Algae oil

I've been reading about biodiesel and about using vegitable oil from algae. It would seem that per acre you can produce 250 times as much vegitable oil using algae than soy beans. I've been looking into the necessary parts for a very small scale demonstration project, including production, harvesting, drying and converting oil into diesel, but I'm having problems finding information of oil extraction. There are some very large oil extractors using screw and expeller. Even a very small one would cost several thousand dollars and since it is made for seeds I'm not sure it would work with algae. Does anyone here know about oil extraction process and how it can be scaled down and used with algae? The system I envision would only take the first pass in extracting oil, about 70%. From what I've been reading it is possible to get another 25% but requires some very nasty chemicals. Also, taking only that first press, the leftovers (refered to as "oil cake") makes for an excellent animal feed. After extracting that last 25% the leftovers are no longer suitable because of the toxic chemicals used. I'd rather have the 70% and animal feed and not have to bother with some very elaborate procedures for handling toxic chemicals. Anyone else interested in helping to put together a demo project like this? I already have resources on converting voil to biodiesel. Like I said, I'm mostly looking for information on extracting the oil. Thanks

Topic by GlobalVillageIdiot   |  last reply


Is algae oil suitable to be used as cooking oil ? Answered

Hi everyone, Is algae oil suitable to be used as cooking oil ? does it have any strange taste or odor ? what color is the oil ? I am not after biodiesel, i need to know if the algae oil is edible and suitable for human consumption.

Question by Nick_Zouein   |  last reply


Cleaning the oil for a vacuum pump

Was too lazy to do an Instructable about it and think a lot of pics or even videos won't help much if you know what I mean ;) Some of us use rotary vane pumps not for the purpose of evacuating refrigeration systems but for all sorts of fun and experiments. This means quite soon or often we face the problem of the oil taking in a lot of water or even worse particles and solvent fumes. I don't know about you but I was getting sick and tired of replacing the expensive oil every few weeks or sometimes even days if something got too wrong. There are many different blends of compressor oil out there that will work very well in our rotary vane pumps. The main difference is whyt the oil is designed for. Some are perfect for aircon systems, others for the work with solvent fumes and there are even those special oils that bind moisture. Unless you really need to evacuted special gases or solvents basically any low viscosity oil will do us just fine! So instead of paying 20 bucks for special compressor or even vacuum pump oil we can select the cheap everyday oil. Well, not exactly... We also want to be able to recycle our oil to save even more money. That means we don't want an oil that binds to water to keep it out of harms way. We also don't want any oil that has special coating abilities for example these oils claiming to reduce wear and tear on your engine. But any other low viscosity mineral oil or if you prefer synthetic oil will do - just stay away from silicone based oils!! If you have not used your pump for a few days you can often see a slude at the bottom of the viewing glass. If the rest of the oil is clear you can simply drain this worst bit and top up with fresh oil if required. This simple procedure saves you a lot of oil already, at least if your pump has some rest every now and then. Once your oil looks wasted it is time for the recycling and cleaning: Release the oil into a high glass jar or these facy spaghetti glasses. Fill with fresh oil and give it a short run. Release this oil as well and wait for it to properly drain. You now have the inside of your pump nice and clean again, time to fill one last time with fresh oil to keep using the pump. The filthy oil we now have in our jar should be covered with some fine cloth or filter paper and placed somewhere warm. After a week or two the oil, filth and water will have seperated and you pump, drain or siphon out the now clean oil for further use. Don't be too exact here trying to get all the oil out, just remove what you can without risking to suck in the filth from the bottom. Simply leave the rest in the jar and add the next oil change to it for the same recycling process. Solvents.... In some cases we will work with solvents and that means the oil might bind to them. Acetone for example is quite nasty here and can change the oil itself by breaking down certain components. In most cases it means the viscosity will be reduced, which is not really too bad for us. What is bad however is the fact that these solvents often refuse to fully seperate or evaporate. Once the oil looks clean do a smell test and if it smells like solvent then for sure there is solvent in it. Next step to confirm is to do a lube test. Simply place on some smooth metal or glass and smear it with your finger - a drop is enough here. If it feels sticky on the surface, gives you a rubber like feeling when sliding over the surface or is far less "slippery" than the fresh oil you also have a problem. I found that filling this contaminated oil into a proper container and applying a strong vacuum will remove all solvent residue in a very short time. Downside is that the oil in the pump is contaminated again, so it pays off to collect solvent contaminated oil seperately and once you got enough for several refills use the pump to get rid of the solvent. When done do another smear and smell test, if still smelly repeat if no longer smelly but still the same bad feeling on the surface: Discard as the oil might be broken down by the solvent.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


veg oil as diesel fuel? Answered

With th' price of diesel fixin' to skyrocket in th' forseeable future ,  what would need to be done in order to use cookin' oil (brand new ,  straight from th' supermarket) in my cars tank ? I don't think it makes a difference ,  but I need to be sure I wont damage th' injectors or fuej pump or anything else by dumpin' a few bottles of rape seed oil in and runnin' it !!

Question by gearhead1951   |  last reply


oil submerged playstation 3

Hi again iables, I want to build a oil submersable ps3 and have a few questions, 1. Will the oil degrade the silicone on a glass fish tank and cause a leak? 2. How do i extend the power and eject buttons off the motherboard? 3. How do i extend all other wires for the hard drive, power supply, bluray drive, hard disk drive and any i have missed? 4. What would be the best way to stop wicking in the wires from slowly emptying the oil? 5. Would any normal pc case cooling fans be ok to circulate the oil or would they burn out from the extra current draw? 6. Would a normal overhead fish tank filter be ok to use as a diy radiator pump? 7. Would this prevent the dreaded YLOD as iv already had it twice and fixed it myself, with relative success (about 2 months or 100ish hours), and this time im going to oven bake instead of heat gun as this method is rumoured to provide the best results, anyway i hope because of the even cooling provided by the oil bath, then it would keep it much cooler than air cooling? 8. What about using themoelectric cooling pads with huge heatsinks to provide extra cooling? 9. Would the wireless and bluetooth antenna's need to be extended or would they be ok submersed? i thought radio signals were blocked by water so is oil the same? If they do, how would i go about this? 10. Where would i buy mineral oil? I heard that Johnsons baby oil would work? 11. Could i use something similar to an undergravel filter in a fish tank to generate circulation if a pump head wont work? 12. What metal piping should i use for a diy radiator as i heard that mineral oil is very good at dissolving some things and im worried that the contamination may cause conductivity? I think that's it... if not ill add more when i think of them, many thanks in advance for any help!?

Topic by Xmortx114145   |  last reply


Algae biofuel oil refining?

I have long been a fan of the idea of renewable energy from algae colonies, but I have yet to find any information on actually refining the oil produced with the algae.  I am well aware of how to remove the oil, however at that point it is just an organic crude.  Is their a process to refine it to a more diesel or gasoline-like state, or is it efficient enough to run an engine on the crude.  I am currently growing a reasonable algae colony and would appreciate assistance in doing something with the algae after it is grown.  

Question by jj.inc   |  last reply


360 submergerd in mineral oil

Well, I seen the instructable to submerge a PC motherboard in non-conductive mineral oil to cool it and brainstormed that this could be the perfect fix for my RROD problem with a early model Elite. I have drawn up plans and already found a few problems and would like some input on them. I do not expect a expert answer but I'm sure there are people out there that can make a far better assessment on this than I. 1.) Will the oil conduct and move enough heat to be more effective than fans? 2.) The case I have designed requires roughly 2.8-3.0 Gal of mineral oil and if i was to consider         circulating it through a radiator, what would an appropriate pump size be? ( gallons or liters          per min) 3.) Also I would plan on using only wireless controllers so is there a way to solder some leads       onto the sync button and maybe to an external momentary switch so I would not need access       to the MB everytime we wanted to add another player? Thank you for any help you can provide on any of these issues. Regardless I will begin work on it tomorrow as a experiment and to challenge myself. I will be making an instructable on this when it is done. And many thanks to the original author that inspired me to take it a step further. https://www.instructables.com/id/Mineral-Oil-Submerged-PC/

Topic by jf78   |  last reply


I am building an oil cooled PC but I need help

Does anyone know how to filter it effectively to get rid off the fragance and the vitamin E? (well, baby oil's condutivity is 0 but I just want to effectively filter it to obtain pure baby oil ) (Note I leve in a remote location and the only cheap accessible choice is the baby oil and they do not carry any other) Your help is appreciated!

Topic by dejabox   |  last reply


OIL COOLING PC: I want to build it but I hit a wall

But, Does anyone know how to filter it effectively to get rid off the fragance and the vitamin E? (well, baby oil's condutivity is 0 but I just want to effectively filter it to obtain pure baby oil ) (Note I leve in a remote location and the only cheap accessible choice is the baby oil and they do not carry any other) Your help is appreciated! THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP IN THE 1ST ROUND!

Topic by dejabox   |  last reply


How do I extract vegetable oil from algae?

I've just seen the fantastic instructable on growing algae en-mass, and have a few ideas for it. However, does anyone know how to then extract the vegetable oil from the algae? Thanks :)

Question by ohowson   |  last reply


What should I do with a couple of empty 3l olive oil tins?

I have a couple of 3l olive oil tins (Same as here) and I don't know what to do with them. I need ideas guys! They are made out of about 0.5 mm steel and you can solder on to them. I have the tools to do practically anything with them, but I don't know what to do. Any ideas at all are appreciated.

Question by sockless   |  last reply


is it safe to store lithium metal in alcohol to stop oxidization? Answered

hello, i extracted some lithium metal from some new lithium batteries i bought at a second hand shop really cheaply . ive extracted the metal from one, but now, after placing it under vegetable oil to store, then putting in water, the vegetable oil works too well seperating the lithium form the water, making small lithium combustion reactions very difficult and i really want to show my friends the marvels of lithium on water, so i want to know, is it safe to store lithium in methylated spirits, or some other hydrocarbon that will evaporate away really fast , and not inhibit the lithium's reaction with water, like canola oil does? clean lithium usually combusts when i put it in water , and the reaction is quite fast. but when i put oily lithium in water, the same does not happen, the reaction is slow, and no combustion occurs unless i use my jet lighter.

Question by oldmanbeefjerky   |  last reply


What is the oil content of Eurasian Milfoil?

I would like to use the oil extracted from Milfoil to produce biodiesel. I would like to know what the oil content, if any, is of milfoil. I think it is great because it is unwanted and there is a lake near me that has two giant machines whose sole job is to cut milfoil. I could collect it, dry it, press it, and refine it for next to nothing. If you have seen anything like this let me know.

Question by jack.h   |  last reply


Xbox 360 submerged in mineral oil?

Hey all, i wanted everyone's thought on submerging my xbox 360 in mineral oil, im thinking of build an acrylic case for it. ( too keep it roughly the same size). i know it will work forsure i just want to know if im going to get better results with oil rather than air. and should the xbox be on stand-off in the case for flow under the mobo? could silicon hold the whole case together with about 3-4 liters of oil ( maybe less) mounting the dvd and harddrive on top outside the case? and also sealing the top of the case? (i still want to be able to get in it after obviouly)

Topic by IIwootII   |  last reply


Kite photographing the BP oil spill

GrassrootsMapping.org is a group of people who are documenting BP's oil spill with cameras held aloft by kites and balloons. Sometimes they even get a ride on a plane. All of the images produced with this method will be going into the public domain. It's cool stuff and the images are far better than anything else out there. To keep the project going and cover the costs, they've set up a page on kickstarter to ask for donations. They've already passed their initial goal of $5,000, but it's a good cause and I hope they get plenty more than that. I pledged some money and wish them all the best.

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply


LED Music Submerged in mineral oil. Answered

I have seen led music cubes and prisms here but is it at all possible that you could make one that does light up to music in a plexi glass cube but filled with mineral oil? If I were to do this of course itd have to be sealed water tight so nothing leaks, but is there anything else that might need to occur? Per say would I have to add a dye to the mineral oil to get a good luminosity effect or would it be shining bright without it? If you could throw me some things that might be flawed in this idea or advice I would appreciate it lots!

Question by PersonPwner   |  last reply


production of biodeisel from vegitable oil?

How to build a reactor to produce biodeisel from vegitable oil like SUNFLOWER OIL, JETROPA OIL etc

Question by Aijazmy   |  last reply


difference between marine and normal oil

I need to mix gasoline with 2-cycle oil for my 2-stroke chainsaw and i only have marine 2-cycle oil. is it ok if i use this or do i need to use regular 2-cycle oil?

Question by Sun Gear   |  last reply


how do you extract oil from algae ?

Well been reading that algae is a renewable fuel but I can't see how ? So how do you get the oil that is discussed out of the algae? Is it one of these non sustainable horribly expensive and hideous to the environment jobbies that we are told will save the world?

Question by strangebike   |  last reply


Shell says "Peak oil in 7 years."

In a recent e-mail to Shell employees, Shell CEO Jeroen van der Veer writes:"Regardless of which route we choose, the world's current predicament limits our maneuvering room. We are experiencing a step-change in the growth rate of energy demand due to population growth and economic development, and Shell estimates that after 2015 supplies of easy-to-access oil and gas will no longer keep up with demand."2015 is seven years away and with limited resources and an expanding population we are sure to see more and more limitations on resources we take for granted. Water, cooking oil, and food are also in that list.The e-mail goes on to say that little will likely be done about this situation by any governments until the poop has really hit the fan and by then it will probably be too late. Two scenarios are laid out in the e-mail, Scramble and Blueprints. One is a mad dash towards a solution as we hit the problem head-on and the other is to make a plan now for the inevitable.Personally, I hope for the Blueprints scenario, but I feel like the Scramble is likely what we'll be doing. link

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply


What types of oil can be used for high voltage transformer insulation?

I am modifying microwave transformers for a higher voltage to drive a Tesla coil and I need to know what kind of oils for example vegetable or paraffin can be used for high voltage insulation in the transformer to protect it? To what voltage will it insulate?

Topic by The MadScientist   |  last reply


Cost of living? Answered

We drive a Jetta Diesel. TDI. Fuel here in Canada is now over $5.00 a gal. and although we get 50 + miles per gal. we are wondering what cooking oil we can directly pour into the fuel tank. We have heard that someone in England is doing it, as gas over there is $12. + a gal. Has anyone had any experience. Many years ago the VW company said that if not able to get diesel, get some peanut oil. Any thoughts?

Question by emit   |  last reply


Oil Spill Water Cleanups As Fast As They Happen

We live and survive on oil today. That dependence won’t go away for at least a few more generations. Today’s technology allows us to drill oil just about anywhere in the world, and then move it to anywhere we want using behemoth water vessels. Unfortunately, there’s a dark side to all this and it happens when our technology fails us, as periodically demonstrated by mankind’s great oil spill disasters. The most recent being the Gulf Oil Spill of 2010. The amount of oil actually dumped upon our ecosphere and contaminating the environment was mind boggling. The numbing numbers are so large that we can’t even get our minds around it. And we all know that the responsible drilling company won’t fess up to how much was really spilled because even they don’t know, don’t want to know and furthermore want to forget about it. Is there some way to tackle this oil spill problem through the use of the very culprit that created it, namely technology? Of course there is, but it will cost the billions they used to clean up the mess they created in the first place.  We want to develop a technological process to be used worldwide that borrows from what we currently know, and clean up these oil spills almost as quickly as they happen upon our seascape. Did we finally clean up the Gulf oil spill?  Yes, maybe? But it took too long and we either didn’t use the right equipment or not enough prepared and available equipment to check the problem. Time is probably the most critical factor involved in mitigating oil spill disasters. While Nature obviously works to clean up ecological disasters, she takes perhaps a decade or more to make a region whole again. We need to help nature accelerate her time schedule to a few weeks not decades! Oil cleanup equipment exists that is too painstakingly slow and inefficient to get the job done quickly and effectively, and to recapture ~99% of the oil spilled. Today’s processes are makeshift, disjointed, and not organized nor designed to tackle today’s mega-proportion oil spill problems.  We need a cohesive mega-solution to handle mega-problem oil spills. A virtual army of specialists with proper equipment to attack, gather up and capture, then deliver the spilled oil to vessel staging platforms. These huge platforms will separate 99.9% of the captured oil/water, dumping the water back.  Oil tankers on standby then take this recaptured crude oil to refineries. This process must be set up with the proper equipment to dynamically proceed in real time. Only high sea states should be capable of halting its operation. The process of oil/water cleanup requires the serial use of various sequential operations where each performs a key stage of the operatic procedure. The orchestration starts with techniques that initially yield the biggest volumetric punch first, then refines this processing by using less volumetric cleaning ability but greater oil separation capability. All the while we have deployed an improved form of today’s containment apron, capable of hundreds of miles of coverage to prevent spreading the spilled oil slick to shore. Having researched today’s available oil spill removal systems, their usefulness has been categorized according to volumetric processing capability per time. Fast surface skimming techniques plus “huge”, constant flowing centrifugal separators clearly win, but are not 100% effective. Sponge-type, oil absorbent techniques then come to play as they are useful in nearly recapturing the remaining 0.1% oil from the water, but are slow and will be used solely on the remaining 99.99% pure water expelled from our centrifugal oil separators. Today we literally use these absorbers like sponges, dunking them into the oil slick, waiting awhile and pulling them out after they’ve absorbed some oil. Such prolonged processing times are unacceptable. Absorbers are to be used differently than today, their performance is vastly accelerated as they now act as 0.1% oil filters to process the pressurized water expelled from the centrifugal separators. The final residuals of perhaps 0.01% that the high pressure absorber filtration misses will require oil break down chemistry whose end products are environmentally friendly and allows Nature to restore balance. So the actual water dumped back will be better than 99.99% pure. Now let’s break this process down a bit and address the pieces of equipment involved. Our attack vessels are special, high speed catamarans that ferry cars between different ports today. They use water-jet propulsion, are extremely fast, maneuverable, and will be equipped with a special front-end water scoop to pick up the oil/water slick in real time while propelled forward. Their scoop or nozzle articulates, performing real time adjustments responding to oil slick depths thereby avoiding too much water pickup. Once their holding tanks are full, they reconnoiter with waiting intermediate-sized tankers to quickly dump their oil/water cargo. When these tankers are full, they deposit their load to one of the huge vessel platforms. These staging platforms use centrifugal systems to quickly and efficiently separate huge quantities of the oil and water, and dump the 99.9% cleaned water overboard (Nature effectively handles the remaining 0.1% of oil). When their tanks are full of oil, they start emptying themselves into the large standby oil tankers for delivery to refineries. QED. For you science fiction/fact fans, this concept requires enormous equipment, is on a huge scale and if viewed as one harmonious system may be the first Oil-Terra-Forming machine to be used on our planet.  

Topic by RT-101   |  last reply


How can I get oil into this motor?

Hey there guys, long time no see! I have a very special request, I want everyone to take a look and offer their opinions. Here's the situation: I recently aquired a 50" rear projection DLP Tv, quite a sweet deal and it still works... for the most part.. The sad thing is, the color wheel is starting to fail inside of it, for those of you who don't know what one of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Light_Processing#The_color_wheel_.22rainbow_effect.22 these are. This tv still actually works fine, but the motor is getting louder and louder, and sometimes the colors go out of sync and I have to restart the tv. It'll cost me $150 at least to replace the wheel, but really there's no need for it, the motor just need some oil! So anyways, I've had it apart before and oiled the motor, tried to squeeze some in the motor housing and in the divot on the backside where I presume is a bearing, but it appears sealed, as the video will show, as the whole outside moves, there is no visible moving parts of the shaft or the bearings :S So what I want to know, is anyone familiar with this type of motor and how I can pull it apart/oil it (I've done it with computer fans, why can't I do it with this). Worst come to worst, I'd even try drilling a small hole with my dremel that I could inject oil inside with? (Btw I have 3-1 oil, which I think should suffice enough). I was even thinking of getting a container so the motor can sit in oil without the glass having to, and just let it soak for a week or something, Ideas people??? Video:

Question by Punkguyta   |  last reply


How do I get the oil off my flyback transformer? Answered

A while back, I decided to submerge my flyback in canola oil to stop it from ruining itself. As it turns out, submerging a flyback in canola oil is a very stupid idea. I want to clean all the oil off of it so I can do it right the next time, but I have no idea how to safely do that without damaging the flyback. Can anyone help me out?

Question by Shagglepuff   |  last reply


System shuts down while use OCCT

 hey guys, my canola oil submerged pc system seems to shut down every time i use OCCT to get my system really working hard, i can tell you whats not the problem, Fresh Os (since last month), Not Overheating definitly. theres nothing wrong with my pc that i found so far other then running OCCT maybe i should try another stress test software?  Anyone wondering what the deuce a "Canola oil subermeged pc" is check here: www.instructables.com/id/Oil-Submerged-Fish-Tank-Pc/ also for system spec if your wondering

Topic by IIwootII   |  last reply


Solder Iron Tips: oily, bubbly coating forming... See Pics

Can anyone explain to me what is happening with my soldering iron? It makes it very hard to remove. I thought maybe flux is getting down there somehow but I've been taking care to alway keep the tip down and avoid any excess solder accumulating on the tip (aside from tinning of course). But it's happening again!

Topic by milsorgen   |  last reply


How do i make an oil burner?

I would like to make a waste oil burner. Yes, i know the hazards of the fumes given off so and so but i have a respirator. Can anyone make me a step by step instruction on how to make an oil burner capable of melting aluminum,silver,and tin. And possibily iron?

Question by trf   |  last reply


How can I purify mineral oil?

My early experiments with oil-cooling my PC lead to some chemical *discoveries* The first was mineral oil will dissolve latex rubber.  I was using surgical tubing to pump the oil to the radiator and after a day the tubes had softened and swollen so much they wouldn't stay attached to the pump.  That and the oil turned an ugly yellow. (* the second was warm oil reacts with PVC, and causes the insulation on usb cables to become brittle) I'm working on the next gen of the project and I'd like to clean up the oil, but I can't quite google my way to a solution. I have filtered the oil (removed all the bugs) though a coffee filter, and a couple of paint filters, I don't have any reason to believe the rubber is suspended and filterable, but I could be wrong. Any chemists out there know what I can do?

Question by Malkaris   |  last reply



oil burner ignition transformer and uses question ? Answered

I recently just got a hold of a Allanson oil ignition transformer, the output voltage is 10,000 volts at 23 ma. the power cord was cut so i have to connect another power cord. what gauge or metal is recommended for the output terminals and can i attach a power switch to the 120 A.C. volt line. i was planning on starting off making a jacobs ladder then later on making a tesla coil after i have worked with high voltage a little bit longer are there any more uses for the high voltage transformer i have  

Question by MonstaM   |  last reply


How can I extract Peppermint (or another mint plant)'s oil?

I hear oil from algae is extracted by drying it, then soaking it in alcohol to dissolve the extract, then straining it and evaporating the alcohol. I might start experimenting with that, but any suggestions?

Question by sherlocksbumstead   |  last reply


How do high heat burners work?

I know there are various things to be considerred in design. Can anyone explain to me what each thing does? Id like to know about oil flow amount,air flow amount,the venturi,flared or or compressed outlet nozle,and the works...id like to know what makes a burner cause i need a high heat very low wear burner for melting iron.

Question by trf   |  last reply


How do I fix an oil leak problem for a 1983 Mercedes Benz 300sd?

Oil leak appears at the pipe connected to the oil pan

Question by    |  last reply



Clean a gas motor to get rid of the grease and the oil Answered

Is there a way I can clean a 2 stroke gas motor that I disassemble? I want to get rid of all this grease and this oil and if possible, is there a way to remove rust? I tried with water but there is still grease on it

Question by Patented   |  last reply


Would it be dangerous to submerge a plasma ball in mineral oil?

I'm thinking about creating an art project, but would need to submerge the glass part of a plasma ball in mineral oil (which I've heard is not conductive). Would this be dangerous?

Question by rockyreasoner   |  last reply


how do you get rid of the (change engine oil) light on a 96 corvette?

The change engine oil light came on at around 100,000 mi and even disconnecting the battery does not get rid of the light.

Question by jfinish   |  last reply


Homemade electric oil diffuser for a popular feline pheromone... Is this option possible?

I am wondering if it is possible to construct an electric oil diffuser for a popular feline pheromone that creates a calm environment for cats. The current price on one of the those dispensers is upwards of $35, but the pheromone oil itself is much cheaper. I am in need of at least two more, which will end up being pretty pricey.  I am at a complete loss on how to construct one, as well as knowing about the inner mechanics of an electric (plug-in) oil diffuser. I can however, follow any advice or instruction on how to build one.  I have heard of using reeds with essential oils, but could it work with the cat pheromone? Would this even be logical considering my cats will probably knock it over? Anything helps, thanks! http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41lrpwvftmL.jpg http://www.feliway.us/

Question by datchitinkerton   |  last reply




What is mixed with Silicon Oil to produce a high temperature foam ?

Q Quite a few years ago , I sure it was published in American Mag [ Suspect it was Popular Electronics ].It was a single chemical which cause the foaming .               Email =richardlionson@yahoo.com

Question by RICHARDLIONSON   |  last reply


how are fluid bearings made?

I was looking at fluid filled bearings and wanted to try and make one i just cant understand how they are filled and how they can rotate without leaking any ideas on how they are sealed?

Question by sharlston   |  last reply



trying to buy a Low Viscosity silicone oil any idea where i could find it i need about 10gallons please help.

Im buliding a submerged server and i want 2 use silicone oil but i cant find any so any ideas would be helpful thanks.

Question by Laknight117   |  last reply


how to extract copper from copper grease?

I mixed copper grease and oil or water i forgot and i saw the little speckles of copper how do i extract them?

Question by sharlston   |  last reply


Soldering tips and tricks for complicated metals

Whether you are just a hobby builder or do your own electronics projects, you know how to solder...Then one day you find yourself in the position that your solder just does not want to stick...My first moment of total defeat happened when I was a teenager.Was building some simple motor with instructions from a book but substituted what I could...Ended up with some stainless steel contacts and being unable to solder my wires to them...If you ever had problems like this then read on ;)What are easy to solder metals?Basically everything that does not form an oxide layer on the surface and is able to bind with tin, lead or silver.Copper is one of the easiest metals to solder on but every plumber certainly knows how important a clean and corrosion free surface is.Any coating or alloy that prevents oxidisation or provides a harder surface usually means with normal, electornics solder we might be lost.Nickel for example can be a true pain and same for chrome.So lets start with the hard metals first.Steel, nickel, stainless...If the part size does not already mean trouble to get it hot enough, then we face the problem of how to "wet" it with our solder.Normal steel is usually fine if you give it a fine sanding right before the soldering, however getting the heat onto the part is crucial.Even something simple like a 5mm thick steel rod can be a pain with a normal soldering iron.I good way to cheat is to preheat the part or area with a blow torach on a soft flame - not a hot, blue flame.Try to do this away from the area you need to solder as the temperature difference usually causes some initial condensation on the surface.Most steels that play a vital role don't like to be overheated as it can affect the hardness an other things, so be careful here.Rosin core solder works fine on steel and it also indicates when the temperature gets too hot by boiling and smoking badly.If you still struggle to wet the surface try to scratch it with your solder - if it does not melt the surface is not hot enough.Nickel coatings are usually very thin and a slight sanding quickly reveals the layer underneath.If the metal used is not copper already then a copper layer will be electroplated on before the nickel coating.Either way the key is to get through the nickel without going through the copper, for example if steel contacts were used for durability reasons.After that soldering is as easy as directly onto copper.Steinless steel however can be a true pain, same by the way if you need to preserve the nickel coating as best as possible and can sand it off.Without using chemistry the only way I found is to use a stainless steel tip in the soldering iron.But as the preperation of one requires chemicals anyway we might start with them first.The passivating layer of layer or stainless steel can of course be pre-treated by sanding.Especially very shiny surface benefit from it.After this I prefer to wet the surface with Phosphoric Acid - you can find it in the harware store as "Rust remover".It is a food grade acid used in many of your favourite fizzy drinks, so skin contact is not a big deal - just wash it off.The phosphoric acid is not strong enough to break the oxide layer but it keeps air away.And once you start scratching the hot metal with your stainless steel soldering tip it will prevent a new oxide layer from forming.This method however requires a low temperature solder and quick work as the acid boils off quickly.In the plumbing section of your hardware store your find various fluxes for soldering.Look for something containing both Ammonium Chloride and Tink Chloride.Around here a common brand name is Bakers Fluid.Usually if it has a red danger label on it you will find the above ingredients on the lable somewhere.Be careful with it as it is very corrosive and harmful to your health!Good thing is that all remains can be washed off with just running water.What does it do though?Unlike the phosphoric acid, the chlrodies directly attack the metal.Especially once getting hot, so if in doubt wear proper protection as advised on the label!The oxide layer is not only being eaten away, there is also an ion exchange happening, so a product with more than 30% of zink chloride is prefered here.The zink binds with the stainless steel or nickel and provides an easier way to bond for the solder.Key is to work quickly and with precision!Flux paste is good for brazing but not so good for soldering.The flux liquid, unlike the paste will start to boil right when the metal get to soldering temperatures.That is if you use standard lead based solder, most lead free types should be ready a bit sooner.Start to scratch the metal with the solder and use a soft flame from the other side or close to the soldering area - do not apply the flame directly onto the flux covered area.Why? Well, the flux isolates the metal from the heat of the flame and it will boil off way before the metal gets hot enough ;)On smaller parts and when using the soldering iron create a small bubble of solder and keep scratching the surface while it heats up.In case the flux dries off apply a bit more before this happens!Once the solder starts to wet the metal a tiny bit it is usually very easy to spread it out to the desired size and shape.With the heat applied from the underside the solder will always flow to the area of most heat!Once done it is best to let the part cool down then to give it a good wash under running water to remove all remains of the flux.Failing to to do so will result in quick and ongoing corrosion, so do it properly...Aluminium, the bad metal...I encountered it first when I could not welding or brazing on a quite small part.Plus, of course, the problem of having to add a copper wire as well.Then again when I had to solder some aluminium wire.Acid won't work, chlorides only make it worse, so don't bother with either for aluminium.Standard rosin core solder also fails.But there is a suprisingly simple solution to the oxide problem on aluminium.Mechanical work...There are quite few videos out there showing how someone solders onto some aluminium foil.It is so simple because the foil is thin - use it to test your new skills.A thing though that is often done wrong is the surface preperation.It usually starts with a fine sanding - to remove the oxide layer.....The some oil is applied and soldering starts under the oil cover.And if pay attention then it is often a painful process of scratching with the soldering iron while trying to make the solder bubble wet the aluminium.That's why foil is so simple here....What happened in those videos?Quite simple: Aluminium oxidises right away while you sand it.Even if you are quick with the oil it already happened.So why not do the sanding after the oil was applied?A fibreglass pen or a stainless steel wire brush (usused on other things!) work quite well here.The oil prevents the air from attacking the aluminum.If in doubt use some clay and form a little dam around the soldering area to prevent the oil from running off.Petroleum jelly, vaseline and all other identical things work fine here same for clean engine oil.But you have to use rosin free solder, no flux core, just plain solder.If you don't have it simply melt some normal rosin core solder to a nice drop and clean the rosin off ;)Since there is no real oxide layer with this way of pre-treating the soldering and wetting happens right once the aluminium get hot enough to melt the solder.You might find it sticking nice right away but don't be fooled!You need to heat the aluminium until you actually see the solder forming a nice puddle.With careful sanding you create very clean boundaries.Other soldering tricks...Getting cholired based flux for a single job might be overkill.If you happen to have one of these tip cleaning stones for your soldering iron then you have what you need ;)Simply scrape some of it off and dissolve it is a tiny amount of water.Will only be ammonium chloride and requires more scratching on stainless steel but works...Preparing a stainless steel soldering tip sunds as easy as finding a suitable piece of wire and grindinga tip onto it.If you every changed the tip on a soldering iron them you know there is two types.The simple one for the cheaper irons uses a set screw or similar to hold the tip.The better ones are hold in place by a collar or other type of screw fitting.And well, those have a thicker part in their body.If you need to solder stainless steel more than once or twice it makes sense to buy a cheap but powerful soldering iron and to make sure it uses a straight piece of metal with no thicker parts to hold it in place.If you can't find some stainless steel wire or round bar of suitable thickness you can go slightly below or much thinner if you require a thin tip.Just make a copper or aluminium collar for the tip to hold it in place, like a sleeve to go around.Grind the tip to your desired shape before fitting it in....You won't need a mirror finnish and it can be helpful if the the surface is quite rough.After all, you want to scratch around on stainless steel with it and you can't harm it this way.To get a nice and clean cover of solder onto the tip you need the mentioned flux from above.Use a small cup and fill some of the flux in it so you can dip the tip of the soldering iron into it.If there is no temperature control start with a cold iron and the tip sanded off a last time right before dipping it into the flux.Use some clamps or whatever you feel like to help keeping the tip in place.If you get flux onto bits you don't want to cover with solder then wash off and try again.Turn the iron on observe the tip.As soon as you see tiny bubble forming take it out and quickly start rubbing your solder onto the tip.It helps to have a thick enough solder so you can apply some pressure here.And of course the solder should be nice and shiny and not covered by oxides...Special cases like titanium or othe metals that usually fail to bond with solder....Let's face it: whenever soldering is not feasable we are happy to revert back to crimping or screwing.Nothing wrong with it either and often the better option when it comes to being able to do a quick repair at a later stage.Most of thes special metals, including your favourite heating wire can still be solder using the right surface prep and flux but it really should be avoided if you can.And real bond like you get when soldering copper would only be on a surface level and mechanical strenght questionable.On a professional level ultrasonic soldering is used to make the impossible possible.The cavitation effect breaks through the surface oxides or passivating layers and the solder just wets the surface like it would be copper.On a hobby level things look different though.Unless you decide to build your own solar panels from scratch the investment into some low end ultrasonic soldering machine already set you back a few grand....There is a way to cheat on the cheap though if you are into experimenting and building things....More on that in my other topic about making an ultrasonic soldering tank. ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 


What lubricant to refill a fridge compressor with?

Hey all, I just grabbed a compressor from a fridge that had been badly mangled by a bulldozer at a demolition site, planning to make a vacuum pump or airbrush compressor (or both!) Trouble is, I thought the liquid it contained was leftover refrigerant, and drained it all out. I didn't really have a choice, as leftover freon was gassing out of the compressor (thought it had lost pressure, but there was still a little in the compressor) and it was sputtering the oil everywhere. I held it upside down while carrying it home, and when I got it here, it was apparently empty. Then I found out that what I poured out wasn't liquid freon, but actually vital oil that keeps it alive. The compressor runs fine, but I only tried it for a few seconds for fear of destruction. I have many lubricants here, motor oil, 2-stroke oil, bike chain oil, etc. If I'm to dump an oil into my compressor, any ideas on which is the best call, and roughly how much should it take?

Topic by Rectifier   |  last reply


Can I use a deep fat fryer to heat bearings to fit to a shaft?

This deep fat fryer will heat to 400deg. Do I use a veg oil,   or  compressor oil   .... someone told me this once, I don't know what oil to use that won't burn easily. A one time job  just don't want to buy a bearing heater  These bearings are 3" OD and go in a large compressor doing a rebuild on the low cost mode...

Question by anvil_man   |  last reply


Ok my dad messed up kinda big this time... (car problems)? Answered

Well basically my dad tried to change the oil in the car... (new-ish Nissan versa) and he accidentally poured oil into the wrong thing and filled the already full transmission... he figured out and removed some and poured the correct amount in... but that was after he took it for a spin... and then he over filled the engine oil thing and now it doesn't register any oil pressure at all... (he removed the excess)... what did he mess up or break and how hard is it to replace and how much would it be to get the part/take it to some place...

Question by girrrrrrr2   |  last reply