Does any one know how i may make a waterproof webcam i want to study my fish from inside the tank
Topic by TT__TT | last reply
I am hoping to build an underwater robot and am not sure about the circuit. It would include a motor and a battery. Is there any way to waterproof a circuit so I could be able to modify it? (Ex. change the battery.) Thanks!
Question by DELETED_afw11 | last reply
Garmin 765T GPS Has anyone attempted to make one of these units suitable for use on a motorcycle ? This would entail a waterproof mount of some description and address any issues with over heating
Question by teppy dumppy | last reply
Question by flixs | last reply
the phone is specifically a samsung gravity 2.
Question by NatureBoom21 | last reply
I want to make a boat for school with an electric powered battery motor with a switch, which can drive a propeller in the water. it must be water proofe but if it cant anything as close as possible.
I'm trying to make a very simple motion sensor which will turn on and off a few LED lights with the movement of the car wheel, the only tough part is it needs to be installed inside a cars wheel cap and i can only use salvaged parts. i need to make it waterproof and shock proof too so that the parts don't just fall off if the car is moving at a high speed...
Question by randomizator | last reply
I want to make a depth gage to fit into a submergable watch. a power source is also needed to fit.
Question by sammy mast | last reply
I need someone to build a device that measures sunlight level data, stores it on the device and outputs via USB. The device needs to be small (soda can size or smaller), battery powered and water proof.
I understand the operation for capacitors, which make a lot of intuitive sense to me, and seems deceptively simple. I know that the derivative of the voltage across a capacitor (the slew rate, if you will) is proportional to the current, for a given capacitance. So when the voltage is not changing much, like when it is connected across power supply rails, and the capacitor has little-to-no current flowing through it, and it appears as a high impedance. Fair enough. And when I am winding up the wick on the constant-voltage power supply, so that the slew rate is constant, and the voltage is changing at a constant rate, the current will be relative to how fast that voltage rising/falling. Again, that makes sense. I have proven that to myself time and time again. The technical math way of showing all that is this: dV/dT * C = I or with units plugged in: d(volts)/d(seconds) * Farads = Amps (or something like that) Likewise, I know that I can do things in reverse, and that forcing a controlled current through the capacitor, that the slew rate of the voltage across the capacitor will be proportional to that. In other words; the voltage will be integrated over time (as it steadily rises or falls). I do not like integrals in math (esp. when they require by parts or partial fractions!), but the concepts do come in handy in practical design! This is also my 2nd favorite way of imagining what an integral are! (My favorite is actually the water cup or well analogy, where a water faucet or hose is a function, and a the level of water in the cup, pool, well, etc. is the integrated result. That makes the function of integrals really clear and deceptively easy LOL!) So, I basicly have been trying to figure out how to take these simple, easy-to-understand relationships, and take ohms law, and have a super basic RC circuit, with 5V, 5 ohms, and 0.1F. I have so far figured out how to take ohms law, substitute I in the capacitor formula, and get a function. HOWEVER, this is where I get stuck. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here is the circuit: +5V---(V2)-----/\/\/\/\/\/----(V1)-----| |-------0v----(grd) So after having a bit of a think, I have figured out that I really need to account for 2 different V's. The 5V power supply, V2, and the voltage across the capacitor, V2. I know that the current flowing through everything in a series circuit is the same, so then I can easily figure out current by calculating the voltage drop across the resistor which is this: I = (V2 - V1) / R So now, lets plug that into the mysterious capacitor derivative thingy: (All I did was substitute the I in the capacitor formula with the that ohms law formula above.) dV(1)/dT * C = (V(2) - V(1) ) / R. -------------------------------------------------- Now, I just plug in the values, and simplify as much as I can, to make it more friendly to my eyes. C = 0.1F, and R = 5 in my case, since I am using a 5 ohm resistor, 100mF capacitor, and I know V2 = 5V, since that is the output of a 7805 voltage reg. d(V(1))/dT * 0.1F = (5V - V(1) ) / 5ohms. That dV/dT is a bit hard to look at, so I will use V prime, or V' to represent that instead: V(1)' * 0.1 = (5 - V(1)) / 5 I do not know how to simplify that further though, to end up with that weird inverse exponential curve that is the time constant thingy, with that decaying charging curve. I have V on one side, and V' on the other side. :( So this is how far I got: 5 + (1/2 * V(1)') = V(1) EDIT: I HAVE ADDED THE PROOF HERE IF YOU WANT IT
Question by -max- | last reply
Landwheel drive is the newest drive system for skateboards that can be mounted under any deck. Just unscrew your rear truck and replace it with the landwheel Drive . Specification of Landwheel Skateboard Drive: Model Landwheel Drive( Dual Brushless in-wheel motors) Distance 20km Power 2 X 1100W Max load: 120kg Max Grade 20% Waterproof Water and dust proof (IP65) Frame Material Aluminum alloy + ABS Battery Li-Poly batteries Range 12-15km Weight 3.2kg (Include Battery) Size: 313 x 174 x 41 mm Certificate CE, FCC, RoHs, MSDS, UN38.3 Details of electric skateboard drive : 1. The Motors Two in-wheel motors Power 2* 1100w Topspeed 35km/h Maximum Grade 20% Water and dust proof (IP65) Freewheeling when you push Exchangeable wheels 2.The Frame Solid magnesium single frame Click-in mechanism for the battery 3. The Battery Pack Range 12-15km Charge 2-4hours Weight 700g Energy 94.08Wh Capacity 3200mah Swappable via click-in mechanism Certified for airtravel Water and dust proof (IP54) 4. The Remote One button device Switch between 2 riding modes LED displaying state of charge Rubber coated for better grip Safety wrist strap
Topic by Hollie hua
Sheets of touch sensitive material seem perfect for giving robots a "skin" of sorts. This could easily allow for something along the lines of a robot pet that can tell when it is being petted. It would also be useful for robot grippers, to allow the robot to hold on without applying too much force. With a layer of durable plastic between the circuit and the cloth, the robot could be made water resistant. Not really sure where else to take this, but I think touch sensitive, water proof skin (and also whiskers) would go a long way to making better robot dogs and cats, and probably other kinds of robots.
Topic by MDude
So, a friend and I were looking at something NASA published a while ago. It was a call for a tiltrotor craft that could carry 55 people, could land either in water or on land, and could suck up water for use in firefighting. It was also meant to be a civilian craft. Anyway, we started to get an idea in our heads about designing some sort of tiltrotor rc thing or perhaps a UAV. We're both mechanical engineering majors and have some experience with aerodynamics, programming, electronics systems and rc aircraft. I was wondering if anyone had some good suggestions as to the design of this. One of the things we weren't quite sure about was what we would use for a power supply. Appreciate the help. *Note, if we actually build anything it will only be a small scale proof of concept prototype built from inexpensive parts.
Question by SG1Oniell | last reply
I want to be able to take the mobile card, water proof it. Attache it to the back of the dish, run an antenna from the front also connected to the the cable with a power hookup. The idea is to raise the wifi signal as well as place the unit anywhere in the house to get a strong db. I was in Puerto Rico a few months ago and because the homes are sometimes built into the side of a hill the signals are weak. This challange should be easy but cheap and can be built with things that are availiable. Broken computers, wires, discarded sat dish and batteries.
Question by psbcarlos | last reply
Firesleeve(Silicone Coated Fibreglass Sleeve) 1)Silicone rubber coated fiberglass sleeve(sleeving) - Protects hoses, cables and wires. from molten metal splash, high heat hazards and occasional exposure to flame, in steel plants, glass plants, foundries, cutting and welding shops and wherever hoses, cables and wires may be exposed to high heat or occasional flame. Fireproof sleeve also may be used to insulate your race cars plumbing system. 2)Continuous protection to 500F, short term exposure thru 2200F Extremely flexible and conformable through out entire size range at temperatures -65F thru 500F. 3)Impede heat radiation of flame 4)Protect operator from burning by hot pipe 5)Impede heat lost and favor to saving energy 6)Moisture-proof, water-proof, resistance to oil and pollution 7)Color: red and blue mainly. 8)Bore diameter(mm):15,20,25,30,35,40,45,50,55,60,65,70,75,80,90,100,110,120,130;(Sizes from 1/4" I.D. to 6" I.D.) Yancheng Hengsheng Insulation Co.,Ltd Web: http://www.hsinsulation.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Tel :+86-139-61986280 Fax : +86-515-88430696
Question by firesleeve
I have a led bulb which is 5w and I also have a homemade light bulb powered by a phone charger say also 5w. Question is Am I really saving any energy by using a phone charger unit it states it uses 5w? am I using 5w while is plugged 5w or am I using mAX OF 5W OF IT? DOES IT ALSO use 5w when it is only plugged but not powering my led bulbs . bulbs 5v 1 amp, 50 leds. thanks in advance. Also do you know a way to make a water proof glue at home?
Question by celalboz | last reply
Hi all, I have an idea for an Arduino based instrument cluster for my cafe racer (1980 xs400). My question is what kind of rotary encoder I should use to measure the rotation from the cables coming from the engine block and front wheel that went to the original cluster (shown in pictures). I want something that won't break at higher RPMs and is more or less water proof. I have an idea of how to code this on the software level as well, but I'm not to experienced with C/C++ so any help there would also be appreciated. The end goal for this part of the cluster is to output the RPM and MPH to respective WS2812B 5050 LED strips, and possibly a small oLED later down the line. If something could be made more clear on this post let me know and I'll try to elaborate. Thanks again
Question by AedanGraves | last reply
Hi All, I'm looking at modifying our existing Spa controls with a Touch screen system that combines the functionality of the radio remote for the Spa controller & the remote control panel for the Spa heater. I also want it to be able to run the Sonos software and possibly do lighting control down the track. I would like to leave the existing water proof remote operational if possible but that assumes I can get the new 434MHz module in the microcontroller talking to the existing Rx in the Spa Controller and dont have to replace it. Im interested in any comments particularly as which mini computer to use. Price is a concern of course by function is more important. I havent worked out how to power it yet as there is no easy solution without nearby power points or network ports for PoE. I may perhaps go solar but not sure yet. It may be easier to run a cable for somewhere. Any insights much appreciated...
Topic by BrettB55
I am still trying to build a half decent absorption fridge/freezer for the hot summer days down here. Usually anhydrous ammonia and water is used for these old style systems. Problem is that destilling it at home is not the nicest thing, especially in the currently hot weather. So I called up a few refrigeration guys to inquire on the price of some Ammonia if they fill the system for me instead. No matter how I try these guys will only fill certified systems but nothing build in your backyard that is missing the required certifications. Not even for a proof of concept to see if it is working and the gas removed when done with that. Was also informed that making or just having highly concetrated or even anhydrous ammonia would require that I obtain a permit first :( Big question: What are the alternives for R707 or Ammonia in an old style "Icy Ball" system? Small question: Has anyone done it and is willing to share some tips here?
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
Whenever you want to finish a prototype, what kind of checklist do you go thru? things like: How do you decide what case design to use, what materials for that same case, how to solder everything up, what makes you decide if you "lock" the Arduino on that project forever by soldering everything around it. If you decide to make it modular, what techniques do yo use. What kind of material do you use to attach everything together: Hot glue? close everything down with screws, nails, staples (...)? How would you make it water-proof or resistant to the weather (if it was something to be outside for a long time). If you have to use a lot of cable, do you solder everything up with heat shrink tubing? When do you use connectors and what kind of connecters do you use? I would love to see a video tutorial on how to properly finish up a project, and make it look beautiful inside a case.
Question by SgtOneill | last reply
I have a large and good working bug zapper that just had the UV florescent tubes burn out. After pricing out new tubes. which are expensive, it occurred to me to try using UV LED's in place of the tubes. Physically there would be no problem. I can use a 3 inch PVC pipe and wrap the LED string around it. Secure it to the frame and replace the ballast with power supply. Anyway, I am wondering about the high voltage which will only be a short distance away, perhaps an inch. Would the voltage effect the LED's? Perhaps an EMF pulse? or are they pretty well isolated and protected? I am using the ones that are coated with water proofing. Has anyone ever tried using them in a high voltage situation? I have planned on trying this and have already ordered the LED string. I am just trying to foresee potential problems. I also wonder why I haven't seen any with LED's on the market. Am I actually ahead of the curve on this one?
Question by Vyger | last reply
Whenever you want to finish a prototype, what kind of checklist do you go thru? things like: How do you decide what case design to use, what materials for that same case, how to solder everything up, what makes you decide if you "lock" the Arduino on that project forever by soldering everything around it. If you decide to make it modular, what techniques do you use. What kind of material do you use to attach everything together: Hot glue? close everything down with screws, nails, staples (...)? How would you make it water-proof or make the project resistant to the weather (if it was something to be outside for a long time). If you have to use a lot of cable, is there any good pratice you would suggest? When do you use connectors and what kind of connectors do you use? I would love to see a video tutorial on how to properly finish up a project, and make it look beautiful inside a case. :) Thank you all.
Topic by SgtOneill | last reply
This is about home security. I have posted another security question on single LEDs in the same category. We have a remote house under construction at the end of a cul-de-sac. My idea was to create some type of motion-activated single flash strobe or LED burst of light. This light would be installed at the cul-de-sac and the motion sensor could be further away. I just want to create this big flash so that any one coming around in the wee hours has to decide if they just had their picture taken and do they want to go further. The strobe would just flash once like a camera flash, not flashing repetitively. So the final product would have to be weather and water proof. The house is about 200' from the cul-de-sac but there are a number of empty, underground PVC conduits run from the house electrical panel which could be used to run out 120v or low voltage wiring. I've looked everywhere on the net. The closest I could find were cameras that are made to take flash photos of animals at night and are motion activated.
Question by GTinWA | last reply
Some might have already tried my first induction heater, which was more a proof of concept than a modern device. Although I like to keep things simple where possible I want to upgrade my heater to a fully electronic version running on mains power. This time the base concept is to use a cheap induction cooktop for the control and power source. After using a few already as a communication device I realised it is a costly way of producing smoke signs but I am getting on the right track with the design now. So my obvious questions are: 1. Did actually anyone ever built my current induction heater and if so, can you provide some nice pics? 2. If you were interested in a hobby induction heater, what would like to do with it? E.g: Just for curiosity on how it works, heat treatment of punches, chisels and similar, heat treating knifes or even swords, sheet metal work.... 3. What would like to have included? E.g: Water cooling for continous use, air cooling (mostly for smaller and quick jobs), exchangable coils, additional micro controller for temp, water and remote control (foot panel or similar)... 4. Do you require a fully shielded version to avoid interference? 5. If you are based in AU (preferable VIC): Would you be able to donate me faulty (partially or fully) or working induction cooktops, for example discarded units with broken glass tops? Would you able to donate me copper tubing OD8mm or less? Leftovers from pluming installations, old LPS systems or similar? Prefered lenght 1m or longer as the coils need quite a few turns... :( Each donor will of course be listed in the Instructable unless you prefer to remain unnamed. Let me know what you think because this time I am not just building for myself, this time it is for you!
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Yes, I know it's nearly 3am on the east coast... but and idea struck me. So the idea is to feed small amounts of mechanical power into the power grid. Not necessarily run the meter backwards, but supplement power consumption.I've researched grid tie inverters - which are very expensive. For those wondering, a grid tie inverter is feeds mains power back into the grid by syncing phase angle and phase (no dead shorts :) ) and applying slightly higher voltage. They are very efficient and really not within a college student experiment budget :pSo I was thinking... Rather than go from mechanical to DC to AC to grid - go from mechanical to AC to grid VIA an induction motor. As a proof of concept, use a DC motor + battery to turn an induction motor. Plugged into the grid, in theory, should apply current. Oh, but the phase you say? How do you prevent a dead short?"I've thought of this -- before applying mechanical power - have the grid bring the induction motor up to speed. Then try to turn faster (apply a torque) with the DC motor, for example. In theory, the amount of extra power put into the grid will be related to the slip angle of the motor - which will also control the speed of the input (so you can't go over speed by too much).Keep in mind that this whole battery business is just a proof of concept sort of thing - I'm not talking perpetual motion or any hohaa craziness. In the end, the final mechanical input will be around 200 watts. I expect this to be very low efficiency (likely 50%ish), 100W isn't an answer to the energy issues - but it's an experiment. It's also not going to come even close to driving the meter backwards, but it should run (as supplement) my laptop + two to three 13w CFL's :DI think the theory is feasible -- the inspiration comes from flywheel driven UPS systems. An induction motor is driven while mains power is on to keep a flywheel in motion. When the power goes out, the FW drives the motor and feeds to local grid.I'm thinking of using a "low" rpm induction motor.... If I recall, ceiling fans are 16 pole? So that's 60Hz2*2/16=450rpm... Add ceiling fan motor to the list of things to hunt for :) Looking at the one above my head, it looks like it even has a nice bolt pattern for some sort of pulley shenanigans :DCan someone either throw some ice water on me and slap me for being an idiot -- or let me know if I've found a boat to Valhalla.Oh, and my apologies for dancing around the "mechanical input" details.... There's a reason for this, I promise :) In any case, insight and information is appreciated :)
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
Hello guys. I have a Fujifilm MV-1 camera lying on my shelf. My grandma gave it to me, she probably also had no use for it. It eats 4 AA batteries, takes 1600*1200 JPGs and 320*240 video, has a tiny LCD and a flash. It has a 2-phase shutter release switch, so probably it does not have fixed focus. I have found something that looks like a memory card slot (about 4cm long) , and read something about 16MB built-in memory. ( ow ) Also, it feels cheap. So now I was thinking, what to do with it? Things I was thinking about: -converting it to an IR camera, but I don´t know whether I have a real use for IR images of such low quality. -using it to make time-lapses ( I don´t want to waste my D3100´s shutter for that ) - that would mean at least some modification to the electronics. -removing unneccessary components ( like the flash ) -some kind of a case-mod, because it is fugly right now. -some kind of power source mod, maybe add a cable adapter, or something like that Any ideas? No limits - all ideas welcome - from simple hacks to total conversions and anything. Thanks, guys UPDATE: I already took it apart, so a case mod is neccessary now. I´ve had some new ideas: -A body in the "classic film camera" style, but made from wood, with a better lens ( or possibly switchable lenses? ) and an additional cable release -A water and weather proof camera, tough construction, for shooting time lapses at any time ( probably also a better lens ) What do you guys say? ( I probably should have made this a discussion )
Question by rjbatc | last reply
This project is currently in the research stage. Having been reading the books 'Zero to Maker' by David Lang (OpenROV) and 'The Toaster Project' by Thomas Thwaites I have realised what I need is a project with a goal to take me out of the Arduino blinky light and solder kit zone, in to real making/hacking. Lang suggests an 'Unknown Project' which as I understand it is one that has been unexplored or under-explored, and he also suggests that using a popular forum to log, share and discus ideas would help the process along. So my idea, is an open hardware food creating machine, that will produce a large array of food, from a limited array of ingredients (approx 50) that can be made easily, and a ingredient markup language. 3d food printers in current development are either impractical or unappealing to me. They range from candy makers, ones that still need to be hand finished and cooked or the one publicised for receiving NASA funding recently used dead bugs. They seem all to focus on the gimmick, and not the food, and I like food. The other approach is the barbots, which seem to mostly perform flawlessly, but are unable to produce food. So my approach is to work through the process logically and break it down to sub projects. Design meals by hand using the limited ingredients for proof of concept, choose the ingredients to provide the widest possible range of nutrients and transpose the recipies to psudocode that can be easilly transformed in to a markup language later. Design a process for mixing and cooking ingredients. I envision a system of different food processors, steamers, boilers etc. and a range of extruding dies. Design a self cleaning system. Possibly ultrasonic or ionic. To that end, here is my preliminary list of ingredients. sugar, salt, oil, water, co2,Alcohol 37.5%,pectin,bicarb,nutritional yeast coffee,tea,mint,cocoa,garlic,oregano,chilli powder, paprika rice,soya,corn,wheat lemon extract,orange extract,tomato powder,dried apple,dried carrots,dried peas,potato powder. These ingredients can be used to make among other things, sausages, burgers, curry's, pasta, fries, soups, cereals, 'cider', cocktails, deserts, sodas, sauces, egg cheese and milk substitutes. So that's my plan. What do you guy think, and what ingredients would you add and why? And what would you call it? There are loads of things I left out as everything will change as I work through the process. Thanks for reading, Haydn
Topic by HaydnJones | last reply
I recently had the joy of needing a new screen protector for my mobile after being dumb enough to drop it on gravel. The hard cover took all the impact but the film protector on the screen was scratched badly. Was old and partially worn anyway so I decided to upgrade to a Tempered Glass screen protector. Being somewhere rural I had no chance to get one in a shop so I ordered online. With no intention of advertising for some sellers, I collected a few links so you can check what I am talking about: Item1 Item2 Item3 Item4 Item5 Item6 So, what is my concern with these? They all can be found on amazon and other online services as well as on local markets... As I said I ordered a glass screen protector. If you check these listings and even some of the packing you will notice they all have a thing in common - being shatter proof and of 9H hardness. I also love this video showing how to remove and fix a glass screen protector! The last time I checked glass had one very distinct feature: It is hard and before it really bends it breaks - unless you use fibre optics of fibre glass cloth... What is my concern and warning here? Pretty simple: Stay away from expensive scams! Some claim their screen protector is only 0.25mm thick, even the 0.2mm one I measured was over 0.5mm with the glue... The hardness of 9H refers to the so called Moh's hardness - look it up on Wikipedia if you like. That means these tempered glass protectors would have a similr hardness than a diamond, or at least close to it. Problem is that they are made from plastic to start with and not glass at all. They claims that the screen protector is flexible because it is so thin - again a fake! Even the thinnest tempered glass will shatter if you bend it enough, not so these plastic ones. If you think I am making all this up try to use a really sharp knife or deburring tool and cut the thin sides of one of these protectors. All the ones I tested could be cut quite easy - and I though glass can't be cut with a kinfe... A nice website showing that the scratch resistance is far from the claims can be found here. And a video showing how a real glass screen protector sounds and breaks can be found here. So is it really all bad and should I avoid getting one? Not really if it is only for the added protection. To be clear here, and without the intention to blame any of the above sellers, some protectors actually do have a top layer made from glass and you can hear it as in the above video - it sound solid and not like plastic if you tap it with something hard. Another factor is the simple fact that plastic absorbs impact much better than glass. So where a real glass screen protector might shatter and crack like in the above video, the fake ones might one get a nasty dint or scratch. But you should be aware and clear about what you get and what to expect from it. These glass imitations are made from a strong polycarbonate plastic, similar to the stuff used for bullet and explosion proof "glas" windows - if you every watched the Mythbusters you have seen the big sheets I mean. The top layer of these things is specially treated to repell water, oil and dirt, it also gives the surface the good scratch resistance. The technique is nothing new, camera lenses, plastic sheets and the clear covers you see over the timetable at your bus stop all use it. The new thing is to intentionally mislable a product to make the consumer think it is glass ;) What is the real difference for the user? Check this video. Here a guy performs a drop test with a real glass screen protector. Thing is once the protector breaks the screen itself is broken too but until then it was not too bad. Here it is demonstrated how a real glass screen protector reacts to certain types of abuse - one of the reason I decided on glass. Compared to the plastic counterfeits just the sound on the glass is worth it, but I think the hacksaw was best. Another video from XDA gives a bit more info on how the glass is made - if you can't seeing a phone being abused then don't watch the drop tests at the end ;) Glass with these hardness levels and types of surface protection will give the user a long and worry free use of the phone. The plastic fakes will perform at a similar level for some time but will show signs of wear long before even the top coat of the glass one fails. Both types have their uses and if the fakes would be labeled correctly the user would actually benefit from that. On bigger screens like a tablet I would actually prefer the plastic ones to prevent damage once it needs replacing. On a mobile used in less than perfect conditions I would also go for plastic as it usually is a bit thinner and will fit better within quality hard covers. But when it comes to real abuse like using with dirty fingers most of the time or mostly outdoors where a lot of dust and fine sand can be involved I always go for glass. If you paid attention to the surface treatment then you already realised that the plastic and the glass are in the same region, making them quite scratch resistant. Still fine sand or metal dust will scratch it.... The difference is in the hardness of the actual material that was covered with the oleophobic film. Glass will not give in any way, where plastic is much softer - so not to be confused with the surface hardness! This mean that sharp and point object will easier penetrate the plastic than the glass, something to be considered if you often ecounter harsh use. In terms of actual protection we need to differenciate between surface quality and actual screen damage. After all when badly scratched we can replace the protector but if the display got damaged we are back to square one. The surface hardness was already covered so let's move on to the screen itself. In some of the above videos you can see the abuse a screen might see in normal conditions, and if we would not drop our phones so often repair shops would not be at every corner LOL I have done quite a few screen repairs, mostly for friends and work mates that did not want to pay the hefty extras in a repair shop. From there I got the stories on how it happened and in almost all cases the screen cracked when the phone landed on the corners. In one case the screen and glass protector failed, including the actual display when the phone was dropped out of a 4WD and landed screen first onto a rock. A glass protector will spread the (direct onto the face) impact force onto a much larger area, where a plastic one will produce a dint onto the actual screen much sooner. So again glass wins in terms of actually protecting your expensive screen. But be aware that all this is useless if the phone lands on the corners!! Let me explain: Both the top glass on your screen and the screen protector have a thin layer of "glue". This acts like a shock absorber, so unless an impact goes deep enough so the pressure on the actual screen is too much only the protector should fail. But the screen itself is a tight fit into the frame of the phone, so all side and corner impacts go directly into the glass. As the rest of the glass has no way to give or go the stresses will crack the screen. How should I treat my phone with the new screen protector? Exactly the same way you would without it of course. But if you don't have a proper cover that offers protection of the corners you should invest in one. Having a quality protector and a good case does not mean your phone can be used as a football, see it as an added insurance in case something does go wrong. For obvious reason it can also pay off to have a spare at hand, if something bad happens that requires replacement of the protector you won't be left with an unprotected screen ;) Last but not least, double it up: For people that already know their screen will see a fair bit of abuse in term of scratches it is a good idea to put an extra film protector onto the glass one. Once it is too scratched you peel it off and replace it, while the glass protector gives you the actual protection for your screen. Corning Willow glass As time of wrinting Corning Willow glass is the only "flexible" glass on the market, unless stated with your flexible screen protector you can assume it will be just plastic. I did not list it above as this high tech material is mainly reserved for displays and at least to my knowledge is not available for screen protectors, although I will stand corrected as I have to assume some big players use it for their protectors. The material is actually a sandwich where an ultra thin sheet of glass stis bewteen two layers of durable coating, read it up on their website it is quite interesting. It won't reach the strength of their famous Gorilla glass so without an outer plastic that has the additional oleophobic coating it won't provide the strenght of real tempered glass protectors. Some phones like the Galaxy Round and the fleixble HTC phones use it for example.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply