Hi, i'm working on a project, and i need a high range transmitter to send a signal to a receiver from a distance of at least 1 mile (1.6 Km) is it possible ? Thanks :)
Question by fox.sadik | last reply
I'm trying to find a range finder that can measure distances less than 1 meter and puts out a 0-5v signal based on the range. It needs to refresh quickly and be accurate to +/- 2 cm. It is measuring distance to the ground which will be pretty flat. Thanks in advance for guidance.
Question by LosV2 | last reply
Http://www.lucidscience.com//projects/Basic%20Spy%20Transmitter/8.jpg This all relates to the picture linked to above I was not sure if I could put an amplifier before the antenna to boost the signal going to the antenna extending the range anyone know for sure it seems to make sense
Question by Algag | last reply
Can anyone recommend a good instructable to boost the reception range for my computer's wifi device? I know there are tons of them on here already, I just need to know which ones might have the longest range. Another thing is what design would be best. The kind involving a parabolic dish/mesh to direct signals to a usb dongle. One that is more of an omni direction antenna. One that makes use of one of the old sattelite tv dishes sitting in the garage. Requesting advice, comrades.
Topic by Kozar | last reply
I bought a FM transmitter for an ipod. I would like to boost the range of the device. (I know it is illegal but would like to get more range than 2 feet.) I think I need to build an external antenna but need to know where to hook it up to the thing. The transmitter I have is a ge FM transmitter for ipod.If anyone has done anything like this or have any useful links it would be great. I don't know anything about circuit making so help would be great on that as well.
Topic by thejrb | last reply
I have a project in which I need a stationary device (A) to pair with/detect a mobile device (B) and only that device. Once detected/paired, I need device B to light up when pulled out of range from device A. I also need to be able to adjust this range in some manner. I was looking at RFID, but I am worried about interferance from other RFID tags. Not sure if bluetooth could even do what I want in the size that I need (no more than 2x2x.25 inches for either device.) ANyone have any suggestions?
Question by Etrogann | last reply
Hello. I got a Wireless Mouse that still working fine.The signal between the Mouse and its receiver is not so great, about half meter, and it stop responding. So I took apart the Mouse and its Receiver. The antenna of the Mouse is kind of steal (I think but its color) and the one of the receiver is coil of very thing copper about 3/4 turns around a piece of plastic. So as said I would like to increase the signal between both, for better rang. What I have found around the best material is copper, so here is my issue. Is it better to modify the antenna of the Mouse or its receiver?? Should I rather use thicker Copper Wire and do few spinning around a piece of plastic, or use a thinner Copper Wire and do a lot of spin around a piece of plastic. So what better for a strong signal: - thicker wire and less spinning or - thinner Wire and more spinningThanx for those that would give a some advise/recommendations. I am will upload pictures later when possible. PS: I manage to add to it a Switch to turn off the mouse to extend battery Life.
Question by saadland | last reply
Idea is to slightly modify the annoy a tron circuit to turn on a laser pointer at a specific time interval, then back off... Then i would put this into my lego mindstorms robotic thingy that will point the laser to random points on the walllink to annoy a tron: https://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade_Annoy_a_thing_Annoy_a_tron/thats all great and a work in progress, really just background inforeal question, just askin, is what technologies are there that would allow a microcontroller to "sense" where the laser is pointing and then to link that info to an sensor that would find where the bb bullet hits? Then just give me a percentage of how far off i was from the dot, maybe in the form of an LED bargraph display like this one: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G8942this isnt something i expect to do, but i want to do something with 555s and this looks like a pretty cool ideato clarify, on the top part, the laser and lego mindstorms are 2 separate systems, one is simply mounted on the other, but by using the same timings it is possible to make them work synchronously... its a work in progress, stay tuned if interested
Question by raykholo
I need it to do something only when an input from a sensor gives an input such as 300, all the way up to 400
Question by wii552 | last reply
How would you use an array of ultrasonic sensors to determine the 3d position of an ultrasonic transmitter. Basically i want an ultrasound transmitter on my hand that gets picked up on an array of 5 or so receivers that outputs the position via usb.
Topic by redshirtdeath | last reply
These are the specs off a multimeter im about to buy. are these enough to do electronic projects off instructables.com, fixing electronics, and etc? if not then what do i need then? thanks DC Voltage: 200mV-1000V AC Voltage: 2V-700V Temperature: 20°-1000°C Resistance: 200Ω-20MΩ DC Current: 2mA-20A AC Current: 20mA-200mA Capacitance: 2nF-20µF Frequency: 10Hz-20kHz
Topic by leader1 | last reply
Hi there, I would like to access my WiFi from my apartment, when I am at work. Distance between the two is about 0.5 - 1 mile. How would I go about doing that? I did some research and most likely I would need to set up 1 antenna transmitting the signal from my apartment, to a 2nd antenna at my work receiving the signal. The receiving antenna though, I would like to be small and not as awkward like. I work in an industrial plant, that is built out of solid concrete, as I say that, I do get good reception inside there, just don't know about WiFi though.. Good news perhaps is, I work nearby a big garage door, so maybe I could get signal from there. Anyways, If you got suggestions please let me know. Thanks!
Question by Scriptom | last reply
Hey everybody, I'm modifying some old walkie talkies I have, and I want to extend the range but I'm not sure how to do it, though, because it uses one of those crystal transmitter components to output 49 Mhz. If someone knows how to extend range on radio crystals please let me know! Thanks in advance!!
Question by Adum24 | last reply
One of the projects I've been spit-balling for a very long time requires me to be able to build some sort of range finder (if I'm using the correct term). Basically, I would like to create a "finder" unit and a "hider" unit[s]. My thought would be to us RF of some sort, so the "hider" unit will spit out a certain frequency, that the "finder" will pick up and react to (in this case, speed up the blinking of some LED's and turn some servo's to set levels). This doesn't need to be exact. So long as I can detect a decent range so I have a cold, warm, warmer, and on fire points to use, it'll do the desired deed. Price is another factor, as I would like to keep this around the ballpark of $30 per unit. Thanks in advance!!
Question by DoctorWoo | last reply
Hey everyone! I want to make a switch between three or more 3,5mm input jacks. I've found an instructables instruction on how to do this, I only don't know which switch to pick. It has to be a rotary switch. Now my question: what are the minimum specs (volts, amperes, switch current etc) to keep good sound quality? Yours
Question by dijh | last reply
Hello all...I was looking in at the discussions of the possibility of long range radio control airplane operation and can make a few comments drawn from my research into the topic, with my opinions directed toward the USA market area ; First, Americans are bound by Federal Communications Commission regulations so we must abide by them or risk steep fines or legal trouble if caught. Second, the frequencies assigned by the FCC for radio control hobby use are already allocated, so modifications to your control systems in terms of frequencies could be illegal. Third, the maximum output for radio systems in the hobby is 1000mw (1 watt), which will easily control your miniature aircraft out to 1 to 2 miles, where you will need a video camera, transmitter, reciever and viewing device to even keep track of it ! There are several manufacturers that are way ahead of most of us here - offering pre made systems that are plug and play (no head scratching needed) . Search "FPV systems" on your computer and you'll find them. Bear in mind that to use these systems in America, you will need to obtain an amateur radio (ham) operator license to be legal (again, so if you get checked, you won't get in big trouble with the Federal Government ). I'm still looking into it myself, but if you want to see a good example of a really sharp Canadian who has a handle on this, search " VRflyer" on YouTube. He started doing this quite a few years ago and has some great video of his projects and results !
Topic by 2512rc
While trying to boil water today, there was a bit of flame briefly visible under the stainless steel kettle. Picking it up, it looked like a wet squished bug on the burner (actually bubbled metal or ceramic) ... and a slow leak in the kettle from a small burned spot. This seemed very contained. Many years ago when the oven element blew out it spewed white powder and tiny silver blobs all over the oven. So what is happening in the element when this occurs? (I don't really know what 'calrod' is made of.)
Question by mole1 | last reply
Hi all, I just bought the Smartlab: You Build It - Rock Star Microphone toy from a Goodwill. It's a great toy; it has a microphone that let's me transmit my voice over the radio (perfect for a Halloween haunted house when the static-mad radio bursts to life with terrifying voice-overs!!!:) works but only up to about a six foot range. I would like to be in a different room and use the microphone but I need to boost the range considerably - I understand that the FCC has rules about this. Moving forward, I don't know how to do this (at all....). Are there commercial range boosters that I can use? Are there mods that someone can recommend? Are these toys designed to NOT transmit beyond six feet even with mods? I wish I could give more information about the tech specs of the toy but I will have to try to de-solder the metal plate covering the circuit board (plus I don't know what specs to look for yet). Advice appreciated, DAZU
Topic by damianzuch | last reply
I am looking at extending the range of a wireless door bell. I currenly have a range of about 160m open air but would like to make the distance longer. Does anyone know how to do this? Do I mod the transmitter and the receiver?
Question by byoung1312ad | last reply
Does anyone know of the range of Series 1, 1mW Xbee modules under water or if that even works? If not would a 60mW one work? And we are assuming that the Xbee does not get wet or anything like that and is in full working condition.
Question by Hammock Boy | last reply
Hi ... I would like to know your opinion about this ultrasonic range finder sensor. I bought this "JCB ultrasonic distance measurer". I bought it for it's ability to measure up to 18m. I tried it ... and happy with the distance ... BUT ... a realised few issues (for me). 1. I think, it use 2 pulses to make the measurement. It's like ... Tuk - Tuk ... end then cca 1 sek is the result. 2. when I move ... it will NOT tell me the results ... probably, because of those 2 impulses - I think, the device is comparing those two TUK TUK ... and if there is a difference, it tells me ERROR. How ever ... my question is ... if I would take out just the sensor, do you think, I could make it to run only with one TUK - to be faster ... and do you think, then I could make measurements while moving ??? (just to show me the actual distance ???) I would like to make something like the arduino PING sensor ... but with greater distance. EDIT : I forgot to mention, that I want to use it with Arduino ... I don't need the device to work on its own. I would just like to know, if the sensor on its own (taken out of this device) + arduino could measuring by movement and with the same distance (max 18m) ??? Looking forward to your opinions. Thank you. zholy
Question by zholy | last reply
Hello Everyone, I've got quite the project that I am undertaking and I am looking for a bit of advice. This will be my very 1st forray into long-distance wifi, as well as off-grid power resources, so Im biting off quite a bit at once! I have a friend who has been helping me with the research who has a much firmer understanding of both electricity and hardware, but he will be out of town for the next week and I would like to get a bit of progress on this while he is gone. SO, I shall consult the hive mind known as the internet. Alright, this project consists of creating an uplink between a remote shed, and a home in a nearby city, with a broadband connection. The rub, there is 10,000 ft mountain range in between the two. We have a site were we can put a repeater node at approx. 10,000 ft elevation, that has wonderful line-of-sight to both locations. However, this site is very remote, and will have to run off the grid obviously. The distances are as follows: Home to repeater: 3.96 miles (thats with Google Earth following the contours of the mountain/valley, not sure how to make it just do a straight angled shot, so thats a rough estimate) Repeater to Remote shed: 2.68 miles (same issue) Background environment info: shed has generator + 60w solar array with 3-4 deep discharge lead RV batteries at 7400 feet. Has spring fed running water, which could be utilized for power as well, as obviously its always running. Repeater location is at 10k, as stated. Moderate to high winds very likely (data from peaks of similar altitude in the general area show gusts ranging from 40-60 mp/h, temperature ranges of averaging 7 to 90+ for a the later part of July and August (F). Obviously, its very possible to get soemething below this, though the lowest Ive ever seen at the shed has been -15 (f), I would say most winters we could get a few nights that see temps below 0, but not often. Equipment Ideas: So to pull this off, we have come up with two ideas for the network equipment, which I shall discuss 1st, then I will show you what we have come up with for power. - Network - Repeater Node: rb433 wireless access point ($99.00) http://www.routerboard.com/pricelist.php?showProduct=43 with 2 r52h mini PCI wifi chips ($59.00 x2) http://www.routerboard.com/pricelist.php?showProduct=69 2 8-18 inch satelite dishs converted for long-range WIFI use (20.00 x2) http://www.engadget.com/2005/11/15/how-to-build-a-wifi-biquad-dish-antenna/ OR instead of a rb433, we could use 2 WRT54G Linksys routers like this. (I also have 2 BEF 801.11b routers that are legacy to the WRT54G. I would like to use this if possible! http://hackaday.com/2005/08/23/how-to-greyhat-wifi-repeater/ Now, I know that this later choice would increase power use by about double. From what I have been able to find, the WRT's would at anywhere from 4.2w to 8w of power. Anyways, I like this later choice because it would be significantly cheaper for the equipment, but do you have any other ideas? I know that the RB433 would work great, but its rather expensive all said and done after I throw up the power as well. Plus, if it takes a lighting strike, its out of commission, and 2 cheap linksys routers are much cheaper to replace! Anyways any input here would be great! - Power so power to the repeater node is the real challenge. We crunched the numbers and came up with something almost exactly the same as below: From the datasheets, a routerboard will draw between 6-10W. So design for 10W. Over 24 hours you will need 10Wx24h = 240 Watt.Hours of power. For 7 days, you need 7x240Wh = 1680 Watt.Hours. A single, large deep cycle 110Ah 12V battery gives you about 1320 Watt.Hours of power, almost meeting the requirement. Now, to look at the solar panels: A good rule of thumb is to install 6 times the wattage that is drawn by the device. This is because only about 8 hours a day in sunny weather gives you maximum power output from a solar panel. So the other 16 hours you need to draw from the battery. (So already you need 3 times the wattage drawn by the device to break even each day) To generate 1 full day of extra battery power per sunny day, you need another 3 times the wattage. This is how we arrive at 6 times. 6 x 10W = 60W. So at a minimum I would recommend 60W of solar panels. That qoute comes from http://diywifilink.wordpress.com/ and http://mybroadband.co.za/vb/showthread.php?179547-Advice-needed-Setting-up-wifi-repeater-11km which is a project from a guy in South Africa almost exactly the same as the one that we are working on. The numbers came out to be about the same (Though they were a bit different when we calculated for the WRT54G option.) so, 60w of power generation to keep a decent charge on a battery. Now, we have a 60w panel at the shed, which is rather large to take up to 10,000 ft and place on the side of a mountain, and given the consistent wind element up there, we are hoping to do a hybrid system of both solar and wind. This is where things get tricky. A perfect balance, or even a more wind heavy balance would be great, such as 30-40w wind 20-30w solar. That keeps the panel size down, and uses a power source that runs 24/7. A Faroun Savonius wind turbine seems like the best system, but the controller to prevent overcharging etc is where I get nice and lost, having breached into very unknown territory. https://www.instructables.com/id/Faroun-Savonius-Wind-Turbine/ http://www.fieldlines.com/board/index.php/topic,129060.html This looked at 1st like a good, cheap system to use a controller board for the wind, but my question is would the controller board that comes with these solar panels (see below) work for both. That below is the setup that we use more or less at the shed, with some mods, such as a better alternator. http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11298029&search;=solar&Mo;=5&cm;_re=1_en-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search⟨=en-US&Nr;=P_CatalogName:BC&Sp;=S&N;=4001192&whse;=BC&Dx;=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk;=Text_Search&Dr;=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne;=4000000&D;=solar&Ntt;=solar&No;=3&Ntx;=mode+matchallpartial&s;=1&topnav;=&Nty;=1&s;=1 So, can a small, 30-50w wind turbine and generator be built, with a small solar array to power this thing? I dont care if we have some down time, this is primarily going to be used as a system to get a weather station with web cam to send in hourly photos during the peak hours. I can have the system at the shed shutdown automatically using some cron jobs in linux during the evening to conserve power. When there are people at the shed, we would like to be able to get a good enough wifi connection to use a wifi device (such as an android phone or ipod) to use as a voip phone in essential communication. The teenagers aren't going to be chatting with their friends for hours, but we would like to be able to put a short call through in case something goes wrong, or we just need to get ahold of someone at the shed or in the city. Next the equipment at the shed should be comparable to the repeater node, sans 1 antenna and just some low power embedded system. We would like to get a webcam and weather station hooked up on this end, but that can wait for upgrades later if needed, if power doesnt allow it. like I said, a simple water turbine could be used (something similar to the wind turbine perhaps?) and even another wind turbine could be built to add extra power dedicated to running any system at the shed, though I dont think the wind is quite regular enough to be viable here, but if its cheap, we could throw it on anyways. equipment at the home in the city is simple, just use an extra laptop or desktop we have laying around to be server/router, hook up antenna to this, broadcast connection, run the weatherstation/webcam web server off of this. So, thats the plan, but load of input is needed to try to come up with this. We hope to try to keep this sub $1000.00, but the budget could go higher. This is DIY at its finest! Thanks in advance for you help!
Topic by kydan | last reply
I was building my 4d rc plane, and then i thought if i could build a rc conputer controlled uav, and fly it over the neighbour s house, and with a pan and tilt camera, it would be nicer. and i don't even need to go to the flying field. I was wondering, if i could make a rc plane with more than 1 hour of flying time and can fly with a range with 20 kilometers that would be the perfect model. How is it possiable to make a light yet powerful plane. pls help me with this project ps.i have a budget of 400 dollars.
Question by stevenzhang | last reply
Backstory (feel free to skip) So, my grandparents live in an apartment building and they have to get a daily visit by a nurse for a condition grandma has (it's not going to get away till she passes, so it's not a short-term issue). The apt. building has a big parking lot closed by a remote controlled gate that can only be opened with the transmitter -the tiny one you hook to your keychain-. The nurse gets there by car and it is not possible to leave it on the side of the road so my grandfather is forced to go out, get to the ground floor, walk around the building and open the gate with the remote, this is really time-wasteful so I tried opening the gate from the balcony but the transmitter hasn't got nearly enough juice toget the signal to the receiver, on top of the fact that they're on the wrong side of the building. End Backstory So, I was set on buying something AC powered, with a seriously extended range, that might send the signal there, but could not find anything. Could any of you educate me on ho to build / mod something like that? thank you all in advance
Question by artifeffe | last reply
Hi, I am Planning to develop Long Range UHF RFID Integrated Reader which can Read Multiple Tags at a time (range between 8- 15 Meters range) and send information to my web application to store data, so will you plese let me know the components which i need to use along with assembling process. Thankq
Topic by bikhanpersonal | last reply
Any one know how to modify this so that you can adjust the range? Would simply adding a variable resistor to control the input voltage work? Or will I need an attenuator? If so, any ideas how?I would like to manipulate the existing range, not really extend it. https://www.instructables.com/id/Modifying-a-Cheap-Portable-Cellphone-Jammer/?
Question by zosim | last reply
I am currently working on an audio equalizer, and this is a link to the basic schematic I am using. http://www.daycounter.com/Filters/StateVariableFilters/State-Variable-Filter-Design-Equations.phtml If I am not mistaking, it would be the R1 and R2. I am also using Don Lancaster's book called the Active Filter Cookbook. I am confused on which equation I actually need to solve for the resistors using a certain frequency range. I am grateful for any help. Thank you.
Question by sound91
I want to set up something like a radio station in my college for my department so that we can deliver the messages through that and my fellow mates can listen to it in a FM receiver (in their mobile). How can i do it in the cheapest way possible?
Question by navinn_11 | last reply
Would like help with finding a IC that can be controlled directly or indirectly using an arduino. It needs to go from 10 microamps to about 200 microamps. I have a 5 volt power supply. Is there an IC for this, or how should I do it. I couldn't find anything on google that i understood. Thanks.
Question by headslant | last reply
Building a powered sub woofer. Enclosure and mounting comes along fine, in 2 days I'll get a 100 W RMS Velleman kit. I will only connect it to the sound card, and sometimes to an MP3 player, in which case I will split the signal in 1 or 2 stereo plus one bass channel. I have noticed very different volume levels in the bass register of various recordings, sometimes even damaging (to my other, portable bike sub woofer). The new, yet to build amp is even more overrated in respect to all the other, separately amplified sound system components--- So I need a volume control potmeter before the amp. What is the range this potentiometer should have? (right now, I plug it in the CD RCA input of another amp)
Question by BobS | last reply
I see write-ups aplenty of how to fix screen backlights and re-using CCFLs from scanners and such, and ALL say 'beware high voltage !'. NONE, however, specify what those voltages/currents/frequencies may actually BE ???! Several times I have been offered LCD monitors with obvious backlight problems and have only gotten one to work by replacing bad caps. This all makes me wonder - could it be that the ballast from a dead, smallish CFL might power a CCFL quite nicely - does anyone know ?! Thanks for any replies ! PS: Please, no lectures about the dangers of high voltages and so forth, this question is being asked by an adult who is safety conscious.
Question by vtsnaab | last reply
The 18th century gave us the beginning of the Industrial Revolution. Purpose-built factories for the new industries such as iron and textiles. New and improved methods of transportation, communication and production. It changed the way people lived / worked and it created / inspired a lot of what we still see and use today. This revolution had its negatives too. Jobs were lost to the industrial machines that did it better and faster, the poor and the working classes often had to endure grim living and working conditions. The black gold mined from underground, fuelled our thirst for advancement. Now in the 21st century, we are in the midst of the Technological Revolution. Ubers, drone deliveries, driverless cars and trucks, AI, Google, Facebook, Amazon Alexa, unmanned military vehicles, war by remote control and the bravery of being out of range. The drones, AI, robots and automation may not only take away our jobs, but potentially the need to leave the house or to have any real-world face to face interactions. They could re-define our lives, for better or for worse. Are you fearful? Wary? Or do you embrace the changes going on all around us?
Topic by ThirdEarthDesign | last reply
I want a bluetooth device that connects to my phone as a standard bluetooth headset and allows any bluetooth headset to connect to it as if it were my phone. I am thinking of using it (or chaining a few of them) to create a larger area for my bluetooth headset for my phone. THANKS!? (Yes...I have seen the antenna hacks, but they don't allow me to boost the power of the signal like I need to. And, this device should also allow chaining to get the signal out a lot further and around metal obstacles.) Even better would be the ability to connect multiple devices to the extender so that multiple people could be on the same call on their bluetooth headsets simultaneously. (Yeah...it's getting deep in here. But the geek in me wants what it wants.)
Question by squishyalt | last reply
I would like to make two key fob sized units that if brought within ~20cm of each other would sound an alarm from one of the units. I've seen a pair of key fob sized RDIF alarm tags that sound an alarm in one if moved more than ~10m apart. They sell for ~$50 US but I need something that accomplishes just the opposite from this device. I want to keep two pets away from each other (one bullies the other) and such a device would I believe accomplish this task. It seems like it should be relatively simple to design but I'm an artist and machinist and know little about electronics. I purchased a book entitled Practical Electronics for Inventors that has given me some knowledge about the basics of transformers, relays, capacitors, resisters, etc. but nothing on IR or RFID transmitters/receivers. Everything I read about RDIF is geared towards one stationary reader (or large hand-held unit) and one or more transmitters. I made one collar with an IR receiver from an R/C car and a small piezo alarm that would sound when I pushed a button on a remote. This works but only if I'm in the same room with the offending animal. I need something that works when I'm away or the animals are upstairs or in another part of the house. They are indoor only pets so the device need not be weather-proof. Anyone with knowledge of such things want to lend me a hand?
Topic by bigdaddyjt | last reply
Question by Amit Tulshyan | last reply