Any one can give me a free raspberry pi ?

Can any one please give me a raspberry pi or any other fruit board ? I want to learn programing and I will happy if any one give me

Topic by Soumojit   |  last reply

ESP8266 WiFi Module

You need a separate grouping for this module under Technology This is a Microprocessor running at 80Mhz to 160 Mhz  with 512 kB to 4 Mb of program memory It costs $3 and is programmed with various languages compiled to machine hex and uploaded by a variety of programs to run entirely on its own with a 3.3Volt power supply . It connects to your modem , acts as a modem , serves web pages and sends to web pages and a whole lot of other stuff I have not used yet See here in the wiki for more detail

Topic by tytower   |  last reply

Looking for a K'NEX Reunion

I'm looking to find and contact all of the old K'NEXers so we can keep in touch. I still know how to reach a few people, but this post is my final attempt at locating the following people. Search status is in brackets by each name. [Pending] = I've contacted them. [Found] = established semi-permanent communications. No brackets = no trace.  -Hunter999 (one of my best friends on 'Ibles back when) [pending] -The Red Book of Westmarch [pending] -E Pluribus Unum  -Didexo [pending] -TheDunkis [found- hooray!] -Sorunome [pending] Bonus points!: -Oodalumps -KillerK [pending] -Shadowman -dsman -I Am Canadian -The Jamalam -KGB I remember you guys. You were the best. I hope I can talk to most of you again, and I hope you remember me. -NK

Topic by nerfrocketeer   |  last reply

ball - on - plate PID controller

Hello everyone I work on a project ball on a plate and have a problem making the ball move a circular motion Please Help Thanks 

Topic by aljaur   |  last reply

Simple question 230v to 12v 50w/5a timed output

Hi, know a lil about electronics and electrical just want to make sure i'm not being a dummy or if there are any other better alternatives. Problem: A timed output circuit has gone bang on an piece of work equipment, wont go into detail as it may confuse the situation but it all works apart form the timed lamp button, I can see components on the lamp circuit disintegrated etc... So I wish to make the lamp part sort of stand alone. plan is to convert a 230v suply down to 12v 5a as the lamp it needs to power is 50w. Resolution: I was going to get this and Build accordingly and place in a project box with a push button on the project box also. Can anyone see any issues with this? Or am I complicating it, maybe the transformer then this? or any alternatives? advice?

Topic by TerryJ31   |  last reply

spec a dc motor for a vehicle

I am making an electric vehicle. Assume no friction on a flat surface. The vehicle will have two dc electric motors preferably 24v or 48v system as space is an issue(about 3.5 x 4 feet) one motor on each drive axle. The vehicle will weigh 2000lbs have a max speed of 10miles per hour be able to reach max speed in under 5 seconds overall wheel diameter will be 16 inches Can be geared down to attain needed torque but must go up to 10miles per hour. Please include formulas so I can at least know how to do this in the future. I need to know power, torque, rpm needed for electric motor. Thank you

Topic by tshaf   |  last reply

Glass capsule RFID not readable but work

Just wondering if anyone has come across a glass capsule RFID which cannot be read by any reader but work inside the machine?  We have tried countless of readers but none of them can detect anything of the chip.  Is this possible?  Anyone has any idea which can help us or can provide the reading service?

Topic by BT73   |  last reply

Advanced Helmet

Advanced Helmet By: Arseny Ratnikov I want to create a helmet that looks like a sci fi helmet (mass effect, titanfall, halo, etc.) and that; **Want to make cool helmet, need help with having multiple camera feed output to multiple screens** * Protects my head (able to decrease force from impact by significant degree) * Can filter the air I breath (does not need to be super extreme filter, just filter out general junk, the better the filter the more pleased I am, but if it becomes too bulky/expensive then it is unnecessary)(Optional/Most Likely) * Has a HUD with my vitals on it. I would wear some sensors, such as HR monitor to have some cool biofeedback, maybe also include other information.(option) * Maybe even have it be a digital display where there are cameras on the front and maye back of the helmet that then are displayed on the interior screen, where I have voice commands setup for some different things. * Have the helmet be as sound proof as possible and have microphones where my ears would be, then inside the helmet speakers, so that I can modify the noise around me to be how I want it to be. I understand this would be rather difficult (at least including all of the bullets) and that it could even be a touch silly. Yet, I find this a rather intriguing pursuit and think it will help contribute to becoming a cyborg. Any tips would be greatly appreciated as I don't really know where to start for this. I can imagine a lot of the work might be done on an arduino, but I simply don't know the feasibility of modifying noises of the world around you and having the cameras on the helmet. So here's a little prioritization sheet I worked out, it is not exactly in order, and maybe you all have some suggestions on what might be more critical to design and functionality. Prioritization 1. Functionality a. Head protection a1. Padding/Inertia dampener a2. Sturdy/solid b. Control of phone through bluetooth b1. In helmet speakers b2. In helmet microphone b3. Voice control c. Control of other systems such as screens c1. Voice control of screens c2. Screen modification c3. Screen HUD and other functions (maybe GPS map, time, etc.) d. Camera view d1. Camera live to screen with little to no latency d1a. 360 degree view compressed to 180 degree screen (maybe) d2. Computer control of camera feed d2a. Visuals, different HUDs e. Sound modulation e1. Sound cancelling e2. Sound reproduction at low to no latency e3. Sound modification e3a. Changing pitch e3b. Change decibel levels e3c. Change relative level of external sounds f. The HUD f1. Display of vitals f1a. Heart rate, oxygenation, etc. (Requires some monitor) f2. Display of time and other running interests f3. Display of current location on google maps/GPS system g. Air Filtration g1. Filtration of air, relatively high quality g2. Seal on head or seal over mouth and nose or full body suit that connects to helmet h. Extra Features 2. Style a. Look good b. Look like popular sci-fi media c. Does not interfere with functionality and accents functionality How should I do this? I am planning on using some old phone screens if I can for the screen part and multiple cameras. I plan on using a raspberry computing system (might need multiple) to modulate the output from the cameras. How could I make multiple camera outputs lay onto multiple screens that looks good at three to five inches from the eyes? Also how can I make the raspberry pi control my phone and computer via voice, or at least change a screens properties? Thanks

Topic by ArsenyR   |  last reply

DIY Challenge Portable Filtered Ventilation System

Hello inventors and creative minds. I'm an airbrush enthusiast and I'm looking for an inexpensive way to build a portable ventilation system. I'm curious if anyone has built something that would work by using cheap home filters. Please send any ideas and suggestions

Topic by lancruz   |  last reply

How could I build a mask that can breath out fog?

I am wondering if there is a way to make a mask with some sort of built in 'fog machine' of sorts. A way that I can breath out a fog like vapor from the mouth of the mask that is safe to breath in. I intend on making the mouth of the mask able to open and close by attaching the bottom jaw to my jaw to allow it to open when my mouth opens and close when it closes. I already fairly certain that dry-ice is entirely out of the equation as breathing in the vapors produced can be harmful.

Topic by darklord_avalon   |  last reply

Post your steampunk art here

Well I'm making a zombie survival map for a Half-life1 mod Sven Co-op.  And I know there are a lot of steampunk artist out there.  So if you could post your steampunk stuff  art,guns,buildings,etc,  it would be nice.  If I use it I'll tell you and put your name in the map.  Thanks :D

Topic by zombiekiller42   |  last reply

Your email messages cause both of my email clients to crash

For more than a month your email messages have been crashing both of my email clients, causing them to freeze. Either you have set the security level way too high (your emails content does not need high security) or you need to incorporate style info into the default XML file. error messages are: An error occurred during a connection to Cannot communicate securely with peer: no common encryption algorithm(s). (Error code: ssl_error_no_cypher_overlap) returns the following: This XML file does not appear to have any style information associated with it If you can't fix this I will have to send your communications straight to the junk mailbox

Topic by jerri5   |  last reply

Please: How to remove the child-proofing from a candle (long nose) lighter?

Can someone please post instructions with pics on how to remove the child-proof annoyance on these lighters? Examples are the Handi Flame and Bic Multipurpose and Candle lighters. Thank you SO MUCH!

Topic by glamourd 

ESP8266 version 13 DIP switch

Hi, I bought a kit that uses an ESP8266 Arduino expansion board (shield) that has a version 13 ESP8266 module on it. That expansion board is not a standard ESP8266 board. It has an unusual 2-pole DIP switch on it that can be set to "ON" or "1-2". I need to understand what the 2-pole DP switch does and I need to understand the electrical connections it is connected to. There are many instructables about the standard ESP8266, but I cannot find any details about that DIP switch in a version 13 ESP8266 arduino expansion board. Can you please tell me where the DIP switch connects to and why it is needed. Thank you

Topic by agribot 

Giant paper popup.What Strong material to use other than Carboard?

What material could you use to make strong seats out of this?

Topic by DIAGONALLIS   |  last reply

Upgraded a 12vac to 24vac z-wave thermostat for A/C unit also adding transformer???

I decided to install a Z-wave Thermostat after an old ordinary one failed to work, It worked fine with home automation and all, apart from it being 24vac thermostat but receiving only 12vac from the motherboard (I was forced to change the batteries every 3 months), To make life easier (and not have to change batteries) I ended up doing  the stupid thing tying to Upgrade from 12vac to 24vac adding a transformer, it worked fine for the first 5 mins and then stopped, it was then that I realised I may have overloaded the mother board, My question is, is there a quick fix for this? or do I have to replace the whole motherboard?, if so which one?

Topic by BozS1   |  last reply

Handmade recliner workstation

I am concerned about the health of my son because he spends a lot of time playing computer games.I want to make for him a workstation with adjustable tilt of the chair and monitor as in Altwork Station or Human Touch Zero Gravity Chair, but without  complicated electric mechanisms. Unfortunately the price of such things in Ukraine is incredibly expensive, so I want to do it myself. Can someone help with ideas or plans ? Tnx Google translater was used 

Topic by Kirini 

Do you know a cheap instructable for solar cells? Tips/ideas

Do you know where I can find a cheap how to for solar cells? The ones I've found cost around $200 and more but I cant be spending money on materials for a how to that might not even work. For materials around the house I have aluminum cans, copper wire, hot get the idea. If you have tips where to go to find an how to that I can afford, or tips on how to make a solar cell out of aluminum, please let me know.

Topic by SarahC306   |  last reply

Arch:How can I make the inner shell so it resists stepping on and it's curved?

To do a low poly covering of this is easy, but what could I do to make it curved?


Arduino & Matlab

Hi, I'm working on a project  the ball - on - plate, and I have a problem in controlling the model of the MATLAB eg PID parameter . Please Help

Topic by aljaur 


I live in the Denver CO area Why have I not been able to see any new additions to Instructables ???

Topic by dmhoke   |  last reply

Need help to design mechanical mechanism

Hello everyone, I want to create feeder cart with seperate section, that will be hangin on rails.  Feeder cart will have four positions: First one (First load) will be bottom gates closed, middle gates open to the top. Second (Second load) will  be bottom gates closed, middle gates have to be locked in horizontal position. Third  position (First unload) bottom gates open, middle gates have stay locked. Fourth position (Second unload) bottom gates open and middle gates also open, that stuff drops out. I want ask you advice how to design bottom and middle gates open, closing and locking mechanical mechanism (without any electronical parts). This feeder cart will be operating by one man.  I have created middle gates mechanism, but maybe you have better solution.  I really appreciate for any ideas. Sorry for my english mistakes. English is not my native language. Link to my feeder cart design:

Topic by DonatasD4   |  last reply

Long Range UHF RFID Integrated Reader

Hi, I am Planning to develop Long Range UHF RFID Integrated Reader which can Read Multiple Tags at a time (range between 8- 15 Meters range) and send information to my web application to store data, so will you plese let me know the components which i need to use along with assembling process. Thankq

Topic by bikhanpersonal   |  last reply

Connecting the Arduino to the Matlab

Hello I am a student electronic engineering I'm working on a project (the ball - on - plate) and I am having trouble connecting Arduino with matlab please help

Topic by aljaur 

Home surveillance software

At the outset, foremost thank for your home surveillance software efforts, that you are making for the sake of the success of this wonderful site. I liked this site because it is wonderful and beautiful and has everything I want from materials and subjects interested in it very much thank those who support it and I hope the continuation of the site many years and I wish you luck and success as I like active comprehensiveness threads where intensity and beauty and Mafany holdings wonderful raises joy and astonishment, the fact that one of the best sites that Raúatha, in my life, every day, visit it and Atfkdh and get him on what I really want it wonderful, very cool, I thank all members and members those who support it and wish them to continue to work in it in order to continue the success of this site, and I hope them to interact with members of the posts everywhere from around the world. Thank you and I repeat my thanks to you, bye.

Topic by ppremjith 

STEP File Import

After reviewing my latest posting, I noticed that I was able to zoom and rotate the STEP files included with the graphics.  Dumb question - has the STEP file viewer always been included on Instructables or is this a relatively new feature?  Anyway, it's a nice feature for people that want a better understanding of the part. 

Topic by mtairymd 

How to replicate this Breathing Movement ??

Hi Everyone ! Does someone know how to make a breathing motion like this ??? Thank you for your help :-) Starky001

Topic by Starky001   |  last reply

Can I add a pot?

Hi. I have a metal detector and it can be quite loud when it finds a target. Unfortunately, there is no volume adjustment on it. I don't have a lot of experience wiring pots into circuits so I wanted to ask before I try something and damage my detector: Can I wire a pot inline with the speaker? And if so, would I ground it to the negative side of the battery pack or would I ground it elsewhere? Thanks in advance!

Topic by fosgate3   |  last reply

Instructables not updated

Last night, about 2300 PST, I posted an Instructable I've been drafting for a couple weeks now.  It has been over 15 hours, and the Instructable still fails to show up in my profile feed, and in the main page under recent Instructables, It also shows it as being a draft in the summary view of the menu. But inside the profile there is a link to it as an Instructable, it just does not show up on the feed. My other Instructables each showed up almost immediately after publishing. Is there some kind of problem with the system, or did I hit an update cycle just after it finished or something?

Topic by jumson   |  last reply

Problem with wireless bell

I am in confusion. Actually i have a wireless bell but of shorter range. So i thought to extend its range. I want to add one more pair of receiver and transmitter in the way. So when bell button is pushed, transmitter will send to receiver and receiver will complete circuit of transmitter and another signal to other receiver of bell. So it will double the distance. If it is possible kindly help me out. I am new in this field so explain me and tell which parts i need to buy. Thank you.

Topic by RollingS2   |  last reply

Pro Membership

I just noticed that my pro membership is not showing. I have always had my pro membership roll over when I have gift vouchers. I have plenty and it seems it did not roll over. There is also a message that someone placed on my page that my pro membership is not showing. Thanks in advance for your help and all your hard work!  sunshiine

Topic by sunshiine   |  last reply


Arduino: 1.8.4 (Windows 10), Πλακέτα:"Arduino/Genuino Uno" Hello everybody I use Arduino R3 Uno with DS3231 and 1.8 TFT spi 128X160 and this is my first project. #include     #include #include #include #include // Init the DS3231 using the hardware interface DS3231  rtc(SDA, SCL); #define TFT_CS     10 #define TFT_RST    9  #define TFT_DC     8 #define TFT_SCLK 13   #define TFT_MOSI 11   Adafruit_ST7735 tft = Adafruit_ST7735(TFT_CS,  TFT_DC, TFT_RST); void setup(void) {   // Setup Serial connection   Serial.begin(115200);     // Initialize the rtc object   rtc.begin();   // You will need to do this in every sketch   tft.initR(INITR_BLACKTAB); // Blank Screen   tft.fillScreen(ST7735_BLACK); // Set background BLACK     // Start writing colored text tft.setTextColor(ST7735_RED);   tft.setTextSize(1);   tft.setCursor(5,10);   delay(1000);  // pause for dramatic effect   tft.print("1.8 TFT with DS3231"); } void loop() {   // Blank Screen   tft.initR(INITR_BLACKTAB);     // Send Day of Week   tft.setTextColor(ST7735_WHITE);   tft.setTextSize(2);   tft.setCursor(10,30);   tft.print(rtc.getDOWStr());     // Send date    tft.setTextColor(ST7735_WHITE);   tft.setTextSize(1);   tft.setCursor(10,50);   tft.print(rtc.getDateStr()); // Send time   tft.setTextColor(ST7735_WHITE);   tft.setTextSize(1);   tft.setCursor(10,70);   tft.println(rtc.getTimeStr());   // Send current temperature   tft.setTextColor(ST7735_YELLOW);   tft.setTextSize(1);   tft.setCursor(30,90);   tft.print("Temperature: ");     tft.setTextColor(ST7735_BLUE);   tft.setTextSize(2);   tft.setCursor(35,120);     tft.print(rtc.getTemp());   tft.println(" C"); } Clicking for compilation illuminates the line 8 DS3231  rtc(SDA, SCL); Software: arduino-1.8.4 windows 10 Libraries: DS3231 1.0.2 Libraries are up-to-date and when I ask to add again library DS3231 adds #include Please help. Where is the error? D:\Τα Ξ­Ξ³Ξ³Ο?αφά ΞΌΞΏΟ…\Arduino\@-NEW_Projects_OCT_2017\1.8TFT_with_DS3231\1.8TFT_with_DS3231.ino:8:21: note: candidates are: In file included from D:\Τα Ξ­Ξ³Ξ³Ο?αφά ΞΌΞΏΟ…\Arduino\@-NEW_Projects_OCT_2017\1.8TFT_with_DS3231\1.8TFT_with_DS3231.ino:4:0: D:\Τα έγγραφά μου\Arduino\libraries\DS3231/DS3231.h:64:3: note: DS3231::DS3231()    DS3231();    ^ D:\Τα έγγραφά μου\Arduino\libraries\DS3231/DS3231.h:64:3: note:   candidate expects 0 arguments, 2 provided D:\Τα έγγραφά μου\Arduino\libraries\DS3231/DS3231.h:60:7: note: constexpr DS3231::DS3231(const DS3231&) class DS3231 {        ^ D:\Τα έγγραφά μου\Arduino\libraries\DS3231/DS3231.h:60:7: note:   candidate expects 1 argument, 2 provided D:\Τα έγγραφά μου\Arduino\libraries\DS3231/DS3231.h:60:7: note: constexpr DS3231::DS3231(DS3231&&) D:\Τα έγγραφά μου\Arduino\libraries\DS3231/DS3231.h:60:7: note:   candidate expects 1 argument, 2 provided D:\Τα Ξ­Ξ³Ξ³Ο?αφά ΞΌΞΏΟ…\Arduino\@-NEW_Projects_OCT_2017\1.8TFT_with_DS3231\1.8TFT_with_DS3231.ino: In function 'void setup()': 1.8TFT_with_DS3231:24: error: 'class DS3231' has no member named 'begin' D:\Τα Ξ­Ξ³Ξ³Ο?αφά ΞΌΞΏΟ…\Arduino\@-NEW_Projects_OCT_2017\1.8TFT_with_DS3231\1.8TFT_with_DS3231.ino: In function 'void loop()': 1.8TFT_with_DS3231:47: error: 'class DS3231' has no member named 'getDOWStr' 1.8TFT_with_DS3231:53: error: 'class DS3231' has no member named 'getDateStr' 1.8TFT_with_DS3231:59: error: 'class DS3231' has no member named 'getTimeStr' 1.8TFT_with_DS3231:71: error: 'class DS3231' has no member named 'getTemp' Χρησιμοποιώντας την βιβλιοθήκη Adafruit-GFX-Library-master στην έκδοση 1.2.2 στον φάκελο: D:\Τα έγγραφά μου\Arduino\libraries\Adafruit-GFX-Library-master Χρησιμοποιώντας την βιβλιοθήκη Adafruit_ST3775 στον φάκελο: D:\Τα έγγραφά μου\Arduino\libraries\Adafruit_ST3775 (legacy) Χρησιμοποιώντας την βιβλιοθήκη SPI στην έκδοση 1.0 στον φάκελο: C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\libraries\SPI Χρησιμοποιώντας την βιβλιοθήκη DS3231 στην έκδοση 1.0.2 στον φάκελο: D:\Τα έγγραφά μου\Arduino\libraries\DS3231 Χρησιμοποιώντας την βιβλιοθήκη Wire στην έκδοση 1.0 στον φάκελο: C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\libraries\Wire exit status 1 no matching function for call to 'DS3231::DS3231(const uint8_t&, const uint8_t&)'

Topic by BillyK11 

Children's Electric Car

I started to build a pedal car for my granddaughter and fell victim to "Project Creep". What started off as a simple, standard style pedal car modeled on a Type 59 Bugatti grew to a 6' long soapbox style car that will need an electric motor to move it.  I am a DIY guy and i have the plans, materials lists (it will be wood) and motivation.  What I don't have is a parts list for the electrical components nor do i have any idea how big the motor should be, e.g. 500W, 750W,750 gigawatts.  I wish there was just a kit that had all the components from accelerator pedals, gears, motor and a way to connect the whole thing to the 16" bicycle tires.  I don't need it to go 20MPH (she'll be 4 by the time I'm finished) but i don't want flimsy - i tend to overbuild things: why use two bolts when three will do? So, the question is what do i need and where do i get it - the first part is the most important.  I promise i will document the whole project with pics and words from concept to test drive - but i need help.   

Topic by RBaderG   |  last reply

artificial intelligence

Hi, what methodology can i use for designing and implementing an intelligent personal assistant 

Topic by jeral   |  last reply

UPS battery backup as car inverter?

I hope this isn't a dumb question, but if I were to take an old UPS unit, remove the battery, wire a 12V lighter socket plug to the battery cables in the UPS, and plug it in to the car, would it convert the 12V DC to 120V AC while the car is running? And if it worked would it draw too much power or damage anything? I wouldn't use this to run anything with a motor, just a laptop charger and maybe a light. Thanks! :)

Topic by 500FPS   |  last reply

What is List and Queue in Embedded Programming

Hello What is List and Queue in RTOS Programming. what is use of List and Queue routine in RTOS. Generally list means number of tasks. and queue means number of task run in queue   

Topic by vead   |  last reply

I need HELP figuring out what this part is called.

I bought a Halloween tree from home depot, they said I can't return it. The arms are supposed to move, they don't and I can see whats wrong with it and it is an easy fix. However, I have no clue what the part is called. Heres the tree: The arms are connected to a screw and a plastic piece and that same plastic piece has a hole on the other end that connects to a shaft or cam and wheel on the motor then it moves. I need that plastic piece, I hope someone somewhere knows what its called and hopefully where it is. 

Topic by RebO1   |  last reply

Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply

Speakers in wall

Anyone tried to put, in wall speakers, in wooden boxes? I know in wall speakers are build for wall but how they are going to sound in regular wooden boxes. I got, very cheap, high end in wall speakers. Why not build boxes and save $1000 ?   Any experience ?

Topic by mavava 

unfinished,5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM

5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM Required Material of project:- 1. Basic Servo Tower pro 9g*4 2. Header pins Male female*2 3. Arduino Nano*1 4.10kΩ Resistor resistance*2 5. Trimmer Potentiometer track Linear; maximum resistance 10kΩ*4 6. Tactile push button*2 7. Blank circuit board*1 8. Acrylic strips for Robot & potentiometer body*2 9. Wires, Button, Switch 10.Balsa wood, Metal, Plastic Procedure:- Arrange all necessary items.. Please go through the attached images  for better understanding.. I divide whole project in two parts 1) Servo Motor assembly 2) Potentiometer assembly 1) Servo motor assembly: – Servo motor as J1, J2, J3, J4 fix the servo motors as shown in image use 3M tape to glue servo, use thin flexible plastic strip to make griper, make hole in center of each finger tie thread in that hole pass this thread from center hole and tie knot at the other end of thread with 4th servo motor’s knob, as you stretch thread finger get close vise versa. Fix whole arrangement on strong rigid base. 2) Potentiometer assembly: – Fix potentiometer as shown in figure name potentiometer as do previous R3, R4, R5, R6 this time place R6 separately for easy access this potentiometer control gripper to pick and place. Potentiometer arrangement symmetry must be same as servo arm. Fix whole arrangement on strong rigid base. Moving a little bolt from one side to the other side:- 1. Actuators / output devices: 4 micro servos 2. Control method: controlled by a PIC16F690       assembler firmware 3. CPU: PIC16f690 micro controller 4. Operating system: self made assembler code 5. Power source: 4.8V to 6V from 4 battery cells 6. Programming language: PIC Assembler 7. Sensors / input devices: teach in system with                         4 potentiometers       Making Processer:- The Potis are standard types and are screwed to the white plastic parts with their nuts. The axles are pressed into the transparent plastic part. The handle to move the teach-in-arm is a M3-Spacer and the socket is a plastic part with is normally used to fix balloons on a stick to hold it.                     move the motor itself by hand a little force is needed due to its permanent magnets, which create a small holding force. But inside the servo a lot of gears increase the force which you have to apply. If you move the servo by hand, you have to apply a much higher force. If you overcome the motors holding force, it starts to rotate an acts as a flywheel. So moving a servo by hand needs a high torque and its not easy to turn it to the position where you want it. ( Fan control modules for engine cooling of real cars have some extra parts to clamp the voltage which is generated, when you drive at higher speeds. In that case the fan works like a windmill and creates higher voltages than normal inside the power stage of the module.) And there were also a lot of other "problems" which had to be solved using my PIC Controllers. i.e. self made electronics for a RC-Excavator which works similar to the digital system used in slot cars. To replace a lot of wires between the rotating part of the excavator and the track unit, a small PIC 12F629 reads the pulses from up to 5 channels of a RC-Receiver and leads their information via a 2 wire connection to a second PIC12F629. At the second board the power is separated from the data. The PIC is reading the data, and generates the PWM output for the 5 Servo output connector. the 2 wire connection is made with a cheap 6,3mm mono microphone plug which is also used as the axle for the rotating part. The arm of the excavator is also powered by standard servos and so it was necessary to change the control behavior from proportional to integral so that the servos move like real hydraulic cylinders which are controlled by valves. I used the same 12F629 type for that job and added some features like adjustable limit positions and starting point programmable by one jumper, and automatic return to park position when missing the pulses for some seconds. The Software is simple:- Its working like a servotester for four axis. That means, every poti is connected to an analog in of the controller and all servos are connected to GPIOs. The controller reads each poti, does some scaling, so that the angle of the poti equals to the angle of the axis and finally he creates the PWM output 1-2ms pulse every 20ms for all servos. Teach mode:- After a reset the robot arm follows the teach in arm while simple mapping the analog inputs every 25ms to the servo motors. Pressing the button stores each servo position in a array. Play mode: The sketch reads the array step by step and moves the robot arm. For cool looking movements I added a routine calculates different micro steps for each servo to have moving start and end sync on all axis. Also added a ramp for soft increase/decrease velocity. Shorter travel distances the robot does slow, longer distances with faster speed.           The program moves the servos at full speed to the next position and a short delay time after each command allows all of the servos to reach their final position. That means that it is possible to increase the speed a little bit more by doing some fine tuning of the delay times after each command. The final thing which is still not implemented is the routine which saves the "Teach In" data 5 or 10 times per second, so that the controller is able to replay it in a loop with the original speed or with a lower or higher speed. Electrical Connection:- Provide separate power supply (5V DC 1amps) to the Servo motors . Don’t forget to short ground of both power source ( arduino + servo) 5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM :- 1. Use of Fiber on upper side 2. wooden spoon is a part of side body 3. cable tie *12 pieces use the robotic. 4. Some pices of wires 5. use scraw*4 6. Glue 7. some small clips Because to attached body 8. small size of plastic box 9. One pieces of  square fiber stand and one pieces small & medium  circular fiber  10.  L293D Motor Driver IC+IC Base KG143 11. Generic Elementz High Quality Nickel Plated 24*18 Points Bread Board*(2 pieces) and one plastic 12. Push Button Switch. Play Mode version 1.1 The gripper input is used to set the delay (0,1,3,15,60,300 seconds) after a loop is done. The switch (it was left from the project start) pauses the robot.        Thanks you:

Topic by aarif1234 

Model Maker Needed ....

My company is looking for a creative model maker for our model shop department. My company is based in Winston-Salem, NC and specialize in Point of Purchase displays for a variety of different companies. We have in-house engineering, project management, design, and model making departments.  We work with our clients on design renderings and build the physical model to review and approve. The model/prototype can incorporate the following materials: metal, plastic fabrication, electronics, plastic thermoforming, and 3D printing.   If you are interested in making 3D physical models for a Point of Purchase display company, please contact me. I would be happy to go over any questions you have. Joaquin Reyes company website: Thanks!

Topic by IWDMGJR   |  last reply

HHO bike

Today i try to run a motorbike by hho gas wow its amazing

Topic by rasel88 

wrist timer

Can anyone build me a wrist countdown timer? PM for details

Topic by gio_13   |  last reply

Block and Tackle Help - Adjusting Lift

Hello, I am working on a project that will lift up a flap, that is mounted to the bottom of a screen door, when the door opens. I am using a block and tackle to do the lifting when the door swing open. Everything works as expected but I would like the flap to travel more, move up/down more but I am not sure how to accomplish that. I the attached image, the red X's indicates a non-moveable part. The 2 black circles are pulleys. The yellow line is the rope. The green up/down arrow is the part that I would like to raise up higher. Is there a way to do that without getting too complicated? Thanks!

Topic by sdtacoma   |  last reply

movie download doesnt work

I am trying to download the movie from but when i download it i get a "no such key" error from 

Topic by thisisvlad   |  last reply

I'll pay you to build my idea

I want to build a wrist countdown timer. It will look like a fitbit or any other health tracker wrist band. however it will have only a countdown timer and that's it. nothing else. It has to be chargeable. 

Topic by gio_13 

Agility and reaction timer for sport

Looking for someone who can make a agility/reaction timer or make the plans for it so it can get to work. Found on YT ( (after minute 10') Great for sports like badminton. One controler that choose the direction left/right and times the reaction-time. Timing is optional for me.... Found it also in Japan on internet But making one with flashing light with adjustable timing. Random left/right. Anyone?

Topic by broow   |  last reply

Electrolux care plus esf 6549, indecators blinking and operation hanging

Electrolux care plus esf 6549, indecators blinking and operation hanging. Please see he video. It will keep this over and over. Anybody can help with this?

Topic by Mickyyy 

Images Appearing in the Wrong Order

Hi there, I noticed that my Instructable is not displaying images in the correct order: It all goes wrong in Step 7 where the images for that particular step fail to load. The order of the remaining images is wrong as a result of this. If you take a look at the screenshot attached you can see what images should be appearing for steps 7, 8 & 9. What actually appears is very different. I have tested it in several browsers it happens in all of them so it doesn't appear to be browser specific. I have tried removing the images, saving the Instructable then putting the images back in and it still displays in the wrong order. Is anyone else seeing this elsewhere on Instructables? Thanks!

Topic by LukeK1990   |  last reply

HELP! Can't get a render working for the "Design For Robotics" contest!

Hi, I'm a young creator in secondary school and have recently uploaded an entry (Strider: Bio-inspired Home Security and Automation) to "Design for robotics". However, I have been unable to display a 3D model of the robot. I was previously able to render a file (either an FBX, STL, GLB or 3MF- it was a while ago, so I have since forgotten). I was sent an Email in response to my entry saying that they would be making changes to the renderer so it could show sketchup models. However, I since tried to upload both a SKP and DAE file and both failed to be displayed. To qualify for the finalists, you need to upload a render or you won't be viable for selection. I have put a huge amount of effort into my model, and it would be a shame to have it disqualified on a technical. Please give any advice if you can or help me directly fix the problem, I will be hugely thankful.

Topic by sifu-dianji   |  last reply