea how ot go about this, anybody have a solution for me? Does a device like this already exist, here or on the market? I tried shopping about but could find no commercial device of this nature, only 'long range' RF shock collars with a maximum range of 1000 metres.
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Would anyone know how I might hack my HP Photosmart C7280 to print unlimited (or at least 72") page lengths? I’m trying to print a banner from Illustrator, and the printer stops at 11". Width limit is a given, but there’s no reason I see that a printer couldn’t just keep on printing length-wise. Any suggestions? Thanks, Kennan
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If a person need to calculate time by how long a standar Medieval style torch burned how long would be a good guestimate
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I have looked into commercial transmitters, but they are too expensive, and do not achieve the range I want. I would like a transmitter that can transmit video at least 1 mile, but is still legal without a license.
Question by kjjohn | last reply
I am wondering of there is a method for revitalizing old camcorder batteries which refuse to charge. I know that certain camcorder battery chargers used to come with a "refresh" button. However, the chargers that came with my batteries lack this feature. I believe that most of the batteries are Ni-Cd's. However, one of them is lead-acid. The lead-acid battery is from a VERY old camera, one in which you placed the camera on your shoulder, and slung a VHS VCR from the other. When you were done recording, you would then take the VCR and plug it into the a matching TV tuner. This would charge the battery. Any ideas that would help me get some charge into these batteries would be appreciated. Thanks!
Question by Infinitevortex | last reply
Once you get going with your new SDR dongle you soon realise that it is little fun with the supplied antenna - if it came with one...Local stations, police (unencrypted) and so on is all fine with the short antennas.But if you want to get weaker stations or even track some satellites you are as lost as trying to get anything in the 160m band on your screen.Obvious way out is to get an external antenna.Depending on your needs and layout at home you might be lucky to find a ready to go option at some cost.In most cases though you will need more than the 3-5m that come with the usual antennas for car use.And not all base station antennas come with enough cable - keep in mind that hieght above ground and no obstructions close by count...With RG58 cable already being quite expensive a lot people consider the cheap 75Ohm TV cable as an alternative...Can we use 75Ohm antenna cable for our SDR needs?Of course we can!We only need to make sure that at the antenna end AND the receiver end the cable acts and appears like a 50Ohm cable.Especially if you need a really long cable in range of over 20m the TV cable shines with less loss that can't be ignored.Let me try to explain it the simple way first:You TV needs 75Ohm but the good old dipole antenna provides 300Ohm.The so called BALUN that connects the actual antenna with cable matches the antenna to the required 75Ohm impedance for the cable and TV.Like the TV, we don't transmit anything, so we don't have to care about what happens if power would go to the antenna - it is not a radio in the common sense, we just listen ;)There are many options available to match any impedance to any other but in our case a lenght of coax pairs is all that is needed.1/12 of the wavelength for the 75 and 50Ohm cable and we have a match.But.....You are right this simple option does not really work if you want to listen to a lot of different frequencies.What works fine for the TV also works fine on both ends!I assume you use an antenna for the common 50Ohm system and a standard 50Ohm SDR module or receiver.Two simple transformers will do the trick just fine and allow us to use cheap 75Ohm TV cable.The one on the antenna end provides 50Ohm for the antenna and 75Ohm for the cable.For the receiver the transformer is the same type but connected in reverse.You can look up how to make one with a simple ferrite torioid core and wire or coax but also order them from your favourite Chinese seller in the usual online markets.Add an antenna switch and you can use multiple antennas optimised for the frequency in question with dirt cheap TV cable.Just make sure to put the balun in a metal enclosure that is connected to the braid of the coax on both ends.
Topic by Downunder35m
So I have a pipe dream of building an extremely long range remote controlled boat (100's of kilometers). from my research it seems as if I would need to broadcast my control signal at less than 30 MHz so that the waves travel along the ground and less power is used for longer range. I am up to my ears in designs for the vehicle itself, but I am struggling as to how I would communicate data for such long distances. I have considered adapting Ham radios, and making a sound controlled robot. but this seems unreliable. So... any ideas? Thanks for your help :) -Cheeseboy
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How long does it take for a new instructable to show up?
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How long would it take to suck all the juice out of it?
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I entered my instructables last night like at 7pm i edited like around 8pm just to add a pic so how long should it take and im guessing they should notify me
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We are trying to make an infrared shooting game which includes a transmitting gun and a receiving jacket.as everyone knows IR is not directional so at long distance it will diverge but in shooting game we need a pointed IR beam. is there any technique implement this?? we need help..! :(
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Am aware of toroidal ferrite txformers used in Joule Thief apps,any other uses for the 'longer' ferrites ?
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On instructables I tried uploading a vedio, but there was a 10mb limit.
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I uploaded a tutorial with a few 16mp photos on it and its not showing up in instructables or in recent. is it jus taking a while to upload?
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