Best protection for computer... LIGHTNING

I've heard of computers fried in electrical storms, even with a surge protector. 1) Is there a better way to protect it, short of unplugging? a friend mentioned connecting it thru a bus, and letting the bus act as a fuse. I'm not sure what he was really getting at. 2) What are the odds? 3) experiences + anecdotes?

Topic by Toga_Dan   |  last reply


Power Surge Fried my Integrated Network Card?

At least, it seems this way. I while ago we had a weird "power surge like thing". It was odd... It seemed to "restart" some electronics...I was on my computer when It happened, it was like a really close lightning bolt. Though after it scared the crap out of me and I looked at my screen, the computer was still on and everything was running. Then windows started to act like I had just unplugged everything and plugged them back in. It started to read my flashdrive, my printer turned back on and announced the black ink was low (stupid $35+ ink :P), etc. Since it was going nowhere I just held the power button and shut er off. Then, later, after turning it all back on I found that it didn't have an internet connection. I finally got one after unplugging my router (Which I could still get a connection through the wifi) and connecting my modem to my comp through usb instead. I think it fried my NIC. ...crap Think that's what happened, and I'll have to buy a pci adapter instead? Thanks,RX --This is odd too. I went upstairs and my PSP, and Zune were both turned on. Neither were plugged in and both were completely off....and now it seems my tv is blown out.

Topic by Rockerx 


power inverter: help? Answered

I have this power inrter, and i once hooked it up t a mac power supply converted to a benchtop power supply. i didn't know i yet, but the power supply was surging, and it started making he inverter smoke. i turned it off, but the inerter never worked again. can i reuse any of these parts to make a new one? i dont think it was the actual inverter piece, but one of the others p.s. this inverter was from a hp scanjet scanner

Question by zack247   |  last reply


USB devices on my PC cause 'Power surge'? Answered

I have Microsoft Windows XP sp2 running on a dell machine. Whenever I plug my camera in to get pictures off of it, the keyboard and/or mouse stop functioning and i receive an alert that says "power surge on hub port" or something similar. In order to get my keyboard and/or mouse to work again, i have to unplug my camera from the USB port and reset all ports. This just started happening today, even after I restarted. The error message in the picture below keeps coming up and closing itself in some kind of loop as I type this... Why does my camera cause other USB devices to malfunction when I plug it in the? Why does that error keep popping up every half a second? And, on top of all this, my tooth is throbbing for no apparent reason :( Help! -Nepheron

Question by nepheron   |  last reply


Electronic repair after a voltage spike or power surge

So far I was lucky and never got a lightning strike or other power failure to induce high voltages into my house and equippment. But over the time I got several requests from friends to take a look at things after literally all connected electronics in their house got fried. In some cases there is only a total write off as due to a lack of surge protectors inside all unwanted juice made it's way into vital components. Like a brand new Samsung TV where the replacement of the power board was the only option - which makes you wonder... But in other cases, like microwaves, induction cooktops, computers and such I had some good success with the repairs. Guess it comes down to purs luck on both sides, power surge was not too bad and simple components on the input side failed quickly enough to prevent damage to microprocessors or other sensitive parts. Right now I have an induction cooktop here again that failed after a mains transformer in street blew up during a thunderstorm. I can tell it was bad as everything in the area of fried parts has a vaporizsed metal film on the surface and not much is left that was a surge protection. I cleaned all up, replaced the varistors and missing parts of the traces on the circuit board but the cooktop is not performing the way it should anymore :( At some stage during cooking it turns off with a meaningless error code stating the input voltage was out of bounds. So my next attempt was to literally remove every single component from the filter and power supply board to measure for any possible connections between the traces. By doing so I noticed several points where I had a quite high but measurable resistance in areas where there should be none. Mostly on the direct input side where the varistors tried to save things. So I used my Dremel in a tin drill press to cut the circuit board aourd the affect areas (where possible with a drill, otherwise with a thin grinding disk).. Sure enough I was greeted by charcoal colored dust in several areas. After removing all material until the dust was "clean"  tried again and this time all seems to work fine. I would like to use this topic to offer some help and guidance in case you have devices that suffered a severe power surge of some sort. Many of us either have no insurance to replace those items or even if you do the device might be expensive enough to try a repair despite getting it replaced. Trust me, even it went up in smoke there is still a chance to fix it in some cases and if proper protective circuits were in place the repair could as cheap as a few Dollars for replacement parts. To get useful advice the following things should be included in your request: Some clear pictures showing a close up of the affected parts - if there is visibale damage to be seen. A brief description of what happened, e.g.: lightning strike directly into the house or outside power lines, generator or inverter failure or simply that the power company stuffed up and your entire street was affected. Of course you will need the means to take the device apart for investigation and also some basic soldering skills or somehow how has and can assist you. But if you are up to the challange I am willing to help if possible.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Voltage Stabilizer Efficiency Loss (Extra power consumption)

Hello All, I am using an 1KVA Voltage stabilizer for my Fridge. The power quality is really poor here in India, and these things are mandatory. I learnt the lesson hard way :-(.... Well that aside, i would like to know what would be the power loss or Extra consumption these devices use when regulating power. Actually,i could use a general lecture on how Stabilizers work!

Topic by bhvm   |  last reply


How to fix computer that won't turn on after power surge?

Recently we had some heavy rain and I had a few things blow out, including router, modem, desktop, and a few other things. But the question here is regarding the desktop that will not turn on after this storm and apparent power surge.  When I hit the power button, nothing happens. I bought a new power supply and it turns on again with only one problem. All the colors on my monitor display are very washed out and faded. I plugged the monitor into another working computer and it works fine so I know the problem isn't the monitor. The power supply unit that I purchased isn't exactly the same as the original since the original is a little old and hard to come by. So my question is what can I do to get my computer working like it used to be? The operating system is Windows Vista Home Premium and it is a Dell Studio XPS desktop. What do I need to replace to get my display working properly? If anyone can help me answer this it is much appreciated.

Question by Science102   |  last reply


Power strip measures energy use, costs much more than separate power strip and monitor

Again, anyone want to collaborate to make our own? This thing Cut down on energy costs and reduce your electric bill. Simply plug the easy-to-use Power Cost Controller with surge protection into the wall and connect your electronics to the power strip to see how efficient it really is. Large LCD display will count consumption and cost by the kilowatt-hour, same as your local utility. Monitor your electric consumption by hour, day, week, month, even an entire year. Also check the quality of your power by monitoring voltage, line frequency, and power factor. Measures 8-1800W appliances. Now you'll know how much your computer network or home media center really costs! Replaceable 1.5V battery included.

Topic by laminterious   |  last reply


Flash drive problems

EDIT: I found a flash drive, and it doesn't work. I plugged it into my computer, nothing. I plugged it into a laptop, and it said that there was a power surge in the usb device. Any ideas?

Topic by Aar000n3y   |  last reply


adjustable power supply question? Using a LM338?

so I'm building a power supply that will have multi power outputs, from surge protected 120,  36v 10a 24v 2.5a,  12v 3a  9v 1a, 12v 1a,  5v usb, and 12v cigarette lighter output. there is also an adjustable 1.25 to 32v  5 amp, the problem i'm having is no mater what set up I try, I never get more than 1.8 amps out of the LM338, I have an input of 36v 10a, I've tried several diagram , can anyone point me to a diagram that will actually allow a full 5amps to be pulled? I have the LM338 on a huge heat sink. 

Question by ihoppoet   |  last reply


Sometimes I accidently 'flip' On-Off-On the power switch of my TFT LCD, could this cause any harm to the LCD's circuits? Answered

Or the appliance has some protection against this? (my worry is that such on-off flipping cause some surge or arch). It's said that in modern PC LCD monitors like mine (where the power switch is just a touch sensitive area of the front bevel) most of the actual circuitry remains on all the time so I have nothing to worry about, is that correct?

Question by allymcbeal   |  last reply


LED indicator

How should I drive an LED from a 38 volts power supply? The led wizard says I need a 1800 ohm, 2 watt resistor, but it also says' it'll disipate excessive heat. I recently took apart a surge protector and found that they drive an LED from a 120volt source by having a diode, LED and what appears to be either a 1 or 2 watt resistor. I need help driving an LED from a 38 volts power supply just as an indicator.

Topic by guyfrom7up   |  last reply


My Hp compaq laptop has too many problems.

My hp compaq nc6220 is annoying me. It began to say power surge on hub port. I then began to freeze until i press on the keyboard area.It now doesn;t start up. I was thinking the problem was on the hard drive. Now i believe it is internal

Question by pk_excel   |  last reply


RCA Rear Projection TV worked, took apart, put back together, doesnt work?

I have a RCA HD52w56 rear projection tv that was working fine and the coaxial input was broken off. I took off the back and soldered a new coax input.  However I think I mixed up the wires. Now, the tv does the old turn on blink green and turn off, no picture. In fact, one time I just plugged it into surge protector, never pressed the power button, and didnt even have the coax connected and the same instant the power in another room in the house when out but the surge protector the tv was plugged into stayed on. weird   Does anyone have a schematic diagram so I can check if I hooked something up wrong? Not Manual(preferably free, college kid w no money) Did I blow something? Everything was working before the coax got pulled out Thanks for looking and any advice is greatly appreciated.

Question by FSUWakeboard   |  last reply


Convert 320VDC to 230VAC or 48VDC voltage using 230VAC (UK) UPS?

I've got access to 12 flexible Solar Panels - 320VDC each I live in the UK where mains voltage is 230VAC and also might buy an electric engine which would run at 48VDC. Would a UK voltage (230VAC) UPS be able to step down the 320VDC to either 230VAC or 48VDC for use on a boat? I'm thinking I could connect 12 panels in parallel and use either; Double-conversion UPS to deliver 48V by bypassing the conversion from the battery back to 230V or  Line-interactive UPS to deliver 230V directly from the 320VDC. The question is would the UPS's surge protection be able to deal with the high voltages? (Keeping in mind the sun isn't real bright in the UK). Also with regard efficiency will there be a lot of power loss in the system? I don't really know how surge protection from overvoltage works in UPS's and assume it uses some kind of buck conversion...? I'm guessing that the surge protection circuits might struggle with continued voltage overload. Does anyone know if this would be the case? The question is, will the UPS's be able to reliably deliver either 230VAC or 48VDC? Here are the specs for each individual panel; http://www.innoasia.net/2010/pdf/presentation/SmartCity_Takano.pdf Open circuit voltage(Voc): 429V Optimum power voltage(VMP):319 V Short circuit current(Isc): 0.39A Max operating current(IMP): 0.288A torrence:+_5% Maximum system voltage: 1000V THERMAL CHARACTERISTICS: (-25 ° C to +90 ° C) Temperature coefficient É‘Isc +0.08%/ ° C Temperature coefficient É‘Voc -0.35%/ ° C. Temperature coefficient É‘Pmax -0.15% / ° C. Over-current Protection 30mA

Question by mchin2   |  last reply


Less then 2 yr old flat screen - has died....I believe...

My 17" Gateway flatscreen went blank this morning while I was at meeting. My wife claims she didn't do anything.....that it was blank when she saw it. It was not in sleep mode, nor was a screen saver on. I noticed the "power button" which is normally green (power up, with computer signal) or amber (powered up w/out signal), would not come on. I attempted to see if any of the adjustments on the side might have been bumped, no effect. I tested to make sure there was power from the surge protector (switched power outlets after a shut down) to no avail. After my 4th reboot, I subbed in my old monster sized 17" CRT tube monitor, and it works fine. Resolution is different, but it works.....but that pushed the monitor about 2 feet closer to my nose then I would like (it is about 10 inches from my face. )Did I miss anything as far as testing the monitor before replacing it? I personally think the PSU in the monitor went on the fritz, but I am open to suggestions. EDIT: The old CRT is now back ni it's storage area, and the newest LCD screen is up and running.

Topic by Goodhart   |  last reply


Need a protection circuit?

Hi i am making my own speaker system. i am using this amp http://www.dealextreme.com/p/y148-audio-amplifier-module-93121 the issue im facing is that a few days ago i power this amp with a smps 12v 1amp supply and it was working fine till something went wrong with the psu and there was a spark in the psu, the major problem which occurred  was that this caused a surge which travelled through the amp to my audio source which in this case was my computer. i ended up frying my sound card . can anyone help me make some kind of protection circuit which allows audio signals to pass through but does not let current from the psu pass through.

Question by cfrek   |  last reply


Transistor get's really hot and doesn't seem to work. Answered

I'm trying to turn on and off a 12V dc motor/pump (it's one of the motors that squirts the water on your windshield to clean it). Just hooked directly up to the power supply it draws about 1.5A. When I turn on the switch, my transistor gets super hot, to the point I can smell it burning, and the motor does NOT turn on. It's an IRF510 transistor. I copied this circuit from a YouTube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-g0Q0e1mhIY&feature;=iv&src;_vid=nYjhYKeOOgI&annotation;_id=annotation_856844) and this guy seems to have gotten his version to work fine. I cannot figure out what's going on here. The wires in my picture that go off the table are connected to a 13V power supply on the ground. The diode attached to the motor is a 6A rectifier to handle the emf surge from turning the motor off. Let me know if you have any questions for me! IRF510 Datasheet: http://www.kitsandparts.com/IRF510.pdf

Question by Zamperweenie   |  last reply


High Voltage Ground

I'm starting to work with high voltages again, but for real this time. I just built an ignition coil driver, using a 555 (and I got an ignition coil), but my 555 broke (the texas instruments ones can only drive 15mA, oppose to the normal 200mA, oops) so I have to go buy one today. My main question is what to use for ground, whether it be for an old screwdriver for arcing sparks or the secondary of a tesla coil. I was originall just going to use the 3rd prong of an outlet, but somewhere on the internet I heard this could destroy all surge protected power strips and destroy all plugged in electronics at your house. I, of course, do not want this cause... well... I'd be screwed. Is this true or not? Can I use the 3rd prong?

Topic by guyfrom7up   |  last reply


Windows COA code Answered

Hello. My desktop computer`s hard drive corrupted a while ago due to a power surge and rendered it unusable. After consulting a computer savy friend he said I would need a new hard drive. I have finally began to repair it, I have bought a new hardrive and was wondering can I use my original COA code from windows XP to clean install Windows 7? The reason I ask is that windows 7 is very expensive from new, however you can get the offical disks with supposedly working COA codes for half the price on ebay. They say they are from de-activated computers however I am worried I will buy one and the code will already be in use or invalid. So as a backup would my original code work or would it say it is still in use? (P.s I am not interested in getting windows 8 or 8.1, I cannot afford it) Thankyou :)

Question by Boba Jett   |  last reply


Where do the leads of a zener diode connect to in a DC system? Answered

I have a light in my car that takes two incandescent type light bulbs, but when I use both sockets, the bulbs are broken open and some of the glass is melted in a couple weeks. I've bought plug and play LED lights that have multiple LEDs (with a resistor on both the cathode and anode) and just plug into the sockets, and I used both sockets, they lasted about two months. And since I had only one spare bulb in my center console, I plugged it in, and its been working for over a year (this is where I found out that using both sockets made the lights fail). I'm guessing that the when the engine starts, it sends a surge to the light. So I decided, that I'll just make my own light using LEDs, I have everything resistors LEDs and wire, but I'm unsure where to connect a zener diode/s to the LED array (or if a zener diode would even protect the array). I've looked on the net, but some say to solder inline and some say it needs to connect to the ground, and I cant tell which is right for my case. I've included the output of the LED calculator and the specs. below.     Source:                     12V     Diode Forward:       1.8     Diode Amps.:          20mA     Number in Series: 24    Solution 0: 6 x 4 array uses 24 LEDs exactly +----|>|----|>|----|>|----|>|----|>|----|>|---///----+ R = 68 ohms +----|>|----|>|----|>|----|>|----|>|----|>|---///----+ R = 68 ohms +----|>|----|>|----|>|----|>|----|>|----|>|---///----+ R = 68 ohms +----|>|----|>|----|>|----|>|----|>|----|>|---///----+ R = 68 ohms The wizard says: In solution 0: *each 68 ohm resistor dissipates 27.2 mW *the wizard thinks ¼W resistors are fine for your application *together, all resistors dissipate 108.8 mW together, *the diodes dissipate 864 mW total power dissipated by the array is 972.8 mW *the array draws current of 80 mA from the source.

Question by LuciferTengu   |  last reply