My dremel tool is spraking inside and the regulator thingy doesnt work...? Answered

1. My dremel makes a weird noise when i turn it on, and when i look inside through the venting holes i see sparks coming from the motor/magnet. It wasnt like this before and it runs slower now than before. 2. The roller thingy to regulate the speed (1,2,3,4,5,6 or max) only works on "max", if i turn it down the thing just stops working, but when i turn it up to max again it starts (at max speed of course) this isnt a very important acctually since i use max all the time, but its kinda annoying cuz it some times shuts off. My dremel is a CoTech model and only about 2-3 weeks old btw.

Question by ThaNorwegianDude   |  last reply

Why's my iron not heating properly?

I have a 25w soldering iron(made in India) which i bought online 3 months back. 2 months it worked fine but now it is not heating the solder properly and making very bad connections. Can anyone suggest me a solution? 

Question by Ankan Nayak   |  last reply

Any tips on winding a toroid properly? Answered

Every time I try to wind a toroid for a circuit, it never works or it is very temperamental and does not cooperate with me. Any advice on how to wind a better toroid?                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Thanks! 

Question by transistorguy   |  last reply

Why's my amp not working properly? Answered

I have recently built a stereo tda2030a amp. When I plug the power,input and outputs and switch it on, it makes a cracking noise and the left channel doesn't give any sound. I am not able to troubleshoot the actual cause. The schematic:  

Question by Ankan Nayak   |  last reply

Potentiometer and motor isn't working properly

Hello, I'm fairly new to electronics and i am currently working on project involving an adjustable motor. basically the circuit is just a nine volt battery going through a potentiometer and into a 6-9 volt motor. however the motor only spins when the potentiometer is turned to max. the potentiometer is a 10k.

Topic by kanp1   |  last reply

[Answered] Balance Control Not Working Properly?

Okay, I bought an older karaoke system, which I am using as a speaker for my iPod and an amp for my guitar.  As you have probably deducted from that, it has RCA stereo auxiliary inputs and 2 mic inputs.  I plug my iPod into the RCA aux in jacks, and it is sending out a stereo signal.  The cable I use is a special cable originally intended for an audio/video cable for my camera.  It's wiring scheme allows me to use it as a 3.5 mm (1/8 in) male audio plug to the two stereo, RCA male plugs.  I press play on my iPod, and of course music comes out.  The "amp" has a balance pot on it (pot meaning knob).  When the balance pot is centered, the left channel is full volume, but the right channel is weak.  To get the full right channel, I have to turn the pot all the way right, which of course blocks the left channel out.  There is a "sweet spot" around the 4 o clock position that evens out the channels, but they aren't as strong.

Question by KaydenST   |  last reply


Hi i am working on a project were i have a power source, a resistor, then an using a resistor and limiting the power to the LED will that make the life of my battery longer? any help would be greatly appreciated, thnx :-)

Question by ShOoP dUh WoOp   |  last reply

A Physics problem I can't explain properly Answered

If a stick with dm/dl =const is hanging on three nonstretchable pieces of string (l1=l2=l3 and l is the distance between them) you can't find the tensions, because the problem is unsolvable if all the strings don't stretch. It is kind of obvious, because if a string happens to be 0,00000000001 mm longer than the others the tension will be zero. But how to prove this normally?  Sorry, I almost never use English for Physics conversation, so I don't know any proper words...

Question by gruffalo child   |  last reply

solar circuit not working properly? any ideas?

I am building a solar powered charger for when I go on holiday, I know there are already some instructables on this but and can't seem to find anything to do with my problem. I use the solar panels to charge Ni-MH batteries  and when I test them in a simple circuit i.e. solar panels connected straight to the batteries, they charge but in my circuit below the battery connections on the casing heat up and the casing smokes. Obviously this is a problem but I don't know what is causing it. My schematic is below. Stu

Question by stuart576   |  last reply

My laptop is not connecting to my internet properly

I have a Toshiba laptop and for some reason lately it has not been connecting to my internet as well as it normally does. I only have like 2 bars of signal and it does not go any higher than that, my brother and my game consoles are fine so it is not my internet router. I have tried everything I know and nothing seems to work, I get disconnected from playing games every 10-20 minutes. If you have any suggestions please let me know. Thank you

Question by Shaynamaria   |  last reply

Palm Vx not connecting with computer and not charging properly?

Hi, I have a Palm Vx, and I wanted to put it good use, so I got it out from my cupboard and... I can't get it to work. It only turns on when it's charging, when I take it off the charger, 5 seconds later, it dies. Also, when I try to sync it with the computer, it comes up with the message: The connection between your handheld device and your computer cannot be established. I am plugging it in by 9 pin serial port on Windows XP, I don't think the serial port is active, because when I go; Setup \ local. There is no com port that can be selected! Please help!!! NM

Question by NatNoBrains 

Can't properly flash Attiny85, please help.

I have working proto of a bathroom exhaust fan controlled by methane sensor via arduino uno. I now wish to transfer this sketch to an ATtiny85 (cause i had extras). I have programmed ATtiny before, and can successfully get 'blink' going on this specific MCU. However I cannot get my sensor sketch to work properly... Perhaps I am asking too much of this little guy? I am including my code and video in hopes that someone can steer me in the right direction.  /*   AT85      Arduino    Circuit   0 (PB5)   A0             pin 3 of 50k pot   2 (PB7)   ~9             led or relay     Trim Pot        1              GND   2              GND   3              Arduino (attiny) & Sensor B1     Sensor   A1             +5VDC   H1             GND   GND            GND   B1             Trim Pot 3   */   const int numReadings = 10;    // average sensor reading used from 10 samples int ledPin = 1;                  // replaced ac/dc relay with led to debug int readings[numReadings];      // the readings from the analog input int index = 0;                  // the index of the current reading int total = 0;                  // the running total int average = 0;                // the average int inputPin = 0;    //reading from sensor unsigned long start_time; unsigned long current_time; unsigned long elapsed_time; void setup() {   // sets digital pin 1 to output   pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);     // sets analog 0 to input   pinMode(inputPin, INPUT);   // initialize all the readings to 0:   for (int thisReading = 0; thisReading < numReadings; thisReading++)     readings[thisReading] = 0;          } void loop() {         // 10 sample average used to prevent false positive from a bounce and/or spike         // subtract the last reading:   total= total - readings[index];           // read from the sensor:    readings[index] = analogRead(inputPin);   // add the reading to the total:   total= total + readings[index];         // advance to the next position in the array:    index = index + 1;                      // if we're at the end of the array...   if (index >= numReadings)                  // ...wrap around to the beginning:     index = 0;                             // calculate the average:   average = total / numReadings;           // send it to the computer as ASCII digits          delay(1000); // delay in between reads for stability                    int threshold = 300;                  // sets the threshold value   if(average > threshold){  // determines if the level of methane breaks threshold         start_time = millis();      // starts exhaust fan on 5 min timer     digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);      do  {       current_time = millis();      // defines the 5 minute timer       elapsed_time = current_time - start_time;     }     while(elapsed_time < 300000); // 5 min. countdown   }     if(average < threshold){      // sensor is checked against threshold       digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);  // fan turns off if sensor value below threshold     }                             // or stays on until it is below threshold     } thanks in advance!

Question by earthtown   |  last reply

McWire CNC controller wont function properly. Suggestions?

I built a McWire CNC controller and it won't function properly. I measured 19 volts at the A//B terminals when I sent a signal to the circuit via KCAM but I measured a constant 1.5 volts at B-/A- regardless of whether or not I sent a signal to it. I am pretty sure that I wired up the circuit correctly. The motor will "stiffen up" when I jog it with KCAM but it won't rotate. Any help would be appreciated because I am at my wits end with this thing. Thanks in advance!

Question by abadon   |  last reply

How to use lasercut t-slots properly in a design?

I am in the process of designing a laser cut 3D Printer with some of my friends. I have never used a laser cutter before. We are trying to use t-slots that are similar to those used on the old makerbots. Does anyone have a suggestion of the lengths of the slots and the frequency (spacing between joints)? Thanks!

Question by thekendall   |  last reply

How do I properly power my electromagnet?

I just purchased an electromagnet from Amazon for a small prop for an upcoming play I am directing. Now my problem is... I do not have a clue as to how to supply the power to it. It needs to be able to run steady for roughly 3 hours.  What size batteries would I need -the smaller the better in terms of size since the prop itself is not that large,  ut will do whatever is necessary to function properly. Here is the only information the electromagnet had attached to it: 'Feature: Electric lifting magnet Powerful and compact Smooth and flat surface Low consumption and reliable Applications: assembly line, sorting machine, mechanical arm, experimental facility, etc Specification:Material: Metal Input Voltage: 12V DC Lifting Force :20N Overall Size : 15 x 15 mm /0.6 x 0.6 inch(Dia. *T) Thread DIA : 3mm Lead Length : 24cm/9. 5 inch" Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advanced!

Question by DeanB77   |  last reply

Johnny Walker Game caller wont work properly

Guys(and gals) i need help once again. While I was looking in my friends garage i saw a Johnny Walker game caller and these things are expensive so i asked him about it and he said it didnt work. So ofcourse i offered to try and fix it, and he said if i can that i can use it anytime. (and if you have a good memory, you will remember the post i made about how to make one of these game callers) Well, its power supply is 12 volts DC, 2 6v batteries ran in a series. and they are rechargeable by the way. when i plug the recharging plug(you dont remove the batteries to recharge, there is a port right under the place for the cassette) and hit the power button the red LED(that signals power) is at full strength for about half a second then fades to a wimpy red color. at the same time the LED is at its full power there is a noise coming over the speaker and the noise dies once the LED dims. Any suggestions?

Topic by ledzep567   |  last reply

List of solutions to IE not displaying web pages properly? Answered

I've been doing a bit of web design recently. My site looks great in firefox but in internet explorer the unordered lists for the menu are double spaced making it look a bit naff. After a bit of googling I couldn't find anything on it but wondered if any iblers had come across a list of common problems with html and css that makes internet explorer display it differently? (Pictures: firefox on left, IE on right)

Question by Jayefuu   |  last reply

How to properly setup an undefined numbers of piezos for drumming ?

Hello everybody ! I'm currently into a really cool project which gives me quite hard times. To begin, I'm a big noob in electronics, but I'm decent in programming. So i'm able to understand, learn or correct myself easily when it's about code, but I'm really in the dark for everything concerning electronics despite the fact that I read so much about it recently... My projet ------------ My goal is to make my own MIDI drum kit. Not a new idea, but the difference is that I want to use lot of pads. I bought some WII, XBOX and PS drum kits that I disassembled to get just de pads. Then I bought an Arduino Uno, not a mega because I'm a beginner and I can totally start with a small amount of pads, also I wanted the perfect solution in terms of compatibility etc. STEP ONE : 1 pad -------------------- So, I first made a prototype with 1 pad, which was very easy to do, since there is billion of officials and unofficials tutorials about how to connect a piezo to the Arduino. So basically, on my breadboard its like that (except im on A0 not A2) : So I connected my pad to the Arduino with a 1 Mohm resistor in parallel and I made a program which function very very well. You can read it the : The only challenge here was to set proper threshold and delay so the signal is clean when I hit the pad with a drumstick, to integrate the MIDI library and finally to find a software that makes the informations i send available in any of my favourites music softwares (Ableton Live, Maschine, ...), this software is Hairless Serial to MIDI, btw. STEP TWO : X pads --------------------------- It's when I'm getting troubles. At first I believed that all I needed to do was to reproduce the same schematic but "duplicate it" x times. So I tried with 4 pads. I used the same strategy on my breadboard : each pad is connected in parallel with a 1 M ohm resistor, but all are connected to ground. You can see it there : The code, take the old one, but just loop on the 4 pins : So here are the 2 issues : - The pad on the left is OK, like with my 1st program, the second one is still ok, the third one I have to hit a bit hard, the fourth one I have to hit VERY hard. - When I hit a pad, it seems it send electricity in others pins, I say that because when i connect the Arduino to a music software, hiting a pad = having multiples notes at the same time. For the hitting force issue, I'vre tried to play with resistances, puting higher or lower values and I got totally lost with that : nothing seemed to be better. About that "leaking" issue, I thought it could be useful to put some diodes, as i heard diodes are usefull when you want to make the current going in one way only, but when i watch some others schematics, i see no diodes and only 1 Mohms resistors everywhere, so I really don't know what is wrong and what to do. Here is the MIDI xylophone someone made and posted on instructables : I have no idea why this is working and why there is ground directly linked to these analog pins, and many other things i cannot understand. Any help would be really appreciated ! :)

Question by AnthonyJ7   |  last reply

My psp(2000) right speaker isnt working properly Answered

It rustles when i play music theres no dust in there anybody know how i can fix it ?

Question by la-main   |  last reply

my soldering iron isnt working properly! PLZ HELP ?

I have just brought a brand new soldering iron. I just plugged it in and kept it aside for a minute (so that it becomes hot ). after a minute or so Inoticed my iron's color gradually became darker (from silver to black). Its a brand new product and now it is not getting hot faster.please help

Question by ashish_scientific   |  last reply

Arduino Floppy Music: Random .mid doesn't work properly

Hello :) I use a Arduino Mega  2560 and 3 floppy drives. If I start one of the example songs then the 3 floppy drives work. But if I convert a random song in .mid and play it only the first floppy drive will work... I changed same settings ine the MoppyDesk but it didn't work. Can you help me?

Topic by JaniJPK   |  last reply

This arduino code does not work as expected, any help? there seems to be an issue with the digitalWrite function. Answered

Recently, I wanted to make a laboratory grade linear semi-precision power supply using an Arduino, LCD, some comparators, and MOSFETs. Idealistically, I want measurements to be 3 significant figures of precision (0.1% accuracy @ 30V), voltages as high as 30V, and max current of 10A. The power supply is most likely going to be just a single regulated output, maybe if I feel lucky I will make 2 regulated outputs once I get the darn Arduino code to work. The Arduino's job is to simply set and read the output voltage, and is not part of the control loop. That is what the comparators are for. (I learned the hard way that using the Arduino within the control loop just results in parasitic oscillations because the Arduino is a clocked device and can only self correct at timed intervals.) Anyway, below is the code. I made explanations of all portions of it as clear as possible, and I also give the wiring used for the LCD, 4 buttons, and analog inputs used to set and read the voltage and current. However, the issue arises when I upload the code, the setVI button does not work unless I press both it and the RS button at same time. I made the many of the integers display in the serial output to diagnosing easier hopefully. I can see the setVI integer and my dudd integer only goes HIGH when  either it and the RS buttons are pressed simultaneously, or when the RS butten is held down for a long enough time. However, as far as I am aware, nowhere in the code do I manipulate that code so setVI goes HIGH dependant on other buttons, so I am bewildered by this parasitic phenomenon. Is my Arduino MEGA broken? I had a similar problem in the past, where I had multiple analogRead statements It strangely seemed to factor in the outputs of other input pins. Anyway, here is the code. Maybe someone could upload it and tell me if it functions properly on their arduino? That would help me determine if it is indeed a software issue. (p.s. I use an Arduino ripoff called the Funduino, but it is not broken in any way, I don't think?) Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance, -Max-. p.s. To make the code below legible, please copy/paste it in an IDE or in notepad and convert it into a monospaced font, it will make it very easy to follow. //---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------// /* Arduino Software for lab power supply. Wireing guide:        **Wiring for 16x2 LCD:**       * LCD RS pin to digital pin 12       * LCD Enable pin to digital pin 11       * LCD D4 pin to digital pin 5       * LCD D5 pin to digital pin 4       * LCD D6 pin to digital pin 3       * LCD D7 pin to digital pin 2       * LCD R/W pin to ground       * 10K resistor:       * ends to +5V and ground       * wiper to LCD VO pin (pin 3)    **Wiring for buttons:**       * RS       button to pin 6  (as a digital input) -- Switches from reading read current/voltage values to setting those values, and Vice Versa.       * VIselect button to pin 7 (as a digital input) -- Switches to the 'set' mode and flips from setting the voltage to setting the current.       * UP       button to pin 8  (as a digital input) -- Increments the voltage or current up when in the 'set' mode.       * DOWN     button to pin 9  (as a digital input) -- Increments the voltage or current up when in the 'set' mode.    **Analog inputs/outputs:**       *A0   -- Measures a potential of a resistor divider that can output a voltage of 0-5V based on the 0-30V output this PSW capable of.       *A1   -- Measures the current flow through a resistor to measure current. (Some reason there seems to be a pulldown resistor on this pin, so the voltage does not float.)       *Vout -- This will be later implemented if I get a DAC, for the increased resolution. (1024 is just not enough in my opinion. At least 12 bits)       *Aout -- This will be later implemented if I get a DAC, for the increased resolution. (1024 is just not enough in my opinion. At least 12 bits) */ int UP    = 0;      // These are the 2 buttons used to incrementally int DOWN  = 0;      // step up or down the voltage on the output int RS = 0;         // These 2 buttons tell the LCD to either read out the voltage on the analog pins. (I plan to change this so it reads from a 14 bit ADC and writes int setVI = 0;      // the voltage output through a 14 (or 16 bit) bit ADC. I need 3 significant digits, or at least 0.1% accuracy. int dudd = 0;       // this dudd (dummy variable) is just here to prove that digitaslreading pin 7 works very weird! Any help on this? int preRS = 1;      // Anything with a "Pre" before it is simply what said integer/variable on the last loop. I use these to prevent a parasitic int presetVI = 1;   // oscillation of states that they control, so when a button is pressed, it will not jump between 2 states every cycle. int preUP    = 0; int preDOWN  = 0; float Aset = 0.00;  // I need these to be "floated" so I can set the exact value of these to 3 significant digits. float Vset = 0.00;  // Aset and Vset define what the output voltage *should* be, and are defined with the UP/DOWN buttons. int VIselection = 1;// this variable will invert when Aset button is pressed. Similar to the IVselect, this number will also invert int READorSET = 1;  // Bset button is pressed. This allows the mode to be changed from SET mode or the READ output mode, thus allowing                     // one to compare the output voltage and current to the set value, as well as set the output voltage and current. #include LiquidCrystal lcd(12, 11, 5, 4, 3, 2);// initialize the library with the numbers of the interface pins void setup() { //-------------------------// I tried making diagnosting this thing easier by making all the important data availible in the serial monitor.   lcd.begin(16, 2);   Serial.begin(9600);   Serial.print("INPUTS         RS:           READorSET:       setVI & dudd:        VIselection:");   Serial.println(""); } void loop() {   float V = (30.00*analogRead(A0))/1024.00;   //These are what I use to read the voltage output of my power supply. I will have a voltage divider on the output,   float A = (15.000*analogRead(A1))/1024.000; //to limit the voltage range from 0-30V to 0-5V. Same concept goes for the current measurement.   int dudd  = digitalRead(7);//   RS    = digitalRead(6);//RS stands for "Read/set"   setVI = digitalRead(7);//VI is stands for "Current/Voltage set"   UP    = digitalRead(8);//UP is simply a button used to set voltage & current   DOWN  = digitalRead(9);//DOWN is simply a button used to set voltage & current     if(presetVI == LOW && setVI == HIGH){VIselection = -VIselection;}   if(preRS    == LOW && RS    == HIGH){READorSET   =   -READorSET;}     Serial.print("\t        ");  // prints an inital space.     Serial.print(RS);            // prints the RS reading. It should be '1' when pin 7 is HIGH.     Serial.print("\t        ");     Serial.print(READorSET);     // prints the READorSET reading. This should only change when the RS button is pressed.     Serial.print("\t        ");     Serial.print(setVI);         // prints the setVI reading. It should be '1' when pin 7 is HIGH.     Serial.print("\t");     Serial.print(dudd);         // prints the setVI reading. It should be '1' when pin 7 is HIGH.     Serial.print("\t        ");     Serial.println(VIselection); // prints the VIselection reading. This should only change when the setVI button is pressed.         //if(presetVI == LOW && setVI == HIGH && READorSET == 1) {READorSET = -READorSET; VIselect = -VIselect;}      // This line of code just makes so that when I need to go from the voltage read screen to      // the set mode, I can just press the VIselect button. It just makes things more intuitive, but could be      // causeing the error, so I nulled it. I also nulled it out another portion that will keep the voltage or      // current setting the same when using the VI buttton to select the set mode. (otherwise it has to be      // double pressed to return to, say, the current setting, if that is where you left off.)   if(UP == HIGH && DOWN == LOW && VIselection == -1){if(Aset <= 10.00) {Aset += 0.05;}}   if(DOWN == HIGH && UP == LOW && VIselection == -1){if(Aset >= 0.10) {Aset -= 0.05;}}     if(UP == HIGH && DOWN == LOW && VIselection == 1) {if(Vset <= 30.00) {Vset += 0.05;}}   if(DOWN == HIGH && UP == LOW && VIselection == 1) {if(Vset >= 0.05) {Vset -= 0.05;}}     if (RS == HIGH){digitalWrite(13, 1);}   if (RS == LOW){digitalWrite(13, 0);} //============================================================================================================//   if (READorSET == 1){      //this is the defualt screen, and shows the output voltage and current.     lcd.clear();              lcd.setCursor(0, 0);     lcd.print("VOLTAGE:");     lcd.setCursor(0, 1);     lcd.print("CURRENT:");     lcd.setCursor(10, 0);     lcd.print(V);     lcd.setCursor(15, 0);     lcd.print("V");     lcd.setCursor(10, 1);     lcd.print(A);     lcd.setCursor(15, 1);     lcd.print("A");   }   if (READorSET == -1){   // This is the portion of the code allowing me to set the current and voltage     lcd.clear();          // using the up/down buttons.       if (VIselection == -1){         lcd.setCursor(0, 0);         lcd.print("  SET CURRENT:");         lcd.setCursor(5, 1);         lcd.print(Aset);         lcd.print("A ");       }       if(VIselection == 1){         lcd.setCursor(0, 0);         lcd.print("  SET VOLTAGE:");         lcd.setCursor(5, 1);         lcd.print(Vset);         lcd.print("V ");       }   } //============================================================================================================//   presetVI = setVI; // At the end of each loop, the current variable settings that were used are set equal   preRS = RS;       // to the 'pre' versions of the code. This allows me to basically measure the when                     // the button is initially pressed, and/or released. Using this method with the delay()                     // function, however, is a bit buggy, but I did have it working well enough before. If you                     // tap the button too quickly. You almost have to hold it for a split second. If you                     // know a better, simpler way of doing this, please tell me, thank you.                       delay(80);        // The delay helps stabilize the reading on the LCD, but if it is too large, than the                     // refresh rate suffers, and the buttons respond slower. However, setting too low will                     // cause the reading on the display to change so rapidly, it is illegible. }

Question by -max-   |  last reply

How exactly should an LED circuit be properly set up?

I know LEDs need resistors or else they'll die out really fast. The problem is, I'm having trouble figuring out how this needs to be done. Lets say I take this LED: White 70° Diffused 5mm LED: Luminous Intensity: 690mcd typ. @ 20mA Max Forward Current: 30mA Pulse Current: 100mA for <= 10ms, duty <= 1/10 Forward Voltage: 3.6V typ. 4.0V max @ 20mA Max Reverse Voltage: 5V Power Dissipation: 120mW Operating Temp: -30 to +85 C Soldering Temp: 265 C for 10 secs Max Reverse Current: 50uA @ 5V ok so it has a current of 20mA and a forward voltage of 3.6V. Now, If I wanted to power 6 of these with AA or AAA batteries How many would I need and what ohm resistors would I need? It's been a long time since I took a class on electrical currents, and it was pretty basic. Also, looking at the Reverse Voltage, what is that? Is that if I put the batteries in the opposite direction, i.e. Send the voltage INTO the - and out the + ends? I've been researching this but its hard to find the right answer. Lets say I'm making a basic serial circuit with the batteries here (lined up).

Question by joshka89   |  last reply

gyro callibration

When my gyro is powered externally the gyro is not callibrating properly but if it is connected with arduino it is callibrating properly please look at my issue

Topic by SoofiyanA1   |  last reply

How to properly bridge 2 mono jacks using a 1uf capacitor and connect to rheostat?

Hello everyone, I am struggling on the proper way connect a few parts in my power source. At the moment I am about to wire my rheostat to a mono jack. From there I need to wire a 1uf capacitor to a 2nd mono jack. I do not understand where to connect each wire. I know how to wire the rheostat to the first jack but from there I do not know how to properly bridge the 2 jacks with the capacitor. I know I need to connect both jacks but how do I wire this? Do I connect the capacitor between both "ground" leads on the jacks? Does this also constitute  connecting both jacks in general? Also, the 2nd jack will be connected to the rest of the negative circuit in the source. I really hope I explained this well enough. I am new to electronics and I am still not that familiar with terminology so please bare with me. I would appreciate any help offered. Thank you in advance!

Question by alp0204   |  last reply

Adding backlighting to an Ultraflat Logitech Keyboard.? Answered

I would like to add backlighting to my Ultraflat Logitech Keyboard but don't know how to do this properly, any help will be appreciated. Additional Details: USB powered, Author doesn't properly understand circuit diagrams.

Question by imnotarealaccount   |  last reply

I've upgraded to PRO and I can't seem to get the instructables pdf files to print properly.

 The instructables that I either download will not print correctly.  I might get the index nicely printed, but every page after that looks like it is in a foreign language.  I am a pro member.

Question by Ondraya   |  last reply

FM Transmitter: Please help decode diagram/power properly (Mandarin or Catonese would be helpful)

I just need to figure out how to power this thing! Notice the positive marks in both upper corners, the negative in both lower? The large circle is the microphone, which is fully wired. The smaller circle is the frequency modulation, which is all set as well. The underside only has holes where the gray squares are and is otherwise clean (exception being one spot where the two mounting prongs of the microphone pushed through.) Thanks

Topic by owhy   |  last reply

Why doesn't my internet work properly on my laptop but it works fine on my PC?

Hey, can someone please help me? I have this problem and its really frustrating. My problem is..When I connect to the internet it usually says I have internet connection but Google Chrome says "The web page cant be loaded" and after a few minutes my internet connection goes down and says I have no internet access. So I reconnect to the internet and the same thing happens, I repeat the process and a few times it works but only for a few minutes and then it happens again. (The internet works perfectly fine on other laptops and phones but its just mine for some reason). I asked this on another site and someone told me to go to "My Computer" and then right click it, then go manage, then to click on "Device Manager" and then click on "Network Adapters" and to double click on each of the Intel (R) things there. Then to click on the power manager tab and untick the box that is ticked. I have also done this: 1. Click Start, go to control panel. 2. Click Network and Internet. 3. Click Networking and Sharing Center. 4. Click Change adapter settings 5. Find your wireless adapter, right click it, and click Properties. 6. Scroll down to Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4), and double click it. 7. Click the radio button that says "Use the following DNS server addresses:" 8. Put for the Preferred DNS server, and for the Alternate DNS server. 9. Click OK and test your internet. Can anyone please help me?

Question by Asghar123   |  last reply

Can I detatch the cylinder from a typewriter so that the bell and sliding mechanism still properly function?

I have an idea for modding a nerf gun involving attatching a typewriter cylinder to it so that either firing or cocking the gun causes the cylinder to "Ding".  Is it possible to safely detatch the cylinder of an old typewriter so that the sliding mechanism and bell still function correctly?  Also, could someone please provide me with a chart of the individual mechanisms within an antique typewriter? Thank you Instructables.

Question by Spiderdog3000 

I'm having unknown issues getting an ultrasonic cleaner hack to function properly - send an electrical engineer.

I'm hacking a cheap ultrasonic cleaner to run for an indefinite period of time instead of 8 minutes max. It works well enough with a switch soldered directly onto the main board, but I intend to leave it for hours and I can't have the thing burning out so I've got an attiny85 running as a simple timer (can't get a 555 running accurately for the periods I need). The ultrasonic transducer is controlled through a transistor and relay which I'm using to my advantage. I've got it hooked up to the built in 5v supply through a switch on the ground and flip the attiny pin tied to the transistor high. Really it's all tied  right to the brain board connector for convenience. It only sort of works. I've tested the attiny to death so I know the code works, it's just the arduino blink program with numbers changed. When I flip the switch, it supplies power to the attiny and I hear a transformer buzz and the xducer fails to turn on. The screen doesn't dim any which I'd expect from being underpowered. When I hit the machine's on button it does turn on and when I hit the off button or let the time run out the machine stays on (small success). Once the timer cycles though it won't turn back on, which functionally makes it like I've added a 25 minute timer. I suspect it may be something to do with not enough current to get the transistor started, but enough to keep it conducting. Perhaps if I connect the attiny directly to the base of the transistor instead of through the 10K resistor on the main board it'll work properly. Then again I know basically nothing about what I'm doing and should feel lucky that I managed to hack it this far without electrocuting myself. Update: It get's weirder. I stuck a 20k pot on the output of the attiny and hooked it directly onto the base of the transistor, bypassing a 10k resistor, and it runs constantly regardless of the inputs. I hook it up before the resistor and the behavior remains as before.

Question by The Ideanator   |  last reply

My Jailbroken iPod Touch 2nd Gen wont install apps from the App Store... HELP PLEASE!!!

My 2nd gen ipod touch jailbroken CORRECTLY by quick freedom, and has worked properly for a month will not properly install apps from the app store. Here is what happens: 1. go into app store and click install app, 2. I enter my password and the buy now button now says installed, but IT IS NOT ON THE HOME SCREEN. On the first occurence of this, it made a lot of bookmarks.PLEASE HELP!?

Question by robots199   |  last reply

Is making a speaker with an amplifier on a breadboard a good idea? Answered

Is making a speaker with an amplifier on a breadboard a good idea will it create distortion can it function properly ps. Ill be using an lm386 and an 8 ohm speaker thanks

Question by TheGreatResistor   |  last reply

How do you replace msgina.dll for windows xp?

I want replace this file because the windows xp shutdown menu isn't displaying properly

Question by pk_excel   |  last reply

LiPoly charging question?

Hi Everyone, I am creating a 6 cell pack (first time as you can tell) of LiPoly batteries 14.8V 5A it will have 3 groups in series of 2 in parallel for a 44.4V 10A pack. In order to properly charge and maintain the batteries does anyone have any recommendations for a good balance charger from hobbyking or elsewhere? Also in order to properly charge them should I charge each of the 6 cells individually, or charge the 3 packs of 2 in parallel using these?  Thanks for your help.

Question by Hammock Boy   |  last reply

I have purches a humidity sensor HS230. it has 4 pins. but i cant understand how to connect it properly.?

I cant understan where i connect Vcc and ground and from which pin i get output. please help me.

Question by dev1311   |  last reply

Barometric pressure sensor

I am working on my handmade radiosonde system and finding an altimeter that can be used in radiosonde(properly working in at least altitude of 80km) and compatible with arduino. Is there any altimeter that can meet my requirement?

Topic by LeeS182   |  last reply

Hacking a sea perch with a camera but now it won't work Answered

We added a camera to our sea perch but now it won't submerge properly. Are there any suggestions or any sites that would help with the modifications to the sea perch?

Question by connorsjo   |  last reply

Arduino flash memoru using PROGMEM

I have called a 2 D array in Arduino Mega2560.It is working well in Ram.If am using Flash memory using PROGMEM it is giving faulty results.Please help me to use flash memory properly.

Topic by parvatyele   |  last reply

Can't see whole Pop up box on the screen

I can't properly edit my profile because the top of the pop up box is beyond the top of my screen.  I can't scroll up to se it.

Question by cehnes   |  last reply

470 uf cap 10v vs a 470 uf cap 100v? Answered

If the specs call for a 470uf 10v cap. Would everything still work properly with a 470uf 100v cap? What might change? 

Question by WWC   |  last reply

I cant install libraries for eagle

I'm running mint 10 and having trouble installing the sparkfun library in eagle 5.10, the latest version (5.11) doesn't even install properly. Does anybody have a solution for this?

Question by The Ideanator 

What will happen if i use a capacitor that has a farad measurement that is less than what is required ?

The voltage limit is properly matched, only the farad measurement is not the same. IMPORTANT WILL THE CAPACITOR EXPLODE?

Question by La Tour Rouge   |  last reply

Is there a specific waveform that needs to be produced by the driver electronics in a solid state tesla coil?

Is there a specific waveform (for example sine, square, sawtooth, ramp, etc) that the driver electronics (an oscillator i think?) in a solid state tesla coil in order to properly drive the coil?

Question by UbuntuNinja   |  last reply

Help Please - Voice Recorder Breakout Board

 Can someone who has used the ISD1932 breakout board please post an explanation of how to connect it to the arduino properly. I'm finding it impossible. Three days of trying.

Topic by stuarthooper   |  last reply

8x8x8 RGB led cube build, requesting assistance so I can make it properly. Can anybody give advice?

I just purchased 600 common anode RGB led's and I want to make a 8x8x8 led cube based off this video and channel. I was wondering if everyone/anyone could help explain how it works to me (for understanding and troubleshooting), Help me simplify the wiring design. (Maybe custom pcb's? I've never made them before however). I was going to use the 777 from here And help me get something for a code that I can understand? I want to integrate my Arduino uno. Yet I'm not sure how or how to write code for it. I've tried a few times to learn but it seems to be a very hard task. Lastly, I want to integrate sound visualization into my cube, maybe as a separate device I can plug into it? run off my pc? I want to make it do very complex light shows etc. I feel like this is a lot to ask but I also feel that this would be a fun idea to play with. I appreciate any feedback Thanks!

Question by 'earl   |  last reply

my arduino is not recognized by system? Answered

My arduino UNO was working properly...but suddenly it is not recognzed by laptop...when i connect it to laptop only green power led on but L,Tx,Rx remains off....when i connect it laptop does not respond....i am using Windows7

Question by UsmanR1   |  last reply

Replacing IC's with components

It it possible to use simple components, arranged properly, in order to replicate the use of a simple IC, such as the 555 or LM386? If so, where could I find diagrams of the internal electronics? Google has turned up nothing so far... Thanks!

Topic by jeffconnelly   |  last reply

Wiring a 12v remote switch?

Hi all, I have a small 12v forge blower which runs off a golf cart battery, at the moment it just has a toggle switch on the + to turn it on and off. I'm looking to show off at a meet up (for fun I'm not really a show off) and really want to wire it up to one of those car key fob type remote switches. I'm a complete noob when it comes to this type of wiring and would really be grateful if someone explain how to do it properly and what the correct switch to use is. I have looked at a few schematics but I don't know how to follow them properly. Thanks in advance Adam P.s it needs to one press to turn on and stay on and one press to turn off.

Question by Squibo   |  last reply