Welcome to the Instructables Teachers Hub!

Welcome to the new home for all things Teacher related on Instructables. We hope you'll explore the new features and come back often to find and share projects, inspiration, and classroom resources. As you explore the new Teachers Hub, you'll see it's easy to find projects by subject or grade level and sort them to find all the best and freshest projects.Be sure to spend some time in the new Teacher Forum. It's a great place to connect with fellow teachers and make new friends! You could start by introducing yourself here or finding a topic that interests you and join the conversation there. :)We'll be working to continuously update and support your needs in this new area of the Instructables community, so thank you in advance for your valued feedback and suggestions.

Topic by WeTeachThemSTEM   |  last reply


Welcome to Instructables

On this page you can find links to some of our most frequently asked questions. What is this site? Instructables is a place that lets you explore, document, and share your creations. How do I post an Instructable? We offer a free and easy online class to coach you through posting your first Instructable or you can just wing it and start a new one today. How do I get help improving my Instructable?Ask the community for help in The Clinic. How does my Instructable get featured? The best way to get your projects featured is by following the Featuring Guidelines. Where can I learn more about contests? Our Contest FAQ has all of the information that you need to know about contests. What contests are launching soon? Check out our list of upcoming contests. Are you on social media? Yes! Follow us on Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter. How do I contact Instructables directly? The best way to contact us is through our Contact Page.

Topic by randofo   |  last reply


The Clinic // Get help with your Instructables!

Hello and welcome to the newest version of The Clinic! If you have an instructable that's not getting the attention you think it deserves, post it in the comments below for honest feedback and suggestions to improve it from fellow authors and Instructables staff. We want to help you create the best instructables you can! Curious about the basics of creating an instructable? Check out my FREE How to Write an Instructable Class! You can also read through our Featuring Checklist. Posting a great instructable has many benefits, including:More viewsMore comments and followersHaving your instructable Featured on the site Having your instructable featured on our social media accounts (Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest)Better chance to win contests Driving traffic to your websiteP.S. While I know the goal for any instructable is to get Featured, it's not the end goal here! We're sure to hand out features, but please keep in mind not every instructable is feature-worthy. Even the most popular authors have unfeatured instructables! Don't let it get you down - you're still amazing! :D

Topic by jessyratfink   |  last reply


Solar laser?

So recently I've collected a couple 32" fresnel lenses from rear projection tv's and am curious how one( if possible) would collimate the light into a laser beam to cut materials. I've spent a few hours searching the web trying to find the information I am seeking. Even help with searching terms would be appreciated.

Topic by IamEdgar   |  last reply


Tidy Cat Boxes/Container-What should I do

I was hoping to get some of the awesome minds working on a project of mine. I keep reusing my Tidy Cat buckets. I want to find a better, maybe modular furniture way of using them. Currently they are just storage, unfortunately, I haven't gotten really good at labeling so I just wind up opening one box after another. I've tossed around wine rack, some sort of yarn or craft holder, etc. I would like to paint them, which would be neat. The label is painted on and is not tape, so if I do use plastic paint, the words may still show thru. I haven't been able to buy the litter in a bag because I am not able to get the large bag of litter to work correctly with the automated litter box because it doesn't clump well. If you could look at the image and make some suggestions, it would be great.

Topic by silkensoytofu   |  last reply


Looking for help with a flash circuit

I'm looking for help designing a circuit that can slowly ramp up the brightness of a blue LED whilst charging a small flashbulb as you'd find in a disposable camera please. Once it peaks, flash, then stay from the beginning. I can also saw it being possible to run a stepped version where more than one LEDs are lit in sequence using capacitors, but I'm unsure I'm new to electronics and don't know enough to figure this out. Is this possible to do with only simple components (ie avoiding IC chips if possible) Thanks for any help! https://sarkariresult.onl/ mobdro https://pnrstatus.vip/

Topic by DmelloMarfi   |  last reply


Circuit Replacement for a Go Motorboard

I have an old Go Motorboard scooter that the circuit for charging the battery and managing the power to motors is burned out. I have a rudimentary understanding of circuits and how to build them. Can any one recommend a resources to learn how to build a circuit that can charge the batteries, then apply the power to the two motors activated from a throttle. https://scrabblewordfinder.vip/ https://www.applock.ooo/ https://www.7zip.vip/OR where to buy a replacement control board?

Topic by RoggerJones   |  last reply


Ultrasonic soldering bath

Making a working ultrasonic soldering iron is not as easy as I though it would be.Finding tanrsducer of suitable design and size is even harder.So I thought I start with something easier and share the thoughts here.If you need to solder impossible to solder things then quite often you could get away by wetting the entire area.For example the end of a wire or a lug where it won't matter that you can solder on the bottom as well as the top.Back in my days flux core solder was a rare and very expensive thing to find.So we had a little soldering pot and flux pot instead for working with lots of wires.Dip, dip, done....The pre-soldered wires where then easy to work with and the ramaining flux on then was enough.Doing this for metals like aluminium, stainless steel or even ceramics seems impossible at first sight.China offers cheap ultrasonic transducers including the required driver electronics for very littel money these days, despite the trade wars.The most obvious solution would then be to get a cheap and big enough soldering bath and to attach the transducer to it....Won't work though and if it does then not for long.Problem is firstly the heat transfered to the ceramic parts of the trandsucer and secondly the fact that most of these soldering baths use quite thick steel for the container.Add the that you deal with quite some grams of molten metal and you know where I am going.Building your own ultrasonic soldering bath to solder the impossible with ease!Project costs:40kHz transducer with driver board : about 50 bucks.Thin walled stainless steel bowl ( about 50 to 100ml but go bigger if you like) : about 2 bucks.Leftovers for an enclosure can be wood, plasic or your favourite 3D printer.Ultrasonic horn: About 500 bucks from your favourite engennering company or you need to make it yourself - I prefer the later.Main design considerations for the horn:We need something to keep the heat away from the transducer that also amplifies the power coming from it.That is why we can use a bowl or container that has a small bottom daimeter as the transducer if need be ;)There is a good reason a commercial horn costs a lot of money.They are preferably made from titanium and they need to perform as advertised right from the start.We substitude by using some aluminium round stock and a lathe.It is advisable to leave the transducer as it is!Do not take it apart to mount your horn directly onto the ceramics!Use a long enough set screw or include the required thread on your horn to mount it onto the transducer.If you prefer to use stainless steel doe to the lower heat conductivity then be my guest.The horn should have the same diameter as the mating part of the transducer for a quarter of the wavelength of the transducers frequency in the given material.Please look up how fast sound travels in your choosen material and calculate it properly.Having the lenght of the thick part right is quite cruicial.The thinner part that amplifies our movements should be about a quarter of the diameter of the transducer.For example: if the mating face of the tansducer is 40mm in diameter then the thin part of the horn should be 10mm.The length again is a quarter of the wavelength or the same as the thick part.Where thick meets thin please allow for a 3 to 5mm radius and make sure this area is nice and smothly finnished.Now, length is quite critical here....As we will mount our finnsihed actuator free hanging under the bath we need a feasable way to comapensate for our tolerances by creating our horn without a simulating software. I found that welding a short stub onto the container works best but with aluminum it is harder.I assume most will opt for welding a 6mm soft steel threaded rod onto the container.Either way the container surface must be kept flat for the mating surface of our actuator rod.So it is best to make the stud yourself or to use a suitable replacement - like using some flux and your stick welder for create a makeshift spot welder ;)If you decided on using steel for the horn then of course you can just mill a 10mm piece with a suitable thread and flat mating surface...What you want to end up with is a screw connection that has a flat mating surface and no empty spaces, fine thread prefered.Tuning the horn....The ensclosure is easy to make as a box, so the only thing to worry about is insulation but nothing to affect performance.So I just assume you have it all ready ;)With the horn at one quarter wavelength either end our thin end will be too long unless a short stud is used for a direct fit.So whatever you had to add for the part on your container or bowl need to be removed from he horns thin end.Try to keep the gad for the threaded part as small as possible as it affects the resonace.As things never turn out perfect the first try I prepare some thin steel washers - 100mm outer diameter in case you wonder and stick with the above example.I use a strong neodymium magnet and belt sander to create washers from very thin to slightly thinner ;)Taking off slightly more from the horns end will then allow toadd these washers if required - but please do a try as it is first when you think you got the measurements all right!For an aluminium horn you will of course use aluminium washers here.To do so fill the container with some water and place a sheet of thin alumiium foil on top of the water.Turn it on and within a few seconds you should see holes appearing in the fiol or even small fractures.If nothing but noise happens it is quite certain your rod will be a bit too long.Unscrew and take about one tenth of a mm off the thin end of the horns mating surface to shorten it.Try again with the foil and if no better remove some more material.Once you see some action try adding a layer of aluminium foil between the mating surfaces - screw it tight!The foil won't last long but if the action on the water is far better until it fails you know you took off too much.The washers come into place if the tuning won't work at all.Sometimes you can cut off a little bit again and again but the piece will remain too short ;)Especially if you have an aluminium horn and needed to use a steel screw on the bowl...So once the shortening of the horn fials you add a washer to get slightly above the original length and start replacing the differently thick washer until you find a sweet spot.The tricky part is over, now to solve the heating poblem...Using some glass seal as used on wood fire ovens not olnyl provides good insulation to our enclosure but also prevents the vibrations from spreading too far.As our hardware store won't just give use the little bit we need the rest can be used to insulate our container.Dending on the size and shape of your container I hope you decided to buy a container tha fits your heating element...I found that replacement coils for lab heaters work fine but some small fan heaters also use round heating elements instead if wire spirals.For a custom shape it is quite easy to use a coil of heatin wire rated for your mains voltage and a glass fibre sleeve for insulation.To keep it all in shape just wrap some steel wire over it - over the insulated coils of course.The temperature control can be as fancy as with a microcontroller or as simple as using a dimmer like I did.Most heating elements will go glowing red hot if the mains voltage is not reduced.It makes sense to limit the dimmer's movements accordingly by testing it.Just do it in the dark afeter exposing a small bit of the heating wire from the insulating sleeve.Once you see a faint glow coming dial it back a bit until you can see any glow - that should be the max setting.For a big bath or to save time you can of course crank it up to what the glass insulation can tolerate but be aware that solder can boil over!I do a temperature check either with a touch free IR thermometer of by checking how quickly some rosin boils off.If you need to dip bigger parts you need a higher temperature, so I think a digital or sensor temp control is not really required.Once you found a sweet spot to hold the solder temp long enough without getting too hot or cold just mark it for reference ;)Using the ultrasonic soldering bath correctly.Cavitation is what the work for us, so we only need to activate the ultrasonic part when we need it with a push button or food pedal switch.We do not use any flux or resin!That means if you used the bath for normal soldering and or resin then clean the remains off the surface first.A shiny and clean surface is best but the oxidisation will happen quickly so don't be too disappointed ;)Start by dipping in a clean copper wire.Some solder might stick but it won't look proper.Now dip it in again and while it is in push the button for about 3 seconds.Like magic, if tuned properly your wire is soldered and properly covered to where it was dripped in.Try the same with some slightly sanded or at least clean aluminium wire, but use the button right away for about 5 seconds.The wire should be coated with solder once more.You can try a glass rod or some stainless wire next but I guess the working principle is clear now ;)Not everything will bond with solder, especially not if it is not clean.A piece of glass with your fingerprint on it might just fail and some ceramics will only let the solder stick without actually bonding.You should always check the mechanical strength of your soldered connection before having to rely on it ;)And why would you need such a machine?Well, most people won't have any use for it.Those who do might not be able to afford a commercial model.And there is always those who just want it all...If you know why you need such a thing than you have an alternative now at a fraction of the cost.You only need a lathe or someone who can machine the horn for you.Another benefit is that for smaller containers it is possible to weld a small "bridge" over the top.Should be placed so the bottom is in the solder while top is above it.In many cases you will then be able to use this plate to heat up whatever you need to solder on.Like a glass plate where you would like to solder a wire to.Once up to temp turn the ultrasonic part on and use a normal soldering iron and flux flree solder.Works quite well for these small solar panel kits...Ok, and how far away is our cheap ultrasonic soldering iron?Not that far :)I already have a topic for this though....

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Technology Makes Cheap Drinking Water from Air

INTRODUCTION:   How can we best apply basic technology to help the underprivileged and/or disaster-hit countries like Haiti? Daily hygiene and nourishment are among the top needs for disaster ridden regions!  Simply put, no water means no hygiene. The Romans understood that over two millennia ago and created their complexly beautiful aqueduct networks for handling both fresh and wastewater! Other ingenious water systems like “air wells” have been found in the city of Theodosia (cf: discovered in 1900 by Zibold, see Zibold’s Collectors/Dehumidifiers) dating back to Greco-Roman times during the Byzantine Empire. These were strictly passive systems that naturally dehumidified air, collecting its potable water in underground basins. All air, even in relatively dry desert regions, will precipitate or release its natural water content (initially in the form of vapor) through condensation when it hits its dew-point temperature and below. That means you “chill” it to an appropriate level that is anywhere from 5F to 50F below its current air temperature, depending upon how much water content (relative humidity) it has locally absorbed. The condensation of the water vapor releases its internal latent heat (reheating the cooled air) which must be constantly dissipated (absorbed by something) in order for water formation to steadily continue. So how do we dissipate this resultant vapor-heat and chill our air without any infrastructure or electricity, in an underprivileged or disaster-ridden region? We simply bury a long cast-iron or any metallic drain-pipe sufficiently underground where the temperature of the earth is naturally held to a constant at around 45F to 55F. That’s our “free” chiller gift from nature. One end of the pipe, Figure-1,  sticks out of the ground to suck-in local outside hot air, and the other end dumps cooled dry air and water into an underground cistern where it gets collected and is piped to the surface to both exhaust the cooled dry air and connect to a water pump. We need a hand operated water pump to lift up the water above ground, and we need an electric fan to constantly pump air through the ground-chilled piping system. We can even force the cooled piped air to exhaust into a tent-like structure where it provides air conditioning as an added bonus, but this adds the penalty of both power and the increased fan size necessary to drive our required airflow further into an enclosure! While this concept is not “passive” (requiring electricity to work) like those clever Byzantine air-wells, it will produce much more potable water and within a smaller volume than those elegantly passive historic devices. The electricity for our fan power requirements can be produced by any one of four ways using either “active” or “passive” techniques: 1) An active playground or bike-pedaling-person or oxen-driven mechanism-generator, 2) A passive windmill generator, 3) A passive solar energy collection system that directly generates electricity, or 4) A passive thermo-electric system that directly generates electricity using the Peltier effect, operating solely on temperature differences between the cell’s top and bottom surface (we jury-rig the cool pipe and hot ambient air to contact separate sides of the cell). Depending upon how much water is needed, the required air volume plus pipe length and diameter, together with the fan will be sized accordingly. We can also configure groups of parallel fan-driven air pipes that are radially fed into the cistern. The sizing of this underground network depends upon the ambient air’s local average temperature and relative humidity (how much water gets absorbed into the air) plus buried pipe depth and effective underground temperatures achieved. The basic concept is one where we “wring” water from air at some given humidity content. The higher its relative humidity the more water is recovered from the air. The air-wringing process simply chills the air as it scrubs along the cooled internal pipe surface until it starts to rain inside the pipe from condensation onto its surface. The condensation is like the dew that forms on car windows, grass or any cooled surface in the early morning, before the sun comes out and evaporates the dew back into the heating air. A further bonus is that our dew-formed water is naturally distilled and very clean. It is potable water ready to drink without the need for additional sterilizing agents. Of course, we must make sure that the interior piping and cistern network is biologically cleansed before burying it underground. The hand pump with its 10 to 15 foot extended piping to reach the underground cistern must also be cleansed. The beauty of this constantly replenishable water supply is its convenient underground installation anywhere! After the in-ground installation, we have a virtual, partially passive, no moving parts, non-breakdown system containing above ground total access to all moving parts that could breakdown, namely the water pump and electric fan. Also, it is easily maintained, with few moving parts (water hand-pump and electric fan) and basically lacking any technical complexity which makes it ideal for technologically backward regions. The example below uses a relatively small industrial fan moving air at 1500 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) with a DC motor rated at 1kW. This fan together with our underground piping system will conservatively generate 12 GPH (Gallons Per Hour) of potable drinking water without need for any purification chemistry. Based on an average electrical cost of 14-cents per kWh (kilo-Watt hour), the typical commercial distillation of one gallon of drinking water costs roughly 35-cents as compared to our cost of only 1.2-cents. Furthermore, if we decide to go green and use solar energy for generating our water, it would effectively cost us nothing beyond the initial installation! USING A PSYCHROMETRIC CHART TO SIZE OUR WATER SUPPLY: The following gets a little technical and is only provided for those die-hards who are truly interested in how the science works. Those non-technically schooled may skip this part and not miss the basic concept. Figure-2 shows a Psychrometric Chart for air. This chart summarizes some of the basic thermodynamic properties of air throughout its typical range of operating temperature. The chart uses six basic air properties that defines the physical chemistry of water evaporation into air:  (1) the enthalpy or total energy contained within a unit of air which is a combination of its internal and external energy, expressed as the amount of BTU-energy per unit mass of reference dry-air, (2) the specific volume or the ratio of a unit volume of local air to its mass of reference dry-air, (3) the humidity ratio or the amount (mass) of moisture in a local unit of air divided by its reference mass of dry-air, (4) the percent relative humidity per unit of local air, or the mass ratio (expressed in percentage form) of the partial pressure of water vapor in the air-water mixture to the saturated vapor pressure of water at those conditions (the relative humidity depends not only on air temperature but also on the pressure of the system of interest),  (5) the dry-bulb temperature or the locally measured air temperature, and (6) the wet-bulb temperature or saturation temperature which is the local air temperature experienced during constant water evaporation (a wet-bulb thermometer is typically used:   a thermometer that measures resultant temperature while wrapped in a water wet-gauze and spun to generate local air movement and max-evaporation)  1.0   The Process and A Sample Calculation Our Psychrometric Chart uses six thermodynamic properties that help to determine the amount of water available for extraction from the local ambient air as a function of its temperature, pressure and relative humidity.  Let’s assume the following local ambient conditions for the region we plan to construct our water system at:  (1) Typical daily air temperature Td = 106F and one atmosphere pressure assumed at sea-level, (2) Relative Humidity, RH = 55%, and (3) Typical underground temperature down at six feet is measured at Tu=55F (at 12ft. it drops to ~45F). This yields the following calculated results for obtaining a steady-state supply (changes at night) of water to fill the cistern:      1)      In our example, the “local” air (dry-bulb) temperature is Td=106F, at a relative humidity of RH= 55%.  Fig-2 indicates that the resultant Humidity Ratio is HR= 0.0253 Lbs-water/Lb-Dry-Air (intersection of Td=106F line and RH=55% line, then horizontal to HR value).  We then determine the “gulp” of air volume containing the HR Lbs-water which corresponds to the point of intersection of Td and RH. Interpolating on specific volume “mv” yields mv=14.7 ft3/Lb-Dry-Air (this value sets the optimum unit airflow for our given ambient conditions, and creates a ballpark pipe length to diameter ratio needed later). It represents the basic unit of air volume that will enter our underground pipe per given time, and ultimately defines the size of our fan and piping network. For increased water creation, multiples of this unit volume will scale up the additional amounts of water that can be collected. 2)      As the inlet air cools down to a temperature of Tu=55F, from contact with the relatively cold underground pipe, we follow the constant enthalpy line (red upward left-diagonal) from the intersection of Td and RH to its saturated air temperature condition of Ts= ~88F, which is its dew-point temperature where the corresponding local RH=100%.  At this temperature or under, the air precipitates and releases its moisture content, resulting in water condensation onto the pipe walls.  Since our air will chill to a final pipe temperature of Tu=~55F, we follow the RH=100% saturated curve (green) down to yield an HR=~0.009 Lbs-water/Lb-Dry-Air. This is how much water is left in the air when it gets to 55F.  Therefore for every pound of local outside air that enters the pipe, mw=0.0253 – 0.009 = 0.0163 pounds of absolute pure, distilled potable water precipitates onto the inside pipe wall (per pound of dry air that is cooled and dehydrated) to gravity-flow out the pipe exit and into the cistern. 3)      We now convert pounds of air per unit time into a unitized volumetric airflow that yields gallons of hygienically pure potable water production per unit time. For every Va=100 ft3 of local volumetric air movement per minute (CFM) through the pipe, which translates into ma=Va/mv= 100/14.7 = 6.8 lbs. of dry air per minute or 6.8 * 60 = 408 lbs. per hour (PPH), to yield a water-flow of mwf=ma * mw = 408 * 0.0163 = 6.65 PPH or 6.65/8.345 = 0.8 GPH of water.  An industrial fan rated at 1kW DC will typically move 1500 CFM at a pressure of 8-iwc, to continuously produce 15 * 0.8 = 12 GPH of pristine potable water. 4)      Not shown here are the design details of sizing our pipe, fan and solar collection system for electric power requirements using heat transfer principles coupled with a thermodynamic heat balance, and aerodynamic fan performance assessment. These details help to size the electric power generation requirements plus margin used to properly size a solar collector containing further margins for overcast days. The engineering involved here is straight forward but beyond the scope of the current project.

Topic by RT-101   |  last reply


Italy not allowed to contests. Embarg?

Hi, I feel a bit disappointed about this... I used to partecipate in the past in a lot of contests in the past.I have a lot of coloured shirts at home, and a cool steel mug, won in some contests. It was nice partecipating. Is there an embarg now to Italy, as it seems we are not allowed anymore to enter contests?It was so cool, that's why I'm a bit sad.I found a few other thread, but unfortunately, I couldn't find an answer.Thanks.

Topic by prnet   |  last reply


List of Upcoming Contests (updated 9/10/19)

Hello everyone! Below is a partial list of the 2019 contest calendar. Keep in mind that this list is subject to change and contests will continue to be added throughout the year. The contests below are already in planning, and I've left off ones that we're still trying to decide on. The months indicate when the contests will be launching. All contests will launch near the beginning of each month. Keep in mind that the list below is not set in stone. All contests and dates are subject to change!AugustFlying ChallengeIf your project flies, we want to see itSpicy ChallengeFeeling hot, hot, hot... when it comes to these recipesClassroom Organization ChallengeShow us your favorite solutions to tame the craft and work supply madnessMetal ContestUse metal in your project - head banging optionalIndoor Lighting ContestWe love lampTeacher ContestTeach us your ways, oh educators!SeptemberMaps ChallengeMake cartography great againMake it Move ContestIf it moves, it's eligible!Kitchen Skills ChallengeShare your kitchen knowledgeCNC ContestBuild a project using a CNCArt Skills ChallengeDrawing, painting, sculpting, animation and moreSkateboarding ContestBuild a board, share tricks, wax every ledgeHalloween ContestCostumes, props, decorations, food and moreOctoberMultidiscipline ContestOpen to projects that combine two or more disciplines, like woodworking AND sewingAfter School ChallengeAfter school projects and activities Book Character Costume ChallengeLet your imagination run wild and bring your favorite book characters to lifeCandy ChallengeSugar and spice and everything niceMade with Math ContestCombine math with makingRobots ContestMake yourself a robotic friendNovemberMeal Prep ChallengeGet a gold star in being an adult and teach us how to meal prepFashion ContestIt's called fashion sweetie, look it upInvention ContestSolve everyday problems by creating something newAssistive Tech ContestUse technology to make life easierHome Decor ContestRefresh and restyle the DIY wayReuse ContestWork with what you've got instead of buying newDecemberPCB Badge ChallengeCreate custom PCB badges using EagleCrazy 4 Coding ChallengeShare fun coding projectsCookies ChallengeC is for cookie, and cookie is for meFiber Arts ChallengeThe challenge for all textile arts: weaving, crochet, embroidery, sewing, etc.Instrument ContestMake some noiseMad Science Fair ContestOpen to all science fair projects and experimentsShelving ContestGet creative with shelvingMake it Glow ContestAdd LEDs to all the things! *All contests and dates are subject to change. Please leave suggestions for prizes here. You can also leave suggestions about contests here. Have a contest question? Check the Contest FAQ!

Topic by randofo   |  last reply


Microsoft Photodraw - does anyone use it any more?

I have Photodraw 2000 on my computer from several years ago - I copied it onto my newer computer and I use it all the time to add text, borders or effects and to correct old photos or erase backgrounds.  I use my photos for various purposes, for teaching and family use, so it's good to be able to do lots of things with the photos in just one simple program I love Photodraw- it has so many uses and is easy to use. I never got the hang of using layers as in paint.net (which I've tried ) and Photoshop (which seems so expensive and complex). Does anyone else still use Photodraw or am I hanging on to a dinosaur here?

Topic by Puzzledd   |  last reply


How Instructables Hooked Me Up

Has posting a project on Instructables and being a member of our community helped you nail an interview / get your dream job / propose to your partner /  get an A on a school project / muster up the courage to ask someone out?? We want to hear your stories! Please share them below

Topic by kazmataz   |  last reply


Stupid Question: (soldering iron) = (woodburning iron)

I have a woodburner and I was wondering if I could use it as a soldering iron? Is it just getting hot enough to melt the solder that I have to worry about or is there some kind of load problem with using a woodburner for this purpose? need help!! (obviously)

Topic by bardon08   |  last reply


HHO generator with iron electrodes

Hello Everyone, I recently found out about Sodium Hydroxide as an electrolyte. I have read that it does not affect the electrodes like salt or baking soda and it does not create any weird gasses like chlorine. The main reason for using stainless steel electrodes is to prevent this corrosion, but since sodium hydroxide does not create this corrosion, can I just use the much cheaper iron or regular steel as the electrode plates? Thanks in advance  

Topic by JStuyfzand   |  last reply


Q: whats the cheapest way to strip the conductive film off bakelite (circuit boards)?

Hi, when i was apprentice 40 years ago we use bakelite a lot (before plastic etc became all the rage) - great stuff, nice to work with. when i dismantle old electronic gadgets i always keep the board, too. in some future applications, however, they need to be rendered non-conductive. we used acid to etch boards.... is there a very cheap and simple way to strip off the conductive layer - short of sanding it off, etc. cheers, and have a good one, but not too good either.

Topic by la xerra   |  last reply


Bee sting thearapy - a natural alternative to classic medication?

A lot of medications we use originally came directly from nature.Like chewing on some inner bark from a beech tree - it contains natural "asperin".And even potent medicine started by sourcing the natural stuff until we managed to created it all in the lab.Poisons from plants and animals are in many cases still the backbone of modern medicine - including opiates like morphine.It is then no real surprise that the long forgotten bee sting therapy makes a big comeback these days.Forgotten only in the mordern, western world - in Asia it was and still is part of the normal medical approach for many people.So what is it all about and how does it actually work?A little bee gives her life so you get treatment....And if we trust modern medicine from just under 10 years ago this is where the story would end.Thankfully we did not stop there once more and more people spread the word about the benefits of their treatment.Social media helped a lot here for once.Be it inflammatory deseases, nerve pain, arthritis and much more - you are certain to find people providing evidence that their condition improved noticable.In some case they even claim to be cured from their problems.What they all have in common though is that they all started like you and me: Fully of scepticism...With nothing to loose and no doctor giving you any real relief you might get desperate to try all sorts of weird things, so why not bees!?So far a bee sting therapist is just your normal bee keeper, but one with a passion for both the bees and your suffering.There is neither a need for doctor nor a need for a doctor to start as a bee keeper.Their knowledge of where to place the bee on you comes mostly from feedback and experience.Although a lot if quite obvious.Like when you have sever pain from arthitis in your elbow then that is the area were get stung and not in your leg ;)Sience is starting to take all this serious now and some studies try to figure out how and what actually is in the poison that helps better than any medicine and without any noteworthy side effects.I say notewroth because the obvious risk of a shock reaction is always there.But even you never got stung by a bee before and don't know if you are allergic: All bee sting therapists have an epi pen at hand for those unknown cases.Evidence shows the bee venom has good anti inflamatory properties, however what component is responsible for this is still largly unknown.Patient obvervations and tons of blood tests also revealed that the continued bee sting therapy attack the bodies systems in a very positive way.The immune system goes into to overdrive but what targets the poision or venom also targets and attacks a lot of related things that out of level or control otherwise.The body also produces endorphines and a generally stronger immune reaction to other things.Again, evidence is there, the lab proves it, but why and what exactly is still a huge mystery to science.And it flies anayway!You might know the old problem of aeronautic students when the task comes why or how a bumblebee is able to fly.Physics tell us the wings are too small, the body too fat and the overall weight just impossible.Sadly no bumblebee has even the slightest clue about physics or even earonatutical desgin, so it just flies off and does whatever a bumblebee needs to do these days....The story for the bee sting therapy is quite similar.We know it works for many things, we know it shouldn't and that it does it anyway.But does that mean you should try it out to end you pain or at least get some relief?Do be stung or not to be stung - that is the question...Unless you are allergic you have nothing to loose here once you think about it.So you, like so many before, might just start some internet search to find out more.And if it happens to be something other people already reported the treatment was beneficial your doubts might fade away and you dare to try it.Some of the stories you find are just a hype with things those who posted can never prove.So don't fall something exotic and expect that it will work for you just because you found a single article or posting saying so.Not because it might not work!Just because nothing is worse than getting your hopes and expectations up with nothing happening at all.Either way the cases of relief right away are few, in almost all cases it takes several rounds of therapy before the patient notices anything that couldn't come from simply hoping it works.Once it does though the effects are usually great.For mayn it is last ditch attempt but it does not have to be that way.Pain killers and other drugs might help you good enough and you wouldn't consider killing a bee for a test....Why not?Again: You have nothing to loose ;)Medication is good, nature is better!If ever switched from some expensive medicine to a generic brand than chance are you noticed they work differently or in some case not enough or with worse side effects.The same is true for the basic, natural product.We can, for example create the raspberry ketone in the lab and we know it the stuff giving us the nice raspberry smell.But the artificial produt has suprisingly little smell and even less taste than the original...Like all natural venoms, posion and toxins, bee stings give you a cocktail of ingredients.The artificial product only what was identified to be the most beneficial.Science has shown over and over again that a lot of these cocktails contain things that prevent the negative effects of the artificial counterpart.Does not mean though anyone ever bothered to include these in the recipe for the created meds..."What does not kill you makes you stronger!"We use this phrase for a lot of things but in terms of natural healing ways it is often more ture than for anything else.Bee keepers use protection but you won't find any who does not get stung on a more or less daily base.They don't bother with the little pain anymore and most might even tell you that apart from the initial sting they don't really feel it anymore.What is even more interesting is if you have a chat with them about the general health.It is hard to find any bee keeper that suffers regulary from a cold or flu, let alone infections.Back before we had things like penicilling or anesthetics we had much more people knowing what nature can offer to help us.Pharma companies are exploiding nature wherever they can to make money with "new" medicines and "discovieries".Bee keepers won't ;)They won't even charge you much, some are already happy if you buy a pot of honey or wax candles while being treated.But as said, it is neither a miracle, nor something anyone "must" try out!Never expect any, especially quick, benefit!You deserve to be sceptic and only get your hopes up once or better if you see a real benefit over time.Just have a look at your daily dose of medications and how much it helps you - including the side effects.If you say that enough is enough then do your own bit of research first.Try to find people with your condition that got help from bee sting therapy, at least their online presence or testimonials.In case all adds up good and positive you can cosider to try it yourself without expecting anything.And, well, if does help you too then fel free to spread the word...

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Transformers

Hi There! I have here a transformer from an old UPS (Belkin 550VA), I just wondering if I can use it as a battery charger, my problem is I cannot locate the PCB connected to it. Available information I have here are in one side there are 3 wires Blue, Brown & Red on the other side Black, Red, Brown, yellow, Blue. It is also labeled on the top 080-48172-00 GP 0751 Class B Viking B-2 E210832 Can someone help me with this little project? Thanks in advance! Jayce 

Topic by jayce_sos   |  last reply


Why is it so bad that the small bakeries disappear more and more...

Everyone loves a good bread roll, a nice and freshly baked bread...But where does it come from and what is really in it?When it comes to bread and bread rolls we tend to think all is fresh, especially when you see that your favourite supermarket has a bakery with a real oven.Our local baker that took over the business from his father not only sees a thread but also is unable to compete with the price.The consumer only too often selects by price only if look and taste seem to be good.A bread roll for under 20 cents, a whole bread for just over $2 and I am not talking toast here...So how is such a price possible or how can a "bakery" provide 30 or more different types of rolls and bread with just one or two small ovens and a tiny kitchen area?The trick on a small scale is to use ready to go mixes, just add yeast and water and you are set to go.On a big scale we talk about dough that is frozen, sometimes pre-baked but alsways already in the shape of the finnished product.Since there is just flour, salt and yeast in it what could the harm?Like with soft drinks and alcohol not all ingredients are legally required to be listed.Enzymes, antioxidants, modifiers and more.The claim is that ingredients that disappear during the baking need not mentioning at all.If we check how these helping substances are made we get everything from bacteria and fungi over chemical compositions that are lab created and even things that are totally engeneered.Why use nature if you can made the substance in a lab...Most countries have authorities that deal with just these things and their use.So as long as every single ingredient is legal and does not require to be listed it is fair game.The problem here is that no one really knows what goes into the dough for these ready to bake frozen products.As we know from our chemistry lessons in school even totally harmless components can combine to a harmful endproduct.Especially enzymes are used to to modify everything from DNA over meat products to modifying the appearence and shelf life of a product.For most if not all the secret ingredients used we are assured they are conform with the local law and food regulations but we will never know where they came from or how they could interact with each other.Every dentist will tell you that cheap, white (so called) bread is pretty much the worst for your teeth.The usual claim here is that it is too soft, might contain too much sugar but in general the carbohydrates convert to harmful sugars and food for bacteria.These bacteria then harm your teeth...This alone however has shown to be a bit of a misjudgement.If you take the official ingredients on their own then their harm on the teeth is basically non existing.It is again the enzymes and their remains that do the hard work by providing the base to convert a lot of contents directly to sugars through these bacteria.If we now go a step further and consider that bacteria do a pretty good in our body to keep a healthy balance and convert nutrients for us we have to wonder...A thing of our modern time is alleries, same for intolerance to certain foods.The sources for these are plentyful but apart from shielding ourselfs agains all bacteria, viruses and germs in general food is a common factor.Regions with limited or no access to processed foods or drinks show little to no signs of our common allergies or common helth conerns like heart disease or obesity.When it comes to our bread products it is obvious that we consume a lot of it and simply trust the claims on the pack.Rich in omega 3 added fibres, wholemeal...A real baker starting shortly after midnight to produce fresh products for his customer will just shake his head.There are many studies that show us the quality of certain foods, also a lot that show how fast food is bad for you.But when it comes to investigating the bread we eat every day we only find meaningless informations.The long term effect of some of the "secret" ingredients in bread are however well studied in animal tests.Digestive problems, failing to make use of certain basic amino acids, an affected central nervous system and even behaviour abnomalities have been observed.Of course we can't really compare a rat or pig on totally overdosed tests with what we eat on a daily base.But if certain enzymes and other ingredients in our frozen bread mixes and also dry mixes can do this then it is safe to asume that some sife effects from long term exposure will happen too.An enzyme that might just cause a less sticky dough might also affect meat.Another ingredient that should keep the dough firm enough for production machines could cause your stomach lining to produce far less liquids that help digestion.And other ingredients that might just try to produce a more uniform expansion of the dough might break down other food products in your intestines so the body can not convert them into as many other building blocks as before.Sure, we trust the claim that the baking will totall remove all traces of all the things that are not required to be listed.But lab test will show quite opposite, especially when it comes to soft, fluffy "bread" in sliced form.Bread is one of the basic food items everyone needs, so if being able to provide it at an "affordable" price is possible than not too many will actually check the product as a whole.Imagine you buy a premium looking steak and on the pack it states it was made with meat glue - another enzyme.You would not buy it...Thankfully most countries banned the use of meat glues after to many cases of related food poisoning happened.Should have been obvious that cut meat will have more bacteria and that gluing such pieces will result in bacteria to grow inside the meat at fast rates.So if you now wonder why such things are not fully regulated and checked ask yourself: why do you buy the cheap bread from your supermarket instead going to support your local baker?Money...Don't trust my words here!Grab a bread from your supermarket and some bread rolls, then do the same at a real bakery and compare the products.After that check for the best time and grab a few cold beer to have a nice chat about factory made bread products with the guy who kowns how to make it.You might be suprised what he will tell you ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


3D printed combination lock anyone?

I am in the finnishing stages for a fully 3D printed dial combination lock, similar to what would be used on a safe.Unlike what you might find in other places there is no metal parts.No crappy amount of possible combinations either, 72 per dial dial...I took me a few weeks and quite some filament to get from a draft in Sketchup to something that actually works as planned.As it was more a training excersize in Sketchup for me I had the the following goals:1. Everything is 3D printed with as little afterwork as possible.2. All required springs are 3D printed as well as all other moving or stationary parts.3. Where otherwise fasteners or screws would be required only short leftovers of filament are used to keep the parts in place.Only exception for security reason is the mounts for the front dial and holder.These should be glued or screwed in place if the actual intention is to use it as a working lock.4. The lock shall not be pickable by means of felling, hearing or just trying out random combinations.The above points I got sorted to my satisfaction.However I would like some feedback from trustworth beta testers on the general design and functionality.It is one thing to design something that just works but a bit harder to design it the best possible way.Another big drawback currently is that it seems to be impossible to export proper STL files in Sketchup once they reach a certain complexity.Automatic services or programs to fix these issues result in drastically increased file sizes.Some of the problematic part go from just under 200kb to over 10mb after "fixed".This is not acceptable for me and I have to work on fixing this issue.Most slicers correct these tiny errors automatically and produce a correct print but I prefer proper STL files of small size and complexity over inflated ones that I then need to double check for a long anyways.A few details need changing as my tests showed that you can't drive up print details to a certain level without risking to be unable to mount the parts without further sanding.I hope to have a full set of clean STL files ready for testing by the end of this month.If you are interested to try it out and maybe contribute to an improved version your time will be valued by being mentioned as a beta tester for the upcoming Instructable.Be warned though!This is not for the faint of heart and certainly not for someone who does not know how to calibrate all aspects of the 3D printer involved.The lock also uses quite a bit of filament, currently around 37m all up but I am working on reducing this by replacing solid parts with framework instead where possible.The assembly can be time consuming and frustrating if you realise only once finnished that you have certain parts in the wrong position or orientation.But as said, my goals were not really on making it as easy as possible LOLWhy desing a lock that is neither secure enough nor free of metal parts if there is other options ;)If you happen to work with an Inventor and PLA on the left side then I can provide ready to go .gx files if prefered.They would then be already confirmed to be working and usable on one of my printers.Let me know what you think ...

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


SAMSUNG LED TV INTO A DAYLIGHT PANEL FOR WINDOWLESS ROOM - How to power it?

Hi, I bought a brand new Samsung TV with a broken screen in an auction. I have removed the panel and all modules (not needed) but can anybody tell me how to power the LEDs with a 12v (?) power source in order to make a daylight panel for a windowless room. Picture shows the LED units.Thank you in anticipation.

Topic by TN1946   |  last reply


Show off your drawings!!!

Though there's no members at the moment I figured I'd go ahead and start a topic. In this one, just post pics or scans of some of your drawings. Here's three of mine:

Topic by LoneWolf   |  last reply


Steves build ideas

I have made a stage coach """&a wall clock made from using cardboard and coffee stirrers ""hope you like these

Topic by StephenF120   |  last reply


Help with Stranger Things costume lighting

I’m working on a costume of Stranger Things season 1 living room with a string of lights signaling letters of the alphabet. I’m looking for recommendations on a string of lights to purchase that can be programmed in a sequence by the bulb. Ideally, it would be best to have them old fashioned looking and battery powered. This costume is for a 10 year old. Any advice is appreciated.

Topic by Wrigleygeek   |  last reply


Making an air well

I was thinking about another fun project that draws water out of the air with just the sun's energy. I noticed the empty open vinegar bottle I washed and set to dry on my window sill accumulate more moisture every day. It was pooling water in the bottom after a week. The bottle shape is like a ball with a long spout. I read a little about air wells on the web, but they are very large structures. It would be fun to build a small one that would make a few glasses of water a day. Comments?Here's one link Air Wells & Dew Ponds

Topic by robbtoberfest   |  last reply


Design criteria for Ibles....

I just noticed that we have now standards that need to be followed if you want to publish an Instructable.Standards are good but not so much if the editing options for an Ible are at a standard from the year 2000.If I had fun designing something as simple as whistle that shall be created in a 3D printer: Then why would I need images showing how I designed it?Or why would I need images for the print settings or idea behind it?A community goes both ways!The editing tools are still sub standard and the images handling is a bad joke.If I need to explain something complex with the aid of images then of course I want the images in the right spot with the text - ever thought about this or visited website that offer similar after the year 2000?Usability is not just a means to provide the same look on all browsers and devices or to be able to use the most basic way to convert a website into a PDF.Usability is also for those who create it but that part seems to be lost for years now no matter how many times people ask, suggest or comment on the problem.I have no problem making my creations available elsewhere if that is the only way out here.If you want people to create proper Instructables then for crying out loud give them the means to do so!And fix the damn category selection bogus when posting in the community section.Has no use for years but why bother to fix it....Before you guys force people doing things your way only you should consider in what times we are and how proper usability would benefit this site....

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


10 Best Electronics Suppliers

First off, I would like to give notice to Electronics Projects for Dummies for most of this info.I wanted to make a site with many of the best sites to buy Electrical Parts, because it can sometimes be a strenuous activity. I have 10 here, because if you can't find something on one online store, you might be able to find it on the next.Reynolds ElectronicsReynolds Electronics is a good supplier of remote control components, micro controllers, and robot kits and parts. One feature that stands out on Reynolds Web site is the clear and helpful project/circuit tutorials. You can also find links for educational books on topics such as robotics and microcontrollers.Hobby EngineeringHobby Engineering is a sit slanted towards the hobbyist. This site carries some useful items that can be harder to find from other providers who are catered towards the corporate customer. it also has a good supply of micro-controllers, robot kits, parts, ad miscellaneous components and tools.All ElectronicsAll Electronics has an incredible selection of many of the useful items you would use to build your project. They are very inexpensive and it is easy to find your way around the site. This site also has a "consumer comments" section where the consumers get to talk about the quality of the product and more. (Thank you westfw)BG MicroBG Micro is a cool site for rare and pretty neat gadgets as well as a nice selection of alot of the items one will need for a weekend project. There is also a very nice search engine at the top which lets you search for an item you can't find on the left. (Thank you Las Vegas)Jameco ElectronicsJameco has a very nice site catalog. It's not very big that you sspect a forest was sacrificed in its making. I has great color photos with relatively easy to find components. This is one supplier wih a low price fuarantee which means that if you can show a part offered for less, the lesser price is honored. jameco also provides lower priced generic products as well as name brands.DigiKeyDigi-Key is a large distrbutor of components from various manufacturers, offering a very large catalog with lots and lots of choices. However, the site uses small print that might be hard to ead. The catalog includes line drawings but o part photos, but it does do an excellant job of labeling the parts. Overall, Digi-Key has a huge selection of products, but they might need a little looking to find them.loading...Mouser ElectronicsMouser ElectronicsAnother large distributor of components from various manufacturers is Mouser. I like how Mouser's site allows you to compile separate orders for different projects. You can come backa s many times as you like to complete your order and make your purchase. We also like how Mouser label parts because the labels are easy to read and provide alot of information about the specific part.Like Digi-Key, Mouser provides a very large catalog.RadioshackRadioshackEveryone knows Radioshack!. This electronics convenience store is pretty much like any food convenience store: CONVENIENT BUT EXPENSIVE. If you are stuck at 4:30 on a Sunday afteroon needing a small part to keep working on your project, this store is right for you. Be aware that not all radioshack are equal.Fry's ElectronicsFry's ElectronicsFry's has stores in nine states, and if you are lucky enough to live near one you can browse the isles in person. Fry's stocks all kinds of electronics and parts including an EXCELLANT selection of IC chips.Goldmine ElectronicsGoldmine ElectronicsIf you are in the market for bargains, try Electronic Goldmine.. This online store often offers sepcials that can save you money. Based in Scottsdale, Arizona, Electronics Goldmine offers great help with international orders and also offers wholesale items on auction on eBay.Quick Tip: Try clicking Electronic Goldmine Treasure Ball for the best deals!FuturlecFuturelec offers a very nicely done site with color photos of the parts that makes for easy browsin. Futurelec also offers semicnductor news links and also links to recently added parts to help you keep on the top of the latest and greatest as well as PCB design and manufacturing services.[htpp://maplin.co.uk Maplin]MaplinThe British suppplier Maplin has stores scattered around the U.K. and also offers an online store.Unlike electronic gadgets and appliances that operate on different voltages in European contries, electornic components are pretty standard. Although Maplin will ship overseas, you might want to check out U.S. Suppliers first.SparkfunSparkfun was originally a PCB Manufacturer, and turned in to a company well beyond their expectations! They have a large variety of PCBs, LEDs, and MANY more everyday electronics components. The site is well organized with so much to choose from!

Topic by Brennn10   |  last reply


Rate My Drawing!

This is a portrait I drew of a friend of mine. It took me about 2-3 hours to complete. Please tell me what you think, thank you :)

Topic by FoxyPenguin94   |  last reply


What kinds of contests do YOU want to see on Instructables?

Hi everyone! As we're planning contests for the next year, we wanted to get suggestions and feedback on the types of contests we're running. :DIs there a contest we ran years ago you'd like to see again? Any contests you're sick of? A weekly challenge you'd like us to expand on? Do you want the contests to be more specific or more open ended?We're trying to shake things up in contest-land - so any and all suggestions are welcome! I'm especially interested in what types of tech contests you guys would like to see, as well as ideas for food contests. P.S. For anyone wondering about weekly challenges - we're still trying to figure out a way to do it that makes it easy for you guys to enter and easy for the editors here to run. But I promise we are discussing it! :)Have prize suggestions? Check this topic. Want to get a preview of some of our upcoming contests?

Topic by randofo   |  last reply


Staedtler Marsmatic 700: Tehnical Drawing Pen Maintenance

Greetings peoples, Anyone had any luck reviving Staedtler Marsmatic 700 technical pens that were put away dirty and not used for a while. I just got my hands on a set of seven (retails for ~US$150) for $10, and have so far tried taking them apart completely and washing them in soapy water. So far I'm getting some gray, watery ink from the tight spaces I couldn't dry completely, but no or very little ink is flowing from the cartridge. Any ideas?

Topic by shooby   |  last reply


Soundproof Sleeping Closure

Hello fellow instructables :) Right I need some help and advice on a design brief to help fix my problem. Problem - I live in a ground floor flat and there is 1 flat above me, 2 scum bags occupy it, a couple of 22 year olds and they have obviously never been taught consideration for others and they bang and thrash around all through the early hours of the morning. When they bang on their bare wooden floor it sounds like a heavy metal dumbbell coming through my ceiling and it wakes me abruptly and its ruining my life :( I've complained to the council the past 18 months but there not interested. They have not put any carpet down in their flat in the last 18 months and it looks like they have no intention of doing so (they can afford fags n booze tho), plus they have a baby due any day now, great.. so now there making their problems, my problem. Solution - The only thing I can think of is making a soundproof sleeping closure, a large box like a 4 poster bed but all sides solid made out of a layer of MDF then insulation then more mdf, but I have some questions before I start. How would I get adequate air in and out ? Would this even stop the banging on my ceiling waking me up ? or would it still penetrate the box ? How would I control the temperature, would it be too hot in there ? Something like the image below but more solid with a door. If anyone has any experience with this or input or any good ideas I'd be ever so grateful. Cheers in advance. Matt

Topic by mattdiy   |  last reply


Can I use a thumbnail from an online thumbnail maker?

I would edit it and add pictures to it, but it is an online picturehttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1gpB_N-BhJvfdCD8iVSljgP6MKcqSfxVw/view?usp=sharing

Topic by Cheesey125   |  last reply


WATERING SYSTEM - INTRODUCTION

Bonjour, j'ai terminé le code du projet du système d'arrosage. Le logiciel m'indique une erreur que voici : " PWM.h : No Such file or directory" (ligne 23) Quelqu'un peux m'aider SVP merci.

Topic by J-LG 


Magnetic stirrer and springs....

Wanted to try how far the magnetic field of my new stirrer is reaching and observes something weird...If you have a normal stirring rod in a beaker then these things do excatly what they are supposed to.Even if you try to add the rodd to an empty beaker while the stirrer is already running.The first option gives you a nice rotation, the later often just some jumping and bouncing rod.Fun fact though: Inside a stirrer rotates a magnet and the rod is just a steel bar enclosed in polyethylen or teflon.Trying to make a stirring rod roll around the center instead of rotating is next to impossible - it always tries to use the max binding force and centers itself.So I tried different things for the end goal of designing a stand up stirring twoer instead.You know, like these fancy ones found in huge water towers to agitate the water.I found a small steel ball with two magnets attached quite interesting but an accident made me wonder...For some reason I did not turn the stirrer fully off when searching my little box of goodies for new stuff to try.A small spring for some motor bushes landed on the stirrer...And although it moved dead center it did not spin at all.A slight vibration was all I could see.First weird behaviur happen when I tried to move the spring around to check why it is not spinning.Pushing it a bit lengthwise suddenly made it spin!A bit of fiddling a trying showed it works best slightly off center to the magnet with one end while sitting on the radius.The spring rotated like a horizontal drill but in no relation to the stirring speed.Second and even weirder things happened when the spring slipped through my fingers.It started to roll around the center of the plate but in the opposite direction to the magnets rotattion!An increase in speed made it roll faster until the g forces made it fly off the plate.If you have a magnetic stirrer then try it out one day.I have a few theories why the spring starts to rotate or roll but none make fully sense.Can try to take a video for those with no stirrer but for the fun of it it might be good to just mount a magnet on a motor and try LOL

Topic by Downunder35m 


Soldering tips and tricks for complicated metals

Whether you are just a hobby builder or do your own electronics projects, you know how to solder...Then one day you find yourself in the position that your solder just does not want to stick...My first moment of total defeat happened when I was a teenager.Was building some simple motor with instructions from a book but substituted what I could...Ended up with some stainless steel contacts and being unable to solder my wires to them...If you ever had problems like this then read on ;)What are easy to solder metals?Basically everything that does not form an oxide layer on the surface and is able to bind with tin, lead or silver.Copper is one of the easiest metals to solder on but every plumber certainly knows how important a clean and corrosion free surface is.Any coating or alloy that prevents oxidisation or provides a harder surface usually means with normal, electornics solder we might be lost.Nickel for example can be a true pain and same for chrome.So lets start with the hard metals first.Steel, nickel, stainless...If the part size does not already mean trouble to get it hot enough, then we face the problem of how to "wet" it with our solder.Normal steel is usually fine if you give it a fine sanding right before the soldering, however getting the heat onto the part is crucial.Even something simple like a 5mm thick steel rod can be a pain with a normal soldering iron.I good way to cheat is to preheat the part or area with a blow torach on a soft flame - not a hot, blue flame.Try to do this away from the area you need to solder as the temperature difference usually causes some initial condensation on the surface.Most steels that play a vital role don't like to be overheated as it can affect the hardness an other things, so be careful here.Rosin core solder works fine on steel and it also indicates when the temperature gets too hot by boiling and smoking badly.If you still struggle to wet the surface try to scratch it with your solder - if it does not melt the surface is not hot enough.Nickel coatings are usually very thin and a slight sanding quickly reveals the layer underneath.If the metal used is not copper already then a copper layer will be electroplated on before the nickel coating.Either way the key is to get through the nickel without going through the copper, for example if steel contacts were used for durability reasons.After that soldering is as easy as directly onto copper.Steinless steel however can be a true pain, same by the way if you need to preserve the nickel coating as best as possible and can sand it off.Without using chemistry the only way I found is to use a stainless steel tip in the soldering iron.But as the preperation of one requires chemicals anyway we might start with them first.The passivating layer of layer or stainless steel can of course be pre-treated by sanding.Especially very shiny surface benefit from it.After this I prefer to wet the surface with Phosphoric Acid - you can find it in the harware store as "Rust remover".It is a food grade acid used in many of your favourite fizzy drinks, so skin contact is not a big deal - just wash it off.The phosphoric acid is not strong enough to break the oxide layer but it keeps air away.And once you start scratching the hot metal with your stainless steel soldering tip it will prevent a new oxide layer from forming.This method however requires a low temperature solder and quick work as the acid boils off quickly.In the plumbing section of your hardware store your find various fluxes for soldering.Look for something containing both Ammonium Chloride and Tink Chloride.Around here a common brand name is Bakers Fluid.Usually if it has a red danger label on it you will find the above ingredients on the lable somewhere.Be careful with it as it is very corrosive and harmful to your health!Good thing is that all remains can be washed off with just running water.What does it do though?Unlike the phosphoric acid, the chlrodies directly attack the metal.Especially once getting hot, so if in doubt wear proper protection as advised on the label!The oxide layer is not only being eaten away, there is also an ion exchange happening, so a product with more than 30% of zink chloride is prefered here.The zink binds with the stainless steel or nickel and provides an easier way to bond for the solder.Key is to work quickly and with precision!Flux paste is good for brazing but not so good for soldering.The flux liquid, unlike the paste will start to boil right when the metal get to soldering temperatures.That is if you use standard lead based solder, most lead free types should be ready a bit sooner.Start to scratch the metal with the solder and use a soft flame from the other side or close to the soldering area - do not apply the flame directly onto the flux covered area.Why? Well, the flux isolates the metal from the heat of the flame and it will boil off way before the metal gets hot enough ;)On smaller parts and when using the soldering iron create a small bubble of solder and keep scratching the surface while it heats up.In case the flux dries off apply a bit more before this happens!Once the solder starts to wet the metal a tiny bit it is usually very easy to spread it out to the desired size and shape.With the heat applied from the underside the solder will always flow to the area of most heat!Once done it is best to let the part cool down then to give it a good wash under running water to remove all remains of the flux.Failing to to do so will result in quick and ongoing corrosion, so do it properly...Aluminium, the bad metal...I encountered it first when I could not welding or brazing on a quite small part.Plus, of course, the problem of having to add a copper wire as well.Then again when I had to solder some aluminium wire.Acid won't work, chlorides only make it worse, so don't bother with either for aluminium.Standard rosin core solder also fails.But there is a suprisingly simple solution to the oxide problem on aluminium.Mechanical work...There are quite few videos out there showing how someone solders onto some aluminium foil.It is so simple because the foil is thin - use it to test your new skills.A thing though that is often done wrong is the surface preperation.It usually starts with a fine sanding - to remove the oxide layer.....The some oil is applied and soldering starts under the oil cover.And if pay attention then it is often a painful process of scratching with the soldering iron while trying to make the solder bubble wet the aluminium.That's why foil is so simple here....What happened in those videos?Quite simple: Aluminium oxidises right away while you sand it.Even if you are quick with the oil it already happened.So why not do the sanding after the oil was applied?A fibreglass pen or a stainless steel wire brush (usused on other things!) work quite well here.The oil prevents the air from attacking the aluminum.If in doubt use some clay and form a little dam around the soldering area to prevent the oil from running off.Petroleum jelly, vaseline and all other identical things work fine here same for clean engine oil.But you have to use rosin free solder, no flux core, just plain solder.If you don't have it simply melt some normal rosin core solder to a nice drop and clean the rosin off ;)Since there is no real oxide layer with this way of pre-treating the soldering and wetting happens right once the aluminium get hot enough to melt the solder.You might find it sticking nice right away but don't be fooled!You need to heat the aluminium until you actually see the solder forming a nice puddle.With careful sanding you create very clean boundaries.Other soldering tricks...Getting cholired based flux for a single job might be overkill.If you happen to have one of these tip cleaning stones for your soldering iron then you have what you need ;)Simply scrape some of it off and dissolve it is a tiny amount of water.Will only be ammonium chloride and requires more scratching on stainless steel but works...Preparing a stainless steel soldering tip sunds as easy as finding a suitable piece of wire and grindinga tip onto it.If you every changed the tip on a soldering iron them you know there is two types.The simple one for the cheaper irons uses a set screw or similar to hold the tip.The better ones are hold in place by a collar or other type of screw fitting.And well, those have a thicker part in their body.If you need to solder stainless steel more than once or twice it makes sense to buy a cheap but powerful soldering iron and to make sure it uses a straight piece of metal with no thicker parts to hold it in place.If you can't find some stainless steel wire or round bar of suitable thickness you can go slightly below or much thinner if you require a thin tip.Just make a copper or aluminium collar for the tip to hold it in place, like a sleeve to go around.Grind the tip to your desired shape before fitting it in....You won't need a mirror finnish and it can be helpful if the the surface is quite rough.After all, you want to scratch around on stainless steel with it and you can't harm it this way.To get a nice and clean cover of solder onto the tip you need the mentioned flux from above.Use a small cup and fill some of the flux in it so you can dip the tip of the soldering iron into it.If there is no temperature control start with a cold iron and the tip sanded off a last time right before dipping it into the flux.Use some clamps or whatever you feel like to help keeping the tip in place.If you get flux onto bits you don't want to cover with solder then wash off and try again.Turn the iron on observe the tip.As soon as you see tiny bubble forming take it out and quickly start rubbing your solder onto the tip.It helps to have a thick enough solder so you can apply some pressure here.And of course the solder should be nice and shiny and not covered by oxides...Special cases like titanium or othe metals that usually fail to bond with solder....Let's face it: whenever soldering is not feasable we are happy to revert back to crimping or screwing.Nothing wrong with it either and often the better option when it comes to being able to do a quick repair at a later stage.Most of thes special metals, including your favourite heating wire can still be solder using the right surface prep and flux but it really should be avoided if you can.And real bond like you get when soldering copper would only be on a surface level and mechanical strenght questionable.On a professional level ultrasonic soldering is used to make the impossible possible.The cavitation effect breaks through the surface oxides or passivating layers and the solder just wets the surface like it would be copper.On a hobby level things look different though.Unless you decide to build your own solar panels from scratch the investment into some low end ultrasonic soldering machine already set you back a few grand....There is a way to cheat on the cheap though if you are into experimenting and building things....More on that in my other topic about making an ultrasonic soldering tank. ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 


Contest Judges Needed

Hi everyone! We need to update our judge list with some new names!To be eligible to judge, you must have posted at least ONE instructable. Let us know which contest categories you're interested to judge in the comments below: CookingWorkshopCircuitsCraftLivingOutsideTeachersThe judging process is fairly simple and involves looking at contest finalists and rating them on a scale from 0-9. Judging is open Friday afternoon through Monday night. Time spent judging is around 30 minutes to two hours - it all depends on how thorough you are!If it’s not a good time for you to judge when we contact you, no worries. We always try to assign more judges than we need in case something comes up.You can find out more about the judging process here.Don't worry! Judges are selected after finalists are selected, so volunteering to judge will not affect your chances of being a finalist in any contest you enter.Thanks for helping us keep the site awesome!

Topic by jessyratfink   |  last reply


High School Teachers

Do you teach 9th-12th grade? If so, say hello and connect with other High School educators. Feel free to share where you are from, what grade level(s) and subjects you teach, and any exciting projects you did with your students this year or fun plans you have for your classes next year. :)

Topic by WeTeachThemSTEM   |  last reply


Shape of coil windings on a axial flux generator

I am making a axial flux wind turbine. I have watched many tuts on YT and researched alot on the net, but there is one thing that is confusing regarding the coil windings: Does the gap in the middle of the coil have to be the size of the magnet? many people do this and many don't, from a engineering perspective, which is better, my understanding is that it is best to make the gap as small as possible, that way you use up most of the magnetic flux. What is the best approach and why?

Topic by maaz1598   |  last reply


Is there an easy way to find a short or open circuit in a car?

I am trying to find a open or short circuit that is on a wire which is in a harness with other wires, on a 1986 Mazda B2000 truck. With so many of you having expertise in electronics, I thought here would be a good place to post my question. Does anyone have any suggestions how to find this open or short-circuit?I am open to the idea of getting a short-circuit-finder. Though I am not sure what features I should look for if I decide to get one. Does anyone have any suggestions?a) Does anyone know if these work well?b) What features should I look for If I get one?c) Do you have any other on a short circuit finder? type, manufacturer, model etcBelow is a link to a site that uses a short circuit finder to find a short circuit, and has information on using one: http://inliners.org/tech/tech6.htmlBelow is a link to a site that tells about how a tone generator is used to find a short circuit, in a home environment (I think this is how most short circuit finders work): http://askville.amazon.com/tone-gene...uestId=5912724I found some links that seem to show that it is possible to make a signal generator and tracer, but the pages with the schematics would not load. A list of tools with links to tools and their schematicshttp://www.qsl.net/kc4gzx/kc4gzx/project20.htmCircuit tracer (neither of these would not load 4-3-09 kept getting message "the Connection was reset."):should have schematic:http://circuitos.tripod.cl/schem/r111.gifand the signal generator:http://circuitos.tripod.cl/schem/r25.gifA little paranoid voice thinks this Instructable has some clues to the solution: How to prevent thefts steal your motorcycle for less than US$ 2 Thank-you in advance,

Topic by Jonque   |  last reply


Active Noise Cancellation for cars not equipped

I am playing with an idea. Higher end cars come with active noise cancellation systems to make the drive quieter and more enjoyable. However compact and subcompact class cars do not. With the noise canceling technology is available on every shelf for headphones, I am wondering if this could be hacked and repurposed to reduce road noise in a car. The system (Im presuming) would require one microphone, one noise canceling circuit board, and one speaker per wheel well. So it would require two pair of noise canceling headphones to accomplish. The idea is to improve the cabin noise quality in an off the shelf kind of way. Currently there are no aftermarket systems within the normal financial reach of most people. Only a hand full of aftermarket systems out there are available and priced @ 4K USD or more. If this works, it could be marketed at around 100 USD per unit. And provide a much nicer driving experience to the compact and subcompact cars.  By placing the microphones under the carpet and on the wheel wells metal surface the system should ignore the stereo, and correct road noise transmitted from the wheels to reduce cabin noise. Stereo interference is a common problem with cabin mounted microphones on OEM systems. So, your mission if you choose to accept it, is to devise a way to reduce road noise in a compact or subcompact car using off the shelf noise cancellation circuitry available to the average person. If your successful this should be a very easy way to upgrade most cars not equipped with such a system. Having a noise canceling system in a car reduces noise fatigue, and improves the driving experience for all of us.

Topic by ydeardorff   |  last reply


Import duty for Canada prizes

Morning,I have just received an invoice for $18 from FEDEX for customs clearance into Canada for the Instructables prize pack (mug and stickers). This is a first for me and was wondering if any other contest winners have similar feedback or if there was something that I should be doing with FEDEX.Cheers

Topic by mattaw   |  last reply


Anyone know how to make those trippy/psychedelic light shows?

You know those "acid shows" or "light shows" that were really popular in the sixties? (I think Joshua White was a pretty famous light show artist...) Anyone know how to make cool ones? I mean... it seems pretty simple, and I get the basic concept. Colored filters, swirls of colored oil... and water... and alcohol maybe, And a projector... but is there a "proper" way or something? Probably not... but anything you know on the sibject helps. Any ideas? Or... instructbales? Oh. P.S. An instructable on Underwater Light shows would be welcome too. Woah. I just had an awesome idea. But I'm keeping it to myself for now.

Topic by iamthemargerineman   |  last reply


May 2019 site changes: my observations and thoughts

In early May 2019, Instructables' website has been radically reworked with a revamp. Changes I have observed include:Navigation: Many categories and subcategories have been eliminated and instead reworked under other folders as part of the changes (there is no "Play" category and subcategories such as "NERF" and "Paper Airplanes" no longer exist) "Recent" filtering is not directly available to people browsing the site--you must sift through the categories and get through at least two pages to find a way to filter the selected category for "recent" (i.e. Homepage -> Circuits -> Projects -> (Page at which you may select "recent")) There are no filters for searches On the front page and in the categories' main pages, featured projects are emphasizedThe Forum/"Community": Without manually typing in the URL, there is no direct way to access the "community" page Buttons to access the forum among in the category pages are tied to the community pages for that category (as a result. They do not allow you to see the general forum posts of the community without viewers manually deleting the category from the URL and going from thereThe way people navigate about sites controls what they can see and how they see if, so all of these things will change the flow and behavior of Instructables' viewers versus how it was before. Versus before, it is more cumbersome for viewers to get to recent content while featured content is more readily available. This will influence where people go and what they see.----------------------------------What do I believe this means for the future?Drawing on my decade of experience on this site, I suspect viewership of non-featured Instructables will drop. Thus, the viewership gap--between those projects that have been featured and those that have not--will then widen.Of these changes I think people will say you either "get featured or get buried."

Topic by OrigamiAirEnforcer   |  last reply


Mixing different colored LEDs in series-parallel arrays

I've been doing lots of research, both on other internet sites and the LED projects posted here, but can't find out how to mix colours in LED displays. My plan is to build better Christmas displays from LEDs than the rope light ones you can buy. I've found out how to drive LEDs from a power supply both in series and parallel, with a current limiting resistor. What no one seems to discuss though is driving sets of LEDs off the one power supply where they use different coloured LEDs of different voltages. If I want to wire up lots of red LEDs (2.0V drop) in series and some green LEDs (3.3V drop) in series for example, can I just wire the two sets in parallel to each other (assuming both sets of LEDs in series don't require more voltage than the power supply? Thanks!!!

Topic by FutureCow   |  last reply


Pls help me with my code

I want to make home automation project using arduino. I want to control multiple led, password protected door and temperature showing. I have 3 code for these 3 feature. But I want to combine them together to control it from 1 android device. i just want to make work like that- if i press "Q" command then it will show temperature. if i press "R" command then it will work like multiple led controller. if i press "S" command then it will work like password protected locker.This is the code for bluetooth led control:-int relay1 = A0; int relay2 = A1; int relay3 = A2; int relay4 = A3; String readString; void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); pinMode(relay1, OUTPUT); pinMode(relay2, OUTPUT); pinMode(relay3, OUTPUT); pinMode(relay4, OUTPUT); } void loop() { while (Serial.available()) { delay(3); char c = Serial.read(); readString += c; } if (readString.length() >0) { if (readString == "A") { digitalWrite(relay1, HIGH); Serial.print("Relay 1 is On"); } if (readString == "W") { digitalWrite(relay1, LOW); Serial.print("Relay 1 is Off"); } //relay2 if (readString == "B") { digitalWrite(relay2, HIGH); Serial.print("Relay 2 is On"); } if (readString == "X") { digitalWrite(relay2, LOW); Serial.print("Relay 2 is Off"); } //relay3 if (readString == "C") { digitalWrite(relay3, HIGH); Serial.print("Relay 3 is On"); } if (readString == "Y") { digitalWrite(relay3, LOW); Serial.print("Relay 3 is Off"); } //relay4 if (readString == "D") { digitalWrite(relay4, HIGH); Serial.print("Relay 4 is On"); } if (readString == "Z") { digitalWrite(relay4, LOW); Serial.print("Relay 4 is Off"); } //All on / off if (readString == "E") { digitalWrite(relay1, HIGH); digitalWrite(relay2, HIGH); digitalWrite(relay3, HIGH); digitalWrite(relay4, HIGH); Serial.print("All Relay Is On"); } if (readString == "F") { digitalWrite(relay1, LOW); digitalWrite(relay2, LOW); digitalWrite(relay3, LOW); digitalWrite(relay4, LOW); Serial.print("All Relay Is Off"); } //next readString=""; } } This is the code for password control door:String inputString = ""; String command = ""; String value = ""; String password = "test123"; //setpassword here boolean stringComplete = false; int relay = 2; int greenLed = 5; int redLed = 6; void setup(){ Serial.begin(9600); // make sure it is the same baudrate as your bluetooth module inputString.reserve(50); command.reserve(50); value.reserve(50); boolean stringOK = false; pinMode(relay, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(relay, HIGH); pinMode(greenLed, OUTPUT); pinMode(redLed, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(redLed, HIGH); } void loop(){ if (stringComplete) { delay(100); int pos = inputString.indexOf('='); if (pos > -1) { command = inputString.substring(0, pos); value = inputString.substring(pos+1, inputString.length()-1); // extract command up to \n exluded if(!password.compareTo(value) && (command == "OPEN")){ openDoor(); Serial.println(" OPEN"); delay(100); } else if(!password.compareTo(value) && (command == "CLOSE")){ closeDoor(); Serial.println(" CLOSE"); delay(100); } else if(password.compareTo(value)){ Serial.println(" WRONG"); delay(100); } } inputString = ""; stringComplete = false; } } void serialEvent() { while (Serial.available()) { char inChar = (char)Serial.read(); //Serial.write(inChar); inputString += inChar; if (inChar == '\n' || inChar == '\r') { stringComplete = true; } } } void openDoor(){ digitalWrite(relay, LOW); digitalWrite(redLed, LOW); digitalWrite(greenLed, HIGH); } void closeDoor(){ digitalWrite(relay, HIGH); digitalWrite(redLed, HIGH); digitalWrite(greenLed, LOW); }This is the code for temperature showing:int data_pin = 9; int vcc_pin=8; int gnd_pin=10; boolean result[41]; //holds the result int interval=2000; //Sample every 2 seconds unsigned int temp; //in celcius unsigned int humidity; //in %RH void setup() { //Supply power to DHT11 (Uses upto 2.5mA) pinMode(gnd_pin, OUTPUT); pinMode(vcc_pin, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(gnd_pin,LOW); digitalWrite(vcc_pin,HIGH); //Initiate Serial for Bluetooth Communication Serial.begin(9600); } void loop() { //Pause before taking next measurement delay(interval); //Trigger reading by holding data pin low for 18ms pinMode(data_pin, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(data_pin,LOW); delay(18); digitalWrite(data_pin,HIGH); pinMode(data_pin, INPUT_PULLUP); //read 41 bits of signal for(int i=0;i<=40;i++){ result[i]=(pulseIn(data_pin, HIGH)>40); } //Extract Humidity (from byte 1) humidity=0; for (int i=1;i<=8;i++){ humidity=humidity<<1; if (result[i]) humidity|=1; } //Extract Temperature (from Byte 3) temp=0; for (int i=17;i<=24;i++){ temp=temp<<1; if (result[i]) temp|=1; } //Send data over Bluetooth Serial.print("*T"+String(temp)+"*"); Serial.print("*H"+String(humidity)+"*"); }This is the code i tried to combine all together.i just want to make work like that- if i press "Q" command then it will show temperature. if i press "R" command then it will work like multiple led controller. if i press "S" command then it will work like password protected locker.I tried `if(readString == "Q")` , `if(readString == "R")` , `if(readString == "S")` for control the code seperately but its not working:int data_pin = 9; int vcc_pin=8; int gnd_pin=10; int relay1 = A0; int relay2 = A1; int relay3 = A2; int relay4 = A3; int relay = 2; int greenLed = 5; int redLed = 6; boolean result[41]; //holds the result int interval=2000; //Sample every 2 seconds unsigned int temp; //in celcius unsigned int humidity; //in %RH String inputString = ""; String command = ""; String value = ""; String password = "test123"; //setpassword here boolean stringComplete = false; String readString; void setup() { //Supply power to DHT11 (Uses upto 2.5mA) pinMode(gnd_pin, OUTPUT); pinMode(vcc_pin, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(gnd_pin,LOW); digitalWrite(vcc_pin,HIGH); pinMode(relay1, OUTPUT); pinMode(relay2, OUTPUT); pinMode(relay3, OUTPUT); pinMode(relay4, OUTPUT); pinMode(relay, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(relay, HIGH); pinMode(greenLed, OUTPUT); pinMode(redLed, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(redLed, HIGH); inputString.reserve(50); command.reserve(50); value.reserve(50); boolean stringOK = false; //Initiate Serial for Bluetooth Communication Serial.begin(9600); } void loop(){ if (readString == "Q"){ //Pause before taking next measurement delay(interval); //Trigger reading by holding data pin low for 18ms pinMode(data_pin, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(data_pin,LOW); delay(18); digitalWrite(data_pin,HIGH); pinMode(data_pin, INPUT_PULLUP); //read 41 bits of signal for(int i=0;i<=40;i++){ result[i]=(pulseIn(data_pin, HIGH)>40); } //Extract Humidity (from byte 1) humidity=0; for (int i=1;i<=8;i++){ humidity=humidity<<1; if (result[i]) humidity|=1; } //Extract Temperature (from Byte 3) temp=0; for (int i=17;i<=24;i++){ temp=temp<<1; if (result[i]) temp|=1; } //Send data over Bluetooth Serial.print("*T"+String(temp)+"*"); Serial.print("*H"+String(humidity)+"*"); } if (readString == "R"){ while (Serial.available()) { delay(3); char c = Serial.read(); readString += c; } if (readString.length() >0) { if (readString == "A") { digitalWrite(relay1, HIGH); Serial.print("Relay 1 is On"); } if (readString == "W") { digitalWrite(relay1, LOW); Serial.print("Relay 1 is Off"); } //relay2 if (readString == "B") { digitalWrite(relay2, HIGH); Serial.print("Relay 2 is On"); } if (readString == "X") { digitalWrite(relay2, LOW); Serial.print("Relay 2 is Off"); } //relay3 if (readString == "C") { digitalWrite(relay3, HIGH); Serial.print("Relay 3 is On"); } if (readString == "Y") { digitalWrite(relay3, LOW); Serial.print("Relay 3 is Off"); } //relay4 if (readString == "D") { digitalWrite(relay4, HIGH); Serial.print("Relay 4 is On"); } if (readString == "Z") { digitalWrite(relay4, LOW); Serial.print("Relay 4 is Off"); } //All on / off if (readString == "E") { digitalWrite(relay1, HIGH); digitalWrite(relay2, HIGH); digitalWrite(relay3, HIGH); digitalWrite(relay4, HIGH); Serial.print("All Relay Is On"); } if (readString == "F") { digitalWrite(relay1, LOW); digitalWrite(relay2, LOW); digitalWrite(relay3, LOW); digitalWrite(relay4, LOW); Serial.print("All Relay Is Off"); } //next readString=""; } } if (readString == "S"){ if (stringComplete) { delay(100); int pos = inputString.indexOf('='); if (pos > -1) { command = inputString.substring(0, pos); value = inputString.substring(pos+1, inputString.length()-1); // extract command up to \n exluded if(!password.compareTo(value) && (command == "OPEN")){ openDoor(); Serial.println(" OPEN"); delay(100); } else if(!password.compareTo(value) && (command == "CLOSE")){ closeDoor(); Serial.println(" CLOSE"); delay(100); } else if(password.compareTo(value)){ Serial.println(" WRONG"); delay(100); } } inputString = ""; stringComplete = false; } } } void serialEvent() { while (Serial.available()) { char inChar = (char)Serial.read(); //Serial.write(inChar); inputString += inChar; if (inChar == '\n' || inChar == '\r') { stringComplete = true; } } } void openDoor(){ digitalWrite(relay, LOW); digitalWrite(redLed, LOW); digitalWrite(greenLed, HIGH); } void closeDoor(){ digitalWrite(relay, HIGH); digitalWrite(redLed, HIGH); digitalWrite(greenLed, LOW); }

Topic by Shoyeb MohammedS 


HELP FOR IDEAS!!!

I would like to see a category "how to make things that I would use".e.g. A glove that would help control tremors? I could probably do this but at 75+ years, I gust shake to much.Did you know that if I pick up a cup of coffee without looking at it, I never spill a drop. neido.castel@gmail.com

Topic by NEIDO   |  last reply


BREATH UNDER WATER WITH HOME MADE OBJECTS :O

Does any one know of a way to breath under water using objects from home I don't mean like a snorkal but a full fledged under water breathing apparatus

Topic by Ervineng   |  last reply


Penny model paper planes

In years past I had some printable model paper airplanes that looked like real planes, were aerodynamically shaped, had a penny in the nose for weight, and glided quite well. I have lost the folder in moving classrooms, and I can't seem to find them using google. Has anyone ever heard of these, and have a possible source? My favorite one was an older MIG.

Topic by pleasedontspamme 


Overheating Car - Causes and Short - Term Solutions

Overheating of the engine not only occurs in the summer, but can also occur in daily driving. In particularly, high-speed running cars, engines, and air-conditioning systems can cause boiling phenomenon when the water temperature is too high. It's dangerous to overheat the engine. It may hard luck that what can damage the engine. When driving on highways at a higher speed, or when climbing a car, if the pointer of the water temperature gauge enters the red zone and stays high, appropriate measures should be taken at this time. Here's how to handle the engine overheating.There are many causes of overheating, including insufficient coolant, cooling fan cooling the coolant has failed, thermostat failure, and coolant temperature sensor failure. If you deal with it improperly, it can lead to an expensive engine failure. Therefore, timely detection and proper disposal of overheating can effectively reduce losses.First, poor engine cooling: Poor engine cooling can cause the water temperature in the tank to be too high. When longer the water tank is used, the more internal scale will build up, resulting in poor heat dissipation in the radiator. The water with too high temperature will not release heat, and it will evolve into a "pan". In addition, the ventilation hole of the radiator is also a common cause of poor heat dissipation. If the external blockage is not ventilated, use a water gun to clean it up. If the inside of the radiator is blocked, then clean it with a cleaning solution. Second, the cooling system is not working properly, resulting in poor heat dissipation. At this time, check the tightness of the fan belt and whether the fan blades are deformed or broken.Third, the thermostat automatically adjusts the amount of water entering in to the radiator according to the temperature of the cooling water, so as to ensure that the engine works within a suitable temperature range, which can play a role in saving energy consumption. If the engine is overheated, check that the thermostat is working properly. Starts at 70°C and fully open at 83°C. When the height of the fully opened valve is not less than 9 mm, the thermostat can be put into the water for heating inspection. If the thermostat can't be opened or the opening degree is not enough, the thermostat needs to be replaced.

Topic by violantez   |  last reply


Quirky tip on how to propagate roses?

Recently I found this little quirky tip on how to propagate roses/ bushes and I was wondering if it was true? In the little tidbit, they tell you to use a cutting of a rose of course and then put a little cinnamon on one of the ends that you intend to grow roots. Then poke that end in to a potato. Then bury that part with the potato into the ground. After I guess eventually you get a new rose bush. I was wondering can this actually work? Or is this just bait to get you to read more of their articles?

Topic by Treasure Tabby   |  last reply