Sanding Laser Etchings and Saltwater Etching Through Anodization ?s

I own an iPod Shuffle, 2nd generation, silver. It is very plain, and I've recently been reading up on saltwater etching. I want to remove the standard Apple logo from the back and etch my own text (it will either be "iMake" or "iBles", I can't decide). I've come upon two roadblocks, so far, those being: can I sand laser etchings (the Apple Logo) off, and can I etch through the player's anodization, or would I need to sand that off? I don't really care if it doesn't turn out perfect, or looks like a total mess. It's not like I paid for the thing. Thanks for any help!

Topic by Bran   |  last reply


How can I sand stainless steel down to a flawless mirror finish? What is the best way? What tools should I use? Answered

I have a stainless steel filing cabinet painted khaki. I want to remove the paint and give the underlying steel a mirror finish. Removing the paint is not a problem. The problem is I don't know how to give it a mirror finish. The finish I want is so that I would be able to see my reflection just as if I were looking in a normal mirror. Here's an example of what I'm trying to achieve, starting from an old, painted filing cabinet. If I could make it look that good or better, I'd be satisfied. I have tried several methods which I found on the internet but none of them seem to be working. I have tried sanding by hand starting at 60 grit and going up to 220 with regular sandpaper. I have also tried using emory sandpaper which says it is for metal. I used coarse up to fine. Neither of these are resulting in a mirror finish. With the regular sandpaper, after using the 220, I can sort of see my face if I get really close and look at it from exactly the right angle, but can't make out any features. I also tried using various dremel tools attached to my electric drill. These give a much different finish than what I am trying to achieve. It ends up looking like brushed aluminum. You can't see a reflection in this because it's too diffused. Then I tried using a sandpaper wheel attached to my angle grinder. The sandpaper wheel was made up of many sheets of sandpaper, shaped into a wheel. It sort of worked, but was very uneven. I could see my reflection in little parts but most of the rest of it was scratched up.Then I tried using a belt sander, using paper from 50 up to 120. The result was similar to a stainless steel refrigerator, but messier. There were a lot of lines or grooves, and they were not straight. So the best I have achieved so far is a finish close to that of a new stainless steel refrigerator or stove, where you can't see your reflection, but the sanding grooves are clean and straight. I got this through a combination of the angle grinder, the belt sander, and hand sanding from 60 to 220. I also tried a small section purely by hand, using regular sandpaper from 60 to 150 and got slightly better results - meaning there are fewer lines. But the reflection is still barely visible; it's still way too cloudy. These results could look nice but they're not what I want. I'm really trying to get the perfect mirror finish. I've tried to upload pictures of what I've got so far. Don't know if they will make it into this question or not.

Question by noahbody_   |  last reply


Laser diode cooling, would sanding help?

If I sanded the sides of my laser diode (essentially the same package as a stubby 5mm led), would it increase the surface area enough so that the cooling effects are noticeable if used in conjunction with thermal epoxy and a small active cooling system? Datasheet: http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/08d5/0900766b808d55b2.pdfUPDATE: Ok, due to many unforeseen minor issues/problems that have arisen, I have decided to consider a flat diode package. Although the power and pulse width are somewhat smaller, It wont really hinder the end product (which will have loads of documentation on the build here).New diode datasheet: http://catalog.osram-os.com/catalogue/catalogue.do;jsessionid=A8BC7E9CCE6FB1AA392B37F3F982A978?act=downloadFile&favOid;=0200000200001347000300b6

Question by The Ideanator   |  last reply



What is a smooth, or "rounded" aggregate, like sand, but NOT abrasive ?

I made an hourglass as a prop for a local production of "The Wizard of Oz".  The "witch" (the actress') still has it at her  home.  The "glass", which s actually plastic, & made of sections cut from 4 plastic goblets- is becoming less clear because the white sand I used is fogging up the surface with very fine scratches.  I'd like to replace this sand (that I got from a craft store, like Joann's) with an aggregate that has smooth round pieces, not rough ones.  These wont be so scratchy, and will also be less apt to cram together and clog the narrow passage from the top chamber to the lower one.  I googled these words, and got some very technical info about the science of manufacturing concrete and plastic products, but nothing I could use to find or even name what I could buy and use.  ALSO, is there a best compound for polishing the inside of the "glass" to restore the original clarity?  In other things, I've used brass polish, and even toothpaste!

Question by Cantoo   |  last reply


which of these are better? Answered

Http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94076 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf? itemnumber=92880http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40457  

Question by NatureBoom21   |  last reply



Using an inkjet to print water based glue?

I am thinking about playing with an inkjet printer to print 3d sand casting molds. To save time, I won't be too specific in my design, but I basically want to modify an inkjet to print a water based glue onto layers of sand to create sand casting molds like the 3d printer in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8MaVaqNr3U Someone also made a crude version of what I want in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nbtZOolSIY&feature;=player_embedded My theory is that if an inkjet printer heats up the water in the ink creating a bubble of steam to push the rest of the ink out, wouldn't the same concept apply to a water based glue if you put that in the inkjet? So here are my questions: 1) Would it be possible to put water based glue in an inkjet and have it print it? 2) Are water based glues are ok to use in sand casting molds? Tell me what you think and thanks for your input. 

Topic by sourcesmith   |  last reply


SUV STEPS?

I want to sand and repaint my nerf bars,can anybody help with a suggestion of a kind of paint to use?

Question by recoveryroom123   |  last reply


how do i dismantle the nikon coolpix l18 camera?

I need to clean its insides theres a bunch of sand in it blocking the deployment of the lens assembly.

Question by uptownborg   |  last reply


How a CPU is born

    While doing some research, I saw a link that said "How CPUs Are Made: From Sand to Silicon". Mildly intrigued and not knowing anything about how they are made, I clicked and went to the page and read.     The article briefly runs through a highly abridged series of steps in the making of what eventually turns out to be an Intel i7 processor. It starts off with the raw materials (SiO2, e.g., sand) and how they turn it into monstrous (about 220 pounds!), essentially pure, silicon ingots from which wafers are made. and many steps later the processors are boxed up and ready for store shelves.

Topic by The Ideanator   |  last reply


World's Largest Stop-Motion Animation.

From the people that brought you the world's smallest stop-motion animation, comes the world's largest - shot on a beach, some scenes covered 1000m2. New Scientist TV's video format won't embed here, so you'll have to follow this link.

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


Does anyone know how to repair ribbon cable?

Does anyone know how to repair ribbon cable? (the "Flat Flexible Cable" type) I tried sanding down the cable until the copper was visible, and taping the two parts together, however this hasn't worked.

Question by BlackCloud   |  last reply


Pop Up Camp Trailer

I would like to paint my trailer to look like a gypsy wagon. I would like it to look like wood and bricks any suggestion on what type of paint to use I want to paint it by hand. Should I sand it first. Any suggestion would be help full. Thank you.

Question by witchdragon13   |  last reply


DIY Transistor?

Do you think it'd be possible to make a completely homemade transistor? Not a homemade transistor amp or anything, just the transistor. I know, you could just buy one for cents, but you can also just buy a lot of stuff that you can have fun making. What about turning a normal transistor into a phototransistor? Just sand the coating off the silicon?

Question by LeviMan_2001   |  last reply


How can I polish and rust-protect a steel file cabinet? Answered

I asked a question on how to sand a steel file cabinet down to a mirror finish a couple of weeks ago and got a lot of great answers. I tried some of the suggestions. What worked best was an orbit sander, starting at 60 and going up to 400. At 400, I could see a pretty good reflection of myself with no scratches.I could have made it perfect if I had kept doing that all over the whole file cabinet.Unfortunately, it would have taken forever to get all the scratches out because while I was learning how to sand it and trying out different tools, different sanding techniques, I made too many scratches. For example I used a belt sander on one entire side, thinking that would be faster. It was faster, but it left deep cuts all over. I had started by sanding off some of the paint with those metal brushes that you attach to a drill. Then when I tried to sand that section with the orbit sander, I couldn't get all the scratches out. Even using really coarse hand sandpaper didn't get the scratches out.So instead of giving it a mirror finish, I decided to go over the whole thing with the metal brushes attached to a drill. See what it turned out like below. I am going to leave it like that.So now I need to know how to finish it. I had been following these instructions but they are not working. The rubbing compound does not disappear when you rub it. It is just smearing brown stuff all over the file cabinet. I do not know what the purpose of this is. It's not appearing to polish anything. It just makes a mess. So after rubbing it with cloths didn't get rid of it, I tried to wash it off. But that was an even worse mistake because now there are small rust spots all over even though I dried it with a dry cloth after washing the file cabinet. Also, washing it made it look dirtier. There are water streaks all over it now. I went to Home Depot but I don't know what to buy. I don't want to ask any of the floor staff because they could just say anything and it might make things worse. A guy at Parts Source told me I should use Metal Polish. He actually told me to go to a jeweller and get jewel polish, but then he suggested this Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream. I don't know if he's right or wrong.So my questions are: How can I remove the brown rubbing compound? Washing didn't get all of it. Am I supposed to buff it off? Apparently you can't use water at this stage. How am I supposed to clean off the mess I made when I was only trying to polish it and make it perfectly clean and shiny before coating it?Assuming I can get it cleaned off and make all the rust spots disappear, what am I supposed to coat it with? How many coats?Is there something you're supposed to do after you coat it? Such as do you polish it then? With what?

Question by noahbody_   |  last reply


making a coil gun help

When i make a coil with magnet wire,i have enamelled wire, do i have to sand the whole thing so the copper touches in the coil, or just the ends going to where im hooking it up? EDIT: i changed my title, because i have more questions about coil guns in general.

Topic by um0123   |  last reply


Other than Obvious Uses for an Old Oster Hand Massager

It seems to me that there should be some other than obvious uses for an old Oster Hand Massager like they used to use in barber shops and gyms. Could one be attached to a glove to allow for some detailed hand sanding, or perhaps for shaking moder paint bottles, or to hold a chisel for wood carving? Seems like there is some potential somewhere...

Topic by Panamaboob   |  last reply


What is the best way to cut Plexiglas or Lexan? Answered

I am building a solar panel, and I need to cut a sheet of Lexan. I have scoured the internet and have come up with a bunch of ways ranging from scoring it to using a jigsaw. None of these seem to yield a good result and a clean edge (even after sanding). I was wondering what your experience was and how you guys cut it or if there are any good resources. Thanks in advance, msweston

Question by mweston   |  last reply


How do the buttons on a calculator work?

My calculator has these black lines (under all the buttons) that are very close but not touching in wavy designs right on the PCB. How do these buttons work? Is there a way I hook up a SMT push button to this? Like I mentioned before, both my calculators have these black traces. Is this a covering over the copper? How would I get to the actual copper? Do I try to sand off the black?  Thanks!

Question by HavocRC   |  last reply


Etching PCB boards

I know that copper is a better conductor than tin or aluminum. But one of my friends a few days ago told me that instead of etching his layout on copper, he used the bottom of an altoids tin. he said all he did was sand the bottom until there was no paint of the altoids can and then he etched his layout. (Chemical bath, toner, etc.) So my question is, Does anyone know how to etch custom layouts (toner layouts) on tin or aluminum? **I figure this could save people some money and time on some projects. :)

Topic by batboy61490   |  last reply


modding an oral irrigator to a blast cleaner?

I got the idea when i saw this: https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-modelers-orbital-sander-out-of-a-toothbrush/ But because i do not own an oral irrigator, i don't know if it's possible. Is the power enough to mod it into an blast cleaner? is the nozzle big enough for any material (sand or backing soda or whatever)? I am unwilling to buy an oral irrigator for relatively much money only to find out that it has no use... it would be useful for postprocessing my 3d-prints.... thanks for answers jodock

Question by jodock   |  last reply


Forced Air Respirator?

I have a a AOS Safety respirator with P100 cartrideges and i think it is time to replace the cartridges, i have used it for hobbies when airbrushing, lathe working, fiberglass sanding, and enamel spray painting.  How do i tell when the cartridges need to be replaced?  Also i was wondering, would it be possible to convert it to a forced air respirator, by taking an old pair of cartridges and cutting out all the filters and stuff and attaching to air hoses, one to each cartridge and using dryer duct alluminum tape to make it air tight.  Then attaching some type of fan to it, or attach it to the houses a/c vent? Would this work?

Question by snowluck2345   |  last reply


I have an above ground pool. I want to buld a saltwater chlorine generator. Does anyone have plans for such a device??

I want to build a salt water chlorine generator for a 16 x 24 above ground pool. I am reasonably mechanical inclined and would appreciate any input from someone who has designed and successfully used such a generator. I currently have a sand filter system cleaning my pool and use large amounts of chemicals. I am a recycler and a green person who does not like to pollute or swim in chemicals. This salt water system sounds like a good idea. lets collaborate.

Question by    |  last reply


Wiring for cosplay - arc reactor - soldering help?

Iron Man cosplay trouble - my soldering iron won't tin, first off. It worked fine last week. I've tried cleaning, sanding off the dirty parts, using flux... I'm stuck. Also, it's heating the solder enough to melt it, but not the wires enough for it to create any kind of connection. It's a pretty small space that I've got to wire everythig in is pretty tight. I could post pics of the set up / ideas for the actual wiring? I've got 6 white LEDs and 2 3v batteries for power.

Question by invisiblecake   |  last reply


How do i build a weatherproof, dust proof video projector enclosure with good airflow for use in a desert enviroment?

I'm going to be using a projector in the desert at night and need to build an enclosure for it. The enclosure will have to have a serious filtering system to keep blowing sand and dust out, it also will have to be able to block any rain that just might fall. While doing all that it must push alot of air out of the box to keep the projector cool enough. It does NOT need climate control because the desert gets really cool at night when ill be using this unit. Ideas?

Question by    |  last reply


How to frost acrylic? Answered

Hi Guys, I'm making a project in which I will need to frost the acrylic (3mm plexiglass) and since frost paint or frosted acrylic is not available around here where I live I will have to use sandpaper. Last time I tried frosting acrylic (6mm plexiglass) with sandpaper (which was 180 or 280) I kinda succeeded, it was frosted ...... until I dropped water on it. What I was left with was lightly sanded acrylic with lots of scratches so I was wondering if anyone could tell me which sandpaper should I use and how should I do it.   Thanks in advance :) -Prickly Potato

Question by The Prickly Potato   |  last reply


How to charge two AA with hydroelectric generator? Answered

For my Sophomore engineering class project I am making a hydroelectric generator that will need to charge two AA or smaller if not enough voltage is possible. The plan is to have my magnets spinning over the wrapped copper coils, but here's where I am stuck. I will have my two leads of the copper wire that are sanded down, but how do I go about charging the AAs form the wires? Do I have the positive copper wire go through some sort of diode then a container for the AAs that go back to the negative copper wire? Thanks in advance for the help. My engineering teacher is frustrating and says that I can go straight into the batteries which I know can't work.

Question by Charles Sparkley   |  last reply


Concept of the system for protection against hail tracking PV power plants Answered

Hello, I have a big request for you. Do you have something of the literature on the "Concept of the system for protection against hail tracking PV power plants" (desirable and protection from the snow; and wind). The respective literature I needed so that I could write a seminar and thus lay the course Project- power plants at the Technical University. This is literature that I found: http://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1274657 , but i need a little more information about "system protection, as well as system control and external anti-interference measures. External interference includes weather influences, such as wind, sand, rain, snow, hail, and salt damage"->this text is from the link above. Thank you very much! Kindest regards! Mario

Question by MarioM28   |  last reply


Has anyone used Rustguy or zero-rust converter products?

I am looking for a fast and easy product for my volunteers to use on a steam engine that is being restored and wondered if these products are any good and worth the $$$ they charge? These products seem to be an improvement over the gloping on of the Naval Jelly and hundreds of man hours of wire brushing and sanding, priming and painting... Just wanted to know from an outside source if these are good and effective so I can recommend them to the Board of Directors and not end up looking like a jerk... They already think I don't know much because I'm younger and a girl! For example, I am still trying to convince them that the engines on static display would look nicer for longer if they used an epoxy based paint instead of exterior house paint! I appreciate any thoughts you have on the two products listed, if you know anything about them! Thanks!

Question by ALMOSTATILLSON   |  last reply


Questions about diffusing LED light. Answered

I've just built a replica arc reactor for Halloween (iron man/Tony Stark) and the light does not display as I would like. I took the diodes from a flashlight so the light is powerful enough to show through my plastic housing. I cut out the pattern to match the lights on the movie, but instead the light shows exactly where the LEDs are placed. I need all of the light I can get to show through a t-shirt, but I need more of a flood effect inside the housing than a beam. First, has anyone tried clipping or sanding the ends of an LED? Do you believe this would adequately diffuse my light without losing too much intensity? Second, can you recommend a better material to diffuse the light such as a specific type of foam? This is my first project to use LEDs so I have no experience. Thanks for your thoughts.

Question by travisttt   |  last reply


CNC mill Q's?

Papa is looking into getting a CNC machine for his business and asked me about what to get. I looked into it for a little while but really I have no clue what is going to be needed. We receive imprints (negatives) of people's feet in a floral-foam like substance and normally clean it up a little and pour a mix of plaster into it to get a positive mold, which needs intensive course and fine sanding in a sink, (as well as adding things like metatarsal pads and other custom things depending on the order) and from that point the ordered material is vacuum formed over and the rest of the insert is made. Because of the shape of the feet and added features, it seems like we could cut out the use of the heavy plaster entirely if we use a 3D scanner to scan in the molds and then mill them out with a very basic 3 axis CNC out of cheaper/more light material for the rest of the processing. The question is, what equipment will be needed? I see some of the cheap 3D scanners are really nothing more than glorified webcams and fancy software, while (guessing the much better) laser scanners are pretty $$$. So how can we scan these imprints into the computer as a 3D file? And what are some good cheap CNC machines that can do the main 3 axises and enough to do 6 to 10 molds at a time?

Question by -max-   |  last reply


Corkscrew Robot - can you do it?

Here's one for the more creative engineers - a robot running on corkscrews instead of wheels or legs. Tim Lexen, an engineer in Cumberland, Wisconsin, has come up with a novel design for robots. It has a triangular body 18 centimetres on a side, capped by a round lid, and three stainless steel coils 20 cm in diameter and 40 cm long. Each coil is turned by a motor - and by activating a coil, the robot can move in the direction of the coil's axis. "It runs very well on grass, sand, gravel and other outdoor surfaces," Lexen said when he presented his work earlier this month at the IEEE International Conference on Technologies for Practical Robot Applications in Woburn, Massachusetts. However, the prototype has trouble gaining traction on surfaces like polished wood floors. Here's the thing though; Lexen's prototype is only radio-controlled.  A human operator chooses what direction to rotate which screws. Given the idea, I bet the clever folk here could not only replicate the corkscrew drive, but make it autonomous. I'd bet an Arduino or Raspberry Pi would be up to the job. Go on - imagine the kudos of beating the boffins at their own game! New Scientist article. Abstract of Lexen's work. Video of robot in action.

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


Can I fix pigment to plastic? Answered

This may be a stupid question, but I'm going to ask it anyway. I bought about $150 worth of candle-making supplies for $5  at an estate sale years ago, but I haven't used any of it for years, due mostly to the fact that I ruined most of the molds before I knew you needed a double-boiler. Oh well. Anyway, amongst all the wax and molds and wick, I got two or three bottles of powdered pigment. I'm now into circuit bending, and now I'm interested in decorating bent instruments. I've worked with paint pens and spray paint, but I thought it might be cool to use the pigment. I don't know how to use it, and I can't find anything about fixing pigment to plastic online.   So, my questions are: -Do I need to mix it in with glue or some fixative, or does it somehow stick to the plastic? and -If I sand the plastic, will the pigment stick in the wells created? If nobody can answer, I can probably find a piece of scrap plastic to test it on, but I thought I might try asking here first. Thanks, Noahh

Question by noahh   |  last reply


2 projects, 2 questions. help? Answered

Hi everybody i have 2 new projects i am working on, and i had some questions about them: 1-wirelessly (bluetooth) controlled LED So this is more or less a starter project, i just got a new laptop with bluetoth and i want to experiment, i figured being able to turn an led on and off via bluetooth would be a good start. 2-Webcam that fits in a PCMCIA slot filler card I think that this project has a better chance of actually being finished than the one above... along with my new laptop, i got one that had a broken screen, it also had a built in webcam. (acer travelmate 5530, the bottom will be used in some other project) I removed the webcam and later i had the thought that maybe it was thin enough to fit in a pcmcia slot. almost. the question here is if i sanded down the plastic parts on the top of the lens (not the lens itself, there is a bit of plastic that bevels around the lens) to the point where it would be thin enough, could someone help me find a pinout of the webcam? all i know is that its usb 2.0, but the connector has 5 wires, 2 of them are ground, but the data + and - and vcc are unknown, the wire colors are different than a normal usb color code. I cannot upload pictures quite yet but i will as soon as i can.

Question by zack247   |  last reply


Hack your Servo V1.00: Make a powerful linear actuator using a standard hobby Servo

Hack your Servo V1.00: Make a powerful linear actuator using a standard hobby Servo   Provided you have the tools and the servo you can built this for under a couple of bucks. The actuator extends with a rate of about 50mm/min. It is rather slow but very powerful. Watch my video at the end of the post where the small actuator lifts 10kg vertically.   Materials List Tools list   - hobby servo - standard hobby brass tubing             -OD: 4.0mm, ID: 3.4mm             -OD: 5.8mm, ID: 4.5mm - standard hobby styrene tubing                                                 -OD: 4.8mm, ID: 3.5mm - M4 studding - 2 x M5 washers - 2 x M4 nuts - 5 minute epoxy - cyanoacrylate - grease - multi-strand cables - heat-shrink tubing   - standard tools – screwdrivers, scalpel, files etc. - dremmel multi-tool with ceramic abrasive disk, or similar - hand-drill + 4.9mm + 2.5mm drill-bits - M3 tap - M4 tap - soldering iron - glue gun - small vice - small saw - sanding paper (relatively fine) - small flame torch         http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/material_tools.jpg Procedure - I will be giving instructions based on the dimensional parameters of the Hitec HS-300. The procedure remains the same for any type servo. I strongly recommend you read the whole post before you start. So lets make a start, shall we?   - Open your hobby servo, remove control electronics, feedback potentiometer and mechanical stop on the servo’s output gear.   - Solder new cables on the servo motor’s leads.   - Drill two 4.9mm holes on the servo case bottom cover. These should be located longitudinally along the centre line and 9.5 mm from each end (this applies on the Hitec HS-300 and is also true for many standard servos but depending on your servo type there might be differences). The M4 thread will come out from the servo body using one of these two so this hole must be located directly below the centre of rotation of the servo’s output gear. Be very careful since this alignment is very important! If you don’t get it right you might have to use a new servo! The more accurate you are, the longer your servo will endure.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/bottomCover_potHead.jpg -  Measure the dimensions of the rotating shaft of the potentiometer on the servo’s original electronics – note the geometry in general. The shaft should be flattened right at the tip in order to prevent it from freely-rotating once inserted into the servo’s output gear.   - Take the M4 studding (M4 thread) pick one end and by using the dremmel and the abrasive wheel tool, replicate the tip of the servo’s potentiometer on that end. Start by decreasing the diameter of the thread, rotating it steadily by hand against the abrasive disk (normally to 3.5mm in diameter and at least 6mm in length). Try to think of your fingers as the chuck of a slow-turning lathe. Once the diameter of the thread is down to the pot’s shaft diameter, flatten the tip according to the potentiometer’s tip. The idea is that the thread must be inserted in the servo’s output gear in the same way the potentiometer did before. The better the fit the longer your servo will endure.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_modofication.jpg - On the flat tip of the M4 thread, screw the two M4 nuts approximately 20mm down its length. Following that, insert the two M5 washers. - Insert the thread inside the servo and adjust the distance of the nuts and washers down the thread such that the servo case bottom cover closes properly and the motor rotates efficiently. Basically, you have to make sure that once the thread and the servo are assembled there is no pressure between the servo case bottom cover and the nut-washer assembly. Similarly, you have to make sure that once the thread and the servo are assembled there is no gap between the servo case bottom cover and the nut-washer assembly. Once again, the better the fit the more your linear actuator will endure.   - Once you find the optimum position carefully disassemble the servo, remove the washers from the thread and use a drop of cyanoacrylate on the side of the nut that was in contact with the washers in the assembly. Let the glue to settle for 5 minutes. Unscrew the second nut by 10mm towards the flat end of the thread, and prepare a small epoxy mix.   - Put the mix between the two nuts and screw the second nut back in place. Once in place also use some epoxy on the back of the second nut as well. Ideally you should sand all contacting areas before you apply the epoxy glue. Leave to settle for at least 6 hours (even if you use a 5 min epoxy).     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/copper_thread.jpg - Secure tightly the 4mm diameter brass tube onto a vice by flattening the mounting end and use the M4 tap VERY carefully tapping as deep as possible (at least 15mm). Using the dremmel cut 10mm out of the threaded part of the tube and then verify that the created thread runs along the whole length of the small threaded tube by screwing it onto an M4 screw. Keep the 4mm threaded tube on the screw for handling purposes. Apply a layer of solder on the outside surface.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_solder.jpg - Take the 5.8mm diameter brass tube pick one end and try to sand at least 5mm into the tube (on the inside). Mount the brass tubing on the vice without squishing it and apply a thin layer of solder on the inside.   - Ignite the flame torch, take the 4mm threaded tube (holding it by the screw) and move it on the soldered end of the 5.8mm diameter brass tube which should still be mounted on the vice. Using the flame torch heat-up both tubes and carefully insert the 4mm threaded tubing inside the 5.8mm tubing until is fully inside. Use a pair of pliers and insert the brass tube by holding the end of the screw that sticks out. Hold the threaded tube levelled inside the 5.8mm tube until the solder settles. If you do not have a flame torch use a candle, your soldering iron and your patience :). Remove the screw. The end result will be the cylinder of your linear actuator.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_cylinder.jpg - The cylinder length should be equal to: the actuator’s desired working length (stroke) + length of the 4mm threaded tube which is inside the 5.8mm tube + 10mm for the mounting hinge at the cylinder end.   - The thread length should be: the actuator’s desired working length (stroke) + length of threaded tube which is inside the 5.8mm tube + length of the thread which resides inside the servo casing, which is model-dependant.   - Take the non-threaded/non-soldered side of the cylinder and drill a 2.5mm hole through, 5mm from the tip.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/cylinder_heatShrink.jpg - Cover the entire length of the cylinder with heat-shrinking tube and cut-off any excess bits. The 2.5mm through holes made earlier on the non-threaded side of the cylinder are now covered. Use the drill again to expose them and tap them through, using the M3 tap. Screw a 20mm long M3 studding or simply cut-off the head of a 20mm long M3 screw. This will act as your cylinder mounting hinge.   - Take the 4.8mm styrene tubing and M4 tap it 10mm deep. Cut a small ring 5mm in length and screw it in the M4 thread fully, from the side of the nut that was in contact with the washers (long side of the M4 thread). This will act as bushing between the thread and the servo’s case bottom cover. Ideally you should use nylon, copper or metal bushing.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_servo.jpg - Secure the motor cables inside the servo casing using a glue-gun and use heat-shrinking tube to cover them. Assemble the servo including the thread, the styrene bushing and the washers.   - Screw-on the cylinder and you are good to go! Here is a video of the small actuator lifting 10kg For those of you that have watched my video on the MTR Rover     will understand where the idea of hacking the servo came from ;))   Soon we will be posting assembly instructions, code and schematics on how to modify a standard servo to get full PID speed and position control with 10-bit resolution over 360 degrees – continuous ;)     I look forward for your comments!    

Topic by Antonb   |  last reply


Tempered glass screen protectors - understand and beware!

I recently had the joy of needing a new screen protector for my mobile after being dumb enough to drop it on gravel. The hard cover took all the impact but the film protector on the screen was scratched badly. Was old and partially worn anyway so I decided to upgrade to a Tempered Glass screen protector. Being somewhere rural I had no chance to get one in a shop so I ordered online. With no intention of advertising for some sellers, I collected a few links so you can check what I am talking about: Item1 Item2 Item3 Item4 Item5 Item6 So, what is my concern with these? They all can be found on amazon and other online services as well as on local markets... As I said I ordered a glass screen protector. If you check these listings and even some of the packing you will notice they all have a thing in common - being shatter proof and of 9H hardness. I also love this video showing how to remove and fix a glass screen protector! The last time I checked glass had one very distinct feature: It is hard and before it really bends it breaks - unless you use fibre optics of fibre glass cloth... What is my concern and warning here? Pretty simple: Stay away from expensive scams! Some claim their screen protector is only 0.25mm thick, even the 0.2mm one I measured was over 0.5mm with the glue... The hardness of 9H refers to the so called Moh's hardness - look it up on Wikipedia if you like. That means these tempered glass protectors would have a similr hardness than a diamond, or at least close to it. Problem is that they are made from plastic to start with and not glass at all. They claims that the screen protector is flexible because it is so thin - again a fake! Even the thinnest tempered glass will shatter if you bend it enough, not so these plastic ones. If you think I am making all this up try to use a really sharp knife or deburring tool and cut the thin sides of one of these protectors. All the ones I tested could be cut quite easy - and I though glass can't be cut with a kinfe... A nice website showing that the scratch resistance is far from the claims can be found here. And a video showing how a real glass screen protector sounds and breaks can be found here. So is it really all bad and should I avoid getting one? Not really if it is only for the added protection. To be clear here, and without the intention to blame any of the above sellers, some protectors actually do have a top layer made from glass and you can hear it as in the above video - it sound solid and not like plastic if you tap it with something hard. Another factor is the simple fact that plastic absorbs impact much better than glass. So where a real glass screen protector might shatter and crack like in the above video, the fake ones might one get a nasty dint or scratch. But you should be aware and clear about what you get and what to expect from it. These glass imitations are made from a strong polycarbonate plastic, similar to the stuff used for bullet and explosion proof "glas" windows - if you every watched the Mythbusters you have seen the big sheets I mean. The top layer of these things is specially treated to repell water, oil and dirt, it also gives the surface the good scratch resistance. The technique is nothing new, camera lenses, plastic sheets and the clear covers you see over the timetable at your bus stop all use it. The new thing is to intentionally mislable a product to make the consumer think it is glass ;) What is the real difference for the user? Check this video. Here a guy performs a drop test with a real glass screen protector. Thing is once the protector breaks the screen itself is broken too but until then it was not too bad. Here it is demonstrated how a real glass screen protector reacts to certain types of abuse - one of the reason I decided on glass. Compared to the plastic counterfeits just the sound on the glass is worth it, but I think the hacksaw was best. Another video from XDA gives a bit more info on how the glass is made - if you can't seeing a phone being abused then don't watch the drop tests at the end ;) Glass with these hardness levels and types of surface protection will give the user a long and worry free use of the phone. The plastic fakes will perform at a similar level for some time but will show signs of wear long before even the top coat of the glass one fails. Both types have their uses and if the fakes would be labeled correctly the user would actually benefit from that. On bigger screens like a tablet I would actually prefer the plastic ones to prevent damage once it needs replacing. On a mobile used in less than perfect conditions I would also go for plastic as it usually is a bit thinner and will fit better within quality hard covers. But when it comes to real abuse like using with dirty fingers most of the time or mostly outdoors where a lot of dust and fine sand can be involved I always go for glass. If you paid attention to the surface treatment then you already realised that the plastic and the glass are in the same region, making them quite scratch resistant. Still fine sand or metal dust will scratch it.... The difference is in the hardness of the actual material that was covered with the oleophobic film. Glass will not give in any way, where plastic is much softer - so not to be confused with the surface hardness! This mean that sharp and point object will easier penetrate the plastic than the glass, something to be considered if you often ecounter harsh use. In terms of actual protection we need to differenciate between surface quality and actual screen damage. After all when badly scratched we can replace the protector but if the display got damaged we are back to square one. The surface hardness was already covered so let's move on to the screen itself. In some of the above videos you can see the abuse a screen might see in normal conditions, and if we would not drop our phones so often repair shops would not be at every corner LOL I have done quite a few screen repairs, mostly for friends and work mates that did not want to pay the hefty extras in a repair shop. From there I got the stories on how it happened and in almost all cases the screen cracked when the phone landed on the corners. In one case the screen and glass protector failed, including the actual display when the phone was dropped out of a 4WD and landed screen first onto a rock. A glass protector will spread the (direct onto the face) impact force onto a much larger area, where a plastic one will produce a dint onto the actual screen much sooner. So again glass wins in terms of actually protecting your expensive screen. But be aware that all this is useless if the phone lands on the corners!! Let me explain: Both the top glass on your screen and the screen protector have a thin layer of "glue". This acts like a shock absorber, so unless an impact goes deep enough so the pressure on the actual screen is too much only the protector should fail. But the screen itself is a tight fit into the frame of the phone, so all side and corner impacts go directly into the glass. As the rest of the glass has no way to give or go the stresses will crack the screen. How should I treat my phone with the new screen protector? Exactly the same way you would without it of course. But if you don't have a proper cover that offers protection of the corners you should invest in one. Having a quality protector and a good case does not mean your phone can be used as a football, see it as an added insurance in case something does go wrong. For obvious reason it can also pay off to have a spare at hand, if something bad happens that requires replacement of the protector you won't be left with an unprotected screen ;) Last but not least, double it up: For people that already know their screen will see a fair bit of abuse in term of scratches it is a good idea to put an extra film protector onto the glass one. Once it is too scratched you peel it off and replace it, while the glass protector gives you the actual protection for your screen. Corning Willow glass As time of wrinting Corning Willow glass is the only "flexible" glass on the market, unless stated with your flexible screen protector you can assume it will be just plastic. I did not list it above as this high tech material is mainly reserved for displays and at least to my knowledge is not available for screen protectors, although I will stand corrected as I have to assume some big players use it for their protectors. The material is actually a sandwich where an ultra thin sheet of glass stis bewteen two layers of durable coating, read it up on their website it is quite interesting. It won't reach the strength of their famous Gorilla glass so without an outer plastic that has the additional oleophobic coating it won't provide the strenght of real tempered glass protectors. Some phones like the Galaxy Round and the fleixble HTC phones use it for example.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


I want to Make a HUGE "3D printed" sculpture of a PACHAMAMA DRAGON with a drop fountain in it's eyes and a sensor smoke machine and more.(HOW CAN I DO IT?)

I have close to 0 pratical skill in arduino and raspberry,Questions: What`s the easiest way to make a sensor so when people are close to the head it starts crying in drops (maybe gold like liquid or glow in the dark liquid or red liquid)What`s the easiest way to make a sensor connected to a smoke machine? Where can I buy a drop water fountain?MORE IMPORTANT:What are the name of the professionals who can help me tech the dragon? does anyone knows cool things I could add to the dragon to animate it somehow?Maybe an entrance to put coins and money and some lights would light the whole dragon from inside, maybe a foam machine on the mouth or a flametrower.Is there any light that with a special bulb or opaque acrylic that stays smooth like a car`s neon and not localized when seeing it directly? how could i light the dragon in an epic way , having in account that the dragon has a rooted intricate body and we can put lights inside? maybe i can put the lights. Who is the professional who can put wholes for the lighting system and it-s wiring on the 3d model before we print it?______________________________________________________________________________________________I Will reproduce this model of this dragon (https://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/3d-rigging-motion-paths-model-1150078) and MIRA ARTS RESHAPED SO IT LOOKS LIKE IT'S BODY IT'S MADE WITH THE ROOTS OF AMAZON,like this one(https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/mira-arts/forest-dragon) , rigged again in an epic way to fit inside a particular room along the walls, with a 2m wide head and an asian dragon body so it can spiral and swirl and curve around the room, like the walls are water, maybe even go behond walls outside and trough windows.it will have simple sensors so when you're close to the head it activates smoke machines there, maybe an "Ha" soundwith the help of architects, we will assemble the creature on site.I will reproduce it with around 500$ of cardboard sheets laser etched in topographical layers (PRICE) with the help of 123dmake (check it out), maybe then plastered and sanded down.like this tutorial until step 4. (https://www.instructables.com/id/Fine-Art-from-Cardboard/)with this system we can 3D print the dragon and anything imaginable at a Giant Epic scale!I'm going to kickstart this project ______________________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________ Fluff to save the World: I will name the Artpiece with a long name "Niu Pachamama Dragon :Bolsonaro, me muda o nome da Amazonia para Pachamama para ter um lugar mais visível no Google para salvarmos a Pachamama, vai!" or in english: "Mr.Bolsonaro (Brazil's President), can you change the name of Amazon Forest to just Pachamama so it can have better ,non confusing google searches and we can finally save it from ilegal deforestation?"Amazon has been unconsciously hidden UNDER Amazon Company IN WEB SEARCH ENGINES for too long,it doesn't have any clicks on search engines, it needs a legit different name for it's core to survive on aND PUMP the PLANET TROUGH THE internet.This way the company and the forest can coexist in different non intersecting google "cupboards" without any confusion for kids and adults alike.If the president changes the name OF aMAZON TO PACHAMAMA TROUGH THIS DRAGON SPLASH, we can bring tons of attention to Pachamama, the New Amazon AND POTENTIALY SAVE THE WORLD!.eCK!For 2020 WE CAN EVEN BE CELEBRATING 3SMAS INSTEAD OF CHRISTAMAS, WHERE INSTEAD OF TORNING DOWN A PINE TREE EACH FAMILY PLANTS 10 PLANTS!MERRY 3SMAS EVERYBODY, TREES MUST SURVIVE!THEI'RE ALIVE!The dragon has become a global symbol for epicness, Myth, entertainment fantasy monster,But the Virgin Amazonian Augmented Dragon or new Pachamaman Dragon CAN BECOME The transcendental symbol of good hope FOR PACHAMAMA,meaning, a guide to Brazilian politicians to "Get a legit Google cupboard for amazon RIGHT NOW!",protector of treasure with the TREASURE representing the Forests, specially the amazon, and hope that we can still save and act for all the forests of the world!a nEW PACHAMAMAit represents the fertility of the amazon, also IT'S deforestation,it's brutality, and future connection with mankind!iMAGINE THAT! and the dragon has an augmented DBZ scouter on the eye that represents the Good side of transcendental connection between human and machine(equals dragon, a symbol of leadership)(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/xiKcimY1iEc/maxresdefault.jpg) It represents the new transcendental connection with technology, you can have a google glass augmented "game" where you become an instant druid in the rainforest, with the camera reckognizing everyplant and medicine that you wish, and dosages for it, and where to get the next one for the recipes AND HOW TO PREPARE THEM.

Question by DIAGONALLIS 


Options to improve cooling and reduce consumption for portable coolers

I recently had to start learning how to service airconditioners on the fast and that learning got me thinking about my portable coolers.... Some of us like to go camping or on longer fishing trips, so there might be one of those 3-way fridges in use or a better cmpressor model. The one thing they all have in common is that they can only cool down to a difference in ambient temperatures. No matter which way we turn it the cooling produces heat and that needs to get away somehow. The other big thing is the cooling cycling - or the lack of it on a warm day. After some reading and thinking I came up with some ideas that might be applicable to your existing cooler if you are willing to mess around a bit. Let's start with the produced heat, shall we? Down here in Australia most people either have the fridge in their4WD or camper. In a car or small camper trailer there is often the problem of airflow, so the cooler might be doing overtime for no other reason than a lack of airflow. If you check online sites like Amozon and Ebay you quickly find fan systems meant to be installed inside the cooler to get lower temperatures and a quicker cooling of fresh goods. The thing is that the box is quite well insulated and the benefit of the airflow goes only as far as it can reach. And even if the box is quite empty and you would have a benefit of the cold air moving around it won't change the fact that "improved" cooling always comes with more heat in this case. But if we use one of these fan systems to actually improve the airflow on the hot side we not only get better cooling but also a reduce power consumption - something worth considering if you have no backup power generator.... This of course brings us to placement. As I have done the mistake myself you might be tempted to put a 3way cooler onto your seat. Opening it with the back free means the lid always gets stuck on the seat, do it the other way around and you block the airflow. If you do put it on the seat then make sure two things match: 1. The thing is secured properly. 2. The airflow from your aircon is able to reach the hot side of the cooler. Even permanent installations in a camper benefit from a good airflow. Often the fridge or freezer is built into some sort of bench and the airflow behind might be very limited. A simple solution here is to add a vent on top of the bench to allow the hot air to escape. A better one is to use a fan that is powered together with the heating element or compressor and drives the hot air to the outside. How to improve the cold side of the box or fridge? Well, to be honest there is not much that can be done unless you are prepared for some serious work. Depending on compartment size, contents and how full it is a little fan can help to keep the temperatures even but it won't help to get it cooler or reduce the cycling periods for the cooling. The only really working way that I found is to use a "battery" for the storage of the cold. The cooling works by checking the inside temp of the box and if above the set temp the cooling won't stop. This is all well and good while we have a constant supply of power but once we are on batteries it would be great to keep the active time to a minimum. A working solution is to build a container that fits around the cooling element. Smaller types often use an aluminium heatsink, bigger types might come with a compressor and an evaporator. In either case proper sealing is important! Most good models are fully waterproof, meaning even if you would fill them with water they would not leak in other areas than the door. But double check and if in doubt use a bit of silicone to make sure. Ok, but how do we "store" the cold coming from the device? Cold packs ;) These things contain a ready to use mix that holds cold temperatures quite well. Another really good alternative is alcohol or radiator coolant, although the last has limited capabilites in terms of holding capaity for the cold as it is desinged to exchange heat fast rather than to keep it. With a suitable sized and sealed box around the active cooling element we will need longer to actually see any cooling happen (with a warm "battery") but that can be compensated for by good planning or a frozen water bottle. If the cooling element is covered with a box of cooling gel then it has to cool this first before anything happens inside the box. But once it does the pack is already far below the normal temp it would have during normal operation. Remember the inside of the cold pack cools down first before the outside will get cold ;) So once the set temperature is reached the device will shut off. But since the cold pack is far below the set temp it will continue to cool our box until the core is warmer than the set temp. Quick thinkers will now say the benefit is lost as the time required to cool the "battery" down again is much longer than the normal cycle time - and they would be correct. But as we get much colder temps inside the gel box the overall running will still be less compared to normal operation. And since from the second cycle on the gel is only warming up to operating temp of the box it will be much faster than with a warm box. Another benefit might be the ease of cleaning and ice removal. Some peltier driven coolers have big cooling fins or a quite bad design for the heatsink allowing mould to grow where you can't remove it easy. If the box is made from stainless steel and flush with the back wall of the box we won't have that problem anymore. Ok, but how much is good or too much for the size and gel content? You got me there as it is bit tricky. You don't want to loose much usable space for starters and you don't want to wait hours for the gel to cool down if the box was not used. IMHO the size should fit the cooling element with about 20% to spare all around. If stainless steel is not an option than aluminium is the next best choice. Thin sheets can either be be cold formed with a hammer or "brazed" with a good torch and the right rods. Ok, before that route is there anything I should consider or do first? Depends ;) 3-way systems usually use a flame or heating elements to heat an ammoia solution. After years of neglect corrosion can form and reduce the amount of heat transfered into the system and reducing the efficiency this way. It might help to take the heating elements out once a year or so to clean them and the contact areas from any corrosion or dirt build up. With a fixed shedule for this you won't have the problem of never noticing a badly corroded heating element either - and this is the main failure on these systems.... Modifying your camper or making a few mods to your 4WD drawer system is not for the faint of heart and should be done with consideration. The last thing you want to do is rush things to find out it was not necessary. Before cutting holes check if you can't find the room for the fan in a different spot and use ducts to control the airflow - sometimes it is easier to blow air in than to get air out ;) When it comes to creating vents or connections for air to the outside always make sure it is waterproof and insect safe! If you can let the outlet go downwards so water won't run in, for 4WD trailers consider a flap to prevent water from going during a river crossing. Flyscreens will not only prevent insects from coming in but on the inside also prevent dust to go eerywhere - allow to the removal and cleaning! The salts used in these cold packs can be corrosive, so you have to make sure there are no leaks and that there is no steel to come into contact with gel - this includes screw ends hidden in through-holes. If in doubt use a coat of paint but keep it as thin as possible. Even on peltier systems it might be impossible to remove the heatsink without massive surgery on the internals. So before you take it all apart to gain access check if it is far easier to seal around the box opening and possible screw connections using silicone. The cooling battery can be screwed on and sealed with silicone as well as an easy escape route. Although for this to work you need to check if the material of the box allows for a proper bond with the silicone! Some materials just won't allow anything to stick at all, even after sanding them. So do a test first in an area where you would be able to cut the silicone away without causing damage. If you can rip or peel it off the surface you should not try to use a cooling battery screwed to the wall, only use a box that is fully sealed with the cooling element and has a seperate back - one complete unit around the cooling element. I have a 3-way system with a freezer compartment that does the cooling for the fridge too - what can I do? These units either provide good freezing with the fridge temps too low or good fridge cooling with no freezing capabilites - depending on the thermostat used. Our problem is that is next to impossible to add a cooling battery of the normal kind to these systems. The L-shaped freezer box can really only be added with a L-shaped cooling battery from underneath. Only if you don't need any freezing at all you could add a cooling battery to fit into the freezer box shape. In either case the benefit is somehow limited by the way the thermostat is used. If there is no temp control for freezing it should be fine. Warnings... Only peltier driven coolers are free from refrigerants. Every 3-way or compressor system uses refrigerant as evident by more or less piping and heating elements. Never attempt to screw anything into a cooling element containing refrigerant! Even if you think between the channels all will be fine it won't be! The material is just pressed to form the channels and any damage caould mean refrigerant leaking out! Use silicone instead and make sure all surfaces are properly cleaned before applying it, also wait until the silicone is really fully cured before putting any stress on it. As said, these cooling gels can be corrosive, especially if DC voltage is involved. Make sure that everything that is not aluminum or plastic is properly sealed before allowing ongoing contact with cooling gels. Do not attempt any of this if you have to ask yourself what tools you might need or how make a suitable container for the gel. If in doubt check Google on how to work with aluminium or stainless steel if there are not enough Instructables for it. The gel will expand a little bit if it freezes, this no problem in a metal container if you allow for a bit of flex or on the side added strength  - whatever suits you better. Another option is to get a few different cold packs (by the active ingredient) and to do a check in a little container. Freeze it and note whe level cold and warm. Little to no difference means nothing to worry in terms of expansion during freezing.

Topic by Downunder35m