Sorry about all the questions. Hi, I want to upgrade this to 7.4v so that I can run it from lipo. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/319 Preferably I would like a motor that snaps right in. Has anyone upgraded theirs?
Question by David97 | last reply
My question is that is it possible to change the motors on a gearbox like this(http://www.abra-electronics.com/products/70168-Tamiya-Double-Gearbox.html) and try to fit a slightly larger one like this(http://www.abra-electronics.com/products/29DM12V-Single-Shaft-6V%252d12V-DC-Motor.html). By the way, the reason im planning to change the motor is because my motor shield(Adafruit) needs a motor thats 4.5-25v and the one that comes with the gearbox isnt enough.
Question by vek11 | last reply
Right now my robot has a twin motor tamiya gearbox and 2 wheels in back and a servo with 2 wheels hot glued to it in front for steering and an arduino duomilanove for the brain and it works pretty good except there are no sensors so its not really a robot at all! What I want to do now is buy a sensor that will be able to make my robot avoid obstacles and my track my hand or something. I have ben looking at some sonar sensors, ping sensors, and those sharp ir sensors but i don't know what to pick. It would be great if someone could help me out also I am just getting started so something not tooooo hard to use i mean im up to the challenge though.
Question by Tanners | last reply
I have a tamiya dual gearbox hooked up to a tamiya tank base. i found the one side's track goes faster that the other.. how can i fix that? i tried reversing polarity but the same side goes faster... i have the motors hooked up in series.. thanks!
Question by Chowmix12 | last reply
I am working on a robot that will have a grabbing claw, of sorts, and I'm not sure what gear motors to use to actuate the claw. It needs to have significant gripping power, so the gear motor must be low-RPM and high torque. The two best options I have found so far are these: 1. 12VDC Gear Motor, 7 Rpm 2-7/16" x 1-5/16" Dia. 2. Tamiya 70110 4-Speed Crank-Axle Gearbox Kit If I used the Tamiya gearbox, I would also have to buy higher voltage motors, so the cost of the two is approximately equal. Because of its layout, I think the Tamiya would be easier to use, but I'm worried about stripping the plastic gears. Also, I have a smaller Tamiya gearbox, and the axle has some play in it and is extremely noisy. The 12V gear motor, on the other hand, appears to be more robust and probably has metal internal gears, but it would make my robot a bit larger. Does anyone have experience with Tamiya gearboxes? How do they handle high loads? If anyone has any input on these two choices, or other motors you think would be even better, I'd really appreciate the help. Thanks!
Topic by ben_k | last reply
I am trying to purchase a replacement for my RC vehicle (TAMIYA RARE XB MERCEDES BENZ CLK-DTM 2000 RC RACE CAR). I wouldnt want to just purchase one from amazon as i dont know if it will work or not. Can i get a suggestion if there is a cheap one that could work and cost not above $50. Thanks
Question by ThlamaU
Hi everybody, im barely started writing sletch so i need help, i build a obstacle robot and i used arduino uno r3 seeed motor shield v2.0 one servo tamiya twin motor gear box hc-sr04 sensor so i dont really know how to start writind the sketch.....
Question by salvador.lopez1 | last reply
Hi, I want to get a good tracked platform for my arduino. I was looking at the dfrobotshop rover but decided that it was too pricey and slow for what I wanted. I was also looking at the tamiya and rover 5 platforms but decided that they all were too slow (but had a appealing prise range). Anyway what would be a good cheap track platform for arduino that had some speed? Thanks, David.
Question by David97 | last reply
I have an Ardumotor shield and the Arduino UNO. I want to use a motor that wont be too high or too low for the Ardumoto. I also plan on getting a gearbox to increase torque on my tank(like this: http://www.abra-electronics.com/products/70168-Tamiya-Double-Gearbox.html)
Question by vek11 | last reply
For the past couple days I have been looking through the internet for the perfect battery and charger for very little and i think I found it!!! Please let me know if you think this battery and the charger will be compatible and will charge properly. I intend on cutting the leads of so I can have matching leads (so the battery and the charger can connect obviously) Here is the battery I intend on purchasing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-4V-1600MAH-20C-Lipo-Battery-1-18-Car-RC-Traxxas-Tamiya-HPI-Mini-Z-/271005789069?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash;=item3f19342b8d Here is the charger I intend on purchasing to charge the battery: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-8-4V-1A-Charger-2S-7-4V-LiIon-LiPo-Battery-Pack-US2-/220715406621?pt=Battery_Chargers&hash;=item3363a9d51d Please let me know if this charger will be able to charge the battery! Thank you so much for all your guys help! I love instructables, everyone helps everyone out!
Question by jnajmy | last reply
Hey there, I'm planning to build a portable stereo speaker box thingy (you know what I mean). In order to power the 2x10W amplifier I want to use a 7.2V 1400mAh battery pack from an old RC car. As the housing of the box will be sealed I want to implement a mechanism to charge the pack. For this I wanted to achieve 3 things: -If the Power-Switch is turned on, the amp should be powered from the power line -If the Charge-Switch is turned on, the battery pack should be charged -If both of the switches are turned on, the amp should receive power from the power line while the battery pack is being charged. I have thought of the following cabling (see attached picture for a schematic) The blue box is the amplifier, the green box the battery pack and the orange connectors are tamiya connectors (the ones for RC cars) The first switch (marked in green) is a normal DPST switch which establishes the connection with the power line as well as the connection with the battery The second switch is a SPDT switch and activates either the connection between the battery and the amp or the connection between the power line and the battery. Will this work the way I think it will or does this configuration any faults? If the latter, what can I do I have to change? I'm actually really new to electronics, this if my first project so forgive me, if this setup is actually BS Cheers and sorry for the long post ^^'
Topic by Felixkeeg | last reply
Hi Guys, Im a keen modeller and build rc 1:14 scale trucks, I'm trying to build a trailer as many have done that uses a potentiometer which is turned when the lorry turns and the trailer follows through the tow pin, this then turns a servo that makes the rear wheels of the trailer steer creating rear wheel steering. the servo doesn't start turning till the pin is turned about 5 degrees either way, allowing the lorry to reverse easier as the rear steering won't work if not turning past the 5 degrees. On the trailer it has a detachable neck that is driven by a motor. Another servo or small motor to lower and raise the loading ramps Another motor that raises and lowers the legs to support the trailer when disconnected from the lorry. All of this I would like to be able to control separate from the lorry, so i can press a button and the legs will lower and lorry can drive away without wires going from one to the other. Ive attached some videos to give you some idea of what I'm trying to achieve This video has a circuit board that they refer to as E.T.S. Module (electronic trailer steering) This has been made by a fellow member but wants big money for them, it controls the rear wheel steer and neck detach motor, sorry its a long video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioOHjobQPho&spfreload;=10 This next video you can see the movement pause, roughly 5 degrees each way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0MvFHVAa1w Im trying to achieve one board that can control the items above and be somehow wireless or link in with my rc gear, Hope you guys can help. Many thanks
Question by brummy2002 | last reply