I have a 1980 Qld ambulance - which has a lot of rust in the floor - walls and roof of the cabin - I was wondering if anyone had any tips for taking the rust out apart from using oxy and jam cans. Cheers
Question by KNOBPOLISHER | last reply
How do I prevent rust? Or should I just not worry about the rust? I am using single sided board etched with ferric chloride, if that matters. Also I need the copper to conduct "on the top", like if I put a multimeter on a trace it would still conduct. So I can't use something like a clear coat spray paint. AI
Question by JaredsProjects | last reply
I am looking for a fast and easy product for my volunteers to use on a steam engine that is being restored and wondered if these products are any good and worth the $$$ they charge? These products seem to be an improvement over the gloping on of the Naval Jelly and hundreds of man hours of wire brushing and sanding, priming and painting... Just wanted to know from an outside source if these are good and effective so I can recommend them to the Board of Directors and not end up looking like a jerk... They already think I don't know much because I'm younger and a girl! For example, I am still trying to convince them that the engines on static display would look nicer for longer if they used an epoxy based paint instead of exterior house paint! I appreciate any thoughts you have on the two products listed, if you know anything about them! Thanks!
Question by ALMOSTATILLSON | last reply
I have a 93 Pathfinder with a rusty frame, I just discovered that the rust has eaten a hole through the frame and I'd like to repair it.... how do I go about it??
Question by shiatzu | last reply
I don't want to paint it though. It is for the underneath side of a porch roof. I don't want to spend major $$ on reclaimed tin if I can make it look that way myself.... HELP!
Question by Wedthing | last reply
I want to make things out of steel and then coat them in an oxidizing agent of some sort so that they are covered in surface rust and look really aged.
Question by kreationism | last reply
I was looking for a way to make rust (ironoxide) and found that bleach coul be used as an oxidizer; however, I would not know when it was finished breaking down. With some research I found that NaClO + H2O2 -> O2 + NaCl + H2O. I think I can use this to either: use the NaClO and make the ironoxide, then add the H202 to break do the residual NaClO (extra H2O2 can be evaporated with the H2O), or used the reaction to speed up the ironoxide making with a bit of extra H2O2 to insure all the NaClO is used and the evaporate off the rest. (which would be better? would be my first question, but not the most pressing one) My question is how can I sepperate the Iron oxide from the NaCl (salt), since both are water soluble (sp)? A filter will seperate out larger pieces of ironoxide, but there will still be a fair amount that passes through the filter with the salt and I would like to minimize my loses as much as possible.
Question by knotmuch | last reply
I am making some iron oxide using the method with the 9 volt and nail in saltwater. Im a little confused however in all the thermite instuctables it says that the wire that bubbles the most is the positve wire. When i connect the (what the battery says) is positive to the nails and insert the negative into the water it seems like more bubbles are kinda comming off the stripped negative wire. The water is turning a little green(update-its not to green anymore) There is brown stuff floating at the top of the water.which doesnt burn my skin and smells like metal. I am using copper wire. Any suggestions?
Question by The Red Button | last reply
Is there a way I can clean a 2 stroke gas motor that I disassemble? I want to get rid of all this grease and this oil and if possible, is there a way to remove rust? I tried with water but there is still grease on it
Question by Patented | last reply
Would regular clorox bleach in a container with a peice of iron over time create iron oxide?
Question by trf | last reply
I asked a question on how to sand a steel file cabinet down to a mirror finish a couple of weeks ago and got a lot of great answers. I tried some of the suggestions. What worked best was an orbit sander, starting at 60 and going up to 400. At 400, I could see a pretty good reflection of myself with no scratches.I could have made it perfect if I had kept doing that all over the whole file cabinet.Unfortunately, it would have taken forever to get all the scratches out because while I was learning how to sand it and trying out different tools, different sanding techniques, I made too many scratches. For example I used a belt sander on one entire side, thinking that would be faster. It was faster, but it left deep cuts all over. I had started by sanding off some of the paint with those metal brushes that you attach to a drill. Then when I tried to sand that section with the orbit sander, I couldn't get all the scratches out. Even using really coarse hand sandpaper didn't get the scratches out.So instead of giving it a mirror finish, I decided to go over the whole thing with the metal brushes attached to a drill. See what it turned out like below. I am going to leave it like that.So now I need to know how to finish it. I had been following these instructions but they are not working. The rubbing compound does not disappear when you rub it. It is just smearing brown stuff all over the file cabinet. I do not know what the purpose of this is. It's not appearing to polish anything. It just makes a mess. So after rubbing it with cloths didn't get rid of it, I tried to wash it off. But that was an even worse mistake because now there are small rust spots all over even though I dried it with a dry cloth after washing the file cabinet. Also, washing it made it look dirtier. There are water streaks all over it now. I went to Home Depot but I don't know what to buy. I don't want to ask any of the floor staff because they could just say anything and it might make things worse. A guy at Parts Source told me I should use Metal Polish. He actually told me to go to a jeweller and get jewel polish, but then he suggested this Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream. I don't know if he's right or wrong.So my questions are: How can I remove the brown rubbing compound? Washing didn't get all of it. Am I supposed to buff it off? Apparently you can't use water at this stage. How am I supposed to clean off the mess I made when I was only trying to polish it and make it perfectly clean and shiny before coating it?Assuming I can get it cleaned off and make all the rust spots disappear, what am I supposed to coat it with? How many coats?Is there something you're supposed to do after you coat it? Such as do you polish it then? With what?
Question by noahbody_ | last reply
I'm interested in making my own tools for ceramics carving and trimming and brushes for decoration, using some wonderful mountain laurel branches that I have. They need to be rust-resistant because they will come in contact with water and moist clay all the time. Which is why you have to have a ferrule -- other wise, the swelling/shrinking cycle will loosen the blade or brushhead. I'm thinking under 1" in diameter, some as small at 3/8". I don't have a lathe, so I can't turn nuts as I've seen on other searches. I've seen some neat ones out there for making your own handles for gouges, but they're really expensive. Where to go, what to do?
Question by bptakoma | last reply
I recently got an antique syringe, complete with needles and all. It is in perfect working order, clean and rust free. The only problem is that the rubber plunger is stuck in the glass tube and won't dislodge. It has some rust like buildup around it, but it rinsed off the end easily. Can anyone help me get it out? ( I want to keep the original glass tube because I would like it to be complete and not have a new glass/ plexiglass tube) best answer to the solution that works.
Question by XOIIO | last reply
My friend fell into the oacean while at work with his OnePlus One in his pocket. His phone didn't come on after that and he tried the rice trick with the phone intacted (not taken apart). After about 3 days I time apart the phone to find that its covered in salt crystals, I put I back together and it not only vibrated but showed signs if life by flickering the LCD screen. I would like to clean it to see if I would get an even better response from it, so I want to know how best to clean the salt or rust or whatever you want to call it from the components. And if that not possible, will the screen still work if I place it onto my OnePlus One?
Question by Jetron3000 | last reply
How can I correctly identify aluminum? Aside from the weight, how do I find out if it is pure or some alloy that will make make even the vultures drop dead when smelted. Owing to a project I'm working on where I wish to cast letters in aluminum for a wind harp, I have been on a search here on the farm. Have found literally 200kg of scrap brass and and about 35g of aluminum! The letters have to be out of aluminum for rust reasons. 2nd Question Does zinc alloy aluminum rust in the same fashion? 3rd Question Brass. I haven't researched it yet, but could anyone give me a clue as to smelting the stuff? Thanks
Topic by Karroo Oakey | last reply
I've read that aluminum doesn't rust, and that it can be corroded but that it doesn't really make it look worn out/old but makes white blotches. I need a solution to make it look worn out, doesn't need to be a fast process though.
Question by Grujah | last reply
I'm making rust via electrolosis (with tablesalt enhancing), the water level has dropped about half an inch, and the liquid is a heavy black Fe3O4 sludge, meaning that there has been alot of hydrogen released. Basically, what are the signs/symptoms of hydrogen poisoning?
Question by The Ideanator | last reply
The microwave interior (where you put the food) rusted out in one corner i need to fill it (with what ) and coat it to make it look good and be properly sealed but with what do i coat it? so far everything i have used has caught on fire. thank you
Question by fixitnotbroken | last reply
After looking through (literally) some batteries that i had held onto in the hope that theyd contain carbon rods for elecrolysis. i discoverd now what the signs are that a battery contains a carbon rod, and how to tell if its a wet cell. now, i opened up a d size duracel wet cell, that contained a metal rod that looks identical to a blunt nail, and i was wondering, what is this made of? because , i kno theres a reason iron rodsa arent used inside these batterries, being because theyd rust, yet this has no rust at all, so im wondering wjhat is it? also, ide thought ide emntion it was attached to the negative terminal. also, is the silvery metalic flaky dust stuff inside the paper roll inside said battery pure zinc? or is it zinc oxide, because ide very much like to try to use it to make zinc sulfide for glow in the dark plastic, so would it work?
Question by oldmanbeefjerky | last reply
I'm replacing the rear half of the exhaust on my 02 ranger. (consists of the intermediate pipe the muffler and the exhaust pipe) There's a spring load gasket asssembly between the exhaust pipe (going to muffler) and the cat. converter. The flange on the cats pipe is rusted out. Anyone know if a split flange repair kit (or something akin) is available. I'd rather not do a chop job (remove the flanges on both pipes and install a flex pipe etc.)
Question by Ranger1942 | last reply
Have a 20 lb Ansul Sentry ABC fire extinguisher. I recently took it in to be hydroed/refilled but the refilling company would not perform this for me. The extinguisher is in great shape and there is no visible damage or rust. This fire extinguisher was made in 1980 and Apparently they said that they would not refill or rehydro your product if it was made before 1984 or so. Why did they tell me this and can I get it refilled somewhere legally?
Question by baudeagle | last reply
Hi there, Im busy building a metronome to fit a machine im altering, (the board was totally fried and rusted through) which also has a 6volt motor that spins in the front. I managed to find a potentiometer to control the speed of the motor and the metronome, but need to have set speeds on both of them. Is there anything that i can adapt to the potentiometers like a ratchet type system ? something maybe similar to a rotary switch that u click up and down? Im pretty new to all this, any help would be greatly appreciated. MGF
Question by MrGreenFingers | last reply
OK, i got this antique school bell, i think the date reads 1898 idk its got a little surface rust, i saw this thing sitting on a shelf, and i thought to my self "how awesome would that be to be hooked up to a door bell" but no matter how hard i look i cant find clear instructions on how to, and what i need to make it work. Ive put some power on it and the hammer just stuck to the coil instead of bouncing back forth. are there any antique gurus who can help me with this issue? thanks :P
Topic by golddigger1559 | last reply
I have a $2.50 audio amp from China. It's what you'd expect: some rusted components, some scratches on the PCB, and yet it still works. I use it with a 9v battery, my phone, and a big, repurposed car speaker. It get's loud enough I think it can easily destroy the speaker with that 9v. My question: At any volume worth using that amplifier for, there's noticeable noise. What can I do to remove this? Some research shows that a capacitor may help, but where would it go? Thanks
Question by bobdabiulder | last reply
It is silver, no rust and it will not be scratched by anything. It is magnetic, it's about as round as a quarter, and maybe an inch thick. It weighs 150 grams, or 5.37 oz. It randomly appeared on my back porch one day. The top looks like a bundt cake design, the bottom is flat with a perfect circle in the middle. I found it in Southern Missouri. I have asked multiple people and no one has any clue as to what this could be. I would say its a meteorite, but the shape of it is unlike any meteorite I've ever seen. Any referrals or thoughts about what this could be would be gratefully appreciated!!!
Question by KadieJ1 | last reply
I am looking to heat water to a boil in a pipe, using nichrome wire. the nichrome wire will be wrapped around the pipe. my problem is i don't want to short circuit the nichrome wire, so i need to insulate it, but i need it to still transfer as much heat as possible to the pipe. any suggestion would be great, including other ways to, using electricity, bring water to a boil within a pipe. *UPDATE: does anyone know of an affordable insulating paint or coating? i found some (called Glyptal) but it cost $50, which is too much for me rust-oleum is an enamel paint. will it insulate?
Question by jg156 | last reply
Recently, I have made an HDTV antenna using a video from youtube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWQhlmJTMzw) and some inspiration from Instructables that I have read. The issue i'm having is that I am slowly losing my signal. I noticed the rust build-up on the end of the fins of it and I have cleaned them up, but it didn't help. Another issue is that I can't seem to pick up a local channel, yet on clear nights I pick up channels from 100 miles away. ( I live in Winchester, Ky and I pick up Cincinatti channels) Anyone have any ideas? Maybe re-work the metal parts with a different type of metal? Maybe a few ideas on different designs?
Question by PapaHex | last reply
Hi ! Into a terrain near a very old volcano and a river, my brother found fragments of obsidian of various sizes and colors. Some of them are "glued" to metallic stones, and some others contain marbles of metals ... He also found a heavy metallic rocks (encrusted with obsidian) who reacts with magnet, and an other light one (without obsidian) who does not react with magnet. Do you know a mean to identify those metals ? (I Googled but found nothing very useful so far) Or do you have a clue of what it could be ? #1 is a metallic rock encrusted with obsidian. It must be iron because it's heavy, the rust is red, and it reacts to magnet. #2 and #3 is obsidian with marble of metal who reacts to magnet. #4 is an unknown (metallic ?) rock. It is light (150 grams for 200 cm3 - 0.33 pounds for 12 cubic inches), of the color of silicon (or the graphite of paper pen !), does not react to magnet but is (electric) conductor with resistance near 0 ohm.
Topic by chooseausername | last reply
Me and my gf have decided to tackle a project recently out of curiosity and boredom. My Ariens YT12 could use a new painting. I had took the angle grinder to the a$$ end of the tractor and cleaned up the rusted parts and scraped up the painted areas. I had a fight with the angle grinder for a brief few seconds and messed up my arm a bit, so I decided not to do any more grinding with the wire cup. I've since put on a couple coats of black spray enamel paint, and I've even painted over other areas too not just the rust spots, I tried to wipe down the machine with a wet cloth the best that I could. I've given it a few coats but I might have to go around yet and touch up some other spots, I DO plan on doing more painting to the frame soon, but maybe when it's nicer out and not so windy. Heres the kicker, when my gf gets home, we've already cut out some really neat looking stencils and we plan on spray-painting the hood of the tractor, I'm not sure if I should rough up the surface first or just leave it be and clean it with a wet cloth before painting. It's going to be the coolest looking hood ever (I hope if it turns out how I'm hoping). Stay tuned I'll upload MOAR pictures soon! Update!!!! I've added some more pictures I just took them after peeling the stencil off my tractor's hood. I got more paint splatter than I would have liked, but overall I'm pleased with how it came out. I have MORE pictures to come as I finish the black stripe. 2nd Update: I just peeled the painters tape off and I like how clean-cut the stripe looks, however there was some seepage and I need to touch it up. 'Should still make the neighbors jealous though. 3rd Update: I've put the hood back ON the tractor, and I think it looks pretty damn snazzy if you ask me! Check out the last picture in the list to see what I'm talking about!
Topic by Punkguyta | last reply
I havent got much at my disposal, ive got tubing, glue, and brushless fans. i have tested with distilled water and the fans do not short out from being in contact with it, nor do they appear to be rusting or locking up. i have tried using a standard fan to make a simple pump, but with no decent results. the way i have it set up is the bottom is covered, and a tube is exiting out the side of the fan shroud. it is angled so that the fan blades should be pushing the water into the tube, but the water is just staying in the fan shroud. i currently have a CD as the intake, using the hole in the middle as the intake and the rest of the cd covering the other side of the fan. i was wondering if theres a way to make it work with a normal fan, and if i can do that, how do i need to have the hose set up? if its impossible to do with a regular fan, i know a blower fan will work, since water pumps have basically the same setup on the inside. i have a feeling the blades themselves are playing a big role in where the water is going. any help is appreciated!
Question by zack247 | last reply
Hi, i am working on a project (in Vienna, Austria), and a part of that process will be that i would have to clean a bunch of used bicycle chains and create other, rather smaller objects out of them. they dont have to hold a lot of weight, they vary from 4 to 6 chainlinks or so. At the end I think I will have between 50 and 100 maybe 200 pieces, so it's not an industrial amount but not a single few pieces either. FYI: bicycle chains are made from steel, they are not stainless steel, usually its chromed, there is nickel in it, so when its used they surfaces are often damaged, so it has rust on the surface as well. it has really small hidden parts where grease, dirt and rust stays hidden and stuck too. For the cleaning: I have been cleaning chains to create prototypes and individualised pieces so far with Terpentine and experimented with other types of Degreasers, Soaps, with toothbrush method:) and rags, also other kinds of paint thinners (terpentine doesnt smell so bad, but still removed a fair amount of grease dirt and rust) Degreasers are not very effective, soap and toothbrush and rags take a lot of time. Soaking in terpentine helps but its still time consuming. I havent tried aceton yet. Vinegar and stuff like this dont seem to be so effective either... For assembling/connecting: I have used for individual pieces chain tools (putting a small pressure on the chain link pins, so they are not flexible anymore (as chains supposed to be normally) and then forced bending them in the position they should be in. This is stable enough for the stuff I want to do (they are only decorational) but it's a lot of work, takes a really long time. I did welding too (MIG), but the plates are individual pieces, it doesnt weld so nicely, or its not so easy, and I dont have my own welding machine in my workshop space, I have one in a different place i can use, but i dont want to invest and buy one just for this, and it would be nice if I could do the whole project in my own space, and i wouldnt have to transport so much stuff all the time back and forth... and it's not necessary to have it that strong as i can actually get it with welding, because it doesnt have to be that resistant, doesnt have to hold so much weight, as they are going to be only smaller decorational objects anyway. Ideas and tips that came up, havent been tried yet though, or didnt really work yet: - soldering: with gas flame (torch) and simple solder. i tried shortly, didnt really work though, didnt connect, maybe i give it a try again, not sure what i did wrong though, maybe its just not the right method? - using screw glue (not sure if thats the right name in english:) rather smaller amounts or transparent ones, applying it at the inside points, so it still looks nice. - i havent tried epoxy and i am not a huge fan of the idea, but i dont know enough about the costs, process and the environmental effects of it... - it is an option also to use some temporarily working, not very great but cheap and fast method for assembly as preparation and then just quickly fill holes by welding, i thought about trying soldering or screw glue before welding and just zack, zack zack weld them one bye one, it would be easier if they are somehow already fixed in the position they should be in (as they are small and very flexible pieces of metal otherwise), problem is though that whatever i use as preparation, will be quickly burned by welding, which is in terms of environmental effects not so great, but also has aestetical consequences i guess. - i just read about brazing, i am not sure yet what i would need for it, for smaller stuff, what is the difference between brazing and soldering exactly and how well it would work, what are the costs of investment etc. - for cleaning: one idea i havent tried, just read about it is sandblasting. I would probably have to ask some company to do that, as i really cant afford to invest much more money in equipment right now, not sure if i even have the right space for that, and it seems anyway for 50 or 100 pieces disproportionate somehow. I would like to use a method that is not too bad in terms on enviromental-friendlyness or how to say, not very damaging or too bad chemically etc. it would be important that whatever i do, the endresult: - holds more or less - looks nice, either invisible the parts or things, materials i add so it holds, or it has the same colour/material like some kind of metal. it can be that i will paint it over with some metal silver colour at the end if necessary, for having a consistent colour surface, or to prevent from rusting afterwards. - should be cheap during the process, so low running costs and more or less environmental friendly, and preferably some method to use tools that are cheap or i have access to, not very expensive to invest. - i prefer to do things by myself and not outsource the process to companies unless it has big advantages (like for example if it turns out sandblasting is cheap and really environmental friendly i would consider it actually:))) i am really happy for any tips on these things, before i spend more money on stuff just to try it out and find out it's stupid, or not what i need, not what i am looking for:)
Question by bikese_xual | last reply
Any one experienced with repair of small gauge hinge's, or is familiar with Zippo's repair? I need help... :) Please... I have two '67 '68 Vietnam brass Zippo's... They have been authenticated. One of which, has a broken hinge. I was interested in repairing it, as on the base side it has disintergrated. I am hesitant to send it to Zippo... As I believe, it is still under warranty yet I am worried that a standard hinge replacement would look odd.... as they won't age the brass etc... Could come back looking bad... Although I know, Zippo is great at servicing them! It already has ALOT, of pewter throughout the brass... Obviously fairly rusted out at some stage... And I was wondering, has anyone used pewter to mend brass before? I'm sure it's not common practice, because of colour differences etc.. Perhaps I should call Zippo to find out first hand.... Just for interest sake... Has anyone got the same inscription... I haven't seem the second of these before... I'd be interested if it is a generic quote or written be the owner... "I'VE LOVED EVERY INCH OF THE LAND I STAND, I'LL DIE BEFORE I RUN" Tactical Air Command:- "CAME DOWN THE HELL, FELL DOWN THE GOD" Any help would appreciated. Thanks! ;) Sorry about the cruddy phone pics... Doesn't really do them justice... :(
Topic by Lftndbt | last reply
So, I was at my girlfriend's apartment when I came across a busted tape/cd deck underneath the porch and immediately though "FREE parts!" like any self respecting modder would. The circuit board, in pieces, has been subject to the elements for quite some time, the device made in 2002, I've no idea though how long it has actually been under there. ("new" place) So two questions. 1) Are any of the components (capacitors, diodes, resistors) safe to use, assuming they were not short circuited by rain/humidity and rust hasn't set in? (On some parts it has, the motor turning the tape deck being the main and most unfortunate one.) 2) WHAT could I possibly use the sensors/readers that read the tape of the tape deck besides reading the magnetic tape inside cassettes?! I came to the conclusion that reconstructing a tapedeck with these sensors would be impractical, if not stupid. Can they sense any magnetic field? Would it be hard to write an arduino library? I tried looking up a datasheet and get nothing that resembles these, much less something that might belong inside a tape deck. 15RSA0 J2 K1520 Is how it appears on the side of the part, the 0s might be Os. But the rest is pretty clear (I love a nice font).
Topic by stalledaction | last reply
Hello 'iblers, Over the past 6 weeks I have made what I think is Ferrocyanide, but I need some confirmation, OR if anyone can tell me some tests I can do on the evaporation to confirm it is ferrocyanide. I have made this, so I can make Prussian Blue, so I can then make the old school 'crystal forest' trick. Any tips on handling the crystals will be of great use as well, also what type of care should be taken. Ferrocyanide from what I have read is not dangerous like its salt namesake 'cyanide', any more info here will help me as well. I have the MSDS for it, and studied some, but some personal experience would be better info. Update: How I am creating the ferrocyanide: - 5g Iron Oxide ( Rust ) - 10g Carbon ( Charcoal ) - 10g Sodium Carbonate ( Lectric Soda Crystals, Washing Soda etc ) - Mix the fine powders together thoroughly in a container - Place mix into a red hot crucible and it will fuse slightly - Stir mixture when purple flames are visible until the flames cease - Cool to room temp - Break mass into a large amount of hot water and stir vigorously - Filter off unreacted carbon and iron not absorbed - Evaporate, resulting in Ferrocyanide
Question by AtomRat | last reply
Hey guys! I bought a Chinese knock off 60W variable temp soldering iron for $15CAD and used it intensively for more than a year now and the end of the part holding the tip just started to rust away and doesn't hold the tip in place anymore. Needless to say, I have enough of this and want to get a decent soldering iron, I was planning to get the Hakko FX888D as you can't get the analog knob model anymore but it's only available online from the US and comes up to $180-200CAD with the shipping which is way too expensive. I can get the TrackPower TK-950 (TeamCheckpoint TC-950 is basically the same one but the older version) for $130CAD with a 5 years warranty at my local store, it seem like a clone of the Hakko 936 but what kind of quality is it? Perhaps like the Yihua? If you guys know anything about it or any other recommendations on soldering stations I can get for around the same price with better quality in Canada, it'd be great! I do a lot of soldering through hole only for now and I also do a lot of desoldering, this is how I get most of my electronic components so I need a soldering station that will last me for a while and that doesn't smell like a Chinese knock off out of the box. Thanks for your time. :) -Electrospark
Topic by Electrospark | last reply
I am in a night class called Design for Industry. In that class we design, make, and test a mini indycar. We are using the same car from last year, but the previous teacher didn't exactly car about the car, or so it seems. We had to fix the wiring, key ignition, solenoid and starter motor. After we got the wiring and electrical all fixed, we decided to take the car out and try to run it. It did run, but it was rough. If we wanted it to idle while just sitting it wouldn't do it,however. If I (the driver) slowing opened the choke and gave it gas, the car would start moving and go pretty well. It would go around the track for maybe 100ft. and then it would just cut off. I tried not taking my foot off the gas, but that still didn't work(only caused me to spin out around the corner lol). So we took it inside and put it on jack stands. We took off the carb, cleaned both jets, and sprayed the whole thing with carb clean. We put the carb back on but still died. We can get it to "idle" but it is at a really high RPM. When we try to adjust the idle screw it either revs up more or dies. The previous class and teacher, choked the engine to kill it. So when we took out the plugs they were dark, or rich. We replaced them and the engine still died. NOTE: there was a centrifugal clutch on the car, but it was rusted together so we ended up taking it off. My classmates and I were thinking that the engine doesn't have enough suction, for the fuel pump, at low RPMs. Model: 303777 / Type: 1162-E1 / Code: 03011511
Question by ben2000 | last reply