Welcome to Instructables

On this page you can find links to some of our most frequently asked questions. What is this site? Instructables is a place that lets you explore, document, and share your creations. How do I post an Instructable? We offer a free and easy online class to coach you through posting your first Instructable or you can just wing it and start a new one today. How do I get help improving my Instructable?Ask the community for help in The Clinic. How does my Instructable get featured? The best way to get your projects featured is by following the Featuring Guidelines. Where can I learn more about contests? Our Contest FAQ has all of the information that you need to know about contests. What contests are launching soon? Check out our list of upcoming contests. Are you on social media? Yes! Follow us on Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter. How do I contact Instructables directly? The best way to contact us is through our Contact Page.

Topic by randofo   |  last reply


Welcome to the Instructables Teachers Hub!

Welcome to the new home for all things Teacher related on Instructables. We hope you'll explore the new features and come back often to find and share projects, inspiration, and classroom resources. As you explore the new Teachers Hub, you'll see it's easy to find projects by subject or grade level and sort them to find all the best and freshest projects.Be sure to spend some time in the new Teacher Forum. It's a great place to connect with fellow teachers and make new friends! You could start by introducing yourself here or finding a topic that interests you and join the conversation there. :)We'll be working to continuously update and support your needs in this new area of the Instructables community, so thank you in advance for your valued feedback and suggestions.

Topic by WeTeachThemSTEM   |  last reply


Terrible tragedy. Grant Thompson has passed away.

I don't know how to post this, but maker extraordinaire, Grant Thompson, The King of Random, has passed away from a paragliding accident.I, personally, have learned so much from his wealth of knowledge over the years. A friend showed me a video of his 5 years ago and for years, I remember waiting anxiously for him to post a new video.One of the first people and possibly the most influential people in the online maker community, all around the world. Thank you Grant. Terrible tragedy.RIP.

Topic by Yonatan24   |  last reply


Working Wind-Up

I'd like to build a manually operated wind up key( the kind where the key turns slowly) for my costume. One problem; I don't understand the mechanism too well. If you could break down how it works as well as the parts that I would need to create such a device would be greatly appreciated.(P.S. I'm pretty new to this so if you could take that into consideration that would be great too).

Topic by LuckyLanna 


anybody using on demand hydrogen to heat hot water?

Hello all - I am interested in either converting an existing gas-fired hot water heater to burn homemade hydrogen gas, or building an on demand heater powered by same. Is anybody doing this? What are the issues, beyond safety of making your own highly flammable gas? lol... I am thinking jet/hole size on the gas burner ring for efficiency considerations, corrosion issues, etc..... THanks in advance... Matt

Topic by concreteblue   |  last reply


Vacuum tube amp help

I just bought a lot of 125 vacuum tubes on ebay for 30 dollars including shipping (the seller didn't list what tubes were there, just said a crate) I got the following (if the same name is listed 2 times in a row, then I got 2): 10JA8 12AD6 12AE6 12AF6 12AU6 12AX4GTA 12BD6 12BE6 12BG6 12C5 12CN5 12CU6 12J8 12K7GT 12RS 12X4 17AX4GT 17BR3 18FW6 18FX6 18FY6 1B3GT 1G3GT 1G3GT 1S4 1S4 1S5 1T4 1U5 1U5 1X2B 21LR8 2BN4 2BN4A 2CW4 2CY5 32ET5 3S4 3S4 3V4 4BQ7A 4BZ6 4BZ7 4BZ7 50B5 5AT8 5AT8 5AT8 5AT8 5BR8 5T8 5T8 5T8 5T8 5U8 5U8 5U8 5U8 654A 6AB4 6AF4A 6AG5 6AG5 6AL5 6AL5 6AM8 6AQ5 6AQ5A 6AS8 6AT6A 6AU6A 6AU6A 6AU6A 6AV6 6AV6 6AX4GTB 6BA6 6BA6 6BA6 6BA6 6BA6 6BE6 6BE6 6BJ6 6BK7B 6BN4A 6BN4A 6BN6 6BQ7A 6BQ7A 6BQ7A 6BQ7A 6BQ7A 6BU8 6BZ7 6BZ7 6BZ7 6BZT 6CB6 6CB6A 6CF6 6CG8A 6CN7 6CY5 6CY7 6CY7 6CY7 6DQ6A 6DQ6B 6EA8 6FM7 6GN8 6H6GT 6J6A 6J6A 6J6A 6S4A 6SA7 6SJ7 6SK7GT 6U8 6U8A 8FQ7 9A8 I'm thinking about making a small amp (below 5 watts) for my ipod, which one of these would be best?

Topic by guyfrom7up   |  last reply


Featured Author: The King of Random

Check out our most recent featured author interview with The King of Random!  Got a question I didn't ask?  Ask it here!

Topic by Danger is my middle name   |  last reply


Tempered glass screen protectors - understand and beware!

I recently had the joy of needing a new screen protector for my mobile after being dumb enough to drop it on gravel. The hard cover took all the impact but the film protector on the screen was scratched badly. Was old and partially worn anyway so I decided to upgrade to a Tempered Glass screen protector. Being somewhere rural I had no chance to get one in a shop so I ordered online. With no intention of advertising for some sellers, I collected a few links so you can check what I am talking about: Item1 Item2 Item3 Item4 Item5 Item6 So, what is my concern with these? They all can be found on amazon and other online services as well as on local markets... As I said I ordered a glass screen protector. If you check these listings and even some of the packing you will notice they all have a thing in common - being shatter proof and of 9H hardness. I also love this video showing how to remove and fix a glass screen protector! The last time I checked glass had one very distinct feature: It is hard and before it really bends it breaks - unless you use fibre optics of fibre glass cloth... What is my concern and warning here? Pretty simple: Stay away from expensive scams! Some claim their screen protector is only 0.25mm thick, even the 0.2mm one I measured was over 0.5mm with the glue... The hardness of 9H refers to the so called Moh's hardness - look it up on Wikipedia if you like. That means these tempered glass protectors would have a similr hardness than a diamond, or at least close to it. Problem is that they are made from plastic to start with and not glass at all. They claims that the screen protector is flexible because it is so thin - again a fake! Even the thinnest tempered glass will shatter if you bend it enough, not so these plastic ones. If you think I am making all this up try to use a really sharp knife or deburring tool and cut the thin sides of one of these protectors. All the ones I tested could be cut quite easy - and I though glass can't be cut with a kinfe... A nice website showing that the scratch resistance is far from the claims can be found here. And a video showing how a real glass screen protector sounds and breaks can be found here. So is it really all bad and should I avoid getting one? Not really if it is only for the added protection. To be clear here, and without the intention to blame any of the above sellers, some protectors actually do have a top layer made from glass and you can hear it as in the above video - it sound solid and not like plastic if you tap it with something hard. Another factor is the simple fact that plastic absorbs impact much better than glass. So where a real glass screen protector might shatter and crack like in the above video, the fake ones might one get a nasty dint or scratch. But you should be aware and clear about what you get and what to expect from it. These glass imitations are made from a strong polycarbonate plastic, similar to the stuff used for bullet and explosion proof "glas" windows - if you every watched the Mythbusters you have seen the big sheets I mean. The top layer of these things is specially treated to repell water, oil and dirt, it also gives the surface the good scratch resistance. The technique is nothing new, camera lenses, plastic sheets and the clear covers you see over the timetable at your bus stop all use it. The new thing is to intentionally mislable a product to make the consumer think it is glass ;) What is the real difference for the user? Check this video. Here a guy performs a drop test with a real glass screen protector. Thing is once the protector breaks the screen itself is broken too but until then it was not too bad. Here it is demonstrated how a real glass screen protector reacts to certain types of abuse - one of the reason I decided on glass. Compared to the plastic counterfeits just the sound on the glass is worth it, but I think the hacksaw was best. Another video from XDA gives a bit more info on how the glass is made - if you can't seeing a phone being abused then don't watch the drop tests at the end ;) Glass with these hardness levels and types of surface protection will give the user a long and worry free use of the phone. The plastic fakes will perform at a similar level for some time but will show signs of wear long before even the top coat of the glass one fails. Both types have their uses and if the fakes would be labeled correctly the user would actually benefit from that. On bigger screens like a tablet I would actually prefer the plastic ones to prevent damage once it needs replacing. On a mobile used in less than perfect conditions I would also go for plastic as it usually is a bit thinner and will fit better within quality hard covers. But when it comes to real abuse like using with dirty fingers most of the time or mostly outdoors where a lot of dust and fine sand can be involved I always go for glass. If you paid attention to the surface treatment then you already realised that the plastic and the glass are in the same region, making them quite scratch resistant. Still fine sand or metal dust will scratch it.... The difference is in the hardness of the actual material that was covered with the oleophobic film. Glass will not give in any way, where plastic is much softer - so not to be confused with the surface hardness! This mean that sharp and point object will easier penetrate the plastic than the glass, something to be considered if you often ecounter harsh use. In terms of actual protection we need to differenciate between surface quality and actual screen damage. After all when badly scratched we can replace the protector but if the display got damaged we are back to square one. The surface hardness was already covered so let's move on to the screen itself. In some of the above videos you can see the abuse a screen might see in normal conditions, and if we would not drop our phones so often repair shops would not be at every corner LOL I have done quite a few screen repairs, mostly for friends and work mates that did not want to pay the hefty extras in a repair shop. From there I got the stories on how it happened and in almost all cases the screen cracked when the phone landed on the corners. In one case the screen and glass protector failed, including the actual display when the phone was dropped out of a 4WD and landed screen first onto a rock. A glass protector will spread the (direct onto the face) impact force onto a much larger area, where a plastic one will produce a dint onto the actual screen much sooner. So again glass wins in terms of actually protecting your expensive screen. But be aware that all this is useless if the phone lands on the corners!! Let me explain: Both the top glass on your screen and the screen protector have a thin layer of "glue". This acts like a shock absorber, so unless an impact goes deep enough so the pressure on the actual screen is too much only the protector should fail. But the screen itself is a tight fit into the frame of the phone, so all side and corner impacts go directly into the glass. As the rest of the glass has no way to give or go the stresses will crack the screen. How should I treat my phone with the new screen protector? Exactly the same way you would without it of course. But if you don't have a proper cover that offers protection of the corners you should invest in one. Having a quality protector and a good case does not mean your phone can be used as a football, see it as an added insurance in case something does go wrong. For obvious reason it can also pay off to have a spare at hand, if something bad happens that requires replacement of the protector you won't be left with an unprotected screen ;) Last but not least, double it up: For people that already know their screen will see a fair bit of abuse in term of scratches it is a good idea to put an extra film protector onto the glass one. Once it is too scratched you peel it off and replace it, while the glass protector gives you the actual protection for your screen. Corning Willow glass As time of wrinting Corning Willow glass is the only "flexible" glass on the market, unless stated with your flexible screen protector you can assume it will be just plastic. I did not list it above as this high tech material is mainly reserved for displays and at least to my knowledge is not available for screen protectors, although I will stand corrected as I have to assume some big players use it for their protectors. The material is actually a sandwich where an ultra thin sheet of glass stis bewteen two layers of durable coating, read it up on their website it is quite interesting. It won't reach the strength of their famous Gorilla glass so without an outer plastic that has the additional oleophobic coating it won't provide the strenght of real tempered glass protectors. Some phones like the Galaxy Round and the fleixble HTC phones use it for example.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Traditionally built furniture - maybe as a contest?

I saw a quite old "home improvement" show from the 80's the other day and was stunned to remember how much we gained in ready to use parts and tools these days.A part of the show focussed on a custom made dining table with a matching cupboard/sideboard.The interesting thing here was that no nails or screw were used.Tongue and groove systems, smart notches and such were used instead with just wood glue.I admit the professionals made it look easy to use a hand planer and chisels to carve out some ornaments and details but the result speaks for itself IMHO.We now mainly use power tools, ready to go parts like metal angles, easy screw systems and so on.Wouldn't it be great to have a contest where people actually build wooden furniture, even if it is just a chair, by using traditional tools only?To misuse the term call it "Organic furniture" ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Contest Judges Needed

Hi everyone! We need to update our judge list with some new names!To be eligible to judge, you must have posted at least ONE instructable. Let us know which contest categories you're interested to judge in the comments below: CookingWorkshopCircuitsCraftLivingOutsideTeachersThe judging process is fairly simple and involves looking at contest finalists and rating them on a scale from 0-9. Judging is open Friday afternoon through Monday night. Time spent judging is around 30 minutes to two hours - it all depends on how thorough you are!If it’s not a good time for you to judge when we contact you, no worries. We always try to assign more judges than we need in case something comes up.You can find out more about the judging process here.Don't worry! Judges are selected after finalists are selected, so volunteering to judge will not affect your chances of being a finalist in any contest you enter.Thanks for helping us keep the site awesome!

Topic by jessyratfink   |  last reply


What kinds of contests do YOU want to see on Instructables?

Hi everyone! As we're planning contests for the next year, we wanted to get suggestions and feedback on the types of contests we're running. :DIs there a contest we ran years ago you'd like to see again? Any contests you're sick of? A weekly challenge you'd like us to expand on? Do you want the contests to be more specific or more open ended?We're trying to shake things up in contest-land - so any and all suggestions are welcome! I'm especially interested in what types of tech contests you guys would like to see, as well as ideas for food contests. P.S. For anyone wondering about weekly challenges - we're still trying to figure out a way to do it that makes it easy for you guys to enter and easy for the editors here to run. But I promise we are discussing it! :)Have prize suggestions? Check this topic. Want to get a preview of some of our upcoming contests?

Topic by randofo   |  last reply


The Clinic // Get help with your Instructables!

Hello and welcome to the newest version of The Clinic! If you have an instructable that's not getting the attention you think it deserves, post it in the comments below for honest feedback and suggestions to improve it from fellow authors and Instructables staff. We want to help you create the best instructables you can! Curious about the basics of creating an instructable? Check out my FREE How to Write an Instructable Class! You can also read through our Featuring Checklist. Posting a great instructable has many benefits, including:More viewsMore comments and followersHaving your instructable Featured on the site Having your instructable featured on our social media accounts (Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest)Better chance to win contests Driving traffic to your websiteP.S. While I know the goal for any instructable is to get Featured, it's not the end goal here! We're sure to hand out features, but please keep in mind not every instructable is feature-worthy. Even the most popular authors have unfeatured instructables! Don't let it get you down - you're still amazing! :D

Topic by jessyratfink   |  last reply


Author Spotlight Interviews: Nominate an author!

We recently began a new round of author spotlight interviews. For the first interview, we chose to reach out and chat with Nikus, who recently won the grand prize in this year's Epilog Contest. You can check out our interview here: Author Spotlight: NikusThese interviews are a great way to learn a little more about individual contributing authors here on Instructables, and see what makes them tick! Is there someone who is an active author that you'd be interested in learning more about? Now's your chance to nominate a fellow author. There are no set requirements to be eligible to be nominated. But generally, we're looking for authors who've shared a good handful of high-quality projects, which made a notable splash within the Instructables community.And yes, if you're feeling bold, you may certainly nominate yourself! : )

Topic by seamster   |  last reply


Giving away a 3-month membership

Who knows? I feel like being nice today :DAnyways, Comment something nice about one of your favorite authors, someone who helped you, etc.That is an entry. One entry per person. On Monday, (tommorow), 3 pm, I'll pick one person to get a premium membership! Also, PLEASE don't enter if you've already gotten a membership. This is meant for people with no memberships only. Good Luck!

Topic by zakbobdop   |  last reply


Maker Collaboration with Companies, in Prototyping Activities in Product Development | Survey, Thesis

I would greatly appreciate it if you could find the time to fill in my survey, here: https://forms.gle/YHHbEzEy9NGQVFJGAI'm studying my masters, in Design and Innovation, at The Technical University of Denmark. The thesis project is to develop a prototyping tool to help companies engage with the maker movement, in their prototyping activities. I'm trying to identify how makers can benefit companies in collaboration and vise versa. To put it bluntly, we know makers (and I include myself as a 'maker') are much better at producing low cost solutions to novel problems using limited resources, than most companies. I'm trying to make a tool which will help facilitate collaboration and co-design between product developers and makers, in a way that's mutually beneficial. The survey should only take 10-15 minutes maximum. I would also appreciate it if you could share it among your various maker communities and friends who call themselves makers! Many many thanks in advance.

Topic by AlexK350 


Hacking An Alarm Clock

My sister (yes, the one for whom I made earrings) wants me to modify an alarm clock to run a small electronic device when it goes off. Preliminary research has given me two methods:1) A digital clock with a 555 timer circuitIn this setup, a 555 timer circuit is used to translate the signal to an alarm speaker/piezo disk into a relay. When the clock goes off, the relay clicks, and any electrical device that is run through the relay has power.2) An analog clock with a transistor amplifierIn this version, the analog clock seems to just have a straight DC output to the alarm. The transistor is used to amplify the DC to drive the motor of a fire bell.Which of these would be easier to implement? The device I am supposed to use runs off of 3VDC, so I was just going to run the power line through the relay or through the transformer.

Topic by CameronSS   |  last reply


Herbst Appliance

-update-cant believe the attention this has got. either way i got my braces off...in august of 2008. Wednesday before school started. Finally.straight teeth finally, and i can eat! so great.either way it still took like 5 or 6 years, too long.Im just wearing an invisible retainer(behind my teeth, its glued in, its just a wire). Cant even feel it.Just think- if you have braces- how good it will feel when you get them off...OK, I have braces, meant to correct the spaces that were in between my teeth, and also, to move my lower jaw forward. I've had them for...5 YEARS! Needless to say, they JUST finished closing most of the gaps(again, after 5 years), and are working on moving my jaw forward. So, like almost every person I see with braces (well, some), I got rubber bands. I actually had a choice between them and the Herbst appliance. I picked the herbst-y thing, but they didn't have a part...so, blah blah blah, long story short, I got rubberbands until the part came in. So the part came in today, and I went for them to put it on, and after about an extremely boring hour, they were on. Anyway, It wasn't until then that I realized what (Insert bad word(s) here) things these were. I can't eat ( more specifically- chew), talk (clearly), or EVEN FULLY CLOSE MY MOUTH!.i hate them...................SO... ...on a lighter note, does anyone here have/had that herbst thing before?Update- I got them off, and I'm wearing rubber-bands now.

Topic by John Smith   |  last reply


I need a good paintball gun

Can someone here recommend to me the best paintball gun under 200 -250$ semi-auto or full auto if there are any full autos available for that much? I want one that I can put pretty much any barrel/parts on to upgrade and is easy to field clean and has very few to no breaks...

Topic by tickarise   |  last reply


Attempting to make my own toe prosthesis...

Any helpful suggestions? I'll explain my situation: I have a partial right big toe amputation. basically, the entire tip end where the nail is supposed to be is gone, right to the joint, leaving me with a stubby, short half-toe. I've found some companies that will make realistic prosthetic toes, fingers, ears, etc, but the cost is too much for me. ($3000 for something with a life expectancy of only 2 -3 years!) I've decided to make my own using silicone. My plan is to make a mold of my sister's toe and fill it with silicone. I'll also mold my poor little stub, make a plaster replica of it, and stick it into the silicone-filled mold of my sister's toe. The idea is to custom-fit it to my toe. The parts that I'm finding difficult are painting it to look realistic, and also finding an acrylic nail large enough to pass as a large toenail. If anyone has any suggestions, or even a better method, please feel free to enlighten me! Thanks.

Topic by i_do_not_mow_lawns   |  last reply


New Feature on Instructables: Teacher Notes

We’re excited to announce a new feature to share your knowledge, and help to bring more making into classrooms all over the world: Teacher Notes! Teacher Notes can be added to any instructable to show how it was used in the classroom. Educators can upload photos, lesson plans, and other resources to demonstrate their favorite ways to bring hands-on learning to their students.A Teacher Note is much more than a comment you can leave on an Instructable because they are designed to provide valuable information for other educators about how an Instructable was used in a classroom setting. The Teacher Note editor has options for noting grade levels and subjects, as well as attaching resources such as Docs or PDFs of lesson plans, graphic organizers, or other classroom materials created to support students with the project. Sharing a Teacher Note is an excellent way to connect with, learn from, and support other educators within the global Instructables Community.Do you have an Instructable project you've used with your students? Did you create resources such as lesson plans or student handouts to go with a project you found on the site? Did you adapt parts of an instructable or use different materials to create a project for your students? If you’ve done any of these things, then you can create a Teacher Note and share how you incorporated that project into your classroom so other educators can do the same. Have a project in mind and ready to post your first Teacher Note? To learn more about Teacher Notes and how they function, you can check out this handy tutorial: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Add-Teach... If you have questions, feel free to ask them here. :) Like this feature? Share it with other educators who you think would love it too!The first 100 teachers to post Teacher Notes will receive an Instructables mug prize pack! Be sure to describe how you used the project in your classroom in a way that will help other teachers be successful.

Topic by WeTeachThemSTEM 


How to insulate a cooler box

I have just bought a plastic cooler box. It is two boxes in one: an inside lining, an air cavity, the outside case and  of course a lid and handle.. I would like to improve the insulation. I have a 750ml can of expanding polyurethane foam which I thought of spraying into the cavity. It will dry in an hour. I can work out the exact volume  to be filled with  the foam by prefilling it with water and measuring the amount of water that pours out of the cavity , but I do not know the best way to apply the foam. Any ideas, please. For example should I wrap the inner box in anything before pushing it into the wet foam that I  spray against the inside of the outer case? Robin

Topic by R89163   |  last reply


Thermoelectric cooler/module

I'm working on a project with peltier coolers. I want to get it as cold as I can. What would be my optimum power source? Amps over volts? If it helps I am planning to hardwire the device. and I'll have plenty of room for mounting fans on the hot sides heatsink Here are the specs 50mm x 50mm x 3.64mm 245 - 320 Watts of cooling power Operates from 0-15 volts DC and 0-26 amps Operates from -60 deg C to +180 deg C Thanks

Topic by curve12   |  last reply


xbox 360 gamertags.

Hi instructables. I just wanted this to be a forum so we can get to know each other's xbox 360 gamertags. Pls. post yours. P.s. mines is Y3ahWhat3v3r P.P.S. I'll send you all friend requests if you want.

Topic by SeMi_AuToMaTic   |  last reply


Trouble with cover images for Instructables

I have been recently seeing this problem. Whenever I click an image upside down on my phone and edit it to flip to normal, it gets corrected and comes in the correct orientation. After uploading the image on the editor, everything looks fine, even after saving the changes, but after refreshing the page after a while, the cover image again flips upside down. If anyone has solution, kindly look into this issue.

Topic by KushagraK7   |  last reply


May 2019 site changes: my observations and thoughts

In early May 2019, Instructables' website has been radically reworked with a revamp. Changes I have observed include:Navigation: Many categories and subcategories have been eliminated and instead reworked under other folders as part of the changes (there is no "Play" category and subcategories such as "NERF" and "Paper Airplanes" no longer exist) "Recent" filtering is not directly available to people browsing the site--you must sift through the categories and get through at least two pages to find a way to filter the selected category for "recent" (i.e. Homepage -> Circuits -> Projects -> (Page at which you may select "recent")) There are no filters for searches On the front page and in the categories' main pages, featured projects are emphasizedThe Forum/"Community": Without manually typing in the URL, there is no direct way to access the "community" page Buttons to access the forum among in the category pages are tied to the community pages for that category (as a result. They do not allow you to see the general forum posts of the community without viewers manually deleting the category from the URL and going from thereThe way people navigate about sites controls what they can see and how they see if, so all of these things will change the flow and behavior of Instructables' viewers versus how it was before. Versus before, it is more cumbersome for viewers to get to recent content while featured content is more readily available. This will influence where people go and what they see.----------------------------------What do I believe this means for the future?Drawing on my decade of experience on this site, I suspect viewership of non-featured Instructables will drop. Thus, the viewership gap--between those projects that have been featured and those that have not--will then widen.Of these changes I think people will say you either "get featured or get buried."

Topic by OrigamiAirEnforcer   |  last reply


Variable height desk: replace hand-crank with some kind of electrical motor

Hi, First time poster here, sorry if I'm misplacing this. I have near zero knowledge of engines, though I understand physics, at least from my civil engineering college years. I bought a variable height desk from IKEA (Skarsta model), which has a 12cm radius hand crank (see photos) that ends in a hexagon shape, h=6mm (so diameter around 6,93mm). This hand crank works fairly easily, needing little effort to crank the table up, with ~45kg of weight on it (it's supposed to go up to 50kg). So basically I was thinking if there was a easy, cheap and safe way of automating this with some sort of electric motor (I even looked up those Lego Technic motors!). Any suggestions? Thanks  

Topic by acn   |  last reply


Rate my art

Hey, I recently drew a portrait of Lady Gaga, and I have then added some colour to it using photoshop. I would love if you guys could give me any critques or positives about it, so that I can improve it! And then I can start working on other drawings I have done too. Thanks :)

Topic by rebeccah18   |  last reply


Rate My Drawing!

This is a portrait I drew of a friend of mine. It took me about 2-3 hours to complete. Please tell me what you think, thank you :)

Topic by FoxyPenguin94   |  last reply


Insects for jewelry

Can somebody tell me, where I can order insects to make different jewelry for cheap price? I look forward to your reply

Topic by MNellyxz   |  last reply


HELP, CNC 5 AXIS

Hello all well,I live in Brazil, I am an artisan! I have questions about making one (Homemade 5 axis CNC) for sculpting Styrofoam or clay.An example :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nITLI_WcnuM&feature;=youtu.beAnother example :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhexbkJpvWA&feature;=youtu.beI need 5 axis CNC. I searched the internet and found no example, no tutorial. Can anyone help me?

Topic by brunoovox   |  last reply


Prize suggestions and feedback needed! What would YOU like to win?

Hi everyone! Here at HQ we're always planning contests, but sometimes we run out of prize ideas. :D I would love to hear any and all suggestions for products you guys would like to win! I'd also love to hear feedback about prizes we've offered this year - what did you like? What didn't you like? Do you prefer getting a shiny new electronic toy or a prize pack more suited to the theme of the contest? Have a suggestion for a contest theme? Check out this topic!

Topic by randofo   |  last reply


Sharpening a concave blades like Kukri or similar

Every now and then you have someone approaching with the odd job.This time it was in the form of an old Kukri / Gurkha knife.Wasn't expecting this when I was asked a few days ago if I could sharpen some old knife so it can be used for camping.The knife had a few marks from hitting hard stuff or maybe the occasional nail.But the worst was that for as long as guy had that knife it was only "sharpened" using a belt sander.You know, these tiny machines advertised to give your (kitchen-) knife the perfect edge.We could now argue about the pros and cons of having a knife edge that is literally rounded.But once it was done so many times that the edge really looks rounded it becomes obvious why this method only works for thinner blades.Adding to the problem was the fact that the belt used was just over 1.5cm wide.Appereantly so it is easier to do the concave part of the blade.Lets just say lengthwise it looked like someone created a wave pattern LOLThere was nothing "straight" on this nice blade anymore.Now, if you look up how to properly sharpen thise Kukri knifes then you can find all sorts of really useful tips.One I really likes was to use some eraser and toglue sandpaper on it.Small and flexible enough to cause minimal damages to the curve towards the handle.Another nice one is to use half round diamond file, preferable of a finer grit in the 600 region.Should work fine - if you plan to invest an awful lot of money on such a file.I however like things quite often done the old fashioned way.The oldest trick in the book....Whether you are using chisels and work on wood, just love to keep your knifes sharp or go on long camping or hiking trips - sharp knifes and tools just become your thing.The main thing everyone tells you is a super flat surface for whatever is supposed to sharpen your blade.For the normal stuff that is fine and good and you only need to flatten out your stones every now and then.But what about these odd jobs?Imagine you would need to sharpen a long paper cutting blade on some machine.Might be over a meter long and it has to stay with a perfectly straight edge.Back in the day this task was not done with some very expensive stone of large size....Instead sandpaper of various grit was used on a flat steel surface.I actually prefer a small pane of glass and tape my sandpaper on it.Hard to find anything finer than 1000 or 2000 grit but you might be surprised how well this stuff polishes onces clogged up a bit.Its all about the right level of wetness...Anyways, for our Kukri in question I decided it is time to do the same but in a way that does not harm the blade, constantly cut into the eraser and still is solid and "flat".If you still work with a sickle then you already know where I am going here ;)I used a small diameter spray can as my surface to hold the sandpaper.Of course a piece of PVC pipe, round wood or similar would warok the same way....Sticky tape does not work well with sandpaper unless you use double sided stuff.But it is enough to wrap one round on the top and one on the bottom of the sandpaper on the can to hold in place.So much for the basics....If you know how to sharpen a knife then you also know that there is a prefered way of doing it.Depending on the blade and stone in question you literally try to cut a thin slice out of the stone with every stroke.Either stright or with a cutting motion.This works fine with sandpaper on a flat surface, not so much however on a round surface.Try it and you see how you cut off the sand from the paper and constantly ruin your edge.The only way to do it is to move with the edge.You start from the heel and stroke to the tip.The can is used likea sharpening rod and shall always stay at a 90° to the curve of the blade.Takes a bit of practice to find the right grip to hold the blade while moving and twisting the can but well worth it.The rounded surface only allows for a very thin area of the sandpaper to work on the edge.I started with 120 grit!!!It left a trail of destruction on the edge, at least in the rounded up section....Once I only had a very thin bit left on the edge from the old sharpening I switched to 240 grit until a flat edge formed.As the Kukri was a disaster this process still tok over 4 hours to complete.That blade was properly hardened too...The start of the finnishing was done by jump right to 600 grit paper.The first can was just slightly smaller in diameter than the concave bend in the blade - perfect to smooth out those nasty bumps.But with a burr forming now on the edge and minor mishap with angle of the can towards the curve of the blade would mean cutting into the can while sharpening the concave bit.Meant I used my emergency insect repellant can as I did not like the idea of hoping my pepper shaker would start leaking while sharpening ;)If you blade is not too damaged you can of course start right away with a smaller diameter.The process is the same as before.Move along the blade and keep the can at the 90° angle towards the curve.Once you feel a burr forming on the side turn over until you have a bur on the previous side again.Repeat until all the marks from the coarser grit are gone and the edge has a uniform shine.Switch to a finer grit and go as high as you can here.I had to stop at 1000 grit as my supply of 2000 and 4000 grit is out.Hints and tricks along the way....It really helps to do this sandpaper sharpening under running water.The paper won't clog up, you won't risk a losse grain making really deep marks...But on a bad blade this can take several hours and would do it with a small aquarium pump or so and some gloves.A fine but stiff brush and soapy water however do wonders to clean up used sandpaper!I prefer to use these re-used pieces before switching to a finer grit.In most cases they are already finer than the next grit and create a nice polish that makes the visual confirmation of your right angle and angle of attack easy.A kukri is a working blade!It is mot meant to make fish filet or shave you legs.It is somewhere between axe, big bowie knife and hatchet.That mean if you would dare to give a 8° angle either side of the edge you would have a pretty damn wide edge...Stick to the original in width but keep it nice and flat.It is good compromise between cutting sharpness and durability when for example chopping wood for your camp fire.DO NOT USE A BELT SANDER!!I said it before but have to repeat it again as there is people using a big belt sander with enough free space to add a set of wheel that creat the curve I got from my spray can.The guys in India that make these knife do this blind folded....It takes years of practise to get the steady hand required not to cut through the belt.The beginners start in reverse, meaning the belt runs towards the edge.These guys only to the basic forming of the edge with really coarse grit.Basically to remove the marks from the forging.After that the pro takes over the blades and he has the belt running towards the edge!If you are silly enough to try it at home be prepared to have the belt flying in your face very violently!!The reverse sanding can't be used to finnish a blade as you never get a proper sharpness and flatness right on the edge.So just stick to manual and take an hour or so longer but then be able to enjoy a cold drink when done.You need surprisingly little sandpaper in terms of clogging up and getting useless until you get to the finer grits.If you use a wooden dowel or similar then make it a bit longer and add strips about 6cm wide of sandpaper.This way you have all the grits you need in one place and can take them with you to keep your blade sharp ;)If you glue it onto the stick it is also quite easy to give it quick brush clean when done.The really tricky part starts from about 800 grit onwards.Every mishap on the concave part can mean damage to your paper or to your edge.When using stone most beginner think that using a lot of pressure is a good way to remove the material quickly.In reality however it is just a sure way to wobble the blade over the stone, especially if the blade is not fully straight.Sandpaper can be more aggressive than your stones as in our case you only work with a little area and every time you turn the can only a little bit you have a fresh piece of paper working instead of a slurry building up.This mean you really do't need much pressure at all.It is the repetition, not the pressure that gives you the edge if you don't mind the pun here. ;)For a real working knife stopping at 1000 grit once you do single strokes either side of the blade is sufficient.The tiny burr left will disappear quickly during use and the Chakmak can be used for a quick refurbishing after every longer use.Should mean you only need to get the sandpaper out once you edge actually started to get blunt again.The final stroke....There are those people that don't have a kukri to go camping...Some people like to collect them.Restoring an old kukri can be done like with any other knife.That is until you want a razo sharp edge that is also highly polished.This is quite possible with the original edge width on the kukri.But of course you can only go so far with sandpaper....Modern technolgy provides us with the solution in several options.Firstly we have the ceramic sharpening rods.Unless you can do with kitchen variety thickness you need to pay a lot of money.A short 8cm diameter rod can set you back over 100 bucks with ease.Especially if you want something that provides a mirror like finnish.And alternative that is often available relatively cheap is a ruby rod.They can often be found with slight damages that make them useless for laser applications.Even burnt out rods are still fine as long as they are not cracked.It is quite hard (literally) to give them a satin finnish but I found that good quality sandpaper is sometimes capable of doing it.I like one side smooth and the other half of the rod with a satin finnish to prepare the edge.On the budget there is quality wet and dry sandpaper as commonly used in paintshops.If used dry the finer grits tend to clog up on such a wide edge.Once you have a piece of 1000 or finer grit that is fully clogged up you can use to give the edge a final polish.With this you won't even need a leather strop anymore but as said it takes a lot of practise so you won't cut the paper in the concave area.The steel rod....If you happen to have a hardened steel rod, like from a motion rail, small drive shaft or a big drill then give it a try.When using a drill:Of course use the end of the drill, not the working part ;)Also make sure it really is motth as any burr from the chuck or such will cause deep scratches on your blade.If it starts to feel sticky after a few good stroke you know the drill method is working.If it continues to feel very smooth and you don't see any polishing effect at all if tried on a small area only then you blade is of really good quality.But then again you would have confirmed that already by the ongoing swearing during the endless hours trying to remove some material from the edge...A word of advise for the first time user of a kukri:Although a good kukri is hard to damage without hitting a stone or metal, you can make blunt very quickly.It is top heavy blade and requires a steady hand when working on other things than meat.Chopping into some wood and letting the blade slip can deform your edge.A little mishap can be fixed with chakmak but not if hit hardwood badly a couple of times.And tempting as might be to use it as a small hatchet or axe to split your kindling:Never hold a piece of wood and then hack into it from the top with your kukri!Not only can you miss the wood and hit your hand, the wood can also split far easier or in unexpected directions!If the kurki is sharp you then have a good chance to loose a finger or two!

Topic by Downunder35m 


Bug: Page not found error for community topics

As the title states it seems to be impossible to load and topics here.....It also seems the old log out to log in bug is active again.Is it really that hard to provide a meaningful error message if the site kicked you out and you need to log in again?Sorry but I fail to see the point of appearing to be loggen in while half of the page fails to work thinking I am not logged in.Sure, loggin out, loggin in again and reloading the pages works - but am I the only one seeing this as annoying?And when you just think you made it then you get an error the site is appearently not available.Funny though that it is available for 99% of things, just not those you are currently working on ROFL

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


High School Teachers

Do you teach 9th-12th grade? If so, say hello and connect with other High School educators. Feel free to share where you are from, what grade level(s) and subjects you teach, and any exciting projects you did with your students this year or fun plans you have for your classes next year. :)

Topic by WeTeachThemSTEM   |  last reply


​Teacher/Edu Focused Contests

Hey, teacher community! Did you know we are running three exciting teacher/edu focused contests right now? And we are launching more each month! :)The Classroom Science Contest is ending July, 29th and the Grand Prize is a $1000 Amazon Gift Card.We're also running a DIY Summer Camp Contest which ends August 26th and The Growing Beyond Earth Maker Contest which ends February 2nd.As we're planning more education focused contests, we would love to get your suggestions and feedback for the types of contests and prizes you would like to see.Is there a contest for a specific subject or topic you'd like to see? Are there prizes that would help meet a need in your classroom?We want the teacher contests to be a fun way to show off what you're doing in the classroom and provide you with prizes that help you continue to do all the amazing stuff you do, so let us know. :DP.S. Here's a preview of some of our upcoming contests.

Topic by WeTeachThemSTEM   |  last reply


Laser Cutting in the Classroom

After creating a makerspace at my elementary school, I was always on the lookout for fresh projects and new tools and a laser cutter was that one big item at the top of my wishlist that I just never got... but, I know some teachers and librarians who are brand new to the world of laser cutting and would love pointers from other teachers who have already worked through some of the challenges of starting something new. :) So, if you have a laser cutter in your classroom or school makerspace, please share any tips or suggestions you might have for any teachers who are just starting out with one at their school. Also, feel free to share any cool projects you and your students have done or programs you use.

Topic by WeTeachThemSTEM   |  last reply


List of Upcoming Contests (updated 6/4/19)

Hello everyone! Below is a partial list of the 2019 contest calendar. Keep in mind that this list is subject to change and contests will continue to be added throughout the year. The contests below are already in planning, and I've left off ones that we're still trying to decide on. The months indicate when the contests will be launching. All contests will launch near the beginning of each month. Keep in mind that the list below is not set in stone. All contests and dates are subject to change!JulyPlanter Challenge Design and create a planter or potPaint Challenge Painting tutorials, tips and tricks, using paint to refresh old itemsBBQ Challenge Share your best grilling recipes ands favorite sidesSew Tough Challenge Sewing projects, but extra rugged and practicalGame ContestOpen to all games and gaming inspired projects: cosplay, props, tabletop games, arcade machines, controller mods, etc.DIY Summer Camp ContestPitch a tent, learn archery, build a boat, get campyStone, Concrete & Cement ContestGet stuck between a rock and a hard place and make cool stuffAugustFlying ChallengeIf your project flies, we want to see itSpicy ChallengeFeeling hot, hot, hot... when it comes to these recipesClassroom Organization ChallengeShow us your favorite solutions to tame the craft and work supply madnessMake it Move ContestAny project that moves is eligibleMetal ContestUse metal in your project - head banging optionalIndoor Lighting ContestWe love lampTeacher ContestTeach us your ways, oh educators!SeptemberMotor Vehicle ContestCars, trucks, vans, motorcycles... you get the ideaMaps ChallengeMake cartography great againKitchen Skills ChallengeShare your kitchen knowledgeCNC ContestBuild a project using a CNCMultidiscipline ContestOpen to projects that combine two or more disciplines, like woodworking AND sewingSkateboarding ContestBuild a board, share tricks, wax every ledgeHalloween ContestCostumes, props, decorations, food and moreOctoberAfter School ChallengeAfter school projects and activities Book Character Costume ChallengeLet your imagination run wild and bring your favorite book characters to lifeCandy ChallengeSugar and spice and everything niceArt Skills ChallengeDrawing, painting, sculpting, animation and moreMade with Math ContestCombine math with makingRobots ContestMake yourself a robotic friendNovemberMeal Prep ChallengeGet a gold star in being an adult and teach us how to meal prepFashion ContestIt's called fashion sweetie, look it upInvention ContestSolve everyday problems by creating something newAssistive Tech ContestUse technology to make life easierHome Decor ContestRefresh and restyle the DIY wayReuse ContestWork with what you've got instead of buying newDecemberPCB Badge ChallengeCreate custom PCB badges using EagleCrazy 4 Coding ChallengeShare fun coding projectsCookies ChallengeC is for cookie, and cookie is for meFiber Arts ChallengeThe challenge for all textile arts: weaving, crochet, embroidery, sewing, etc.Instrument ContestMake some noiseMad Science Fair ContestOpen to all science fair projects and experimentsShelving ContestGet creative with shelvingMake it Glow ContestAdd LEDs to all the things! *All contests and dates are subject to change. Please leave suggestions for prizes here. You can also leave suggestions about contests here. Have a contest question? Check the Contest FAQ!

Topic by randofo   |  last reply


Important Changes to Contests - May 1st

Hello everyone! As most of you have probably noticed, we haven’t changed much with our contests over the last several years. But this year we’re changing that, thanks to all of you and your important feedback! In 2018, we are going to be trying new things when it comes to contests. We believe these changes will lead to a larger variety of winners and even more incredible instructables!With that said, we’d like to announce two major contest updates starting on May 1st. #1 - Every instructable can only be entered into ONE single contest.At first, this may seem like bad news, but we promise it’s actually good: the new rule will allow more authors to win prizes! We’re reducing the number of prizes ONE instructable can win, but this will allow for more winners overall. While we’re sure some of you will be disappointed, this is a great way to level the playing field and simplify the process for both authors and judges. The old contest system allowed an author to enter three contests with one instructable, which greatly increased the number of entries per contest. Along with increasing the number of entries per contest, the old system tended to pit new authors against much more experienced authors who understand that they can up their chances of becoming a finalist by working multiple contest themes into an instructable. We hope this new contest rule will encourage our authors to commit fully and enthusiastically to one contest theme and create more focused projects, instead of stressing about making something to qualify for three separate contests!.#2 - We are creating more Prize Packs.Currently, if you win a contest at any prize level you will get an Instructables prize pack, some stickers, and whatever other random swag we have lying about in our prize room. As it turns out, this has created a situation in which our best authors end up filling their homes with piles of instructables T-shirts. We recognize that winning T-shirts over and over again is boring.To make Prize Packs Great Again over the next few months, we are going to roll out new Prize Packs on a permanent and limited edition basis. When you win a contest, you will be able to select the standard T-shirt prize pack, but you will also have new choices coming soon.Make sure to keep an eye out soon for new Instructables swag we know you’ll love!

Topic by randofo   |  last reply


Cloning the famous ARA-2000 antenna for SDR use

Several years ago the company behind the original ARA-2000 antenna, Dressler Hochfrequenztechnik, closed.The ARA series of antennas, like many other products by this company never got a patent, instead it was trusted that no one would bother to replicate it.A bit like the Swiss Army knife, many tried to copy it, none really managed to match the original quality.There is quite a bit of hacking still going on for this antenna, most projects though seem to be abandoned at the time of writing this.I am currently trying to figure out how to create an entire clone that everyone who knows how to properly use a soldering iron can build.There is a lot to consider here...The active element is of quite unusual shape and needs to be wound around a cylinder of a pretty accurate diameter.My initial tests showed that for example aluminium foil with some unavoidable wrinkles already has a negative effect.And a change in diameter of just 2mm means the entire antenna only performs badly for the entire band.This part is thankfully already solved to my satisfaction using thin copper sheets and some stiff plastic sheet.Quite a pain though is the MMIC part - the amplifier that makes the antenna active.There is a ton of MMIC blobs available, either solo or as a ready to go amplifier.Downside is that without really knowing any characteristics of the original is comes down to guesswork.And as most of the cheap SDR dongles won't provide a BIAS TEE I will opt for an external power supply for the amp.I might provide the option for a inline use a bit later though.Why clone the ARA-2000 antenna?For starters you need to forget the mythical stories you might have heard about this antenna."Picks up even the weakest signals!", "Totally linear over the entire bandwidth" and so on...Without the amplifier the antenna is actually not even average in therms of reception performance.My initial tests with a network analyser showed that the anteanna actually is behaving really weird (without the amp!).Although this first bit needs further testing, it seems that most, if not all of the work in the 1.5-2GHz range is done by just the straight connecting strup going from the amp, or in my test case the coax, to the wrapped antenna part.For anything in the more interesting frequency bands it seems that the antenna is not using anything like a discone, whip or ground plane antenna.Instead the 3rd harmonics of a given frequency provide the max power output from the antenna but it arrives at the cable at the right frequency.Especially in the lower frequencies, below 200MHz there is also quite some phase shifting happening.As a passive antenna it seems to be almost impossible to find a frequency to transmit on without using some matching trickery first.But when it comes to size or looks, the ARA outperforms everything you can think of unless you want to constantly adjust the length of your whip antenna.And if you check what is available in real (user) data in terms of noise and signal quality than most other antenna types are far worse.The design provides a wide frequency range with very little noise, almost like a build in filter.Considering that mostly harmonic frequencies are used not that surprising.Getting hooked on SDR means you start little and then you want more and more.Unless you really need the low frequency HAM bands below 50MHz the ARA is a good choice that just makes sense.What is quite surprising in the original is the total lack of protection for strong signals.Sure, we might never need a lightning arrestor because all is enclosed in plastic and has little attraction lightning, but someone hittiing the transmit button close by....I will have to do some more checks to determine whether or not more protection is required.What is the problem with amplifier?For starters, no one really knows what was used in the original - they all just guess based on how well the real design matches some datasheet.Means whatever was used might as well be a custom made solution.I checked a few datasheets for MMIC amps but could not find any useful reference to the handling of things like negative gain, phase shift or a constantly changing impedance.Some however state that a 50 or 75Ohm signal is provided at the output.If I interpret that correctly than those MMIC's not only amplify but also do some matching.In most cases you won't need an amp that works outside what the antenna can provide.Problem is that I don't like regretting things later on ;)So IMHO it would be best to use a wideband MMIC covering all from about 1MHz to a few GHz.Additional filters can then cut off what is not required or where the antenna starts to fail.What is clear by the original design is that the cable shield acts as a ground and most likely also has a balancing function.It would make sense to add a ferrite trap close the the receiver to filter out what the cable might otherwise mess up.Can the frequency range be lowered to get even the low HAM bands?The answer is YES and NO.It is not a big problem to extend the cone shape and then hope to come much lower.Issue with this is the helical, long periodic design.As basically only the 3rd harmonics are used for all interesting frequencies any ARA type antenna going much lower would end to be really long.You can't just make it longer!One thing is to have a full and even number of turns.The original only had two, three turns is bad, four means the entire antenna is slightly longer than your average downpipe for your roof gutters....Other, seemingly logical alternative would be to stick to two turns and to increase the diameter.Apart from the size problem here we would also change the shape of the foil quite a bit and I have not done enough tests with that to provide a conclusion.Are there alternative design options?As it turns out copper pipe is available in 80mm diameters for the use in chimneys as well as downpipes.With a proper machine it would be pretty straight forward to remove what is not used as the active element.Milling a pipe or rod is these days a common thing in many good workshops.But on a hobby level and low budget....One of the best options for cheap test antennas of this design is to use tinting foil - the cheapest you can find ;)Just read the lable and make sure it does not use a metalised film.If it has no UV protection and no tinit at all it is best but hard to find.A little less stiff is the stuff to cover school books or cupboards.Vinyl is bad though!If you look for copper foil in the cheap online places you mostly find the suff used for shielding in rolls of 200x1000mm.Unless you have a really sharp knife or really suitable sissors this stuff is a pain to cut as the glue tends to stick very good to whatever you use to cut through.Don't ever try one of these blade type cutters for paper and pictures unless you put a slight oil film on all cutting surfaces first....In some hobby shops you can get copper foil without any glue in different thicknesses - this stuff is the prefered option.Not only cheaper than the China rolls with glue but you invest a bit more and get a thickness that does not wrinkle right away when working with it ;)Cheap, steel downpipe and cutters or nibblers?I though about and I tried - and I failed LOLUnless you use a pin type nibbler and custom made rig the result is quite bad - at least mine was.What works though is to use thin aluminium sheets, cut them and then bend them around a suitable template.But I ran out of old laminated sings to salvage and the duble sided ones I have left are too much work.What comes next?Well, I have a few rolls of copper sheets coming next month, the cheap glue covered type.This time however I will leave the plastic cover on and use tape to secure the foil to the pipe.A two-stage amp with external power supply is coming too so I can do some more tests in this area.For the time being I will opt for some 3D printed end caps but with a bit of luck can find something easier next time I have time to waste in the hardware store.Excluding cable and a cheap USB or 12V power supply, the current costs of building the anteanna are around $40US.About half of that if you don't cennectors and attach the coax directly.Another experiement I am working on is to use copper tape, 12mm wide, to create the antenna in a semi-fractal style.I am hoping this will provide a high enough gain so the antenna is usable without an amplifier.Right now the biggest issue is to find a really SDR suitable way to deal with strong signal close by.I will keep you update here when I start with the new antenna and upload some pics along the was of building it.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Oven cleaner on alloy rims

Years of filth on my Suzuki's rims. Just sprayed it on left for 15 minutes then washed it off!! Be careful obviously it caustic. Eyes and skin protection advised.

Topic by grahambettinelli   |  last reply


Can anyone make this Crossy Road Arcade?

Anyone has any source for DIY this Crossy Road Arcade? I did lots of research about this, but dont see any information about it. Looks like there is arcade version of this game and can not be found on internet....There is only one button for jumping, no joystick is needed.Can anyone DIY this arcade and share the instruction please?Thanks

Topic by rootloop   |  last reply


XPEDIT - Looking for Collaboration

Https://www.instructables.com/id/Xpedit-Device-for... For my upcoming adventure journey, i planned to build a handheld device that helps me to monitors temperature, humidity, air pressure, and altitude. Also, an alarm can be set for any of the parameters go beyond a user-defined threshold value. The device is powered with 1000maH lipo battery, with a backup of 72 Hours continues running! Consider this project for sensor contest, if it deserves! For the next version of this project, IAM looking for Collaboration, let me know anyone is interested!Edits : Collaborators welcome If you go hiking in your spare times, Any field of expertise are welocme if you are interested ...

Topic by DIYmechanics   |  last reply


Help with wooden bathroom sink cabinet top surface

Hi, I have just relocated to Switzerland and live in a rented accommodation. The master bathroom has double sink wooden cabinets. Unfortunately, the top surface of the cabinets is not covered by glass, marble, or quartz. The sinks sit on the surface (solid wood). No matter how careful someone might be while hand washing etc., you can't get away without splashing. Major stress if you think that you might need to pay for replacement of the cabinets at the end of tenancy.How could I protect the area? Many thanks PS. (link) Master Bathroom sink top pictures

Topic by ADoZ   |  last reply


Classroom Organization

Back to school is quickly approaching, which means teachers are heading back to set up their classrooms, unpack and reorganize books and supplies, and start planning for the new group of students. If you're like me, then you are also redesigning your whole classroom furniture layout. ;D Every teacher I know seems to have a system, so I thought it would be fun to share our favorite tips and tricks for keeping it all organized.Do you use baskets and bins or folders and binders? Paper calendar or all digital? How do your students turn in their work? Mailboxes, hand-made sorters, or letter trays for each class period?How do you show off student work? Do you use student portfolios, bulletin boards, a hanging space, or the classroom windows?What about: Lesson Plans The Class Library or Guided Reading Area Math Centers STEM Resources Classroom Jobs Substitute Teacher Plans Table CaddiesThis is also a great opportunity to get inspired and plan your project ideas for the Classroom Organization Challenge that starts August 5th. :D

Topic by WeTeachThemSTEM 


Coin a phrase, or one liner

Have you ever wonder were, phrases come from like  " That's what she said " or  "See you later.......not if I see you first" or "Well, there's your problem!" I think i may of coined a phrase, but of course I can't prove it  " Its funny cause its true"   I even heard it on TV the other night, I have been saying that for years. Anyways today after a student made a mess I gave him a mop and bucket and told him to clean it up. After 20 minutes I came back and he had managed to make the mess about 100 times worse. I was very annoyed with him and I was inspired to say  "Never send an idiot to do a job a monkey could do" Anyway there is, If it takes off I will now have proof that i said it first on 20 april 2016 So whats your favorite phrase or one liner?  Maybe you could come up with the next "That's what she said!"

Topic by liquidhandwash   |  last reply


Rate My Drawing!

A portrait of my friend Suliena Please tell me what you think :) I know the hair isn't exactly like in the real photo but I really wanted it to flow more

Topic by FoxyPenguin94   |  last reply


3D Viewer

Instructables Team - I don't know when it was changed but the "View in 3D" upgrade works very well. I especially like the section analysis and exploded views.Makers - if you are like me and enjoy showing your work in CAD, please consider dropping STP/STEP files into your instructable.

Topic by mtairymd   |  last reply


Some of the current Ebay and Paypal scams to be aware of

Recently the spam activities increased for my inbox and with that the amount of phishing Emails and direct scams.Today I will only focus on the big two: Paypal and Ebay.1. General Paypal scams and phishing mails....Most of these are really easy to spot.Genuine Emails coming from Paypal always address you with your full name!Scam or other bad Paypal Emails will use your Email address or just your first name.There is a problem with some users here, but I will go into these details a bit further down.In most cases the scammer will spoof areal looking Paypal Email or server address.This means in your Email client the sender appears as "Paypal" and not some cryptic server address you can find in the source code of the offending mail.The simple scams use links to malware or phishing sites - often trying to look like the original so be aware of this.2. The latest and for some hard to spot Paypal scam.You are more likely to become a target if the Email looks genuine enough to fool you to click on some link in it.A lot of users do a quick check with the mouse on some links offered and check in the bottom left corner for the link that appears.Sadly in the latest scam mails the scammer uses genuine graphics and links.In some case directly from the Paypal servers, like logos and backgrounds.Only one link is in there that will fool you.If the scam informs you about a payment you supposedly made than it will be the link directing you to your account to cancel the payment for a refund.If the scam mail is about a refund you got then it is the same link - the one making it easy for you to get to your account settings.In one scam mail I landed on a really good looking copy of Paypal's login portal.The address bar however did not contain the usual secure HTTPS and neither a genuine address going to paypal.Problems with these new scam mails happen if you follow the suggestions or free will for naming your Email account.If your Email is for example tommy19726@mymail.com then you will spot this quite easy in the scam mail when you are addressed as tommy19726 instead of Tommy Hilfinger.It seems to be a favour now to have a real looking Email, so Tommy might have used Tommy.Hilfinger@mymail.com.And then in the scam mail he would be addressed as "Tommy.Hilfinger" - only the DOT is then different to a real Paypal mail!!!If you have one of these Email addresses with no numbers and just your first and last name then pay specail attention when checking Paypal mails!!!3. The latest Ebay scam from China :(Lately I had to order quite a few things that I could only get through Ebay for a reasanable price.Shipping costs were the major problem with other sources as I don't see the point in paying much more for postage than for what I bought.Anyways, the scam goes like this:You order something with a value above about $50.You get the usual payment confirmation and a few days later a tracking number.Problem is that this tracking number won't get any updates at all.It usually only states "Shipping information received".This means someone in China requested a shippment but never actually lodge an item or had one picked up.You can't do anything through Ebay until the max delivery time is over.Trying to get a working tracking number from those seller only gives you excuses but nothing of use.In many cases the answer you get has no relation to your request!Once the last date to get the shippment is over the seller keeps stalling and asks you to wait a few days more.No attempt to explain that the tracking shows that nothing at all was sent on the way gets any useful answer.It is like talking to your digital assistent set to a language you don't speak.Once you start a claim through Ebay the case and refund is handled quite quickly.Does not mean you are left alone by the seller, especially if you did the right thing and left negative feedback.And no surprise, suddenly the seller is then even able to uderstand your language LOLBiggest thing is that these dodgy seller are adjusting quickly.Once you state in your responses that you will open a calim they usually "offer" a refund.Even if you clearly state you want the item and not the refund you will get a nice thank note back and then a refund that makes a claim impossible.You are left with no item and can wait another 3 or 4 weeks if you find trustworthy seller that is.Only chance is to open a "Item not received" claim right after the last due date.But even if Ebay agrees and provides you with a refund, as they have no interest to do more, you need be quick!The item in question will end in the hidden section of your purchase history.Only if enable to show your hidden items you can then select it to rate at least the transaction for a negative feedback.If you act quick enough you can even leave negative feedback in the usual way, but only through activating your hidden items.What can you do to stay secure?The easiest way for Paypal is to simply ignore all content in any Email you get that seems to be from Paypal!Whatever you do or feel you need to check: Go directly into your Paypal account through the app or with your browser but DO NOT use any links provided in any Email.If you think an Email is suspicious then just forward the Email to "spoof@paypal.com" - or .com.au for Australia, .de for Germany and so on.In case the Email is genuine you will get a corresponding response.If the Email is indeed fishy then Paypal will notify you to delete the Email in question.For Ebay the problem is not s easy - at least if you don't buy locally.From my end I can only state it is the Chinese sellers, Hong Kong and mainland.And a few years back the recommendation was not to buy from a seller with less than 95% of positive feedback.You can try it yourself and mess up one sale if you are private and see how badly your feedback goes down - just kidding, please don't try!!!With the introduction of "power Sellers" and Ebay stores however this guide was rendered totally useless.A power seller with 99.7% positive feedback can still literally have hundrets of negative feedback comments for the past few months.Quite often you see it spiked a month or 6 ago - a clear indicator the seller is going to new account and tries to make as much quick money as possible before Ebay closes him down for good.If in doubt you really need to check the negative feedback in detail before buying.Some really dodgy sellers make all sales "private".This not only removes the item from the feedback but also the sale price.Intended only for special uses, Ebay sees no need to stop this misuse.If you can't see detailed feedback for a seller then just don't trust the seller!If you see way too many negative feedback comments during the past 6 months then stay away!Click on other listing showing identical listing images and you can be almost certain that even if the seller name is different it will be the same scammer.You can usually confirm this by seeing a similar pile up of negative feedback with that seller.Why do I stress so much about Ebay scammers if you get a refund anyways?Interest...No really, I mean interest in getting it for the money in your account.Firstly, if you wasted about 100 bucks and waited a few weeks for finally getting a refund, then you were out of pocket twice.Once by paying for something you never got and then again for the money you lost in interest.Sure on your end only a few cents worth...But see it from the other side:Have just hundred transactions of $50 going into your Paypal account where you never actually bother to send anything.Add a longer than usual shipping time and make it free.Means you have $5000 in your account collecting interest rates for 4 to 6 weeks.Do it on an even bigger scale and you can invest 10.000 or more on a regular base.With up to 10% of interest on foreign currency Chinese banks are only too happy to take it.Or did you never wonder why an item sold in Greece needs to be paid for in US Dollar, UK Pound or Canadian Dollar? ;)A good Ebay scammer can make over $25.000US in interest rate payouts this way before Ebay even decides to limit or monitor his sales.And once Ebay or the feedback rating goes to negative on him it continues on another account with the same items and availbilities.Quite often you can find a seller has let's say 5 items sold and 12 still available.Isn't it then funny and of course pure coincidence that another seller has the same, hard to find item, with the exact same 5 items sold and 12 available?Ebay has no interest to actually stopping this in any way, Paypal also prefers to look away if the same account is used for multiple Ebay accounts.Not even the need to provide the Paypal details of the seller in plain english is a requirement anymore.You need to use a translator to figure out what "company" is behind the Paypal account and it never matches the Ebay account in any way....I did some checks on the few suspicious sellers that still had at least item prices listed with their negative feedback.There are some out there having a vlue of well over $12.000US in "not received" claims over the last 12 months.About a year ago I tried to start a little (ad sponsored) reporting service online.Scammed Ebay users were asked to provide the details about the item, Paypal address of the seller and the amount/time until refunded.Within 3 days of going online and with only having two users that reported a scammer my provider gave me a shut down notice - effective immediately.A few days later I got an Email stating my website was shut after both Ebay and Paypal stated I would violate their privacy terms and break US law.Needless to say this notice also included a note informing me that if I attempt to conitnue to provide such service I will be taken to court for legal action.So what was the fuzz all about you might wonder?It was planned that users can provide the required data, without this data actually showing up anywhere.Once the databse was full enough a user could enter a seller or shop name or even a Paypal account to have it checked for negative things.You either get "unknown" or a list that states when and how many users reported this seller.With no deatils about any transactions, item numbers or user names linked.Did I mention how supportive Ebay and Paypal were when I contacted them about the take down notice? ROFLRules and regulations...I pointed these flaws out to Ebay and Paypal more times than I can count over the past 3 or four years.But as always, money is all that matters and those scammers won't be stopped.If you get a refund then the seller will be punished by more than your feedback, only if the Paypal account he used was unable to provide the required funds.In the rare case the Paypal account disappears with the seller you will notice the refund comes from Ebay or Paypal but not from the seller's account.This is the only real buyer protection Ebay has on offer.The rest is just following the pressure of local laws, especially in terms of refund and warranties.Does not mean though a warranty for an Ebay item will be honored by a company....If you start selling on Ebay then one big requirement is to have a validated Paypal account.Also a real physical address - although this is only too often just taken as granted once you had a delivery to your nominated address.Either way you Paypal account's address and name must match what you used for Ebay.Means if things go really south both Ebay and Payl will have enough details to surrender you to the local law.In China however things are different, starting with space.An export business is highly subsidised as it brings in foreign currency.So you can just hire a dummy letter box in some office building for company purposes.All mail however will be directed to whatever real address you specified for your "company".Same for actual company grounds.A n awful lot of producing factories/companies over there get additional support by the government for supporting small export businesses.That means you, as a little Chinese Ebay power seller forward your orders to whatever factory produces or stores these thing in huge amounts.This company then does all the shipping for you.Becomes really clear once you try to figure out from where you Ebay shippment really came.There won't be any Ebay seller name on the address, same for whatever you found in the Paypal invoice.The guy can just sit in his lounge room and never actually touches any shippment at all.In mayn cases those sellers have good discounts and since small items ship for free out of China, no one complains about the extra work.Both Ebay and Paypal are well aware of those loop holes in China!But as with multiple accounts they look away and prefer not to act as long as the money keeps flowing.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Feature request for the community section

Might be just me but I would appreciate to have the name or who made the last posting in a topic.Having the date is one thing but a name would allow to see if the thread starter replied or someone else.

Topic by Downunder35m 


GSM SIM800L Not Sending Value in SMS Alert When Triggered

Hi Team,please i need help in correcting why my code is not sending the current battery voltage value in the sms alert received. Attached is my code and picture of the sms alert received, once the threshold is reached, the gsm module sends an sms to my phone number but it does not contain the value of the current battery state/voltage; it only displays 0.0V in the sms rather.

Topic by jisaac6   |  last reply